I've had my Sidewinder for over a year now and I love it! I went pretty much straight to an all metal hot end, and it has been fantastic! Im still learning all about 3d printing, but I love it! Ive been quite worried a couple times that is stopped printing when I was in another room. That goes to show how quiet it is!!!
Yours is the third and most comprehensive video review of this machine I’ve watched. Every single user had a different issue that needed addressing. I wonder if troubleshooting would be beyond a beginner like me? Thanks for taking the time to go back and update before posting.
I got one of these a couple months ago, and I was at first super impressed. I was printing PLA and PETG parts like a champ, and the setup seemed basically bulletproof for about 3 weeks. However, I am an engineer and I really wanted some durable functional parts, so I decided to try Nylon. This became a massive problem with the stock extruder, but not for the reason you might think. I was cautiously printing around 245-255 not wanting the PTFE to break down but I actually had the ribbon cable on the X axis fail not once, but twice. I've also had the vertical axis cable fail once though this was from the bed rubbing on it and can easily be fixed with some tape. I'm not new at all to 3D printing, but I am new to modifying my printers, and in my attempt to modify the extruder and replace the heatbrake I ended up snapping it off in the volcano style block in an attempt to clear a jam in a really cheap chinese heatbrake. This was entirely user error, but I will say it is a bit of a PITA to replace the extruder because of how little room there is to turn it and the wires are rather stiff, meaning I was constantly afraid I'd break them. In fact I did break the thermister by twisting the wires a bit too much, and the sensor came free of its casing. Things I like: The AC heat bed heats up stupidly fast even to 90C or above. Super quiet. Direct drive is a big plus for me, I've had little to no stringing issues. Customer service is very nice and sent me free replacement parts like the cables. Thermal runaway enabled by default. Really reliably prints PLA/PETG. Bed surface worked awesome with just hairspray. Can print really fast, I default all my PLA prints to 90mm/s. Volcano heat block compatible with large nozzles to make better use of the huge volume. Issues: Reliability of the cables. Occasionally I'd have a random thermal runaway error stop a print even with it working fine before (early sign of failing cable?). Short fragile wires to the board on the extruder. Annoying spoolholder. Firmware default will max out at 270C, if you replace with all metal you pretty much must modify that. I'm sure once I have my all metal setup running and do some PID tuning it will become a workhorse again, save maybe for the cables. But they aren't too hard to replace and I probably got through 3kg of filament before my first failure. I've successfully done some 8 hour plus prints and had no issues with PLA and PETG. If all you print is below 230C on the nozzle then it is a beast of a machine. But if you want to print Nylon without mods and don't need the build volume or huge nozzles, a Prusa may be better. I've got a thermister, a microswiss all metal heatbrake, and a genuine E3d Volcano block on order. With those I bet I'll have a much better time with high temperature printing and be loving this thing again.
hello i'm from Portugal, i had the same problem with my first 3d printer, this in 2015, i was still noob in 3d printer, but i already knew a little about 3d printers i think i lost half a day to deal with the problem, but I had spare parts of all kinds, so it was easy to replace, this can be a big problem for those who buy for the first time and do not have spare parts I really like your videos, keep up the good work big hugs from Portugal for you and your entire team
Ok honestly you devin and makers muse are my top thee go to channels I learn the most from you guys I’m not just learning with every episode I’m also being entertained in the sense I’m having fun learning haha 😊😊😊
I prefer ptfe-lined hotends especially for PLA. Using a high temp PTFE like Capricorn is the way to go. It handles PETG like a champ as well. Great review but as others have mentioned, if you wait longer than a few months to review a printer, maybe consider exchanging it for a new production version or build both (if the first one is from early production) for a comparison (my preference). Early adopters benefit by seeing the improvements to implement by viewing a current production model, and prospective buyers see what they are actually receiving with a current production model.
I recently received this printer. I purchased a refurbished one. I was blown away by the quality of the prints I am getting. Unfortunately it continually quits mid print due to thermal runaway being triggered. I have tried to contact the Artillery website, the Ali Express store, and the person that shipped it. The latter being the only one that responded. I changed the ribbon with the provided spare. (That connects the gantry to the base). It has failed twice with in a couples hours on the second print. Is there anything you can do to help? I really like this printer and just want to keep it running without errors. Thank you, Chris
@@ImaginativeFabrication I don't have this particular printer but if it keeps happening mid print have a look at the print fan speed settings in your slicer. It might be increasing the fan speed at a certain layer time which may be blowing on your hot end causing it to cool down and not be able to keep up. Try decreasing it by 30% and see if it happens again
@@tcw95NZ thank you! I'll give it a try. I've never had that problem on any of my other printers. I use Simplify 3d and haven't set up any incremental fan changes. I'll double check to see if they were in the x1 profile I downloaded.
@@ImaginativeFabrication It would also probably help to tune the PID for the hotend with the fan on. Assuming the printer runs Marlin firmware, you can send M106 S255 to turn the fan on. The number after the S is the fan speed. It is a PWM value though, not a percentage so 255 is 100%. I would set the fan to whatever percentage you most commonly use. After the fan is on send an M303 command. That would go something like this: M303 E0 C5 S200 U. This will autotune your E0 heater (the hotend) at 200C (S) for 5 cycles (C) and then enable the new PID settings (U). If those settings work you can send M500 to save them to the firmware. You would do this through a slicer or some other software that can send Gcode commands to the printer. You can also put all of these commands in a text file (each one on its own line and in the order I put them in) and save it as a .gcode file instead of a .txt file then run it from the SD card.
Just a quick add-almost all the issues have been addressed in their updates. Spool holder adaptor for bridging the gap is already on Thingiverse FYI there are at least 2 versions out now so no need to make your own. One update that just isn't good, the flat ribbon no longer has a positive lock on the newer models (not sure why they did this) but the caveat is that now you need to print a cable stay to avoid it coming loose (on carriage) over time with use which can cause all types of issues. Great Video as always!
I just got my printer in the mail (369.00 US), and I'm waiting for my filament to arrive (should have ordered them BOTH at the same time)! I will have to check out that tube and see if I need to replace that after I start printing. P. S. This is the first printer I've ever had! Thanks for the great video!
Joel, I truly appreciate all opf the great work you do. As a newbie to 3D prionting, the information you offer is very helpful. There are however so many printers to choose from, it's hard to decide which one may be best. May I offer a suggestion? A car RUclipsr called Doiug De Muro gives each car a Doug Score. He gives points for a variety of features etc. It's very helpful, as it seperates the wheat from the chaf. I think it would be great if you printed the same standard file for each printer you test and rate the time taken, the quality of the results. Also value for money/cost, pros and cons, ease of assembly(if appropriate), build volume, before and after sales support and whatever other features you deem important. A standardized 'test', would make it much easier to hone in on which is the right printer for your application.
The USB thing (I mean the motion during skirt layer you talk about) is something usual when you don't have CRC check while doing memory read. For example it should parse the g-code line like G1 X30.000 but due to read error from USB it sees G1 X(something unusable) so it interprets it as zero or something else that is incorrect so it goes to another position then reads the next line of g-code correctly and goes to correct place after that. to reduce the possibility of this issue you need to reformat the USB stick and recreate the file. I have had this issue many years ago when I was designing and making my own 3d printer.
Really nice to find my chainmail design in the video! I completely agree with you, there is room for improvement with the chainmail print quality, but I'm quite sure it's alls about the slicing settings. Hardware looks really good!
Thanks for all your great videos--big fan. I started all of a sudden getting clogging on all my prints with my Genius. Filament just stopped coming through anywhere from 10% to 50% of the job during EVERY print, and in prints that had worked fine many times before. Typically the printer was continuing, "printing" in thin air with no filament coming out. I found that I could often get the filament to start flowing again by pushing the filament through from the top by hand (although the print was already ruined). So far this sounds like the situation I´ve seen in many videos on RUclips, but wait... 1. I´m using an all metal heatbreak, so no PTFE anywhere down where the filament is molten, and I changed the heatbreak and the nozzle several times. Also, this happens with 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles. I´ve also done several cold pulls, even with nylon as you suggested in another video. 2. Whenever this happened the extruder gear was just wearing away the filament as it turned in one place until I stopped it (that´s where all that ash-like dust comes from). I tried adjusting the spring tension on the extruder gear, but teeth marks on the filament could be very deep or hardly visible and it didn't make any difference. 3. I used filaments I had successfully used before (all PLA), even new ones still in their sealed plastic bags. 4. I reduced the retraction from 5mm to 2mm. 5. Of course, each time I checked that the filament spool was spinning freely. So, anyone have any comments or suggestions?
10:43 The Longer 3D Orange 10 has a little space around the SD card slot like the case hole is slightly bigger than the actual slot. So at least twice I actually got my SD card lost inside the machine because I thought it was in the slot but it wasn't.
If I didn't already have a CR-10s modded with direct drive and tuned to high heaven I would get this printer in a heartbeat. The sturdier build, encased base and electronics and how insanely quiet it is makes it, probably, one of the best printers you can get for the money right now.
The issues seem to have all been addressed with later revisions.. the sheet metal cutout, the odd movement at start with USB drive, and I just left one side of the spool holder slightly loose so you can just slide it to fit the other spool.
Thanks for the additional information. I was considering this in addition to/replacement of my CR10S Pro because of all the trouble I've been having with mine. But I've had to tinker so much with my printer that I'm just about done with tinkering with printers for life and I don't care to tinker with yet another one. I still need to add mod to syncronize belts like this one has.
For the spool holder just righting the half with the sensor. Then loosely tighten the other side. Then you should be able to slide it back and forth to fit different size spools and the holder not move. I have this machine and that is the solution that works for me.
My current and only machine is optimized for high speed, big parts, and ABS, but not surface quality. I saw another prominent review of this one and thought it would be an ideal companion to the one I already have. Now that I see the downsides of the X1, it doesn't look perfect any more, but looks like it still works for me very well. Thanks, this is good stuff.
We could continue this ;) I mean.. it's not like anyone is moving here.. put it on manual, focus on Joel.. set it and forget it.. what seems to be problem here??? Did the cat bump the tripod? jeeez :D
@ 3D Printing Nerd In regards to the spool holder. How about changing the hex bolts to Wing nut style bolts so you can just use your fingers to adjust it?
I just bought a dual z upgrade for my cr10 but now I'm thinking I might try and attach a belt to the top to connect the 2 threaded rods like this printer. Seems like a pretty useful idea
The error mentioned at 11:35 also occurs with my Artillery Genius. Regardless of the USB stick used. It seems to occur with Slic3r version 1.3.0 and higher. Using Slic3r 1.2.9 and Cura this problem does not occur.
Interessting conclusion about the teflon tube, i had the same problem but after a nozzle Switch its were gone, too. The bigger problem for me is the hotend heater. After 3hours of printing, right after calibration, the heater did go south. And with the connector type they thoose for the transition pcb i hadnt the right one to crimp another heater to it! The choosen connector is the JST 3,96mm and as far as i know there is no manufacturer who is making thermistors or heaters with this kind of connector. The way better way for a plattform would have been to choose the same connectors as E3D (micro-fit 3.0) to have a easy swappable ecosystem!
Downside is the model you have is pretty old alot of the negative things you touched on have either been fixed already, or dont exist anymore. Anyways, you might want to double check the bore on the nozzle- earlier versions had a few that were shipped with 3mm nozzles instead of 1.75. As usual Joel, great video but the information (for the most part) is outdated now. Ive had machines now in the fixed v1 (post evnovo logo), v2's, and v3's and am glad to report they are the reason our Prusas are starting to collect dust. Reach out to the community (or me even) if you need anything brother.
Nice Sidewinder review! The newest version 4 is available from AliExpress only and only when you pick Shipping from the China warehouse. It has a reset button next to the LCD panel as well as other improvements. The version on Amazon is Version 3. They told me directly. I was thinking of adding this printer to my arsenal as well.
I have had the "runaway hotend" before. Turned out that the ribbon cables going from my SD / LCD were too close to the PSU. It was causing some crosstalk and apparently it would just go for a walk randomly.... All I had to do to fix it was to zip tie the leads farther away from the PSU.
Great video. Unfortunately, the hot end design and the non-traditionally frame that wouldn't allow for z braces make it a no go for me. Thanks a lot for the info.
Hi Joel, I have the same printer, but I have got the version 4 (at the time of writing, the latest version). In this printer I have, there is no problem with the sheet metal anymore, the holes are just big enough to use the SD card or USB stick. Also, the USB stick GCODE behaves just the same as the SD card GCODE, I guess that problem is also fixed (or at least, I don't have that problem). When I bought the printer, I levelled the bed, I didn't do anything about it since and now, about 30 prints later, it is still a perfect level as it should be. The spool holder at the top, yeah. That's a problem. I don't like it that much, but it's not a big thing. The cable restraint still is not good, you have to print your own part to make it better and the hot end still uses a low cost, crappy PTFE inner liner tube. That said, I print NGEN filament at 250C all the time with this printer and I don't believe at that temperature, on the nozzle, the PTFE tube is going to be exposed to a temperature above 230C. I can only tell what the outside of the heatbreak shows, but on the thermal camera, there is a difference of more than 30C between the hot and cold side, seen from the outside. I don't know if I will make a video about this printer yet, as I am very limited in time lately, but I just wanted to tell you this. Thanks for your great reviews and other video's. As always, greetings from the Netherlands.
Oh, I had a lot of pain with extruder without heat sink (I did not know it is a thing). On long prints PTFE tube heated enough to make PLA viscous. It is harder for extruder to push, it skipped steps. But the worst thing - as soon as printer is switched off, filament solidifies as a plug diameter of tube, so it jammed half of the times.
Yes I'm having the same problem. Also having problem with clogging after long print times. Anything over and hour it clogs. No matter what setting I change same problem.
@@christopherlyons7613 It was custom built printer of 2014. I switched noname hotend to J-head hotend. J head still has PTFE insert, but heatsink made the difference. There are better solutions today probably, but it did the job.
I just ordered the new hermera for this printer and already fixed the holder this printer has been as quiet as the original prusa and same print quality and hopefully now much better on soft tpu filaments as well I dont ever use filament runout sensors as I feel if someone needs that they cant do basic math and I may switch over to a removable bed surface and this printer will be a large print volume that can handle it all
There's something weird about that planter model. When I scaled it down to fit my MSLA print bed, there were many floating islands in the base. I figured I (or the software) was crazy, but sure enough, I got a failed print due to lots of little floaters in my resin.
Instead of replacing the spool holder... you could just replace the allenhead screws with screws that have a wing head. I think they available locally at Lowe's or online for sure.
@@3DPrintingNerd Wow your one of the only youtubers I have seen that respond to older videos not one month old but year old videos. Love the videos. Thinking of getting this printer to tinker with next thinking of getting a bmg-m on it.
Hi first of all I’d like to say fantastic video Second I hope someone will be able to answer If you bought a 3D printer and the temperature maxed out at say 250 degrees would it be possible to increase the working temperature to that what is needed to print using a higher temperature filament just an honest question
hey I bought this printer shortly after your first video on it and I've noticed some differences, most notably that all of the 3d printed parts on Joel's machine are injected molded on mine, the fan that's mounted on the side of the aluminum body on Joel's printer is mounted on the bottom of mine, and the filament runout sensor is different. from what I can tell these changes were made to fix known problems, like broken printed parts, loud side fan, and a bad filament runout sensor. I hope this was helpful for anyone planning to buy this printer.
Did we ever get a follow up video or message about this printer? I'm just now joining the 3d printing space and am heavily considering buying this one.
I'm still waiting to try mine out. I ordered 2 and never received them. First one from Amazon tracking trail ends at a US facility in Portland Oregon. Got a refund from Amazon. Second one ordered from gearbest over a month ago. Got notification it was left on my porch day after Thanksgiving. I was home that day. Never seen a ups guy or the item. Filled complaint as yet to get any help from ups.
Replace the hex head bolts on the spool holder with some thumb screws maybe? I watched this when you first aired it but I like your videos enough to rewatch them lol.
I am currently awating delivery of this printer, I have heard a lot of good stuff about it, and as you mentioned some not so good stuff, but the not so good stuff isn't that bad
I wonder if this style of printer could be made even more stable, if the frame was mounted just a little differently.. What if the vertical side rails were mounted perpendicular to the top rail, so that the top rail screwed into the middle of the double wide rail, rather than through it's side. Or to describe it a different way, the screws that mount the frame to the base would be next to each other in a front-to-back orientation, rather than side-to-side. If they did that the top of the frame would be more stable from wobble, and they'd only have to make minor changes to how the rollers mount.. But I've yet to see a single printer in this format try that option.
Cheap and unknown PTFE tubing typically degrades at the range Joel mentions in the video, however a high quality virgin tubing from someone reputable like Dupont is spec'd for *continuous* use at up to 260C and underwriter's laboratory demonstrated no mechanical degredation even when used at 285C ( source: Dupont's technical handbook for their PTFE resin www.structuredweb.com/sw/swchannel/CustomerCenter/documents/6673/15640/Teflon_PFA_Handbook.pdf )
I had the impression that this model is good at printing fast, because of volcano hotend and rigidity. Also they seem to have a heavily modified firmware. I wonder if it is a good candidate for a 32bit board upgrade, because that would handle directional changes at higher speeds better.
I'm new to 3d Printing. Fairly computer competent and very mechanically competent. I want to make parts for the RC Crawling Hobby and others. First small scale pieces, but my goal is to be able to design body panels as well as interior panels in fullscale detail to create a fully operational piece, with opening doors, roll down windows, opening trunks and hoods, working retracting ragtops, etc. A 3d Printer will make these things possible, but that is where I am clueless. So most items will be not too large, but body panels, etc. will get pretty big, especially if I make 1/8th scale items and larger, which I would like to do for 1/5th scale F1 Rcs. Anyways, that is the basic scope of my desired outcome. So which 3D Printers would you recommend? Some pieces may be as large as 24 inches in length. I could make them 2 piece to go together which his something I already considered, however, if I could, doing them one piece would be preferable. Looking forward to your suggestions. Also, I am not opposed to using 2 machines, one for the large items and one for the smaller items, where I could run the large one doubling out parts when not printing a large item. Lastly, I would like to print in high strength product. Nylon, Nylon/CF CF, or other similar tough products. Thank for any info tips and direction you may be able to point me in.
I kinda want one of these. I love my CR10 but for it to do ABS it would need a bit of work. I have my i3 mega set up for ABS but it can't do large prints. This machine however could with an enclosure. Of course I would upgrade that hotend though.
@@Nvjklggggff got my Capricorn delivered today from : www.solunoid.dk/3d-tilbehor/capricorn-xs-series-ptfe-bowden-metermal?search_query=ptfe&results=32
@@Nvjklggggff found it on eBay.de aswell, But went with Solunoid.dk, that is local to me... and i know the owner😁 Be aware of cloned PTFE's on ebay though.
You should do a followup for the newest version. The performance is fantastic on the one I got just a couple of weeks ago. I also immediately replaced the stock ptfe liner with capricorn because of your findings!
I have a question concerning the X1 V4. I have one of these and I am really happy with it for the most part. One thing that I found is that my extruder stepper motor is running at 70C which I am sure is too hot. However I also noted that the aluminum plate that holds the wheel on the x axis gets over 50C. This temperature delta by my calculations could cause the wheels to move over 1mm further appart which I am sure would cause some degradation in print quality along the Z axis. My question is what is the temperature that your extruder stepper motor is operating at? Yes I adjusted the roller tension. What I also found is that this unwanted excessive heat causes the cold end to get hot enough to deform the filament profile, cause jams and damage the PTFE as well.
Cool, Joel. I disagree with those who dis you for reviewing an "old version" of this printer. There are thousands of these early versions out there, I'm sure. So those with them will benefit greatly from this video. Those with newer versions (3 iterations so far) will have a starting place if they have similar (unfixed) issues. Thanks!
That's odd, because I just got mine and have never printed anything in my life before.. I set it up and in 40ish minutes I was printing. I now have 50+ hours and zero failures.
Great Fuzzy Video good information , was thinking of getting this machine but decided not to, Reason cutting corners is a pain, not interested in rebuilding a machine, so I guess not for me.
That is the BEST spool holder. ALL that anyone needs to do is put small lengths of PVC or Copper tubing over the bearings wide enough for the widest spoole and never adjust it again. small spools won't fall over and changing is great.
How to bed leveling in the centre? I mean in ReadyPrint/Tool/Leveling there are 5 option, for the first four there is a knob below the bed for leveling, but when I push the fifth (the centre) how can I make the correct leveling for that point?
I've had my Sidewinder for over a year now and I love it! I went pretty much straight to an all metal hot end, and it has been fantastic! Im still learning all about 3d printing, but I love it! Ive been quite worried a couple times that is stopped printing when I was in another room. That goes to show how quiet it is!!!
Got my Sidewinder X1 last week, first thing i did was replace the tube in the hot end with the Cap. Tubing. Printer has been awesome .
Got a link for where you got the ptfe tubing?
where can I buy the tube
Am I the only one who couldn't help but smile seeing filament just "coming down from above"?
Joel, the production if your videos is evolving and is top notch, thank you
Thank YOU!
Yours is the third and most comprehensive video review of this machine I’ve watched. Every single user had a different issue that needed addressing. I wonder if troubleshooting would be beyond a beginner like me? Thanks for taking the time to go back and update before posting.
I got one of these a couple months ago, and I was at first super impressed. I was printing PLA and PETG parts like a champ, and the setup seemed basically bulletproof for about 3 weeks. However, I am an engineer and I really wanted some durable functional parts, so I decided to try Nylon. This became a massive problem with the stock extruder, but not for the reason you might think. I was cautiously printing around 245-255 not wanting the PTFE to break down but I actually had the ribbon cable on the X axis fail not once, but twice. I've also had the vertical axis cable fail once though this was from the bed rubbing on it and can easily be fixed with some tape. I'm not new at all to 3D printing, but I am new to modifying my printers, and in my attempt to modify the extruder and replace the heatbrake I ended up snapping it off in the volcano style block in an attempt to clear a jam in a really cheap chinese heatbrake. This was entirely user error, but I will say it is a bit of a PITA to replace the extruder because of how little room there is to turn it and the wires are rather stiff, meaning I was constantly afraid I'd break them. In fact I did break the thermister by twisting the wires a bit too much, and the sensor came free of its casing.
Things I like: The AC heat bed heats up stupidly fast even to 90C or above. Super quiet. Direct drive is a big plus for me, I've had little to no stringing issues. Customer service is very nice and sent me free replacement parts like the cables. Thermal runaway enabled by default. Really reliably prints PLA/PETG. Bed surface worked awesome with just hairspray. Can print really fast, I default all my PLA prints to 90mm/s. Volcano heat block compatible with large nozzles to make better use of the huge volume.
Issues: Reliability of the cables. Occasionally I'd have a random thermal runaway error stop a print even with it working fine before (early sign of failing cable?). Short fragile wires to the board on the extruder. Annoying spoolholder. Firmware default will max out at 270C, if you replace with all metal you pretty much must modify that.
I'm sure once I have my all metal setup running and do some PID tuning it will become a workhorse again, save maybe for the cables. But they aren't too hard to replace and I probably got through 3kg of filament before my first failure. I've successfully done some 8 hour plus prints and had no issues with PLA and PETG. If all you print is below 230C on the nozzle then it is a beast of a machine. But if you want to print Nylon without mods and don't need the build volume or huge nozzles, a Prusa may be better. I've got a thermister, a microswiss all metal heatbrake, and a genuine E3d Volcano block on order. With those I bet I'll have a much better time with high temperature printing and be loving this thing again.
Joel you are awesome, and so its your editor. All your last videos have an amazing editing quaility. My congrats for you both
hello i'm from Portugal, i had the same problem with my first 3d printer, this in 2015, i was still noob in 3d printer, but i already knew a little about 3d printers i think i lost half a day to deal with the problem, but I had spare parts of all kinds, so it was easy to replace, this can be a big problem for those who buy for the first time and do not have spare parts
I really like your videos, keep up the good work
big hugs
from Portugal for you and your entire team
Ok honestly you devin and makers muse are my top thee go to channels I learn the most from you guys I’m not just learning with every episode I’m also being entertained in the sense I’m having fun learning haha 😊😊😊
Thank you for your honest review! This printer is on my radar for awhile and now I'm convinced this is a proper buy.
Have you tried it out yet? If so, how is it?
Is it good?
I prefer ptfe-lined hotends especially for PLA. Using a high temp PTFE like Capricorn is the way to go. It handles PETG like a champ as well. Great review but as others have mentioned, if you wait longer than a few months to review a printer, maybe consider exchanging it for a new production version or build both (if the first one is from early production) for a comparison (my preference). Early adopters benefit by seeing the improvements to implement by viewing a current production model, and prospective buyers see what they are actually receiving with a current production model.
Hi Joel, thank you for your review.
I recently received this printer. I purchased a refurbished one. I was blown away by the quality of the prints I am getting. Unfortunately it continually quits mid print due to thermal runaway being triggered. I have tried to contact the Artillery website, the Ali Express store, and the person that shipped it. The latter being the only one that responded. I changed the ribbon with the provided spare. (That connects the gantry to the base). It has failed twice with in a couples hours on the second print. Is there anything you can do to help? I really like this printer and just want to keep it running without errors. Thank you, Chris
@@ImaginativeFabrication I don't have this particular printer but if it keeps happening mid print have a look at the print fan speed settings in your slicer. It might be increasing the fan speed at a certain layer time which may be blowing on your hot end causing it to cool down and not be able to keep up. Try decreasing it by 30% and see if it happens again
@@tcw95NZ thank you! I'll give it a try. I've never had that problem on any of my other printers. I use Simplify 3d and haven't set up any incremental fan changes. I'll double check to see if they were in the x1 profile I downloaded.
@@ImaginativeFabrication It would also probably help to tune the PID for the hotend with the fan on. Assuming the printer runs Marlin firmware, you can send M106 S255 to turn the fan on. The number after the S is the fan speed. It is a PWM value though, not a percentage so 255 is 100%. I would set the fan to whatever percentage you most commonly use. After the fan is on send an M303 command. That would go something like this: M303 E0 C5 S200 U. This will autotune your E0 heater (the hotend) at 200C (S) for 5 cycles (C) and then enable the new PID settings (U). If those settings work you can send M500 to save them to the firmware. You would do this through a slicer or some other software that can send Gcode commands to the printer. You can also put all of these commands in a text file (each one on its own line and in the order I put them in) and save it as a .gcode file instead of a .txt file then run it from the SD card.
@@ImaginativeFabrication post in the official facebook group. Artillery are very active there and usually try to help
Of course. No wonder my car wrecking company called Bomb Parts failed.
Just a quick add-almost all the issues have been addressed in their updates. Spool holder adaptor for bridging the gap is already on Thingiverse FYI there are at least 2 versions out now so no need to make your own. One update that just isn't good, the flat ribbon no longer has a positive lock on the newer models (not sure why they did this) but the caveat is that now you need to print a cable stay to avoid it coming loose (on carriage) over time with use which can cause all types of issues. Great Video as always!
I just got my printer in the mail (369.00 US), and I'm waiting for my filament to arrive (should have ordered them BOTH at the same time)! I will have to check out that tube and see if I need to replace that after I start printing. P. S. This is the first printer I've ever had! Thanks for the great video!
Joel,
I truly appreciate all opf the great work you do. As a newbie to 3D prionting, the information you offer is very helpful.
There are however so many printers to choose from, it's hard to decide which one may be best.
May I offer a suggestion? A car RUclipsr called Doiug De Muro gives each car a Doug Score. He gives points for a variety of features etc. It's very helpful, as it seperates the wheat from the chaf.
I think it would be great if you printed the same standard file for each printer you test and rate the time taken, the quality of the results. Also value for money/cost, pros and cons, ease of assembly(if appropriate), build volume, before and after sales support and whatever other features you deem important. A standardized 'test', would make it much easier to hone in on which is the right printer for your application.
Yoo been watching this guy for the last 3 days for 3d printer reviews cause he the realest.
The USB thing (I mean the motion during skirt layer you talk about) is something usual when you don't have CRC check while doing memory read. For example it should parse the g-code line like G1 X30.000 but due to read error from USB it sees G1 X(something unusable) so it interprets it as zero or something else that is incorrect so it goes to another position then reads the next line of g-code correctly and goes to correct place after that. to reduce the possibility of this issue you need to reformat the USB stick and recreate the file. I have had this issue many years ago when I was designing and making my own 3d printer.
Really nice to find my chainmail design in the video! I completely agree with you, there is room for improvement with the chainmail print quality, but I'm quite sure it's alls about the slicing settings. Hardware looks really good!
Do you know if I could make a custom size of it?
Hey Joel, when the gcode is acting weird like that, it is usually the memory that is at fault. Try a different USB drive and I bet it will work. :)
Hug each other more? Oh the naïveté of 2019.
My Artillery Sidewinder has been working fantastic. Had only one fail when the print came of the bed. So far, I am very happy with it
Thanks for all your great videos--big fan. I started all of a sudden getting clogging on all my prints with my Genius. Filament just stopped coming through anywhere from 10% to 50% of the job during EVERY print, and in prints that had worked fine many times before. Typically the printer was continuing, "printing" in thin air with no filament coming out. I found that I could often get the filament to start flowing again by pushing the filament through from the top by hand (although the print was already ruined).
So far this sounds like the situation I´ve seen in many videos on RUclips, but wait...
1. I´m using an all metal heatbreak, so no PTFE anywhere down where the filament is molten, and I changed the heatbreak and the nozzle several times. Also, this happens with 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles. I´ve also done several cold pulls, even with nylon as you suggested in another video.
2. Whenever this happened the extruder gear was just wearing away the filament as it turned in one place until I stopped it (that´s where all that ash-like dust comes from). I tried adjusting the spring tension on the extruder gear, but teeth marks on the filament could be very deep or hardly visible and it didn't make any difference.
3. I used filaments I had successfully used before (all PLA), even new ones still in their sealed plastic bags.
4. I reduced the retraction from 5mm to 2mm.
5. Of course, each time I checked that the filament spool was spinning freely.
So, anyone have any comments or suggestions?
I'd recommend to upgrade to Capricorn PTFE on any Boden extruder or wherever it might be used!
Finally! Hoped for long that youre gonna review this machine.
10:43 The Longer 3D Orange 10 has a little space around the SD card slot like the case hole is slightly bigger than the actual slot. So at least twice I actually got my SD card lost inside the machine because I thought it was in the slot but it wasn't.
That wall is so beautiful that you just HAD to keep it in focus on the A roll. :P
If I didn't already have a CR-10s modded with direct drive and tuned to high heaven I would get this printer in a heartbeat. The sturdier build, encased base and electronics and how insanely quiet it is makes it, probably, one of the best printers you can get for the money right now.
The issues seem to have all been addressed with later revisions.. the sheet metal cutout, the odd movement at start with USB drive, and I just left one side of the spool holder slightly loose so you can just slide it to fit the other spool.
i just recieved one for printing nhs visors and its been amazing, i just ordered a second one
Thanks for the additional information. I was considering this in addition to/replacement of my CR10S Pro because of all the trouble I've been having with mine. But I've had to tinker so much with my printer that I'm just about done with tinkering with printers for life and I don't care to tinker with yet another one. I still need to add mod to syncronize belts like this one has.
Should we talk about the silicon heater which has already delaminated itself from the print bed when you showed the cables from the back?
Many people receive their printer with that issue. Push it back up when the print bed is warm and it doesn't seem to come back down again.
Thanks Joel, saved me today when the PTF tube clogged, thanks again.
For the spool holder just righting the half with the sensor. Then loosely tighten the other side. Then you should be able to slide it back and forth to fit different size spools and the holder not move. I have this machine and that is the solution that works for me.
My current and only machine is optimized for high speed, big parts, and ABS, but not surface quality.
I saw another prominent review of this one and thought it would be an ideal companion to the one I already have.
Now that I see the downsides of the X1, it doesn't look perfect any more, but looks like it still works for me very well.
Thanks, this is good stuff.
I had a similar problem with my Anycubic. formatting the Stick/SD Card solved the Problem. 😬👌
Focus damnit :) Your camera focus is on the back wall instead on Joel.. just saying.. a bit annoying. Otherwise thumbs up!
He really needs a camera man...
It's not like he has one...
We could continue this ;) I mean.. it's not like anyone is moving here.. put it on manual, focus on Joel.. set it and forget it.. what seems to be problem here??? Did the cat bump the tripod? jeeez :D
"Focus, ya fuck!" -ave
I check my streaming resolution thinking it hadn’t yet kicked up to 1080p but yep, it was, and out of focus.
Awesome vid man
Also the "don't forget to hug each other more" comment cracked me up since of Covid
Thank You so much for this video! Great info about this printer. I just ordered mine and it should be here this coming Friday.
@
3D Printing Nerd In regards to the spool holder. How about changing the hex bolts to Wing nut style bolts so you can just use your fingers to adjust it?
I just bought a dual z upgrade for my cr10 but now I'm thinking I might try and attach a belt to the top to connect the 2 threaded rods like this printer. Seems like a pretty useful idea
The error mentioned at 11:35 also occurs with my Artillery Genius. Regardless of the USB stick used. It seems to occur with Slic3r version 1.3.0 and higher. Using Slic3r 1.2.9 and Cura this problem does not occur.
Interessting conclusion about the teflon tube, i had the same problem but after a nozzle Switch its were gone, too.
The bigger problem for me is the hotend heater. After 3hours of printing, right after calibration, the heater did go south. And with the connector type they thoose for the transition pcb i hadnt the right one to crimp another heater to it! The choosen connector is the JST 3,96mm and as far as i know there is no manufacturer who is making thermistors or heaters with this kind of connector. The way better way for a plattform would have been to choose the same connectors as E3D (micro-fit 3.0) to have a easy swappable ecosystem!
Downside is the model you have is pretty old alot of the negative things you touched on have either been fixed already, or dont exist anymore. Anyways, you might want to double check the bore on the nozzle- earlier versions had a few that were shipped with 3mm nozzles instead of 1.75. As usual Joel, great video but the information (for the most part) is outdated now. Ive had machines now in the fixed v1 (post evnovo logo), v2's, and v3's and am glad to report they are the reason our Prusas are starting to collect dust. Reach out to the community (or me even) if you need anything brother.
Do you recommend this one over the creality CR's?
Tell me more.
Thu Nell Ⓥ V4 has the reset button just to the right of the LCD. I don't know of any way to determine the other versions.
Awesome job Joel and Sean... Keep up the great work! 🤚
Christopher Estelow thank you!
Nice Sidewinder review! The newest version 4 is available from AliExpress only and only when you pick Shipping from the China warehouse. It has a reset button next to the LCD panel as well as other improvements. The version on Amazon is Version 3. They told me directly. I was thinking of adding this printer to my arsenal as well.
An all metal hot end with bond tech extruder and bl touch would be great addition for this 3d printer .
I will probably get this printer. I like to tinker. I like the large build volume. Should be fun. Thank you for the video.
I have had the "runaway hotend" before. Turned out that the ribbon cables going from my SD / LCD were too close to the PSU. It was causing some crosstalk and apparently it would just go for a walk randomly....
All I had to do to fix it was to zip tie the leads farther away from the PSU.
Great video. Unfortunately, the hot end design and the non-traditionally frame that wouldn't allow for z braces make it a no go for me. Thanks a lot for the info.
Hi Joel,
I have the same printer, but I have got the version 4 (at the time of writing, the latest version).
In this printer I have, there is no problem with the sheet metal anymore, the holes are just big enough to use the SD card or USB stick. Also, the USB stick GCODE behaves just the same as the SD card GCODE, I guess that problem is also fixed (or at least, I don't have that problem). When I bought the printer, I levelled the bed, I didn't do anything about it since and now, about 30 prints later, it is still a perfect level as it should be.
The spool holder at the top, yeah. That's a problem. I don't like it that much, but it's not a big thing. The cable restraint still is not good, you have to print your own part to make it better and the hot end still uses a low cost, crappy PTFE inner liner tube. That said, I print NGEN filament at 250C all the time with this printer and I don't believe at that temperature, on the nozzle, the PTFE tube is going to be exposed to a temperature above 230C. I can only tell what the outside of the heatbreak shows, but on the thermal camera, there is a difference of more than 30C between the hot and cold side, seen from the outside.
I don't know if I will make a video about this printer yet, as I am very limited in time lately, but I just wanted to tell you this.
Thanks for your great reviews and other video's. As always, greetings from the Netherlands.
Print this mod for the spool and you wont need to ever move it again. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3850399
Oh, I had a lot of pain with extruder without heat sink (I did not know it is a thing). On long prints PTFE tube heated enough to make PLA viscous. It is harder for extruder to push, it skipped steps. But the worst thing - as soon as printer is switched off, filament solidifies as a plug diameter of tube, so it jammed half of the times.
Yes I'm having the same problem. Also having problem with clogging after long print times. Anything over and hour it clogs. No matter what setting I change same problem.
@@ASSOpid I broke that extruder at some point, and bought an alternative with better cooling. No problems since then.
@@brine1986 I think I'm going to do the same thing. Thanks
What extruder did you put on it? And have you upgraded the hotend to a completely metal one yet? If so, what did you use?
@@christopherlyons7613 It was custom built printer of 2014. I switched noname hotend to J-head hotend. J head still has PTFE insert, but heatsink made the difference. There are better solutions today probably, but it did the job.
I just ordered the new hermera for this printer and already fixed the holder this printer has been as quiet as the original prusa and same print quality and hopefully now much better on soft tpu filaments as well I dont ever use filament runout sensors as I feel if someone needs that they cant do basic math and I may switch over to a removable bed surface and this printer will be a large print volume that can handle it all
There's something weird about that planter model. When I scaled it down to fit my MSLA print bed, there were many floating islands in the base. I figured I (or the software) was crazy, but sure enough, I got a failed print due to lots of little floaters in my resin.
PTFE can survive up to 250-260C It will offgas which could be unsafe for avian pets but the actual PTFE will last hundreds of hours before deforming.
If it kills birds there's a good chance it's not too good for you, either. There's a reason coal miners used to keep canaries in the mine.
Instead of replacing the spool holder... you could just replace the allenhead screws with screws that have a wing head. I think they available locally at Lowe's or online for sure.
That's a FANTASTIC idea
@@3DPrintingNerd Wow your one of the only youtubers I have seen that respond to older videos not one month old but year old videos. Love the videos. Thinking of getting this printer to tinker with next thinking of getting a bmg-m on it.
My Ender 3 Pro had problems to. Changed the heatsink cable with the Apricorn one and happy life since!
Hi first of all I’d like to say fantastic video
Second I hope someone will be able to answer If you bought a 3D printer and the temperature maxed out at say 250 degrees would it be possible to increase the working temperature to that what is needed to print using a higher temperature filament just an honest question
The Monoprice Mini select was designed like that. My first printer. It gave me problems too. Good for learning how to work on them though!
Can u give us an explanation over the quality of prints with flexible materials?
I like this machine and have to change Bowden tube out is no big deal but I would like to see more machines coming out with auto bed leveling.
Wow. I had this exact type of nozzle blockage today on my original CR-10. Pain in the ass to fix.
hey I bought this printer shortly after your first video on it and I've noticed some differences, most notably that all of the 3d printed parts on Joel's machine are injected molded on mine, the fan that's mounted on the side of the aluminum body on Joel's printer is mounted on the bottom of mine, and the filament runout sensor is different. from what I can tell these changes were made to fix known problems, like broken printed parts, loud side fan, and a bad filament runout sensor. I hope this was helpful for anyone planning to buy this printer.
Did we ever get a follow up video or message about this printer? I'm just now joining the 3d printing space and am heavily considering buying this one.
That partly printed deadpool looks awfully familiar. I've had 2-3 fail around the same layer height on my Prusa mk3. Although not due to jamming.
I'm excited.. I bought one a few weeks back and waiting for it to show up
I'm still waiting to try mine out. I ordered 2 and never received them. First one from Amazon tracking trail ends at a US facility in Portland Oregon. Got a refund from Amazon. Second one ordered from gearbest over a month ago. Got notification it was left on my porch day after Thanksgiving. I was home that day. Never seen a ups guy or the item. Filled complaint as yet to get any help from ups.
Replace the hex head bolts on the spool holder with some thumb screws maybe? I watched this when you first aired it but I like your videos enough to rewatch them lol.
That’s a fantastic idea!
Thanks wanted to know how well the sidewinder would print
Hey man, I met you at maker faire and I was super nervous talking to you but I just wanted to say thanks for being cool. 😁
Thank YOU for finding me and meeting me! #highfive
At 4:49 you mention Filament Fremzy's Prusaslicer profile for this printer. Do you have a link to that? Thanks!
Hi
BlackDragonBE!
Did you find the profile by any chance?
also looking, haven't been able to find it either
Anyone find the profile? Family bought me this Sidewinder for Father's Day, woohoo !
I am planning to buy my first 3D printer. I first watched Ender 3 v2.
Which printer would you recommend for a beginner?
I am currently awating delivery of this printer, I have heard a lot of good stuff about it, and as you mentioned some not so good stuff, but the not so good stuff isn't that bad
Thanks for the printer review! Great editing and info!
Daniel .Power thank you, and thanks for watching!
@3D Printing Nerd
Any chance I could get a link to that cool green planter from the video? thanks
format the usb stick, it resolves de problema. That efect can apen with sd card also.
Thinking about getting this printer. good review, thank you! I saw your brother in Thailand on U-tube
What size did you use for the PTFE tubing, 1M or 2M?
I wonder if this style of printer could be made even more stable, if the frame was mounted just a little differently.. What if the vertical side rails were mounted perpendicular to the top rail, so that the top rail screwed into the middle of the double wide rail, rather than through it's side. Or to describe it a different way, the screws that mount the frame to the base would be next to each other in a front-to-back orientation, rather than side-to-side. If they did that the top of the frame would be more stable from wobble, and they'd only have to make minor changes to how the rollers mount.. But I've yet to see a single printer in this format try that option.
Cheap and unknown PTFE tubing typically degrades at the range Joel mentions in the video, however a high quality virgin tubing from someone reputable like Dupont is spec'd for *continuous* use at up to 260C and underwriter's laboratory demonstrated no mechanical degredation even when used at 285C ( source: Dupont's technical handbook for their PTFE resin www.structuredweb.com/sw/swchannel/CustomerCenter/documents/6673/15640/Teflon_PFA_Handbook.pdf )
I had the impression that this model is good at printing fast, because of volcano hotend and rigidity. Also they seem to have a heavily modified firmware. I wonder if it is a good candidate for a 32bit board upgrade, because that would handle directional changes at higher speeds better.
I'm new to 3d Printing. Fairly computer competent and very mechanically competent.
I want to make parts for the RC Crawling Hobby and others. First small scale pieces, but my goal is to be able to design body panels as well as interior panels in fullscale detail to create a fully operational piece, with opening doors, roll down windows, opening trunks and hoods, working retracting ragtops, etc. A 3d Printer will make these things possible, but that is where I am clueless. So most items will be not too large, but body panels, etc. will get pretty big, especially if I make 1/8th scale items and larger, which I would like to do for 1/5th scale F1 Rcs.
Anyways, that is the basic scope of my desired outcome.
So which 3D Printers would you recommend? Some pieces may be as large as 24 inches in length. I could make them 2 piece to go together which his something I already considered, however, if I could, doing them one piece would be preferable.
Looking forward to your suggestions. Also, I am not opposed to using 2 machines, one for the large items and one for the smaller items, where I could run the large one doubling out parts when not printing a large item.
Lastly, I would like to print in high strength product. Nylon, Nylon/CF CF, or other similar tough products.
Thank for any info tips and direction you may be able to point me in.
What is the purpose of the ptfe tube? To insulate from melting while in the heat sink area?
That’s funny I found that deadpool model a short while ago and the print came out really well. Printed it with a reflective copper color
So uh, why isn't PEEK an option for a liner in consumer 3D printers? Shouldn't _that_ withstand higher temperatures?
Yes,and yuo need an enclousure or a close printer , and a all metal hot end, minimun
Wwwww this is the first printer I have seen! I wonder if they made them any better 😳
Lovely, got it a few days ago and i just love it !!!
I kinda want one of these. I love my CR10 but for it to do ABS it would need a bit of work. I have my i3 mega set up for ABS but it can't do large prints. This machine however could with an enclosure. Of course I would upgrade that hotend though.
Instantly ordered capricorn PTFE While my Artillery is still en-route 😁Thanks Joel !
Can you drop the link?
@@Nvjklggggff got my Capricorn delivered today from : www.solunoid.dk/3d-tilbehor/capricorn-xs-series-ptfe-bowden-metermal?search_query=ptfe&results=32
@@Nvjklggggff found it on eBay.de aswell, But went with Solunoid.dk, that is local to me... and i know the owner😁 Be aware of cloned PTFE's on ebay though.
You should do a followup for the newest version. The performance is fantastic on the one I got just a couple of weeks ago. I also immediately replaced the stock ptfe liner with capricorn because of your findings!
Where did you get the new version from?
would be great having a follow up video with a bigger E3D nozzle
We put a .6 nozzle on it immediately after this video. 😂😂
I have a question concerning the X1 V4. I have one of these and I am really happy with it for the most part. One thing that I found is that my extruder stepper motor is running at 70C which I am sure is too hot. However I also noted that the aluminum plate that holds the wheel on the x axis gets over 50C. This temperature delta by my calculations could cause the wheels to move over 1mm further appart which I am sure would cause some degradation in print quality along the Z axis. My question is what is the temperature that your extruder stepper motor is operating at? Yes I adjusted the roller tension. What I also found is that this unwanted excessive heat causes the cold end to get hot enough to deform the filament profile, cause jams and damage the PTFE as well.
I'm pretty sure using wing screws for the spool support would fix the holder "issue" :)
Or you can print a roller design that fits over their bearings, See this link for a design. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3850399
Cool, Joel. I disagree with those who dis you for reviewing an "old version" of this printer. There are thousands of these early versions out there, I'm sure. So those with them will benefit greatly from this video. Those with newer versions (3 iterations so far) will have a starting place if they have similar (unfixed) issues.
Thanks!
Thank you as always, Ron!
I've been printing with my cr-10 with abs at 355°c with no problems at all it's enclosed as well.
That's odd, because I just got mine and have never printed anything in my life before.. I set it up and in 40ish minutes I was printing. I now have 50+ hours and zero failures.
Great Fuzzy Video good information , was thinking of getting this machine but decided not to, Reason cutting corners is a pain, not interested in rebuilding a machine, so I guess not for me.
That is the BEST spool holder. ALL that anyone needs to do is put small lengths of PVC or Copper tubing over the bearings wide enough for the widest spoole and never adjust it again. small spools won't fall over and changing is great.
Spool mechanism in this is similar to Prusa’s first design. Good idea but bad execution. Love you Prusa and no hate on any of the printing companies
How to bed leveling in the centre? I mean in ReadyPrint/Tool/Leveling there are 5 option, for the first four there is a knob below the bed for leveling, but when I push the fifth (the centre) how can I make the correct leveling for that point?