Hey Devin, there are a couple things that I noticed. First, you have the reservoir in backwards. You want the notch to be in the front right corner to make it easier to pour resin into it while printing, and when removing. Also, it appears that you didn’t fully cure the prints, as they were way to flexible. It’s a misnomer that you can let them sit in the Sun for a few hours. It would take days. It takes a few hours to fully cure prints with a 60W UV lamp. As for the failures, that is due to the build plate not being flat. I used 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper to level the plate against a perfectly flat marble surface. Sand it down until there is no black anodization on the plate. You can either leave it that way, or continue to smooth it with 400 grit. Then make sure you level it properly. You didn’t show the test to ensure that it was flat, where you slide the paper in and out. Pay special attention to the corners. The good thing is that they replaced the screws on your build plate with bolts, which is what you need to do if you buy the normal Elegoo Mars. If you want truly accurate prints, you’ll also want to manually set the Z axis zero. There are other things in the configuration that will make life easier too, so I suggest looking into them. I don’t have the links right now, but I can get them when I get home, if you need them. Great content!
@@make.anything Fantastic video, few more small things i hope save you some time! silicone sculpting tools are a great way to stir up your vat and the edged ones will also usually remove failed prints from the vat with a guarantee that you won't scratch anything I would advise against paper towels on the vat! They leave lint and micro scratches and greatly increase the probability of something sticking to the surface. Pick up some PEC-PADs for photography, they are very cheap and you can use them for you camera gear too! Great for cleaning the screen and other clear surfaces. Most of the time you won't need to drain the entire vat for a failed print, if it's a large flat surface, you can use the silicone tools or your fingers (wearing gloves obviously) to extricate it. Ambient temperature has a dramatic impact on print success, generally, warmer is better but consistent temperature is also critical. take a look at egg incubators, they are cheap, you can position the thermocouple as needed and usually a ikea container or even a tote is enough insulation. Might consider inverting your model if you are going to sand the surface regardless those "drip details would come out perfect A #11 scalpel is a great tool for cleaning off supports, very cheap too. Typically two separate washes of alcohol are used, if that's what your manufacturer suggests though, i would defer to that. A tooth brush really helps clean out those details after ten minutes of soaking in alcohol. Finally, i second the build plate abrasion. (note: i use a Moai 130 and Form 2 so there may be some machine specific differences) Love your content and look forward to your future uploads!
I would add that it is easier to remove the supports before fully curing. This is information I only have second hand knowledge of as I have not yet printed anything on my Mars.
giliant you can use Kimwipes and alcohol on the film, as they are lint free and are non-abrasive when wet. Kimwipes are heavily used in the electronics industry, and very minor scratches on the film don’t affect print quality. 😎
I would recommend removing supports before the final cure. They're much easier to remove and have much less of a chance of shattering/pitting parts of print. I usually just pop them off by hand after washing, and letting them dry.
@@make.anything Resin OEM here. We would recommend keeping the supports on for 2 reasons: - some prints cannot stand on its own so you need support to keep it upright for curing - prints shrinkage during post-curing. For long / thing parts, keeping support on would prevent/reduce wrapping during the post-curing stage.
I like that you always have such a high attention to detailing and finishing. I learn a lot from these videos. That also sets you apart from many other RUclips creators.
I've been sick for a week sitting at my desk looking like hell, but... still a nice message at the beginning and it's sweet to start that way. thank you
I had the same trouble. You don't need to drain the tank to remove a failed print from the FEP sheet. Take the tank out and hold it level so you don't spill anything. Using light pressure, run your finger underneath the failed print from one end to the other. The failed print will peel away and you can fish it out with the plastic scraper.
Hey Devin. I enjoy your videos and i don't like to be this guy, but please make sure you use (and point out to use) a proper respirator that takes care of organic vapors when dealing with the resin. I do own this fantastic printer, and the supplied face mask does not protect you from anything but splashes. 3M has a 'A2' filter that removes all odor and (as far as i could find) takes care of the other stuff as well. And of course as others have pointed out, be safe, use nitrile gloves. Otherwise great video, and nice showing of the problem solving with the first layer. I had some issues with his too, but after some fiddling, i got it sorted. Have fun printing with with this great printer, and use proper protection =)
Nunya Business It seems like a fair price for a tool that can make small precision cuts without splintering the model by accident but also can pierce through an Angel's protective AT Field.
Awesome job as always! Seeing your designs makes me wish you would do a character from The Hollow Knight series. It has a very cute but grimm aesthetic I think you'd enjoy. Anyways looking forward to your future ideas.
A tool that's incredibly useful for getting rid of the support marks is the AK Glass Fibre Pencil from AK Interactive. It's made for scale modelers but works insanely well (better in my opinion than sand paper) for getting rid of the support marks and blending the surface and surrounding area to looks smooth as butter.
Hey Devon, how does this compare to the Creality Ld-002R. I just purchased the LD and I am very impressed with it. Great video as always. When I reviewed the LD-002R I was also a total noob working on the Resin printer but they are pretty easy to use.
10:31 don't poke the fep film! You might puncture it! Push in a bit from the other side untill one edge of the cured resin lifts up from the fep film and then pull it out with your other hand.
Yep, I was looking for this comment. If you very gently push the FEP from the bottom, any "misprint" resin just pops off. No need to touch the FEP with any tools (though you may need to wipe the fingerprint off the bottom).
Great video and perfect timing too! I just got a anycubic photon and the past weekend had the exact same issue of parts either sticking to the fep or separating from the build plate a few hours into a print. I'll have to try the lubrication trick and see if that solves my woes.
Wow looks like you had quite a test of patience with this video.... Really love the outcome tho. Not to mention had no idea about this Instagram. Love the creatures!
A year late but resin printing has different properties to fdm that make it more suitable for detail work aside from the layers being near invisible. The biggest one IMO is time. On an FDM machine printing a miniature for table top gaming takes around twelve hours to get decent detail. This doesnt include post processing either. On the other hand resin cures layer by layer and each layer will take the same amount of time to print so you can print a lot of small detailed things far quicker with resin. FDM and Resin have strengths and advantages.
Holy hell a resin printer is a lot of hassle... nevermind that, but the constant supply of spare LCD screens you need if you print a lot because of how the UV light destroys the LCD over time... yeah, no thanks, even if the quality is amazing.
I just printed out a Mozz of my very own. Had a small fail at first but rearranged the supports and got a successful Mozz. Mine is black with red eyes and white ears, and clear blue legs.
I almost clicked away from this video, thinking that it seemed amatuerish / not containing much useful info. But I kept watching it and ended up learning so much! Thanks bro!
Hmmm. How would this work for printing AR-15 lowers? Because regular 3D printing an AR-15 lower kind of sucks. All the shrinkage and tolerances make it damn near impossible to 3D print an AR-15 lower. Would be nice to test strength difference of resin vs different types of 3D printing plastics.
sorry, I don't have all the time to read all the comments so i might be repeating here.... but at anytime you can pause the print and the print will raise up considerably so that you can see it. No need to waist a couple of hours only to find out your print didn't stick. just pause after about 10 minutes, then resume. : )
Hey Devin, great to see you're trying out DLP! Would love to see experiments using pigments to dye resins and how well they perform. There's no videos out there on this, you could be the first!
Creative Electronics I just got a Mars on Monday, and was trying to explain how it worked to my daughter easily, and could have used this illustrated version.
After seeing your intro, I thought to myself... "what a nice way to even just trigger a thought that I might be beautiful on some level". How can you not smile, and feel at least a tiny bit better? It took you 5 sec to make me SUB! (Also NOTED! 😀 )
I'm just watching this and it already looks awesome! I can't wait to watch it properly, I enjoyed the intro. Maybe you could experiment with resin and FDM printing together? Not quite sure how or if it would work bit it would be fun to see you try :)
Thanks for another fun video. I'm pretty sure that it's not a DLP printer though. It's MSLA : masked stereo lithography. It's not using a uv projecting LCD screen, but rather a uv light source underneath an LCD screen that blocks the light everywhere except where you need it to cure that layer.
You can pause the print see if it is working. I'd recommend curing the part while it is under water in a jar. It cures much faster. Lastly, support removal can be made easier by using a tub of hot water, soaking the print for maybe 10 seconds in the hot water and the supports should come off very easily and pretty cleanly as well.
I was looking for this comment! And I was silently hoping I could be the first one mention it... I've got my mars printer only yesterday so much to learn... ;-)
@@IlSharmouta It seems oxygen prevents curing so if you can limit the parts "air" exposure they will cure better. Also if you get a semi cure from ambient light (there's a fair amount of UV coming off florescent bulbs for instance) before or while you are cleaning the part, the final cure can leave the part a little tacky. Its almost as if some of the solvent (water, soap IsoP gets trapped between layers of cured resin.
Great looking character, what creativity! Well done after the print to NAIL the color and texture, it looks great. Lastly, *THANKS* for the 3-D explanation/example of how the printer works, subbed! 👏🏾
10:15 watching this while doing my first print and I couldn't hear the popping sound, paused the print and realised that it lifts the plate when you do so you can see the print. It had affixed at that point, will wait until its finished to see if it completely works.
Oh man, I feel you. You don't have a clue how many prints I tried to make with this printer, just to find out that it was not printing. The reason I have no video of resin printing on my channel is that I really started to hate the printer. Out of maybe 20 attempts, I have 3 prints, 1 that is perfect, 2 that look okay. I have spilled resin in my cabinet, I have ripped gloves without knowing it, then touching the resin with my bare hands. I have dropped a print in Alcohol, then the splash spilled alcohol all over the place. Then I gave up. My resin printer is waiting for the summer when I will maybe try it again, or it will be thrown away because I don't want another to risk his/her health with something I give away. Let alone, the fact that resin printing is very bad for the environment and the leftover resin is a chemical waste. I see in the comments that a lot of people are attracted to resin printing, and are buying this printer because of your video. Maybe that is the main reason I will not make a video about mine. Love your channel, keep it up. Brian.
Suggestion. get a pizza doe tray. very handy. you can put the entire printer and all supplies INSIDE the doe tray and no more problems with escaping ooey gooeys :-)
Great video, I read a lot of comments and i didn't see this tip, I think you shouldn't clean your vat with paper towels because it can scratch the surface, use microfiber clothes is a better option.
Thanks, it really got me started on Anycubic Photon S, leveling from start using tray, I could hear the popping sound and indeed, it went well. As for the fumes, filament printers are way more dangerous. I still have no idea why they instruct you to level using paper, I guess in order not to scratch the film, which is obviously no problem since it comes scratched and a few scratches pose no problem.
It's a LCD resin printer,not DLP, right? @0:54 you said itsDLP printer. DLP uses MEMS mirrors on a chip to bounce light.i am not sure why no company used it with a string UV laser yet. Assuming TI chips are expensive. Great content as always.
Most of the more expensive models from certain manufacturers use lasers to cure the resins. Much faster and if you don't fill the build plate its even faster still. With LCD's its the part height that determines the time taken to print, not how many things you are printing.
Hey Devin could you let me know what is the background music because I've always been searching for it but could never find it and if you made could please make an 1 hour version because I love that melody and love the content keep working hard because I can tell you are and thx
Silicon mat! Makes cleaning up resin messes soo much easier! Lol I would know I’m always making messes 🤭 diy uv cure chamber: box,tin foil, uv lamp...done
Thanks so much for sharing this. I bought a Mars about a year ago and gave it a break because I was getting frustrated about prints sticking to the film. I fired it back up this month with the same issues. I just found your video a few days ago. The oil did the trick! Thank you! I'll be posting the results and giving you a shout out on my next youtube video, GenX Vault.
I just got my Elego Mars Pro set up yesterday and had one successful print and one failure. I have to say, the look of Mozz is incredible. I love the design so much.
oH that message on the start of video ... ☻ Devin : ya, you are amazing keep going ! Me: sobbing after drinking too much red cheap vine ad laying in my bed with messy hair and chapped lips, Thank u sweetheart !
I just want to see something never done before. something super detailed how bout you model out a rock climbing wall and add a climber which resembles yourself with a badass grip like cliffhanger. ok i got it, do a vase with a rock climbing texture and you modeled as climber climbing the vase.
This thing is so cute but I'm really curious, how large is it supposed to be? Like in 1:1 scale, height in units of choice or rough size by comparison.
Great stuff Devin, I'm glad I wasn't the only one to "overflow" resin while filtering. Messy indeed, but outstanding results. Thanks for sharing your experience. Cheers, JAYTEE
these are not latex glove, don't use latex with these kind of resin, use nitrile gloves!
You're right, thanks!
Why?
@@OllieDraws Because Resin eats through latex and can get absorbed into your skin.
@@ScaryScarab21 resin isn't caustic...
CrossedCoder Yeah, resin definitely doesn’t “eat” through latex. Although the pores in latex gloves are big enough to allow resin to seep through.
I love the little guy, I cant believe he was rejected
Fr
i mean there's no space for a brain
Hey Devin, there are a couple things that I noticed. First, you have the reservoir in backwards. You want the notch to be in the front right corner to make it easier to pour resin into it while printing, and when removing. Also, it appears that you didn’t fully cure the prints, as they were way to flexible. It’s a misnomer that you can let them sit in the Sun for a few hours. It would take days. It takes a few hours to fully cure prints with a 60W UV lamp.
As for the failures, that is due to the build plate not being flat. I used 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper to level the plate against a perfectly flat marble surface. Sand it down until there is no black anodization on the plate. You can either leave it that way, or continue to smooth it with 400 grit. Then make sure you level it properly. You didn’t show the test to ensure that it was flat, where you slide the paper in and out. Pay special attention to the corners.
The good thing is that they replaced the screws on your build plate with bolts, which is what you need to do if you buy the normal Elegoo Mars. If you want truly accurate prints, you’ll also want to manually set the Z axis zero. There are other things in the configuration that will make life easier too, so I suggest looking into them. I don’t have the links right now, but I can get them when I get home, if you need them.
Great content!
Sounds like solid advice. Thanks!
@@make.anything Fantastic video, few more small things i hope save you some time!
silicone sculpting tools are a great way to stir up your vat and the edged ones will also usually remove failed prints from the vat with a guarantee that you won't scratch anything
I would advise against paper towels on the vat! They leave lint and micro scratches and greatly increase the probability of something sticking to the surface.
Pick up some PEC-PADs for photography, they are very cheap and you can use them for you camera gear too! Great for cleaning the screen and other clear surfaces.
Most of the time you won't need to drain the entire vat for a failed print, if it's a large flat surface, you can use the silicone tools or your fingers (wearing gloves obviously) to extricate it.
Ambient temperature has a dramatic impact on print success, generally, warmer is better but consistent temperature is also critical. take a look at egg incubators, they are cheap, you can position the thermocouple as needed and usually a ikea container or even a tote is enough insulation.
Might consider inverting your model if you are going to sand the surface regardless those "drip details would come out perfect
A #11 scalpel is a great tool for cleaning off supports, very cheap too.
Typically two separate washes of alcohol are used, if that's what your manufacturer suggests though, i would defer to that.
A tooth brush really helps clean out those details after ten minutes of soaking in alcohol.
Finally, i second the build plate abrasion.
(note: i use a Moai 130 and Form 2 so there may be some machine specific differences)
Love your content and look forward to your future uploads!
I would add that it is easier to remove the supports before fully curing. This is information I only have second hand knowledge of as I have not yet printed anything on my Mars.
giliant you can use Kimwipes and alcohol on the film, as they are lint free and are non-abrasive when wet. Kimwipes are heavily used in the electronics industry, and very minor scratches on the film don’t affect print quality. 😎
It might be very flexible because he used "ABS-like" resin.
"It looks like our little buddy is enjoying it"
The creature: *°----°*
No way hes more like
○)-----(○
I don't know, that message at the beginning cheered me more up than it probably should.
"There's something in you that the world needs."
I honestly do want one now, Mozz not the Elegoo
Tristanzpixelated AAAAHHHHH A KNOCK OFF
same
I’m a bit late but same
oof i want one too its soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo cute
I would recommend removing supports before the final cure. They're much easier to remove and have much less of a chance of shattering/pitting parts of print. I usually just pop them off by hand after washing, and letting them dry.
That makes sense. I wasn't sure if I should handle the prints much before curing
Caution is always a good idea when working with resin (and new things in general) :)
@@make.anything Resin OEM here. We would recommend keeping the supports on for 2 reasons:
- some prints cannot stand on its own so you need support to keep it upright for curing
- prints shrinkage during post-curing. For long / thing parts, keeping support on would prevent/reduce wrapping during the post-curing stage.
@@sirayatech2 I appreciate how active you are. Im doing research for a purchase and you are everywhere.
"Don't breathe in these toxic fumes!"
Formlabs: "Our rigid resin has a light pine scent."
Teacher: "only wave the scent to you, don't put your nose over it"
kids in chemistry class:
*Loudest Sniffing noise ever to exist*
@@nomasan cocaine!
@@nomasan I messed my smell up for years lol "chemical X" was ammonia - 0/5 don't recommend.
I like that you always have such a high attention to detailing and finishing. I learn a lot from these videos. That also sets you apart from many other RUclips creators.
I appreciate you stressing that this isn't a toy and safety is important for res printers. Another great video!
Excited to see you working with the Mars!!
I've been sick for a week sitting at my desk looking like hell, but... still a nice message at the beginning and it's sweet to start that way. thank you
I can't believe that Mozz was rejected, HE'S SO CUTEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!
MrAcDc2000 Sorry but rejected from what?
I had the same trouble. You don't need to drain the tank to remove a failed print from the FEP sheet. Take the tank out and hold it level so you don't spill anything. Using light pressure, run your finger underneath the failed print from one end to the other. The failed print will peel away and you can fish it out with the plastic scraper.
3:20 ... "power shaking" is not recommended as it introduces tiny bubbles to the resin. lighter rotation for a longer period may work better. FYI.
If you need 99% isopropyl alcohol try going to a pharmacy and asking the pharmacist, alot of the time they carry it but it isn't out on the shelves
Hey Devin. I enjoy your videos and i don't like to be this guy, but please make sure you use (and point out to use) a proper respirator that takes care of organic vapors when dealing with the resin. I do own this fantastic printer, and the supplied face mask does not protect you from anything but splashes.
3M has a 'A2' filter that removes all odor and (as far as i could find) takes care of the other stuff as well.
And of course as others have pointed out, be safe, use nitrile gloves.
Otherwise great video, and nice showing of the problem solving with the first layer. I had some issues with his too, but after some fiddling, i got it sorted.
Have fun printing with with this great printer, and use proper protection =)
13:18 I love how he explains this like we have a ultrasonic knife
Wondercutter S on Amazon is only $400.
Miley onDisney “Only”?
Nunya Business agreeed
Nunya Business It seems like a fair price for a tool that can make small precision cuts without splintering the model by accident but also can pierce through an Angel's protective AT Field.
This video really resin-ated with me
robcaboose510 underrated comment
👏👏
Ba-Dumm Chang...
I'm sure you probably found out by now but its advised to remove supports prior to curing.
Awesome job as always!
Seeing your designs makes me wish you would do a character from The Hollow Knight series. It has a very cute but grimm aesthetic I think you'd enjoy. Anyways looking forward to your future ideas.
A tool that's incredibly useful for getting rid of the support marks is the AK Glass Fibre Pencil from AK Interactive. It's made for scale modelers but works insanely well (better in my opinion than sand paper) for getting rid of the support marks and blending the surface and surrounding area to looks smooth as butter.
Sounds cool!
Hey Devon, how does this compare to the Creality Ld-002R. I just purchased the LD and I am very impressed with it. Great video as always. When I reviewed the LD-002R I was also a total noob working on the Resin printer but they are pretty easy to use.
FIVE HOURS w NO YIELD?!! Man, that thing woulda been WELL on its way into my neighbor’s yard!
Now feeling "Especially beautiful"
That creature looks like something from Undertale - but designed better than most creatures in Undertale
Brave of you to talk about undertale
Too good Devon dang love that character design! Do translucent Resin and LEDS next :)
*MOZZ IS A PRECIOUS LOOKING LITTLE GHOSTLY BEAN AND I WANT ONE.* 😭
10:31 don't poke the fep film! You might puncture it! Push in a bit from the other side untill one edge of the cured resin lifts up from the fep film and then pull it out with your other hand.
Yep, I was looking for this comment. If you very gently push the FEP from the bottom, any "misprint" resin just pops off. No need to touch the FEP with any tools (though you may need to wipe the fingerprint off the bottom).
Love how you used that photoshop drawing infographic to explain how this machine works! Very unique!
Yeah, that was so awesome! :D
Great video and perfect timing too! I just got a anycubic photon and the past weekend had the exact same issue of parts either sticking to the fep or separating from the build plate a few hours into a print. I'll have to try the lubrication trick and see if that solves my woes.
Wow looks like you had quite a test of patience with this video.... Really love the outcome tho. Not to mention had no idea about this Instagram. Love the creatures!
You just made me buy a 3d printer, your channel is awesome!
Was it worth it
Botond Bóta what one did you get
The benefits simply just dont justify the extra mess
I love that there's pretty much no visible layers, but the whole process seems such a hassle 😩😩
true, but the higher quality print is SO worth it
I know its 7 months late, but I recently got the Elegoo Mars, and its not a hassle at all. It may seem bad but its super easy
A year late but resin printing has different properties to fdm that make it more suitable for detail work aside from the layers being near invisible. The biggest one IMO is time. On an FDM machine printing a miniature for table top gaming takes around twelve hours to get decent detail. This doesnt include post processing either. On the other hand resin cures layer by layer and each layer will take the same amount of time to print so you can print a lot of small detailed things far quicker with resin. FDM and Resin have strengths and advantages.
Sees moss . . .
Okay I'm legally obligated to make fanart of them right now.
*fervently starts drawing *
Holy hell a resin printer is a lot of hassle... nevermind that, but the constant supply of spare LCD screens you need if you print a lot because of how the UV light destroys the LCD over time... yeah, no thanks, even if the quality is amazing.
“Slightly warped areas”, well it did say it was abs like resin
I just printed out a Mozz of my very own. Had a small fail at first but rearranged the supports and got a successful Mozz.
Mine is black with red eyes and white ears, and clear blue legs.
I almost clicked away from this video, thinking that it seemed amatuerish / not containing much useful info. But I kept watching it and ended up learning so much! Thanks bro!
Hmmm. How would this work for printing AR-15 lowers? Because regular 3D printing an AR-15 lower kind of sucks. All the shrinkage and tolerances make it damn near impossible to 3D print an AR-15 lower. Would be nice to test strength difference of resin vs different types of 3D printing plastics.
sorry, I don't have all the time to read all the comments so i might be repeating here.... but at anytime you can pause the print and the print will raise up considerably so that you can see it. No need to waist a couple of hours only to find out your print didn't stick. just pause after about 10 minutes, then resume. : )
20:00 forbidden cookie, yummm.
I Love the illustrative live drawing editing. a wonderful touch
That creature reminds me of Punpun if it had a beak. Anyone know what I’m talking about?
The lcd does not project uv light. It only masks it out from a uv source underneath. FYI
You should remove supports before curing, they come off way easier and leave less blemishes on the model.
I love that the "whoopsies" are still in here and the trouble shooting and makeshift equipment
I like the smooth finish, but I don't feel comfortable with sanding resin.
Hey Devin, great to see you're trying out DLP! Would love to see experiments using pigments to dye resins and how well they perform. There's no videos out there on this, you could be the first!
Not a dlp printer.
Thank you for the good explaining of how a Resin printer works! :-) :-) :-)
Creative Electronics I just got a Mars on Monday, and was trying to explain how it worked to my daughter easily, and could have used this illustrated version.
After seeing your intro, I thought to myself... "what a nice way to even just trigger a thought that I might be beautiful on some level". How can you not smile, and feel at least a tiny bit better? It took you 5 sec to make me SUB! (Also NOTED! 😀 )
I'm just watching this and it already looks awesome! I can't wait to watch it properly, I enjoyed the intro. Maybe you could experiment with resin and FDM printing together? Not quite sure how or if it would work bit it would be fun to see you try :)
devon: you look beautiful today me: in bed sick from school
There are cheaper alternatives to IPA that in most cases do a better job at cleaning the resin.
Thanks for another fun video. I'm pretty sure that it's not a DLP printer though. It's MSLA : masked stereo lithography. It's not using a uv projecting LCD screen, but rather a uv light source underneath an LCD screen that blocks the light everywhere except where you need it to cure that layer.
Yup you're right! I put a correction in the description, but all I can do is try to be more accurate in the future. Cheers!
You can pause the print see if it is working.
I'd recommend curing the part while it is under water in a jar. It cures much faster.
Lastly, support removal can be made easier by using a tub of hot water, soaking the print for maybe 10 seconds in the hot water and the supports should come off very easily and pretty cleanly as well.
I was looking for this comment! And I was silently hoping I could be the first one mention it... I've got my mars printer only yesterday so much to learn... ;-)
I've never heard of curing underwater. This sounds very promising thanks so much
@@IlSharmouta It seems oxygen prevents curing so if you can limit the parts "air" exposure they will cure better. Also if you get a semi cure from ambient light (there's a fair amount of UV coming off florescent bulbs for instance) before or while you are cleaning the part, the final cure can leave the part a little tacky. Its almost as if some of the solvent (water, soap IsoP gets trapped between layers of cured resin.
Would love a tutorial on how you made the creature in Fusion 360! Beautiful design and final print.
I'm so glad I got one of these. The print size is pretty small, but it makes such nice prints for like 200$.
"Because, well, I have an ultrasonic, knife."
Thanks for the video now I know to never get one of these headache machines
That's a lot of post processing still needed... :/
Great looking character, what creativity! Well done after the print to NAIL the color and texture, it looks great. Lastly, *THANKS* for the 3-D explanation/example of how the printer works, subbed! 👏🏾
I'd turn the model upsidedown and have the supports on the head, nice smooth surface to sand after
10:15 watching this while doing my first print and I couldn't hear the popping sound, paused the print and realised that it lifts the plate when you do so you can see the print. It had affixed at that point, will wait until its finished to see if it completely works.
Oh man, I feel you.
You don't have a clue how many prints I tried to make with this printer, just to find out that it was not printing.
The reason I have no video of resin printing on my channel is that I really started to hate the printer. Out of maybe 20 attempts, I have 3 prints, 1 that is perfect, 2 that look okay.
I have spilled resin in my cabinet, I have ripped gloves without knowing it, then touching the resin with my bare hands. I have dropped a print in Alcohol, then the splash spilled alcohol all over the place. Then I gave up.
My resin printer is waiting for the summer when I will maybe try it again, or it will be thrown away because I don't want another to risk his/her health with something I give away.
Let alone, the fact that resin printing is very bad for the environment and the leftover resin is a chemical waste.
I see in the comments that a lot of people are attracted to resin printing, and are buying this printer because of your video. Maybe that is the main reason I will not make a video about mine.
Love your channel, keep it up.
Brian.
I've had my eye on this printer for a while now, but with everything going on I can't spare the cash.
Suggestion. get a pizza doe tray. very handy. you can put the entire printer and all supplies INSIDE the doe tray and no more problems with escaping ooey gooeys :-)
Great video, I read a lot of comments and i didn't see this tip, I think you shouldn't clean your vat with paper towels because it can scratch the surface, use microfiber clothes is a better option.
Layer adhesion problems could be helped with holding down the plate firmly onto the paper before tightening
Had a long tedious day. That intro just made me feel so fuzzy and special. Thank you my dude. Now I watch the video
I would use the masks now becuse of covid 19
We don't make mistakes, we just make happy little accidents
Spilling resin isn't a happy accident :(
im gonna try the lubricant and see if it works
wuddup devin!! im super new to resin printing, and im wanting to get one, and was wondering the pros and cons of resin stuff.
I think this video shows both 😬
Thanks, it really got me started on Anycubic Photon S, leveling from start using tray, I could hear the popping sound and indeed, it went well. As for the fumes, filament printers are way more dangerous. I still have no idea why they instruct you to level using paper, I guess in order not to scratch the film, which is obviously no problem since it comes scratched and a few scratches pose no problem.
This man is the 3D printing version of Bob Ross
Thank you for the oops! real life.
What if I don't _feel_ especially beautiful today?
It's a LCD resin printer,not DLP, right? @0:54 you said itsDLP printer. DLP uses MEMS mirrors on a chip to bounce light.i am not sure why no company used it with a string UV laser yet. Assuming TI chips are expensive. Great content as always.
I thought that's SLA... Too many acronyms!
Most of the more expensive models from certain manufacturers use lasers to cure the resins. Much faster and if you don't fill the build plate its even faster still. With LCD's its the part height that determines the time taken to print, not how many things you are printing.
Good to see you back Devin. Happy New Year and I love the fact that you show your progress with a new printer, warts an all!
I was hoping you would go over resin printing, I've seen ads for them and they seemed realy good if used properly
I require a cute platformer game featuring mozz
If you made these little guys I would buy one lol
Omg🙊 he's so cute!❤ and the resins have him a really cool texture and colour, love that you left the top body unpainted👌
Devin did you know that there is the castle named Devin in Slovakia? :P you should print one Devin for Devin
very tricky PS animation, thumbs up ;-)
Hey Devin could you let me know what is the background music because I've always been searching for it but could never find it and if you made could please make an 1 hour version because I love that melody and love the content keep working hard because I can tell you are and thx
Silicon mat! Makes cleaning up resin messes soo much easier! Lol I would know I’m always making messes 🤭 diy uv cure chamber: box,tin foil, uv lamp...done
I've got a little 410 nm flashlight that I use to zap little spills. In seconds they harden and you can just peel them off the silicone.
Thanks so much for sharing this. I bought a Mars about a year ago and gave it a break because I was getting frustrated about prints sticking to the film. I fired it back up this month with the same issues. I just found your video a few days ago. The oil did the trick! Thank you! I'll be posting the results and giving you a shout out on my next youtube video, GenX Vault.
So glad I could help!
@@make.anything Me too!
My brother got one of these and it came broken in the mail.
Chuckles_BOT_ lol
I just got my Elego Mars Pro set up yesterday and had one successful print and one failure. I have to say, the look of Mozz is incredible. I love the design so much.
I got two 3D printer ads on this video
As always...
Nice moustache
Devin doodles every day which means he is DRAWING ORIGINAL IDEAS DAILY AND WOW THATS TOO CREATIVE
oH that message on the start of video ... ☻
Devin : ya, you are amazing keep going !
Me: sobbing after drinking too much red cheap vine ad laying in my bed with messy hair and chapped lips, Thank u sweetheart !
I just want to see something never done before. something super detailed how bout you model out a rock climbing wall and add a climber which resembles yourself with a badass grip like cliffhanger. ok i got it, do a vase with a rock climbing texture and you modeled as climber climbing the vase.
Oh man this is the best video I have seen for a while :) and that model is amazing :) soo cool great job :)
Thanks!
This thing is so cute but I'm really curious, how large is it supposed to be? Like in 1:1 scale, height in units of choice or rough size by comparison.
Omg i love it so much great job
Great stuff Devin, I'm glad I wasn't the only one to "overflow" resin while filtering. Messy indeed, but outstanding results. Thanks for sharing your experience. Cheers, JAYTEE