I got one of these a couple months ago, and I was at first super impressed. I was printing PLA and PETG parts like a champ, and the setup seemed basically bulletproof for about 3 weeks. However, I am an engineer and I really wanted some durable functional parts, so I decided to try Nylon. This became a massive problem with the stock extruder, but not for the reason you might think. I was cautiously printing around 245-255 not wanting the PTFE to break down but I actually had the ribbon cable on the X axis fail not once, but twice. I've also had the vertical axis cable fail once though this was from the bed rubbing on it and can easily be fixed with some tape. I'm not new at all to 3D printing, but I am new to modifying my printers, and in my attempt to modify the extruder and replace the heatbrake I ended up snapping it off in the volcano style block in an attempt to clear a jam in a really cheap chinese heatbrake. This was entirely user error, but I will say it is a bit of a PITA to replace the extruder because of how little room there is to turn it and the wires are rather stiff, meaning I was constantly afraid I'd break them. In fact I did break the thermister by twisting the wires a bit too much, and the sensor came free of its casing. Things I like: The AC heat bed heats up stupidly fast even to 90C or above. Super quiet. Direct drive is a big plus for me, I've had little to no stringing issues. Customer service is very nice and sent me free replacement parts like the cables. Thermal runaway enabled by default. Really reliably prints PLA/PETG. Bed surface worked awesome with just hairspray. Can print really fast, I default all my PLA prints to 90mm/s. Volcano heat block compatible with large nozzles to make better use of the huge volume. Issues: Reliability of the cables. Occasionally I'd have a random thermal runaway error stop a print even with it working fine before (early sign of failing cable?). Short fragile wires to the board on the extruder. Annoying spoolholder. Firmware default will max out at 270C, if you replace with all metal you pretty much must modify that. I'm sure once I have my all metal setup running and do some PID tuning it will become a workhorse again, save maybe for the cables. But they aren't too hard to replace and I probably got through 3kg of filament before my first failure. I've successfully done some 8 hour plus prints and had no issues with PLA and PETG. If all you print is below 230C on the nozzle then it is a beast of a machine. But if you want to print Nylon without mods and don't need the build volume or huge nozzles, a Prusa may be better. I've got a thermister, a microswiss all metal heatbrake, and a genuine E3d Volcano block on order. With those I bet I'll have a much better time with high temperature printing and be loving this thing again.
Really nice to find my chainmail design in the video! I completely agree with you, there is room for improvement with the chainmail print quality, but I'm quite sure it's alls about the slicing settings. Hardware looks really good!
We could continue this ;) I mean.. it's not like anyone is moving here.. put it on manual, focus on Joel.. set it and forget it.. what seems to be problem here??? Did the cat bump the tripod? jeeez :D
Thanks for the additional information. I was considering this in addition to/replacement of my CR10S Pro because of all the trouble I've been having with mine. But I've had to tinker so much with my printer that I'm just about done with tinkering with printers for life and I don't care to tinker with yet another one. I still need to add mod to syncronize belts like this one has.
Interessting conclusion about the teflon tube, i had the same problem but after a nozzle Switch its were gone, too. The bigger problem for me is the hotend heater. After 3hours of printing, right after calibration, the heater did go south. And with the connector type they thoose for the transition pcb i hadnt the right one to crimp another heater to it! The choosen connector is the JST 3,96mm and as far as i know there is no manufacturer who is making thermistors or heaters with this kind of connector. The way better way for a plattform would have been to choose the same connectors as E3D (micro-fit 3.0) to have a easy swappable ecosystem!
Downside is the model you have is pretty old alot of the negative things you touched on have either been fixed already, or dont exist anymore. Anyways, you might want to double check the bore on the nozzle- earlier versions had a few that were shipped with 3mm nozzles instead of 1.75. As usual Joel, great video but the information (for the most part) is outdated now. Ive had machines now in the fixed v1 (post evnovo logo), v2's, and v3's and am glad to report they are the reason our Prusas are starting to collect dust. Reach out to the community (or me even) if you need anything brother.
I recently received this printer. I purchased a refurbished one. I was blown away by the quality of the prints I am getting. Unfortunately it continually quits mid print due to thermal runaway being triggered. I have tried to contact the Artillery website, the Ali Express store, and the person that shipped it. The latter being the only one that responded. I changed the ribbon with the provided spare. (That connects the gantry to the base). It has failed twice with in a couples hours on the second print. Is there anything you can do to help? I really like this printer and just want to keep it running without errors. Thank you, Chris
@@ImaginativeFabrication I don't have this particular printer but if it keeps happening mid print have a look at the print fan speed settings in your slicer. It might be increasing the fan speed at a certain layer time which may be blowing on your hot end causing it to cool down and not be able to keep up. Try decreasing it by 30% and see if it happens again
@@tcw95NZ thank you! I'll give it a try. I've never had that problem on any of my other printers. I use Simplify 3d and haven't set up any incremental fan changes. I'll double check to see if they were in the x1 profile I downloaded.
@@ImaginativeFabrication It would also probably help to tune the PID for the hotend with the fan on. Assuming the printer runs Marlin firmware, you can send M106 S255 to turn the fan on. The number after the S is the fan speed. It is a PWM value though, not a percentage so 255 is 100%. I would set the fan to whatever percentage you most commonly use. After the fan is on send an M303 command. That would go something like this: M303 E0 C5 S200 U. This will autotune your E0 heater (the hotend) at 200C (S) for 5 cycles (C) and then enable the new PID settings (U). If those settings work you can send M500 to save them to the firmware. You would do this through a slicer or some other software that can send Gcode commands to the printer. You can also put all of these commands in a text file (each one on its own line and in the order I put them in) and save it as a .gcode file instead of a .txt file then run it from the SD card.
I've had my Sidewinder for over a year now and I love it! I went pretty much straight to an all metal hot end, and it has been fantastic! Im still learning all about 3d printing, but I love it! Ive been quite worried a couple times that is stopped printing when I was in another room. That goes to show how quiet it is!!!
I prefer ptfe-lined hotends especially for PLA. Using a high temp PTFE like Capricorn is the way to go. It handles PETG like a champ as well. Great review but as others have mentioned, if you wait longer than a few months to review a printer, maybe consider exchanging it for a new production version or build both (if the first one is from early production) for a comparison (my preference). Early adopters benefit by seeing the improvements to implement by viewing a current production model, and prospective buyers see what they are actually receiving with a current production model.
Replace the hex head bolts on the spool holder with some thumb screws maybe? I watched this when you first aired it but I like your videos enough to rewatch them lol.
I'm still waiting to try mine out. I ordered 2 and never received them. First one from Amazon tracking trail ends at a US facility in Portland Oregon. Got a refund from Amazon. Second one ordered from gearbest over a month ago. Got notification it was left on my porch day after Thanksgiving. I was home that day. Never seen a ups guy or the item. Filled complaint as yet to get any help from ups.
Hi first of all I’d like to say fantastic video Second I hope someone will be able to answer If you bought a 3D printer and the temperature maxed out at say 250 degrees would it be possible to increase the working temperature to that what is needed to print using a higher temperature filament just an honest question
Did we ever get a follow up video or message about this printer? I'm just now joining the 3d printing space and am heavily considering buying this one.
You should do a followup for the newest version. The performance is fantastic on the one I got just a couple of weeks ago. I also immediately replaced the stock ptfe liner with capricorn because of your findings!
I had the impression that this model is good at printing fast, because of volcano hotend and rigidity. Also they seem to have a heavily modified firmware. I wonder if it is a good candidate for a 32bit board upgrade, because that would handle directional changes at higher speeds better.
Thats strange about printing from the USB. I've had this printer for about 4 months and have printed exclusively from the USB and haven't had that issue, I'm guessing that perhaps it's a firmware issue. With that, I've been printing for 8 years, currently have 3 printers and I have to say that this is, hands down the best printer I have and have owned. The detail that I can get in my lithophanes with this printer continually amazes me.
I have to disagree with your recommendation Mr. Printing Nerd. If it was under $350 and needed a few things out of the box like my HICTOP i3 5 years ago, sure. However, there are lower cost printers out there that don't need to be repaired for faulty engineering. No one should buy this at > $350. The fact that there are screws not seating in the frame is a huge red flag that their manufacturing is low precision/quality.
Just a quick add-almost all the issues have been addressed in their updates. Spool holder adaptor for bridging the gap is already on Thingiverse FYI there are at least 2 versions out now so no need to make your own. One update that just isn't good, the flat ribbon no longer has a positive lock on the newer models (not sure why they did this) but the caveat is that now you need to print a cable stay to avoid it coming loose (on carriage) over time with use which can cause all types of issues. Great Video as always!
Dangit Joel! I was just arguing with myself about what printer I want between the Sidewinder and the Elegoo Mars, (I know I know two totally different machines but yeah..) I had finally decided on the Mars and then you release this.. lol Back to arguing with myself.
Cheap and unknown PTFE tubing typically degrades at the range Joel mentions in the video, however a high quality virgin tubing from someone reputable like Dupont is spec'd for *continuous* use at up to 260C and underwriter's laboratory demonstrated no mechanical degredation even when used at 285C ( source: Dupont's technical handbook for their PTFE resin www.structuredweb.com/sw/swchannel/CustomerCenter/documents/6673/15640/Teflon_PFA_Handbook.pdf )
I just got my printer in the mail (369.00 US), and I'm waiting for my filament to arrive (should have ordered them BOTH at the same time)! I will have to check out that tube and see if I need to replace that after I start printing. P. S. This is the first printer I've ever had! Thanks for the great video!
I kinda want one of these. I love my CR10 but for it to do ABS it would need a bit of work. I have my i3 mega set up for ABS but it can't do large prints. This machine however could with an enclosure. Of course I would upgrade that hotend though.
I own one, It's my first 3D printer so I cannot compare it with another printer, But after 1 year, the printer it's been not working for more than 6 months...first, a cable burnt, then a component broke, thermistor, a connector, another cable,....oh man, this is annoying. Technical support is kind and helpful but they send from china and takes 1-2 months to arrive...I guess this is what you get when you buy a cheap Chinese thing so no complaints :)
It looks like a never ending sea of videos that have printers that need upgrades. To me, all printers are made better and more reliable with upgrades you can buy or make yourself. Cheap components make the printer available at low $$$ price points. You get it home knowing you will have to make upgrades eventually, but you have one home. If I were looking at the perfect printer, I couldn't afford it. Maybe put the Micro Swiss bowden extruder upgrade.
The USB thing (I mean the motion during skirt layer you talk about) is something usual when you don't have CRC check while doing memory read. For example it should parse the g-code line like G1 X30.000 but due to read error from USB it sees G1 X(something unusable) so it interprets it as zero or something else that is incorrect so it goes to another position then reads the next line of g-code correctly and goes to correct place after that. to reduce the possibility of this issue you need to reformat the USB stick and recreate the file. I have had this issue many years ago when I was designing and making my own 3d printer.
@ 3D Printing Nerd In regards to the spool holder. How about changing the hex bolts to Wing nut style bolts so you can just use your fingers to adjust it?
@@EarlMiller At 15:30 he says it doesnt have a heatsink and tbh, i dont see any way how a heatsink should go onto there without having bad thermal conductivity, theres nothing indicating any sort of contact point
I assure you, theres been a heatsink and fan- its mounted on the left side. Look at any image of the printer and it will become clear. The cooling for that part is separate from the shaft. You might scoff at the design, but weve had thousands of hours on these machines, and it hasnt been a problem- if theres bad thermal conductivity, we havent seen it. (shrug) We dont print slow either- average 80-100mms all day, every day.
hi, i got a problem on 3d printing a 1.5 modules(80 teeths or above) bevel gear. Especailly i saw my 3d printer which i had. It failed to print the last stage which is near the top bevel teeth. It just won't stick on it. Do you think you can print it and make a video with it. Give me some advice with it.
Hi, can i know the retraction settings? Length and speed, i had some problem with stringing , already low the temp to 198C and length 8mm with 75mm/s retrac speed l, thankyou
I'm new to 3d Printing. Fairly computer competent and very mechanically competent. I want to make parts for the RC Crawling Hobby and others. First small scale pieces, but my goal is to be able to design body panels as well as interior panels in fullscale detail to create a fully operational piece, with opening doors, roll down windows, opening trunks and hoods, working retracting ragtops, etc. A 3d Printer will make these things possible, but that is where I am clueless. So most items will be not too large, but body panels, etc. will get pretty big, especially if I make 1/8th scale items and larger, which I would like to do for 1/5th scale F1 Rcs. Anyways, that is the basic scope of my desired outcome. So which 3D Printers would you recommend? Some pieces may be as large as 24 inches in length. I could make them 2 piece to go together which his something I already considered, however, if I could, doing them one piece would be preferable. Looking forward to your suggestions. Also, I am not opposed to using 2 machines, one for the large items and one for the smaller items, where I could run the large one doubling out parts when not printing a large item. Lastly, I would like to print in high strength product. Nylon, Nylon/CF CF, or other similar tough products. Thank for any info tips and direction you may be able to point me in.
This is the problem with 3d printing. A fad. Making knick knacks not even worth the plastic they are printed with, and machines that have too many issues
The issues seem to have all been addressed with later revisions.. the sheet metal cutout, the odd movement at start with USB drive, and I just left one side of the spool holder slightly loose so you can just slide it to fit the other spool.
Bro i need ur help. Which printer is good as I need a quality print as I saw many printer n saw their print n it’s not finished at quality finish. Awaiting for ur reply bro
10:43 The Longer 3D Orange 10 has a little space around the SD card slot like the case hole is slightly bigger than the actual slot. So at least twice I actually got my SD card lost inside the machine because I thought it was in the slot but it wasn't.
I have a V4, but still wouldn't sugest pushing the temp above 230ºC without swapping to an all-metal heatbreak. When PTFE degrades it releases neurotoxic fumes, so I chose not to risk it. The most recent V4 has a Kraken heatbreak, it should not be expensive to make the change. If you only want to print with PLA, the machine will work flawlessly.
Wow this is actually really really good and with this video and aliexpress it seems like it would be very good quality with good customer service. I have an anet a8 and have hardly used it because its got more problems that its worth, its unreliable, just super janky and worst of all supperr loud (probably an easy fix though). My birthday is in a few weeks so I might ask for money towards this, but first I need to tidy my bedroom and make space for it. (I feel like this comment would make more sense if i mention that I'm 15)
@@isaackvasager9957 it's mainly the bed getting everything level and to stick properly and the extruder. I have the popular stick on matt I forgot what it's called but I get it level it works for a few prints and then just stopped being level, also the bed isn't flat so big prints will never work. The extruder jams up something when it slips on the filament or plastic will dry far up the nozel and not remelt and jamming it. It's loud as hell. It's just not that nice to use. I think if I wanted to get it working good I would need a new heat bed and different bed mounting design, and sort of rebuild just checking all the bolts are fine and tensioning the belts. Neaten up the wires to make it feel less janky and more finished design too
@@isaackvasager9957 so after these comments I thought I would have another go at using my printer. I accidentally used the default settings rather than the ones I was told to use by a friend and it worked. Main difference is default was much much slower, I'm guessing the speed from before caused vibrations to rattle everything loose. Prints are still super weak, I noticed infil looked like stringing so I think I need more flow, also the sidewalls are basically clear so more sidewall? I think the main problem with my printer is me being impatient
@@isaackvasager9957 yeah I've just not had much hope with it. I hoped for the slightest bit of success from the start but not getting it demotivated me. After seeing the slight success yesterday I think I'll spend a day at home testing and watching films to pass the time so I don't rush it. Thanks for the motivation
I need some advice .. been watching your channel for some time now and my Raise 3D printer has been having issues lately. It’s a 2016 model and I believe its a hardware issue. I need to purchase a new printer with the same print bed size ,. Roughly 12x12x12. What printer do you recommend ??
I am not sure of the belt with two separate motors. If the Z steppers are not rotating in sync, it feels like one motor will fight with the other. Do other viewers have experience with such an arrangement? I do like my MicroSwiss all metal hot end. Dave.
There is a belt between the two Z motors that keeps everything synchronized, so there's no fighting between the steppers and it all stays in sync. And all of the Z extrusions are 40's (and the XY under the bed is close to a 60!) so this machine is incredibly stable.
Old video, but if anyone still has this USB problem: I had the same problem with either weird movement with a brim enabled, or even weird movement on the first layer outline with the brim disabled. All when printing from USB and only on the first layer. Also 100% repeatable. I've solved this by updating the touch screen (TFT) firmware, NOT the printer firmware itself, just the TFT firmware. The printer is still 100% stock with stock Marlin 1.x as it was shipped. I used the firmware from digant at Thingiverse, thing:4294049. And again, I only updated the TFT firmware, since my printer otherwise prints great and I didn't want to loose any settings etc. Update is as easy as copying files onto a MicroSD card and booting the printer. Works great now.
After sinking hundreds of hours I'll never get back into troubleshooting my Prusa MK3S, and coming to the conclusion that their proprietary heat break was the issue, I sent it back (because they refused to acknowledge the issue no matter how many people were making the same case on their forums...) and vowed to never buy another 3d printer that has even a whiff of a problem related to heat. It's the worst, most insidious type of 3d printer problem because it doesn't manifest itself until you are several hours into your print, and even Josef Prusa himself admits he doesn't know how to fix it because even other company's extruders were producing the same heat-creep issue on his machines. I'm so fed up with hearing about this rampant problem with FDM printers that I think I'm going to go the SLA route and deal with the post-processing hassle.
Technically, the engineers who designed this printer thought that "who cares if its AC, it's covered with glass so no one will touch it". Nope! that's not how it works! The AC part is still accessible. IF you don't connect a grounding wire, you're risking your life.
Hi Joel, I have the same printer, but I have got the version 4 (at the time of writing, the latest version). In this printer I have, there is no problem with the sheet metal anymore, the holes are just big enough to use the SD card or USB stick. Also, the USB stick GCODE behaves just the same as the SD card GCODE, I guess that problem is also fixed (or at least, I don't have that problem). When I bought the printer, I levelled the bed, I didn't do anything about it since and now, about 30 prints later, it is still a perfect level as it should be. The spool holder at the top, yeah. That's a problem. I don't like it that much, but it's not a big thing. The cable restraint still is not good, you have to print your own part to make it better and the hot end still uses a low cost, crappy PTFE inner liner tube. That said, I print NGEN filament at 250C all the time with this printer and I don't believe at that temperature, on the nozzle, the PTFE tube is going to be exposed to a temperature above 230C. I can only tell what the outside of the heatbreak shows, but on the thermal camera, there is a difference of more than 30C between the hot and cold side, seen from the outside. I don't know if I will make a video about this printer yet, as I am very limited in time lately, but I just wanted to tell you this. Thanks for your great reviews and other video's. As always, greetings from the Netherlands.
I kinda understand why its cheap.. And why Banggood bans it from Israel, as our regulations demand any electric utensil with exposed metal parts to have them connected to grounding. This is crucial as if electricity get there and you touch them, you could get electrocuted. So if you didn't purchase this printer - don't, until Artillery fix this issue. IF you already purchased it - you need to connect a grounding wire both to the body and to the heated bed. Good luck with that.
I think I don't like the hot end arrangement it comes with. That looks like an e3d volcano clone. The volcano is a fine hot end with a specific use case. Printing big things with large extrusion width and layer height, fast. I feel a printer should not come stock with this type of hot end without specifying that it will have issues with stringing due to the long melt zone, when using a standard .4mm nozzle and printing smaller stuff. I also really dislike the flimsy ribbon cable design, as well as the heavy extruder motor. I think a 3 to 1 gear reduction with a pancake stepper would allow faster printing without ringing, especially paired with the volcano style hot end.
so, thinking about getting a 3D printer, about the only thing I am wanting to use it for is 1/35th helicopter pilots, and seated soldiers to go into 2 UH-47 Chinooks, would this be the best printer to get? Thank you
That is the BEST spool holder. ALL that anyone needs to do is put small lengths of PVC or Copper tubing over the bearings wide enough for the widest spoole and never adjust it again. small spools won't fall over and changing is great.
Can. You share a profile for this printer.? There’s a problem with mine and I can’t seem to figure it out because I don’t know if it’s the machine or the profile I’m using. I’ve tried a bunch of things and always get lines on my prints.
I'm utterly confused about this printer. I have watched 6 reviews, three of them say it's a must have and that it's great, three of them told me to stay away from it. One of those three even said it's a fire hazard and wouldn't leave it unattended
Great video. Unfortunately, the hot end design and the non-traditionally frame that wouldn't allow for z braces make it a no go for me. Thanks a lot for the info.
Hug each other more? Oh the naïveté of 2019.
I got one of these a couple months ago, and I was at first super impressed. I was printing PLA and PETG parts like a champ, and the setup seemed basically bulletproof for about 3 weeks. However, I am an engineer and I really wanted some durable functional parts, so I decided to try Nylon. This became a massive problem with the stock extruder, but not for the reason you might think. I was cautiously printing around 245-255 not wanting the PTFE to break down but I actually had the ribbon cable on the X axis fail not once, but twice. I've also had the vertical axis cable fail once though this was from the bed rubbing on it and can easily be fixed with some tape. I'm not new at all to 3D printing, but I am new to modifying my printers, and in my attempt to modify the extruder and replace the heatbrake I ended up snapping it off in the volcano style block in an attempt to clear a jam in a really cheap chinese heatbrake. This was entirely user error, but I will say it is a bit of a PITA to replace the extruder because of how little room there is to turn it and the wires are rather stiff, meaning I was constantly afraid I'd break them. In fact I did break the thermister by twisting the wires a bit too much, and the sensor came free of its casing.
Things I like: The AC heat bed heats up stupidly fast even to 90C or above. Super quiet. Direct drive is a big plus for me, I've had little to no stringing issues. Customer service is very nice and sent me free replacement parts like the cables. Thermal runaway enabled by default. Really reliably prints PLA/PETG. Bed surface worked awesome with just hairspray. Can print really fast, I default all my PLA prints to 90mm/s. Volcano heat block compatible with large nozzles to make better use of the huge volume.
Issues: Reliability of the cables. Occasionally I'd have a random thermal runaway error stop a print even with it working fine before (early sign of failing cable?). Short fragile wires to the board on the extruder. Annoying spoolholder. Firmware default will max out at 270C, if you replace with all metal you pretty much must modify that.
I'm sure once I have my all metal setup running and do some PID tuning it will become a workhorse again, save maybe for the cables. But they aren't too hard to replace and I probably got through 3kg of filament before my first failure. I've successfully done some 8 hour plus prints and had no issues with PLA and PETG. If all you print is below 230C on the nozzle then it is a beast of a machine. But if you want to print Nylon without mods and don't need the build volume or huge nozzles, a Prusa may be better. I've got a thermister, a microswiss all metal heatbrake, and a genuine E3d Volcano block on order. With those I bet I'll have a much better time with high temperature printing and be loving this thing again.
Really nice to find my chainmail design in the video! I completely agree with you, there is room for improvement with the chainmail print quality, but I'm quite sure it's alls about the slicing settings. Hardware looks really good!
Do you know if I could make a custom size of it?
Of course. No wonder my car wrecking company called Bomb Parts failed.
That wall is so beautiful that you just HAD to keep it in focus on the A roll. :P
Joel, the production if your videos is evolving and is top notch, thank you
Thank YOU!
Focus damnit :) Your camera focus is on the back wall instead on Joel.. just saying.. a bit annoying. Otherwise thumbs up!
He really needs a camera man...
It's not like he has one...
We could continue this ;) I mean.. it's not like anyone is moving here.. put it on manual, focus on Joel.. set it and forget it.. what seems to be problem here??? Did the cat bump the tripod? jeeez :D
"Focus, ya fuck!" -ave
I check my streaming resolution thinking it hadn’t yet kicked up to 1080p but yep, it was, and out of focus.
Thanks for the additional information. I was considering this in addition to/replacement of my CR10S Pro because of all the trouble I've been having with mine. But I've had to tinker so much with my printer that I'm just about done with tinkering with printers for life and I don't care to tinker with yet another one. I still need to add mod to syncronize belts like this one has.
Interessting conclusion about the teflon tube, i had the same problem but after a nozzle Switch its were gone, too.
The bigger problem for me is the hotend heater. After 3hours of printing, right after calibration, the heater did go south. And with the connector type they thoose for the transition pcb i hadnt the right one to crimp another heater to it! The choosen connector is the JST 3,96mm and as far as i know there is no manufacturer who is making thermistors or heaters with this kind of connector. The way better way for a plattform would have been to choose the same connectors as E3D (micro-fit 3.0) to have a easy swappable ecosystem!
Downside is the model you have is pretty old alot of the negative things you touched on have either been fixed already, or dont exist anymore. Anyways, you might want to double check the bore on the nozzle- earlier versions had a few that were shipped with 3mm nozzles instead of 1.75. As usual Joel, great video but the information (for the most part) is outdated now. Ive had machines now in the fixed v1 (post evnovo logo), v2's, and v3's and am glad to report they are the reason our Prusas are starting to collect dust. Reach out to the community (or me even) if you need anything brother.
Do you recommend this one over the creality CR's?
Tell me more.
Thu Nell Ⓥ V4 has the reset button just to the right of the LCD. I don't know of any way to determine the other versions.
Yoo been watching this guy for the last 3 days for 3d printer reviews cause he the realest.
Hi Joel, thank you for your review.
I recently received this printer. I purchased a refurbished one. I was blown away by the quality of the prints I am getting. Unfortunately it continually quits mid print due to thermal runaway being triggered. I have tried to contact the Artillery website, the Ali Express store, and the person that shipped it. The latter being the only one that responded. I changed the ribbon with the provided spare. (That connects the gantry to the base). It has failed twice with in a couples hours on the second print. Is there anything you can do to help? I really like this printer and just want to keep it running without errors. Thank you, Chris
@@ImaginativeFabrication I don't have this particular printer but if it keeps happening mid print have a look at the print fan speed settings in your slicer. It might be increasing the fan speed at a certain layer time which may be blowing on your hot end causing it to cool down and not be able to keep up. Try decreasing it by 30% and see if it happens again
@@tcw95NZ thank you! I'll give it a try. I've never had that problem on any of my other printers. I use Simplify 3d and haven't set up any incremental fan changes. I'll double check to see if they were in the x1 profile I downloaded.
@@ImaginativeFabrication It would also probably help to tune the PID for the hotend with the fan on. Assuming the printer runs Marlin firmware, you can send M106 S255 to turn the fan on. The number after the S is the fan speed. It is a PWM value though, not a percentage so 255 is 100%. I would set the fan to whatever percentage you most commonly use. After the fan is on send an M303 command. That would go something like this: M303 E0 C5 S200 U. This will autotune your E0 heater (the hotend) at 200C (S) for 5 cycles (C) and then enable the new PID settings (U). If those settings work you can send M500 to save them to the firmware. You would do this through a slicer or some other software that can send Gcode commands to the printer. You can also put all of these commands in a text file (each one on its own line and in the order I put them in) and save it as a .gcode file instead of a .txt file then run it from the SD card.
@@ImaginativeFabrication post in the official facebook group. Artillery are very active there and usually try to help
Got my Sidewinder X1 last week, first thing i did was replace the tube in the hot end with the Cap. Tubing. Printer has been awesome .
Got a link for where you got the ptfe tubing?
where can I buy the tube
Hey Joel, when the gcode is acting weird like that, it is usually the memory that is at fault. Try a different USB drive and I bet it will work. :)
I've had my Sidewinder for over a year now and I love it! I went pretty much straight to an all metal hot end, and it has been fantastic! Im still learning all about 3d printing, but I love it! Ive been quite worried a couple times that is stopped printing when I was in another room. That goes to show how quiet it is!!!
I prefer ptfe-lined hotends especially for PLA. Using a high temp PTFE like Capricorn is the way to go. It handles PETG like a champ as well. Great review but as others have mentioned, if you wait longer than a few months to review a printer, maybe consider exchanging it for a new production version or build both (if the first one is from early production) for a comparison (my preference). Early adopters benefit by seeing the improvements to implement by viewing a current production model, and prospective buyers see what they are actually receiving with a current production model.
Am I the only one who couldn't help but smile seeing filament just "coming down from above"?
The Monoprice Mini select was designed like that. My first printer. It gave me problems too. Good for learning how to work on them though!
Is this better than the CR10 or similar? Which would you choose for the $350 price range?
Replace the hex head bolts on the spool holder with some thumb screws maybe? I watched this when you first aired it but I like your videos enough to rewatch them lol.
That’s a fantastic idea!
Awesome vid man
Also the "don't forget to hug each other more" comment cracked me up since of Covid
Thinking about getting this printer. good review, thank you! I saw your brother in Thailand on U-tube
I had a similar problem with my Anycubic. formatting the Stick/SD Card solved the Problem. 😬👌
Thanks for the printer review! Great editing and info!
Daniel .Power thank you, and thanks for watching!
would be great having a follow up video with a bigger E3D nozzle
We put a .6 nozzle on it immediately after this video. 😂😂
Canon cameras and printers make it through customs just fine.
I am planning to buy my first 3D printer. I first watched Ender 3 v2.
Which printer would you recommend for a beginner?
I'm still waiting to try mine out. I ordered 2 and never received them. First one from Amazon tracking trail ends at a US facility in Portland Oregon. Got a refund from Amazon. Second one ordered from gearbest over a month ago. Got notification it was left on my porch day after Thanksgiving. I was home that day. Never seen a ups guy or the item. Filled complaint as yet to get any help from ups.
Hi first of all I’d like to say fantastic video
Second I hope someone will be able to answer If you bought a 3D printer and the temperature maxed out at say 250 degrees would it be possible to increase the working temperature to that what is needed to print using a higher temperature filament just an honest question
Looks like a great value proposition
Hey Joel you have a link for the Capricorn ptfe tubing? cheers
Captubes.com
Can u give us an explanation over the quality of prints with flexible materials?
Did we ever get a follow up video or message about this printer? I'm just now joining the 3d printing space and am heavily considering buying this one.
What size did you use for the PTFE tubing, 1M or 2M?
Thanks Joel, saved me today when the PTF tube clogged, thanks again.
You should do a followup for the newest version. The performance is fantastic on the one I got just a couple of weeks ago. I also immediately replaced the stock ptfe liner with capricorn because of your findings!
Where did you get the new version from?
I had the impression that this model is good at printing fast, because of volcano hotend and rigidity. Also they seem to have a heavily modified firmware. I wonder if it is a good candidate for a 32bit board upgrade, because that would handle directional changes at higher speeds better.
Thats strange about printing from the USB. I've had this printer for about 4 months and have printed exclusively from the USB and haven't had that issue, I'm guessing that perhaps it's a firmware issue. With that, I've been printing for 8 years, currently have 3 printers and I have to say that this is, hands down the best printer I have and have owned. The detail that I can get in my lithophanes with this printer continually amazes me.
That’s great to hear!
Thanks wanted to know how well the sidewinder would print
I'd recommend to upgrade to Capricorn PTFE on any Boden extruder or wherever it might be used!
Would you please recommend me printer between this budget which you think is much better in this budget...
PTFE can survive up to 250-260C It will offgas which could be unsafe for avian pets but the actual PTFE will last hundreds of hours before deforming.
If it kills birds there's a good chance it's not too good for you, either. There's a reason coal miners used to keep canaries in the mine.
Change hex bolt to thumb screw/butterfly bolt...easy fix
I have to disagree with your recommendation Mr. Printing Nerd. If it was under $350 and needed a few things out of the box like my HICTOP i3 5 years ago, sure. However, there are lower cost printers out there that don't need to be repaired for faulty engineering. No one should buy this at > $350. The fact that there are screws not seating in the frame is a huge red flag that their manufacturing is low precision/quality.
Joel you are awesome, and so its your editor. All your last videos have an amazing editing quaility. My congrats for you both
Just a quick add-almost all the issues have been addressed in their updates. Spool holder adaptor for bridging the gap is already on Thingiverse FYI there are at least 2 versions out now so no need to make your own. One update that just isn't good, the flat ribbon no longer has a positive lock on the newer models (not sure why they did this) but the caveat is that now you need to print a cable stay to avoid it coming loose (on carriage) over time with use which can cause all types of issues. Great Video as always!
is there not a newer version of the V4??
Finally! Hoped for long that youre gonna review this machine.
Dangit Joel! I was just arguing with myself about what printer I want between the Sidewinder and the Elegoo Mars, (I know I know two totally different machines but yeah..) I had finally decided on the Mars and then you release this.. lol Back to arguing with myself.
Go for both, that's what I did lol.
Cheap and unknown PTFE tubing typically degrades at the range Joel mentions in the video, however a high quality virgin tubing from someone reputable like Dupont is spec'd for *continuous* use at up to 260C and underwriter's laboratory demonstrated no mechanical degredation even when used at 285C ( source: Dupont's technical handbook for their PTFE resin www.structuredweb.com/sw/swchannel/CustomerCenter/documents/6673/15640/Teflon_PFA_Handbook.pdf )
Wow. I had this exact type of nozzle blockage today on my original CR-10. Pain in the ass to fix.
I just got my printer in the mail (369.00 US), and I'm waiting for my filament to arrive (should have ordered them BOTH at the same time)! I will have to check out that tube and see if I need to replace that after I start printing. P. S. This is the first printer I've ever had! Thanks for the great video!
At 4:49 you mention Filament Fremzy's Prusaslicer profile for this printer. Do you have a link to that? Thanks!
Hi
BlackDragonBE!
Did you find the profile by any chance?
also looking, haven't been able to find it either
Anyone find the profile? Family bought me this Sidewinder for Father's Day, woohoo !
I kinda want one of these. I love my CR10 but for it to do ABS it would need a bit of work. I have my i3 mega set up for ABS but it can't do large prints. This machine however could with an enclosure. Of course I would upgrade that hotend though.
Thank you for your honest review! This printer is on my radar for awhile and now I'm convinced this is a proper buy.
Have you tried it out yet? If so, how is it?
Is it good?
spoolholder + (wingnut welded to bolt head) = no worries
So uh, why isn't PEEK an option for a liner in consumer 3D printers? Shouldn't _that_ withstand higher temperatures?
Yes,and yuo need an enclousure or a close printer , and a all metal hot end, minimun
I own one, It's my first 3D printer so I cannot compare it with another printer, But after 1 year, the printer it's been not working for more than 6 months...first, a cable burnt, then a component broke, thermistor, a connector, another cable,....oh man, this is annoying. Technical support is kind and helpful but they send from china and takes 1-2 months to arrive...I guess this is what you get when you buy a cheap Chinese thing so no complaints :)
It looks like a never ending sea of videos that have printers that need upgrades. To me, all printers are made better and more reliable with upgrades you can buy or make yourself. Cheap components make the printer available at low $$$ price points. You get it home knowing you will have to make upgrades eventually, but you have one home. If I were looking at the perfect printer, I couldn't afford it. Maybe put the Micro Swiss bowden extruder upgrade.
The USB thing (I mean the motion during skirt layer you talk about) is something usual when you don't have CRC check while doing memory read. For example it should parse the g-code line like G1 X30.000 but due to read error from USB it sees G1 X(something unusable) so it interprets it as zero or something else that is incorrect so it goes to another position then reads the next line of g-code correctly and goes to correct place after that. to reduce the possibility of this issue you need to reformat the USB stick and recreate the file. I have had this issue many years ago when I was designing and making my own 3d printer.
@
3D Printing Nerd In regards to the spool holder. How about changing the hex bolts to Wing nut style bolts so you can just use your fingers to adjust it?
I brought this machine few weeks ago. The machine I get has a serious stringing issue. And some other issues. Hope I can resolve them.
i just recieved one for printing nhs visors and its been amazing, i just ordered a second one
A larg area printer without a heatsink on the hotend? which engineer is responsible for this lol
It has a heatsink and fan. He just didnt show it.
@@EarlMiller At 15:30 he says it doesnt have a heatsink and tbh, i dont see any way how a heatsink should go onto there without having bad thermal conductivity, theres nothing indicating any sort of contact point
I assure you, theres been a heatsink and fan- its mounted on the left side. Look at any image of the printer and it will become clear. The cooling for that part is separate from the shaft. You might scoff at the design, but weve had thousands of hours on these machines, and it hasnt been a problem- if theres bad thermal conductivity, we havent seen it. (shrug) We dont print slow either- average 80-100mms all day, every day.
I really think that heatsink design is not the best. flat heatsink is not adapted.
hi, i got a problem on 3d printing a 1.5 modules(80 teeths or above) bevel gear. Especailly i saw my 3d printer which i had. It failed to print the last stage which is near the top bevel teeth. It just won't stick on it. Do you think you can print it and make a video with it. Give me some advice with it.
Good review! I love this printer but have a problem with the height... is there any way to move the spool to one side?
Hi, can i know the retraction settings? Length and speed, i had some problem with stringing , already low the temp to 198C and length 8mm with 75mm/s retrac speed l, thankyou
1.5 mm @ 35mm/s
I'm new to 3d Printing. Fairly computer competent and very mechanically competent.
I want to make parts for the RC Crawling Hobby and others. First small scale pieces, but my goal is to be able to design body panels as well as interior panels in fullscale detail to create a fully operational piece, with opening doors, roll down windows, opening trunks and hoods, working retracting ragtops, etc. A 3d Printer will make these things possible, but that is where I am clueless. So most items will be not too large, but body panels, etc. will get pretty big, especially if I make 1/8th scale items and larger, which I would like to do for 1/5th scale F1 Rcs.
Anyways, that is the basic scope of my desired outcome.
So which 3D Printers would you recommend? Some pieces may be as large as 24 inches in length. I could make them 2 piece to go together which his something I already considered, however, if I could, doing them one piece would be preferable.
Looking forward to your suggestions. Also, I am not opposed to using 2 machines, one for the large items and one for the smaller items, where I could run the large one doubling out parts when not printing a large item.
Lastly, I would like to print in high strength product. Nylon, Nylon/CF CF, or other similar tough products.
Thank for any info tips and direction you may be able to point me in.
This is the problem with 3d printing. A fad. Making knick knacks not even worth the plastic they are printed with, and machines that have too many issues
Spool mechanism in this is similar to Prusa’s first design. Good idea but bad execution. Love you Prusa and no hate on any of the printing companies
The issues seem to have all been addressed with later revisions.. the sheet metal cutout, the odd movement at start with USB drive, and I just left one side of the spool holder slightly loose so you can just slide it to fit the other spool.
What is the purpose of the ptfe tube? To insulate from melting while in the heat sink area?
Artillery is becomming a famous company. Creality 2.0
Bro i need ur help.
Which printer is good as I need a quality print as I saw many printer n saw their print n it’s not finished at quality finish. Awaiting for ur reply bro
10:43 The Longer 3D Orange 10 has a little space around the SD card slot like the case hole is slightly bigger than the actual slot. So at least twice I actually got my SD card lost inside the machine because I thought it was in the slot but it wasn't.
Just had a really bad experience with Gearbest, not sure you should be recommending them.
Does V4 version of this printer still have the PTFE tube problem?
I have a V4, but still wouldn't sugest pushing the temp above 230ºC without swapping to an all-metal heatbreak. When PTFE degrades it releases neurotoxic fumes, so I chose not to risk it. The most recent V4 has a Kraken heatbreak, it should not be expensive to make the change. If you only want to print with PLA, the machine will work flawlessly.
Caio Castello Grandi Ribeiro If you get some capricorn ptfe that problem should be fixed
Wow this is actually really really good and with this video and aliexpress it seems like it would be very good quality with good customer service. I have an anet a8 and have hardly used it because its got more problems that its worth, its unreliable, just super janky and worst of all supperr loud (probably an easy fix though). My birthday is in a few weeks so I might ask for money towards this, but first I need to tidy my bedroom and make space for it. (I feel like this comment would make more sense if i mention that I'm 15)
@@isaackvasager9957 it's mainly the bed getting everything level and to stick properly and the extruder. I have the popular stick on matt I forgot what it's called but I get it level it works for a few prints and then just stopped being level, also the bed isn't flat so big prints will never work. The extruder jams up something when it slips on the filament or plastic will dry far up the nozel and not remelt and jamming it. It's loud as hell. It's just not that nice to use.
I think if I wanted to get it working good I would need a new heat bed and different bed mounting design, and sort of rebuild just checking all the bolts are fine and tensioning the belts. Neaten up the wires to make it feel less janky and more finished design too
@@isaackvasager9957 so after these comments I thought I would have another go at using my printer. I accidentally used the default settings rather than the ones I was told to use by a friend and it worked. Main difference is default was much much slower, I'm guessing the speed from before caused vibrations to rattle everything loose. Prints are still super weak, I noticed infil looked like stringing so I think I need more flow, also the sidewalls are basically clear so more sidewall? I think the main problem with my printer is me being impatient
@@isaackvasager9957 yeah I've just not had much hope with it. I hoped for the slightest bit of success from the start but not getting it demotivated me. After seeing the slight success yesterday I think I'll spend a day at home testing and watching films to pass the time so I don't rush it. Thanks for the motivation
strange i never had that usb stick issue not one single time thankfully
I need some advice .. been watching your channel for some time now and my Raise 3D printer has been having issues lately. It’s a 2016 model and I believe its a hardware issue. I need to purchase a new printer with the same print bed size ,. Roughly 12x12x12. What printer do you recommend ??
I am not sure of the belt with two separate motors. If the Z steppers are not rotating in sync, it feels like one motor will fight with the other. Do other viewers have experience with such an arrangement?
I do like my MicroSwiss all metal hot end.
Dave.
There is a belt between the two Z motors that keeps everything synchronized, so there's no fighting between the steppers and it all stays in sync. And all of the Z extrusions are 40's (and the XY under the bed is close to a 60!) so this machine is incredibly stable.
Hey Joel,
Can you do a review of the Two Trees Sapphire Pro CoreXY printer?
Tony
Should we talk about the silicon heater which has already delaminated itself from the print bed when you showed the cables from the back?
Many people receive their printer with that issue. Push it back up when the print bed is warm and it doesn't seem to come back down again.
Old video, but if anyone still has this USB problem:
I had the same problem with either weird movement with a brim enabled, or even weird movement on the first layer outline with the brim disabled. All when printing from USB and only on the first layer. Also 100% repeatable.
I've solved this by updating the touch screen (TFT) firmware, NOT the printer firmware itself, just the TFT firmware. The printer is still 100% stock with stock Marlin 1.x as it was shipped. I used the firmware from digant at Thingiverse, thing:4294049. And again, I only updated the TFT firmware, since my printer otherwise prints great and I didn't want to loose any settings etc. Update is as easy as copying files onto a MicroSD card and booting the printer. Works great now.
After sinking hundreds of hours I'll never get back into troubleshooting my Prusa MK3S, and coming to the conclusion that their proprietary heat break was the issue, I sent it back (because they refused to acknowledge the issue no matter how many people were making the same case on their forums...) and vowed to never buy another 3d printer that has even a whiff of a problem related to heat.
It's the worst, most insidious type of 3d printer problem because it doesn't manifest itself until you are several hours into your print, and even Josef Prusa himself admits he doesn't know how to fix it because even other company's extruders were producing the same heat-creep issue on his machines. I'm so fed up with hearing about this rampant problem with FDM printers that I think I'm going to go the SLA route and deal with the post-processing hassle.
where can I find FilamentFrenzys x1 profile? Thanks!
He is working on releasing it super soon!
@@3DPrintingNerd Nice. Thanks!
Technically, the engineers who designed this printer thought that "who cares if its AC, it's covered with glass so no one will touch it". Nope! that's not how it works! The AC part is still accessible. IF you don't connect a grounding wire, you're risking your life.
Hi Joel,
I have the same printer, but I have got the version 4 (at the time of writing, the latest version).
In this printer I have, there is no problem with the sheet metal anymore, the holes are just big enough to use the SD card or USB stick. Also, the USB stick GCODE behaves just the same as the SD card GCODE, I guess that problem is also fixed (or at least, I don't have that problem). When I bought the printer, I levelled the bed, I didn't do anything about it since and now, about 30 prints later, it is still a perfect level as it should be.
The spool holder at the top, yeah. That's a problem. I don't like it that much, but it's not a big thing. The cable restraint still is not good, you have to print your own part to make it better and the hot end still uses a low cost, crappy PTFE inner liner tube. That said, I print NGEN filament at 250C all the time with this printer and I don't believe at that temperature, on the nozzle, the PTFE tube is going to be exposed to a temperature above 230C. I can only tell what the outside of the heatbreak shows, but on the thermal camera, there is a difference of more than 30C between the hot and cold side, seen from the outside.
I don't know if I will make a video about this printer yet, as I am very limited in time lately, but I just wanted to tell you this.
Thanks for your great reviews and other video's. As always, greetings from the Netherlands.
Print this mod for the spool and you wont need to ever move it again. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3850399
I kinda understand why its cheap.. And why Banggood bans it from Israel, as our regulations demand any electric utensil with exposed metal parts to have them connected to grounding. This is crucial as if electricity get there and you touch them, you could get electrocuted. So if you didn't purchase this printer - don't, until Artillery fix this issue. IF you already purchased it - you need to connect a grounding wire both to the body and to the heated bed. Good luck with that.
I think I don't like the hot end arrangement it comes with. That looks like an e3d volcano clone. The volcano is a fine hot end with a specific use case. Printing big things with large extrusion width and layer height, fast. I feel a printer should not come stock with this type of hot end without specifying that it will have issues with stringing due to the long melt zone, when using a standard .4mm nozzle and printing smaller stuff.
I also really dislike the flimsy ribbon cable design, as well as the heavy extruder motor. I think a 3 to 1 gear reduction with a pancake stepper would allow faster printing without ringing, especially paired with the volcano style hot end.
format the usb stick, it resolves de problema. That efect can apen with sd card also.
so, thinking about getting a 3D printer, about the only thing I am wanting to use it for is 1/35th helicopter pilots, and seated soldiers to go into 2 UH-47 Chinooks, would this be the best printer to get? Thank you
That is the BEST spool holder. ALL that anyone needs to do is put small lengths of PVC or Copper tubing over the bearings wide enough for the widest spoole and never adjust it again. small spools won't fall over and changing is great.
Can. You share a profile for this printer.? There’s a problem with mine and I can’t seem to figure it out because I don’t know if it’s the machine or the profile I’m using. I’ve tried a bunch of things and always get lines on my prints.
How is it holding? Any more problems? Im thinking of buying this or the cr-10, what would you recommend?
Technically, that asterisk is not a deal breaker yet.. But having the AC heated bed not grounded - is. This model needs some serious work over.
I'm utterly confused about this printer. I have watched 6 reviews, three of them say it's a must have and that it's great, three of them told me to stay away from it. One of those three even said it's a fire hazard and wouldn't leave it unattended
Did you use a Capricorn heat break liner or just Capricorn ptfe tube? Thanks in advance
Great video. Unfortunately, the hot end design and the non-traditionally frame that wouldn't allow for z braces make it a no go for me. Thanks a lot for the info.
6:18 - I'm sorry gentlemen but I disagree; 'massive' is far more complimentary. You've set your bar too low 😏