Screw everyone else this is the best installation guide on RUclips for the install. Not one person mentioned what side the bottom piece with the hole should be facing/located !!! Except this guy. I had to do a lot of research and this is the only guy that mentioned that part !!!
One thing I appreciate you mentioning is the ticking sound from the upgraded internals! I remember when I first did mine and I heard the ticking, I thought something was seriously wrong!
Great video. Been working up the nerve to do this for years now and finally pulled the trigger today lol. Original owner of a 2008, and while my stock internals have been fine for the past couple of years with a shelf cobb stage1+sf tune, I am ready to go to the next stage and this bugger has been in my way long enough! Thanks guys
What other aftermarket parts were you running with the stage 1+sf before HPFP upgrade? trying to figure out if this is what I need next or if I can hold off a little while longer.
@@willg125 You need to asap if you introduce mods or a tune. The stock internals cannot handle pushing additional fuel through to match the increased airflow. If you don't do this you risk running lean and causing detonation = bye bye engine. Thats why so many speed3's are blown up and they have an "unreliable" reputation. People can tbe bothered to educate themselves before modding/tuning.
Would it be safe running a bov Cobb intake and grimmspeed boost controller with hpfp? Asking bc a guy is selling me one and he bought it with these upgrades but unsure of hpfp
Mine did not go in as easy, it’s like the coil is holding it back or something inside so I’d have to compress it but your video shows me that I do not have to force it in. Any ideas ?
What brand of security Torx 25 did you use? The hole in my Craftsman's is not deep enough to allow the teeth to engage to get the low pressure connection off.
Whats your actual pressure at idle after driving for awhile? I did the corksport rebuild kit and autotech internals installation and the prime as well before starting it. And on a cold start it reads 420-430 consistently at idle but after driving for awhile it dips to mid to low 300s? I'm just confused if its suppose to fluctuate that much or not.
I followed the steps and took out the rod and spring to get to the 18mm. I have no idea why 18mm or even 19mm isnt fitting. It just sits on top of the nut
I broke the yellow clip on the fuel line. Any advice on where to get a replacement clip? Or if there's an alternative way to secure the line? If I have to I'll order the whole line
I'd try calling an auto wrecker to see if you can get the line or just the clip for cheap. Or maybe a ziptie can do the trick temporarily, best of luck!
Great video! Is there a way to verify that HPFP is installed by simply looking at the PSI readings you viewed after installation. I am buying one from a dealer and was told the previous owner did, but i want to make sure without pulling it
Hey, no you can't really rely on the PSI readings because even the original HPFP can spike to 1800-1900PSI. If it's hitting 2100 PSI it would be a decent assumption that it's been upgraded but it would be best to do your due diligence and take it out and check. If you take it apart and you can pull the shaft out it is 100% original equipment. Best of luck!
@@bobbydouglas16 I don't have the exact fuse number but in your fuse box in your engine bay you should be able to find a fuse labelled "F/PUMP" rated at 30amps. Pulling this will likely kill power to your low pressure fuel pump and enable you to drain the system by cranking the engine until it stalls.
My god with the amount of stuff you removed, and having to drain the line, and all that other complicated stuff you did I’d rather pay a mechanic to do it on my Mazda 6 lol. At least now I know it’s out of my capabilities lol
Screw everyone else this is the best installation guide on RUclips for the install. Not one person mentioned what side the bottom piece with the hole should be facing/located !!! Except this guy. I had to do a lot of research and this is the only guy that mentioned that part !!!
One thing I appreciate you mentioning is the ticking sound from the upgraded internals! I remember when I first did mine and I heard the ticking, I thought something was seriously wrong!
Great video. Been working up the nerve to do this for years now and finally pulled the trigger today lol. Original owner of a 2008, and while my stock internals have been fine for the past couple of years with a shelf cobb stage1+sf tune, I am ready to go to the next stage and this bugger has been in my way long enough! Thanks guys
What other aftermarket parts were you running with the stage 1+sf before HPFP upgrade? trying to figure out if this is what I need next or if I can hold off a little while longer.
you were running a cobb ots tune without upgrading your hpfp internals? Consider yourself very lucky you didn't zzb.
@@willg125 You need to asap if you introduce mods or a tune. The stock internals cannot handle pushing additional fuel through to match the increased airflow. If you don't do this you risk running lean and causing detonation = bye bye engine. Thats why so many speed3's are blown up and they have an "unreliable" reputation. People can tbe bothered to educate themselves before modding/tuning.
@@obomasinladen it's been a year, I've installed the hpfp internals and I have stage 2 mods too
100 subs, been here since the Miata, never forget
thanks guys, I was looking for a detail one on taking the high pressure fuel out of the car.
Glad it helped! 👍
100 subs!! Lovin’ it
What bov are you running? Been looking for thst sound for my gen2 ms3
Would it be safe running a bov Cobb intake and grimmspeed boost controller with hpfp? Asking bc a guy is selling me one and he bought it with these upgrades but unsure of hpfp
This is 2012 ms3
I have mazda 6 2017 the hpfp doesn't work probably, where can I get the internal parts from?
so i doubt ill get a reply but what kind of oil? just motor oil?
Ya almost certain it was just motor oil.
Did you mean to say that the pump housing o-ring would cause an oil leak rather than a fuel leak?
Good video thank you guys 💯🙏🏼💯
Mine did not go in as easy, it’s like the coil is holding it back or something inside so I’d have to compress it but your video shows me that I do not have to force it in. Any ideas ?
What brand of security Torx 25 did you use? The hole in my Craftsman's is not deep enough to allow the teeth to engage to get the low pressure connection off.
u need a t25 with a hollow middle. ur local shop should have one for 10-20$
Whats your actual pressure at idle after driving for awhile? I did the corksport rebuild kit and autotech internals installation and the prime as well before starting it. And on a cold start it reads 420-430 consistently at idle but after driving for awhile it dips to mid to low 300s? I'm just confused if its suppose to fluctuate that much or not.
No..something is wrong. Never should drop below 400psi
Ever figure it out? Having same issues
Do you need a tune after internals?
No
I followed the steps and took out the rod and spring to get to the 18mm. I have no idea why 18mm or even 19mm isnt fitting. It just sits on top of the nut
I broke the yellow clip on the fuel line. Any advice on where to get a replacement clip? Or if there's an alternative way to secure the line? If I have to I'll order the whole line
I'd try calling an auto wrecker to see if you can get the line or just the clip for cheap. Or maybe a ziptie can do the trick temporarily, best of luck!
Great video! Is there a way to verify that HPFP is installed by simply looking at the PSI readings you viewed after installation. I am buying one from a dealer and was told the previous owner did, but i want to make sure without pulling it
Hey, no you can't really rely on the PSI readings because even the original HPFP can spike to 1800-1900PSI. If it's hitting 2100 PSI it would be a decent assumption that it's been upgraded but it would be best to do your due diligence and take it out and check. If you take it apart and you can pull the shaft out it is 100% original equipment. Best of luck!
@@Calvinm exactly what fuse needs to come out ?
@@bobbydouglas16 I don't have the exact fuse number but in your fuse box in your engine bay you should be able to find a fuse labelled "F/PUMP" rated at 30amps. Pulling this will likely kill power to your low pressure fuel pump and enable you to drain the system by cranking the engine until it stalls.
Nice video, but try and keep a rag to catch the fuel as it drops out of the old parts. Makes me nerovus lol
no zoom, just boom
Can i use enguine oil to lub the parts?
Yes!
Dude 😂
Do you guys know if it an Autotech EA113? Is it the same HPFP internals for the VW/AUDI/SEAT 2.0TFSI? Thank you :)
From my research it looks like the Mazda upgraded HPFP is different from the Audi 2.0TFSI one. Might be a tiny difference but possibly crucial.
Calvin MC thank you for the help.
Calvin MC its confusing as they sell it as mazdaspeed HPFP + early 2.0 TFSI. autotech.com/autotech-high-volume-fuel-pump-upgrade-kit-2-0t-fsi.html
Hmmm that link does look like it would work for both. If they say it’ll work then it should work.
Nice video. More than 250.000 Miles yet on the engine? Is that true? Best Regards from Germany
Over 250,000 kilometers... so not quite haha. Thats about 155,000 miles though.
Bro you skipped the part of getting the hard fuel line under that cup piece
Ya, it was impossible to film and do at the same time. Now you know to look out for it though!
My god with the amount of stuff you removed, and having to drain the line, and all that other complicated stuff you did I’d rather pay a mechanic to do it on my Mazda 6 lol. At least now I know it’s out of my capabilities lol
Mahzdeh
Zap Strap
Deadass never heard them called that. Cable ties and zip ties is the only thing i heard