If I drill between the 2 holes in the upper covers with a drill to enlarge, will there be more water passing through per minute? Technically, what can happen to the pump’s performance? Minute 4:28
Hello @pedromastosmatos1767 We do not recommend modifying your pressure pump like this. The pump has a maximum displacement based on the speed and stroke of the pistons. Increasing the size of those holes will not improve the performance. If you are looking to achieve a higher GPM we would suggest getting a pump that is rated for the GPM you are looking for.
@@APWRepairCenter Yes, but if I open the holes and remove the pressure from inside the pump, I distribute it through the line to the nozzle. Is this right? The diameter and speed of the piston are what controls the flow rate per minute. I ask. Would it be advantageous to add a Check Valve before or after the pressure regulator with baypass? Note: I have an RSV 4G40 pump with pressure regulator and external baypass. Venturini valve with external baypass as well. Original Venturini hole opened to the maximum with the drill. 1/2 hose 1.5 meters (4,921 ft) to the pressure regulating valve. Thank you for your time. Is check valve a good option?
Hello @pedromatosmatos1767, It sounds like you have added an external Unloader and bypass valve? I don't have any experience in modifying RSV pumps in this manor.
Lol. One criticism if I may..... you added the locktite to the valve right over the top of the slot it goes into... what if that dripped right down the center into the manifold? Great video ///. I learned something
I have a 4000 PSI. After I notice the Lost of pressure The gauge that I put on my pressure washer is only reading 2000 maybe 1000 psi. And when I pull on the trigger it goes too damn near 0. What would be that problem?
Short answer―there's a problem with either a check valve in the pump, the unloader, or the pressure switch. Longer answer―basically the pressure washer makes pressure by forcing water through some one-way check valves in the pump and will continue doing that as long as the trigger is squeezed and the motor is running. When you let off the trigger and the pump reaches peak pressure it needs to stop, and that's when the unloader engages and triggers the pressure switch to kill the motor. When the trigger is squeezed again, pump pressure drops which disengages the unloader from the pressure switch so the motor kicks back on. So if it keeps running then either the pressure switch failed, the unloader is stuck or has failed, or the pump isn't making pressure bc a check valve isn't fully closing, a seal has failed, or there's a leak somewhere where pressure is escaping. No idea if that makes any sense but I kinda hope it does
whats the difference between a pressure pump that has a high PSI rate but low water flow rate and visa versa? I dont understand.. There are pumps with a high PSI pressure rate yet the water flow rate is only 12L per minute and there are pumps that are low PSI but high water ie 18L per minute..... how do you know which is stronger? You would think that the higher the PSI pressure rate the greater the water flow rate but its not the case! I just dont get it.
I've followed this to the "T" and I've got "0" psi on the pressure gauge when pulling trigger on gun. Engine runs great, pistons move, all AR parts used to reseal the RSV Head with new check valves as well. Thoughts? I've also inspected the unloader valve to ensure there's no debris. I'm at a loss. HELP!
Maybe a new pressure gauge? You should at least have 30-60psi with house water pressure flowing through the pump (that's assuming the water was on and you purged the pump of any air). But if by "0" psi you meant "low pressure" then it's either going to be one of your check valves remaining open (stuck or from debris), or the unloader piston at the bottom of the unloader valve is stuck in bypass and needs to be freed up. Sorry if this was 3yrs too late.
@@mac4boys541 That's assuming it's belt-driven. If it's direct-drive and not a CAT pump or one that specifically calls for ISO-68 hydraulic oil, it's most likely going to be SAE 30 Non-Detergent oil, but it's your call in the end.
how much do all thease parts cost to rebuild the pump when needed ihave mine on a john deer power washer the soap injector wouldnt work been sitting for a couple months in the cellar i took the injector off cleaned it but it still wouldnt work didnt have much time for it after that i had it back in the cellar and took it a part some more and cleaned it and sprayed some wd40 guess ill have to try it again next time i want to rince the salt off the my truck
If I drill between the 2 holes in the upper covers with a drill to enlarge, will there be more water passing through per minute? Technically, what can happen to the pump’s performance? Minute 4:28
Hello @pedromastosmatos1767 We do not recommend modifying your pressure pump like this. The pump has a maximum displacement based on the speed and stroke of the pistons. Increasing the size of those holes will not improve the performance. If you are looking to achieve a higher GPM we would suggest getting a pump that is rated for the GPM you are looking for.
@@APWRepairCenter Yes, but if I open the holes and remove the pressure from inside the pump, I distribute it through the line to the nozzle. Is this right? The diameter and speed of the piston are what controls the flow rate per minute. I ask. Would it be advantageous to add a Check Valve before or after the pressure regulator with baypass? Note: I have an RSV 4G40 pump with pressure regulator and external baypass. Venturini valve with external baypass as well. Original Venturini hole opened to the maximum with the drill. 1/2 hose 1.5 meters (4,921 ft) to the pressure regulating valve. Thank you for your time. Is check valve a good option?
Hello @pedromatosmatos1767, It sounds like you have added an external Unloader and bypass valve? I don't have any experience in modifying RSV pumps in this manor.
@@APWRepairCenter Yes I have. Okay, I was seeing if theoretically the check valve made sense in the pressure line. Anyway, thanks for the answers.
Lol. One criticism if I may..... you added the locktite to the valve right over the top of the slot it goes into... what if that dripped right down the center into the manifold? Great video ///. I learned something
The bigger problem is he used red locktite, should use blue.
And also he's using a grease made for bearing on all the rubber seal, not the silicone grease.. not a good tips to follow..
I have a 4000 PSI. After I notice the Lost of pressure The gauge that I put on my pressure washer is only reading 2000 maybe 1000 psi. And when I pull on the trigger it goes too damn near 0. What would be that problem?
It could be the EZ start plug spring maybe be broken (the nut just behind the unloader near the thermal release valve)
My pressure washer does not stop when I release the trigger. It is an electric mi-t-m. Could you give me an idea of what it could be? thank you
Short answer―there's a problem with either a check valve in the pump, the unloader, or the pressure switch.
Longer answer―basically the pressure washer makes pressure by forcing water through some one-way check valves in the pump and will continue doing that as long as the trigger is squeezed and the motor is running. When you let off the trigger and the pump reaches peak pressure it needs to stop, and that's when the unloader engages and triggers the pressure switch to kill the motor.
When the trigger is squeezed again, pump pressure drops which disengages the unloader from the pressure switch so the motor kicks back on. So if it keeps running then either the pressure switch failed, the unloader is stuck or has failed, or the pump isn't making pressure bc a check valve isn't fully closing, a seal has failed, or there's a leak somewhere where pressure is escaping. No idea if that makes any sense but I kinda hope it does
Yeah, those check valves don't just come out that easy on a used pump.....
Whats the proplem when the motor trys 2 stall under load Luke therez to much pressure
whats the difference between a pressure pump that has a high PSI rate but low water flow rate and visa versa? I dont understand.. There are pumps with a high PSI pressure rate yet the water flow rate is only 12L per minute and there are pumps that are low PSI but high water ie 18L per minute..... how do you know which is stronger? You would think that the higher the PSI pressure rate the greater the water flow rate but its not the case! I just dont get it.
I've followed this to the "T" and I've got "0" psi on the pressure gauge when pulling trigger on gun. Engine runs great, pistons move, all AR parts used to reseal the RSV Head with new check valves as well. Thoughts? I've also inspected the unloader valve to ensure there's no debris. I'm at a loss. HELP!
Maybe a new pressure gauge? You should at least have 30-60psi with house water pressure flowing through the pump (that's assuming the water was on and you purged the pump of any air). But if by "0" psi you meant "low pressure" then it's either going to be one of your check valves remaining open (stuck or from debris), or the unloader piston at the bottom of the unloader valve is stuck in bypass and needs to be freed up. Sorry if this was 3yrs too late.
“Red” Locktite????? Are you crazy??
You should have used blue.
Excellent. I was looking for the oil for the water pump and I think it is the 15w 40.
it is right?
SAE 30 non-detergent oil.
At 2.15 in video it says on info plate 15w40. Some pumps do use a non detergent 30w oil, it doesn't foam up , but this one says 15w40
@@mac4boys541 That's assuming it's belt-driven. If it's direct-drive and not a CAT pump or one that specifically calls for ISO-68 hydraulic oil, it's most likely going to be SAE 30 Non-Detergent oil, but it's your call in the end.
where can i buy reversible pliers ?
It's good
You cannot find these reversible pliers anywhere.
how much do all thease parts cost to rebuild the pump when needed ihave mine on a john deer power washer the soap injector wouldnt work been sitting for a couple months in the cellar i took the injector off cleaned it but it still wouldnt work didnt have much time for it after that i had it back in the cellar and took it a part some more and cleaned it and sprayed some wd40 guess ill have to try it again next time i want to rince the salt off the my truck
What is under the ez start I open mine and the tap was on I think I lost some parts
Nothing but the passageway back to the inlet side of the pump. The ez start is all that's in there.
Could you please give us a link where to buy that reverse pliers i’ve looked diligently and have not been able to find those. Thank you
www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/product/4.901-062.0
Here a link to our reverse pliers.
Please help!! If i wanted to run this to a bypass tank would i take off the bolt on the left of the unloader at 2:50 in your video?
or should i run a 3 way the put the outlet valve on etc
I have otroy prsmachine 2550psi were to get parts or the kits ass
Super
thank you so much for this video
Where is tha global car wash services
1900w