Yeah, TH3D one is now Alpha EZ300, but the pictures still show the Artillery name and branding. I guess the company making the TH3D machines wanted a piece of the pie and started selling their own version of them too?
The mechanical and overall physical design on this thing looks superb. It's also nice that the control board has replaceable stepper drivers, you could easily upgrade it to Trinamic drivers. Software seems a bit rough, but I see a lot of potential.
I bought a V4 Sidewinder X1 DESPITE THIS REVIEW. I found it easy to assemble and printed the test cube with no fuss. I love the near silent operation, large print volume and extremely fast heating times. After weeks of printing (engineering parts): 1- I had to tighten the belt that moves the bed (easy). 2- The v-guide wheels are starting to shed plastic (I cleaned it but will replace them with poly-carbonate wheels). The print bed lost adhesion and nothing would print. (I cleaned it with kitchen paper and acetone and that fixed it.) Overall it is a great printer. Soon I aim to upgrade to all-metal with hardened nozzle so I can print Nylon and Nylon-X parts.
looking forward to that fan duct upgrade !! its amazing I stuffed a 1.2mm nozzle and can cruise at 80mm/s but the cooling can't keep up so warp collission layer shift. slow down and its fine. needs more cooling to zap the extrusions into place otherwise VERY pleased with the sidewinder !
Love your content, went out and got one these right away. However after almost a year of use, the conclusion is that I like my CR 10 way better. It never breaks, and the print quality is fantastic. The X1 keeps breaking and the only solution is to buy replacement parts Ugh!. So much time lost and money wasted upgrading this machine I wish people would stop recommending these machines until Artillery solves the quality issues.
First, thank you for all your great work and the incredible amount of data you share in your videos. You have made my personal journey into 3d printerland much easier since I stumbled upon your channel. I have a Wanhao D6, well actually the Monoprice badged version. It's been inconsistent and rather unpredictable, but I did jump into modding it way sooner than I should have. Be that as it may it's already required a new main board replacement in the four months I've owned it. It also has guide rod alignment issues that reduce the print volume by about 15mm on the X and Y axes. It also has a couple of other pretty annoying issues I have not been able to iron out. I do have the enclosure for the D6 and am probably going to keep it for ABS parts and the like that benefit from the higher tempt possible. So, I'm interested in a larger format open framed printer for PLA and PETG and the Artillery SWX-1 and the Tevo Nereus are the two front runners. Or would I bet better off with a CR-10S maybe? Do you have a preference or recommendation you would be willing to make?
im really surprised that this printer has less issues holding down abs then pla which is a little backward but a great plus for me considering just about all my prints are functional parts made of abs! , also its ability to print abs and holdit down was the biggest concerned I had about purchasing this printer, cannot wait to have mine delivered .thanks for your review!
A neat and solid looking machine, no question. Now the question is: how reliable is it, how solid are the electrical components and how long will it last with heavy use? And concerning the QA and product improvement policies of Chinese manufacturers, it is probably smarter to wait a few months until the apparent issues have been revealed and the design has been updated.
Thanks for the review, it was very interesting. My biggest negative is the flat ribbon cable going to the print head. As you pointed out, if not folded correctly, it can / will get damaged easily. Constant moving forces on that cable can / will cause connection issues. Also, each conductor is thin, so the hot end must be using several to be able to carry the current. If a conductor fails, it is a silent fail (you wont know) until enough fail and you have melting wires. The last con of this cable is when you add an auto probe, you will need external cables anyway, destroying the neat and polished looks it currently has. Other than that, it seem like a sturdy printer that needs a few firmware enhancements.
@@vanceblosser2155 Maybe. You would need engineering drawings / schematics or a couple of good photos of the connector board. Is this an open source printer?
@@vanceblosser2155 I should have been clear. I am questioning if the printer HARDWARE is open source. If so,we should be able to find the documentation. Sorry... EDIT - I looked this up on the net ( only about 10 minutes research) and I see no indication of OSHW.
@@markferrick10 Everything he showed in the video is available on AliExpress. I'm using that same motherboard, and the touch screen is available although I'm still using the older LCD panel. The AC bed heaters have started showing up in various sizes and voltages, the stepper motors don't appear to be unique, so if it's not open source it's pretty close. Also, if you have one at hand you could examine the cable connector ends and check for unused conductors.
Question: wouldn't those ribbon cables be prone to wear especially the x-axis one? I feel like they'd crack and I'd be out of luck to find the exact replacement. Does the package come with extras?
this machine totally kills the cr-10 pro for features alone!....a good customizable main-board..pr-loaded boot loader, many mks add on's , super easy to compile and upload firmware, led hot end light! y axis is beefed up...x axis is beefed up dual z ( syncing a dual z motor system is a bit odd..and may cause some issues) amazing cable management....ac bed....GLASS BED....this is a cr-10 murderer...awesome to see these "over seas" company stepping it up a notch....now if we can get them to switch to a 32 bit board
I like the look of this printer, the design of the frame and covers is very nice and clean, also seems like a well built frame.. I think this could be a great starting printer , then add few better parts and this could be a very good printer
Michael... 3 questions... How it's holding up? How did You remove the glass bed? Did You manage to improve the power loss recovery And filament run out?
It's now November 2019 and the Artillery X1 sidewinder is $570 ar Banggood and the Creality CR10s pro is 50% more at $820. A fairer comparison is with the CR-10S not the Pro version. I don't know what the Sidewinder cost back in January but now I would buy the Sidewinder over the CR10-S in a heartbeat.
@@staticred1559 Australian prices. The sellers were the usual suspects. Banggood, Aliexpress and Gearbest. Amazon Aus. is more expensive. I did buy an Ender 3 for UD$150 late last year from eBay which was a goodprice and that includes 10% GST (Sales Tax)
I’ve seen creators being bombarded with review requests for this machine and are really fed up with the company. They also use pictures and material from creators in their ads, a no-go. I’m new to this channel which seems great overall but have to see where my compass is pointing to eventually
Hi Vincent, they have been polite with me, no problems there. If they were to use my content without permission I wouldn't be happy. Generally if a company wants to, I don't have a problem because like this video I try to be fair and have constructive criticism.
If a company is sending a reviewer a free machine to review, i would say they should be allowed to use any pictures in their advertising and attaching the reviewers videos. Would be different if the review had purchased the machine independantly
This printer really is great, I love mine. Did you ever design a strain relief bracket for this? Or did you end up using the one that's on Thingiverse?
Nice video, very cool machine that took some bold steps to go the extra mile on details, interested if with a bit of tweaking you can get to CR10 levels of quality, at the end of the day, print quality is all that counts for me. Thanks
Ooooh, I love the ribbon cable! I've been thinking about making a Cat6 cable connector to do the same thing with my ender 3 - that would allow for much simpler part swaps and modularity. Still working out the details but it should tidy things up quite a bit!
hey dude i was wondering if you could do a video on error code for the sidewinder x1, im having a few errors that are halting the machine till i turn it off and back on again. seems like this is a channel that would cover something like this.
I got the Ender 3 Pro as my first printer less than 45 days ago, have been printing everyday. Very addicting. However, starting out was very frustrating, most of that frustration went away after I installed some stronger tensioned bed springs and got a glass bed (had to raise the z-stop). After that, my prints have been awesome. I only have a 25% failure rate. Thanks to Teaching Tech, I am finally going to install a BL Touch using his guide. I ordered all of the stuff and just waiting on an Audrino to install it next week. Makers Muse is another good channel to watch and learn. I don't know the price points, but I think there is an Ender 5 now. This printer has been an Awesome starter printer.
@@mactastic144 iam looking to purchase one and iam not familliar with the differences with the different versions. could you please tell me if you know what the differences are between the v1/2/3/4? thank you.
How are you liking the printer the ortur 4? I just looked it up and did a little research and the rail system looks very interesting. Redi rail is what I would say it is looks really sturdy and lots of features for 500 bucks. Was looking at buying my first printer and wanted something that is decent build volume and has a lot of the upgrades right out of the box and it looks like it could fit the bill.
@@cjcalhoun85 I love my Ortur 4 (very powerful and simple to use) but the most important thing is that the Ortur-support team is extremely friendly and honest
Thanks so much for this video, It actually helped me decide which printer I would go for (CR10S or Sidewinder) I don't know if you have noticed but you had the spool holder on the opposite side. It might have brought you some issues like the comment you raised around the filament sensor.
Teaching tech Please clear up the misconception that the heated bed uses more power because it has a higher current draw. It only takes X amount of power to heat a given mass with a given efficiency heater. So unless this is an incredibly inefficient heated bed, which it is not, or you have bias like having a fan blowing on this bed, it will use the same amount of power as any other heated bed. Simply the higher current heater will be on for less time. Energy, or in this case heat, does not magically disappear. In fact it may use slightly less power because it needs less time to heat up, therefore you are spending less time heating the air above the heated bed before the print starts. The only problem is if you do something stupid like having 4 of these, which rough estimate use 5amps of 120V at peak, running on the same 15A breaker, you will trip the breaker if they all heat their beds at the same time and your prints will fail if you let the glass cool down too much.
Hi Michael, this printer is direct drive so why did you not try any flexible type filaments? Thats where direct drive tech shines right? And where can we check if there is new firmware for this device? I want to see if the company makes updates regularly? I am considering buying it. Thanks, take care.
please do an update video on this printer. i suspect that after this mainsteam surge of ender 3 printer first time buyers, many of us are looking into an upgrade and this seems to be it.
Nice piece of equipment. If we could just take ALL the good features in the hundreds of Chinese "brands", we would have a pretty solid printer. Seems like no matter how they try, every machine has some glaring issue that needs correcting. Sigh, that is the Chinese way of manufacturing. I'm thinking of a CORE XY -vs- another Cartesian printer.
Hi Michael. Love you're reviews! In your honest opinion, for printing newbie, who wants to get the best quality prints for RC, drones and tinkering, would you recommend this Sidewinder X1 above the Ender 3 Pro (after your vid upgrades)? Pricewise the Ender3 pro (stock without the upgrades is cheaper on Banggood.) Please let me know, looking forward to hearing your opinion.
I have a question concerning the X1 V4. I have one of these and I am really happy with it for the most part. One thing that I found is that my extruder stepper motor is running at 70C which I am sure is too hot. However I also noted that the aluminum plate that holds the wheel on the x axis gets over 50C. This temperature delta by my calculations could cause the wheels to move over 1mm further appart which I am sure would cause some degradation in print quality along the Z axis. My question is what is the temperature that your extruder stepper motor is operating at? Yes I adjusted the roller tension. What I also found is that this unwanted excessive heat causes the cold end to get hot enough to deform the filament profile, cause jams and damage the PTFE as well.
Before each print, if I dial in the leveling to optimize first layer and clean my glass bed made from 1' square mirror panels (and by clean I mean wipe with micro fiber cloth to remove dust+fingerprints and occasionally use IPA if it's been an especially long time since i've used the printer or there are excessive fingerprints), I literally never have adhesion issues on a heated bed assuming no power loss. No glue or spray needed. It seems to me that the textured glass beds just don't cut mustard. If this bed isnt textured, maybe the heating element for the bed isnt powerful enough? or doesnt deliver consistent heating?
I have a big question for you. I would be grateful if you would answer me. Actually it's about water fanduct test. I have been having troubles with adjusting bulseye for ender 3 because there is none information or clip showing how should it looks like if it's perfect or good at least? When exactly can we tell if the cooling is good for a 3d printer? I just can't find the answer. Thank you very much in advance.
Might want to try the Ender 3 groups on FaceBook as there are thousands of people there that can answer questions a lot faster than on RUclips comments. Just a suggestion.
Artillery sidewinder x1 vs mingda d3 pro vs creality cr 10 v3? Which of the three printers would you prefer? Or what other direct drive printer would you prefer? Why is that? Thanks in advance for your answer.
Its nice to know that in a years time we are going to reach a time when 3d printers will be 90% complete. ribbon cables, 240v heat bed, dual extruders, auto bed levelling, all built in one rather than a separate box, titan hot end, sturdy frame etc. Hopefully, these will all be next to standard on the 3d printer in a year and at an affordable price.
There is no reason to, it is a 3:1 gear ratio. With direct drive dual gear is not needed in the slightest. Infact it becomes quite bothersome when changing filaments as the titan aero allows you to do it all manually, whereas the Bondtech BMG forces you to run the extruder when changing filament
Seems the issues are mainly related to custom officers opening the boxes, undoing the packaging and not putting things back correctly. They seem to be doing it just by the name of the product on the box.
Hi Michael nice review. Would you suggest this machine over the Prusa I3 Mk3? I know its a different beast but would you recommend that over the artillery?
Agree, autolevel on the bigger beds is *really* important because it's really hard to get the larger beds flat and level. On my 150x150mm bed printer doing manual leveling is no problem, but my CR-10 was a nightmare before I added a BLTouch.
From the looks of the extrusion on this one you won't have to level it often. My Folgertech FT-5 is massive and built like a tank. Only have to level the bed if I make changes and I hammer it at 75-80mm/s daily. Most of the Chinese 3-piece-meal printers rattle themselves to death. I prefer my zed on the bed anyway...
@@oldsjunkie1 The problem is, it can be close to impossible to get the bed level in the first place with the larger beds. And the larger the bed, the more likely it is to not be perfectly flat, meaning mesh compensation becomes increasingly necessary. Inductive or capacitive probes are cheap and the software side is already in Marlin, so I don't quite get why we don't see it more commonly.
Does anyone know a source for the end stops used on this printer? I see on Banggood that they are apparently using inductive endstops, which I'd be quite interested to have a look at in that size. **edit** I was just having a look at the video again and can see it's got branding and a model number on it....but can't make it out. It looks (kind of) like XNAS and H3-J9 but I get no results with that. **edit2** So as it turns out, it's easier to read letters an numbers if you're not trying to read them all upside down! SunX GL-8H. They're made by Panasonic, who oddly have them listed as discontinued. Their replacement is the GX-H8A, Panasonic have it listed at $36.70 each! They're about $17 each on AliExpress. Hopefully this company have plans for when the apparent surplus of the old GL-8H runs out - They're available at $11 for two currently on AliExpress, but that won't last.
Should i get a sidewinder and upgade it with auto bed leveling, or get a Prusa? Money is not an issue, but i like the bigger build volume of the sidewinder. If the print quality is 90% as good as the prusa, then im tempting towards the sidewinder.
* On this day, if you want to buy Creality cr-10 Pro or Sidewinder X-1, thinking about the quality of the material and the printing, what is your choice? * Your channel is very good, always advising at a high technical level. regards fron argentina
I just bought one of these. I want to upgrade the stepper drivers to TMCs and LV8729 on the Extruder but that requires reversing direction in Marlin. There is probably going to be 0 chance of them releasing the source code and since it has an RGB light I'm guessing just downloading Marlin means I wont be able to use the light if I configure fresh marlin?
Recently got a Sidewinder X1. I have a issue where prints that are in the middle of the bed do not stick. If I move the same print up closer to the front edge of the bed it will stick and print fine. What is the deal here. I tested the heat and the middle is heating just fine.
@@ablack9431 Use Cura 4.2.1: github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/4.2.1 and 3d-nexus.com/resources/file-archives/summary/8-artillery-evnovo/2-artillery-sidewinder-x1-machine-settings-for-cura
Would a light layer of glue-stick work rather than hairspray? Especially if I plan to print PETG at some point, which I've heard can fuse to glass beds..
you might want to try Wolfbite Nano for PLA adhesion, I've got some of the stuff (even reviewed it on my channel) and it is impressive to say the least. Shame the PLA one is only for PLA, but still, impressive stuff
wow awesome vid and awesome printer. Between that and the CR10S pro i'm wet... My only concern is all the electronics combined in the frame... I really like the removability of the Ender 3
Does creality pay out really well? Just asking because I don't know how you can say this printer is for a confidant 3d printer user? Its setup in less time and prints way more consistent then my creality machines. You point out there is less of a user base and a few small issues that you experienced well those issues have been addressed by that small user base you spoke of without the need of your design expertise. I was a fan of your channel but it is now apparent that its just a video factory to gain as many subscribers as possible. To those looking to get into 3d printing save yourself sometime and aggravation and skip the sub 400.00 market . I went down that road and now have the 200 printer to my left which takes some finesse to get a good print. To my right the x1 that I dont even think about I just print. Its seems that most of the 3d printing youtube channels have turned into the best bency channels its so much more complex than that.
The thermistor is the printers way of knowing the temp of the hot end. The hot end is a large resistor that gets REALLY hot. If the thermistor falls out or breaks and can't read the temp and thermal runaway is not enabled the printer will just believe the hot end is not hot enough and infinitely pump more power into it and then: 🔥🔥🔥. With thermal runaway enabled the heating of the hot end has to follow a certain curve (with some tolerance) or else the printer knows something is up and shuts it off automatically. Without it the printer is a fire risk if something happens to the termistor.
@@AmusementLabs thanks! The thermistor on my anet a8 is broken and it's a good thing I installed the latest Marlin firmware so it stopped before I caught my house on fire
Looking to buy my first printer and was leaning toward the anycubic I3 mega or maby the ender 5... I'm looking to do mainly table top mininitures ( high detailed small parts and large fastly printed terrain parts) and perhaps some drone parts soooo what would you or your community suggest?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the ender as a starting platform. Many people in many social media groups show amazing prints off a stock machine daily. It's all down to the calibration, slicer tweaks, cleanliness and filament quality. I have two Prusa mk3s' and love them. But if I only had Enders available, I'm sure I could get the same results
highly detailed miniture i would get a elegoo mars sla for 250 off amazon.(they sell out fast but I was able to get one. by the time I finished my buy now they were sold out again) as for terrain this when setup properly does amazing and they already have videos up about adding bltouch to it easily. The enders are great machines but I like this one alot more personally.
@@3dprintingbiker693 I have two fdm/fff printers now, and using them almost back to back. I have a client after some super high detailed, small parts. Probably going to pick up a SLA printer soon. Tossing between the Mars and the SL1...
My only concern with the newer printers is the AC-powered heatbeds. With no visibility over the manufacturing quality and the parts quality, I am a bit hesitant to use AC power on something that I will actually be touching.
I've been using an AC bed on my Tevo Tornado since November 2017 and it's run about 24/5, the downtime is mainly for me to pick something new to print. I put a strain release on the cable and added a ground for safety but have never had a single issue with it. The bed on that and this printer are glass which is non-conductive. The wire would have to break loose and touch the frame to be a hazard, and if you ground it your breaker should trip immediately if this would happen. I feel safer with this than I do a mostly plastic coffeemaker that gets way hot!
Hi, im looking at printers around 500$ usd, with a 300x300 bed this sidewinder looks great but do you have any other suggestions in that price range? i like to print tpu and pla and sometime petg i already have an ender 3 also
I'm in the same boat. Check out the Monoprice Maker Pro MK1. Its 300 x 300 x 400 and looks similar to this and the cr10s pro. I'm still waiting on some decent reviews on it but very tempted just to go for it.
#RUclips removed my “like!” I know I “liked”this video, as I bought and X-one just after you did this video and I’ve been following you for ages. That’s total BS in my eyes. Love your work.🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀🤓😎🐇
@@Nomanslandishere I don't think he has an issue with his unit. He has an issue with RUclips. He apparently saw this video last year, gave it a like and bought a sidewinder printer. Now one year later it turns out they deleted his like. Strange, but I have had it a few times that I followed a channel to find out that I suddenly wasn't following that channel anymore, so I would not be surprised of likes also disappear ;-)
Could you share your S3D Profile? I'm having a heck of a time trying to get a good print and find the sweet spot. I'd really appreciate if you might could help. thanks Great video
Okay me being very new to 3D printing what pla brands would you suggest I use to start off with so I don't have that aggravation and mistakes because of the pla being poor quality
@@mathewphillips4185 The filaments I have had good luck with are: eSun, 3D Solutech , Amolen, CCTree silk metal filaments, Hatchbox, Anet, Colorcubed, Gizmo Dorks, YoTilon, 3D Hero, Sunlu, Alpta, 3D Filament Pros, Zyltech, and believe it or not some Ebay unbranded filament at $10 per KG.
I use eSun PLA+ too, and also the Amazon Basics stuff is great. If you are new I would also suggest buying some color-changing silica gel and make yourself a drybox to keep your filament in top shape
Hello, I recently got are Sidewinder X1 Version 5 everything was going great until I got are an Error: Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0, my Heat bed and Extruder is also reading -15 I read this could be bad connecting with the ribbon cables so I inspected them for damage or burn marks but they looked ok I made sure they were fitted correctly but I still get the error and - 15 every time I try and heat up the extruder and heat bed so I mock fitted the spare ribbon cables and still no luck. I'm also getting Error: Printer halted kill () called! when I press the home on the screen since I only just got this printer 1 day ago I don't want to open up the bottom and have are look for a loose connection because that will void my warranty I feel like I might have gotten are lemon and getting are refund might be the best thing to do at this stage so far I'm not impressed by this printer I have 16 kg paperweight sitting on my desk until I can arrange a refund if anyone has any idea's or has run into this problem before and fixed it?
Just received my artillery sidewinder X1 yesterday. Not impressed. Lose hardware in the package, chipped paint, gouged ribbon cables, wiring feels cheap and not flexible enough for the tight turns. X axis on mine won't move at all....
hey guys looking into getting my first 3d printer. i like tinkering and building pcs etc so i dont think it needs to be to beginner friendly anyway i was set on getting a cr 10s but have come across this. what would you 3d printing veterans recommend between the 2? i was also considering going a ender 3 just on price incase i purchase a printer and it just sits there doing nothing but i doubt it. 😜 thankyou for any info
The CR-10S is better in my opinion than this one. However despite being cheaper and smaller I actually think the ender 3 is better than the cr-10s because (with my settings) it produces higher quality than the CR-10s however I don’t own any I just play around them quite a bit and my local maker space which I go to every day because I have a unlimited pass.
@@calebsmith.official4254 thanks for your input caleb i was looking at the ender 3 but the the only thing is print size im looking at the slightly bigger size of the cr10 type printers to make big char models with the kids and certain things for work etc that i think will benefit from the bigger build area. ? i was thinking of starting small and cheap incase i dont use it but if i do then i gotta upgrade again after lol
Great review as always Michael. It does look a very sturdy machine and I love the ribbon cable choice, I've considered that for the Borg. On another note, did you know that Simplify 3D claim they are working on the next v4 update, but more worryingly they say they are also working on v5.0, which will be a PAID upgrade, lets hope they are planning to make the cost reasonable. I have been wondering if they are financially troubled, maybe this is the only way to claw some cash in.
I just wanted to say thank you, I’m a regular to your channel and appreciate the hard work you put into all that you do. Thank you very much
Thought it was the TH3D Artillery. Just noticed they changed the name. Excellent review as always.
Yeah, TH3D one is now Alpha EZ300, but the pictures still show the Artillery name and branding. I guess the company making the TH3D machines wanted a piece of the pie and started selling their own version of them too?
@@Ardren Was thinking the same thing. The TH3D will come with their bed leveling sensor, which these days should be a base option.
Be nice to have a follow up post with modifications you've found helpful to include updating the firmware.
seconded!
third! Any update here?
The mechanical and overall physical design on this thing looks superb. It's also nice that the control board has replaceable stepper drivers, you could easily upgrade it to Trinamic drivers. Software seems a bit rough, but I see a lot of potential.
Nice new studio. I luv my cr-10s pro
Worth it?
Or a prusa?
Very cool printer, doing things a bit different, shout out to the engineers. Nice review!
I bought a V4 Sidewinder X1 DESPITE THIS REVIEW. I found it easy to assemble and printed the test cube with no fuss. I love the near silent operation, large print volume and extremely fast heating times. After weeks of printing (engineering parts): 1- I had to tighten the belt that moves the bed (easy). 2- The v-guide wheels are starting to shed plastic (I cleaned it but will replace them with poly-carbonate wheels). The print bed lost adhesion and nothing would print. (I cleaned it with kitchen paper and acetone and that fixed it.) Overall it is a great printer. Soon I aim to upgrade to all-metal with hardened nozzle so I can print Nylon and Nylon-X parts.
looking forward to that fan duct upgrade !! its amazing I stuffed a 1.2mm nozzle and can cruise at 80mm/s but the cooling can't keep up so warp collission layer shift. slow down and its fine. needs more cooling to zap the extrusions into place otherwise VERY pleased with the sidewinder !
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3410393
Just wondering if you would be willing to share your profile?
Please review the Artillery Genius. I'm thinking of getting one and I trust you reviews. Thanks!
Love your content, went out and got one these right away. However after almost a year of use, the conclusion is that I like my CR 10 way better. It never breaks, and the print quality is fantastic. The X1 keeps breaking and the only solution is to buy replacement parts Ugh!. So much time lost and money wasted upgrading this machine I wish people would stop recommending these machines until Artillery solves the quality issues.
Please make a video on how to make dual extrusion mod. Id love to print a water soluble filament for the supports.
First, thank you for all your great work and the incredible amount of data you share in your videos. You have made my personal journey into 3d printerland much easier since I stumbled upon your channel.
I have a Wanhao D6, well actually the Monoprice badged version. It's been inconsistent and rather unpredictable, but I did jump into modding it way sooner than I should have. Be that as it may it's already required a new main board replacement in the four months I've owned it. It also has guide rod alignment issues that reduce the print volume by about 15mm on the X and Y axes. It also has a couple of other pretty annoying issues I have not been able to iron out. I do have the enclosure for the D6 and am probably going to keep it for ABS parts and the like that benefit from the higher tempt possible.
So, I'm interested in a larger format open framed printer for PLA and PETG and the Artillery SWX-1 and the Tevo Nereus are the two front runners. Or would I bet better off with a CR-10S maybe? Do you have a preference or recommendation you would be willing to make?
Thermal runaway has saved my butt so many times It's a necessity!
A followup for V4 would be great, plus they are only $399 now. I'm insanely happy with mine so far!
Give me link where u bought it?
im really surprised that this printer has less issues holding down abs then pla which is a little backward but a great plus for me considering just about all my prints are functional parts made of abs! , also its ability to print abs and holdit down was the biggest concerned I had about purchasing this printer, cannot wait to have mine delivered .thanks for your review!
Thanks for your reviews. They help.
A neat and solid looking machine, no question. Now the question is: how reliable is it, how solid are the electrical components and how long will it last with heavy use?
And concerning the QA and product improvement policies of Chinese manufacturers, it is probably smarter to wait a few months until the apparent issues have been revealed and the design has been updated.
Thanks for the review, it was very interesting. My biggest negative is the flat ribbon cable going to the print head. As you pointed out, if not folded correctly, it can / will get damaged easily. Constant moving forces on that cable can / will cause connection issues. Also, each conductor is thin, so the hot end must be using several to be able to carry the current. If a conductor fails, it is a silent fail (you wont know) until enough fail and you have melting wires. The last con of this cable is when you add an auto probe, you will need external cables anyway, destroying the neat and polished looks it currently has. Other than that, it seem like a sturdy printer that needs a few firmware enhancements.
Is it possible they left a couple of extra conductors open in the ribbon cable for the addition of things like a bed leveler?
@@vanceblosser2155 Maybe. You would need engineering drawings / schematics or a couple of good photos of the connector board. Is this an open source printer?
@@markferrick10 I would assume so since he displayed the Marlin code used, but I have no further information on that.
@@vanceblosser2155 I should have been clear. I am questioning if the printer HARDWARE is open source. If so,we should be able to find the documentation. Sorry...
EDIT - I looked this up on the net ( only about 10 minutes research) and I see no indication of OSHW.
@@markferrick10 Everything he showed in the video is available on AliExpress. I'm using that same motherboard, and the touch screen is available although I'm still using the older LCD panel. The AC bed heaters have started showing up in various sizes and voltages, the stepper motors don't appear to be unique, so if it's not open source it's pretty close. Also, if you have one at hand you could examine the cable connector ends and check for unused conductors.
Question: wouldn't those ribbon cables be prone to wear especially the x-axis one? I feel like they'd crack and I'd be out of luck to find the exact replacement. Does the package come with extras?
I was thinking the same... It seems to have such a tight bend when the X carriage is all the way to the right side :/
@@slayga yeah, there is a spare apparently in the package so I guess they do expect it to eventually break. :/ I'd say make a wire chain or something.
@@AmusementLabs Ah yeah that's a shame. Can't beat how neat it looks though hey. I'm used to my Prusas' umbilical cord sticking out the back lol
this machine totally kills the cr-10 pro for features alone!....a good customizable main-board..pr-loaded boot loader, many mks add on's , super easy to compile and upload firmware, led hot end light! y axis is beefed up...x axis is beefed up dual z ( syncing a dual z motor system is a bit odd..and may cause some issues) amazing cable management....ac bed....GLASS BED....this is a cr-10 murderer...awesome to see these "over seas" company stepping it up a notch....now if we can get them to switch to a 32 bit board
A year later do you know if they've made improvements and polished out some of the issues he's highlighting?
mitch h would you still recommend this printer, or would you have a better one?
I like the look of this printer, the design of the frame and covers is very nice and clean, also seems like a well built frame.. I think this could be a great starting printer , then add few better parts and this could be a very good printer
Michael... 3 questions... How it's holding up?
How did You remove the glass bed?
Did You manage to improve the power loss recovery And filament run out?
It's now November 2019 and the Artillery X1 sidewinder is $570 ar Banggood and the Creality CR10s pro is 50% more at $820. A fairer comparison is with the CR-10S not the Pro version.
I don't know what the Sidewinder cost back in January but now I would buy the Sidewinder over the CR10-S in a heartbeat.
idc where you are looking. The artillery sidewinder x1 ist 350$ on Banggood. And the cr 10s PRO is 430$
@@staticred1559 Australian prices. The sellers were the usual suspects. Banggood, Aliexpress and Gearbest. Amazon Aus. is more expensive. I did buy an Ender 3 for UD$150 late last year from eBay which was a goodprice and that includes 10% GST (Sales Tax)
I’ve seen creators being bombarded with review requests for this machine and are really fed up with the company. They also use pictures and material from creators in their ads, a no-go. I’m new to this channel which seems great overall but have to see where my compass is pointing to eventually
Hi Vincent, they have been polite with me, no problems there. If they were to use my content without permission I wouldn't be happy. Generally if a company wants to, I don't have a problem because like this video I try to be fair and have constructive criticism.
If a company is sending a reviewer a free machine to review, i would say they should be allowed to use any pictures in their advertising and attaching the reviewers videos. Would be different if the review had purchased the machine independantly
This printer really is great, I love mine.
Did you ever design a strain relief bracket for this? Or did you end up using the one that's on Thingiverse?
Nice video, very cool machine that took some bold steps to go the extra mile on details, interested if with a bit of tweaking you can get to CR10 levels of quality, at the end of the day, print quality is all that counts for me. Thanks
Thanks for the video. It helps to have an oipnion. Which slicer and settings for this printer?
Ooooh, I love the ribbon cable! I've been thinking about making a Cat6 cable connector to do the same thing with my ender 3 - that would allow for much simpler part swaps and modularity. Still working out the details but it should tidy things up quite a bit!
hey dude i was wondering if you could do a video on error code for the sidewinder x1, im having a few errors that are halting the machine till i turn it off and back on again. seems like this is a channel that would cover something like this.
It looks alot like the creality cr-10 pro
And pretty good video i’m going to get a ender 3 Pro soon
I got the Ender 3 Pro as my first printer less than 45 days ago, have been printing everyday. Very addicting. However, starting out was very frustrating, most of that frustration went away after I installed some stronger tensioned bed springs and got a glass bed (had to raise the z-stop). After that, my prints have been awesome. I only have a 25% failure rate.
Thanks to Teaching Tech, I am finally going to install a BL Touch using his guide. I ordered all of the stuff and just waiting on an Audrino to install it next week. Makers Muse is another good channel to watch and learn.
I don't know the price points, but I think there is an Ender 5 now. This printer has been an Awesome starter printer.
Check crealitys ebay page they will auction units and you can snatch yourself a small discount. I bought my ender 3 pro for 212
Thanks:D
It looks like a good 3d printer. Man so many good devices out there.\
WHOA! Back up 8:14 . Did you print that with no supports? If so, what makes for such fantastic bridging?
Yeah shame he wasnt more specific here
What was the AU$ purchase price, or was this gifted to you for review?
They took the side fan off on my new Art SW-X1 7-1-2019, just had to tweek 2 of the rollers.
You might have a different revision. I have V3 and it isn't on the V4. He's using a V1 or V2.
@@mactastic144 iam looking to purchase one and iam not familliar with the differences with the different versions. could you please tell me if you know what the differences are between the v1/2/3/4? thank you.
Problem printer ;-) *very honest review, thank you* ...i use tank frame printer Ortur 4 ;-) very very stable & no plastic wheels
How are you liking the printer the ortur 4? I just looked it up and did a little research and the rail system looks very interesting. Redi rail is what I would say it is looks really sturdy and lots of features for 500 bucks. Was looking at buying my first printer and wanted something that is decent build volume and has a lot of the upgrades right out of the box and it looks like it could fit the bill.
@@cjcalhoun85 I love my Ortur 4 (very powerful and simple to use) but the most important thing is that the Ortur-support team is extremely friendly and honest
Thanks so much for this video,
It actually helped me decide which printer I would go for (CR10S or Sidewinder)
I don't know if you have noticed but you had the spool holder on the opposite side.
It might have brought you some issues like the comment you raised around the filament sensor.
Teaching tech Please clear up the misconception that the heated bed uses more power because it has a higher current draw. It only takes X amount of power to heat a given mass with a given efficiency heater. So unless this is an incredibly inefficient heated bed, which it is not, or you have bias like having a fan blowing on this bed, it will use the same amount of power as any other heated bed. Simply the higher current heater will be on for less time. Energy, or in this case heat, does not magically disappear. In fact it may use slightly less power because it needs less time to heat up, therefore you are spending less time heating the air above the heated bed before the print starts. The only problem is if you do something stupid like having 4 of these, which rough estimate use 5amps of 120V at peak, running on the same 15A breaker, you will trip the breaker if they all heat their beds at the same time and your prints will fail if you let the glass cool down too much.
Hi Michael, this printer is direct drive so why did you not try any flexible type filaments? Thats where direct drive tech shines right? And where can we check if there is new firmware for this device? I want to see if the company makes updates regularly? I am considering buying it. Thanks, take care.
please do an update video on this printer. i suspect that after this mainsteam surge of ender 3 printer first time buyers, many of us are looking into an upgrade and this seems to be it.
Thanks Michael. Interesting video. 😌
Nice piece of equipment. If we could just take ALL the good features in the hundreds of Chinese "brands", we would have a pretty solid printer. Seems like no matter how they try, every machine has some glaring issue that needs correcting. Sigh, that is the Chinese way of manufacturing. I'm thinking of a CORE XY -vs- another Cartesian printer.
Hi Michael. Love you're reviews! In your honest opinion, for printing newbie, who wants to get the best quality prints for RC, drones and tinkering, would you recommend this Sidewinder X1 above the Ender 3 Pro (after your vid upgrades)?
Pricewise the Ender3 pro (stock without the upgrades is cheaper on Banggood.) Please let me know, looking forward to hearing your opinion.
I have a question concerning the X1 V4. I have one of these and I am really happy with it for the most part. One thing that I found is that my extruder stepper motor is running at 70C which I am sure is too hot. However I also noted that the aluminum plate that holds the wheel on the x axis gets over 50C. This temperature delta by my calculations could cause the wheels to move over 1mm further appart which I am sure would cause some degradation in print quality along the Z axis. My question is what is the temperature that your extruder stepper motor is operating at? Yes I adjusted the roller tension. What I also found is that this unwanted excessive heat causes the cold end to get hot enough to deform the filament profile, cause jams and damage the PTFE as well.
Before each print, if I dial in the leveling to optimize first layer and clean my glass bed made from 1' square mirror panels (and by clean I mean wipe with micro fiber cloth to remove dust+fingerprints and occasionally use IPA if it's been an especially long time since i've used the printer or there are excessive fingerprints), I literally never have adhesion issues on a heated bed assuming no power loss. No glue or spray needed. It seems to me that the textured glass beds just don't cut mustard. If this bed isnt textured, maybe the heating element for the bed isnt powerful enough? or doesnt deliver consistent heating?
I have a big question for you. I would be grateful if you would answer me. Actually it's about water fanduct test. I have been having troubles with adjusting bulseye for ender 3 because there is none information or clip showing how should it looks like if it's perfect or good at least?
When exactly can we tell if the cooling is good for a 3d printer? I just can't find the answer. Thank you very much in advance.
Might want to try the Ender 3 groups on FaceBook as there are thousands of people there that can answer questions a lot faster than on RUclips comments. Just a suggestion.
@@abarasabwehttam Thanks I will try.
Artillery sidewinder x1 vs mingda d3 pro vs creality cr 10 v3? Which of the three printers would you prefer? Or what other direct drive printer would you prefer? Why is that? Thanks in advance for your answer.
Its nice to know that in a years time we are going to reach a time when 3d printers will be 90% complete. ribbon cables, 240v heat bed, dual extruders, auto bed levelling, all built in one rather than a separate box, titan hot end, sturdy frame etc. Hopefully, these will all be next to standard on the 3d printer in a year and at an affordable price.
Nice vidéo, as a first time buyer for a 3d printer and looking for details, artillerie x1 or cr10s?
nice review, looks like a tank indeed
Great review! Have you replaced the stock extruder with a BMG style one yet? Thanks
There is no reason to, it is a 3:1 gear ratio. With direct drive dual gear is not needed in the slightest. Infact it becomes quite bothersome when changing filaments as the titan aero allows you to do it all manually, whereas the Bondtech BMG forces you to run the extruder when changing filament
Seems the issues are mainly related to custom officers opening the boxes, undoing the packaging and not putting things back correctly. They seem to be doing it just by the name of the product on the box.
Hi Michael nice review. Would you suggest this machine over the Prusa I3 Mk3? I know its a different beast but would you recommend that over the artillery?
Are you going to release your configurations and profiles for the printer?
How do you like the Sidewinder compared to the JGMaker A5S?
Why don't these larger format 3d printers have auto leveling? Seems they have all the other features minus that.
Agree, autolevel on the bigger beds is *really* important because it's really hard to get the larger beds flat and level. On my 150x150mm bed printer doing manual leveling is no problem, but my CR-10 was a nightmare before I added a BLTouch.
From the looks of the extrusion on this one you won't have to level it often. My Folgertech FT-5 is massive and built like a tank. Only have to level the bed if I make changes and I hammer it at 75-80mm/s daily. Most of the Chinese 3-piece-meal printers rattle themselves to death. I prefer my zed on the bed anyway...
@@oldsjunkie1 The problem is, it can be close to impossible to get the bed level in the first place with the larger beds. And the larger the bed, the more likely it is to not be perfectly flat, meaning mesh compensation becomes increasingly necessary. Inductive or capacitive probes are cheap and the software side is already in Marlin, so I don't quite get why we don't see it more commonly.
Does anyone know a source for the end stops used on this printer? I see on Banggood that they are apparently using inductive endstops, which I'd be quite interested to have a look at in that size.
**edit** I was just having a look at the video again and can see it's got branding and a model number on it....but can't make it out. It looks (kind of) like XNAS and H3-J9 but I get no results with that.
**edit2** So as it turns out, it's easier to read letters an numbers if you're not trying to read them all upside down! SunX GL-8H. They're made by Panasonic, who oddly have them listed as discontinued. Their replacement is the GX-H8A, Panasonic have it listed at $36.70 each! They're about $17 each on AliExpress.
Hopefully this company have plans for when the apparent surplus of the old GL-8H runs out - They're available at $11 for two currently on AliExpress, but that won't last.
Should i get a sidewinder and upgade it with auto bed leveling, or get a Prusa? Money is not an issue, but i like the bigger build volume of the sidewinder. If the print quality is 90% as good as the prusa, then im tempting towards the sidewinder.
I am planning to buy my first 3D printer. I first watched Ender 3 v2.
Which printer would you recommend for a beginner?
What is the name of the extruder stepper motor the printer uses?
* On this day, if you want to buy Creality cr-10 Pro or Sidewinder X-1, thinking about the quality of the material and the printing, what is your choice? * Your channel is very good, always advising at a high technical level. regards fron argentina
I just bought one of these. I want to upgrade the stepper drivers to TMCs and LV8729 on the Extruder but that requires reversing direction in Marlin.
There is probably going to be 0 chance of them releasing the source code and since it has an RGB light I'm guessing just downloading Marlin means I wont be able to use the light if I configure fresh marlin?
i have the source code
Recently got a Sidewinder X1. I have a issue where prints that are in the middle of the bed do not stick. If I move the same print up closer to the front edge of the bed it will stick and print fine. What is the deal here. I tested the heat and the middle is heating just fine.
I have an Anycubic Chiron and it is amazing. Cost me less than a CR-10 too.
Thanks for the review. I just got this printer. Do you have a profile you can share for this printer?
Kirk did you get a profile?
@@ablack9431 Use Cura 4.2.1: github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/4.2.1 and 3d-nexus.com/resources/file-archives/summary/8-artillery-evnovo/2-artillery-sidewinder-x1-machine-settings-for-cura
Would a light layer of glue-stick work rather than hairspray? Especially if I plan to print PETG at some point, which I've heard can fuse to glass beds..
you might want to try Wolfbite Nano for PLA adhesion, I've got some of the stuff (even reviewed it on my channel) and it is impressive to say the least. Shame the PLA one is only for PLA, but still, impressive stuff
What large printers with auto bed leveling would you suggest ?
How do I get rid of the uneven layers produced by this print?
wow awesome vid and awesome printer. Between that and the CR10S pro i'm wet...
My only concern is all the electronics combined in the frame... I really like the removability of the Ender 3
I know its been awhile can cura be use with this printer and can u take replace the bed with mirror glass
hello
what about bed is there ground cable for ac ?
is it possible to fix cable ac on bed for secure ?
and what about put a magnetic support ?
It is like a tevo flash and a cr-10 smushed together
More like the CR-10S Pro.
Does creality pay out really well? Just asking because I don't know how you can say this printer is for a confidant 3d printer user? Its setup in less time and prints way more consistent then my creality machines. You point out there is less of a user base and a few small issues that you experienced well those issues have been addressed by that small user base you spoke of without the need of your design expertise. I was a fan of your channel but it is now apparent that its just a video factory to gain as many subscribers as possible. To those looking to get into 3d printing save yourself sometime and aggravation and skip the sub 400.00 market . I went down that road and now have the 200 printer to my left which takes some finesse to get a good print. To my right the x1 that I dont even think about I just print. Its seems that most of the 3d printing youtube channels have turned into the best bency channels its so much more complex than that.
So... is that moving bed with no strain relief for the mains heater ungrounded?
What are the stepper drivers? From the Alibaba stock picture, it looks like they have TMC2100 knock-offs -- AT2100.
Nothing wrong with that. They still do 128 microsteps right
Can you publish you me settings used for various filament types? I have been unsuccessful in printing ABS on this printer.
With the ribbon cable to the hot end, how difficult do you think it would be to add a BLTouch to this printer?
Runs on marlin, I own one and they said they would send me the firmware which is marlin. So it should be doable.
What is thermal runaway detection?
The thermistor is the printers way of knowing the temp of the hot end. The hot end is a large resistor that gets REALLY hot. If the thermistor falls out or breaks and can't read the temp and thermal runaway is not enabled the printer will just believe the hot end is not hot enough and infinitely pump more power into it and then: 🔥🔥🔥. With thermal runaway enabled the heating of the hot end has to follow a certain curve (with some tolerance) or else the printer knows something is up and shuts it off automatically. Without it the printer is a fire risk if something happens to the termistor.
@@AmusementLabs thanks! The thermistor on my anet a8 is broken and it's a good thing I installed the latest Marlin firmware so it stopped before I caught my house on fire
Looking to buy my first printer and was leaning toward the anycubic I3 mega or maby the ender 5... I'm looking to do mainly table top mininitures ( high detailed small parts and large fastly printed terrain parts) and perhaps some drone parts soooo what would you or your community suggest?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the ender as a starting platform. Many people in many social media groups show amazing prints off a stock machine daily. It's all down to the calibration, slicer tweaks, cleanliness and filament quality.
I have two Prusa mk3s' and love them. But if I only had Enders available, I'm sure I could get the same results
highly detailed miniture i would get a elegoo mars sla for 250 off amazon.(they sell out fast but I was able to get one. by the time I finished my buy now they were sold out again) as for terrain this when setup properly does amazing and they already have videos up about adding bltouch to it easily. The enders are great machines but I like this one alot more personally.
@@3dprintingbiker693 bltouch?
@@3dprintingbiker693 I have two fdm/fff printers now, and using them almost back to back. I have a client after some super high detailed, small parts. Probably going to pick up a SLA printer soon. Tossing between the Mars and the SL1...
@@MadNitr0 yes the sensor for auto leveling.
Nice, interesting printer 😀👍
Thanks for sharing👍😀
My only concern with the newer printers is the AC-powered heatbeds. With no visibility over the manufacturing quality and the parts quality, I am a bit hesitant to use AC power on something that I will actually be touching.
I've been using an AC bed on my Tevo Tornado since November 2017 and it's run about 24/5, the downtime is mainly for me to pick something new to print. I put a strain release on the cable and added a ground for safety but have never had a single issue with it. The bed on that and this printer are glass which is non-conductive. The wire would have to break loose and touch the frame to be a hazard, and if you ground it your breaker should trip immediately if this would happen. I feel safer with this than I do a mostly plastic coffeemaker that gets way hot!
Hi, im looking at printers around 500$ usd, with a 300x300 bed
this sidewinder looks great but do you have any other suggestions in that price range? i like to print tpu and pla and sometime petg
i already have an ender 3 also
I'm in the same boat. Check out the Monoprice Maker Pro MK1. Its 300 x 300 x 400 and looks similar to this and the cr10s pro. I'm still waiting on some decent reviews on it but very tempted just to go for it.
I use glue sticks on my Dremel 3d45 glass bed and never had an adhesion problem - never tried hair spray- interesting
#RUclips removed my “like!”
I know I “liked”this video, as I bought and X-one just after you did this video and I’ve been following you for ages.
That’s total BS in my eyes.
Love your work.🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀🤓😎🐇
How so? what's the issue for your unit?
@@Nomanslandishere I don't think he has an issue with his unit. He has an issue with RUclips. He apparently saw this video last year, gave it a like and bought a sidewinder printer. Now one year later it turns out they deleted his like. Strange, but I have had it a few times that I followed a channel to find out that I suddenly wasn't following that channel anymore, so I would not be surprised of likes also disappear ;-)
Could you share your S3D Profile? I'm having a heck of a time trying to get a good print and find the sweet spot. I'd really appreciate if you might could help. thanks Great video
Okay me being very new to 3D printing what pla brands would you suggest I use to start off with so I don't have that aggravation and mistakes because of the pla being poor quality
get some eSun PLA+ stronger and more flexible than PLA, same price, same temps, no special concerns at all
@@mrb2917
Thank you I will try that.
@@mathewphillips4185 The filaments I have had good luck with are: eSun, 3D Solutech , Amolen, CCTree silk metal filaments, Hatchbox, Anet, Colorcubed, Gizmo Dorks, YoTilon, 3D Hero, Sunlu, Alpta, 3D Filament Pros, Zyltech, and believe it or not some Ebay unbranded filament at $10 per KG.
I use eSun PLA+ too, and also the Amazon Basics stuff is great. If you are new I would also suggest buying some color-changing silica gel and make yourself a drybox to keep your filament in top shape
Is there any way to check for or repair sub standard filament?
I think you put your spool holder on backwards
Please where can I buy the artillery sw x1 v4? Need it urgently.
hmm, i think tevo also has thermal runaway enabled by default
Yes. My Tornado (from November of 2017) had it enabled, and the one I gave my adult daughter for Christmas also had it enabled.
Hai sir. My 3d printer artillery sidewinder x1 . This printer running nozzle blacked.
Any update here?
Hmm... When is the CR-10s Pro review coming out? Waiting for it for days...
Still no review of the CR-10s Pro??? WTF
Hello, I recently got are Sidewinder X1 Version 5 everything was going great until I got are an Error: Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0, my Heat bed and Extruder is also reading -15 I read this could be bad connecting with the ribbon cables so I inspected them for damage or burn marks but they looked ok I made sure they were fitted correctly but I still get the error and - 15 every time I try and heat up the extruder and heat bed so I mock fitted the spare ribbon cables and still no luck.
I'm also getting Error: Printer halted kill () called! when I press the home on the screen since I only just got this printer 1 day ago I don't want to open up the bottom and have are look for a loose connection because that will void my warranty I feel like I might have gotten are lemon and getting are refund might be the best thing to do at this stage so far I'm not impressed by this printer I have 16 kg paperweight sitting on my desk until I can arrange a refund if anyone has any idea's or has run into this problem before and fixed it?
Try posting it on the reddit forum.
Also, people on Discord are very kind and helpful if you need to troubleshoot.
discord.gg/aWYh49p
which nozzle model suitable for artillery SW?
Does this printer work with cura?
Yup, cura works for most 3d printers. If there isn't a setting for this printer you can just import the build plate size and you should be good to go
Ok thanks
Can you share your .FFF printer profile for Simplify3d?! Thanks
Just received my artillery sidewinder X1 yesterday. Not impressed. Lose hardware in the package, chipped paint, gouged ribbon cables, wiring feels cheap and not flexible enough for the tight turns. X axis on mine won't move at all....
hey guys looking into getting my first 3d printer. i like tinkering and building pcs etc so i dont think it needs to be to beginner friendly anyway i was set on getting a cr 10s but have come across this. what would you 3d printing veterans recommend between the 2?
i was also considering going a ender 3 just on price incase i purchase a printer and it just sits there doing nothing but i doubt it. 😜
thankyou for any info
The CR-10S is better in my opinion than this one. However despite being cheaper and smaller I actually think the ender 3 is better than the cr-10s because (with my settings) it produces higher quality than the CR-10s however I don’t own any I just play around them quite a bit and my local maker space which I go to every day because I have a unlimited pass.
@@calebsmith.official4254 thanks for your input caleb i was looking at the ender 3 but the the only thing is print size im looking at the slightly bigger size of the cr10 type printers to make big char models with the kids and certain things for work etc that i think will benefit from the bigger build area. ?
i was thinking of starting small and cheap incase i dont use it but if i do then i gotta upgrade again after lol
Great review as always Michael. It does look a very sturdy machine and I love the ribbon cable choice, I've considered that for the Borg. On another note, did you know that Simplify 3D claim they are working on the next v4 update, but more worryingly they say they are also working on v5.0, which will be a PAID upgrade, lets hope they are planning to make the cost reasonable. I have been wondering if they are financially troubled, maybe this is the only way to claw some cash in.