Mounting Cameras To Cars With The Tilta Hydra Alien Arm | Review
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- Mounting Cameras To Cars With The Tilta Hydra Alien Arm | Review
First off if you read this.. Leave an 👾 or 👽 in the comments to help me beat this funky algorithm!!
Time Stamps
Intro 00:00 - 00:23
Why/overview 00:23 - 2:00
Installation/ Predator Clamp/ Customisation 2:00 - 4:40
Competition 4:40 - 5:16
Different Uses & Tid Bits 5:16 - 07:06
My Sony A7Siii & Alien Arm set up 07:06 - 9:20
Should you buy one? 9:20 - 10:16
Outro 10:16 - 11:13
So today we takee a look at how to take your car videos to the next level.. When I film car videos recently Ive been using the Tilta Hydra Alien Arm to stabilise my footage.
In this I will walk you through how to rig cameras to cars, what camera gear you need to film cars. You should leave this video knowing more than you do at the start.. if you do.. please give this video a big phat thumbs up & subscribe.. Its super helpful & totally free!!
Also sorry about the magenta/purple tinge in some of the broll.. I filmed some of that while i had the Sony A7Iv & it seems S-cinetone has a slight issue!
K byyyye! 👾 🥸
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Jed THANK YOU for sharing this high quality review! I don’t get why there isn’t slew of videos reviewing this set up…. I shoot alot of stunt riding riding content (motorcycle wheelies) but there isn’t alot of useful information out there to help guys like us using rig set ups like this.
So again, I thank you and appreciate you for creating sharing this video! Subbed! 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Hey! Thanks for the kind words & the sub! Glad it helped! :)
Great Video! Love to see a breakdown of every single component you use from simple D taps to ND filters. I started shooting car films about a year ago and I’m looking to invest but not be left missing critical pieces to make it all smooth! Great video
Hey! Thanks for the comment!
I won’t be making a video like that soon (potentially in the future :)!)
But to help I’ll try list what I use
-Tilta alien arm pro kit (v mount)
- 2x coreswx mini neo 9 v mounts (one for the gimble & one for the monitor)
- kondor blue npf dummy to dtap (to power ninja V from the v mount on the monitor handle) also a usb to usb C cable which powers the joystick handle from the v mount.
- 5 meter Hdmi cable (ninja v to camera) this goes our the car window along the side of the car and into the camera (try secure where possible.
- the monitor + app on iPhone to control A7Siii camera settings via wifi.
- DJI rs2 (powered by vmount & the supplied powered baseplate that comes in the prokit)
The kit comes with necessary cabling to operate via the vmount plates & the wireless control of the joystick.
You can always scrap the monitor & wireless control part & use a PlayStation controller & the monitor plus app as a cheaper alternative!
Hope some of that helps! :)
If you’ve got more questions let me know! :)
Just picked up the Hydra Arm and this video is coming in clutch! Appreciate the tips
Brilliant! Thanks for checking out the channel, I’ve been watching yours for ages! Nice to be able to give back! 😊
Great video mate. I've been wanting one of these for years haha. Have you had any cop encounters while using this? That's the only thing that stops me from shooting this type of stuff more often 😅
Hey, yeah they’re pretty handy units!
No cop encounters for me, just make sure I go through the right channels to make them aware of what’s happening & normally all good to get a permit etc. :)
Hey Jed! Great video!
How does it work with road rules in Aus? Would it be something I’d be able to use in the city?
Yo! Yeah with clearance from sapol your good to go!
@@JedDobre Cool! Might need your expertise soon!
Ive neem using my rig for about a year now, in Victoria, in the city and everywhere around the city, passed police and so far 0 issues
Thanks for the informative real world video, JED! Does the arm work upside down to get the camera higher or do you really just need to be using a taller vehicle to mount the system too?
That’s for watching! Glad it helped! I’ve never tried it that way.. although I think I’ve seen someone do it before on RUclips or ig .. I would imagine it wouldn’t be as stable. I think in the standard position gravity will aid the stabilisation more.. (I could be wrong).
If you want to get higher, using speed rail isn’t of the dovetails to build your mount higher is probably going to be the best option (and more stable). You’d need to use the predator clamp to attach the arm!
@@JedDobre Cool deal. Thanks for the advice. Ordered one today for $300 OFF during a Deal Zone sale. Looking forward to putting it to the test for my upcoming shoots for Trans Am Worldwide. Thanks man!
Awesome dude! Enjoy hope the shoot goes well! Send me a link when it’s done!
@@JedDobre Will do.
One of the first videos I’ve seen with counter wait. I’m using the same cam and lens. How much counter weight did you use that tilta provided?
From memory there was 3 counterweights provided in the pro kit.. I think i typically used 2 of them. (All same weight) I thought was 100% necessary in getting the most stable shot!
I recently sold this arm so can’t check the exact specifics for you but pretty sure 3 are provided in the pro kit! :)
@@JedDobre thanks for the quick response bro. I think I saw in your video you put the weights in the center?
@@JedDobre and I’m assuming you got the other brand instead?
I’m currently between car rigs at the moment. My client work in that space dried up unfortunately & that’s why I sold late last year. Although I’m currently in talks that may require me to get another one 🤦🏼♂️ haha.
Looking at 4:08 in the video looks like there’s actually 6 counter weights! You’ll be able to see how they’re mounted if you pause there!
Nice no nonsense information. I have the hydra arm and still getting some issues. Will be looking at tests again based on some of this information.
Thanks my guy! What issues are you having?
@@JedDobre Some real bad micro vibrations. Whether with the arm or on the isolator only. Ive got the soft spring now too but the same issues. Sample here . ruclips.net/user/shortsUIISm21LVu8
What lens is that? Looks fairly zoomed. That may be the issue. Any time you use a Tele photo it’ll magnify any jitters.
What camera & lens combo you using?
@@JedDobre Good eye. Thats a RF70-200 at 70mm. Using the R5 with ibis off. To be honest its similar with a 17-40 lens. Going to do some more testing this week with the R5 +17-40mm and the soft spring isolator. Swapped out the standard attacment for the camera to gimble with a wider plate that spreads the load. Hopefully will get some better footage. Maybe some additional weight on the arm too.
If you’ve got a 24-70 that may work better at 70mm just due to the the shape & balance of the lens! Or even the 17-40 at 40mm in 8k crop into 4K at 80mm ish. The gimbal wont have to work as hard so in theory that shouuuuld equal better stabilisation.
One thing I can do with the Sony is use gyro data also if need be. Not sure if the R5 has that or not (might be coming in that firmware update thats rumoured).
Might be worth giving the ibis a go seeing what that looks like.. & turn the IS on in lens if your 70-200 is stabilised!
Try every combo & see what you think works best.
Hey mate great vid. I have the same setup but I ran into a weird issue with it. Once I loaded everything up and wanted to adjust the spring with the knob, the knob got stuck and I can only move it slight either + or - Any thought on why this is?
Hey, thank you very much :)
So weirdly enough this happened to me recently. I thought I broke it & tried everything to un do it.
I didn’t use it for a few months & just left it in its box.. I opened it up determined to pull it apart & fix it.. I thought I’ll give it one last try & it came loose & now works as it should!
I’m going to assume.. probably the same in my case is that maybe when tightened with the load on the arm.. it pinched in one of the threads perhaps? Maybe it just needed a bit of encouragement to slip back where it should be!
Good luck! :)
@@JedDobre Thanks mate, I thought it was only me. The exact same thing happened when I bought it, I took it back and they gave me a new spring arm but now the same thing happened again. I think you are right tho. Because the thread is so fine on the adjuster, for the fine adjustments it’s easy to cross thread I think. I’ll give it a crack and let you k ow how I go.
Yeah I think that must be it!
Perhaps (probably what we both didn’t do initially) when we tighten or losen we may need to take the weight off the arm by having someone hold the gimble portion raised so when we tighten the thread goes straighter etc!
Yeah let me know how you go :)
Hi Jed!
I have quite an embarassing issue I think due to the stiffness of original steel wired part what comes with the Hydra. When the car hits a pothole, or just simply driving on gravel there's a wobble on the picture. I tried to figure it out what causes the problem and I think it's the steel wired part. Have you met this problem yet? Warp stabilizer ain't help.
Thanks for the video!
Gábor
I havnt modified mine.. but I’ve seen people
Modify their wire to longer/softer wire which give a bit of side to side isolation which should help. Other wise mounting to a speed rail via the predator clamp should help.
Ideally if you can avoid the pot hole that would help too haha! (I know that’s not always possible :) )
Good luck if you try to modify it!
why not an 👾 AND 👽?
I have one of these ! They have the new shock absorber it does seem a lot better ! I don’t suppose you can give me the specs for the monitor setup and controller ? I’ve been considering getting the dji transmission setup but it’s very expensive ! Great content
The controller was the one that comes in the pro kit from tilta. Then I just used a 5m hdmi to connect camera to ninja v. that way you can trigger the recording from the car too!
The DJI system isn’t cheap but it’s fantastic!
DING! oh hang on I think I might of been one of your first subscribers! "one of"!!!
Yeow!
You spend a lot of time with your hat on the wrong way.
If I put it on that way.. it’s the right way! 😂😉
So you say....
😂😂