*Corrections:* - The Artillery Sidewinder X1 and Genius actually heat the bed using mains voltage (110V in US) which is why it's super quick - Multiple reports that the latest version SV01's are capable of printing flexible filaments really well. Apparently I just need to add a small piece of PTFE tube above the heatsink. I've gotta try that! - It looks like one of the Z rods on the Genius is slightly bent. That may explain the z-banding I saw. You can see if on the left side at 6:16 Thanks wise viewers for schooling me :)
Nerys would say: Remove the bearings and the belt on top of the Genius and let the rods rotate freely! :) And I have seen many creators confirm this. Did you try this, for getting rid of the Z bending?
@@elmariachi5133 i'm sure it will work , unless the screws are bent real bad, when i got my 3D printer i added bearings at the top of the leadscrews too , then i realized how it could make things worse, i had left them on anyway because it's an anet A6 3d printer and having the weight supported both top and bottom makes for better prints , guess i got lucky and got pretty straight screws, if i remove the bearings the weight will push too much on the bottom plates when it tries to raise to next layer and will have inconsistent layer height. if it were a metal frame 3D printer i would remove them asap.
So you said that the ninja flex gets tangled in the Extruder of the SV01. There was a fix to that if you took apart the Extruder and added in a small piece of PTFE tubing to it. Just with that little addition I was able to get my Sovol to print flexibles just as good as the Sidewinder that I own.
As a 15 year old product designer/gamer and general nerd, the Sidewinder X1 is amazing! my first 3D printer, its been so Eazy to use, and its basically silent! im currently working on Raidens sword from metal gear, and a pc case. overall very happy with it!
My SV01 prints flexible filament perfectly. I’m guessing your printer is one of the first runs which doesn’t have the ptfe tubing in the hot end. They have fixed this issue and the new batches can print flexible perfectly out of the box. Love the sovol.
I have a Sovol SV01 and it is the best of my three 3d printers (the others are bowden printers). Printing flexible filament is not a problem with Sovol, you need only to put a small ptfe tube into the cylindrical piece where you insert the filament above the heatsink and voila (there is videos on RUclips to explain how to do it). I print flexible filaments flawless.
Pretty sure I'm gonna go with a sidewinder for my entry into product design and 3D printing. Been eyeing it up for a while now. The sheer versatility and quietness of the artillery printers has won me over.
Hey Devin! Very nice review! I have a Sidewinder X1 running and as far as I know, the artillery printer's bed is AC heated, that's why it could get to temperature a lot faster. Love your channel!
Yes, i just had to install a new PSU in my Sideiwinder, so i know for sure, that the heated bed is directly connected to 110V/220V. It is switched on and off by a solid state relais, which gets its signal from the mainboard.
I just scored a sidewinder from facebook for $325 with 3 spools of filament and so far I am super impressed and happy with it. I was debating between ender 5 plus and cr10 pro, I am glad this popped up for sale near me at the right time. Great video like always, also reassures me I got a good printer
My wife just bought me my first 3D printer. The Artillery Genius. I have been watching your channel to learn a lot about 3D printing in general and you have very creative ideas that I will love to try making. Thanks man!
The sv01 was upgraded. It is selling on amazon for 259 with upgraded silent board, upgraded maxwell power supply which heats up the bed much quicker, the heads are upgraded letting you print with flexible filament. What sold me on sv01 was how clean prints look compared to $500+ printers and also the fact that I can laser engrave with is using the laser engraver attachment.
Hey Devin, can you please do a video for absolute beginners about how to start printing - settings, things to put in mind and tips? Loving your content!
@@capblueberry7899 Thanks but I think I'm good. It's been 8 months and in the meanwhile I learned how to do everything, including upgrading just about everything on my Sidewinder X1, programming a custom Marlin and printing perfectly smooth large surfaces at 80mm/s with zero artefacts. 👍
After many hours of listening / reading product reviews I have come to a decision! Thank you Make Anything I have decided to go with the Artillery Sidewinder X1 because of your well informed video. I hope to have many, many hours of use with the new addition to my passion for 3d printing. Merry Christmas sir!
Same. I went from my tevo tornado to a X1 and I love this printer its far more user friendly and easier to set up then my Tevo which I absolutely love.
increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed put some gluestick on the bed spread it with a wet paper towel heat the bed until it looks clean thats how i do it if your initial layer is too squeshed the diffrent parts of the bearing wil stick togheter hope this helps you beceause it really is satisfying to print them bearings! XD
@@aiko6035 thank you so much for the suggestions! I've been trying to print successful bearings forever with no luck :( Im going to try this tomorrow and hopefully it works! Ty 😁😁
I have to thank you I knew from the get-go that from your first review that the artillery sidewinder was the printer for me and it has not given me any trouble that a little tweaking cant fix.
Just a heads up, serger thread tends to be relatively low quality and can cause issues if used in regular home machines due to excessive lint and fluff buildup. It certainly can be done, especially if you're vigilant about machine maintenance, but the easiest way to keep a machine in good working order for as long as possible starts with high quality thread. Brands like Aurifil and Gutermann are also available on large spools for quite good prices and are very high quality threads.
@@thomashenderson3901 Sorry, I neither know what your priorities are, nor did I have personal experience with any of the above models. I'm using a home made I3 MK2 clone and a CR-10 300. As well as a 3d pen. It's also a matter of your ability to modify the printer to your needs. If you need it to be close to what you need from the factory, you should chose that model. If you can mod it, you should chose whatever is best in general and fix whatever issue would keep you from choosing it over another.
@@heyarno Fair point, and I respect your honesty. Speed - Low priority. Size and accuracy - High priority. After a lot of searching I think I will go with the Sidewinder. The Sovol seems great but I want to make larger objects and there's little else to compete with the sidewinder for size at that price. Thanks again.
Likely not caused by the slight lead screw wobble. Keep in mind the lead screw pushes up and down, the wheels keep it squared to the frame. If you look closely,, see the gunk on the lead screw thread.. THAT is likely the cause. All it takes is a tiny piece of debris to get into the nut or on the thread, and you get banding issues. Thick lubricants that attract dust on the lead screw will do that.
The beds on the artillery machines are actually 120v ac powered. So it actually powered by the outlet. The main board controls them with a solid state relay.
Hello. I am looking to get my husband a 3D printer for his birthday and I think you sold me on the Sovol. I'm new to this so I may not be using the correct terminology but, can the Sovol be upgraded? If I'm not mistaken people like the Ender 3 and Creality so much because of all the extra "stuff" you can add to it by stuff I mean upgraded programs etc. Can you do the same with the Sovol?
My friend is letting me borrow his Monoprice Select Plus, and I'm having a blast making stuff! I definitely plan on upgrading soon though as the quality isn't amazing. This is exactly the video I was looking for and that X1 looks perfect for me! Thank you!
The new artillery sidewinder x1 models changed the heatbreak to a locked one not a threaded one and the way the heatbreak fits against the nozzle is a concave fit. Basically it keeps you from using anyone else's parts but theirs.
My first 3D printer (home designed repstrap) is a direct drive unit. I then printed parts to make a RepRap Wilson printer. This one has taken quite some time to get working well, and I've converted it to a Bowden extruder to get the weight of the extruder stepping motor off of the print head carriage. This to attempt to get the printer to run a bit faster as I'm using smaller sized motors than the first printer. The Bowden setup works. I haven't tried flexible filament yet, and will limit that to the Repstrap which is a larger printer as well (250 x 200 x 300 mm VS 200 x 200 x 190 mm print volume). My RepRap uses a home made heated bed (aluminum plate with sand resistors JB welded to bottom) running on 44 VAC (stepdown transformer, relay switched).
Love the turtle footage - I love all your content, thanks for another great video - I recieved a Lulzbot Mini 2 as a gift and sometimes wish it was 2 Sidewinders instead. C'est la vie!
What a difference a couple years makes. SV01 Pro with auto leveling is $229 now. But the printer I'm really wanting to see come out is the new Bamboo P1P with it's CRAZY fast print speed at $699... that will give a shove to the market I believe if it works like the X1 does from them...
I love my ender3 with a direct drive, and now I can trust the printer I have not tryed glass as build plate, but love my WhamBam steel/pex Thanks for sharing 👍😀
I made my own glass bed for my ender 3😂 BEST UPGRADE EVER! It instantly improves the initial layers by making it very smooth and glossy. I just use some hairspray for better buildplate adhesion
yeah that caught my eye too, was wondering if other people noticed... that left screw is 100% bent and wobbly and i think that is causing the issues.. im really wondering if you could make a print farm out of genius printers... so far i have 3x mk3s... but maybe i want to try something cheaper
Also the thread pitch the lead screws is way to big. It looks like it three or for leads. Threads like that are hard to make at those small diameters without a lot of backlash. There's no for the z axis to move that much with each revolution. All of these things can have a negative impact on resolution.
12:18 this is usually due to the heated bed bending when it warms/cools by the heating element being switched on and of to maintain temp. Try PLA and turn off bed heating to see if the banding dissapears. It has to do with the firmware and how the bed is switched/controlled to get a better result.
I’m new to 3D printing and I’ve got an sidewinder x1 for a month . Haven’t tuned much but it works well, it will be great if you can make a video on tuning it. Been killing it with just printing with 1.5 mm thin walls with 0.4 mm space between (multiple live joints builds) and it worked really well. Z banding is quite something that the sidewinder x1 is facing (especially within the community). Thanks 🙏🏻
Love your videos. Your last review of the Sidewinder caused me to buy it as my first printer and it just came today! Glad to see it is still at the top of your list!
Great review. Looking for my first printer and I'm definitely leaning towards the X1, but the smoothness of the Sovol is highly attractive...tough choice...
Hey Devon. I recently got an Artillery Sidewinder X1 of my own, but I'm still pretty new to 3D printing, so I know for a fact that there are some things I could fine tune with my machine. Is there any chance you could make or direct me to a good calibration guide? Like at 6:51 when you were talking about extruder tension. I know my machine is gripping my filament tighter than it should, and everyone said I had to lessen the tension on it, but I actually had no idea how to until I saw this bit 😅 Thank you in advance!
directly change the extrusor for a boundtech. put a rear bars to cancel the z movement and buy magnet bed ( two trees is a good chance). after that you will have a ferrari printing at home.
@@epicyrein7958 I had them at first too then i cleaned the Bed with Window Cleaner to get all the grease off, that helped . Leveling is key here. if you have a warped bed, maybe try an firmware Update from Nexus 3d with Mesh bed leveling. I just updated yesterday.
I used to work making booklets and the stitching heads on those machines fed the wire directly into the head and also had tension controls. I wondered why extruders on 3D printing machines didn't have the same direct feed system & controls. Now I know that someone did see the common sense approach to the correct approach to filament feeding into the extruder.
The genius is faster at bed heating because it's not actually 24V - it's dumping mains voltage directly into the heater. Makes me nervous as heck from a safety perspective, but it's really nice for getting a print started!
I got my ender 3 and major no stick build plate. After a week of videos and testing. I have mastered the build plate stick. Initial Layer I set mine to 150% and bed temp set to 230 C to work with PLA. Ultimaker Cura 4.6.2 has this setting to low. Once I set flow to 230c. Not one problem using Skirt or Brim.
As I'm printing most of my stuff in ABS, his tests are kinda worthless though... none of those models is actually prone to warping (even if he says so). Most have very little contact surface, are round and the "router clip" is like 1.5 mm thick. That's not where you'll see warping usually. A simple 10x1x1cm box without brim would have been a way better test then any of those prints. I'm pretty sure i could recreate those prints without any form of "enclosure".
The Sovol prints flexible filament very well. Add a small piece of PTFE tube inside the plastic piece that is between the gears and the heatsink and you will see fantastic results also with flexible.
@@sherrimaltby3598 If he has had the printer for a few months, the tube did not come. I have 4 Sovols, bought last year in different months and I had to add the tube to all of them. I'm glad it's fixed now, it's a fantastic printer. :)
Given how long you've used these printers, what have you had to do in the way of maintenance? Replacement parts, in particular. And have you considered any of the various upgrades recommended by the communities using each of the printers?
No ritzy man, I print flexible Ninja-Flex and Filaflex every day and it works great out of the box with the Sovol SV01. I think the right Printerprofile will help.
Can I just say that Sovol SV01 looks almost identical to the Ender 3 pro. It's like when you are young and lose your mom in the grocery store so you find someone who is wearing almost the same clothes and run-up to that and call them mom, but you were mistaken.
Clean off the lead screws on the Genius. Your banding is likely being caused by tiny debris sticking to that thick lubricant. Clean the threads and nut.. Then use a lube that doesn't attract dust. Should help with that issue.
I purchased the Sidewinder X1 as my first printer mostly because of the heated bed and print volume. I thought I did a lot of research before purchasing but didn't even know the direct drive vs. bowden was a thing. I guess I got lucky with my purchase! I do have issues sometimes with z banding. Didn't know that there was a gear tensioner screw before watching this so thank you! I'll see if that solves my issue.
Try to get the moire on Bristol board instead. On absorbing fabric the print will probably never stay sharp enough... And if you would treat the fabric first to reduce absorption, the print in unlikely to stick. Apart from heat roll moires, on a dense polyester moire might emerge but finding a paint that works and sticks through a wash is the tricky bit. Also, remember overlock thread is often fuzzier than normal thread. You choose your filament carefully, same applies to the thread 🙂
There are also the indirected direct drive upgrades like Flex3Drive (this one I've tested) and Zesty Nimble. These combine the advantages of both worlds. There you can print at 75mm/s at the slow end because you prefer quality over speed or you can print extremely flexible filaments.
I have recently received the genius and had perfect prints every time since. I use Simplify3D's profile for the sidewinder and just changed the bed size. haven't had a problem yet and no z banding with mine. Great video, I'm waiting on making room for the artillery sidewinder since it was bigger than i thought. Also i highly recommend the Micro Swiss High Flow Volcano plated nozzle, the plastic doesn't stick the the nozzle and make a noticeable improvement to the print quality
what do you mean with changing the bed size? did you extend it in one direction? I am planning to do this on my home build printer and buy an sidewinder x1 as primary printer for all parts that aren't extremely long
@@chyrt in simplify3d i used the sidewinder print profile that was provided from simplify3d. then i changed the bed size in the profile to match the size of the artillery genius. if you are buying a sidewinder there is really no need to change the settings in the simplify3d profile
Thank you for this great video. I'm just trying to get started in 3d printing so my knowledge is very limited. I had a few questions, I hope you could answer: 1) Are you still recommending these as your favorite printers 8 months since this video? 2) With the additional information and changes to the SV01, it looks like that could be your favorite of these three? And, is the noise of the SV01 a turn-off that should steer me toward the Genius? 3) How can I tell if I'm getting the corrected SV01 or not if I go to buy one? 4) Do you have any great, beginner friendly video for getting the SV01 or Genius set up and running, making any necessary modifications to it, etc. Basically a Getting Started guide? Would love that. 5) What about the SV02 versus these printers?
1. For beginner printers, yep, these are still favorites of mine 2. The changes I'm familiar with were done early on and anything you buy new likely updated 3. Buy from Sovol's website directly, or their Amazon store *links in description ;) 4. I don't have such a video, but look for Ender 3 or even CR-10 setup videos. They're more plentiful and more or less the same process. There's also a manual 5. I avoid dual material printers. They're a lot more prone to issues.
by the way, there’s a silent motherboard upgrade which can really reduce the noise from the stepper motors, but the only other problem might be the fans
Try to replace drivers first(for example, try with 2209 first, it's low price), if noising is the only issue . I have DIY printer, and a same module of printer mentioned in this video, it's not necessary the stock one would (always) be better than the DIYed one.
NOO. I have just bought a artillery genius. I want to support your channel but the video was 1 day too late to do it.. At least I still support you on patreon:)
Hello, afaik, the belt on the dual z lead screws helps to keep them in sync and help prevent one side from sagging form either gravity or while loading filament
@@make.anything All kinds of stuffs, RC cars, quadcopter frames, with PLA, TPU and PETG. I am also trying to mod it for improvements. Thanks for the review BTW, It's a decent machine. :)
Almost got an Ender 3 V2 but I do want to do flexible material and have less tinkering to get it running, plus I really wanted to avoid Bowden setups. Thanks for this!
In the UK we call the network kind a rooter, which avoids some confusion, but I think traditionally both would have been called a rooter (we just pronounce route as root in general).
Hey Devin, at 07:48 it looks like the Genius bed was so fast to heat up compared to its contestants, because you actually measured the time of the hot-end heating up to 70° instead of the printbed. (i only noticed it watching the video for the second time)
The atillerys use 8-bit boards with silent stepper drivers which get more hot than actual TMC´s. Sometimes I hat an inconsistent layerhight because of an single missed step, which might be the result of a hot driver (but I can not tell for sure). Never hat this on the sovol. Also its quiete simple to upgrade the sovol: An SKR e3 mini fits perfectly: only you have to make or buy an adapter to connect both z-motors. So you can make the SV01 silent for less than 30 bucks and also go 32-nit while doing so. The TMC2209 go not as hot as the cheap silent drivers on the sidewinder. The print quality of the solvol (if you add the little piece of tube missing) is definitly better than on the sidewinder. Thats quite normal, as the volcano has a longer meltzone. So you have mor molten plastic ready to go, causing more droping and therefore stinging. As molten palstic is vicous, the output of the nozzle reacts slower to the feeders actions (might compensate it wit tuning linear advance). So a volcano only is usefull with a bigger nozzle diameter. You can add a volcano on the SV01 - need another fanshroud, wich can easaly printed and you move up the endstop a little. So you can print with a 0.6 or 0.6 nozzle quite fast a lot of faceshields. You can undo such a change in 15 minutes, going back to 0.4mm with more precise flow. Changing the sidewinder from volcano to normal block is much more problematic. With the shorter block the nozzle is higher than the rolls of the x-carriage. So the rolls contact with the bed, before tzhe nozzle reaches it. So you have to redesign the whole extruder mount. Another point: I love PEI powder coated spring steel. You can get such a surface at Aliexpress/Energetic 3d store for about 38$ (or lower if there is a sale and coupons available). Price includes magnetic base. Price for Sovol is the same, as its not regulary in stock, but they cut down the bigger one for free if you ask them. On the sidewinder the bed gets heavier (more risk of ringing) while on the SV01 you actual replace the glas, so less weigt on y. Also better heat conductivity of the bed. With a spring steel, also adding ABL gets cheap. No need for an expansive BL touch. If you want to add ABL anyways, most likely you would buy normaly a BL-Touch for around $45. With a spring steel bed surface ($38 or less) you get the same good result using an inductive probe ($5 or less) - so upgrading to PEI powder coated magnetic spring steel + ABL cost less than adding ABL only. And you get the nice structure you may know from the Prusa mk3(s) and Prusa Mini. I like both, the sidewinder and the SV01 (do not own the genius). At all I like the Sovol more; even after replacing the printhead of the sidewinder by an Hemera (with normal sized heatblock) (I destroid original hotend, which was totaly my falt. Changed the nozzle, not tightend it enouch and than printed unattended. Big blob of plastic destroyed a lot). Never had any problem with the sovol (after adding the pieze of tube in the feeder).
12:40 - I would say the X1 and the Genius has issues with the prints that does not seem to be from Z bending. i would say - friction in the material (sensor? spool? extruder grip) + not properly configured E-steps for this filament.
I got the artillery as my first 3d printer but the layer line are uneven and look horrible nothing like yours and everyone's else's is there anything to fix it?
*Corrections:*
- The Artillery Sidewinder X1 and Genius actually heat the bed using mains voltage (110V in US) which is why it's super quick
- Multiple reports that the latest version SV01's are capable of printing flexible filaments really well. Apparently I just need to add a small piece of PTFE tube above the heatsink. I've gotta try that!
- It looks like one of the Z rods on the Genius is slightly bent. That may explain the z-banding I saw. You can see if on the left side at 6:16
Thanks wise viewers for schooling me :)
Nerys would say: Remove the bearings and the belt on top of the Genius and let the rods rotate freely! :) And I have seen many creators confirm this. Did you try this, for getting rid of the Z bending?
@@elmariachi5133 i'm sure it will work , unless the screws are bent real bad, when i got my 3D printer i added bearings at the top of the leadscrews too , then i realized how it could make things worse, i had left them on anyway because it's an anet A6 3d printer and having the weight supported both top and bottom makes for better prints , guess i got lucky and got pretty straight screws, if i remove the bearings the weight will push too much on the bottom plates when it tries to raise to next layer and will have inconsistent layer height.
if it were a metal frame 3D printer i would remove them asap.
Yes, I think so, too of course. But I'm afraid, Devin didn't read the comment :(
So you said that the ninja flex gets tangled in the Extruder of the SV01. There was a fix to that if you took apart the Extruder and added in a small piece of PTFE tubing to it. Just with that little addition I was able to get my Sovol to print flexibles just as good as the Sidewinder that I own.
Sorry for the 3 minute silent intro... I zenned out and I fear the algorithm may punish me. Pls like n sub :O
Make Anything I will share this xtra much
Not a problem! Always a great watch!
It feels so refreshing! Hope you don't get punished for it ❤️
I thought you’d transitioned to ASMR
I liked it. Much more sedate and calming than your usual presentation. :)
As a 15 year old product designer/gamer and general nerd, the Sidewinder X1 is amazing! my first 3D printer, its been so Eazy to use, and its basically silent! im currently working on Raidens sword from metal gear, and a pc case. overall very happy with it!
My SV01 prints flexible filament perfectly. I’m guessing your printer is one of the first runs which doesn’t have the ptfe tubing in the hot end. They have fixed this issue and the new batches can print flexible perfectly out of the box. Love the sovol.
i can also print flexible on my SV01 without issue
I have a Sovol SV01 and it is the best of my three 3d printers (the others are bowden printers). Printing flexible filament is not a problem with Sovol, you need only to put a small ptfe tube into the cylindrical piece where you insert the filament above the heatsink and voila (there is videos on RUclips to explain how to do it). I print flexible filaments flawless.
Pretty sure I'm gonna go with a sidewinder for my entry into product design and 3D printing. Been eyeing it up for a while now. The sheer versatility and quietness of the artillery printers has won me over.
I already have a Sidewinder, so I'm just here to reaffirm my purchase.
i own a genius cant say to much for it.
robert roberts so... you do or don’t like it?
@@robertroberts2795 so is that a yay or nay
What slicer software are you guys using for the sidewinder x1?
@@noeservellon I'm using cura with the cr-10 profile
Hey Devin! Very nice review! I have a Sidewinder X1 running and as far as I know, the artillery printer's bed is AC heated, that's why it could get to temperature a lot faster. Love your channel!
Yes, i just had to install a new PSU in my Sideiwinder, so i know for sure, that the heated bed is directly connected to 110V/220V. It is switched on and off by a solid state relais, which gets its signal from the mainboard.
The Sidewinder is an awsome printer. Printing out of the box for a year with no fails.
I just scored a sidewinder from facebook for $325 with 3 spools of filament and so far I am super impressed and happy with it. I was debating between ender 5 plus and cr10 pro, I am glad this popped up for sale near me at the right time. Great video like always, also reassures me I got a good printer
My wife just bought me my first 3D printer. The Artillery Genius. I have been watching your channel to learn a lot about 3D printing in general and you have very creative ideas that I will love to try making. Thanks man!
Best wife
Ok the t-shirt didn't turn out how you intended but I think it looks really cool. I didn't realise it wasn't meant to be like that until you said!
The sv01 was upgraded. It is selling on amazon for 259 with upgraded silent board, upgraded maxwell power supply which heats up the bed much quicker, the heads are upgraded letting you print with flexible filament. What sold me on sv01 was how clean prints look compared to $500+ printers and also the fact that I can laser engrave with is using the laser engraver attachment.
I'll be trying it soon!
Hey Devin, can you please do a video for absolute beginners about how to start printing - settings, things to put in mind and tips?
Loving your content!
This.
@@mururoa7024 whatch his *make anything* videos he made.
@@capblueberry7899 Thanks but I think I'm good. It's been 8 months and in the meanwhile I learned how to do everything, including upgrading just about everything on my Sidewinder X1, programming a custom Marlin and printing perfectly smooth large surfaces at 80mm/s with zero artefacts. 👍
@@mururoa7024 oh haha, I did not see it was 8 months ago 😅.
After many hours of listening / reading product reviews I have come to a decision! Thank you Make Anything I have decided to go with the Artillery Sidewinder X1 because of your well informed video. I hope to have many, many hours of use with the new addition to my passion for 3d printing.
Merry Christmas sir!
You’re actually the reason I bought my sidewinder. It’s my first printer and I’ve been having a blast with it! Thanks for the recommendation!
Same. I went from my tevo tornado to a X1 and I love this printer its far more user friendly and easier to set up then my Tevo which I absolutely love.
I haven't had any luck printing bearings on my printer so I got excited when I saw one at the start of the video lol
increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed put some gluestick on the bed spread it with a wet paper towel heat the bed until it looks clean thats how i do it if your initial layer is too squeshed the diffrent parts of the bearing wil stick togheter hope this helps you beceause it really is satisfying to print them bearings! XD
@@aiko6035 thank you so much for the suggestions! I've been trying to print successful bearings forever with no luck :( Im going to try this tomorrow and hopefully it works! Ty 😁😁
No I’m a potato not you
When you 3D-print a manual pattern printer
I have an Ender 3 and when I got the MDD mod it changed my printing life, seriously a beast.
Hanzo Factory where exactly did you get it? I have an Ender 3 and have been having some trouble with it lately
@@quindumouchelle233 what kind of trouble have you been having?
I have to thank you I knew from the get-go that from your first review that the artillery sidewinder was the printer for me and it has not given me any trouble that a little tweaking cant fix.
Just a heads up, serger thread tends to be relatively low quality and can cause issues if used in regular home machines due to excessive lint and fluff buildup. It certainly can be done, especially if you're vigilant about machine maintenance, but the easiest way to keep a machine in good working order for as long as possible starts with high quality thread. Brands like Aurifil and Gutermann are also available on large spools for quite good prices and are very high quality threads.
Thanks for the heads up!
I feel like the conclusion I'm coming to is that I should buy the Artillery Sidewinder X1. I've already been considering it...
12:42 I can see why you have z-banding on the genius, look how the left Z screw wobbles !
The pattern doesn't look fine and repetitive enough to be from the Z screw alone. I suspect filament with poor diameter tolerance.
@@heyarno I'm a newb to this, seems there arw a lot of factors involved in good print quality.
Which of the above machines would you choose?
@@thomashenderson3901 Sorry, I neither know what your priorities are, nor did I have personal experience with any of the above models. I'm using a home made I3 MK2 clone and a CR-10 300. As well as a 3d pen. It's also a matter of your ability to modify the printer to your needs. If you need it to be close to what you need from the factory, you should chose that model. If you can mod it, you should chose whatever is best in general and fix whatever issue would keep you from choosing it over another.
@@heyarno Fair point, and I respect your honesty.
Speed - Low priority.
Size and accuracy - High priority.
After a lot of searching I think I will go with the Sidewinder. The Sovol seems great but I want to make larger objects and there's little else to compete with the sidewinder for size at that price.
Thanks again.
Likely not caused by the slight lead screw wobble. Keep in mind the lead screw pushes up and down, the wheels keep it squared to the frame.
If you look closely,, see the gunk on the lead screw thread.. THAT is likely the cause. All it takes is a tiny piece of debris to get into the nut or on the thread, and you get banding issues. Thick lubricants that attract dust on the lead screw will do that.
The beds on the artillery machines are actually 120v ac powered. So it actually powered by the outlet. The main board controls them with a solid state relay.
Well that explains those insane speeds!
@@make.anything I would highly recommend printing some cable strain relief clips for the bed cables because you really don't want those to wear out.
I was so impressed with the Sovol that I bought 5! BTW, the newer SVO1 has different hotend internals that allow for TPU printing with no problems.
Hello. I am looking to get my husband a 3D printer for his birthday and I think you sold me on the Sovol. I'm new to this so I may not be using the correct terminology but, can the Sovol be upgraded? If I'm not mistaken people like the Ender 3 and Creality so much because of all the extra "stuff" you can add to it by stuff I mean upgraded programs etc. Can you do the same with the Sovol?
My friend is letting me borrow his Monoprice Select Plus, and I'm having a blast making stuff! I definitely plan on upgrading soon though as the quality isn't amazing. This is exactly the video I was looking for and that X1 looks perfect for me! Thank you!
The new artillery sidewinder x1 models changed the heatbreak to a locked one not a threaded one and the way the heatbreak fits against the nozzle is a concave fit. Basically it keeps you from using anyone else's parts but theirs.
This weekend I finally slapped that direct-drive Hemera onto my Ender 3, and my god, this is amazing.
My Artillery Sidewinder X1 arrives next week! It’s my second printer (my first was the Creality CR-10 V2) and I can’t wait!
My first 3D printer (home designed repstrap) is a direct drive unit. I then printed parts to make a RepRap Wilson printer. This one has taken quite some time to get working well, and I've converted it to a Bowden extruder to get the weight of the extruder stepping motor off of the print head carriage. This to attempt to get the printer to run a bit faster as I'm using smaller sized motors than the first printer. The Bowden setup works. I haven't tried flexible filament yet, and will limit that to the Repstrap which is a larger printer as well (250 x 200 x 300 mm VS 200 x 200 x 190 mm print volume). My RepRap uses a home made heated bed (aluminum plate with sand resistors JB welded to bottom) running on 44 VAC (stepdown transformer, relay switched).
X1 is excellent. It has not missed a beat in the year since i got it.
Love the turtle footage - I love all your content, thanks for another great video - I recieved a Lulzbot Mini 2 as a gift and sometimes wish it was 2 Sidewinders instead. C'est la vie!
For all the diy guys here , i extremly recomend using a flat flex for the moving parts , its a life changer in terms of relieblity .
A Red Eared Slider! Used to have one with nearly identical markings when I was a kid!
Sidewinder X1 was my first printer I ever bought. Definitely glad I did. It's still rocking hard
What a difference a couple years makes. SV01 Pro with auto leveling is $229 now. But the printer I'm really wanting to see come out is the new Bamboo P1P with it's CRAZY fast print speed at $699... that will give a shove to the market I believe if it works like the X1 does from them...
I love my ender3 with a direct drive, and now I can trust the printer
I have not tryed glass as build plate, but love my WhamBam steel/pex
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
I made my own glass bed for my ender 3😂 BEST UPGRADE EVER! It instantly improves the initial layers by making it very smooth and glossy. I just use some hairspray for better buildplate adhesion
12:42 Left side Z rod is warped on the Genius.
Yes... that's cause the uneven layers....
yeah that caught my eye too, was wondering if other people noticed... that left screw is 100% bent and wobbly and i think that is causing the issues.. im really wondering if you could make a print farm out of genius printers... so far i have 3x mk3s... but maybe i want to try something cheaper
Also the thread pitch the lead screws is way to big. It looks like it three or for leads. Threads like that are hard to make at those small diameters without a lot of backlash. There's no for the z axis to move that much with each revolution. All of these things can have a negative impact on resolution.
12:18 this is usually due to the heated bed bending when it warms/cools by the heating element being switched on and of to maintain temp. Try PLA and turn off bed heating to see if the banding dissapears. It has to do with the firmware and how the bed is switched/controlled to get a better result.
I'm just watching this.. but my SV01 printed the Overture TPU very well right out of the box..
Fantastic.. Thanks so much fot this.. It makes me feeling confident in ordering my Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer V4.. Today..
I’m new to 3D printing and I’ve got an sidewinder x1 for a month . Haven’t tuned much but it works well, it will be great if you can make a video on tuning it. Been killing it with just printing with 1.5 mm thin walls with 0.4 mm space between (multiple live joints builds) and it worked really well. Z banding is quite something that the sidewinder x1 is facing (especially within the community). Thanks 🙏🏻
I had been looking pretty hard at the sidewinder, i think thats the one im gonna go with now
Love your videos. Your last review of the Sidewinder caused me to buy it as my first printer and it just came today! Glad to see it is still at the top of your list!
Hey Devin, your content is just quality. Much appreciated and please keep at it.
Just got the sidewinder a little over a month ago. Has worked great so far. Only worry about those cables. But so far no problems.
Thought about picking up a prusa MK3s... but you could buy the X1 and the genius for the same cost. Which is what I did, never looked back.
I mean, I don't NEED the build volume of the Sidewinder X1, but I definitely WANT it ;)
Great review. Looking for my first printer and I'm definitely leaning towards the X1, but the smoothness of the Sovol is highly attractive...tough choice...
Hey Devon. I recently got an Artillery Sidewinder X1 of my own, but I'm still pretty new to 3D printing, so I know for a fact that there are some things I could fine tune with my machine. Is there any chance you could make or direct me to a good calibration guide? Like at 6:51 when you were talking about extruder tension. I know my machine is gripping my filament tighter than it should, and everyone said I had to lessen the tension on it, but I actually had no idea how to until I saw this bit 😅
Thank you in advance!
Same, recently got a sidewinder and had some problems like prints not sticking to the bed.
@@epicyrein7958 Use Isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed, it works perfectly for me for the sidewinder.
directly change the extrusor for a boundtech. put a rear bars to cancel the z movement and buy magnet bed ( two trees is a good chance). after that you will have a ferrari printing at home.
@@epicyrein7958 I had them at first too then i cleaned the Bed with Window Cleaner to get all the grease off, that helped .
Leveling is key here. if you have a warped bed, maybe try an firmware Update from Nexus 3d with Mesh bed leveling.
I just updated yesterday.
I used to work making booklets and the stitching heads on those machines fed the wire directly into the head and also had tension controls. I wondered why extruders on 3D printing machines didn't have the same direct feed system & controls.
Now I know that someone did see the common sense approach to the correct approach to filament feeding into the extruder.
Can you make a video on how to calibrate this printer.? I can’t seem to find any good tutorial
Thank you Sovol, you are my favorite filament seller :)
The genius is faster at bed heating because it's not actually 24V - it's dumping mains voltage directly into the heater. Makes me nervous as heck from a safety perspective, but it's really nice for getting a print started!
I got my ender 3 and major no stick build plate. After a week of videos and testing. I have mastered the build plate stick. Initial Layer I set mine to 150% and bed temp set to 230 C to work with PLA.
Ultimaker Cura 4.6.2 has this setting to low. Once I set flow to 230c. Not one problem using Skirt or Brim.
So glad I got the X1 on Black Friday for $350. It was a steal and I love it!
Thanks for the ABS tests!. There are some of us that are interested soley in the functional category of printing
As I'm printing most of my stuff in ABS, his tests are kinda worthless though... none of those models is actually prone to warping (even if he says so). Most have very little contact surface, are round and the "router clip" is like 1.5 mm thick. That's not where you'll see warping usually. A simple 10x1x1cm box without brim would have been a way better test then any of those prints. I'm pretty sure i could recreate those prints without any form of "enclosure".
The Sovol prints flexible filament very well. Add a small piece of PTFE tube inside the plastic piece that is between the gears and the heatsink and you will see fantastic results also with flexible.
NRom No need to add the PTFE tube now , it already has.
@@sherrimaltby3598 If he has had the printer for a few months, the tube did not come. I have 4 Sovols, bought last year in different months and I had to add the tube to all of them. I'm glad it's fixed now, it's a fantastic printer. :)
Given how long you've used these printers, what have you had to do in the way of maintenance? Replacement parts, in particular. And have you considered any of the various upgrades recommended by the communities using each of the printers?
I keep coming back to this amazing review.
No ritzy man, I print flexible Ninja-Flex and Filaflex every day and it works great out of the box with the Sovol SV01. I think the right Printerprofile will help.
Can I just say that Sovol SV01 looks almost identical to the Ender 3 pro. It's like when you are young and lose your mom in the grocery store so you find someone who is wearing almost the same clothes and run-up to that and call them mom, but you were mistaken.
"Wait... mom isn't direct drive!" o.O
Clean off the lead screws on the Genius. Your banding is likely being caused by tiny debris sticking to that thick lubricant.
Clean the threads and nut.. Then use a lube that doesn't attract dust.
Should help with that issue.
I purchased the Sidewinder X1 as my first printer mostly because of the heated bed and print volume. I thought I did a lot of research before purchasing but didn't even know the direct drive vs. bowden was a thing. I guess I got lucky with my purchase!
I do have issues sometimes with z banding. Didn't know that there was a gear tensioner screw before watching this so thank you! I'll see if that solves my issue.
Try to get the moire on Bristol board instead. On absorbing fabric the print will probably never stay sharp enough... And if you would treat the fabric first to reduce absorption, the print in unlikely to stick. Apart from heat roll moires, on a dense polyester moire might emerge but finding a paint that works and sticks through a wash is the tricky bit.
Also, remember overlock thread is often fuzzier than normal thread. You choose your filament carefully, same applies to the thread 🙂
Your Genius has a bent z rod (there is a noticeable wobble at the top)
There are also the indirected direct drive upgrades like Flex3Drive (this one I've tested) and Zesty Nimble. These combine the advantages of both worlds.
There you can print at 75mm/s at the slow end because you prefer quality over speed or you can print extremely flexible filaments.
I have recently received the genius and had perfect prints every time since. I use Simplify3D's profile for the sidewinder and just changed the bed size. haven't had a problem yet and no z banding with mine. Great video, I'm waiting on making room for the artillery sidewinder since it was bigger than i thought. Also i highly recommend the Micro Swiss High Flow Volcano plated nozzle, the plastic doesn't stick the the nozzle and make a noticeable improvement to the print quality
what do you mean with changing the bed size? did you extend it in one direction?
I am planning to do this on my home build printer and buy an sidewinder x1 as primary printer for all parts that aren't extremely long
@@chyrt in simplify3d i used the sidewinder print profile that was provided from simplify3d. then i changed the bed size in the profile to match the size of the artillery genius. if you are buying a sidewinder there is really no need to change the settings in the simplify3d profile
Thank you for this great video. I'm just trying to get started in 3d printing so my knowledge is very limited. I had a few questions, I hope you could answer:
1) Are you still recommending these as your favorite printers 8 months since this video?
2) With the additional information and changes to the SV01, it looks like that could be your favorite of these three? And, is the noise of the SV01 a turn-off that should steer me toward the Genius?
3) How can I tell if I'm getting the corrected SV01 or not if I go to buy one?
4) Do you have any great, beginner friendly video for getting the SV01 or Genius set up and running, making any necessary modifications to it, etc. Basically a Getting Started guide? Would love that.
5) What about the SV02 versus these printers?
1. For beginner printers, yep, these are still favorites of mine
2. The changes I'm familiar with were done early on and anything you buy new likely updated
3. Buy from Sovol's website directly, or their Amazon store *links in description ;)
4. I don't have such a video, but look for Ender 3 or even CR-10 setup videos. They're more plentiful and more or less the same process. There's also a manual
5. I avoid dual material printers. They're a lot more prone to issues.
Thanks a lot, really appreciate it!! Would you go with the Genius or the SV01 for a first printer?
by the way, there’s a silent motherboard upgrade which can really reduce the noise from the stepper motors, but the only other problem might be the fans
For bowden systems, upgrade your tubing to Capricorn tubing. Smaller diameter tolerance solved all my issues and it is amazing.
My diy printer is so loud I’m glad I’m getting a second that should be much quite.
Awesome that you made one DIY in the first place.
Skelten s agreed. Going DIY is IMO the best option, because you can build exactly what you need for your specific application.
You can change the stepper motor drivers to make your DIY printer work more smooth and silent :)
Try to replace drivers first(for example, try with 2209 first, it's low price), if noising is the only issue . I have DIY printer, and a same module of printer mentioned in this video, it's not necessary the stock one would (always) be better than the DIYed one.
I have a Balco 3DTouch and that's a direct extruder printer! And that works really good! You make really good video's!!
Loved the review Devin you sure put a lot of time and effort into this review! I too love my Sidewinder X1
NOO. I have just bought a artillery genius. I want to support your channel but the video was 1 day too late to do it.. At least I still support you on patreon:)
This was such a good video with a ton of great info. The button smash was def a nice touch!
I actually like the shirt it looks cool
Just got a Sovol SV01. With no tuning it prints Ninjaflex with no issues
can you please have another live stream of designing things in fusion 360 please?
Awesome comparison! Wish they made more direct-drive printers. At least we can always upgrade after the fact.
Just ordered an artillery genius after a bad experience with my ender 3(I didn’t even get to use it really, rip), can’t wait to print flexible things
There is a snap on 2020/2040 bearing spool holder on thingiverse. Gravity holds it very firmly, but it’s very easy to remove and adjust
Hello, afaik, the belt on the dual z lead screws helps to keep them in sync and help prevent one side from sagging form either gravity or while loading filament
Thank you for your support
Last year, I bought an X1 after watching you video.
Nice, what do you print?
@@make.anything All kinds of stuffs, RC cars, quadcopter frames, with PLA, TPU and PETG. I am also trying to mod it for improvements. Thanks for the review BTW, It's a decent machine. :)
Almost got an Ender 3 V2 but I do want to do flexible material and have less tinkering to get it running, plus I really wanted to avoid Bowden setups. Thanks for this!
Good comparison :)
Im going for the Sidewinder as my first printer.
20:10 - That's the oddest router part I've ever seen. 20:24 - Ohhhhhh THAT kind of router.
In the UK we call the network kind a rooter, which avoids some confusion, but I think traditionally both would have been called a rooter (we just pronounce route as root in general).
Hey Devin, at 07:48 it looks like the Genius bed was so fast to heat up compared to its contestants, because you actually measured the time of the hot-end heating up to 70° instead of the printbed. (i only noticed it watching the video for the second time)
Timely. Love that app.
The atillerys use 8-bit boards with silent stepper drivers which get more hot than actual TMC´s. Sometimes I hat an inconsistent layerhight because of an single missed step, which might be the result of a hot driver (but I can not tell for sure). Never hat this on the sovol.
Also its quiete simple to upgrade the sovol: An SKR e3 mini fits perfectly: only you have to make or buy an adapter to connect both z-motors. So you can make the SV01 silent for less than 30 bucks and also go 32-nit while doing so. The TMC2209 go not as hot as the cheap silent drivers on the sidewinder.
The print quality of the solvol (if you add the little piece of tube missing) is definitly better than on the sidewinder. Thats quite normal, as the volcano has a longer meltzone. So you have mor molten plastic ready to go, causing more droping and therefore stinging. As molten palstic is vicous, the output of the nozzle reacts slower to the feeders actions (might compensate it wit tuning linear advance). So a volcano only is usefull with a bigger nozzle diameter. You can add a volcano on the SV01 - need another fanshroud, wich can easaly printed and you move up the endstop a little. So you can print with a 0.6 or 0.6 nozzle quite fast a lot of faceshields. You can undo such a change in 15 minutes, going back to 0.4mm with more precise flow.
Changing the sidewinder from volcano to normal block is much more problematic. With the shorter block the nozzle is higher than the rolls of the x-carriage. So the rolls contact with the bed, before tzhe nozzle reaches it. So you have to redesign the whole extruder mount.
Another point: I love PEI powder coated spring steel. You can get such a surface at Aliexpress/Energetic 3d store for about 38$ (or lower if there is a sale and coupons available). Price includes magnetic base. Price for Sovol is the same, as its not regulary in stock, but they cut down the bigger one for free if you ask them. On the sidewinder the bed gets heavier (more risk of ringing) while on the SV01 you actual replace the glas, so less weigt on y. Also better heat conductivity of the bed.
With a spring steel, also adding ABL gets cheap. No need for an expansive BL touch. If you want to add ABL anyways, most likely you would buy normaly a BL-Touch for around $45. With a spring steel bed surface ($38 or less) you get the same good result using an inductive probe ($5 or less) - so upgrading to PEI powder coated magnetic spring steel + ABL cost less than adding ABL only. And you get the nice structure you may know from the Prusa mk3(s) and Prusa Mini.
I like both, the sidewinder and the SV01 (do not own the genius). At all I like the Sovol more; even after replacing the printhead of the sidewinder by an Hemera (with normal sized heatblock) (I destroid original hotend, which was totaly my falt. Changed the nozzle, not tightend it enouch and than printed unattended. Big blob of plastic destroyed a lot). Never had any problem with the sovol (after adding the pieze of tube in the feeder).
Good insights, thank you for sharing!
Love your stuff and videos plus your talent with energy you represent! Thank you for sharing with us your ideas!!!
Thanks, now I am unsure about my recent purchase of the Prusa i3 MK3S. Was that the richt choice?!
It's the best for that size.
Just bough an Anycubic Mega. Bowden, but loving it with PLA and ABS.
I still love me an Anycubic mega as well :)
Thank you for this review! It's really helping my research for a first printer.
ALTERNATE TITLE: "Toying with a turtle" :D
07:35 While true that it uses 24V for the mainboard etc, the bed is heated using AC power from the mains input of the printer.
You should try Flex3drive or a Zesty nimble ... Best of both world...
12:40 - I would say the X1 and the Genius has issues with the prints that does not seem to be from Z bending. i would say - friction in the material (sensor? spool? extruder grip) + not properly configured E-steps for this filament.
I don't miss dd since i got a better dual geared extruder and proper tubing for my ender 3 pro. i can print floppy no problem now.
What extruder did you go with?
I got the artillery as my first 3d printer but the layer line are uneven and look horrible nothing like yours and everyone's else's is there anything to fix it?