You can figure out how much resin you need by filling a measured cup with water, then put the 3D print in the water and the difference in displacement is about how much you'll need. Add a little extra for good measure cause sometimes the resin shrinks.
PongoXBongo not a goood way to do it At first the density of Resin is often way different to water! Also you have to wait till the mind is fully dried, cause water reacts with Resin! Another thing is you method doesn't work on cutted mold and does not work on Multiform molds, cause the water would be anywhere but inside the mold!
One really good way to approximate the volume required is, pour dry rice into the cavity and then measure the volume of rice used. This is a rough approximation buy very close.
Norm, I like your interviewing skills. You ask all the questions that the viewers might think to ask. I'm sure you already know the answers, but it does take skill to pull out that information for the benefit of the audience. Keep up the great work.
I've been doing some molding myself and have discovered that $25 of Oomoo doesn't go very far. So, to reduce the amount I need to use on the non-rectangular models I'm making molds from, I've created a 3D printed outer wall to replace the foam core slabs on the side. My trick to creating the wall without having to modeling anything is (using Simplify3D terminology): - Load the model that you want to create a mold wall for - Increase the model z-height (turn off uniform scaling, so you're only changing the height) by ~6mm - Turn Top Solid Layers, Bottom Solid Layers, and Outline/Perimeter Shells all you zero - Turn Infill Percentage to 0 - Turn on Skirt/Brim - Set the Skirt Layers to a large number that is guaranteed to exceed the height of the extended model - Set the Skirt Offset from Part to be something like 10mm (or however much silicon you want around the part in your mold) - Set the Skirt Outlines to 2 Now when you print, you'll get no original model, but a double perimeter skirt the height of the model + 6mm. Simplify3D automatically stops the skirt once the extended model height is reached. I don't know if every slicer will do that, so do check the height of the print that gets created. If your printer is well calibrated, the double perimeter wall should be watertight. I also increased the "Allow speed reductions down to" percentage to 40%, as I found this value is used by Simplify3D for the skirt speed and wanted the prints to complete faster. Other slicers may use a different parameter to control the skirt speed. The other way to fudge it would be to turn up the print speed to something much higher than normal, knowing that it'll get scaled down by some factor. I suppose a vertical ooze shield would work just as well as a skirt (plus in S3D it has a direct speed multiplier control), but I used the skirt. After my prints complete, I use hot glue to attach them to the base foamcore board, as per this tutorial. I hope someone finds this useful.
Just wrap a strip of abs card around on itself and tape the ends then glue down. You can do this quicker than you can do the cad and you'll save money on printing.
I've just gotten done making some thick and wide rubber gaskets out of Silicone caulk :). MUCH cheaper stuff. To get it to cure throughout, add about 8-10 drops of glycerine, which is sold at cvs as skin moisturizer, per ounce of caulk. I don't yet know how well it will work for mold-making, but I intend to find out.
God damned I'm tired of people complaining about the premium member stuff in the comments. I'm not a member and I'm perfectly fine with them advertising it. These guys do a lot of hard work to bring us the content they do. I do believe tested is their full time job or close to it. Either way they are more than free to try to make a living off this. Premium membership or not I'm perfectly happy with the 100% free content that we get on RUclips and hardly bothered at all by the small bit of advertising they do. If I end up not liking their content or the advertising becomes cloying I'll vote by subscribing. Until then I for one wish to say how much I still appreciate the content you guys are producing. Keep up the good work. I'm sure I'll get flamed for posting this, but that's the net for you.
I don't understand why so many people in the comments are hating on Norm? Like, he's there to ask questions, that's literally his job in this video! He represents the viewer who wants to learn how to cast stuff and he's doing his best to ask everything that might be obvious to the expert but not to the viewer!
Great video guys . Don't know why peeps are tripping about Norm . The other guy doesn't seem bothered if anything he's just so used to knowing the process that it's become second nature to him . So when he's asked questions it's almost refreshing Not only that but Norm asking all these questions gives us new guys an insight on what it's like to be there learning from them in person . The questions help make the learning curve for some of us a lot easier as opposed to just having to watch the process without being allowed to ask any questions on the process Ultimately everyone will have differences on what they like but I'm positive before the camera was rolling Norm made sure to let the guy know that he was going to ask the guy many beginner questions in order to set the tone and prevent the guy from being confused and annoyed from all the questions The guy seems helpful and willing to share his knowledge so if he doesn't have a problem with it then those do that do have a problem are just wasting your energy . Nevertheless let's keep it movin ☝️🐲
Why wouldn't it be there? No matter what you call Pluto, whether a planet, a dwarf planet, an asteroid or whatever, it doesn.t change anything about it. It just fits better a a dwarf planet category.
Deathbrewer well thats your criteria. i take issue with the scientific community's definition of planet. ***** well its the only dwarf planet on the diagram out of the hundreds of others. the diagram is clearly depicting planets and the sun alone. i think its funny you get upset from me being happy something is on a map.
lil tip tho just in case u dont want to waste ur resin just take a container fill it with water mark the water volume, then put ur model inside the water and mark again now u want to calculate the volume before and after the model dip in via marker that u made earlier now u know how much resin u need to fill those volume (model volume) keep in mind tho, some resin shink when cure.. so not a bad idea to put more resin
Thank you so much for doing these videos, small words of wisdom and tips from people who have done this for years really help us at the beginning of the journey. I always take notes! A thousand thanks!
Frank was way more personable & likeable than when he was on Face Off. I almost didn't watch the video when I saw his face on it. Really good tips here.
***** But the cornstarch would embed into the cast and disrupt the surface. That's what mold release is for. They skipped that step, but I would imagine they sprayed it with some kind of release agent.
Illuminati And Triangle Worshipers Richard Bartle Seems like a sensible question to me?.. To be honest though, I don't know enough about printing and moulds. My guess would be that it's possible, although it would have to be a two part mould - I think you CAN print bendy rubber, but not as bendy as that silicone.
Illuminati And Triangle Worshipers You don't necessarily have to print the whole outline of a box, just print the outer shell of the object with a little extra thickness around it.
the Smooth On RUclips channel is pretty cool too... but it's AWESOME to see things not going perfect too... how it works in real life! AWESOME VIDEO!!! ty for it!
please make a video using hydrocast. Or something that can make a enlarged replica. BTW I appreciate the host asking a lot of questions, I think it helps newbies feel more confident. especially since these hobbies aint cheap!
Really mixing this poses no threat in fumes and it is the same stuff you dip you babies hands in to get a mold.... so really when it gets on your hands... let it set a little and it rolls right off LoL
Excellent video here in 2019! Not the first time I’ve watched it. I retrospectively love the immediacy. Please make more videos with mistakes! It’s ever so lacking in this day and age. When everything is scripted to the umpteenth factor unscripted is refreshing.
gawd, when I was doing resin casting I had that thing happen of the resin curing whilst I was pouring it because there was so much in the cup, it was the most frustrating thing ever. I learned from it at least
Stefan Mack It's physically impossible to cut a straight- to-zigzag line like he described. Notice they didn't give it a clear camera angle when he said "you can KIND OF see how its straight"??? Yeah... that's because it's not.
There's no clear camera angle, nor for Norm, because working hands and a cutting tool are in the way. Silicone CAN be stretched apart to be cut different ways. This really isn't complicated.
VariablePenguin That gives you a handy maximum, but you'd still end up with excess because that's both the negative and the positive together. Filling with water would be a pain because it would get the silicon wet, and you'd have to wait for it to dry properly... I bet you could get something dry to fill it (rice? Maybe too dusty) and use the same principle though
ANameThatIsn'tMyOwn I was thinking more that you'd make the mold. Then you know the amount you used to make that. Figure out the volume of the entire box and subtract the amount you used to make the mold and that's your amount to fill the cavity.
When you know how much resin you use to fill a mold, label the mold with that amount (in this case 4 oz). You will save a lot of resin over a small number of casts! Especially if you don't do a lot of casting for a period of time, it will save you doing the trial an error multiple times...
Norm asked great questions for someone like me who's looking into starting out as a fresh newbie to sculpting and casting. Some I didn't even think of asking! Like cleaning the molds with rubbing alcohol. Frank was fantastic as a tutor for the questions. Loved it!
You can use uncooked rice to measure the volume of the mold to get a rough estimate for your resin. Very cool video, I have molded a few things and learned a couple of cool tips.
Also, with materials that have long working times you can use a vacuum chamber to extract the gasses and get a smoother mold. You should de-gas before and after pouring the silicone to remove as many bubbles as possible.
Depends on the application, but can be very useful. The materials (silicone and resin) they were using had quick working times for the sake of the video. Vacuum degassing usually requires a much longer working time than 2-1/2 minutes.
Don't you mean the "Container" for the mold material. I agree - fast to assemble and reusable. Should be able to calculate the amount of mold material needed quite quickly too.
I don't see why people have such an issue with them mentioning this was brought to us by premium members. If I give money to something, I like to see tangable results of that donation, and having specific videos that highlight the fact that they could not be made without that money makes the whole thing much more transparent and worthwhile.
tbh i dont care if it was brought to us by crazy bob down the street ... the fact that it is here and they spend a few moments of a video to say so and so paid for this ... is not a big deal at all ... it beats the heck out of 5 ads through the video
Very cool episode, if you want soft metal Econosil silicone jewellry mold rubber can take solder, lead free solder melted. Talc is good release, smooth on is great but costly for learning.
I have so much respect for tested and Adam and all you professional guys. My only concern was the tested sign. If you get rubber underneath the cast is so hard to make flush. Not a problem here if course but if the piece needs to be level on all areas once cast, stick down on wood with carpet or double sided tape. Even if your master is stuck to the base, you can keep it and the mould will always puddle cast level
While to me, the fact he had to exercise patience with the questions asked (and obviously so) means that he believes he was only there to create resin copies of 3d printed objects and not to create an educational video on such. Therefore, to compensate for this, Norm had to ask more questions than he should have, which meant he had to show effort, which people perceive as a weak trait (for some reason).
Max Fark .......no. Frank would have done fine by himself. And I'm not specifically talking about the silly questions...but just the awkward, not funny personality of Norm.
Note this works well for models without gaps or small holes. Many models that people want are not designed for mass production and will need to be tweaked
I know in the video they used pigment to colour the resin but I'm wondering if you can use other medium like oil paints, ink or acrylic to colour the resin ?
The King of Random video where Nate turns his foot into a Jolly Rancher may be of interest to you. They've also done prosthetic videos around Halloween time.
A longer set time for the raisin if you use polyester achieves a stronger resing. If you drop a fast cured resin it can smash like glass, and a slow one is more elastic and strong.
I can't seem to figure out how Frank has the red pigment already on his left hand index finger (3:28) when making the molds. He only gets it on his finger somewhere around 21:45 when the mold is already made, resin copy inception? :-) Really nice to see how you guys make these resin copys.
They likely went back and remade the molds after filming the part casting. If you look at the end, the mixed resin looks like it is not fully mixed at the beginning with a lot of pink showing at the top of the pour. They likely did it this way to either save filming time, or to fit the schedule of the film crew.
Part of being a host. In the same way during podcasts Will has to make sure they provide context for the layman. Without some of the "dumb" questions, we're sort of just watching ppl pour jello into a mold and not learning anything/technique.
I kind of disagree. None of these products are hard to find, and you might want to purchase them from different places depending on where you live. For example, I might want to order it from a company a couple cities over rather than from another country. Links make more sense when you're talking about specific or hard to find things.
Thank you so much for this video! It was very helpful! Can I use acrylic paints to paint over the white smooth-cast 300? If not, what other types of casting material could I use that would allow me to paint with acrylics?
Most resins should take to most paints nicely. There may be some rare ones out there that don't like some types of paint, but the product info should say so either way. Always read the label before purchasing, and make a small test before any big project. :) Silicone will resist paint, but resins don't generally have that property at all.
Yes. Some clay shapes, especially with overhangs like a chin, nose, ears, (up to the whole model) may be destroyed in the transfer, so it's usually used for temporary designs to be transferred, then the clay is recycled. You'd want to wash the mold carefully after making it, to remove clay residue.
Painting Resin Model Kits with Frank Ippolito! ruclips.net/video/Xa3dqTViETM/видео.html
You can figure out how much resin you need by filling a measured cup with water, then put the 3D print in the water and the difference in displacement is about how much you'll need. Add a little extra for good measure cause sometimes the resin shrinks.
Or you could fill the mold with water, then pour that water into a measuring cup.
I was thinking the same thing
PongoXBongo not a goood way to do it
At first the density of Resin is often way different to water! Also you have to wait till the mind is fully dried, cause water reacts with Resin! Another thing is you method doesn't work on cutted mold and does not work on Multiform molds, cause the water would be anywhere but inside the mold!
One really good way to approximate the volume required is, pour dry rice into the cavity and then measure the volume of rice used. This is a rough approximation buy very close.
Tes_ Or make the mold and fill it with water and that is how much liquid will fill the mold.
I love these videos with Frank. I'm really glad to see him as a more regular guest.
He had to be interesting to make it through a whole season of a tv show.
The zigzag self-aligning technique is brilliant.
Norm, I like your interviewing skills. You ask all the questions that the viewers might think to ask. I'm sure you already know the answers, but it does take skill to pull out that information for the benefit of the audience. Keep up the great work.
I've been doing some molding myself and have discovered that $25 of Oomoo doesn't go very far.
So, to reduce the amount I need to use on the non-rectangular models I'm making molds from, I've created a 3D printed outer wall to replace the foam core slabs on the side.
My trick to creating the wall without having to modeling anything is (using Simplify3D terminology):
- Load the model that you want to create a mold wall for
- Increase the model z-height (turn off uniform scaling, so you're only changing the height) by ~6mm
- Turn Top Solid Layers, Bottom Solid Layers, and Outline/Perimeter Shells all you zero
- Turn Infill Percentage to 0
- Turn on Skirt/Brim
- Set the Skirt Layers to a large number that is guaranteed to exceed the height of the extended model
- Set the Skirt Offset from Part to be something like 10mm (or however much silicon you want around the part in your mold)
- Set the Skirt Outlines to 2
Now when you print, you'll get no original model, but a double perimeter skirt the height of the model + 6mm. Simplify3D automatically stops the skirt once the extended model height is reached. I don't know if every slicer will do that, so do check the height of the print that gets created. If your printer is well calibrated, the double perimeter wall should be watertight.
I also increased the "Allow speed reductions down to" percentage to 40%, as I found this value is used by Simplify3D for the skirt speed and wanted the prints to complete faster. Other slicers may use a different parameter to control the skirt speed. The other way to fudge it would be to turn up the print speed to something much higher than normal, knowing that it'll get scaled down by some factor.
I suppose a vertical ooze shield would work just as well as a skirt (plus in S3D it has a direct speed multiplier control), but I used the skirt.
After my prints complete, I use hot glue to attach them to the base foamcore board, as per this tutorial.
I hope someone finds this useful.
Just wrap a strip of abs card around on itself and tape the ends then glue down. You can do this quicker than you can do the cad and you'll save money on printing.
I've just gotten done making some thick and wide rubber gaskets out of Silicone caulk :). MUCH cheaper stuff. To get it to cure throughout, add about 8-10 drops of glycerine, which is sold at cvs as skin moisturizer, per ounce of caulk. I don't yet know how well it will work for mold-making, but I intend to find out.
God damned I'm tired of people complaining about the premium member stuff in the comments. I'm not a member and I'm perfectly fine with them advertising it. These guys do a lot of hard work to bring us the content they do. I do believe tested is their full time job or close to it. Either way they are more than free to try to make a living off this. Premium membership or not I'm perfectly happy with the 100% free content that we get on RUclips and hardly bothered at all by the small bit of advertising they do. If I end up not liking their content or the advertising becomes cloying I'll vote by subscribing. Until then I for one wish to say how much I still appreciate the content you guys are producing. Keep up the good work. I'm sure I'll get flamed for posting this, but that's the net for you.
I meant to say unsubscribing, can't edit comments from iOS YT app.
Locut0s switch to Android
‘That’s the net for you’ god that profile picture is fitting
I use Lego for walling up, it works well for small parts and is re usable.
"For my head let's try and cast it in a flesh-tone."
"Ok."
Casts it in red.
+tyspyranger at least it wasn't yellow...
+Balancatraca I was hoping yellow
we're all hoping it my friend.....we're all hoping it...
Probably something Frank would have needed to know ahead of time instead of off-the-cuff lol
Pink
I MADE MY FIRST MOLD TODAY!!! I have so much to learn but i cant wait to make more
I don't understand why so many people in the comments are hating on Norm? Like, he's there to ask questions, that's literally his job in this video! He represents the viewer who wants to learn how to cast stuff and he's doing his best to ask everything that might be obvious to the expert but not to the viewer!
Time wrap!!!! Frank got his finger dyed in casting, but was already dyed in molding!!! Wouuuuuu!
Thank you! This is a proper way to advertise the premium stuff - telling us where to find more info while providing actual helpful content.
Norm is awesome. Haters gonna hate. Don't listen to them dude, thanks for helping to make this awesome content!
Great video guys . Don't know why peeps are tripping about Norm . The other guy doesn't seem bothered if anything he's just so used to knowing the process that it's become second nature to him . So when he's asked questions it's almost refreshing
Not only that but Norm asking all these questions gives us new guys an insight on what it's like to be there learning from them in person . The questions help make the learning curve for some of us a lot easier as opposed to just having to watch the process without being allowed to ask any questions on the process
Ultimately everyone will have differences on what they like but I'm positive before the camera was rolling Norm made sure to let the guy know that he was going to ask the guy many beginner questions in order to set the tone and prevent the guy from being confused and annoyed from all the questions
The guy seems helpful and willing to share his knowledge so if he doesn't have a problem with it then those do that do have a problem are just wasting your energy .
Nevertheless let's keep it movin ☝️🐲
This absolute madlad poured the silicone directly out of the cup he mixed it in. I respect your audacity Frank.
0:10 glad to see adam's diagram of the solar system includes pluto!
But no Eris :-( lol
It doesn't meet all the criteria of the definition of a planet.
Deathbrewer yep just like Pluto
Why wouldn't it be there? No matter what you call Pluto, whether a planet, a dwarf planet, an asteroid or whatever, it doesn.t change anything about it. It just fits better a a dwarf planet category.
Deathbrewer
well thats your criteria. i take issue with the scientific community's definition of planet.
***** well its the only dwarf planet on the diagram out of the hundreds of others. the diagram is clearly depicting planets and the sun alone. i think its funny you get upset from me being happy something is on a map.
25:47 I love the random boom mic creeping in. I know it happens, I just found it amusing the way it's creeping in real slow.
This is one of the best Tested videos IMHO.
lil tip tho
just in case u dont want to waste ur resin
just take a container fill it with water
mark the water volume, then put ur model inside the water and mark again
now u want to calculate the volume before and after the model dip in via marker that u made earlier
now u know how much resin u need to fill those volume (model volume)
keep in mind tho, some resin shink when cure.. so not a bad idea to put more resin
oooo. Don't tell Frank what to do. If you remember him from Face Off, He's know's everything. Just ask him.
Thank you so much for doing these videos, small words of wisdom and tips from people who have done this for years really help us at the beginning of the journey. I always take notes! A thousand thanks!
best premium member episode so far
Frank was way more personable & likeable than when he was on Face Off. I almost didn't watch the video when I saw his face on it. Really good tips here.
Water displacement to calculate volume first, figure out how much resin you'll need before hand!
I've seen people pour water into the mold to figure out how much you need, but I like this better, since it keeps the mold dry.
*****
But the cornstarch would embed into the cast and disrupt the surface. That's what mold release is for. They skipped that step, but I would imagine they sprayed it with some kind of release agent.
***** Or you could use birdshot to measure volume instead of rice and get a much more accurate measurement.
@@TimeConsumingInc sounds good or even maybe better rubber air soft bb's...
Frank's voice is so calming. Like Dan Berry in the UK.
How easy is it, given a pattern for a 3D object, to 3D-print a mould for that object rather than print the object itself?
Illuminati And Triangle Worshipers Richard Bartle Seems like a sensible question to me?.. To be honest though, I don't know enough about printing and moulds. My guess would be that it's possible, although it would have to be a two part mould - I think you CAN print bendy rubber, but not as bendy as that silicone.
Illuminati And Triangle Worshipers
You don't necessarily have to print the whole outline of a box, just print the outer shell of the object with a little extra thickness around it.
Kjt
Gotta love Smooth-On
The dude in glasses asks thorough questions. I am getting maximum value out of the interviewer. Good job man. :)
the Smooth On RUclips channel is pretty cool too...
but it's AWESOME to see things not going perfect too... how it works in real life!
AWESOME VIDEO!!! ty for it!
please make a video using hydrocast. Or something that can make a enlarged replica. BTW I appreciate the host asking a lot of questions, I think it helps newbies feel more confident. especially since these hobbies aint cheap!
The more mass within the cup = quicker thermal reaction. Use a bowl to lessen mass and possibly lengthen pot life.
"Wear gloves, wear eye protection," says Frank, not doing either. :)
no protection required in Adam's cave
Lachlan Sumner 😉
probably not real ooo professionals damage themselves also from poor safety practices
Steve McQueen t-shirt, no further protection needed
Really mixing this poses no threat in fumes and it is the same stuff you dip you babies hands in to get a mold.... so really when it gets on your hands... let it set a little and it rolls right off LoL
frank aint wanna be there without Adam
Cool video....this is why I watch Tested!
Nice video I am going to start casting some replacement parts for antique radios !
This is extremely helpful and inspiring! I can't wait to start doing stuff :) Thank you guys for sharing, you're awesome!
Excellent video here in 2019! Not the first time I’ve watched it. I retrospectively love the immediacy. Please make more videos with mistakes! It’s ever so lacking in this day and age. When everything is scripted to the umpteenth factor unscripted is refreshing.
That is one epic comb over Norm is rocking.
always love Franks tutorials
gawd, when I was doing resin casting I had that thing happen of the resin curing whilst I was pouring it because there was so much in the cup, it was the most frustrating thing ever. I learned from it at least
I like the way the resin dried in the cup. I'd drill holes in it to hold pens.
This was one of the most informative videos I've watched the zig zag tip was golden
Stefan Mack It's physically impossible to cut a straight- to-zigzag line like he described. Notice they didn't give it a clear camera angle when he said "you can KIND OF see how its straight"??? Yeah... that's because it's not.
There's no clear camera angle, nor for Norm, because working hands and a cutting tool are in the way. Silicone CAN be stretched apart to be cut different ways. This really isn't complicated.
I guess you could fill the mold with water, then pour it into a measuring cup, that way you will know how much resin do you need.
More likely, you measure the mold and use the measurements to figure out the volume. L * W * H = V
I was thinking the same ;)
VariablePenguin That gives you a handy maximum, but you'd still end up with excess because that's both the negative and the positive together.
Filling with water would be a pain because it would get the silicon wet, and you'd have to wait for it to dry properly... I bet you could get something dry to fill it (rice? Maybe too dusty) and use the same principle though
ANameThatIsn'tMyOwn I was thinking more that you'd make the mold. Then you know the amount you used to make that. Figure out the volume of the entire box and subtract the amount you used to make the mold and that's your amount to fill the cavity.
VariablePenguin Your right, I did not think of that. Good idea
KNEW IT!! He was on face off!!
thanks for sharing valuable info, it's fascinating !
Knowing how much smooth-on products cost that amount of resin being wasted made me sad :D
When you know how much resin you use to fill a mold, label the mold with that amount (in this case 4 oz). You will save a lot of resin over a small number of casts! Especially if you don't do a lot of casting for a period of time, it will save you doing the trial an error multiple times...
I used to keep an excel sheet with spot on amount of each component for every piece to be casted
this is the best kind of video.
The fact that Frank is showing some Steve McQueen love with that t-shirt makes this video even better!!! Great choice Frank!!!
Boy I would sure love to hear what Frank has to say.
Norm asked great questions for someone like me who's looking into starting out as a fresh newbie to sculpting and casting. Some I didn't even think of asking! Like cleaning the molds with rubbing alcohol. Frank was fantastic as a tutor for the questions. Loved it!
You can use uncooked rice to measure the volume of the mold to get a rough estimate for your resin. Very cool video, I have molded a few things and learned a couple of cool tips.
Everything these guys do is ROCKET SCIENCE 😂🤣 😂 Awesome job on everything here
So much interest in rubber. I need to learn this
Also, with materials that have long working times you can use a vacuum chamber to extract the gasses and get a smoother mold. You should de-gas before and after pouring the silicone to remove as many bubbles as possible.
Depends on the application, but can be very useful. The materials (silicone and resin) they were using had quick working times for the sake of the video. Vacuum degassing usually requires a much longer working time than 2-1/2 minutes.
I use Lego to build my molds. Quick and totally reusable
Don't you mean the "Container" for the mold material. I agree - fast to assemble and reusable. Should be able to calculate the amount of mold material needed quite quickly too.
But expensive.
Peter Moore Ingenious idea bro! Thank you four years later!
@@phillhuddleston9445 not at all, not at long terms
Do you prep the LEGO’s so resin won’t stick?
Thanks guys!!!! Awesome Video.
More of these how to videos would be great to see!
Thanks was looking for a good video of this for so long
They should sell the recasts of the tested logos. I would buy that.
nice video, i always wanted to know how this is done in detail.. and the resin looks tasty.. robocop 2 brought me here indirectly
I don't see why people have such an issue with them mentioning this was brought to us by premium members. If I give money to something, I like to see tangable results of that donation, and having specific videos that highlight the fact that they could not be made without that money makes the whole thing much more transparent and worthwhile.
tbh i dont care if it was brought to us by crazy bob down the street ... the fact that it is here and they spend a few moments of a video to say so and so paid for this ... is not a big deal at all ... it beats the heck out of 5 ads through the video
one of the best videos yet! I love the subject!
Very cool episode, if you want soft metal Econosil silicone jewellry mold rubber can take solder, lead free solder melted. Talc is good release, smooth on is great but costly for learning.
sweet . love tested.
I particularly appreciate Norm asking the extra questions that us viewers at home cannot. I don't think there was anything left without explanation.
Very informative from both sides for newbie like me . Getting ready to try my own
Great Video, starting to get into casting myself!!!
This feels like the old internet now because they sound too nice and reasonable with each other.
I have so much respect for tested and Adam and all you professional guys. My only concern was the tested sign. If you get rubber underneath the cast is so hard to make flush. Not a problem here if course but if the piece needs to be level on all areas once cast, stick down on wood with carpet or double sided tape. Even if your master is stuck to the base, you can keep it and the mould will always puddle cast level
I like Frank, because he is a nice enough guy to feed into the dumb stuff the hosts say. You can just tell he is a patient, good dude.
While to me, the fact he had to exercise patience with the questions asked (and obviously so) means that he believes he was only there to create resin copies of 3d printed objects and not to create an educational video on such. Therefore, to compensate for this, Norm had to ask more questions than he should have, which meant he had to show effort, which people perceive as a weak trait (for some reason).
Max Fark .......no. Frank would have done fine by himself.
And I'm not specifically talking about the silly questions...but just the awkward, not funny personality of Norm.
Excellent video! Thanks guys :-D
You both rule! Thanks for sharing. This is super cool 😎 💗🌿✨😆
Thank you guys i loves the video i can't wait to make my molds
Imagine having this dude as your manager at work.
How fun! LOVE it :)Jen
Note this works well for models without gaps or small holes. Many models that people want are not designed for mass production and will need to be tweaked
This is very useful, thank you both.
I know in the video they used pigment to colour the resin but I'm wondering if you can use other medium like oil paints, ink or acrylic to colour the resin ?
* translucent resin
You gave me several ideas. I want to make a mold to make a cosmetic prostheses of my right foot toes that Iost severalyrs ago. Thanks
The King of Random video where Nate turns his foot into a Jolly Rancher may be of interest to you. They've also done prosthetic videos around Halloween time.
Frank was very aggravated at the redundancy of questions.
A longer set time for the raisin if you use polyester achieves a stronger resing. If you drop a fast cured resin it can smash like glass, and a slow one is more elastic and strong.
I can't seem to figure out how Frank has the red pigment already on his left hand index finger (3:28) when making the molds. He only gets it on his finger somewhere around 21:45 when the mold is already made, resin copy inception? :-)
Really nice to see how you guys make these resin copys.
They likely went back and remade the molds after filming the part casting. If you look at the end, the mixed resin looks like it is not fully mixed at the beginning with a lot of pink showing at the top of the pour. They likely did it this way to either save filming time, or to fit the schedule of the film crew.
Awesome video, so helpful! Thanks so much.
Sometimes Norm seems like a small child that has never been exposed to anything in the world with his questions and comments.
Part of being a host. In the same way during podcasts Will has to make sure they provide context for the layman. Without some of the "dumb" questions, we're sort of just watching ppl pour jello into a mold and not learning anything/technique.
+jtm2y watch my youtube channel
There is vibration table that dentists use when they cast teeth, that would help with the bubble problem when pouring resins into the mold
this will be amazing for dungeons and dragons and wargaming minis
Would the bubbles come out with the cup in a vaccum chamber?
With longer set time, yes. The materials used in the video cure quickly and would probably set before they could be degassed and used.
just want to tell you... it would be more helpful if you also have a link where to buy this all the product that were used in this project
I kind of disagree. None of these products are hard to find, and you might want to purchase them from different places depending on where you live. For example, I might want to order it from a company a couple cities over rather than from another country.
Links make more sense when you're talking about specific or hard to find things.
Although they could make money off of it with amazon affiliate links
Very good video. It would be nice if you include the complete bill of materials in the description of the video.
Kind regards,
Where did Frank get the Steve McQueen T-shirt....so cool, can't find it on the internet!
Adam reads XKCD!
Woot!
Would love to see more stuff like this!
Hey, it's Frank! Good job on Face off!
Thank you so much for this video! It was very helpful! Can I use acrylic paints to paint over the white smooth-cast 300? If not, what other types of casting material could I use that would allow me to paint with acrylics?
Most resins should take to most paints nicely. There may be some rare ones out there that don't like some types of paint, but the product info should say so either way. Always read the label before purchasing, and make a small test before any big project. :) Silicone will resist paint, but resins don't generally have that property at all.
Cleveland in the house.
Fantastic, are appreciate fine details and the work is first.! Thank you ...!
Is the resin and silicone also good for clay?
Yes. Some clay shapes, especially with overhangs like a chin, nose, ears, (up to the whole model) may be destroyed in the transfer, so it's usually used for temporary designs to be transferred, then the clay is recycled. You'd want to wash the mold carefully after making it, to remove clay residue.
One day, i´m gonna make resin copies of raisins.
Resin raisin - das amasin.
+1337fraggzb00N what's your resin raisin reason? And could have measured the volume of that mold with some other fluid first.
frumpyb the reason for a resin raisin is not reasonable.
'resin raisins' ...raising the bar ...and paving the way!! ; ) )
Firth Laist It´s raisin time!
+1337fraggzb00N Jaaaa! :D
Hello great video. Can you show how to make molds that are round. Thank you
Thanks guys. How many copies We can make with this setup?