Artillery Sidewinder X2 DESTROYS The Competition
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2022
- In case you needed another Reason not to Buy an Ender 3...
Purchase Links (Affiliate):
USA: bit.ly/3dAqNmc
EUR: bit.ly/3QHOJlB
UK: bit.ly/3C5EpQp
Coupon code: NNNNBRARTX2
Price: $261.85
Artillery Sidewinder X2 on Amazon: amzn.to/3QFrskZ
To fix underextrusion, add this one line to your start GCODE in your slicer:
M92 E444
Or try running this gcode file:
www.patreon.com/posts/underex...
Special Thanks to GeekBuying for providing this printer for review:
affiliate.geekbuying.com/gkba...
This is one of the best Ender 3 alternatives on the market.
Support me on Patreon! / nathanbuildsrobots
Chat with me on Discord! / discord 
Наука
Thanks for this video and the GCODE advice. I was looking at the E3 S1 PRO due to the 300 degrees celsius nozzle temperature but then again I wouldn't be doing carbon fiber nylon that often. Great job !
Thank you for publishing a thorough and honest review. This has helped me greatly as I look for my next printer.
Just ordered my first printer through your link. So excited. Thanks so much!
Im waiting sidewinder x3 pro-plus rewiews from you! Thanks for video.
Very solid insights! Please keep making videos!
A good upgrade I did to my sidewinder was adding aluminum supports that attach to the sides near the back of the printer and go up and help brace the top where the spool sits. I used aluminum but id recommend using steel as its heavier and will help reduce vibrations, I'm getting ready to upgrade my bracers to steel.
Thank you for the super educational review! This printer looks great!
I have the X1 and an still happy with it. Good to know they are getting b even better
Artillery does so many things right. They still don't like me after I botched their Artillery hornet review. That thing was actually really nice, but I thought it sucked. The bowden setup on it is so good it performs with near direct-drive retraction lengths. So I gave it a bad review. Then a week later someone told me to try lowering the retractions, and it had amazing print quality. I felt dumb, but that is part of the 3d printing experience!
I found the following settings best: 220 degrees extruder 65 degrees bed a light coat of hairspray. And DONT FORGET .To enable compensation for auto-leveling, add M420 S1 Z10 after
G28 in starting Gcode
Where and how do I enter these settings
@@rockman49erwhen you go into cura hit settings then go to printer then add printer then printer settings and you should see the command line window on the bottom. You can also look up how to do it as well is you’re more of a visual person but it’s super simple in cura.
Great review and thanks for your time !!
Hi Nathan! Congrats on your channel it´s really full of greats reviews! I have a question if you ll be williing to help me with. I want to buy an Artillery Sidewinder but also a Clay Extruder KIT from Tronxy so that i can add-on it to the Artillery.....you think thats possible? what would you recommend ? buying two separates printers? or doing the trick to have 2 in 1 ·D printer (PLA and Clay) ? Thank you for your advice!
Glad to see that the Sidewinder x2 hasn't been forgotten . I enjoy mine . I've only had issues with the bed level
on mine (more often than I should) .
Interesting, I wonder if you can replace it with a BL-TOUCH
I picked up 2 SW replacement bed levelers and am now on the last one , when/if that fails I will use the BL touch . Thank you for the reply
@@bloodyfinger5 did you fix your bed level issues? I haven’t been able to get a consistently good print and Geekbuying support is giving me the run around :/
@@johngomez900 Not really , other than what I mentioned .
I do have a BL-touch that I bought during a sale that I foresee myself using .
I'll be sticking with Creality for better or worse from now on .
Good Luck
@@johngomez900 something that helped me after Months of not being able to get the bed to level properly..make sure your Saving to the Eprom after it Auto bedlevels ( after you manually leveled the bed.!) Also I upgraded the Springs on the level wheels to Solid Silicone Spacers you level, 1x and you don't have to touch it again! like 7 to 10 bucks on amazon.
can you tell me what you set your Z-HOP retraction setting too to prevent any layer shifting
3:59
You have to manually add the following in Gcode in Cura, under G28:
M420 S1 Z10
That way, the Cura file will ask the printer for the auto-leveling data you calibrated (if you don't add that command, the leveling you did on the printer will be useless)
The Z10 command indicates that the printer maintains the leveling data for the first 10 mm of printing, if you want it to maintain it for 20 mm, enter Z20.
If you set Z0, it will maintain the auto-leveling setting throughout the entire print of the object.
I like the design and manufacturing analysis side notes..
Well...thanks to your OTHER detailed video about the Ender 3 S1...I ordered it earlier today BUT then I ran across THIS video and I was convinced this was the better printer and at a better price so thank you...sending the Ender 3 back when it gets here...
Nice, this is a much better value. The Ender 3 S1 has more room for modding, but this one works better out of the box IMO, and is cheaper.
Came from your comment linking this on the Creality Ender 5 S1 video. Can the volcano head be replaced with a “more detailed” hothead, or is it a part of the extruder? I haven’t messed with printing in many years and I want to learn more! This seems like it’d hit what I want pretty well. I don’t mind paying extra where it counts, like in the complaints you voices.
I used your link. Thanks for the deal!
Ironically the lower end creality machines are the better than the newer high-end ones. they're easier to fix out of the box.
Looks like a nice printer.
Makes sense really, simpler machine simple to fix, you would have to spend about another 100 to 200+ bucks to get Cheaper Ender style and then Upgrade it to do what this machine can do. That why everybody Starts at an Ender and then quickly moves up to a bigger and better machine.
Great review!
Another awesome video! You can use a G4 S### on your start gcode to give it a specified time to heat the bed more evenly before start printing. I would jump on this machine hands down if the z gantry was shorter for people with prints farms and printers on racks. Another thing I am concerned about, is there a thermal fuse on the AC bed?
I'm not sure about the fuse situation. I assume it has one, but I haven't actually checked.
Just go with the Genius Pro.
Yes, it has.
You saved me from getting a ender-3 s1. Definitely deserved the sub
The original S1 I have works pretty well, but I have put some mods on it. New part cooling fan, new heater block, new spring steel bed, and nozzle. It's working pretty nicely now.
The S1 Plus is the real problem child, it won't even level the bed so I'm waiting on a fix from Creality 😞
Eventually I'll just turn it into a Klipper machine if they can't come out with a fix for it, but it's far from ideal.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'm trying to upgrade from and E3 pro, im looking for something in the $450 and below price range cause everything is on sale. Any suggestions aside from the sidewinder (I like that one a lot)
@@gabrielmcanuff2206 I like the aquila of trying to spend as close to $0 as possible. You save a bunch of $ and have a huge budget for upgrades of you feel like doing a lot of tinkering.
I liked the longer LK5, but the Sidewinder is only a little more expensive and has a lot more features so I'd still pick the Sidewinder over it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'll look into those. Keep up the good work!
@@NathanBuildsRobots when does the coupon code on the description expire?
I like everything I'm seeing on this thing. I have one in for review but I havent had a chance to unbox yet. Impressive.
Dooo it! My only gripe about Artillery printers is, at least on the Artillery Hornet I reviewed prior, is that flashing the firmware takes a couple more steps. You have to download some software from STM, and plug a jumper into the mainboard. Then hook up over USB and send the firmware.
But if you just want to print and do light modding, you shouldn't need to flash firmware. So for the target audience I think it's a non-issue.
Dual drive gear extruder would have been nice, but or the price and size, it's hard to complain.
Its direct drive and has auto bed-leveling, which make a bigger difference than the dual gear.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah, I dig it...and your new wall! ;)
What would you upgrade ? I saw a youtube video someone added a voron printhead to it. :)
Is it a problem it's lacking belt tensioners?
Belt tensioners are overrated IMO. I've never adjusted the belt tension of my machines, except for during initial setup, but then again, I'm not printing 24/7. On this machine you loosen a bolt, pull on the pulley, and retighten, only takes 30 seconds.
Hey Nathan! Awesome video, I picked up a X2 after this video and having problems with bed leveling, I level the bed following the instructions and set the z offset but it seems like every time I try to print the z offset is stored higher than what I set to. Any suggestions? And do you know how to stop mid print? It seems like the printer doesn’t recognize the stop command in g code. Thanks!
That is an issue someone pointed out to me after the review. I don't do color changes so it didn't occur to me to test it out. I'll look into 3rd party firmware. I'm planning on doing some light modding on this machine, so I'll look at changing the extruder and seeing if there's any 3rd party firmware out there. Will also ask my contact at Artillery about this.
I did not have any issues with bed leveling, you may have to calibrate the z probe offset. Have you tried that yet?
This looks promising, will check it out in a future video
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186707
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the reply! I actually wasn’t intending on stopping for color changes but rather to cancel failed prints.
Update: it was cancelling prints it was just taking longer than I had experienced on other printers
I am leveling corners, then setting z offset, then bed level, and saving to EEPROM. And in the gcode, I use M420 S1 Z10 as I had seen that suggested to others but the nozzle is scraping and I'm not getting good bed adhesion.
@@NathanBuildsRobots if I buy this machine will it come with the firmware update it already or do I have to do this also also does CURA recognize this printer ?
I'm looking for a good high detail printer, and this one looks like it might fit the bill, but you mentioned that the volcano hot end is not so good for said detail. Can it be ran at a slower speed a slightly lower temp to get the better detail, or can it be swapped out for a different hot end to get the detail? I'm also thinking of using a .2 or even a .1mm nozzle, if possible. I know this will greatly increase print times, but if I can get that fine detail, i'm ok with waiting extra time for a print.
Yes, the same tricks of lowering temp and decreasing nozzle size will help, but there is an inherent advantage to using a smaller melt zone, and if all you're going for is small details, there are better options out there.
Prusa I3 mk3S would be nice, also the Ender 3 S1 would probably be better for this specific application.
The large bed will also be working against you for small prints, as the bed is heavier and will require more power to heat.
There is a smaller version of the printer, called the Artillery Genius. You could get that and put a standard sized hotend on there and it would probably be great for your application.
Also, you can upgrade to a BondTech LGX extruder, which comes with a new hotend for about $200. I just bought one and have been playing with it. Quite spendy, but it would probably be one of the best setups out there.
I have another video called hotends 101 which has some good info on the pros and cons of volcano.
ruclips.net/video/loqkTc0o_Rs/видео.html
This looks like a good all-around machine, but how is the moddability, can the extruder upgraded easily or the hot end swapped? Kinda difficult to decide between this and Ender V2 Neo, they seem to be like polar opposites (hackability vs features).
Yeah that is the trade off. If you don’t plan on modding, this is hands down a better printer out of the box.
If you want to hack and mod, it’s hard to beat the Ender lineup
Hey man, what would you recommend the SWx2 or the creality S1? They're both within the same sort of budget but if you HAD to pick one which would be the better option?
I would pick the Artillery Sidewinder. Check the Geekbuying link in the video description - the Artillery is about $100 less than the Ender 3 s1.
The Ender 3s are project printers. If you like working on the printer and customizing it, you might like it. But once you factor in all of the upgrades, the Ender 3 S1 ends up costing an extra $100.
@@NathanBuildsRobots awesome good stuff man thank you, yeah I've heavily modded an ender 3 v2 to the poijts it's barely even an ender anymore but these days I don't have as much time to tinker so I figured the X2 would be the better choice
Great review, thanks!
What is the benefit of using a 0.4 nozzle as a 0.6? Why not just use a 0.6?
You can alternate between the 2 sizes without having to do a nozzle change. It's a nice trick for lazy people.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks, nice one
I know this is late,but is this any good for detail? I’d like to make custom lego pieces, and am considering buying a Artillery SW-x2. Would this work for what I want?
Most all printers have the same level of detail when printing. The biggest factor is nozzle size and print speed. Turn the speed down to have the details come through more clearly.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks, ya earned your like
You can try a 0.2 mm nozzle if you need more detail.
Is it possible to swap out the hot end for a "standard" non-volcano hot end? Or would you have to use a whole new extruder hot end kit?
That is a good question. I will have to look at that more closely. I have some mods planned for this machine.
To answer your question though, it looks like it would be more trouble than it's worth, unless you made a special heatbreak that was longer, so the same spacing was maintained.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks for the reply! I appreciate your videos because they're informative and funny. I might not fully understand everything you're talking about at this point but I'm getting there. Right now I think this X2 is going to be my first project.
@@dwarrenmsp nice, it's a good starting point
This sidewinder looks amazing! But I would be happy to take that S1 off your hands ;)
I just got the S1 working. Kind of annoying to have to fix printers straight out of the box!
@@NathanBuildsRobots very much agree
They have fixed the issues with the S1. Plugs on the ribbons (not just direct inserts, which were unreliable). Reel holder (had to adjust width to match reel) Z axis sensor (which was not always repeatable) rear bed power cable (which stuck out and increased the depth- a lot) and auto bed level. Think I will upgrade...
These machines aren't exactly comparable. Artillery is significatly queieter, has a larger build volume, and is less than half the price. Plus you don't have to be on the cloud here, privacy is an advantage IMO.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I was comparing the Artillery Sidewinder X1 with the Artillery Sidewinder X2. Hence my list of fixes.
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Oh, my bad. You typed S1, but I thought you were talking about the P1P. Misunderstandings all around. Yeah good points, I didn't try the X1, but this seems to be a very well rounded machine.
So.. If you had to keep one, your Sidewinder X2 or your Ender 3 S1 Pro.. Which way would you go?
Let me put it this way... i severed the hotend cable on my Ender 3 S1 Pro because Mr Clicky needed it, and I don't feel any remorse.
I see that for the UK market the hotplate is 220volt and 500watts....that will be super quick to get to working temp.
Almost too quick!
You could cook with it!
@@NathanBuildsRobots Well,an omelette between prints sounds cool
You should have been waking up from next to it 😅 that was funny
I cant do the same gag every time! but I promise I'll do it again in another video, just for you.
Can you get a hot end that will handle high temp .?
Yeah, I’d upgrade to a CHC pro with all metal heatbreak, then it would need new firmware to increase the max temperature. All in it would require about $50 in parts and an afternoon of messing with firmware.
Ive been reading problems with bed level? Shouldn’t that reason to not recommend this? Btw im total beginner
Haven't experiments that myself, but I'd just replace it with a CR-Touch if I had any issues. This machine is so cheap that even with that cost factored in, it's still much cheaper than anything else.
But I've printed over 100 parts and have had no issues
Can I get a link to that push dagger stl?
www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/Push+Dagger/
To be honest... Low speed Z Axis is due to layer speed printing witch are usually long... They are good enough. Would not call it a con.
You could instead, test if on this x2 printer speed 150mm/s and show a quality of print.
As well like print tiny obj and see quality of it.
A single extruder is very cheap to switch to double and u could mention that too.
This printer looks good on paper and now it's for 250 dollars
It's only a con when you have to do a lot of Z travel, like during bed probing and if Z hop on retraction is enabled.
If you have it set up without those settings, you wouldn't notice the lower Z speed all that often.
Do you still like this machine how’s it giving you any problems well I like this one did they do the update already or do I have to do the update ? Also does CURA recognize this printer ???
I use the built-in profile in PrusaSlicer. Its still going strong, planning on upgrading it soon. I've been using it as my main printer and have printed over 100 objects with it so far.
Not sure if you got the creality working, if you didn't it's your bed level, it's to far out for the auto level to work
Bed level was dead even, it was a firmware or motherboard bug. Swapped out motherboards and it's working now
Everyone is so obsessed with noise I find it funny
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autism_spectrum
@@NathanBuildsRobots don't know what that's supposed to mean I just find the noise simply not a big deal Machines make noise .That's all
@@charlesrestivo870 Oh, its just that people with autism can be especially sensitive to noises. There could be a correlation.
@@NathanBuildsRobots have no idea what your talking about .The whole noise thing is consistently mentioned that's what l mean and I find it overblown What autism has in common with the comment of a noisey printer and my comment that is seems overdone . MAKES no sense but be well enjoy the noise means your ears are working .
Just bought one my first printer
Nice, it’s a great value printer
its bed heat distribution is unbalanced. but is this a problem?
Someone said to add a wait timer at the begin GCode, so it will pause before beginning the print.
It was really only an issue when I pushed a print all the way to the corner of the bed. You're kind of asking for trouble printing in that area. When I backed up a bit from the very edge of the bed corners, I didn't have any issues.
I just happen to have a X2 and a ender3s1 pro the same time too, i gotta say the x2 worked fine for like 3 months then a lot of problems start surfacing; the abl sensor was ill designed and require adjustment from time to time, the UI is just complete trash without an easy pathway for basic functions like preheating, and the dual Z motor went out of sync somehow and i had to manully adjust them using a vernir caliper which is a pain in the ass.
i want to buy a 3d printer for max 500 euro. which one would you recommend?
The Artillery Sidewinder and the Ender 3 S1 are my favorites that I've tried.
Both come with auto bed leveling and a direct drive extruder, which you should expect at that price point.
Main differences are that the Artillery is quieter and has a bigger build area
The Ender 3 S1 has a larger modding community, and a nicer extruder.
The bed surface is different too, but I liked them both so I can't say one is better than the other.
Im waiting for a Chinese printer to launch with all high end branded parts, like dual independent leadscrews or a belted Z axis, Super Pinda for levelling, 400X400 bed with textured PEI that is fixed so no screws and springs, high temp high flow hotend and a Bondtech BMG extruder, high quality linear rails an Octopus board or a Open source Duet, SBC board for Octoprint and a second SBC and 7 or 10 inch touchscreen for running a browser so you can use the Octoprint GUI instead of having to make do with Octodash or Octoprint, that way you get the better GUI and can run all the plugins, many people upgrade their printer to this spec so why dont the manufacturers release a machine that already has this done, the first to do this is onto a winner, there are enough budget printers on the market, time to step up!
How much would that printer cost?
I might be getting a super cheap Klipper printer pretty soon. Basic cheap build with Klipper UI under 300, what do you think?
@@NathanBuildsRobots I think there are too many budget machines on the market, I want something in the £800 -£1200, $1000-$1500 range with all quality parts, I already have a Core XY, I built a Pro 3D V-King 400 but I dont use Klipper I have a Duet 3 running RepRap and Octoprint with all self sourced best quality parts and the difference is amazing once I got it all running how I wanted it it just continues to work perfectly unlike my Creality machines that always need attention. But I am printerless at the moment as I am working away from home in the Netherlands and it seems as though I could be here for some time so I just ordered a Kingroon KP3S Pro as I miss my machines so much.
@@NathanBuildsRobots A LOT. basic cost of a Voron 2.4 BOM like the OP outlines is north of $K in parts.
@@NathanBuildsRobots did you ever get the under $300 klipper printer? I haven't seen anything about it. Who makes it?
@@jeffreyepiscopo yes, it's the Buqu hurakan. It's quite good, I just set it up last weekend and have been testing it.
Unfortunately it's closer to 400. Hopefully they drop the price soon. I imagine it will go on sale around $300 eventually.
I think there is a lot of demand for it because there really isn't anything like it on the market right now. Even at its current price I think it's worth it.
can it print nylon filaments?
It has a ptfe lined hotend, you won't be able to go above 240C. As such it can only do low temperature nylons.
Come to think of it, I would like to upgrade this machine to have a direct-drive all metal hotend. Will have to do a follow-up modding video.
@@NathanBuildsRobots cool! looking forward to it
Great review. Would you rate this higher than the Ender 3 S1 Pro?
I like the Ender 3 S1 more than the S1 pro. This one is bigger and a little easier to use, but Ender 3s always have more aftermarket support for mods. So it depends on what you're after
@@NathanBuildsRobots first time at 3d printing so yes, ease of use is my primary goal to get started. Cheers mate.
The Ender 3 S1 plus is not the competitor to this machine, the CR10sProV2 is.
I would agree with that actually. Which makes the price disparity even greater. The CR10 has the issue of no direct drive extruder. I just posted a video on the Ender 3 Plus. It is solidly "OK"
stock cooling is shit anything that u printed didnt had proper overhangs to show you that
their quality control is garbage , the printer is ok wouldnt say its much better than anything else there
had x1 with bent lead out of the box sent it back, bought x2 it had faulty probe out of the box and extruder gear of bad quality making it too tight with the shell eventually killed extruder motor
Part cooling is better than an Ender 3 (i know, its not saying much). Its easy to use out of the box, which was refreshing, because the last 2 things I've unboxed has serious quality issues that are delaying a proper review.
@@NathanBuildsRobots ender 3 is the bottom of the market , they are not horrible often like with many printers they just need proper squaring and dialing in , none of them really work out of the box, the only one that kinda is that bamboolab x1 although im kinda skeptical with their firmware and glitches that reported , rather build ratrig
Looks no different than the Ender S1 Pro. A little bigger area for printing, but that's about it. I was printing with my S1 right out the box. Sorry to hear about all the problems you are facing, that's not been my experience with the S1.
My S1 and S1 Pro are working pretty well, but I'm having issues on my S1 Plus.
I think they used a different chip, or haven't sorted out the firmware yet for the plus.
@@NathanBuildsRobots You might be on to something. More investigation is needed 🧐🤣
I do not recommend this product !!
I bought one، but and after a few days of use, the motherboard started malfunctioning
I was about to pull the plug on this purchase, and then I started to read thoroughly through the Amazon reviews.
I decided against purchasing this machine because of the large amounts of problems it was having and bad customer support.
first
Last
Hypocrisy at its finest. Complaining about the other company's cost-cutting measures and in the same sentence praising a printer that comes with a gantry in part made of plastic and no filament in the box. Also, who cares how fast the Z axis is when 99% of the movement happens on X and Y? And sure, it's a really quiet printer when you're running it at 1/3 of a normal speed, way to make it look good on camera!
Yes and yes, It's a nice printer. Not the most moddable, but it's the cheapest 300x300 printer that prints nicely and doesn't need upgrades out of the box.
@@NathanBuildsRobots If that's the case then let the printer sell itself. Don't sugar-coat its shortcomings and don't misrepresent it in any way. There are some very obvious issues with it that you make no mention of even though you're clearly an experienced user. You should never leave yourself open to your integrity or motivations being suspect, because you'll never win that trust back.