This is wonderful! Thank you for the exhaustive information still relevant to mere mortals. But most importantly thank you for listening to people. The last flexibility video title got me really hyped, but when I saw Aidan doing stuff I can't even dream of I really felt the frustration settling in. This is a golden example of connection with your viewers/community/fans.
This is probably the best video I've seen on flexibility for climbers. Thanks for only including 3 exercises. Nothing less motivating than the "25 crucial stretches for climbers" video 😁
This is quite funny because Matt was my old climbing instructor and he used to always make us stretch and would not let anyone climb with out stretching
I also feel that doing tempo stretches gives the ability for the body to reset each rep as well as learn to move into or out of agile positions in a controlled manner. Sometimes i feel im stretching something but not in the intended/ right way. Rather then actually stretching its pinching somewhere. Performing the stretches using these controlled tempo stretches allow me to repeatedly feel if I'm settling into the right position and how I can move through it, without cramping up.Intuitively I've known this 'in and out' technique for a while but having a proper procedure to refer to as well as your expertise to back it up definitely helps. Thanks for this!
VERY useful info. Thanks. 1 critique though, that goes for ALL gym- and stretch specialists on youtube : you guys have no idea what "inflexible" means. Imagine the "before"-guy in the video above, then diminish the angle between his 2 legs to about 60-65° instead of the 90°+ in the video ( because of stiffness in his inner thighs ) , and finally round his back wáy more to the point he can barely avoid falling backwards ( mostly because of stiffness in his hamstrings ). THAT'S inflexible. I should know, I'm one of them... :-)
16:08 This is the content I was waiting for! As also someone who has quite a bit of functional flexibility on the wall but terrible hamstring/lower-back based tightness, it's always such a slog to have to stare at a stopwatch while being incredibly uncomfortable in a stretch position. Tempo stretching plays well to the traditional reps/sets kind of dynamic, while also allowing for easier integration into supersets, which I think a lot of climbers use to save time in their busy lives. Thanks so much!
The concept of interval stretching was new to me and I am already a huge fan! Being able to count reps and treat it as another part of my training regimen is cool, but mostly it honestly just feels more effective for me!
Thank you so much! This is exactly the kind of video I was looking for! Flexibility is a part of my training that’s been lacking when compared with strength training and technique since I started climbing a year and a half ago and this is something that I can see myself doing all the time to be the most functional I can be on the wall. Thanks 👍👍
Thank you for creating such thorough videos! I’ve been working on my flexibility since watching the “Aidan's Flexibility Routine” a month ago. I’ve gotten better but this is very helpful to keep my progress going!
Thank you for the video, it's very helpful. Are there any specific recommendations for warming up? I like to stretch first thing in the morning, but I can't get to end range of motion because I'm not warmed up yet, and I wonder whether these morning stretches are even effective.
I really like to do both. Tempo stretching 1-2x a week when I am in a gym. Then a passive stretching routine on other days, often at home or in my warm-up/cool-down.
What advice would you give to keep the new range of motion acquired through those exercices? I'm afraid I'll revert back to inflexibility as soon as I stop...
I've always found more relaxed passive stretching is an easy way to maintain. I like to do this in every warm-up and cool-down, so it does not feel like any added hassle to my schedule.
I think it would have been really good to add a section about timing. Stretching is the bees knees but depending on your goals or training cycle should potentially be implemented timed around sport specific training and resistance training.
Great video! A quick question about the Lat Pull-over. I notice when doing those that it puts quite a load on my neck. Is this something that's just because of my inflexibility and is okay or is this something I should look out for? Cheers!
If you are laying normally on a bench i.e. parallel, it can feel like you need to brace the weight with the neck when offering it behind your head. The fix it to do it on a bench but perpendicular like we did in the video. That way your head is not on the bench and you won't need to push down into the bench. However you'll still need to hold the weight of your head up but this should not be too difficult when you get used to the exercise.
This is great, do you know of any books that outline this sort of thing body wise? I’d like to know more around the pigeon pose, my knee gets quite sore from the pressure in this and it would be great to know how to work up to it. However thing the interaction of muscles and the impacts of stretching one on another would be interesting to hear about
I'm not sure about a comprehensive stretching book but I am sure some exist. I've gained my knowledge bit by bit over many years. We are also working on an online course here, should be released later this year. Specifically for the pigeon, start with the knee elevated higher than the foot, so your shin is not horizontal but at an easier angle. You can prop up the knee with yoga blocks or cushions. Gradually work towards your normal pigeon over weeks and months by decreasing the angle of the shin.
Finally ! The problem with flexible people is they don't realize some positions are simply impossible for others, the pancake being the absolute worst for me.
I may be wrong here, but, isn't the frog position also used to help to get the feet lift higher? Thus it's if that's the goal then in the frog position one should also kind of push back while in the position? Maybe just totally different exercises though.
As a new climber I see my biggest weakness now as flexibility. I've worked on finger strength and fitness and do yoga but flexibility is still poor. Thanks for the video.
Two tips that may help. First try stretching your calfs with a couple sets before the pancake. Then try to keep a soft bend in the knee, just a small one, when doing your pancake fold.
I can't get my heels to my butt, causing me to push myself out of the wall in some positions. Also it means that it takes a huge amount of energy just to sit on my knees. How can I improve this mobility?
Regarding the tourque and if you want to apply a maximum torque when stretching: I find it very questionable unless you are are 18 years and have a perfectly healthy body. Otherwise author may want to rethink his recommendations.
It's most obvious on steep terrain which involves heel hooks and toe hooks. Things where your going for high feet but with a straight leg. If you watch flexible climbers you'll see them use hamstring flexibility a lot. e.g. ruclips.net/video/o-mvzn_QjAQ/видео.htmlsi=Gq289KwWX11gFEVw&t=685 It not only allows more options for movement, it also makes normal movement easier. You have less 'internal' resistance from your own body and movement flows easier with less strength required.
That first stretch is really painful on my knees! My muscles are tight but some of my joints are hypermoble and I think anything that puts lateral pressure on my knees like that is not going to work for me…
To my eyes, Matt is bending mostly at the waist not at the hips. Hip bend is a fundamental element of gaining hip mobility that perhaps he needs to focus on first
Is it not so that he is bending at his lower back reachinging for horizontal. Rather then anterior tilting his pelvis to actually target problematic hamstrings?
Great question! It really depends on what your aim is. If you are doing tempo stretching, having high torque is really important because total time under tension may only be 20-30 seconds. So the intensity of the stretch needs to be high to see progress in range of motion. But we could also do a passive stretch for 90secs to 3mins. In which case torque can be low and we'll benefit from being in a more relaxed position.
Back pain is tough, sorry to hear that Jack. It's worth seeing what you can do to address that first including seeing a physio/PT. You don't want it to hold you back from exercise and freedom of movement if at all possible.
This sounds like it could be an bone impingement problem and it's quite an important one to avoid. Easiest way to avoid it is to opt for a supine frog variation, and secondly really focussing on the anterior tilt of the pelvis when stretching in this position, as it allows for more room between the hip socket and the femur bone. Hope this helps!
Yeah, what I don't like about these videos as well as with most "lattice training videos" is that the exercises are not accessible since they need lots of equipment or other requirements are not satisfied. For example, not everyone has weights at home. Furthermore, most people won't have a wall where they can put their feet on at home unless they want to make the walls dirty.
The new "frog pose" should be called "giving birth pose"... I've never seen a frog on its back with its feet against a wall trying to get the wall as dirty as possible to instigate all sorts of conflicts with its roommates. Frogs are not very good climbers, especially because they lack the interest and the internal void that prompts one to replace meaningful relationships and improving the world with progression along made up difficulty scales for going from point A to B in a rock or wooden/plastic wall. We should all aspire to be more like frogs and less like creatures who are birthed in weird positions.
This is really bad and potentially dangerous advise. A group of frogs is called an Army! Therefore if climbers listen to your advise they could group together under different ideological and philosophical dogma. Boulderers will form an Army against Trad climbers, Sport climbers etc. Anarchy will ensue and one climbing discipline will rise to the top with militant rule and overwhelm the media. Claiming that all other climbing disciplines are "not real climbing" and new disciples should only join their faction.
@@LatticeTraining What you fail to see is that a group of frogs can also be called a knot. The connection to climbing is obvious: boats used to assist deep water soloing often cannot surpass 15 knots. What frogs want and do is not anarchy, but anarchism: freedom and mutual aid, leisure and community.
One thing left out of the concept part is the why. Why is this a good exercise? What is it stretching. Sorry. I need pictures. Also, my lower back hurts when I do it so I know I'm stretching the wrong thing.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
This is wonderful! Thank you for the exhaustive information still relevant to mere mortals. But most importantly thank you for listening to people. The last flexibility video title got me really hyped, but when I saw Aidan doing stuff I can't even dream of I really felt the frustration settling in. This is a golden example of connection with your viewers/community/fans.
Thank you., I was one of those subscribers. Didn't write a comment but definitely was thinking along the same lines.
This is probably the best video I've seen on flexibility for climbers. Thanks for only including 3 exercises. Nothing less motivating than the "25 crucial stretches for climbers" video 😁
This is quite funny because Matt was my old climbing instructor and he used to always make us stretch and would not let anyone climb with out stretching
I also feel that doing tempo stretches gives the ability for the body to reset each rep as well as learn to move into or out of agile positions in a controlled manner. Sometimes i feel im stretching something but not in the intended/ right way. Rather then actually stretching its pinching somewhere. Performing the stretches using these controlled tempo stretches allow me to repeatedly feel if I'm settling into the right position and how I can move through it, without cramping up.Intuitively I've known this 'in and out' technique for a while but having a proper procedure to refer to as well as your expertise to back it up definitely helps. Thanks for this!
Thanks! Great video. I’m not a climber, but was searching for pancake tips and found this to be great 👍
Great video! This got me hyped. Really cool that you listen to and interact with the community.
VERY useful info. Thanks.
1 critique though, that goes for ALL gym- and stretch specialists on youtube : you guys have no idea what "inflexible" means. Imagine the "before"-guy in the video above, then diminish the angle between his 2 legs to about 60-65° instead of the 90°+ in the video ( because of stiffness in his inner thighs ) , and finally round his back wáy more to the point he can barely avoid falling backwards ( mostly because of stiffness in his hamstrings ). THAT'S inflexible. I should know, I'm one of them... :-)
Yes... I feel you - I'm the same
16:08 This is the content I was waiting for! As also someone who has quite a bit of functional flexibility on the wall but terrible hamstring/lower-back based tightness, it's always such a slog to have to stare at a stopwatch while being incredibly uncomfortable in a stretch position. Tempo stretching plays well to the traditional reps/sets kind of dynamic, while also allowing for easier integration into supersets, which I think a lot of climbers use to save time in their busy lives. Thanks so much!
The concept of interval stretching was new to me and I am already a huge fan! Being able to count reps and treat it as another part of my training regimen is cool, but mostly it honestly just feels more effective for me!
Fantastic information. It is frustrating being inflexible and so difficult to get good advice for inflexible people like me. Thank you !
Great video. I particularly loved the stretch that I get by reaching for my TV remote.
😂😂
Thank you so much! This is exactly the kind of video I was looking for! Flexibility is a part of my training that’s been lacking when compared with strength training and technique since I started climbing a year and a half ago and this is something that I can see myself doing all the time to be the most functional I can be on the wall. Thanks 👍👍
Thank you for creating such thorough videos! I’ve been working on my flexibility since watching the “Aidan's Flexibility Routine” a month ago. I’ve gotten better but this is very helpful to keep my progress going!
this is so great, thank you!!
Thank you for the video, it's very helpful.
Are there any specific recommendations for warming up?
I like to stretch first thing in the morning, but I can't get to end range of motion because I'm not warmed up yet, and I wonder whether these morning stretches are even effective.
Would you suggest alternating between tempo and passive stretches? And if so in the same session or seperate?
I really like to do both. Tempo stretching 1-2x a week when I am in a gym. Then a passive stretching routine on other days, often at home or in my warm-up/cool-down.
This was so well explained; really useful. Thank you!
great video! concept 5 is a real game changer for anyone whos struggling to get started
Cam impingement says no 😔 will try though without pain. Great video, with variations and biomechanical tricks!
i needed this... thank you sir
What advice would you give to keep the new range of motion acquired through those exercices? I'm afraid I'll revert back to inflexibility as soon as I stop...
I've always found more relaxed passive stretching is an easy way to maintain. I like to do this in every warm-up and cool-down, so it does not feel like any added hassle to my schedule.
Thank you for such a useful and informative video.
Would it be appropriate to preform these stretches after a climbing session?
Yes absolutely. Just make sure you've not had a huge climbing session and still have good energy.
Thanks very much. This is really great content and really helpful! 👌🏻
i am going to do all of these!
I think it would have been really good to add a section about timing. Stretching is the bees knees but depending on your goals or training cycle should potentially be implemented timed around sport specific training and resistance training.
Which bouldering pants/trousers you two are using?
Also if you stick your arms out straight on the pancake stretch you increase torque
much better flexibility video, very good work.
Great video! A quick question about the Lat Pull-over. I notice when doing those that it puts quite a load on my neck. Is this something that's just because of my inflexibility and is okay or is this something I should look out for? Cheers!
If you are laying normally on a bench i.e. parallel, it can feel like you need to brace the weight with the neck when offering it behind your head. The fix it to do it on a bench but perpendicular like we did in the video. That way your head is not on the bench and you won't need to push down into the bench. However you'll still need to hold the weight of your head up but this should not be too difficult when you get used to the exercise.
Really loved this one, been stuck on my pancake for a while. All it needs is a box!
Can we please get these stretches and the one's from Aidan's video on Crimpd!
This is great, do you know of any books that outline this sort of thing body wise? I’d like to know more around the pigeon pose, my knee gets quite sore from the pressure in this and it would be great to know how to work up to it. However thing the interaction of muscles and the impacts of stretching one on another would be interesting to hear about
I'm not sure about a comprehensive stretching book but I am sure some exist. I've gained my knowledge bit by bit over many years. We are also working on an online course here, should be released later this year.
Specifically for the pigeon, start with the knee elevated higher than the foot, so your shin is not horizontal but at an easier angle. You can prop up the knee with yoga blocks or cushions. Gradually work towards your normal pigeon over weeks and months by decreasing the angle of the shin.
That’s a spicy thumbnail at a quick glance! Or is my mind just in the gutter?
Get out the gutter Eric
@@LatticeTraining 🤣🤣🫣
Self care to a new level
Thank you!
Amazing video thank you!
Finally ! The problem with flexible people is they don't realize some positions are simply impossible for others, the pancake being the absolute worst for me.
Does he say how many times a week to do these? Cool to do everyday?
I may be wrong here, but, isn't the frog position also used to help to get the feet lift higher? Thus it's if that's the goal then in the frog position one should also kind of push back while in the position? Maybe just totally different exercises though.
What if I can do pancake but not every day I can touch with my belly? Once you do it what can I do? Stay static or do this reps?
Looks good for weight trainers and Yoga practice too.
Will this routine be added to the app?
All the exercises are on the Lattice App. But not sure about Crimpd if that is what you mean. Crimpd is independent from Lattice.
ahaa!
As a new climber I see my biggest weakness now as flexibility. I've worked on finger strength and fitness and do yoga but flexibility is still poor. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the video! When doing the standing pancake, I feel a stretch in my lower leg (don't think it's achilles tendon). Is that normal?
Two tips that may help. First try stretching your calfs with a couple sets before the pancake. Then try to keep a soft bend in the knee, just a small one, when doing your pancake fold.
I can't get my heels to my butt, causing me to push myself out of the wall in some positions. Also it means that it takes a huge amount of energy just to sit on my knees. How can I improve this mobility?
For the pancake/standing pancake, should your knees be locked?
In most cases yes, but a slight bend can be more comfortable for some. See what works best for you.
Regarding the tourque and if you want to apply a maximum torque when stretching: I find it very questionable unless you are are 18 years and have a perfectly healthy body. Otherwise author may want to rethink his recommendations.
I can't even do a standing 5-step width lol
14:35. Do not go as far as this guy. He actually went way past his range of motion and lost the stretch on the lats and held it just by the shoulders
Nice video! Quick question: what's the value of hamstring flex for climbers?
It's most obvious on steep terrain which involves heel hooks and toe hooks. Things where your going for high feet but with a straight leg. If you watch flexible climbers you'll see them use hamstring flexibility a lot. e.g. ruclips.net/video/o-mvzn_QjAQ/видео.htmlsi=Gq289KwWX11gFEVw&t=685
It not only allows more options for movement, it also makes normal movement easier. You have less 'internal' resistance from your own body and movement flows easier with less strength required.
@@LatticeTraining Makes sense, cheers! Thanks too for your service to the community :’)
That first stretch is really painful on my knees! My muscles are tight but some of my joints are hypermoble and I think anything that puts lateral pressure on my knees like that is not going to work for me…
Me too
A collaboration with Emmet Louis would be cool!
Love Emmet. I hope to do one of his workshops one day. I am also hoping to colab with Tom Merrick (who's learned a lot from Emmet) in the future.
To my eyes, Matt is bending mostly at the waist not at the hips. Hip bend is a fundamental element of gaining hip mobility that perhaps he needs to focus on first
Maybe it's just me, but I kinda stared at the thumbnail for a few seconds trying to figure out what's going on there
LOL saaaaame
Is it not so that he is bending at his lower back reachinging for horizontal. Rather then anterior tilting his pelvis to actually target problematic hamstrings?
❤❤❤
Is Matt a cyclist because I have the same trouble with hips and hamstrings
It’s a good thing the thumbnail totally doesn’t look like you are plowing yourself, because that could be embarrassing
Made you look though 😉
Watching this felt like eating vegetables. I ate the whole plate baby.
The question is: Is more torque always optimal during strechting? Or perhaps only for large muscle groups?
Great question! It really depends on what your aim is. If you are doing tempo stretching, having high torque is really important because total time under tension may only be 20-30 seconds. So the intensity of the stretch needs to be high to see progress in range of motion. But we could also do a passive stretch for 90secs to 3mins. In which case torque can be low and we'll benefit from being in a more relaxed position.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the reply!
I got back problems I can't do all that
Back pain is tough, sorry to hear that Jack. It's worth seeing what you can do to address that first including seeing a physio/PT. You don't want it to hold you back from exercise and freedom of movement if at all possible.
That frog position makes me feel like my leg is coming out of the socket. It feel uncomfortable for days at a time
This sounds like it could be an bone impingement problem and it's quite an important one to avoid. Easiest way to avoid it is to opt for a supine frog variation, and secondly really focussing on the anterior tilt of the pelvis when stretching in this position, as it allows for more room between the hip socket and the femur bone. Hope this helps!
Yeah, what I don't like about these videos as well as with most "lattice training videos" is that the exercises are not accessible since they need lots of equipment or other requirements are not satisfied. For example, not everyone has weights at home. Furthermore, most people won't have a wall where they can put their feet on at home unless they want to make the walls dirty.
thumbnail pretty sus
The new "frog pose" should be called "giving birth pose"... I've never seen a frog on its back with its feet against a wall trying to get the wall as dirty as possible to instigate all sorts of conflicts with its roommates. Frogs are not very good climbers, especially because they lack the interest and the internal void that prompts one to replace meaningful relationships and improving the world with progression along made up difficulty scales for going from point A to B in a rock or wooden/plastic wall. We should all aspire to be more like frogs and less like creatures who are birthed in weird positions.
This is really bad and potentially dangerous advise. A group of frogs is called an Army! Therefore if climbers listen to your advise they could group together under different ideological and philosophical dogma. Boulderers will form an Army against Trad climbers, Sport climbers etc. Anarchy will ensue and one climbing discipline will rise to the top with militant rule and overwhelm the media. Claiming that all other climbing disciplines are "not real climbing" and new disciples should only join their faction.
@@LatticeTraining What you fail to see is that a group of frogs can also be called a knot. The connection to climbing is obvious: boats used to assist deep water soloing often cannot surpass 15 knots. What frogs want and do is not anarchy, but anarchism: freedom and mutual aid, leisure and community.
One thing left out of the concept part is the why. Why is this a good exercise? What is it stretching. Sorry. I need pictures. Also, my lower back hurts when I do it so I know I'm stretching the wrong thing.
lol they need to find someone who is actually not flexible