COBB MAZDASPEED3 Gen 2 Autotech HPFP Internals Install Video
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- Опубликовано: 27 фев 2014
- This video shows the steps required to install Autotech HPFP Internals on your Gen 2 MazdaSPEED3.
Installation Instructions can be found at: cobbt.ng/Instructions
Find Autotech HPFP Internals for your car at: cobbt.ng/slipcarefully 
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The e8 bolts should be torqued to 80-97 in lbs per service manual incase anyone was wondering.
What about the t25 ?
came to check the comments for this, thank you!
I commend you for the detailed video bro. Wish more people make such idiot proof walkthroughs. Keep up the excellent work
Agree, the other vids about this procedure on YT are way to vauge on certain steps.
Thank you guys, in the weeks to come ill be going over intake, turbo inlet pipe, exhaust, fmic and so forth so stay tuned.
slipcarefully Hey man this might be a super amateur question but do you remember how you got that black piece out. It’s the piece that’s on the interior side of the threads....
slipcarefully UPDATE! Nvm I got It. It was just super stuck in there.
Thanx again I installed my corksport internals yesterday working like a dream thanx for your helpful video
Awesome that this video is still relevant today and useful to me. Thanks for the upload.
Beautiful walk through! Need more edicate videos like yours out there!
Just have a quick question, so once you set the locking tabs, is there a way to be able to unclip the tabs to let's say replace the spring or is it permanent?
thanks for the video.. its very good instruction on how to. so on your video you said put the pump back and put it on 35 lb TQ I always heard it on forum 40 lbs which one is right one ?
hi, the only mods i have for my 2013 mazdaspeed 3 is an intake and a mazda ecu tuning software. Do i need a hpfp for these mods?
Thank you for this !
Very detailed video. You did an awesome job!
after fully loosened off the 19 mm bolt on the bottom fuel line it still is hard pressed against the fuel pump and i cant get the pump free enough to get it out because the steel line is still hard pressed, is there something lower i have to loosen on the fuel line?
I have had my ms3 for a month 3600 miles and just bought the stage 1 kit. Any advice?
I need to get those internals for my 2009
mazda cx-7 where I can get it
At what psi should I bet at. I have a corksport Sri and tih and corksport test pipe
how do I know if I have fuel pump upgrade? I'm set on stage 1+. I have the sf and rmm and the ap. Wot psi is sitting between 1680 and 1730 ROUGHLY but sets at 1724psi on the readout for its "max". I checked I don't have the dp YET. I just so happened to set it to stage 2 93(I run 94). My WOT sits well over 1800 psi max on the readout. what I'm asking really is are the internals upgraded? is it safe to run the stage 2 setting without having the dp? I find my range for fuel comes out to being higher to, when I set it at stage 2. for example I get 613km range sometimes close to 700km range when I do a fill up. But when I have it on stage 1+ for 93 fuel I get 585km range
whats up buddy question i have poo91 the presure fuel regulator -¿¿ do u know where is it where is located ,,,,,,,, thnks
Loving the videos dude. Keep it up :)
if i’m not gonna do anything to my speed3 gen 2. do i still install a hpfp?
is this all you need to run e85 flex fuel?
Is this the same Process for generation one 07-09
awesome video man . thank you
What headlights are those?
Hey, did you pull your TIP all the way off?
Anyone know the torque spec for the E8 and E25 bolts?
Do you need to clamp it? Or will it snap easy enough with a socket
What's the flow rate of the FP with this?
Very good tutorial...
hey so 2:38 do you leave the car dead, or do you press the power button again and turn it off?
My ms6 is losing fuel pressure as it sits and won't even start without spraying starter fluid into the intake. The low pressure pump is working just fine. Could this be the fuel pressure relief valve failing or the internationals of the HPFP?
Excellent video. Thank you! I followed the video literally step by step. I would add one big caution... Recommend using a face shield or be prepared to potentially be sprayed in the face from fuel when disconnecting the full lines. I ran the car out of fuel just like the video shows but had quite alot of residual pressure. Shot a geyser of fuel straight up into my face and had to flush my eyes. Other than that.. everything went great!
Should of released fuel cap would of help release some excess pressure
@@travisjohnston5778 you should share the procedural details to help other's
Where can I get an oem fuel pump??
Anyone have struggle with the e8 torx bolts? Mine are completely stuck in there
hey slipcarefully, your videos are great ! I've just got a question. My engine is currently stock and i've bought a SRI and TIP. Would it be safe to run them without hpfp or an AP ? At the minimum, could i just run the SRI independently ? My next two purchases will be the hpfp and AP
Should be fine to run just intake.
please can i have parts number of sensor , i m find it
I have removed both the circuit fuse a d the fuel/2 and the car will not run out of fuel.
I've never used a torque wrench but will be renting one for this job. How do you torque the e8 bolts to spec if you need to continuously switch after every little turn ?
you only really need it at the very last turn, when it gets really tight. you can use a normal socket until you start to need a lot of force
Slipcarefully i hope you see this. If i only have a jbr open air intake and a cat-back. Do i need a high preasure pump?
Michael Olsson I'd highly recommend it. Especially if you want to make any more power. I have a speed6 and bought the internals before I did anything else
nice video
Hey nice video , question is there any difference with the gen 1 vs. gen 2 ?
I believe they are the same process
Hi man, i have a 2009 cx7 with 133,000 kms. my hpfp have a leak between the plastic and metalic part in the top of the conector, I thing is a selenoid. Cant find vids for disassemble this part of the hpfp or if its possible. the check engine ligths on and off with the P0192 obd code and sometimes the engine fails to start. the leak is stress of plastic? or the internals need to be replaced? help and thanks in advance
@Miguel Brito bueno. No tuve respuesta en este caso. Nadie da información pero parece ser que la pieza no se consigue a menos que compres toda la bomba. En la agencia 12000 pesos y sobre pedido. En Ebay sale como en 3800. Yo conseguí una en un desguace de Guadalajara. Un amigo la reviso, compro y envío para mí. Solo desenroscando la parte del conector con una perica Y coloque el conector de la bomba que conseguí y asunto resuelto. A menos con la fuga. Ahora bien. Mi problema creo reside en el sensor del riel de inyectores. Ya revise la bomba del tanque, reemplace el sedazo que estaba muy sucio, limpie el cuerpo de aceleración Y no queda otra más que el sensor de ponga en corto al calentarse. Arrancó y jala bien mientras voy a alta velocidad. En cuanto me detengo en un tráfico o semáforo comienza a cascabelear y a veces se apaga y vuelvo a carretera y jala muy bien la camioneta. Ahora estoy buscando videos de como quitar el múltiple de admisión de aire para poder acceder al riel de inyectores. Por qué es un problema. Sigue el código P0192 activo que me remite al sensor del riel.
so what I'm REALLY asking is " are my internals upgraded?" quicker rundown: ap rmm sf
currently set at stage 1+ 93 (run 94)
WOT max set at roughly 1724psi
fuel range at fill up 585km "roughly"
Setup for stage 2 93
no DP
WOT max out at 1830 "roughly"
fuel range at fill up anywhere between 613km to 687km range. I have had higher fuel range up to 737km range before.
Does this mean it's upgraded and is it safe to run it at Stage 2 93 without a DP or even an FMIC?
If it’s upgraded you should be seeing 1900 to 2000 PSI. But only way to really be sure it is taken apart.
Very helpful video. I was hoping you could give me a bit of help. I have a 2010 MS3 with a JBR PowerPath Intake for my only engine & "Airflow" mods. I just picked up a Cobb V3 Accessport and was wondering if I need to install an Autotech HPFP to run a Stage 1 map? Do you know if the OEM Pump can still be used safely for just an intake & Accessport stage 1 map? Thank you for any help that you can provide.
Everyone's car is different.. But I'm running short ram intake, GFB blow off valve and corksport power series cat back exhaust and access port stage 1 with none yet. Need to get them pronto though lol
@@dennisthamenaceelike 7 years late but did u ever have any problems lol
I would like to know if anyone had tried unscrewing/screwing back the nut w/o a work table. Is it difficult to do with no bench vise?
Yes
thanks for the vid i just ordered them. what should the fuel pressure not go above? thanks
Not sure about going over a set amount but you want it to be able to reach 1900-2000 psi at wot.
thank you just installed yesterday! looking good!
Hey, question. How do you kee your engine bay so clean? I live in a pretty rural part of Vermont and struggle with not only keeping the inside and outside clean, but the engine bay. Anything you would recommend?
I'm a bit OCD, every Thursday I wash my car panel by panel. Scrub the wheels and windows, interior etc. I use a damp rag to wipe down the engine bay and components. Your not alone tho, my car is filthy each week.
slipcarefully Ya, unfortunately living on a dirt road has its issues. I was wondering if you use any specific products to clean it up, or any recommendations. A lot of crud is building not so much on the plastic, but the engine itself
I'd say stay away from the electronics and run a hose down and in there and if you want to be really clean use detail brushes
Did you remap the car to stage 2 before break in?
No I ran the map for stage 1 93
what IS the torque spec for those E8 inverted bolts?
I believe the torque spec is 9-11NM but I just went with snug. 2,000 miles since install and still no sign of any problems.
I got it figured out but did take about 15 minutes to shut off
I assume the install is the same for a gen 1 speed?
Was that the case? I'd like to know before dropping 350 on some hpfps
Same engines . May have to take more stuff off to acces tho . But still the same pump
what made you install this fuel pump instead of the corksport one?
Overall I have been very happy with Cobb products and this is what they recommended.
I hear the corksport ones shit out sometimes. Same with these ones but more often with corksport.
I'm new to the tunning world , what number should my accesspot should be reading to be sure im not running lean? Thanks guys
did you ever happen to find out cause i want to eventually tune my car as well.
Anything above 10 or -10 is running super lean/rich. At WOT you should be at 0 LTFT. However, most turners like Freektune, and PurpleDrank will work on your LTFT. When I first started my tune, my car was roughly 12 LTFT, but after a few map revisions with Freektune, my car sits at roughly -3, and at WOT it's 0.
You don't have to remove the turbo inlet hose or the battery to do this job
Did this mod made your car run rich in fuel? What was the short and long term fuel trim after that?
I would have thought you would need a tune afterwards ? My exact thoughts
Unless the hpfp internals only "allows" for more fuel to pumped through . But the ecu still squirts the same amount of fuel out of the injectors because of the same tune . Possibly answered my own question ??
I have catback, autoexe intake and 2nd cat removed. Do I need a HPFP for this ?
Morepore yes you should get them.
My car has yet to die after removing fuse is it supposed to take long?
pull fuse, start car let it run a minute or so, turn car off then try to restart it, should just turn over at that point.
at 8:32 in the video you are applying oil, the part you are holding has two o-ring grooves inside to seal the pushrod. The grooves are different sizes, I'm trying to find out why and what o-rings to use. When I pulled my o-rings out there was actually two in the bottom groove. I installed these (www.mcmaster.com/#1200n156/=14k9f5x ) but the lower groove seems too big for these rings, the top groove fit's perfectly.
How did you compress the housing enough to get the threads started when re installing? Mine is super hard and won’t compress far enough
Mine is doing the same
X3, did you guys solved the issue ?
@@asurimramirez1249 I had to take the whole fuel pump that houses the internals apart to get it to work
@@derrickheisler5781 :( It would take me more time then, thanks for the tip friend!
Mine has the ticking idling and barley giving it gas you can hear like a weird noise like I can’t explain it but giving it a lil more throttle it goes away, but I also have a new fuel pump because I stripped my bolt from my old one.. so I don’t know if that’s the reason
My engine ticks at idle . But I know it's the EGR Valve opening and closing constantly
Hey my car is doing the exact same thing with the noise going away at higher rpm. What did the issue end up being?
is the fuel pump in the same spot for speed6?
Blind_Hero Sonic_Bottler yes, both cars have the same engines. I'm thinking about doing mine soon. My fuel pump has started ticking bad. But I hear they all make some ticking noise
@@guitarmatt0867 could be your EGR valve opening and closing constantly
where is that psi reading coming from? i dont get where in the fuel system my car has 1800 psi of pressure
The high pressure fuel pump creates the pressure needed to push enough fuel through the injectors. High Pressure Fuel Pump.
yes but theres no way the fuel system is at 1800psi at WOT thats what my cobb ap says the psi is but thats insane and doesnt make sense
Direct injection must overcome cylinder pressures during the compression stroke.
How does it effect mpg?
For unforeseen personal circumstances I have the car completely back to stock with the exception of the hpfp. My miles per gallon is just as good as the day I bought it. 23city 31hwy
If you know anyone I live in Birmingham AL
So I pulled out the Circuit fuse on my 2013 Speed 3 and the car wont die....what could be the reason?
I'm having the same issue...
GCFIRE328 I figured it out, in the video the car shut down right away but in my car it took around 10 minutes of running before it lost fuel. Just leave the car on for awhile then it will shut down
What if I forgot to drain my fuel lines
You'll have lots of fuel squirting out as soon as you loosen the pipe or lines.
what state are u in? please come and install mine, can't find a mechanic around who seems to know what they are doing!! And I sure as hell aint.
Your best bet would be to find your nearest performance shop, I live in iowa.
I live in Bham. Get on mazdaspeedforums.org, post up in the NatorAL section and come out to a meet. We all know how to do this and have the tools.
My car cranks but won't start after installing this...why? 😭😭😭
Did you ever figure this out? My MS6 is doing the same thing
Did you reinstall the fuel pump fuse? That would keep the car from starting.
Blue 'fuse' is a relay, not a fuse. Just a nitpick
Raise the "bar"
lol
Good Video except you used several tools you didnt mention at first
Thank you for catching that I'll be uploading a revised version later this week
Gas came out of my intake after installing it
For instructions go to
cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/640450675/371100-Autotech+Fuel+Pump+Internals
i cant even get the fucking fuse out? they are all stuck in except the small ones. the fuck?
I used a hammer to get mine out
And this cost almost 400 dollars why?
+Mitch Oakwood Because its worth it. :P
+Mitch Oakwood fuck try living in canada paying 500 for them lmao
It's 350$ which is sooo much cheaper than getting a new block because you decided to mod without them lol.
Because it prevents your engine from blowing up
do i need the ap or i can install it without the ap
You can do this without the AP. It's purely a "supporting" mod. Allows the vehicle to reliably push through higher pressures.
BeniGoPro The Access Port allows you to monitor the fuel pressure to make sure proper pressure is maintained. AP is definitely not required ,... BUT ,... It is highly recommended that you monitor the fuel pressure after the install and during the 100 mile brake in period. That's were the AP comes in handy.
If you don't have an AP you can get a hold of a Wi-Fi or Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and use an app on your smart phone to monitor fuel pressure. I use the Torque app on my android. It all works great.