How to change a consumer unit fuse board.18th edition upgrade.
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- Опубликовано: 15 фев 2020
- DIY loft lighting strip out and swapping out an old Wylex fuse wire board for an 18th edition spd rcbo consumer unit.
Took me a while to get this one filmed and chopped together so hope you can show your appreciation by giving it a thumbs up.
INSTAGRAM Cjrelectrical
This video is for entertainment purposes only please do not attempt to copy or recreate this video in any way. If you decide to carry out your own electrical work it is your responsibility.
Always seek professional help and advise. 
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Another excellent informative video. I like how neat your finished job is especially how you manage to tame previously mangled cables and make them look like new.
Fantastic job, Pablo was quick.
I’m an apprentice spark been watching your videos for a while... great quality and very informative👍
Great idea with the holes and fire gromets. Pukka job all round, nice one Chris.
I agree. I would have liked to have seen what he used to drill holes of the correct size inside those pre-scored metal punch puts.
23:41 oooh, you missed one 😱
luv the idea of drilling out the back and using the wiska grommets. always thought they were missing a trick by not doing a rectangular plate that would fit the knockouts on the boards, and have the fire proof stretchy bits on it that would let you pass the cables through.
also, with liability being an issue, the idea of using those 'void if removed' things is growing on me too.
If I could double-like I would. If you get to the end of a set of pairs and you're saying an *odd* number, something's gone wrong. One of number five is loose.
Which is not to say that giving an even count is right but it should be twice the number of breakers (in this sort of setup), or again something's gone wrong.
RCBO No 5...
FYI; you dont need to be registered on a competent person scheme to change a consumer unit. You just need to be competent and notify your LABC or get a 3rd party certifier.
joe b absolutely correct. My local LABC charge an additional £295+vat to get it certified which in my eyes is a lot more money for the customer to find. Where as a registered electrician has already sucked up that cost. Thanks for the comment.
CJR ELECTRICAL if for example you’re building an extension you’d have to pay the building control fee for other works. Our LABC would charge £175 and it would cover all aspects of construction.
Chris B wow your lucky our building control charge separate fees for everything. They just get a contractor on there books to do the electrical testing.
How do you get a 3rd party certifier joe b? I'm thinking of starting up as electrician and this is what I need advice on, cheers.
@@nulldrone6097 With great difficulty so I hear. Alot of electricians dont like doing 3rd party certification because there will more often then not be problems. There also could be a potential loss of work (as they could have done it all themselves). Also, NICEIC do not allow this on their scheme due to the fact that it is undermineing thier registered electricians.
There are some electricians out there that will do it but I expect the costs will often be more then LABC.
I tell ya what Pablo is rapid and also a gent for being on standby for ya! lol
Always nice to have rear entry..!
Another neat looking job mate
"As you can see, the client has kindly cleared the cupboard out for me..." lol
Crabtree device is a voltage operated earth leakage circuit breaker with in and out on the earth and a sense resistor in between. The problem with them was any parallel earth paths on the electrical installation they didn’t operate. Main bonding had to be on the input side and not connected to the c.u. Also that’s why sometimes you come across showers immersion heaters boilers etc with the earth not connected. Excellent videos thanks.
Springs invariably go in them and once they gone they are knackered 😂
Crabtree voltage opperated earth leakage trip, circa 1960's as is the wylex board without the back paxolyn insulator
Love your videos, currently coming to the end of my apprenticeship which has only consisted of industrial/commercial works. Often find myself coming to RUclips to learn more of the domestic side of things, think it would benefit not only myself but many other people in training if you explain a little more to WHY your doing what your doing. regardless keep it up bud!
That’s what I did before I was qualified. Good luck on your journey buddy👍🏼
Hi mate, I've just started my apprenticeship. Did you find any good channels that explained why they're doing what they do ?
Same here!
Those switch covers at 26:08 with edges covered by the vertical architraves -- use a vibrating saw cutter and cut through the covers by the edge of the architraves. Switch covers can them be removed normally (without the cut-off edges).
Thats a voltage operated trip on the the mains, the 2 it works by measuring the potential between the main earth and the consumers earth. old school indeed.
Very good video and nice neat job. Shame you didn’t have several IR neutral to earth issues as I’ve come across on a recent job, id be interested to see an optimal approach to finding the parts of the circuits causing the issue especially as the elderly clients don’t want me to cut open any walls and are not happy for me to move furniture and lift floorboards. I started doing an EICR but came across so many issues with broken rings, incorrect polarity no earth sleepving or grommets etc etc I just started to fix as I went along. They may decide not to have a new board should I say I need to rewire with new cable so will be left with an old 4 way yamex CSU with no RCD protection and signs of overheating on the ring that has all the houses 30 sockets on it. Any advice based on similar experiences would be most appreciated.
Good bit of work mate 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Old Voltage Operated Earth Leakage circuit breaker. The main earth would be taken to one terminal, and the earth rod connected to the other. The trip coil was between the two terminals (labelled E and F). if an earth fault caused the voltage between the two terminals to go over 50 volts the coil would trip the mechanism and disconnect. As others have commented, they have not been recognised as compliant fault protection since a Long time back, but at least it gave a free double pole isolator to make everything dead for the board change.
YES! your back love your vids.
the music at 21 min is what my Indian Restaurant plays non stop when eating there lol
Hi U.S sparky here I find it very interesting how different everything is across the pond would love to have the opportunity to come over and study sometime
Its crazy to see them smaller “consumer units” vers our masive split phase panelboards. CAFI PON has cleaned up the wireways. Even the smallest new home with gas heat these days has a 200a 120/240 board.
@@hvachacker586 We very really use 2 phase systems. These days in the UK it's 230v single phase for domestic and 230v/400v 3 phase in commercial and industrial settings
Watching from the US is interesting. All the equip. is so different than ours. Not to mention wire sizing terminology.
Mate I’ve read through some of the comments from narcissistic people. What makes them set above the rest I don’t know. But I do know a lot more watching your videos enjoy them, and the content. I dare say it phases you. Keep them coming. 👍🏽
Good pun.
A superb job as always Chris well done.may I please ask what is the make of your torque skrewdriver.keep up the great videos and great work sir.well done.
Awesome video nice insight 👌
Great job
Interesting , I can see that you are "just a lad" 😂 The breaker you referred to on the left is Voltage Operated ELCB, I have installed them in Ireland some 50 years ago, it was the latest technology ! They did the job but has at least one" big" fault, if you don't know look John Ward's excellent videos on them. As for the PME terminals if you test you may find there is no connection to it from the supply ! I was amused when you said you can't cut the seals on the supply fuse but you cut the seal on the meter ☘️🇮🇪☘️
I have one kicking about somewhere
I haven’t got a lot of faith in this lad.....doesn’t seem very knowledgable. ...
Michael Tye me think he taketh the piss ,he knows you know !!!!
Michael Tye if you know you know. Don’t ask me just saying.
It looks like a VOELCB, however, all the VOELCB's I have ever come across had an earth terminal and that one does not. Could it be an early COELCB? EDIT: Looking again, it does appear to have a bare earth wire connected, and a black one???
Hi Chris what hole cutter did you use for when you have cut them holes in back of c.u and put the grommets in. Was is a step out bit or an actual hole saw
Nice job 😀👍
Hi mate, great video.
Did you have an issue with opening the suppliers meter, did a tamper switch activate.
I have one myself to do with no isolater installed and power company no help.
Did you do the tails live with no load on
Arh Pablo the main fuse puller lol Most sparks have a spare Pablo in the van ;)
The Crabtree device is a VOELCB, voltage operated electronic circuit breaker. When switched on, an internal coil adds around 100Ohm impedance to the earth, electromagnetically actuating the switch to trip off in the event of a voltage becoming present on the earth. This protects against shorts to the earth conductor, but does not protect against shorts through a person to terra. The device does not detect an imbalance in load between L and N conductors like an RCD.
not seen one of those or an ELCB, for over 30 years.
Fascinating insight into the world of a domestic spark. I think I will stick to being an industrial electrician!! A lot less hassle.
I started out as a EE and did a lot of hands on industrial work before transtioning into software engineering. Over the past several decades I've worked on a lot of residential stuff in Chicago where we have strict codes requiring EMT. As always, if I run into a situation for which I have questions, I've got friends who are certified sparkys. A big problem I always run into on the old places here are the layers of fuckery people have done. My industrial experience has proven invaluable over the years. Something about having giant and expensive machinery with 480 3ph that hones one's focus and discipline to work clean and proper.
Yes a old voltage operated breaker i came across one of the last ones in the late 90s defo a old timer thats for sure
Hey you doing a good job can you do a video of your tools that you use to test electrical
Hello,
Brilliant video.
I just wanted to know which headlight you have in this video please.
Thank you.
Ahmed
Nice job apart from wading through the cupboard contents to get decent access. Any reason why you didn't bring the existing earth cables down the back of the mounting board?. Looks odd.... Yes I know the two main cables run on the front.
Question : had 2 electricians doing different things so a bit confused foe 18th edition consumer box change do we need smoke alarms aswell to be connected ?
How did you exactly disconnect from the mains supply? Were the wires hanging off live when you disconnected them from the meter going into the smaller crabtree RCD??
How come you got James was it work experience or off your own back
Hey Chris. Great video! Is that CU of the ‘Fusebox” brand? If so, can I ask where you buy from?
Flexible and stranded wires fixed to unprotected screw terminals is a no-go. No ferrules at hand?
Like the chip munk function on the fast ffw function
You missed the left hand screw on breaker no.5 @ 23.40 :D
Is that iCertifi software for the reports?
Great content but please keep an eye on the volume difference between clips 👂🏻 💥
What app are you using to log your readings?
I dont know if it's possible the the FUSEBox consumer unit as I haven't seen one and I couldnt tell with the video but other manufacturers have square knockouts on the back with fire resistant blanks to fit in to buy separately where the cables could push through instead of drilling, depends which is easier on site.
Maybe fusebox have something similar
The earth connection on that cut-out is not necessarily a PME one. It could be TN-S. Inside the cut-out is an NE link that can be removed when using on a TN-S supply.
Pablo didn't re-seal the meter, I wouldn't use him again :D
Why did he need Pablo at all? Can't he fit that bit himself? Some reg precluding him or something?
Where does the surge protector wire in to? The bottom of the main switch?
Hello mate,
What’s the program you’re using on he iPad?
Thanks.
Brilliant idea about the DB seals Chris, where did you get them?
I get the thinking behind the tamper sticker but I think it's a bit much to invalid the warranty if the sticker is broken. If another electrician does some fault finding work on one particular circuit, why should the customers warranty for the work on the CU be invalidated because the other electrician's had to break the sticker to work on one circuit.
You’ve missed the point it’s not the fact I won’t guarantee my work.
It’s just I want to know if someone has been in the board after me.
@@Cjrelectrical I know what the point is, I used to do the exact same thing, for the exact same reason, to have visual evidence that somebody's been in the CU after you but when would you need to know this, usually when there some sort of dispute going on about a repair or work that's been done. A broken seal on the CU cover doesn't mean the installation been tampered with, personally I'd like to see tamper stckers over the terminal recess, that way I know exactly what circuits been tampered with. If it's a circut I've worked on and the seal is broken, take it up with the other guy.
I wish that professional tradesmen would moderate their DIY criticisms a bit. Hiring out all home improvement would be financially prohibitive for many people and would likely result in more problems being ignored instead of fixed. One big advantage that homeowners have is the thousands of hours of spare time on their hands. Spending a good chunk of that time learning about their homes and the proper way to make improvements and then tackling some projects isn't bad. Proper DIY can make for more educated homeowners that better appreciate quality, safety, and modernization - and can lead to more work for tradesmen, not less.
Homeowners and DIYers should not touch electric or gas in there property. End of story. Stick to decorating and painting
@@adamsharp201 doesn't matter how you feel about it though. Stick to whining about it to your apprentice in your white van. We don't care
Well said that man, we’re not all millionaires who can afford £300 a day contractors. If you feel competent and you have ability, go for it, just be prepared for the consequences if you bite off more than you can chew.
All 8 breakers have earth leakage integrated. Is this an option for new installations? Also I heard these types consume a few watts of power which adds up over a year. ?
if I have to take that much stuff out a cupboard that the customer knew I needed access to in advance, I just don't put it back when I'm done.
put it in the skip on the way out
Why not? Charge him for the time for it.
Black unit with yellow button is a voltage operated earth trip ELCB.
Hi, what electrical certificate software do you use? Would you be able to do a review on it?
Thanks 👍
Would like to know that too
That software is iCertifi I use the same absolutely fantastic piece of software for iOS devices
Pablo, the man, the myth, the myth, the myth, the myth...
Great job again CJR, Can you come to Wales and Fit my new fuse box??
What vacuum do you use ? Looks like a Nilfisk which I’ve heard can have crappy motors ( shame as I like the Nilfisk brand ) I’m a keen DIYer and after a decent bagged vacuum that I can use with my power tools.
I have owned 2 Nilfisk wet and dry cleaners and both failed just outside the warranty (2 years) Never again.
@@greyman45 Thanks for your reply, it’s a shame the Nilfisk vacuums have weak motors. There jet washers are decent !
In the end I went with a Charles as they are super reliable, spare parts are easy to get, the bags are tough and cheap plus it’s made in the UK 👍
black was used as an earth colour many years ago, that device is the old voltage operated device, the predecessor to the rcd, but they were not the best, and there could be a fault and they would not trip, and obviously now we cant test them to see if they operate.
I see these quite often. One common problem I find is the yellow button does sod all.
I was a spark many years ago, I know my stuff. I’m quite capable of fitting a new CU. How do I get certification?
As you can see they emptied the cupboard for me 🤣 Every board change ever!🤦🏻♂️ I do love the way they always clean out the cupboards and the loft for you when they know you’re going to be in there...
Was that light in the loft held up using blue sleeving?
Blue rope 👍🤦♂️
CJR ELECTRICAL 🤦🏻♂️ Nothing seems to phase me as to what we find in the domestic these days!
You love a back entry
How's the new van Chris?
Great video Chris, which software do you use for certification?
Richard Newton he’s using iCertifi
Lee Butterworth thanks 👍
Seen title and was thinking I might need to go keyboard warrior on you, you proceed to shut me down in the first minute.
which model uni head light you got bud ?, what kind of battery life you getting out of it ?, guessing obviously you've got the, rechargeable one ? , keeps the vids up ! regards Tartan Sparky.
Hi,can you run flexible cable from cu?
That looked like a earth leakage circuit breaker which needed a fixed earth, when the earth leakage voltage reached 50v if I recall correctly, the device operated.
Yes its an ELCB prone to nascence tripping, if they tripped at all
Voltage operated trip, went out of production about 1963 ( ish ). Effective for protection to 50v touch voltage, but no way of testing them. Obsolete, time to go.
Really enjoy these they ae fascinating and appeal to my inner engineer nerd :D One question: What was the Bell Transformer for...?
Door bell
@@Cjrelectrical Ah thanks
Doooohhh>
Also, I thought Bell was the manufacturer, I didn't realise you meant an actual bell :D That would be me....
Where do you get you void seals from?
Which head torch r u using
Hi mate really interesting vids! I'm a trainee, can you please clarify the Ze as I thought max was 0.8 on TN-S? Cheers!
Yes it was 0.25 ohms
Pablo right on time 😉😉😉
Saludos de España
You #Sparkies always do neat works...
What size was them grommets you use in the back of c.u
Very good idea that is
35mm
@@Cjrelectrical do you get you grommets from toolstation
The ones that come in a pack of different sizes
greg davies www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-membrane-cable-entry-kit-10-pcs/4019p
@@Cjrelectrical thanks mate gonna try this out
Out of curiosity how come you didn't use washers when fixing back the CU?
If it was on uneven brick work then I would have but this was a flat surface.
@@Cjrelectrical thanks for the reply 🤙🏻
Did those fire grommets not come out when you pushed various cables in and out? Cheers
They are an extremely tight fit and take considerable effort to install so I’d say there is no chance of them becoming dislodged accidentally.
omg i just p*ssed my self at the "match stick jammed in".....
🤣🤣...when you were torquing the outgoings of the RCBOs, you missed what should have been 10 and ended your count on an odd number.😁😁
Great video. My elderly parents have a fuse board that looks like the old one. What kind of price would I be looking for to have it replaced? Basically I'm asking what kind of fee would be charged for the work done in the video?
Same I’m a level 2 electrician and I’m gonna replace this Board for someone , as this is my first time doing actual work I don’t know how much to quote him , I was thinking 250 so I do his board replace all his sockets and light switches and lighting
Are you part p registered?
Wire nuts give a much larger contact area than Wago connectors.
Which bits do you use for drilling out the back? Obviously confident they're not going to bite and loosen the knockout.
Btw for the blanks, I'm not going to argue with anyone on metal vs plastic slot-ins, but personally I'd buy din-rail blanks from another brank (totally passive item, not going to be an issue) so the busbar isn't exposed from above when someone opens the board up. Looks neater too if they line up with the devices.
P.S. those switches that can't be removed, I've seen examples of that in new builds too. Gone round putting fancy new switches and sockets on then come to that and got one trapped between a doorframe and the corner with another doorframe completely blocking one of the screws. Would it have killed them to use an architrave switch?
22:33 Ooh 'eck the smurfs have landed :-D
Sounds more like Chipmunks...😁
We all know Pablo is James 🤣
"Ring Final Circuit". I roll my eyes every time I hear that 🙄😂
Me 2, Although Ring main is also a term for HV system wiring.
Quick question, if I have a new consumer unit, and then several years later require a rewire, will the consumer unit need to be changed again? namely, if an electrician is rewiring do they always change the consumer unit or can they leave it if they think it is safe and in good condition?
As long as it still complies with bs7671 no problem.
What cert software are you using Chris?
Steven Murphy iCertifi
Time lapse music is very cool any links ?
I thought so too, relaxing for a Sunday
Whats your head light make please?
How where you getting reading for continuity?
Wish I could work as fast as a time lapse
30 seconds in.... smashed that like button :)
Im abit confused reading the comments, Was Pablo a real person who came and in and did the change of Isolator switch or was he a fictional character and the change was done by Chris?
Pablo did it if course, At he charges Chris day rate. I pay him £2.50/hr
Just saw the isolation switch 🤣🤣
19:40 Christ these accessories look like there from the 1960’s 😃
Well yes.... could you not tell that at the beginning of the video just by looking at the fuse board and voltage operated trip?
They are!
I think you will find that it was a voltage operated earth leakage protection device.