Hey, thanks for taking the time to put this video together. Just a heads up for all the viewers that the shield line of M&P optics ready pistols still needs to have this rear sight pushed to the side to access the safety plunger. It's just a full size M&P line that has the cover plate over the plunger on the optics ready models
You were right about that .050 allen head driver. Tried to remove the screw with my shop allen wrench and thought I stripped the little screw head. Found out that it was my allen wrench that rounded off because of how tight the screw was.
Very detailed and easy to follow. Did my M&P 2.0 w/o any issues by following your steps. Luckily mine was optic ready and I did not need to remove the rear sight. Thanks,
Buy the Dynamite tool! I thought I had the right sized allen keys (and I DID) but they all broke. The tool I ordered was well worth the $10 or so as it worked perfectly the first try.
Fyi..apex includes a little yellow slave pin to line up the trigger, spring and slide stop/release. You do that , lay the assm in the frame, slide the locking block over that then simply push the trigger pin in while it pushes the yellow slave out. It is on the apex install video.
I have to admit this gun cleans up nice! I just got my 2.0 recently and I shot it at the range this past Sunday. I do plan on changing the trigger. The factory one feels weird with my grip. Gun is still really accurate though. I think a flat faced trigger would help out a lot! Thanks for the video. Easy to understand and follow. 👍
This helped me tremendously. Thank you. One question...has anyone else had light strikes at all? I've run two different ammo so far. 250 rounds blazer brass 9m 115 no stoppages...my cheap ammo I bought in bulk Maxxtech or something 115gr is averaging two light strikes a box. Unfortunately I bought a ton because it runs through my P226 but I'd like to train on the M&P platform. Would a heavier striker spring be what I want or a heavier trigger return/sear spring?
I have a M&P 2.0 9mm 4.25" OSP...trying to decide exactly which Apex "flatty" trigger kit to buy. Brownells shows two Apex models: 1) A polymer trigger kit $106 and 2) an aluminum trigger kit $170. Descriptions on both are somewhat confusing (if read at face value). Any help is appreciated. Greg (NC)
AFAIK the only difference between the two kits is the material of the trigger itself. The cheaper option is made of a strong polymer and has a matte look and a different texture feel. The aluminum will be anodized and have more of a sheen. They will both function the same and you won’t worry about breaking either of them. It really comes down to personal preference.
Going with the 4.5 lb chart flow, and you end up with a 3 lb pull. I've read the same on Reddit. Seems you have to go heavier than you want, to actually end up where you want to be....
I was thinking of picking up a kit for my 2.0, then saw the price of $180.00 😳😖. That's steep for a trigger and a few springs. The Polly trigger and springkit should be no more than sixty five dollars. If it's made out of some kind of metal maybe a twenty dollar upcharge.
As an aside, no more blue locktite, it’s the wrong product we’ve all been there. You want 222 the purple stuff. Go look it up, blue is intended for 1/4” fasteners and up. PS - C&H should have gasketed that plate if they’re gonna open a hole into the battery compartment of the RMR 😐
I’ve been having some light primer strikes after replacing the trigger, I see all over the Internet that there are complaints about this. I have complete faith at the install I did was fine, I even used all of the springs that came with the trigger assembly. I’m just curious if you know a fix for something like this. I’ve read things online about people replacing the striker assembly with a higher pound spring for a Glock, but I don’t know if I feel comfortable mix and matching parts for a different manufacture.
That makes absolutely no sense. This kit touches nothing that should affect the amount of force the striker imparts to the primer. When you get into kits that mess with the mass of the striker and the striker springs like the Glocks do it’s certainly a concern…
The yellow part is a slave pin for the trigger return spring. It’s meant to help you hold everything in place while you insert the trigger pivot pin. I never needed it though. I find my thin punch method to be quick and effective
Did you happen to find out what the torque value is for the safety plunger screw? Also, I don't think it's a good idea to add blue Loctite on a screw that small that can get easily stripped.
You made it so simple. I installed mines over the weekend. I do have a question for you. My trigger reset is not as audible as the factory trigger now. Is yours that way or not? I do feel the reset and the gun fires very well. It is just that issue with the reset.
Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sounds
I just find your video, really helpful, thank you. The only thing is that I use all the original factory springs, should I replace them for the Apex ones...?
I’m sorry, I am just seeing this. Are you referring to the sear retention pin, or the rear frame pin which goes through the sear block? Hopefully you got it figured out.
Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sounds
odd, that none of the instruction videos on youtube use the ambi-thumb safety version. Does this mean that the ambi-thumb-safety feature M&P 2.0's do not work for this installation?
Does Apex provide the "doo-dad" with their hard sear or is that an additional part you need to source? I don't see it offered in their trigger kit. Can the factory "doo-dad" be used with the Apex hard sear?
Brother, im so freaking hype right now. I did my apex trigger a few years ago and just decided to not do the plunger. I asked my local shop for help and they pretty much laughed lol But i just got a 10mm with a vortex. I was going to pay to have an apex installed but now i know i can actually get to the plunger
Dude you made that look so easy. I’ve been trying to insert that friggin trigger pin in for 5 days. Had to order dental picks and finally got it on the billionth try.
Thank you for your post! Great and clear instructions! I have changed my trigger to Apex and I love the trigger pull weight on it but from some reason the reset of the trigger did not change…I have also changed the block plunger and still no change,any advice on how to make the reset tactical and audible like yours?
You’re welcome! Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sounds
@@faithkillsfear Works for you. Excellent Video, much better then mine. I am definitely linking your video on my next install video. I have two 4 in frames and slides I am building up.
the apex plunger spring is wayyy lighter than factory. thats bad info. unless they sent u the wrong one. the apex spring literally have no tension compared to factory
I’ll have to measure the difference somehow. But considering the company who actually makes the aftermarket springs has a chart I would suggest referring to that. I think I linked the chart.
Hello there so I followed your video on how to install the apex trigger but I am having issues want to see if you know what I did wrong. In order for the trigger to break, it travels all the way back and I still have a force it just a hair more for it to click. Any reason what this is happening? Thanks
Hey *question* - I’d rather not remove my Optic for the install. Is it a must to replace the safety plunger? Or can I keep that stock? Installing an Apex Flatty as well.
It’s totally optional. The only thing the new polished safety plunger does is take away any gritty feeling in the take up of the trigger. And you can also change your triggers weight by replacing the spring underneath. Although the factory spring will produce a lighter pull than the apex one AFAIK.
@@thegreenbackgorilla9140 Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sound. And I would recommend installing the safety plunger if you are feeling the gritty
You can certainly skip the safety plunger part of the installation. Although when people say “the trigger take up feels a bit gritty”, it is usually caused by the stock safety plunger. It is more angular. If you are satisfied with how the take up feels, you can leave the factory sear safety plunger alone. The shortened take up and clean break will all still be there. Just might not feel as smooth. Also the factory safety plunger spring is lighter than the apex one. Which will give you (in combination with other springs) a lighter take up/break than if you used a apex spring under the plunger.
Gotcha. I was wondering how you got such a low trigger pole weight when the lowest I saw on Apex's website flow chart was like 4 1/4 pounds. Or is the flow chart not correct
@@stevestory8483 the more used your stock springs are the lighter your trigger pull will be. The springs on this pistol were already broken in. Although even with pistols, which has less rounds through them, I have seen sub four Pound pulls with the use of stocks springs in the Apex kit.
@@stevestory8483 the biggest difference will be felt with the apex trigger return spring. If you want a four pound pull, I would try that, paired with factory springs under the sear and sear safety plunger
I just put an apex in my M&P 2.0 Compact. I used the factory sear spring and factory Trigger return spring. It’s by far superior to the factory Trigger. But I’m not super happy about with the take up. Is there any way to decrease it? It’s still pretty spongy. Should I try changing out any of the springs? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you 🙏
Replacing the trigger return spring with one of the apex springs will add weight to the take up and will make the take up feel less spongy. It will also increase the trigger pull weight also.
@@faithkillsfearok! Thank you! I guess it comes with two different trigger return springs? I guess I’ll just need to experiment with which one feels the best. Thanks
That is a question best suited for Apex. Although I believe the trigger group is the same AFAIK. If you are confident working on them, then I say go for it! Just buy the Dynomite tool I referenced and you’ll thank me later.
So do I need to change that safety plunger thing? I don't have the optic ready mp and I don't have anything to move the rear sight so .. if I can't get that changed then the Apex trigger won't work ?
I have optics ready and I didn't change it because I didn't have the tool and it's ran fine over 700 or so rounds through it since. About to Tinker with the springs again right now and change the pull weight to something higher.
I sent my slide to Floyd’s Custom Shop and he gave it to whichever Cerakote guy he uses. And just an FYI the Elite Blackout is pretty shiny on the matte shiny scale (which is why I like it). It has a high lubricity which is nice.
Thanks for doing this video. This was a big help. The Apex trigger is awesome. The factory trigger on the M&P 2.0 is a joke. Honestly the worst out of the box trigger on any gun I have ever owned.
Bloody awesome video mate you utter Legend!!!!! Extremely thorough and well presented. You’d have to be a bit of a major dickhead to stuff it up after watching this. Thanks again bro. 🙏🤙🤙🇦🇺🍺🍺
Thanks for all the help. I noticed my sear plunger is different than your in the video and does not seem OEM. Not sure how this could be. i have the 5' performance center version of the 2.0 but i still do not think it is normal to having any plunger other than the silver ball type plunger. Just bought one, hopefully that fixes it. @@faithkillsfear
Hey, thanks for taking the time to put this video together. Just a heads up for all the viewers that the shield line of M&P optics ready pistols still needs to have this rear sight pushed to the side to access the safety plunger. It's just a full size M&P line that has the cover plate over the plunger on the optics ready models
Thanks for this, its so much better than the video Apex put out
Followed this step-by-step installing the polymer Apex on my 10mm. I was intimidated by the project at first, but your video made it easy!
Super great video and easy to follow! Installed a apex poly on my m&p 2.0 in about 25 min.
Thanks for the video!
You were right about that .050 allen head driver. Tried to remove the screw with my shop allen wrench and thought I stripped the little screw head. Found out that it was my allen wrench that rounded off because of how tight the screw was.
Yeah. I went through a few different allen wrenches first.
Very detailed and easy to follow. Did my M&P 2.0 w/o any issues by following your steps. Luckily mine was optic ready and I did not need to remove the rear sight. Thanks,
Buy the Dynamite tool! I thought I had the right sized allen keys (and I DID) but they all broke. The tool I ordered was well worth the $10 or so as it worked perfectly the first try.
Yep. The tool is worth every penny. I had the same experience with burning through allen wrenches.
This was a good video. The dynamite tool was an awesome tip. Thank you.
Fyi..apex includes a little yellow slave pin to line up the trigger, spring and slide stop/release. You do that , lay the assm in the frame, slide the locking block over that then simply push the trigger pin in while it pushes the yellow slave out. It is on the apex install video.
Excellent walkthrough, I was able to do mine as my first time gunsmith project.
I’m glad it helped!
I have to admit this gun cleans up nice! I just got my 2.0 recently and I shot it at the range this past Sunday. I do plan on changing the trigger. The factory one feels weird with my grip. Gun is still really accurate though. I think a flat faced trigger would help out a lot! Thanks for the video. Easy to understand and follow. 👍
Thank you for this, i used this on my M&P 2.0 9mm and worked great. I had a thumb safety to contend with different than yours but no problem overall.
You’re welcome! I’m glad it helped!
I'm in the same boat, was the installation any different than this video?
Simple and straightforward, thank you!
The best video I found for M&P 2.0 trigger job!
Thank you!
Great video. Helped me swap the stock springs for the APEX non-painted springs.
Thank you! I’m glad it helped!
This was a well made and well presented video on these processes. Nicely done, sir.
Thank you very much.
Thanks for such a detailed video. Your detail was instrumental in my success.
i totally appreciate the vid. i used it as i tore mine apart and installed the apex. went smoothly. thanks!
I’m glad it helped! I learned recently any “installation” instructions for pew’s are a YT no no. Oh well. I’ll keep it up until I get caught 😂
Thank you and the MGW tool is worth it for sure !
This helped me tremendously. Thank you. One question...has anyone else had light strikes at all? I've run two different ammo so far. 250 rounds blazer brass 9m 115 no stoppages...my cheap ammo I bought in bulk Maxxtech or something 115gr is averaging two light strikes a box. Unfortunately I bought a ton because it runs through my P226 but I'd like to train on the M&P platform. Would a heavier striker spring be what I want or a heavier trigger return/sear spring?
@@twiddlyjaspers you’re welcome! I would contact Apex
I have a M&P9 Pro Series CORE. My stock trigger is around 4lbs. I'm thinking of upgrading the trigger to a flat trigger.
I have a M&P 2.0 9mm 4.25" OSP...trying to decide exactly which Apex "flatty" trigger kit to buy.
Brownells shows two Apex models: 1) A polymer trigger kit $106 and 2) an aluminum trigger kit $170. Descriptions on both are somewhat confusing (if read at face value). Any help is appreciated.
Greg (NC)
AFAIK the only difference between the two kits is the material of the trigger itself. The cheaper option is made of a strong polymer and has a matte look and a different texture feel. The aluminum will be anodized and have more of a sheen. They will both function the same and you won’t worry about breaking either of them. It really comes down to personal preference.
Machined Allen head tools are very important.... no crappy cheap allens
Going with the 4.5 lb chart flow, and you end up with a 3 lb pull. I've read the same on Reddit. Seems you have to go heavier than you want, to actually end up where you want to be....
I was thinking of picking up a kit for my 2.0, then saw the price of $180.00 😳😖. That's steep for a trigger and a few springs. The Polly trigger and springkit should be no more than sixty five dollars. If it's made out of some kind of metal maybe a twenty dollar upcharge.
It’s cheaper in Brownells and even cheaper if you use the code “FKF10” at checkout.
Perfect timing! I am ordering one today. Have you have any problems with the Floyd’s magwell & mags?
Awesome! I have had zero issues with any of the Floyds stuff
Great video! I have used it twice so far.
Excellent video! Thank you
Why would you lubricate a spring? I feel like that’s just asking for a malfunction. Other than that thanks for the tutorial👍
i wish M&P 2.0 HAD an aftermarket slide
Same. That and the stock trigger are my only gripes about the gun.
Great video, helped out a lot! Thanks.
Ohh man I remember the older guns Shield and such you had to drift the rear sight out to change that plunger. So much nicer…
As an aside, no more blue locktite, it’s the wrong product we’ve all been there. You want 222 the purple stuff. Go look it up, blue is intended for 1/4” fasteners and up.
PS - C&H should have gasketed that plate if they’re gonna open a hole into the battery compartment of the RMR 😐
I’ve been having some light primer strikes after replacing the trigger, I see all over the Internet that there are complaints about this. I have complete faith at the install I did was fine, I even used all of the springs that came with the trigger assembly. I’m just curious if you know a fix for something like this. I’ve read things online about people replacing the striker assembly with a higher pound spring for a Glock, but I don’t know if I feel comfortable mix and matching parts for a different manufacture.
@@raystumpfy9431 reach out to apex. They have good customer support
That makes absolutely no sense. This kit touches nothing that should affect the amount of force the striker imparts to the primer. When you get into kits that mess with the mass of the striker and the striker springs like the Glocks do it’s certainly a concern…
instead of the vice and all that, a pair of channel locks works even better/faster
Great tip
Just installed mine using this video! What the heck is the yellow plastic thing for?
The yellow part is a slave pin for the trigger return spring. It’s meant to help you hold everything in place while you insert the trigger pivot pin. I never needed it though. I find my thin punch method to be quick and effective
@@faithkillsfear Thanks. I was pretty concerned I missed something after struggling to put it together 😂
for some reason my safety plunger is not as round as yours, its almost like the stock plunger
I would reach out to Apex. They are very responsive and helpful
Thank you very much for this VDO🙏🏽
Dodad is the sear actuator.
Thank you! Works great.
Why would you not use the yellow slave pin that came with the kit? Makes it so much easier. No need to fiddle with punches and the spring
Did you happen to find out what the torque value is for the safety plunger screw? Also, I don't think it's a good idea to add blue Loctite on a screw that small that can get easily stripped.
Yours was the best!!! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 Great Work, Brudda!
Thanks brother!!
You made it so simple. I installed mines over the weekend. I do have a question for you. My trigger reset is not as audible as the factory trigger now. Is yours that way or not? I do feel the reset and the gun fires very well. It is just that issue with the reset.
Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sounds
Okay thanks
Merci beaucoup ! Excellent video ! So precise !
Just ordered mine's thank you sir
Nice! You won’t be disappointed!
I just find your video, really helpful, thank you.
The only thing is that I use all the original factory springs, should I replace them for the Apex ones...?
You’re welcome! If you use all factory springs you will end up with the lightest of any combination. You will end up with a sub 4 pound trigger pull.
@@faithkillsfear thank you very much
I installed the trigger now I’m getting light strikes did you experience anything like this ?
No. I’ve never experienced any changes like that with any of my installs
Ian getting them as well. Apparently it’s a known issue.
Thank you sir.
Great video! I am having a terrible time getting the sear block to line up for the pin. Can’t hardly get a 3/32 punch through. Any suggestions?
I’m sorry, I am just seeing this. Are you referring to the sear retention pin, or the rear frame pin which goes through the sear block? Hopefully you got it figured out.
I thought the Apex would get rid of the soft reset but it did not. do you have this problem also?
Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sounds
odd, that none of the instruction videos on youtube use the ambi-thumb safety version. Does this mean that the ambi-thumb-safety feature M&P 2.0's do not work for this installation?
@@claywynn4507 it should work just fine with the thumb safety
Does Apex provide the "doo-dad" with their hard sear or is that an additional part you need to source? I don't see it offered in their trigger kit. Can the factory "doo-dad" be used with the Apex hard sear?
The apex kit comes with a new sear engagement arm/“doo-dad” which has a longer arm. The longer arm makes the trigger stroke much shorter.
Got a link to a kit for all the punches? And Allen key?
Allen tool is via Amazon. Punches can be found via Brownells.
Great video very detailed!
Brother, im so freaking hype right now. I did my apex trigger a few years ago and just decided to not do the plunger. I asked my local shop for help and they pretty much laughed lol
But i just got a 10mm with a vortex. I was going to pay to have an apex installed but now i know i can actually get to the plunger
Dude you made that look so easy. I’ve been trying to insert that friggin trigger pin in for 5 days. Had to order dental picks and finally got it on the billionth try.
Hahahaha. It can be a bit tricky. But I’ve done this install quite a few times. It does get easier with practice
@@faithkillsfear I’ll be sure to use your method when I reinstall the missing take down lever retention wire back into the locking block. Lol
@@Highway9mm hahah. Dude. Dm me on IG if you run into issues and I will try and help you.
Thank you for your post! Great and clear instructions! I have changed my trigger to Apex and I love the trigger pull weight on it but from some reason the reset of the trigger did not change…I have also changed the block plunger and still no change,any advice on how to make the reset tactical and audible like yours?
You’re welcome! Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sounds
I am surprised you did not use the plastic slave pin on the trigger assembly, much easier.
I have used the yellow slave pin in the past, but I prefer my method
@@faithkillsfear Works for you. Excellent Video, much better then mine. I am definitely linking your video on my next install video. I have two 4 in frames and slides I am building up.
the apex plunger spring is wayyy lighter than factory. thats bad info. unless they sent u the wrong one. the apex spring literally have no tension compared to factory
I’ll have to measure the difference somehow. But considering the company who actually makes the aftermarket springs has a chart I would suggest referring to that. I think I linked the chart.
Would have been better if the camera had zoomed in on each part while being removed/installed.
Hello there so I followed your video on how to install the apex trigger but I am having issues want to see if you know what I did wrong. In order for the trigger to break, it travels all the way back and I still have a force it just a hair more for it to click. Any reason what this is happening? Thanks
@@josearreola8926 I would contact apex. They have excellent customer support
Do you know if the installation is any different with the thumb safety? I am Looking to buy this trigger today but I don't want to run into problems
Apart from pulling the safety out of the way and sticking it back no.
Hey *question* - I’d rather not remove my Optic for the install. Is it a must to replace the safety plunger? Or can I keep that stock? Installing an Apex Flatty as well.
It’s totally optional. The only thing the new polished safety plunger does is take away any gritty feeling in the take up of the trigger. And you can also change your triggers weight by replacing the spring underneath. Although the factory spring will produce a lighter pull than the apex one AFAIK.
Just installed the trigger. Definitely a noticeably gritty take up without the plunger. Probably should replace that too.
Hard to judge the reset because of it
@@thegreenbackgorilla9140 Head over to my review of the apex trigger and look at the comment section. This issue was brought up and I explained the solution. The short answer is you can add a bit more of an arc to the trigger bar (flex/bend it a bit) and it will increase the reset feel and sound. And I would recommend installing the safety plunger if you are feeling the gritty
are you able to skip the saftey plunger process or does that have to be installed? My M2.0 is brand new.
You can certainly skip the safety plunger part of the installation. Although when people say “the trigger take up feels a bit gritty”, it is usually caused by the stock safety plunger. It is more angular. If you are satisfied with how the take up feels, you can leave the factory sear safety plunger alone. The shortened take up and clean break will all still be there. Just might not feel as smooth. Also the factory safety plunger spring is lighter than the apex one. Which will give you (in combination with other springs) a lighter take up/break than if you used a apex spring under the plunger.
@@faithkillsfear thank you! You have created an awesome video with simple and knowledgeable instructions. Love to see it.
Im having firing issues ?, with firing pin light( not firing) help?
I’ve never experienced that. I would hit up apex.
Why people use flashlights in their pistols? Just to get more weight?
@@zaddari4304 for better target acquisition in low light situations. The weight does help also
Great video was curious what springs did you put in to get the 3lb trigger pull
Thank you! All factory springs with the exception of using the apex spring underneath the sear plunger
Gotcha. I was wondering how you got such a low trigger pole weight when the lowest I saw on Apex's website flow chart was like 4 1/4 pounds. Or is the flow chart not correct
@@stevestory8483 the more used your stock springs are the lighter your trigger pull will be. The springs on this pistol were already broken in. Although even with pistols, which has less rounds through them, I have seen sub four Pound pulls with the use of stocks springs in the Apex kit.
@@faithkillsfear what springs would you go with if you wanted a 4.5 lb trigger pull? I don't want the pull to be too light
@@stevestory8483 the biggest difference will be felt with the apex trigger return spring. If you want a four pound pull, I would try that, paired with factory springs under the sear and sear safety plunger
Is this the same process for the new 2.0 competition metal version ?
I haven’t taken one of those apart yet, so I can’t say for certain. Although I would think the process would be very similar, if not identical.
Very Nice Weapon
Thank you!
I just put an apex in my M&P 2.0 Compact.
I used the factory sear spring and factory Trigger return spring. It’s by far superior to the factory Trigger. But I’m not super happy about with the take up. Is there any way to decrease it? It’s still pretty spongy. Should I try changing out any of the springs? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you 🙏
Replacing the trigger return spring with one of the apex springs will add weight to the take up and will make the take up feel less spongy. It will also increase the trigger pull weight also.
@@faithkillsfearok! Thank you! I guess it comes with two different trigger return springs? I guess I’ll just need to experiment with which one feels the best. Thanks
@@bangsnap2651 if my memory serves me correctly, the painted spring is the heaviest.
Should I do this same setup on my S&W m&p 10mm? I was getting it installed tomorrow just not sure if I should do it this way. Thanks.
That is a question best suited for Apex. Although I believe the trigger group is the same AFAIK. If you are confident working on them, then I say go for it! Just buy the Dynomite tool I referenced and you’ll thank me later.
So do I need to change that safety plunger thing? I don't have the optic ready mp and I don't have anything to move the rear sight so .. if I can't get that changed then the Apex trigger won't work ?
I have optics ready and I didn't change it because I didn't have the tool and it's ran fine over 700 or so rounds through it since. About to Tinker with the springs again right now and change the pull weight to something higher.
Any issues with lifjt peiner atrikes? Be ause i regret changing mine.
No. I have not experienced any light primer strikes.
I have, any fix with that
Does anyone know if this trigger adds to or reduces overall trigger reach?
Slightly increased, it’s a bit forward set as most feel the trigger is too far back on these guns.
Will the new trigger still go in if you have a thumb safety ?
Yes.
Who did the elite black Matte for your MR918
I sent my slide to Floyd’s Custom Shop and he gave it to whichever Cerakote guy he uses. And just an FYI the Elite Blackout is pretty shiny on the matte shiny scale (which is why I like it). It has a high lubricity which is nice.
@@faithkillsfear thanks for the quick reply
You said at beginning should be 4.5 lbs and you were at 3lbs lol how did it go so low just most stock springs?
Yeah. The stock springs will result in the lightest pull by far.
I grossly underestimated how light though. Hahaha
What size of the punches were used?
Good video
will this trigger work also for m&p 2.0 competitor?
It will work with all the polymer frame 2.0’s. I’m told Apex is making a few changes for the metal frame
Thanks for doing this video. This was a big help. The Apex trigger is awesome. The factory trigger on the M&P 2.0 is a joke. Honestly the worst out of the box trigger on any gun I have ever owned.
What the hell is the little yellow slave pin?
@@surfish01 it’s a slave pin for the trigger, pivot pin. I found my method of using a thin punch to be easier for me.
Is it safe if the stock plunger was kept?
Yes. It will still be completely safe. Just a bit more gritty on the take up.
What optic plate is that?
What ported barrel/slide is that
@@Dexter-nw2fe it was done by Floyds Custom Shop. “Fkf10” to not spend as much.
Bloody awesome video mate you utter Legend!!!!! Extremely thorough and well presented. You’d have to be a bit of a major dickhead to stuff it up after watching this. Thanks again bro. 🙏🤙🤙🇦🇺🍺🍺
Thank you for the kind words!
👍
3 lb trigger... that's a negligent discharge waiting to happen
Gotta keep your trigger finger off the bang switch
Not if you actually know how to
Handle a firearm.
My trigger does not reset after pulling it... What would be the cause of this? Followed the video to a "T"
A missing or stuck sear spring can cause this. Probably a few other factors too but that is the one which is most likely
Which one is the sear spring? The super tiny one with the little rod that goes under the two pieces? @@faithkillsfear
@@xGoobeyBearx it’s the tiny spring which sits right under the sear and allows it to spring back up after it is pushed down.
@@xGoobeyBearx see the 16:50 mark
Thanks for all the help. I noticed my sear plunger is different than your in the video and does not seem OEM. Not sure how this could be. i have the 5' performance center version of the 2.0 but i still do not think it is normal to having any plunger other than the silver ball type plunger. Just bought one, hopefully that fixes it. @@faithkillsfear
thank you !