Just wanted to say thanks. I don't know yet if this is going to help me or not , but it does give me a list of possibilities to check. very through and well explained , what was leaved to question was answered in comment's . this is a very useful video for anyone dealing with these issues. A+✌😎👍
Ok so went to the dealership a few months ago and paid 114.00 for them to tell me they don't know whats going on with my truck. So to recap I replaced the turn signal and I did have a break in one of the wires for the right side turn signal so I replaced that as the break was too close to the plug to try and repair and cleaned the ground blocks etc. still nothing. What the problem turned out to be was a aftermarket fuse that was put in place in the wiring harness was blown.
@@Paw95 It was an aftermarket inline fuse someone installed. But to answer the question , mine was located by the radiator (battery side) mounted on the front sheet metal
@@josephpayne9655 on the passenger side in the front where the airbox is a ground for the turn signal. If it gets corrodded ur turn signal or lights wont work right
thanks for the video,,mine you put left signal it would flash left,,when you put right it would flash the left isntead,,,the ground by the air box right side, was bad,,i cut the gound wires put a connector and ground it,,in a way it was the factory black thing that was bad internelly,,,,
I haven’t had any real major problems with my Colorado until my chassis control module went out at 96,000 miles and have been waiting for the part for it’s on back order!! Don’t know when this piece will get in so I’m a little piste off for this manufacturer should have this on hand!! It’s time to call GM and give them hell!!!
I fear I'm having the self same issues. I'm replacing the headlight switch now but am dubious about it solving all my issues. I do know the switch is bad because the dimmer wheel wreaks havoc when you touch it so we shall see. I've been having intermittent turn signal issues and cab light issues for awhile, but I did get my hvac resistor lined out. :)
I wound up chasing my tail a bit as there was an inline fuse (installed by a previous owner ) that was also causing the issues with my headlights and signals this obviously was not in the schematics
Yessiree! I'm pretty handy under a shadetree but electrical is my weakest link. If this liltruck wasn't SO clean and reliable it would've been gone several times in the past year or so due to electrical issues, and evap stuff. Instead I spent about $2k on heavy maintenance brakes, tires and repair last fall and drove it from Illinois to FL and back and it was flawless other than not liking the Fl traffic and 80 mph maneuvers on the interstate! Thanks for the update I'll keep it for now as it's paid for and still very reliable start and run wise. New trucks being $25k plus I can fix a lot of stuff! :) @@josephpayne9655
Mine has has a bad headlight switch, broke wires in the door hinge area and broke injector and coil control wires... On my third instrument cluster.. they randomly die and sometimes come back on worse and worse... Driver window wouldn't work after the battery went dead.. Turned out to be a bad door switch. Heater speed control switch burned up along with 3 or 4 heater resistors and plug harnesses... Chevys are awesome. Frame only had to be welded once so far...
@William Miller Rofl... it's become a war of attrition... I'm going to drag it to 500,000 miles. She's clocked 418k since 05. Damage report: bed and rockers are toasty, frame is still holding up(fluid film every year), driver seat has giant wormhole that swallows up anything important that accidentally gets dropped, driver lock solenoid inop, heater inop unless you beat the blower motor like it owes you money, the tailshaft bushing is gapped out letting the front yoke flop at low speed, all bushings have lost their rubber, a arms click and clunk, driver wheel bearing is shot, all ball joints are shot, column u joint has play (been replaced before), abs is inop, no engine lights! I had just changed both o2 sensors to fix last codes, rotors are paper thin (I put new pads on after letting it go metal on metal for a month, no garage and it's cold here), I jb welded the whole filler tube to head off future evap codes and I have to wiggle cam sensor wiring when it won't start... other than that..... she's cherry.
If memory serves correctly, you open the drivers side door and remove the side panel on the dash I think its held in with one Phillips head screw and then you remove the trim around the headlight switch area. I think there are a couple of screws holding that on as well. If you look for videos on RUclips it may be similar to chevy trailblazer switch removal.
Joseph when u added a double din radio to your Colorado did u have issues out of your cluster ? I’m asking because I’m fen to add a double din radio and I want to kno if if give problems with cluster
I would check the wiring on that left side . Take out the right turn signal plug and test to see if the left lights up if it does then you know where the problem is .
Not sure if you can help me but figured id ask maybe someone knows. My hazard lights came on by there self one day while i was driving in the rain and they wouldnt turn off. I checked fuses under hood and took hazard switch off and it still wont turn off. Any suggestions? Is there a fuse box inside the truck somewhere? I couldnt find one. Couldnt find hazard replay either
I would check your grounding as that can cause all kinds of crazy issues. I took mine off and cleaned the contacts and that seems to have alleviated some of the issues.
![[MV] DIVA - LOCO](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dqtvvu4YUKY/mqdefault.jpg)
Just wanted to say thanks. I don't know yet if this is going to help me or not , but it does give me a list of possibilities to check. very through and well explained , what was leaved to question was answered in comment's . this is a very useful video for anyone dealing with these issues. A+✌😎👍
Ok so went to the dealership a few months ago and paid 114.00 for them to tell me they don't know whats going on with my truck. So to recap I replaced the turn signal and I did have a break in one of the wires for the right side turn signal so I replaced that as the break was too close to the plug to try and repair and cleaned the ground blocks etc. still nothing. What the problem turned out to be was a aftermarket fuse that was put in place in the wiring harness was blown.
Joseph Payne where was that fuse in the harness. I got the same problem
@@Paw95 It was an aftermarket inline fuse someone installed. But to answer the question , mine was located by the radiator (battery side) mounted on the front sheet metal
Where is this fuse located at?
@@jackdaniels2657 it was an inline after market fuse previous owner had installed. it will not be on any schematics
@@josephpayne9655 on the passenger side in the front where the airbox is a ground for the turn signal. If it gets corrodded ur turn signal or lights wont work right
For me it was the passenger ground, it was laying next to me air filter lol
thanks for the video,,mine you put left signal it would flash left,,when you put right it would flash the left isntead,,,the ground by the air box right side, was bad,,i cut the gound wires put a connector and ground it,,in a way it was the factory black thing that was bad internelly,,,,
I haven’t had any real major problems with my Colorado until my chassis control module went out at 96,000 miles and have been waiting for the part for it’s on back order!! Don’t know when this piece will get in so I’m a little piste off for this manufacturer should have this on hand!! It’s time to call GM and give them hell!!!
I fear I'm having the self same issues. I'm replacing the headlight switch now but am dubious about it solving all my issues. I do know the switch is bad because the dimmer wheel wreaks havoc when you touch it so we shall see. I've been having intermittent turn signal issues and cab light issues for awhile, but I did get my hvac resistor lined out. :)
Sadly these things are plagued with electrical issues and from the grounding
I wound up chasing my tail a bit as there was an inline fuse (installed by a previous owner ) that was also causing the issues with my headlights and signals this obviously was not in the schematics
Yessiree! I'm pretty handy under a shadetree but electrical is my weakest link. If this liltruck wasn't SO clean and reliable it would've been gone several times in the past year or so due to electrical issues, and evap stuff. Instead I spent about $2k on heavy maintenance brakes, tires and repair last fall and drove it from Illinois to FL and back and it was flawless other than not liking the Fl traffic and 80 mph maneuvers on the interstate!
Thanks for the update I'll keep it for now as it's paid for and still very reliable start and run wise. New trucks being $25k plus I can fix a lot of stuff! :) @@josephpayne9655
Mine has has a bad headlight switch, broke wires in the door hinge area and broke injector and coil control wires... On my third instrument cluster.. they randomly die and sometimes come back on worse and worse... Driver window wouldn't work after the battery went dead.. Turned out to be a bad door switch. Heater speed control switch burned up along with 3 or 4 heater resistors and plug harnesses... Chevys are awesome. Frame only had to be welded once so far...
Sell it!
@William Miller Rofl... it's become a war of attrition... I'm going to drag it to 500,000 miles. She's clocked 418k since 05. Damage report: bed and rockers are toasty, frame is still holding up(fluid film every year), driver seat has giant wormhole that swallows up anything important that accidentally gets dropped, driver lock solenoid inop, heater inop unless you beat the blower motor like it owes you money, the tailshaft bushing is gapped out letting the front yoke flop at low speed, all bushings have lost their rubber, a arms click and clunk, driver wheel bearing is shot, all ball joints are shot, column u joint has play (been replaced before), abs is inop, no engine lights! I had just changed both o2 sensors to fix last codes, rotors are paper thin (I put new pads on after letting it go metal on metal for a month, no garage and it's cold here), I jb welded the whole filler tube to head off future evap codes and I have to wiggle cam sensor wiring when it won't start... other than that..... she's cherry.
@@OldSkoolF Weel then, Keep on driving😃
You said you replaced the light switch. How did you get that out??
If memory serves correctly, you open the drivers side door and remove the side panel on the dash I think its held in with one Phillips head screw and then you remove the trim around the headlight switch area. I think there are a couple of screws holding that on as well. If you look for videos on RUclips it may be similar to chevy trailblazer switch removal.
Disaster!
On mine, the turn signals work but the "clicker" doesn't make noise any more.
Check your body control module
Joseph when u added a double din radio to your Colorado did u have issues out of your cluster ? I’m asking because I’m fen to add a double din radio and I want to kno if if give problems with cluster
No I never had issues with it
I have the same thing but when I turn it to the left it doesn't do anything
I would check the wiring on that left side . Take out the right turn signal plug and test to see if the left lights up if it does then you know where the problem is .
Not sure if you can help me but figured id ask maybe someone knows. My hazard lights came on by there self one day while i was driving in the rain and they wouldnt turn off. I checked fuses under hood and took hazard switch off and it still wont turn off. Any suggestions? Is there a fuse box inside the truck somewhere? I couldnt find one. Couldnt find hazard replay either
I would check your grounding as that can cause all kinds of crazy issues. I took mine off and cleaned the contacts and that seems to have alleviated some of the issues.
Joseph do u have fog lights on your Colorado ?
Yes
Joseph Payne ok thanks
Check your grounds.