I don’t own an M&P, but I might some day. I have a lot of respect for anyone who works on their own guns. This is an excellent step by step video that ought to help many. I learned by watching SigGuy, who has done a close up, in focus, well lighted disassemble/reassemble of just about every Sig Sauer. Love the short reset you have here. Thanks and Best Regards
I own a couple of M&P Glocks, SIG and I can tell ya this, I'm no expert but youll love the M&P line of pistols. They just feel right in your hand. I also watch Sig Guy. he helped me with some questions I had on my P250
I tried this trigger and it did not change the mushines or travel much. But it did change the pull weight.. I sent it back it was far to light for 10mm and that was really the only thing it changed. Rather have a heavy mushy trigger then a super light one. Did not improve the reset feel either.
Ordered this from your company this afternoon for a new M&P 2.0 10mm. Didn't realize the sight has to come out. 😕 Oh well. Guess I needed a sight pusher anyway. Nice video. I'll be referring to it frequently I'm sure.
By now, you've no doubt realized that on the S&W M&P 10mm M2.0 4" and 4.6" pistols (really all M2.0 O.R. pistols), the striker safety plunger and spring are accessible from underneath the easily removable reflex red dot sight panel, not the rear sight. So no sight pusher is needed as you don't need to touch the rear sight.
yeah that's a big step having to take the rear sight out!, had my gunsmith put on some night sights. had I known I maybe would have waited and installed a trigger also?
For any and all S&W M&P M2.0 Optics Ready (O.R.) pistols, the rear sight does not need to be touched. Access to the striker safety plunger and spring is under the very quickly and easily removed plastic optics plate, held in place by two hex screws. If you don't have the O.R. version, then the rear sight does have to be moved over: If you have a good quality sight pusher, the simple task of replacing the striker block and spring takes a whole ten minutes, or less. If you do not have a sight pusher, use a padded vice and a brass punch wrapped in masking or painters tape (so you don't mar your slide and rear sight). Either way, it's a quick and simple job, for which a gunsmith really isn't needed, unless you don't possess any basic mechanical skills and/or the necessary tools.
@@sandymitchell8182 I still haven't installed the trigger because the blasted gun won't run full power ammo. Changed magazine springs, recoil spring. I have the trigger and an SCS optic sitting in a box. I'm about to recycle the blasted thing and get an XTen (I have an XFive I like) or a G20 Gen5 MOS. I really wanted the Smith. I also need it to work. Mine doesn't.
@Swampytheroot I've noted that with a lot of consumer products since COVID-19, not only have prices exploded, but quality control has shamelessly gone down the toilet. A lot of S&W M&P 10mm M2.0 4.6" pistol owners have happily reported enjoying flawless performance with this pistol. Others, like me, experienced a very few (or only one) malfunction, which was corrected simply by replacing the weak recoil and magazine springs. Still, others report continuing to have malfunctions despite having replaced said springs. Some say their pistols choke on all 200 Gr or heavier ammo, while others (myself included) have fired a lot of full power 10mm Auto ammo of 200 Gr and 220 Gr weight, including FN HCL, with flawless functionality. Some complain of spontaneous magazine ejections / drops, especially during one-handed shooting. I've never experienced this issue... many have not. Presuming all owners have properly cleaned and lubricated their pistols (basic gun ownership 101), and that their shooting technique is correct, then it would appear some of these guns are of top-notch quality right off the line, while others appear to have been built by trainees, and still others were put together haphazardly by monkeys... or else...? What I know without any doubt whatsoever, is during the 14+ months I've owned my M&P 10mm Auto pistol, I've run 1821 rounds through it, all 10mm Auto ammo, 620 rounds of which have been Underwood self-defense and / or hunting ammo, and I've experienced only one malfunction of any kind, a FTF. One malfunction in 1821 rounds, that's a reliability rate of 99.945%. Mine is a very reliable pistol, and it's also very easy to shoot well. Good things! 👍
I like the fact, it comes with a slave pin, to help with an easy install. This looks fairly easy, if you are skilled & competent enough as a home gun smith. Otherwise, it may be safer to have a Pro do the job!
Questions.... Can you just replace the trigger shoe and leave every thing alone... A bit of a novice Question.. Will this work on the mp 2.0 metal...it has a sear disconnect in it.
Hot take: the M&P series actually *NEEDS* the Apex trigger, out of the box. I own a 1st gen 4" 9mm, 9C, and a shield 9mm. ALL of them have Apex triggers; I absolutely detest the stock triggers.
No. You're changing the sear, the striker safety plunger, and the trigger shoe (which is all metal and far superior to the stock trigger shoe), only. You do not have to change any springs. I paid $135 for mine at Midwest Gun Works in Sept2022. Don't overpay. This upgrade was a very quick and simple 10-minute job. Good things! 👍
It went by quick at the end but I think I heard an audible reset with this Timney- is that correct? If so is that reset a function of the new installation or carried over from the stock trigger function? Meaning- will the Timney add that reset if it didn’t have a reset already?
Yes, you install it the same way in a 1.0 as you would in a 2.0. I also have a 1.0. Don't know if you've already gone and did your trigger, but if you haven't, it's the same principle. But I didn't have to take my whole striker out to install. I just had to mess with it some, and the striker plunger came out.
NEVER change your trigger on a carry gun. Idc who told you it works for them or what. This is only to be done on competition or range guns. In my old town a guy got life from an at first justifiable self defense case but he accidentally fired an extra shot and hit an killed an innocent man due to his trigger being too light. Not only from a juror perspective is this bad it can mechanically fail
Me thinks you don’t really understand what he got life in prison for. Here’s a hint, it wasn’t because he modified his gun to take a lighter trigger, it was because he killed an innocent bystander.
I don’t own an M&P, but I might some day. I have a lot of respect for anyone who works on their own guns. This is an excellent step by step video that ought to help many. I learned by watching SigGuy, who has done a close up, in focus, well lighted disassemble/reassemble of just about every Sig Sauer. Love the short reset you have here. Thanks and Best Regards
I own a couple of M&P Glocks, SIG and I can tell ya this, I'm no expert but youll love the M&P line of pistols. They just feel right in your hand. I also watch Sig Guy. he helped me with some questions I had on my P250
Thanks for the directions! With your help, I could switch the trigger well!
I tried this trigger and it did not change the mushines or travel much. But it did change the pull weight.. I sent it back it was far to light for 10mm and that was really the only thing it changed. Rather have a heavy mushy trigger then a super light one. Did not improve the reset feel either.
Ordered this from your company this afternoon for a new M&P 2.0 10mm. Didn't realize the sight has to come out. 😕 Oh well. Guess I needed a sight pusher anyway.
Nice video. I'll be referring to it frequently I'm sure.
By now, you've no doubt realized that on the S&W M&P 10mm M2.0 4" and 4.6" pistols (really all M2.0 O.R. pistols), the striker safety plunger and spring are accessible from underneath the easily removable reflex red dot sight panel, not the rear sight. So no sight pusher is needed as you don't need to touch the rear sight.
yeah that's a big step having to take the rear sight out!, had my gunsmith put on some night sights. had I known I maybe would have waited and installed a trigger also?
For any and all S&W M&P M2.0 Optics Ready (O.R.) pistols, the rear sight does not need to be touched. Access to the striker safety plunger and spring is under the very quickly and easily removed plastic optics plate, held in place by two hex screws.
If you don't have the O.R. version, then the rear sight does have to be moved over:
If you have a good quality sight pusher, the simple task of replacing the striker block and spring takes a whole ten minutes, or less.
If you do not have a sight pusher, use a padded vice and a brass punch wrapped in masking or painters tape (so you don't mar your slide and rear sight).
Either way, it's a quick and simple job, for which a gunsmith really isn't needed, unless you don't possess any basic mechanical skills and/or the necessary tools.
@@sandymitchell8182 I still haven't installed the trigger because the blasted gun won't run full power ammo. Changed magazine springs, recoil spring. I have the trigger and an SCS optic sitting in a box. I'm about to recycle the blasted thing and get an XTen (I have an XFive I like) or a G20 Gen5 MOS. I really wanted the Smith. I also need it to work. Mine doesn't.
@Swampytheroot
I've noted that with a lot of consumer products since COVID-19, not only have prices exploded, but quality control has shamelessly gone down the toilet.
A lot of S&W M&P 10mm M2.0 4.6" pistol owners have happily reported enjoying flawless performance with this pistol. Others, like me, experienced a very few (or only one) malfunction, which was corrected simply by replacing the weak recoil and magazine springs. Still, others report continuing to have malfunctions despite having replaced said springs.
Some say their pistols choke on all 200 Gr or heavier ammo, while others (myself included) have fired a lot of full power 10mm Auto ammo of 200 Gr and 220 Gr weight, including FN HCL, with flawless functionality.
Some complain of spontaneous magazine ejections / drops, especially during one-handed shooting. I've never experienced this issue... many have not.
Presuming all owners have properly cleaned and lubricated their pistols (basic gun ownership 101), and that their shooting technique is correct, then it would appear some of these guns are of top-notch quality right off the line, while others appear to have been built by trainees, and still others were put together haphazardly by monkeys... or else...?
What I know without any doubt whatsoever, is during the 14+ months I've owned my M&P 10mm Auto pistol, I've run 1821 rounds through it, all 10mm Auto ammo, 620 rounds of which have been Underwood self-defense and / or hunting ammo, and I've experienced only one malfunction of any kind, a FTF. One malfunction in 1821 rounds, that's a reliability rate of 99.945%. Mine is a very reliable pistol, and it's also very easy to shoot well.
Good things! 👍
I like the fact, it comes with a slave pin, to help with an easy install. This looks fairly easy, if you are skilled & competent enough as a home gun smith. Otherwise, it may be safer to have a Pro do the job!
NOTE: on the 2.0 you do not have to remove the sight. The plunger spring is under the Optics plate
You do if you don't have an OR pistol. I know because I have "some" that AREN'T OR. It's not hard to do. Just be ready to capture the spring!
@@democratsuck Correct.
Great video, thanks for sharing
Completely unloaded
Thanks for doing it completely
are you slow?
Yeah I appreciate the effort here but the timney install video is much easier to follow. Thanks for your efforts nonetheless
Great video. Thank you. What punch size did you use for the trigger pin on the bar?
Questions....
Can you just replace the trigger shoe and leave every thing alone...
A bit of a novice Question..
Will this work on the mp 2.0 metal...it has a sear disconnect in it.
Would have been nice to see you test the pull weight at the end of he video.
Hot take: the M&P series actually *NEEDS* the Apex trigger, out of the box.
I own a 1st gen 4" 9mm, 9C, and a shield 9mm. ALL of them have Apex triggers; I absolutely detest the stock triggers.
Do you have to replace the plunger? Or will the factory one work. I have a very tight fitting dove tail optic plate.
The factory plunger is 80% of the trigger issues with these firearms.
So, what does the Timney trigger offer, over the OEM trigger? Whats the pull weigjt, and how good does it shoot now?
So basically all I'm changing is a sear and spring, and getting a fancier trigger shoe for around $180
No.
You're changing the sear, the striker safety plunger, and the trigger shoe (which is all metal and far superior to the stock trigger shoe), only. You do not have to change any springs.
I paid $135 for mine at Midwest Gun Works in Sept2022. Don't overpay.
This upgrade was a very quick and simple 10-minute job.
Good things! 👍
OK thanks for the information, it's gonna be the the Timney or Apex @@jpg_sig10
First time I've ever seen one of these disassembled looks like the inventer liked glocks?
the provided lock pin make this install with breeze
I always have a few parts left over. Its okay! 😅
How do I know if this will or will not fit my former law enforcement M&P 40 (blue box)?
Bro installed the trigger spring upside down.. uh oh
It went by quick at the end but I think I heard an audible reset with this Timney- is that correct? If so is that reset a function of the new installation or carried over from the stock trigger function? Meaning- will the Timney add that reset if it didn’t have a reset already?
Are the safety features on this compromised after installation if this kit?
I have the older M&P (gen 1 sorta). Is this the same install for that pistol? Thanks
Yes, you install it the same way in a 1.0 as you would in a 2.0. I also have a 1.0. Don't know if you've already gone and did your trigger, but if you haven't, it's the same principle. But I didn't have to take my whole striker out to install. I just had to mess with it some, and the striker plunger came out.
has timney or anyone said if they'd do an FPC trigger?
Do you have to replace the plunger or can you use the old one?
Are these good for carrying?
I install it, but it feels very gritty, I don't think it's worth that much money.
does it work on the mp 2.0 metals
Will these trig work on the sd 9 ve
No they will not.
Does this work for M&P 40C
That’s what I’m trying to figure out
Relable this as the m&p 2.0
I would kindly suggest watching some installation videos; perhaps that would help you learn how they are done.
Have one ..still like my Apex set up better
What do you like more from APEX? I have 2 M&Ps with APEX... wanted to drop this timney in the third
And if you don't know how to look then take pictures
NEVER change your trigger on a carry gun. Idc who told you it works for them or what. This is only to be done on competition or range guns. In my old town a guy got life from an at first justifiable self defense case but he accidentally fired an extra shot and hit an killed an innocent man due to his trigger being too light. Not only from a juror perspective is this bad it can mechanically fail
I think that accidents happen no matter if you change the trigger, it is best to practice and use common sense, but that is your own decision.
Worry about your own carry gun, I'll worry about mine
training issue.
Me thinks you don’t really understand what he got life in prison for. Here’s a hint, it wasn’t because he modified his gun to take a lighter trigger, it was because he killed an innocent bystander.
@@fcsthememe7987 finger bang more women