Valve Job Techniques - Aardema & Braun Style - Homemade 2L Billet Racing Engine.
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- In this video we are going see how Kevin Braun does a valve job and what it takes to modify a V8 Nissan Indy Racing League cylinder head for their new two-liter billet motor they are making from scratch. This video also includes information as to how the Pete and Kevin prepare their own camshafts and CC the cylinder head to calculate the compression ratios.
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I'm in PA. Out of the military. Willing to start sweeping floors at a shop like this to start learning. This is amazing.
Bin, Thank you for severing our country. Greg
Nothing has changed in 100 years when it comes to re- fitting valve seats and guides . All of this can be done by hand , a normal oven and a few tools ( seat cutters , guide reamer , guide hone ,) once you have the tools you make the rules as to how tight you want for the fuel , oil, compression , valve to piston clearance , spring seat pressure , valve over lap duration , blown or NA . You will be as old as these guys and never be happy until you try something new to see if it works better . 36deg or 37 deg valve seat angle might gain or loose power @ 5500 rpm where you would want it say for a roundy round car , where a 55 Deg vs a 56deg will blow up a motor at 10k rpm due to flame frontage / propagation . Then when do you change from incknell sodium filled valves vs ? Once you fall down this massive rabbit hole then the more questions you will have . Thats why these guys have been doing it for a life time build break repeat until it works then push it until it blows up ,then back to the drawing board. LOL. These guys are out of the box thinkers and can build anything they dream of just like you can once you start doing it . Learn the basics of how to weld , read a micrometer , dial indercator , snap gauge , bore gauge , hand run lathe and mill and your off to a new world of education of self taught .This CNC shit is nice for mass production but thats not how they got there ( the big well know crate motors) they fought like everyone else until they had a sellable product . Then comes tuning for different air , temp, suspension and on and on . I would suggest you just build a turbo car to run 10's in the 1/4 that is fairly straight forward bolt on ,BUT, it will get your mind working and progressing towards what you seek to know. Then when you have a grasp on that 5-6 yrs from now your ready to push a broom in a shop like this . No disrespect towards how smart you might be now ,but, thse guys are miles above basic teaching skills . Good luck with what ever way you choose to go ,just remember this hobby will consume your life to the point you wake up in bed and have a idea that will haunt you .
@@pkuudsk9927 Imagine having multiple hobbies, like electronics and this one. I'm not specialist in any but I do have those haunting ideas when sleeping, you are very right at that.
Learning something new is marvelous.
But you should study first if can né worth.
Thanks for your service my friend.
I appreciate that this build is being documented so we can see what is done. So many things get lost to history.
Thank you James, This has been a blast to document this awesome team. I will be releasing another video here shortly of the last history making race of the 2021 season. Greg
A huge thanks to you and Aardema Braun for sharing this content. A mountain of knowledge being shared here.
Our pleasure! I will be uploading another video here shortly. I appreciate the support Merry Christmas!
The things you can learn from older gentleman craftsman like these is absolutely second to none, the couple years I’ve been able to hangout in a shop with guys like this has been a real treat and a gift.
I just love the “simplicity “ of this, you could have these tools at home and do your own valve job 🏁👌🏻great stuff
I could watch videos like this forever! Awesome!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I don't understand how you don't have more subscribers here 🤷♂️
I wish all of you guys and your channel the best
Reuben Barnett, I'm pretty new to the RUclips deal. I'm not sure how to get more subscribers? Hopefully this will gain more traction soon. This entire experience has been very inspiring for me. I appreciate the support. Thank you, Greg
Thank you so much for all these videos! I worked as a Machinist Fabricator for years. Been around the block a few times. But everytime I watch you I learn ! A LOT!
Now that im retired/disabled gonna have a bit of time to finally "really" use my mill. Long ago I worked at a performance machining shop. Always hoped to do it again.
Looking to start fabbing engines from scratch like you are. Allready have my materials/barstock drops horde. Thank you for the trail of breadcrumbs to get me back on track. Really looking forward to creating a DOHC head on my own! Again Much thanks!
It’s a pleasure to watch an old perfectionist do his work. Thanks for sharing.👌🇦🇺👍
Glad you enjoyed it Merry Christmas!
The right tool for the job is the one that works! Doesn't have to be High tech! I love their work!
Their*
That's for sure!
Brings back wonderful and sometimes frustrating memories 👏👍🤗
Wish I had that rig whilst building my own engines when racing at Kyalami F1 circuit in the ‘70s.
Measured head volume the same way and took ages balancing them during grinding.
One of the best experiences, plus racing‼️
Thank you Geoff!
I use big syringe on that and its syntetic rubber piston seized up with some liquids. Always rearm after guide installation because they bent when installing, like these pros do. Real pros. good video.
Thank you!
Experts make the most complicated things seem simple.
getting a relatively exact measurement for a given volume is science, lol. nice vid.
I want more!! I wish these videos were longer, I love this stuff, I love different engines, especially the home built, or modified engines, I often planned out offset ground cranks, different length rods and different compression height pistons, and possibly modifying pistons, to build different engines, one of the first was a 302 Chevy,. 283 crank , 350 block, and pistons with 6" rods, if I had the equipment and machinery to mill rods, and turn cranks, ordering rods with blank small ends, the moon would only be a rest stop to endless limits of what could be built, with cutting and welding modified blocks, or even custom built blocks, I think the first would be a inline 6, with BBC bores, maybe use a cut anc welded LS 7 head, intake on the left, ex.on the right , party in thr middle! About 4.250 stroke, and about 4.300" max bore, with O-RING seals, with the piston dome, machined to fit the head, with 6 bolt main, and the two outers going to the deck, actually holding the head on as well, with extra tabs welded to the head,
Possibly using a steel clamshell for the mains, the steel block side, machined and press fit into the block, and bolted into webbing, with direct oiling, use multiple oil pumps, with a semi sealed cam tunnel, scavenger oil pumps, with a 2piece oil pan sealing each cylinder , except for a small passage to the oil pickup, a semi dry dump, a basically dry dump system, using a oil in pan oil tank, and the cam being two LS cams and lifters,. The cam used a taper fit coupler, welded the two half's together, after a fine tuning of timing, possibly using multiple couplings, to put lobes where required, per cylinder, a possible using a fine tapered spine drive, using a the cam tunnel should be half full of oil under normal operation, keeping the rollers and bearings lubed and cool.
Machine the crank from 4340, with 4340 rods, with the cam being mounted just under the deck, no real pushrod required, the lifters nearly above deck when on top of the lobe, the , the cam placed high similar to a Detroit diesel 2stroke, 6-71, the inline engines, the head could possibly be modified to house the lifters, and the rockers modified , or built to fit inside the lifter, using titanium and aluminum, the pushrods would be about 1" Long , so valve springs could possibly be much lighter, it may be better to build a custom cam, from scratch, starting with a a large od journal, 50-60mm allowing for larfe bade circle, run about .700"-.750" lift, .800" max, maybe angle mill the head slightly to get the exhaust ports closer to level, maybe angle mill the deck aswell, only about
.045"-.060" from level, and possibly mill the exhaust flange surface, and weld a 1.5" thick bar of 3" aluminum, to the head at the flange area to raise and turn the exhaust ports weld the bat around the exterior, aswell as the interior of the ports, and several plug welds, keep the same bolt pattern, possibly make the pattern wider, use additional bolts , make a 3/8"-1/2" steel plate, 1/2" larger than the ports, and remove material not required, the bolt pattern changed If required, make it possible to make headers by cutting headers for LS, removing a tube, weld a plate over the intake side as well, about .750" 3.5", milled at a angld to level the port flange, mill thr port entrance to allow high velocity, unrestricted fuel/air flow using two injectors per port, one on top one on bottom, with approximately 5" long runners, with a slight funnel shape, being about 1/2" larger a from 2" out, .5" taller, .5" wider, going into a 6"x 1/8" wall sq tubing, turned to form a diamond shape , or caddycornered , with the runners longer on the bottom to fit the angle, cut the square off at opposite corners weld on a .750" x
.250" flat bar, to allow the two pieces be bolted back together, with 3mm screws every 30 mm around the perimeter, using two 70+mm throttle bodies one each end, possibly from a Chevy 5.3-6.0 truck, by welding .500" thick aluminum rolled to form a funnel shape to go from about 65-70 mm, small end, to about 5"-5.5" x 7"-8" and about, 8" long, x2 welded to the 6" sq tube, to form the inlets, mounted between thefront two and rear two intake ports, using two pieces of 1/16" tubing tubing 4" long, connected to a large flattened funnel from thin sheet metal, going to a 4" tubing inlet, split to two 3" outlets, using rubber couplings, to vonnrct zo the throttle body, can be used to install a water to air intercooler, but a 4" cone filter will be fine, two throttle Bodies used on a V8 engine, is overkill, so it will not be a restriction, use modified LS7 manifold/headers, and a turbo would be nice as well, running @ 2bar , at about 353cid, 5.8L roughly it is a large engine, posdibly push thr stroke to 4.5" , with 4.300" bore, 392cid i6, it may need bbc head! With the cam3" or less from the deck, a cam sprocket and chain will not fit, so a in block oil pump, fitted below the cam, housing. 3 scavenger, and single pressure pump, fitting similar to a p-pump on a Cummings diesel engine, with oil lines bolting on externally, with sump pickup, and oil cooler, and dual filters, use a traditional timing gear chain, to the oil pump, with a gear driven from oil pump to the cam, using a pair of small gears, around 4" x 1.25" thick, large rnough to put the timing gear sprocket with chain about 1.5" from the cam of, to miss the gear mounting bits, a d possibly cam button, also incorporate a ledge under the gears, to hold oil. Using the oil leaking from the bearings to lube the gears, possibly have a oil squirter in the ledge to spray the gear, .020" orifice, use a traditional Chevy i6 water pump mounted in a block on the block, with a 2" pipe splitting to multiple .5" lines, going ibto tge block on eack side down low, mid bore, pulling water from the head, with water entering the head at front and rear, and possibly several places on the exhaust side, by a water manifold with 3/8"-1/2" tubing, using two small injectors not a single large injector, should spray a finer mist of fuel, and the bungs tge injectors are mounted in should be shapped like a whistle, having a dip to the outside, this being the area where the injector is mounted, at a angle putting it as close to parallel as possible to the runner, to pull the injector out of the air flow, having only the tip just below the air stream, one top, one bottom mounted, with a 1/2" line feeding each end, and a 1/2" return in the middle , the end of each rail, this should supply enough fuel for nearly 1k HP on methanol, or near 1400-1600 on gas, fuel rail made from 5/8" to .750" i.d. tubing, with weld on fittings for the injectors, to allow 5/8 to 1" fuel line, with enough oil flow to to fill a bathtub th a few minutes, the mains and rods should have no less than 60psi , and also use external oil passages from the rod journal to the pin, pressed in and soldered, 1/16" oil hole, 3/16" dilver soldered in, lighten the crank as much as possible, as well as rods and pistons, with the pin budhings with tiny grooves to spread oil, abe possibly a 1/32" hole in the tip ifcthe rod ti spray oil on the piston for cooling, the ksin oil being ded from a external line, to each main web, allowing the main to oil the rod by journal by in crank passages, instead of using narrow bearings, use wide bearings with a wide groove in the middle of the bearings, allowing oil to be fed to the whole bearing, with long rods short pistons, 6.125" anyway, and deck height to fit the package, and a vacuum pump to lower the crank case pressure, use thin low driction rings,with a gasport dome,
Sorry I rambled too much, but definitely would like to build something like this,
Thanks you and thanks to these
gentlemans.Some of us are young and
really want to see and learn this stuff.
Tremendous value in learning the step by step process to determine compression ratio
Just awesome machine work.
👏👍
Thanks 👍 More cool stuff coming soon.
I’m going to try the windex trick. I have to machine beryllium copper valve seats quite often.
I’ve been machining custom sized seat rings out of moldstar90. That is interesting material and quite expensive.
I also observed a different honing technique with the valve guide hone that I will have to try on smaller guides.
Thanks guys.
Precisely measured engine great～♪
I have seen the chamber measured like that before. I was pretty surprised. they said they knew what it was already but wanted to check and be sure it matches
I'll bet the Nissan engine designers didn't see that as a possibility for one of their heads.
Hi mr. Greg. I see you are professional of your job. I have 1 question. Neway valve refacer vfr-1000 realy good tool or its only in video good? This tool can cut very hard valves?
when he pulled out the burette i was like yooo say no more fam im gonna build my own head now not sure if i'm going to dive binto a custom block straight away, 3sge or 4g63 or should i go for a more modern base if i can cheers
G'day from West Australia, Greg😉
My chuckle scientific cc measuring device is much more primitive 🙂
I go to the chemist buy some syringes and Walla I convert there to work out combustion chamber sizes in cc's!!!
Much slower but works for the moment.😄🙂👍👍
Merry Christmas Steve! Thanks for supporting this channel- Greg
@@GregQuirin why wouldn't I, credit were credit is due for hard work etc.😉🙂👍👍
If its be bronze...I would not use air blowing the BE bronze chips away.....
Berryllium bronze dust causes berillioses in the lungs...... ending up in lung cancer.
Also , being a Professional head porter for more than 20 years...I only use a valve and guide machine cutting seats. As its very very difficult, if not impossible, have all the seats in line with guide bore and at same height.
so cool i wonder how the found that head keep the good work greg
Thank you! I'm looking forward to uploading more video's soon.
I’m still amazed that people think cc’ing a head is some big deal 🤣🤣🤣🤣! I was taught how to do that when I was 10! I’m sure the valve job is good 👍🏻! Because he’s probably been doing it that way since the 80s! At least he’s not still grinding with a stone 🙄! If you saw how fast a EPOC cuts as close to perfect valve job as you could get! Your mind would be blown 🤯! The cutters he’s using are made by the same company! I’m guessing they probably don’t do enough valve jobs to justify the cost! Because any race or production shop cannot afford to spend all day doing a valve job! What made us believers was my boss brought a set of heads to a equipment show, he spent a whole day fiddlefcking with the valve job to make it what we thought was perfect 👍🏻! Well when that EPOC machine went in & completely recut his so-called perfect valve job, he wasn’t happy! But when we reflowed those heads, they were up almost 10cfm! That’s a shit ton when those heads were for a no porting allowed class! We had a huge power advantage for around 3 full race seasons! They tore us down every time we won 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Which was a lot! If you look @ any real pro racing teams, or real professional cylinder head shops, you will see them using a Neway EPOC! I believe Serdi just brought out a new machine that is similar, basically single point live tooling cutting! I’m not knocking these guys at all! Because most of us did it the same way! It’s very hard to get every single valve @ the same height with those older hand cutters 🙄!
Should be using alcohol or mineral oil for CCing the chamber
I'd love to hang out in a shop like this I have some early hi compression Ford 289 heads I'd like to get the most out of for my period correct mustang build
Right on! It is pretty cool hanging out with Pete and Kevin!
@@GregQuirin I'm just getting into engine building myself I'm a young engineer myself but grew up in the automotive service industry. I've been doing as much research as I can about head work and engine design. The goal is to build as much as I can out of the engine that would have come in my car if I would have been lucky enough to buy it in the 60s... Almost 30 years before I was born😂
If you use alcohol it has less surface tension and forms the top of the liquid flatter. More accurate.
and u done this how man times again?
@@kiiiisu
Many. Alcohol instead of water. Common knowledge for ccing
I was thinking using washer fluid.
The blue would make it real easy to see the level in the barrette. Eyes aren't as good as they were 20yrs ago when I learned how to do this.
@@wrenchpony9735 sounds like a decent idea. I think some washer fluids have alcohol. But the colour sounds good. We have been using methylated spirit or vodka. No joke. Less concave in the fluid.
Beryllium copper valve seats. I have those in my subaru heads.
Now I know I'm not crazy I run Ford parts on the Yamaha. What parts exactly I will not say
Merry Christmas ☃️
Merry Christmas to you as well. I will be uploading another video here shortly. Stay tuned!
TRy to use windshield viper fluid when CCing
Windex is that a greek thing ?
The valves are usually only cut at 3 angles this 4th angle is pretty fascinating
5 isn't unheard of either.
@@MrTheHillfolk what if they just made it smooth?
Radiused seats