I have discovered it too, that the temperature on the print bed, for all my printers (3) is not what it has been set to in reality. That's why I bought a heating (silicon) element from Keenovo, with its own thermostat, and built my own bed. And I now have close to 95% correct temp in relation to what I have requested.
Ha amazing review, i bought this for $250 and am so hlad i did. It is great to know the heat bleed below the bed which looks sixable because its where the glass gets connected at each corners adjustment spring. I truely love this machine even though ive only had it 2 weeks. It gave me access to printing anything i want. As a mushroom grower this means i can print hingest, ducting, handles, switch casings, vent filters and fan adapters. I can cut off so many expensive parts because now i can print them. I just finished printing a mini computer case and now i am working on duct flanges. It isnt perfect, and i learned while using programs like prusa that temp is everything, but as things get dialed in and my 1" xps foam print case gets assembled, i will be able to run my business on flat 4x8 panels of foam and plastic with printed parts, making me adaptable to the changing financial future of being a viable business. For example i used to have to buy used squirrel blowers on hepa filters that were used for rat experiments in labs, with proprietary filters that cost hundreds, now i can buy a 1ftx1ft hepa and print the flange to attach it to my mushroom lab, for $100 plus filament. Its insane the amount of hours ive spent looking at products that are not for mushroom production but are similar to fit me needs, now i can just print it with fusion 360
Great review! I have been wanting to get a large bed printer to print helmets, like the Mandalorian helmet, in one go. Was considering a CR10, Ender 3 S1 Plus, or Anycubic Kobra Max/Plus, but I think the Sidewinder X2 will be my pick. Looks like a fantastic printer.
I've had my X2 for a year now, putting in the all-metal hotend with .6mm steel nozzle right from the get go. No major issues, though the LCD did die on my twice (probably not Artillery 3D's fault, more of me being in a lightning prone area). Had one LCD replaced under warranty (Artillery 3D's customer service has been superb in my experience, they even sent me replacement Ruby and motor boards as well) and got another from a local shop. Been happily printing PLA+, Silk PLA, TPU, PC, PC-CF and PA6-CF before recently updated to Artillery 3D's all-metal hotend firmware to enable 300C at the hotend. Very happy! But since @RickyImpey came out with the Sonic Pad guides, I'll be running that with the X2 soon (once my local shop has it in stock). Would be nice to print faster with the X2 until I could afford Bambu Labs' X1Carbon, though the X2 will remain as part of the team. 😃😃😃
@@Hanzi2u there are quite a number of video tutorials on YT. One of them which I find useful is the guide in Artillery 3D's official channel. Hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/4MEzFaZPUKY/видео.html
It's great, a couple of negatives but print quality is really good which is the main thing. I'm also working on some ideas to improve the heat spread across the bed to make bed adhesion a bit more consistent too.
I’m sick to my stomach of fixing and modding my cheapo Creality and AnyCubic printers. It was fun when I was just starting and helped me learn a lot of 3DP in general but my hobby is making robots not fixing my printers! I think this will be my next printer and your review convinced me.
Mine has proven to be reliable so far. I haven't done a PID tune, e-steps or had to fix anything. I have added a Two trees PEI magnetic bed which has sorted the issue the uneven AC heating caused. I still really like it.
@@RickyImpey Yeah would love to know too, thanks! I can only find the one with the adhesive magnetic layer, but Im not sure about how it would improve the issue with the bad heat spreading
@@atzeschratze4199 This video has the PEI beds I've used in the description. I do use an adhesive mag one and it seems better for heat spread ruclips.net/video/7kC4DghTW7o/видео.html
I have the Sidewinder X2 and love this fast & quiet 3d printer. I am seriously considering a second one since this X2 printer is so much easier than the Ultimaker 2 & 3 models. There have been ZERO problems getting objects to stick & release from the bed, provided you select the proper Brim or Raft at start, and let the bed fully cool. And, I never use glue sticks! In Cura 4.13 slicer, there was no need to manually add any codes if Sidewinder X1 profile is selected. There was no X2 profile. This is just a great 3D printer that simply keep working, with no need to fiddle and treak stuff.
Thanks for your comment. If you're thinking of getting another one, there is and extra $20 discount currently with the Geekbuying link and using my code👍
@@euroriderdk Geekbuying keep me up to date with new codes. We always try to keep the discounts available as long as possible. Hope you enjoy your new printer, I still really highly rate it compared to everything else I have👍 Enjoy
We are buying one for our Assistive Technology service and I'm really looking forward to pumping out some keyguards , various gripping tools, adapted cultery and alternative gaming controller gear.
There is a usb plug that angles 90 degrees and you plug your usb into the cable attached to it so that you don't have that sticking up. I've broken 2 ports on my X1...
I chose this as my first 3D printer. Other than something like the bamboo lab printer I'm really not sure why anyone would choose much of anything else considering the build volume in more expensive printers (like the bamboo) are much smaller. Maybe if a company like bamboo labs makes an XL version id consider it for the faster print speeds and more premium build, but I really see so few cons with this printer. No wonder it out of stock everywhere :(.
@@RickyImpey I’m looking for my second printer would you recommend this or the Creality Ender3 max neo? Or something else possibly? I like everything I’ve heard about the sidewinder over the creality except the not being able to change the bed. Was it hard fitting a pei sheet? I’ve never added one to my fokoos Odin f3. TIA
@@Truckinitup26 Hi, I haven't got any experience of the other printers you've mentioned but fitting the PEI bed is very easy, it's a self-adhesive magnetic material that you just peel the back off and stick on. I haven't really changed my mind about anything on the X2. I really like it but it does feel a little rattly compared to my Ender 3 S1 Pro.
@@RickyImpey Did you just stuck the magnetic sheet to the glass bed of the printer or did you do you it in another way? Thanks for the review, it helped a lot!
Hi Ricky, With the Sidewinder X2, have you ever had the error message "ERROR:PRINTER HALTED KILL 9 0 CALLED" ? I have had my X2 for 4 months now and no problems thanks to your bed levelling video. This error just started today when I went to do a "levelling"
Hi Rick, I watched your 2 reviews about the Ender 3 s1 Pro and the Artillery Sidewinder X2. I already have a modified Ender 3V2 and I am quite happy with it. My question is which one of the 2 printers would you recommend for almost exclusively rc planes printing with thin walls? They both seem to be very good printers, so it's hard to decide... also not much experience and very alone ... Thank you for your answer.
Hmm, my first question would be why do you need another printer? Is there something you V2 won't do? Both of the printers you've mentioned are direct drive. The X2 is much bigger but the S1 Pro can print higher temp materials like nylon and even polycarbonate.
@@RickyImpey, thank you for your answer. I wish to have a more "pro" printer and direct drive too. The V2 does the job, but I could improve the LW-PLA wing quality, eventually. Having 2 printers... is pleasant.
@@klausrimdoi45 Ha ha, well depending on the scale, is it an advantage to print larger pieces in one go? The S1 Pro bed siz ecan be limiting. If that's not a problem then possibly the S1 Pro. Recently some have had a few issues with leveling but I can't say if it's user error or a machine problem, mine doesn't have any issues. Have a look at the Sovol SV01 Pro too (review coming next week). It's could be a great compromise between bed size and capability. I'm very impressed with it so far.
How are you sticking a PEI sheet, did you just stick it to the standard bed? I have a magnetic bed that I've been sent and I was thinking of trying it on the Sidewinder so I can do away with the mirror and glue.
I have an X1. I got fed up with the ribbon cable connectors, and ended up wiring direct from the main board to the head. Looks like they have changed those. Bed adhesion is a constant problem, but I have upped the bed temperature and that helps- now I know why (your actual vs indicated temps). The reel bracket is terrible- access to the clamps is at the rear, v difficult to get to. Bed power sticks out the back- adds ~140mm to the overall depth - another fix. I like the interface and the speed... Question now is- do I get an X2, mod my X1, or choose another...
Well, over 6 months on, i still really like the X2. I don't love the screen and the firmware is a little limited but it's always been very reliable. I added a magnetic PEI bed and my bed adhesion problems went away.
@@RickyImpey I have ordered an X2- the fixes to issues convinced me. I like the solid construction, and hope it will be more reliable than the X1. When I started using the X1 (2.5 years ago), I had to make a 'machine type' because Cura did not list it. It does now, so I tried it- with exactly the same settings for speed etc, it takes ~25% longer to print. Looking at the gcode, it is moving more slowly- but neither versions seem to give the head speed that was selected... any ideas?
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Usually, if the speed that you've asked for in your slicer is not being reached, it is being limited by the printer's acceleration settings. Imagine a car journey where you want to drive at 70mph but your can doesn't accelerate very fast. It will take a long time to reach your desired speed everytime you have to slow down to corner. The slicer settings are your desired speeds but the actual speed will be slower as your acceleration is limiting it's potential. You can change acceleration and jerk settings in Cura but if you go too far you may induce 'ringing' artifacts. I don't have a video for this yet but I believe Teaching Tech have some decent information on tuning acceleration.
@@RickyImpey I was not referring to the speed achieved, but the feed rate in the gcode. e.g.where my X1 version gives F1800, the 'official' version gives F1200. Similar differences exist throughout the code. The former predicts a 4hr20 build, the latter a 5hr39. All options are set identically. Weird...
Hi, great review, thanks for give so much important details. I used to have an Ender 3 which I customized a lot. I sold this printer and now I'm considering to buy a new one with bigger printer volume. How easy do you consider to switch nozzles in this Sidewinder X2 ? Could you give more details about integration of this printer with octoprint ? I saw other video about this printer which the person changed the glass bed by an alumminium one. DO you have any ideia if this could be dangerous, considering the heating bed is fed with main power source instead DC ? Thanks by the information.
Hi, I know some people do change the bed to aluminium and then earth it to ensure there is less risk of electrocution but it's not something I would do myself. I just believe that there is too high a risk of danger with a couple of wiring failures. What I did was add a PEI flexible plate with the magnetic plate applied directly to the glass bed. This way, I get a better print surface, a little better heat distribution and no added risk. The nozzle is just as easy to change as any of my other 3d printers. Slightly easier actually as you don't need to remove any parts first, just slide the silicone sock off. This printer would run with Octoprint with no issues, it can also run with klipper and i've had it running with the Creality Sonic Pad. Firmware updates are a little tricky but possible.
"Seems" is not "actuality". I have both an X1 and X2. They have ZERO issues with bed adhesion even thought there is minor temp differences across the glass. EVERY printer bed has this issue, just in different amounts. I print extremely large prints in PLA and PETG and have had no issues at all. None, nada, zip.
Great review. I already have a CR10S Pro and considering a second large size printer. Since you’ve reviewed both, would you recommend one over the other?
I would definitely recommend the Sidewinder over the CR10S Pro. It has direct drive, 32 bit board and much better wire management. It feels like the next generation of printer compared to the CR10S Pro. The only real negative I'm finding is that non-removable bed surface but I plan to do something about that soon.
Thanks! I’ll certainly consider it. From a process standpoint, having multiple of the same printer makes for efficiency. Also, availability of the Sidewinder May also be an issue for me. That said, after a few Creality printers I’ve become turned off by them… I don’t want to fall victim to their questionable practices, and their product roadmap is all over the place.
@@Cosmic_Corp I added a magnetic PEI bed to the top of the standard bed and it has worked really well. I haven't been able to get the thermal camera on it unfortunately so I haven't seen how the temperature spread has changed as yet.
I'm new to 3d printing and noticed you used a feeler gauge to adjust the nozzle height. What gauge did you use? When using a feeler, do you adjust the bed until it not longer feels like it is lifting the head? I'm sure it is pressing the bed down rather than lifting the print head.
Seeing this I'm honestly regretting buying an Ender 3 V2, I got it about two weeks ago and at first got perfect prints, but soon enough they started degrading and now I practically can't get anything to work. Now this just looks nice and simple to use.
I don't regret getting the Ender 3v2 because you learn so much from it, and all time spent keep you off the streets. (lol) But, the Sidewinder X2 is like luxury & sport at the same time. My Sidewinder starts printing in about 2 minutes after power-up. No need to preheat stuff. It is a joy to use.
@@RickyImpey quite a late reply, I've managed to fix most of my issues, except bed adhesion, which sadly seems to come from me being a bit harsh with the glass plate. And then I get lots of stringing despite it printing with zero stringing at first, but I have a feeling it's the filament being wet at this point since I live in a quite humid place.
I'm looking for my 1st and only printer, and this one looks like it might be the ticket. Are the sides of the tall vase as smooth as they look on camera? And does this printer do fine detail as well as other printers of this size and price range. Speaking of price, it lists for $469 on the Artillery website, while it's only $339 on Geekbuying (on sale for the next 3 days) making this the least expensive printer of it's size. Also, have you tried a .2mm nozzle on this machine, or even a .1mm? I know print time will skyrocket, but if it will make a more detailed print, i'll be happy to wait for a print.
It is a good machine, and very accurate. I have tried smaller nozzles and it prints detail really well. To be fair, most of the printers from the main brands do but only if they're setup right. The beauty of the X2 (at least the one I was sent) is that you don't have to do any setting up. It prints well out if he box. I still stand by the pros and cons in the video, but since the review, I have added a magnetic PEI bed which has pretty much solved all of the bead heating issues. Yes, the Geekbuying deals are great at the moment. If you go through my link it also helps my reputation with them so they send me more stuff👍
@@RickyImpey That's my printer then. I'll be ordering it this Monday, and it looks like I can get a PEI bed from just about anywhere. The only question I have left is where do I buy a .2 or .1mm nozzle to fit this printer. Thanks for your help, and i'll be sure to use your link when I order.
@@wiliamogle9342 there will be lots of places to buy a nozzle depending where you live. I bought a set from Amazon that I am happy with. Just search for 'volcano' style nozzles. They have a longer thread on them than some others you may have seen. I really hope you enjoy your new printer👍
I have the X1 but can't get it printing, it puts the first layer down and then drags it around around in a clump, the bed temp is 80 and the nozzle is 220, distance between the bed and nozzle is done with sliding a piece of paper between which I've done. Anyone know what the problem could be?, it has worked ok for the first test print but hasn't worked since,.
I've got a ender v2 and a flsun qqs pro delta and my flsun delta for some reason only works with cura 4.6 so that's how my printers are running I'm wondering if cura 4.6 will work for this artillery sidewinder x2 if so I'll buy it right now I'm needing the bigger build area and a direct drive extruder for tpu anyone know if it works on cura 4.6 thanks
I'm sure it will work. Worse case, you may have to modify a profile. The good news is that this is a development of the Sidewinder X1 which has had a Cura profile for a long time. Have a look in the Cura version you are running. If there is a Sidewinder X1 profile then you will be fine.
It depends what you want to do with it. I don't believe in paying more just because you have the budget. I would identify what you want to do and then see what is available.
@@edwardholappa8410 It is an excellent printer and the large size will be a plus for molds. I print molds for RC aircraft with mine (I have both n X1 and X2)
The printer isn't dangerous. If someone made a printer with a bed made of a conductive material like aluminium and used an AC powered heating element, it wouldn't be very safe. This printer has a glass bed so that it is safe.
@@RickyImpey I am on a no budget to speak of. so, I either need to look at increasing my bed size of my e3v2 or look at a larger printer neither are cheap. I needed to make a bracket to fit my filament dry box to the side of my printer as it is not in an ideal place. Lacking space too. but the size I want is to long for my printer bed to give me the strength (if made in 2 halves). I do have a plan B but not as efficient?
Save your money and get a better printer. I have two Artillery Sidewinder X2s and both are now broken. One still under warranty and wont level the build plate at all. Second one that was a decent performer will not power on anymore. Artillery support have been totally USELESS and non responsive.
Where are you ordering from Dom? I will get them to sort it. I know they changed some discount codes today so something may need tweaking. I will email and get them to sort it asap.
@@RickyImpey I think I found the problem. My phone would not let me make a account. When I tried on a desktop it seemed to work. But I was on a unsecured computer so I didn't add my cc Info. I will try when I get home Saturday. My phone that I use may be the blame. It's set up with a extra security.
@@domgag1756 Awesome, thanks for letting me know. They have an extra $20 discount running for the next couple of weeks so it's now only $329.99USD which I think is a bargain! Let me know if you have any other problems.
Hi Ricky, thanks for this fabulous review. After doing an autolevel from octoprint I got some profiles with slightly raised ends. I thought it was deformation due to temperature, but I still see them at room temperature. Here I leave you an image to see what your opinion is. Have you done any tests on yours, does it look like this? It is strange that a glass base is curved with that profile, don't you think? drive.google.com/file/d/1665ZwbK4wD0CJpMH1YdVkqWJCGjWCBh3/view?usp=sharing
Hi Ignacio. That image really makes it look worse than it is. It's showing at most 0.1-0.2mm higher at the corners. Unfortunately, it is probably inaccuracies in the bed probe and the coating on the bed causing the slight difference. It's not something I would be concerned about myself.
@@RickyImpey Thanks! the truth is that the difference is minimal and not to be taken into account After doing the manual and autolevel calibration, I expected to compensate for these small differences, but I found that the first layer of an STL (test level) had some material drag in the corners. (attached image) It has occurred to me just when I saw your thermographic images of how BADLY the bed of this Artillery heats up, that what happens is not really because the self-leveling is not doing its job, but because the material does not adhere to the bed for lack of temperature and those tenths of height cause drag to occur. drive.google.com/file/d/1zan_ya1-jTt2FjctVcmuDAGFh13omkOa/view?usp=share_link
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
I have discovered it too, that the temperature on the print bed, for all my printers (3) is not what it has been set to in reality. That's why I bought a heating (silicon) element from Keenovo, with its own thermostat, and built my own bed. And I now have close to 95% correct temp in relation to what I have requested.
Ha amazing review, i bought this for $250 and am so hlad i did. It is great to know the heat bleed below the bed which looks sixable because its where the glass gets connected at each corners adjustment spring.
I truely love this machine even though ive only had it 2 weeks. It gave me access to printing anything i want. As a mushroom grower this means i can print hingest, ducting, handles, switch casings, vent filters and fan adapters.
I can cut off so many expensive parts because now i can print them. I just finished printing a mini computer case and now i am working on duct flanges.
It isnt perfect, and i learned while using programs like prusa that temp is everything, but as things get dialed in and my 1" xps foam print case gets assembled, i will be able to run my business on flat 4x8 panels of foam and plastic with printed parts, making me adaptable to the changing financial future of being a viable business.
For example i used to have to buy used squirrel blowers on hepa filters that were used for rat experiments in labs, with proprietary filters that cost hundreds, now i can buy a 1ftx1ft hepa and print the flange to attach it to my mushroom lab, for $100 plus filament. Its insane the amount of hours ive spent looking at products that are not for mushroom production but are similar to fit me needs, now i can just print it with fusion 360
Great to hear you are reaping some of the great benefits of 3d printing so soon! Thanks for your comment👍
Great review! I have been wanting to get a large bed printer to print helmets, like the Mandalorian helmet, in one go. Was considering a CR10, Ender 3 S1 Plus, or Anycubic Kobra Max/Plus, but I think the Sidewinder X2 will be my pick. Looks like a fantastic printer.
Did you pick up a sidewinder x2? If so how’s it working. I’m looking to print the same stuff
@@MrXJ98 About to order this one as my first my self If I remember I will let you know the report!
I've had my X2 for a year now, putting in the all-metal hotend with .6mm steel nozzle right from the get go. No major issues, though the LCD did die on my twice (probably not Artillery 3D's fault, more of me being in a lightning prone area). Had one LCD replaced under warranty (Artillery 3D's customer service has been superb in my experience, they even sent me replacement Ruby and motor boards as well) and got another from a local shop.
Been happily printing PLA+, Silk PLA, TPU, PC, PC-CF and PA6-CF before recently updated to Artillery 3D's all-metal hotend firmware to enable 300C at the hotend. Very happy!
But since @RickyImpey came out with the Sonic Pad guides, I'll be running that with the X2 soon (once my local shop has it in stock). Would be nice to print faster with the X2 until I could afford Bambu Labs' X1Carbon, though the X2 will remain as part of the team.
😃😃😃
Was it easy to switch all metal hotend
@@Hanzi2u There were a few screws to take off but no biggie when following the instructions.
@@velocistafpv which instructions did you follow? From where
@@Hanzi2u there are quite a number of video tutorials on YT. One of them which I find useful is the guide in Artillery 3D's official channel. Hope this helps.
ruclips.net/video/4MEzFaZPUKY/видео.html
I ordered this printer yesterday ! Thanks for the honest review
It's great, a couple of negatives but print quality is really good which is the main thing. I'm also working on some ideas to improve the heat spread across the bed to make bed adhesion a bit more consistent too.
@@RickyImpey great stuff ! I’ll stay tuned
How do you like it? Im looking to buy this printer as my first machine.
I’m sick to my stomach of fixing and modding my cheapo Creality and AnyCubic printers. It was fun when I was just starting and helped me learn a lot of 3DP in general but my hobby is making robots not fixing my printers! I think this will be my next printer and your review convinced me.
Mine has proven to be reliable so far. I haven't done a PID tune, e-steps or had to fix anything. I have added a Two trees PEI magnetic bed which has sorted the issue the uneven AC heating caused. I still really like it.
@@RickyImpey do you have a link for that bed ???
@@RickyImpey Yeah would love to know too, thanks! I can only find the one with the adhesive magnetic layer, but Im not sure about how it would improve the issue with the bad heat spreading
@@atzeschratze4199 This video has the PEI beds I've used in the description. I do use an adhesive mag one and it seems better for heat spread ruclips.net/video/7kC4DghTW7o/видео.html
I have the Sidewinder X2 and love this fast & quiet 3d printer. I am seriously considering a second one since this X2 printer is so much easier than the Ultimaker 2 & 3 models. There have been ZERO problems getting objects to stick & release from the bed, provided you select the proper Brim or Raft at start, and let the bed fully cool. And, I never use glue sticks! In Cura 4.13 slicer, there was no need to manually add any codes if Sidewinder X1 profile is selected. There was no X2 profile. This is just a great 3D printer that simply keep working, with no need to fiddle and treak stuff.
Thanks for your comment. If you're thinking of getting another one, there is and extra $20 discount currently with the Geekbuying link and using my code👍
@@RickyImpey cool ty🤗👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
@@RickyImpey And funny enough that code still works, I bought mine few weeks ago, and it arrived today. Thank you for a great video.... Like always :)
@@euroriderdk Geekbuying keep me up to date with new codes. We always try to keep the discounts available as long as possible. Hope you enjoy your new printer, I still really highly rate it compared to everything else I have👍 Enjoy
@@RickyImpey setting it up as we speak. Bought the mirror too (well I got it for free) but yes
We are buying one for our Assistive Technology service and I'm really looking forward to pumping out some keyguards , various gripping tools, adapted cultery and alternative gaming controller gear.
Sounds really interesting David. I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
There is a usb plug that angles 90 degrees and you plug your usb into the cable attached to it so that you don't have that sticking up. I've broken 2 ports on my X1...
Yes, good idea👍
I chose this as my first 3D printer. Other than something like the bamboo lab printer I'm really not sure why anyone would choose much of anything else considering the build volume in more expensive printers (like the bamboo) are much smaller. Maybe if a company like bamboo labs makes an XL version id consider it for the faster print speeds and more premium build, but I really see so few cons with this printer. No wonder it out of stock everywhere :(.
Perfect review. Am looking at this exact printer for my next one :)
Glad you found it useful 👍
Overall looks like a nice printer. But the non-replaceable bed is a deal breaker. Thanks for the review
Yes, not the best decision in my opinion. I've since fitted a magnetic PEI bed and it makes a world of difference.
@@RickyImpey I’m looking for my second printer would you recommend this or the Creality Ender3 max neo? Or something else possibly? I like everything I’ve heard about the sidewinder over the creality except the not being able to change the bed. Was it hard fitting a pei sheet? I’ve never added one to my fokoos Odin f3. TIA
@@Truckinitup26 Hi, I haven't got any experience of the other printers you've mentioned but fitting the PEI bed is very easy, it's a self-adhesive magnetic material that you just peel the back off and stick on. I haven't really changed my mind about anything on the X2. I really like it but it does feel a little rattly compared to my Ender 3 S1 Pro.
@@RickyImpey Did you just stuck the magnetic sheet to the glass bed of the printer or did you do you it in another way? Thanks for the review, it helped a lot!
@@kekkie I just stuck it on after a good clean🙂 Works great
Hi Ricky, With the Sidewinder X2, have you ever had the error message "ERROR:PRINTER HALTED KILL 9 0 CALLED" ? I have had my X2 for 4 months now and no problems thanks to your bed levelling video. This error just started today when I went to do a "levelling"
Hi Rick,
I watched your 2 reviews about the Ender 3 s1 Pro and the Artillery Sidewinder X2. I already have a modified Ender 3V2 and I am quite happy with it.
My question is which one of the 2 printers would you recommend for almost exclusively rc planes printing with thin walls? They both seem to be very good printers, so it's hard to decide... also not much experience and very alone ... Thank you for your answer.
Hmm, my first question would be why do you need another printer? Is there something you V2 won't do? Both of the printers you've mentioned are direct drive. The X2 is much bigger but the S1 Pro can print higher temp materials like nylon and even polycarbonate.
@@RickyImpey, thank you for your answer. I wish to have a more "pro" printer and direct drive too. The V2 does the job, but I could improve the LW-PLA wing quality, eventually. Having 2 printers... is pleasant.
@@klausrimdoi45 Ha ha, well depending on the scale, is it an advantage to print larger pieces in one go? The S1 Pro bed siz ecan be limiting. If that's not a problem then possibly the S1 Pro. Recently some have had a few issues with leveling but I can't say if it's user error or a machine problem, mine doesn't have any issues. Have a look at the Sovol SV01 Pro too (review coming next week). It's could be a great compromise between bed size and capability. I'm very impressed with it so far.
Excellent overview, Secret Agent Impey. LOL I covet its quieter operation as opposed to my Ender 3 S1 Pro.
Ha ha, yes it is a bit quieter than the S1 Pro.
Amazing content, tha k you sir.
Strongly considering this printer after I put my anycubic chiron in the trash.
It's my go to printer if I just want to press print and walk away. Still no issues months later for me.
I guess i was right 😁
I have 2 SWX2s and I love them. Put a PEI coated steel sheet on the bed and it will fix all bed issues.
Yes you were! Well done Daruosh 🙂
Sorry I didn't print the Kobra but I was a bit concerned about the number of overhangs and how well it would print without supports.
@@RickyImpey yeah , it's bit too large and honestly wasteful:)
How are you sticking a PEI sheet, did you just stick it to the standard bed? I have a magnetic bed that I've been sent and I was thinking of trying it on the Sidewinder so I can do away with the mirror and glue.
@@RickyImpey Magnetic PEI sheet. Being removable and flexible is crucial for huge prints, I assume.
I have an X1. I got fed up with the ribbon cable connectors, and ended up wiring direct from the main board to the head. Looks like they have changed those. Bed adhesion is a constant problem, but I have upped the bed temperature and that helps- now I know why (your actual vs indicated temps). The reel bracket is terrible- access to the clamps is at the rear, v difficult to get to. Bed power sticks out the back- adds ~140mm to the overall depth - another fix. I like the interface and the speed... Question now is- do I get an X2, mod my X1, or choose another...
Well, over 6 months on, i still really like the X2. I don't love the screen and the firmware is a little limited but it's always been very reliable. I added a magnetic PEI bed and my bed adhesion problems went away.
@@RickyImpey I have ordered an X2- the fixes to issues convinced me. I like the solid construction, and hope it will be more reliable than the X1. When I started using the X1 (2.5 years ago), I had to make a 'machine type' because Cura did not list it. It does now, so I tried it- with exactly the same settings for speed etc, it takes ~25% longer to print. Looking at the gcode, it is moving more slowly- but neither versions seem to give the head speed that was selected... any ideas?
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Usually, if the speed that you've asked for in your slicer is not being reached, it is being limited by the printer's acceleration settings. Imagine a car journey where you want to drive at 70mph but your can doesn't accelerate very fast. It will take a long time to reach your desired speed everytime you have to slow down to corner. The slicer settings are your desired speeds but the actual speed will be slower as your acceleration is limiting it's potential. You can change acceleration and jerk settings in Cura but if you go too far you may induce 'ringing' artifacts. I don't have a video for this yet but I believe Teaching Tech have some decent information on tuning acceleration.
@@RickyImpey I was not referring to the speed achieved, but the feed rate in the gcode. e.g.where my X1 version gives F1800, the 'official' version gives F1200. Similar differences exist throughout the code. The former predicts a 4hr20 build, the latter a 5hr39. All options are set identically. Weird...
@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Oh ok, that's strange 🤔
Hi, great review, thanks for give so much important details. I used to have an Ender 3 which I customized a lot. I sold this printer and now I'm considering to buy a new one with bigger printer volume. How easy do you consider to switch nozzles in this Sidewinder X2 ? Could you give more details about integration of this printer with octoprint ? I saw other video about this printer which the person changed the glass bed by an alumminium one. DO you have any ideia if this could be dangerous, considering the heating bed is fed with main power source instead DC ? Thanks by the information.
Hi, I know some people do change the bed to aluminium and then earth it to ensure there is less risk of electrocution but it's not something I would do myself. I just believe that there is too high a risk of danger with a couple of wiring failures. What I did was add a PEI flexible plate with the magnetic plate applied directly to the glass bed. This way, I get a better print surface, a little better heat distribution and no added risk. The nozzle is just as easy to change as any of my other 3d printers. Slightly easier actually as you don't need to remove any parts first, just slide the silicone sock off. This printer would run with Octoprint with no issues, it can also run with klipper and i've had it running with the Creality Sonic Pad. Firmware updates are a little tricky but possible.
Interesting looking printer. Nice vid. :)
This one seems like a no-go considering the uneven bed heating; if you want to do larger prints in anything besides PLA you're just SOL.
"Seems" is not "actuality". I have both an X1 and X2. They have ZERO issues with bed adhesion even thought there is minor temp differences across the glass. EVERY printer bed has this issue, just in different amounts. I print extremely large prints in PLA and PETG and have had no issues at all. None, nada, zip.
Great review. I already have a CR10S Pro and considering a second large size printer. Since you’ve reviewed both, would you recommend one over the other?
I would definitely recommend the Sidewinder over the CR10S Pro. It has direct drive, 32 bit board and much better wire management. It feels like the next generation of printer compared to the CR10S Pro. The only real negative I'm finding is that non-removable bed surface but I plan to do something about that soon.
Thanks! I’ll certainly consider it. From a process standpoint, having multiple of the same printer makes for efficiency. Also, availability of the Sidewinder May also be an issue for me. That said, after a few Creality printers I’ve become turned off by them… I don’t want to fall victim to their questionable practices, and their product roadmap is all over the place.
@@szetor1 Yes, I know what you mean in both cases. I hope you end up choosing something you are very happy with👍
@@RickyImpey Did you manage to do something about the bed surface? Very interested to know how it went
@@Cosmic_Corp I added a magnetic PEI bed to the top of the standard bed and it has worked really well. I haven't been able to get the thermal camera on it unfortunately so I haven't seen how the temperature spread has changed as yet.
So, does the mirror heat from the factory build plate?
Yes, if the mirror sits on the bed, it is warmed too.
In 2024, which 3d printer should i pickup sidewinder X2 or X3 Plus?
I'm new to 3d printing and noticed you used a feeler gauge to adjust the nozzle height. What gauge did you use? When using a feeler, do you adjust the bed until it not longer feels like it is lifting the head? I'm sure it is pressing the bed down rather than lifting the print head.
Hi Anthony, this video will hopefully answer all of your questions ruclips.net/video/zKpNxqWie_8/видео.html
👍🏽😊 That dragon came out amazing
Haha like in a spy movie mode!!! Love it!
That was a palm wrench, you said you had no idea what it is, that is what it is.! : )
Ah ha! Thanks
Seeing this I'm honestly regretting buying an Ender 3 V2, I got it about two weeks ago and at first got perfect prints, but soon enough they started degrading and now I practically can't get anything to work. Now this just looks nice and simple to use.
The Ender 3v2 is a great printer, I have one and love it. What's not behaving on yours?
Honestly same, everything was great, then everything stopped sticking to the bed, no matter what it is leveled at it just doesnt stick
I don't regret getting the Ender 3v2 because you learn so much from it, and all time spent keep you off the streets. (lol) But, the Sidewinder X2 is like luxury & sport at the same time. My Sidewinder starts printing in about 2 minutes after power-up. No need to preheat stuff. It is a joy to use.
@@RickyImpey quite a late reply, I've managed to fix most of my issues, except bed adhesion, which sadly seems to come from me being a bit harsh with the glass plate. And then I get lots of stringing despite it printing with zero stringing at first, but I have a feeling it's the filament being wet at this point since I live in a quite humid place.
@@Psygo1 Very likely, I dry all my filament now as I always seem to see an improvement.
I'm looking for my 1st and only printer, and this one looks like it might be the ticket. Are the sides of the tall vase as smooth as they look on camera? And does this printer do fine detail as well as other printers of this size and price range. Speaking of price, it lists for $469 on the Artillery website, while it's only $339 on Geekbuying (on sale for the next 3 days) making this the least expensive printer of it's size. Also, have you tried a .2mm nozzle on this machine, or even a .1mm? I know print time will skyrocket, but if it will make a more detailed print, i'll be happy to wait for a print.
It is a good machine, and very accurate. I have tried smaller nozzles and it prints detail really well. To be fair, most of the printers from the main brands do but only if they're setup right. The beauty of the X2 (at least the one I was sent) is that you don't have to do any setting up. It prints well out if he box. I still stand by the pros and cons in the video, but since the review, I have added a magnetic PEI bed which has pretty much solved all of the bead heating issues. Yes, the Geekbuying deals are great at the moment. If you go through my link it also helps my reputation with them so they send me more stuff👍
@@RickyImpey That's my printer then. I'll be ordering it this Monday, and it looks like I can get a PEI bed from just about anywhere. The only question I have left is where do I buy a .2 or .1mm nozzle to fit this printer. Thanks for your help, and i'll be sure to use your link when I order.
@@wiliamogle9342 there will be lots of places to buy a nozzle depending where you live. I bought a set from Amazon that I am happy with. Just search for 'volcano' style nozzles. They have a longer thread on them than some others you may have seen. I really hope you enjoy your new printer👍
Can you do a video on installing A PEI magnetic bed for a beginner ? I will be purchasing this printer tomorrow
@@triplethreat9168 It is on the list, I will try to shuffle it up for you👍
Hy. 2:29 - 2:31 how did u solve that problem ? likely i have the same problem too . Nice chanel tho , keep going on :)
Hi, check out this video where I go into detail ruclips.net/video/LV1Nnohwqik/видео.html
Just ordern one few days ago got att 280 dollar brand new. Its a steel 👍
Awesome, that's a lot of printer for the money! Hope you love it as much as I love mine👍
Getting another probe is a pain. I broke mine printing a star wars snowspeeder.
Did you manage to get one in the end? If so, where from?
I have the X1 but can't get it printing, it puts the first layer down and then drags it around around in a clump, the bed temp is 80 and the nozzle is 220, distance between the bed and nozzle is done with sliding a piece of paper between which I've done.
Anyone know what the problem could be?, it has worked ok for the first test print but hasn't worked since,.
I've got a ender v2 and a flsun qqs pro delta and my flsun delta for some reason only works with cura 4.6 so that's how my printers are running I'm wondering if cura 4.6 will work for this artillery sidewinder x2 if so I'll buy it right now I'm needing the bigger build area and a direct drive extruder for tpu anyone know if it works on cura 4.6 thanks
I'm sure it will work. Worse case, you may have to modify a profile. The good news is that this is a development of the Sidewinder X1 which has had a Cura profile for a long time. Have a look in the Cura version you are running. If there is a Sidewinder X1 profile then you will be fine.
Hi, I have a budget of 1000.Dollars
Would you still recommend this printer?
It depends what you want to do with it. I don't believe in paying more just because you have the budget. I would identify what you want to do and then see what is available.
user friendly make molds. in order to then be able to cast things. stable printer
@@edwardholappa8410 It is an excellent printer and the large size will be a plus for molds. I print molds for RC aircraft with mine (I have both n X1 and X2)
Weird, why have other reviewers who pointed heat guns at the bed registered accurate temps? Bizarre
Having too many problems with this printer. The heating bed isn't that bad. It has many other problems
You mentioned death. How and when can this thing kill you?
The printer isn't dangerous. If someone made a printer with a bed made of a conductive material like aluminium and used an AC powered heating element, it wouldn't be very safe. This printer has a glass bed so that it is safe.
:D
*turns on printer....*
:D
*makes loud start up beep sound*
D:
NEWEGG.... $298.00 or the LONGER LK5 Pro 179.00 both big print bed.. SCREW THIS VIDEO COMMERCIAL FOR KICKBACKS
Looks like a great printer but price point out for me. I think I would look for a bigger bed size for less
What other options are you looking at out if interest?
@@RickyImpey I am on a no budget to speak of. so, I either need to look at increasing my bed size of my e3v2 or look at a larger printer neither are cheap. I needed to make a bracket to fit my filament dry box to the side of my printer as it is not in an ideal place. Lacking space too. but the size I want is to long for my printer bed to give me the strength (if made in 2 halves). I do have a plan B but not as efficient?
Bigger for less? Please share what you are smoking.
I don’t think your code is working anymore it’s probably because it’s already lowered to $279 is that why 😂 ?
Possibly, I'll ask them on Monday. Thanks for letting me know👍
Save your money and get a better printer. I have two Artillery Sidewinder X2s and both are now broken. One still under warranty and wont level the build plate at all. Second one that was a decent performer will not power on anymore. Artillery support have been totally USELESS and non responsive.
that's bad geekbuying not ship in Canada snif snif
Oh no! Really?
@@RickyImpey yeah that's very sad i have to pay the double price :(
pretty bad artillery isnt for canadians :(
Jesus Loves You
This printer is really bad, it has a lot of problems with both software and mechanics
I went to order it. But when it went to review order it.came.hp 404.
Where are you ordering from Dom? I will get them to sort it. I know they changed some discount codes today so something may need tweaking. I will email and get them to sort it asap.
I used the link provided here. It didn't even get to the spot for the code.
@@domgag1756 what country are you in? I think they need to know this to find out what's wrong.
@@RickyImpey I think I found the problem. My phone would not let me make a account. When I tried on a desktop it seemed to work. But I was on a unsecured computer so I didn't add my cc Info. I will try when I get home Saturday. My phone that I use may be the blame. It's set up with a extra security.
@@domgag1756 Awesome, thanks for letting me know. They have an extra $20 discount running for the next couple of weeks so it's now only $329.99USD which I think is a bargain! Let me know if you have any other problems.
Hi Ricky, thanks for this fabulous review. After doing an autolevel from octoprint I got some profiles with slightly raised ends. I thought it was deformation due to temperature, but I still see them at room temperature. Here I leave you an image to see what your opinion is. Have you done any tests on yours, does it look like this? It is strange that a glass base is curved with that profile, don't you think? drive.google.com/file/d/1665ZwbK4wD0CJpMH1YdVkqWJCGjWCBh3/view?usp=sharing
Hi Ignacio. That image really makes it look worse than it is. It's showing at most 0.1-0.2mm higher at the corners. Unfortunately, it is probably inaccuracies in the bed probe and the coating on the bed causing the slight difference. It's not something I would be concerned about myself.
@@RickyImpey Thanks! the truth is that the difference is minimal and not to be taken into account
After doing the manual and autolevel calibration, I expected to compensate for these small differences, but I found that the first layer of an STL (test level) had some material drag in the corners. (attached image)
It has occurred to me just when I saw your thermographic images of how BADLY the bed of this Artillery heats up, that what happens is not really because the self-leveling is not doing its job, but because the material does not adhere to the bed for lack of temperature and those tenths of height cause drag to occur.
drive.google.com/file/d/1zan_ya1-jTt2FjctVcmuDAGFh13omkOa/view?usp=share_link