I was changing my alternator in my 2007 Rav 4 yesterday. As a quick aside, yes Rav 4 is not that exciting, but the thing is 17 years old and aside from regular maintenance, I've only had to replace the alternator and the starter. Anyway, to detension the serpentine belt tensioner I had to use a 19mm ratchet which was fine, but the clearance was so limited. It took me 20 minutes to figure out the exact spot to get the ratchet in and there was really no room except just to detension. I'm an amateur mechanic by all measure and I think the thing I struggle with always is room to work.
The air hammer bit is called "pneumatic bolt breaker" for anyone trying to find it on Amazon. They are around $15 for one 3/8" drive and one 1/2" drive
Why is this better than a solid impact wrench? Genuinely curious. Would this be more so for people who don’t own an actual impact wrench? I’ve got a stubby and high torque, nothing will stop them unless it’s a bolt torqued to like 2k lbs lol
@@user-wd7bb6mx4j I have an air impact that frequently isn't enough power to break some bolts (I have a 30 year old truck and I live in the rust belt) so this is something that would be super useful for me more than a few times. If you never need it then yeah, don't get it. But I could use this pretty frequently, and it sure beats trying to get a 25” breaker bar into some spots.
@@user-wd7bb6mx4j you're basically adding torque to your impact wrench. At that point you heading beyond what's capable of an impact wrench but $15 dollar tool vs a hydraulic impact wrench I'd try the $15 tool first see if you get lucky.
its a completely different mechanism that has a few advantages. firstly the hammering will force the bit into the nut/bolt. secondly the hammering breaks up rust and corrosion in a more effective manner than an impact. lastly you can apply more controlled torque via a wrench. if you tried to use an impact in this situation you would likely strip the fastener worse or snap something.
That’s aluminum brother, it responds nicely to a little heat…just don’t get it too hot or it’ll become brittle (or melt). I also work in the marine industry and I’ve had to remove hundreds of nuts, bolts, and fittings that were oxidized in place. It’s definitely not an easy job, so I tip my hat to you for sharing this tip for everyone. There’s a lot of people out there that don’t have a clue as to how to remove bolts or fittings like that….so your video is probably going to help a lot of folks. Good job brother, have an amazing day!
Sure, if the engine is on a stand in the middle off the garage. lol Other than a Funny Car, I have never seen a vehicle that you are going to get that thing onto the exhaust manifold bolts while the engine is in the car. You may get lucky on a few thru the wheel wells, but that's about it.
How has no one else seen that .. this is like one of those bad finger shaking tool sale videos from India 😂😂😂 it was clearly to small but for some reason your the only comment Ive found that caught it so far 🤦...
HAY THERE BUDDY SOMEONE'S GONNA CALL YA OUT ON THAT OH HEAT WILL RUIN IT WEAKEN THA METAL WAH WAH WAH 😪🤧 I'VE NEVER HAD ANYTHING FAIL AFTER USING HEAT ☝️BUT I NEVER BRING IT TO BRILLIANT RED IN THA FIRST PLACE
That's awesome! Yeah I just did a j series Honda Ridgeline and finally found out about the Lyle heavy mass socket and instead of wrenching on it with 6-ft extension poles and using propane torches and jacks under the breaker bars. Just put it on my impact and it was off in seconds. The right tool for a job definitely makes things so much better.
I been using a Pittsburgh half inch ratchet just like that one daily for over 6 years and I do mean hard work. That is the absolute best ratchet I have ever bought for under $100
@@grapeseed427 when I worked in a foundry, the majority of work was in places where a dropped tool was goodbye forever. No way in hell I was bringing anything more expensive than Pittsburgh to work. Surprisingly, they have lasted well over a decade. Only a hand full of sockets, 7/16, 1/2, 13mm, 3/4 (all 12pt) have eventually worn down after tens of thousands of bolts and probably close to a million impacts. No splits or fails. Just enough wear that on abused bolts and nuts they were slipping. The Pittsburgh swivel heads (green and grey handle) my 3/8 failed, the ratchet pawl got loose or something and quit engaging and no way to take those apart. People rag on HF and I think they're just big mad they spent five figures on tool truck name brand and it's not any better. The only thing I would say I missed was on deep well sockets, having the shoulder be only a nut deep. But easy enough to grab those in specific sizes.
I worked as a bost and yacht mechanic for 6 years. Ive never had to us anything other than mercrusiers tool for those gimble ring hinge pins and a simple propane torch heating the bell housing from the inside to loosen the locktight they use on them.
It was a game changer for me when I added an air hammer to my tool arsenal. Popping rivets, suspension work, shearing sheet metal, chiseling fasteners with broken/stripped heads off. Gotta get you one
Tire man here, I tell all the people that don't speak English that it's like rust but different. Ehh they always just nod and say yes to anything you say anyways...
@@tristanphillips8937yeah pretty much. Rust is specifically the corrosion of iron into iron oxide. So all rust is corrosion but not all corrosion is rust. It's all the same thing though cause it's just a metal oxidizing so calling aluminum oxide rust is TECHNICALLY wrong but you're just being an ass if you're constantly correcting people on that outside of an English class.
@@tristanphillips8937 slightly different. Found this just now: “Aluminum doesn't rust because it doesn't contain iron or steel, but it can corrode when exposed to oxygen and water. This process is called oxidation and it creates a thin, hard layer of aluminum oxide that protects the metal from further corrosion. The aluminum oxide can appear as a white or gray coating that's similar to aluminum's natural color, making it hard to see.”
@@harrisp584 rust is oxidation and so is corrosion, both seize bolts and compromise strength of parts. And depending on the alloy of aluminum it can keep corroding, I get that aluminum oxidation usually protects the rest of the metal from further oxidation but really it’s the same thing and getting caught up in the technicality’s is kinda just dumb😂 both processes are caused by the same thing and do the same thing so it doesn’t matter. We call iron/steel rust corrosion too right? So why not call aluminum oxidation rust
I wish I had my grandfather's impact wrenches from the 1895.Yes, that's how old they were when I became across them but my cousin took them.I was out at sea.He died by the time I got home.They were gone. That was the day when you made a wrench out of a really heavy massive metal like bronze metal. You left us. You had a striking surface on one end. You had the nut, the nut on the other. You know the socket whatever and you just tapped it, you didn't wail. On it, you tapped it with a no more hammer. Or a dead blowhammer, just tap tap, tap tap. And it would turn any stock screw. It took some time sometime. You had the tap at 1015 times but it would do it. ISO missed those ranches. I was a little kid when I first saw them. And it was the perfect thing to have a little kid do. You're just tapped to sign this log up until it turns.Let me know when it turns well.Let me know when it's all 5 of them are able to turn.Don't take them off.Just tap them so they're loose. Is best summers ever.
We Germans still have them! Both in open & boxed style. Only in large sizes, though, 50mm and up. They used to be used in heavy equipment machinery like steam engines etc. I recently bought a 55mm-version for my maintenance team, because it was more ergonomical to use than our old & massive pneumatic impact driver for one specific job.
I got a few of those. They work. I got all the exhaust manifold nuts off of an old 3406B CAT. Not one snapped off stud. That’s rare and would never ever happen otherwise.
This bit is great lol. The amount of stuff that needs to be removed with repetitive hits and twisted is ever increasing in the rust belt. These work great on stuck screws too. Spray a penetrating oil on them and vibrate them, first tighten a smidge,then loosen. Keeps you from stripping the Phillips head.
@@F-Man while oxidation is correct, when describing various metals, the term rust is used for ferrous and corroding is non ferrous. Having worked on vehicles for over 40 years the terms are used in reference to specific parts and the decay of said parts. Frames and bodies rust while electrical such as wires and connectors corrode.
@@timlad5 oxidation is oxidation. The term corrode and rust don’t matter. Oxidation is the same no matter what it just affects different metals and alloys differently. If you are going to be technically go all the way down to the beginning of a stupid ass argument.
“Freezeoff” works like magic on all of the common Aircraft, Marine, and exotic aluminum alloys like cast Magnesium, or high end Titanium that’s prone to galling when fasteners, inserts, wrist pins, bushings, dowels, shoulder bolts, set screws, thread-serts, heli-coils, are driven, pressed, riveted or worked into place, It’s best to use a copper based anti-seize, or gasket sealer spray, in a highly corrosive mineral rich or marine environment, so they’re easier to remove. Don’t get me wrong, you did an excellent job of making short work of a hassle.
Since this is out of stock you can take an air chisel and cut the end off, then weld a 2" extension on it. Not sure if the tool would last but it will definitely get the job done
In aircraft maintenance we call that a screw knocker, air hammer fitting with a handle and a 1/4 hex receptacle. Works wonders on the rusted sheet metal screws on clapped out 1960s aircraft somehow still flying around
When remaking it is good to use TefGel, a product that is used in the marine industry when making up dissimilar metals; it prevents galvanic corrosion.
All forms of impact tools are life savers… and conversely rather than using it to get something out, in certain situations where there’s a stubborn screw refusing to go in to something hard then an impact driver can make sure that screw gets reaaaal deep and never comes back out…
This reminds me of a tool that was called a ' Woodpecker' used with a 4x rivet gun, at places that I used to work at, to remove stick screws... Very cool idea...
you got a big smile out of me. I want that tool setup! I have an air hammer, I have wrenches. Extractor (set, probably) and adapter is what I want. Neat. I'd add a good dose of penetrant but still. Cool.
Those (fine-thread) pins are held in with red loctite and torqued to 150-odd ft*lbs. Heat them up and you can crack them with a breaker bar. Impacting a stainless fastener blind tapped into aluminum a few times will trash the female threads. Anything "crusty" is the aluminum gimbal ring, not the (stainless) hinge pin.
One thing that I have learned from my first months on the job: ALWAYS use the proper tools! But also know how to adapt when you don't have what you need.
I've got a special screw driver that you hit with a hammer to make it turn. It helps prevent stripping the head of the bolt or screw. It's been very useful.
When using a. Allen, torx, or triple square it's import to make sure you seat it properly by giving it a few taps with a hammer before applying any torque to it. This situation can usually be avoided.
First time I removed the hinge pins, with all of the correct tools, one came out perfectly, but one pulled the threads out of the bell housing. Almost lost my mind as the boat and lower unit were in 'garage queen' condition. And, like everything else when doing boat maintenance, it happened a few days before boat vacation. Had to install a Time Sert to fix which was simple, but cost a lot to get in fast.
Everyone needs an extractor set. Stripped out bolt on my Harley shift linkage. To top it off the linkage stripped, so I had to drive back home shifting by turning my foot into the linkage, I kept it in second and stayed on the streets on the way home.
@@ToolDemos You are not wrong. It was a struggle for a few miles and stopping at red lights really had me. But the Harley had enough torque to get out of it, I feel bad for the clutch though.
Hinge pins are made of stainless steel. The gimble ring and gimbal housing are made of aluminum. The aluminum suffers from galvanic corrosion in this pairing of dissimilar metals.
This totally my dad right here! Ill have worked on the same spot for an hour and ill give up and call my pops. He'll come over and in between a cigarette he'll have that bolt out and the new part halfway in already! Freaking dads i tell ya. 😅❤
I've never stripped out one of those gimbal pins... If you prep it correctly and use lots of heat they aren't that bad. Even it it was stripped out and you were doing it this way you should still be using heat. Saltwater boat mechanic's two best tools are a torch and a sledge hammer!
Super easy? Easy would've been using the correct bit. The stainless pin/fastener wasn't crusty. I had to remove some of these the other day. After none of the triple square bits fit properly I did a little research and found that it's 1/2" and a 1/2" hex bit was recommended..fit perfect. Work smarter, not harder.
Wonder if they knew "We're gonna need a bigger boat" would be used and adapted for so many different situations to the point I bet many people who use it don't know where it came from
Funny part is there is no rust in that area. That’s a stainless steel bolt going into aluminum. Two different metals in some salt water and you get yourself corrosion. That bolt was corroded in there not rusted. Trust me I’m a carpenter
Great way to ruin the extractor, before we even talk about burying it. That style extractor is NOT supposed to be struck. You'll just roll/strip the vanes. Only extractors with much shallower 10-20° twist are meant to be hammered
Perfect example of not only having the right tool for the job but also only using the tool when necessary.. ive replaced 3 lug nuts on my car in 2 years so far cuz most tire shop idiots just go full send with the air hammer. My lugnuts are specced for 80 foot pounds of torque and theres been times they put it in the 200lb range with those air hammers to be lazy 💀
Rust is corrosion of steel, colored brown or red. White powder is corrosion of aluminum. Corrosion is corrosion, regardless of aluminum or steel, and its colors.
It's a stainless pivot pin and the housing is aluminum, so where do you get rust? It's aluminum oxidation and possibly some electrolysis? Thread lock is also used on threading to prevent loosening under engine power.
Super easy, the thread is completely destroyed - really a good job. Please make much more of this content. We will appreciate that. This show us how NOT to do it.
Let’s use a bit that’s one size too small and then knacker the bolt with an easy-out so we have to source another bolt to put it back together. All in, a great days work.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
How did I get the extractor out? Click here: ruclips.net/user/shortsULCPkBGtYCo?si=UI80PNyQxF7sBVfe
Thit shit syks
Just wanted to ask about it. Good job 👍
I haven't watched it but all you need to do is take some channel locks and rotate the extractor clockwise.
Mmmm
@@marlboroman71818😅
It's nice having the right tools. Also nice when you have plenty of room to work
💯
Yeah but there is no way that was the right size on the initial bit. Way too lose and floppy.
Also nice having the money for the tools 😂
@@jaalanodaicyr868was after he stripped it to be fair
I was changing my alternator in my 2007 Rav 4 yesterday. As a quick aside, yes Rav 4 is not that exciting, but the thing is 17 years old and aside from regular maintenance, I've only had to replace the alternator and the starter. Anyway, to detension the serpentine belt tensioner I had to use a 19mm ratchet which was fine, but the clearance was so limited. It took me 20 minutes to figure out the exact spot to get the ratchet in and there was really no room except just to detension. I'm an amateur mechanic by all measure and I think the thing I struggle with always is room to work.
The air hammer bit is called "pneumatic bolt breaker" for anyone trying to find it on Amazon. They are around $15 for one 3/8" drive and one 1/2" drive
I have the 3/8 version, works great.
Why is this better than a solid impact wrench? Genuinely curious. Would this be more so for people who don’t own an actual impact wrench? I’ve got a stubby and high torque, nothing will stop them unless it’s a bolt torqued to like 2k lbs lol
@@user-wd7bb6mx4j I have an air impact that frequently isn't enough power to break some bolts (I have a 30 year old truck and I live in the rust belt) so this is something that would be super useful for me more than a few times. If you never need it then yeah, don't get it. But I could use this pretty frequently, and it sure beats trying to get a 25” breaker bar into some spots.
@@user-wd7bb6mx4j you're basically adding torque to your impact wrench. At that point you heading beyond what's capable of an impact wrench but $15 dollar tool vs a hydraulic impact wrench I'd try the $15 tool first see if you get lucky.
its a completely different mechanism that has a few advantages. firstly the hammering will force the bit into the nut/bolt. secondly the hammering breaks up rust and corrosion in a more effective manner than an impact. lastly you can apply more controlled torque via a wrench. if you tried to use an impact in this situation you would likely strip the fastener worse or snap something.
When you got all the room in the world, sky is the limit.
True that.
yeah imagine trying to do this in a cramped engine bay
No, get an airplane for that. All the room in the world just tells your brain how much room you have to accumulate crap.
Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
- Archimedes
Lol, right?!
Easy part is getting the bolt out. The hard part is getting your easy out out of the bolt.
💯 Exactly what I just posted and now seeing your post afterwards. 🤨 😂
Just use a cut off wheel or a hammer
You guys ain't too smart. Right loosey
Just put it in a vice and turn it to the right.
REPLACE THE BOLT
As an aircraft mechanic I have to deal with stripped panel screws all the time. We call those things “screw knockers” around here.
What a coincidence/small world, my wife has something we call that same exact thing! 😉
oh yeah. we called them wood peckers. absolute life savers when dealing with coin slot screws. well until it punched a captive nut off anyway.
Screw buster is the best
Why not just call it what it is? It’s an air hammer
We call it a screw knocker or buster
God I always love the trade rule of "doesn't fit? *several loud smacks* now it does"
That’s right!
It's just an advanced form of percussive maintenance like banging on the side of your TV to get it to work! Violence DOES work for inanimate objects 😂
Sometimes the answer is finesse, most of the time the right answer is excessive hammering
When in doubt,hammer. Even more doubt is torch and angle grinder.
Accelerated percussive maintenance @@briandalpe4000
That’s aluminum brother, it responds nicely to a little heat…just don’t get it too hot or it’ll become brittle (or melt). I also work in the marine industry and I’ve had to remove hundreds of nuts, bolts, and fittings that were oxidized in place. It’s definitely not an easy job, so I tip my hat to you for sharing this tip for everyone. There’s a lot of people out there that don’t have a clue as to how to remove bolts or fittings like that….so your video is probably going to help a lot of folks.
Good job brother, have an amazing day!
That air hammer attachment is killer for manifold bolts
💯
Yeah I almost want to try working on a Ford exhaust manifold with one of these.
Sure, if the engine is on a stand in the middle off the garage. lol
Other than a Funny Car, I have never seen a vehicle that you are going to get that thing onto the exhaust manifold bolts while the engine is in the car.
You may get lucky on a few thru the wheel wells, but that's about it.
Love broken bolts... mmm..
O2, EGT AND NOX sensors too!
Always good to use the right size bit, too. Of course it'll round out with one that's clearly too small.
How has no one else seen that .. this is like one of those bad finger shaking tool sale videos from India 😂😂😂 it was clearly to small but for some reason your the only comment Ive found that caught it so far 🤦...
Save me the typing time, thanks
@@jesusischrist1527 no no it's even worse. The bolt is held with red loctite. If he had RTFM he'd know he needed to heat it.
@@ObservationofLimits What is RTFM ?
I didn't expect much when I saw the Pittsburgh ratchet.
That hing pin is installed with red loctite. If you heat it will come right out.
It wasn’t stuck in the threads, it was stuck in the hinge area. The loose threads are the only reason why the outdrive was able to move up and down.
This is the correct response... I worked as a boat mechanic for years and red loctite is used on those hingepins. Hear um up and they will come out
Plus air hammers and bolt extractors don't mix well. No matter how much faster it might be... if it doesn't break.
HAY THERE BUDDY SOMEONE'S GONNA CALL YA OUT ON THAT
OH HEAT WILL RUIN IT WEAKEN THA METAL
WAH WAH WAH 😪🤧
I'VE NEVER HAD ANYTHING FAIL AFTER USING HEAT ☝️BUT I NEVER BRING IT TO BRILLIANT RED IN THA
FIRST PLACE
@@arthurn9237 call all you want,but know a Mercuser Master Mechanic is going to answer. BTW you only heat to 400 degree Fahrenheit to melt loctite.
That's awesome! Yeah I just did a j series Honda Ridgeline and finally found out about the Lyle heavy mass socket and instead of wrenching on it with 6-ft extension poles and using propane torches and jacks under the breaker bars. Just put it on my impact and it was off in seconds. The right tool for a job definitely makes things so much better.
Heck yeah! Those crank bolts are legendary.
screwdriver head works great on the air hammer too.. Works for those body screws really well and the screw is often still good to use.
The joys of salt water and aluminum in close, constant proximity.
Yup
I been using a Pittsburgh half inch ratchet just like that one daily for over 6 years and I do mean hard work. That is the absolute best ratchet I have ever bought for under $100
Only problem I've ever had with Pittsburgh is the small screws come loose. I pull them all out and hit them with green slip fit loctite.
@@ObservationofLimits absolutely right! I only have one screw but it's outlived a brand new duralast with one screw holding the head together 🤣
@@ObservationofLimits absolutely right! I only have one screw but it's outlived a brand new duralast with one screw holding the head together 🤣
haha yep, I grabbed a kit from them and it puts in work easy and I dont mind as much if someone yanks it out of the truck.
@@grapeseed427 when I worked in a foundry, the majority of work was in places where a dropped tool was goodbye forever.
No way in hell I was bringing anything more expensive than Pittsburgh to work. Surprisingly, they have lasted well over a decade. Only a hand full of sockets, 7/16, 1/2, 13mm, 3/4 (all 12pt) have eventually worn down after tens of thousands of bolts and probably close to a million impacts. No splits or fails. Just enough wear that on abused bolts and nuts they were slipping.
The Pittsburgh swivel heads (green and grey handle) my 3/8 failed, the ratchet pawl got loose or something and quit engaging and no way to take those apart.
People rag on HF and I think they're just big mad they spent five figures on tool truck name brand and it's not any better. The only thing I would say I missed was on deep well sockets, having the shoulder be only a nut deep. But easy enough to grab those in specific sizes.
I worked as a bost and yacht mechanic for 6 years. Ive never had to us anything other than mercrusiers tool for those gimble ring hinge pins and a simple propane torch heating the bell housing from the inside to loosen the locktight they use on them.
Super easy. But I needed an air hammer, very long box wrench and a special stripped bolt extractor.
What is your point
''I just love tools that make easy work for even the toughest jobs, That was super easy!''
No self-respecting mechanic wouldn’t have these things
It was a game changer for me when I added an air hammer to my tool arsenal. Popping rivets, suspension work, shearing sheet metal, chiseling fasteners with broken/stripped heads off. Gotta get you one
That was actually a pretty genius idea in general, props to the ingenuity
I love male and female easy outs. When u have the right tools, shit goes so much easier.
Everything is easy when you have the right tools
You’re only as good as the tools you have.
@@b4dmblm705 in the middle of nowhere when you have too repair with minimum amount of tools,you have to be more then very good with what you have,lol
And know how to use them.... Without breaking the shit up
@@b4dmblm705and know how to use
Mechanics have my respect. They have all the creativity and patience to do the job.
No rust in aluminum it's called corrosion
Tire man here, I tell all the people that don't speak English that it's like rust but different. Ehh they always just nod and say yes to anything you say anyways...
It’s the same thing bud.
@@tristanphillips8937yeah pretty much. Rust is specifically the corrosion of iron into iron oxide. So all rust is corrosion but not all corrosion is rust. It's all the same thing though cause it's just a metal oxidizing so calling aluminum oxide rust is TECHNICALLY wrong but you're just being an ass if you're constantly correcting people on that outside of an English class.
@@tristanphillips8937 slightly different. Found this just now: “Aluminum doesn't rust because it doesn't contain iron or steel, but it can corrode when exposed to oxygen and water. This process is called oxidation and it creates a thin, hard layer of aluminum oxide that protects the metal from further corrosion. The aluminum oxide can appear as a white or gray coating that's similar to aluminum's natural color, making it hard to see.”
@@harrisp584 rust is oxidation and so is corrosion, both seize bolts and compromise strength of parts. And depending on the alloy of aluminum it can keep corroding, I get that aluminum oxidation usually protects the rest of the metal from further oxidation but really it’s the same thing and getting caught up in the technicality’s is kinda just dumb😂 both processes are caused by the same thing and do the same thing so it doesn’t matter. We call iron/steel rust corrosion too right? So why not call aluminum oxidation rust
Never seize on stainless going threw aluminum boys. Helps a ton on boats
I wish I had my grandfather's impact wrenches from the 1895.Yes, that's how old they were when I became across them but my cousin took them.I was out at sea.He died by the time I got home.They were gone. That was the day when you made a wrench out of a really heavy massive metal like bronze metal. You left us. You had a striking surface on one end. You had the nut, the nut on the other. You know the socket whatever and you just tapped it, you didn't wail. On it, you tapped it with a no more hammer. Or a dead blowhammer, just tap tap, tap tap. And it would turn any stock screw. It took some time sometime. You had the tap at 1015 times but it would do it. ISO missed those ranches.
I was a little kid when I first saw them. And it was the perfect thing to have a little kid do. You're just tapped to sign this log up until it turns.Let me know when it turns well.Let me know when it's all 5 of them are able to turn.Don't take them off.Just tap them so they're loose. Is best summers ever.
We Germans still have them! Both in open & boxed style. Only in large sizes, though, 50mm and up. They used to be used in heavy equipment machinery like steam engines etc.
I recently bought a 55mm-version for my maintenance team, because it was more ergonomical to use than our old & massive pneumatic impact driver for one specific job.
I got a few of those. They work. I got all the exhaust manifold nuts off of an old 3406B CAT. Not one snapped off stud. That’s rare and would never ever happen otherwise.
I fell like impact drill would’ve done this job all in one.
This bit is great lol. The amount of stuff that needs to be removed with repetitive hits and twisted is ever increasing in the rust belt. These work great on stuck screws too. Spray a penetrating oil on them and vibrate them, first tighten a smidge,then loosen. Keeps you from stripping the Phillips head.
I'm sure you're aware aluminum doesn't rust but instead corroded. Might want to inform the viewers who may not know of the correct term.
Rust is corrosion by a different name. If you wanna be all eggheaded about it, we should really always say “oxidation” rather than corrosion or rust.
@@F-Man while oxidation is correct, when describing various metals, the term rust is used for ferrous and corroding is non ferrous. Having worked on vehicles for over 40 years the terms are used in reference to specific parts and the decay of said parts. Frames and bodies rust while electrical such as wires and connectors corrode.
This is galvanic corrosion for stainless touching aluminum.
@@robertanderson7115 which also goes by bi-metal corrosion. Always an issue no matter what it's called.
@@timlad5 oxidation is oxidation. The term corrode and rust don’t matter. Oxidation is the same no matter what it just affects different metals and alloys differently. If you are going to be technically go all the way down to the beginning of a stupid ass argument.
It’s a badass tool as long as you replace all the bolts and pins.
Yup
why would want to reuse that bolt?
Shake your bolt, Do bolt shaker. Yeah thats its shake your bolt
I hate that this was the first thing I thought of
All I wanna do is zooma zoom zoom zoom!
Yeah, that’ll work
“Freezeoff” works like magic on all of the common Aircraft, Marine, and exotic aluminum alloys like cast Magnesium, or high end Titanium that’s prone to galling when fasteners, inserts, wrist pins, bushings, dowels, shoulder bolts, set screws, thread-serts, heli-coils, are driven, pressed, riveted or worked into place, It’s best to use a copper based anti-seize, or gasket sealer spray, in a highly corrosive mineral rich or marine environment, so they’re easier to remove.
Don’t get me wrong, you did an excellent job of making short work of a hassle.
I’ll have a look at freezeoff. Never heard of it, cheers!
Rebuilding automatic transmissions 48 years ,amazing how many people understand why they have to pay so much for the job done right ❤
Since this is out of stock you can take an air chisel and cut the end off, then weld a 2" extension on it. Not sure if the tool would last but it will definitely get the job done
My father has been a mechanic for 40 years. I've helped him alot. It's stuff like this that made me go "nope, fuck ALL that nonsense."
In aircraft maintenance we call that a screw knocker, air hammer fitting with a handle and a 1/4 hex receptacle. Works wonders on the rusted sheet metal screws on clapped out 1960s aircraft somehow still flying around
Careful turning and hammering. I've learned the hard way on aircraft.
Best is to hit it, press on it hard and turn. Don't turn it back, only go left..
Hinge pins are stainless and don’t rust, they are also have lock tight applied to them and torqued to over 100ft lbs.
I'm new to doing my own work, and I've leaned that having the right tools makes a huge difference...
Yes, very true.
When remaking it is good to use TefGel, a product that is used in the marine industry when making up dissimilar metals; it prevents galvanic corrosion.
All forms of impact tools are life savers… and conversely rather than using it to get something out, in certain situations where there’s a stubborn screw refusing to go in to something hard then an impact driver can make sure that screw gets reaaaal deep and never comes back out…
It really works good when you got snap-on tools in your professional mechanic it don't go that way when you're not a mechanic
This reminds me of a tool that was called a ' Woodpecker' used with a 4x rivet gun, at places that I used to work at, to remove stick screws... Very cool idea...
This tool also breaks loose cam bolts for alignments. Game changer.
you got a big smile out of me. I want that tool setup! I have an air hammer, I have wrenches. Extractor (set, probably) and adapter is what I want. Neat. I'd add a good dose of penetrant but still. Cool.
3 busted bolt heads on a 115 merc thermo cover was a challenge, no option but a welder.
Nice tools bro
Challenge is right.
Моё восхищение тем ,кто делает нашу жизнь легче.😊
I've used one of these to free up Duramax glow plugs that are very seized. Works great
Those (fine-thread) pins are held in with red loctite and torqued to 150-odd ft*lbs. Heat them up and you can crack them with a breaker bar.
Impacting a stainless fastener blind tapped into aluminum a few times will trash the female threads.
Anything "crusty" is the aluminum gimbal ring, not the (stainless) hinge pin.
One thing that I have learned from my first months on the job: ALWAYS use the proper tools! But also know how to adapt when you don't have what you need.
I've got a special screw driver that you hit with a hammer to make it turn. It helps prevent stripping the head of the bolt or screw. It's been very useful.
When using a. Allen, torx, or triple square it's import to make sure you seat it properly by giving it a few taps with a hammer before applying any torque to it. This situation can usually be avoided.
That is awesome. I seen somebody on RUclips use it and I bought it. It came with 3/8 and half inch adapter for an air hammer highly recommend.
First time I removed the hinge pins, with all of the correct tools, one came out perfectly, but one pulled the threads out of the bell housing. Almost lost my mind as the boat and lower unit were in 'garage queen' condition. And, like everything else when doing boat maintenance, it happened a few days before boat vacation.
Had to install a Time Sert to fix which was simple, but cost a lot to get in fast.
Nice work! Gotta love boats.
Everyone needs an extractor set. Stripped out bolt on my Harley shift linkage. To top it off the linkage stripped, so I had to drive back home shifting by turning my foot into the linkage, I kept it in second and stayed on the streets on the way home.
That sucks
@@ToolDemos You are not wrong. It was a struggle for a few miles and stopping at red lights really had me. But the Harley had enough torque to get out of it, I feel bad for the clutch though.
My heart sunk as soon as I saw the "tool you're supposed to use" swiftly followed by the sound of the day getting _thiiiiis_ much longer.
Pulls out the cleanest looking fastener Ive ever seen without a spec of rust on the threads.
Hinge pins are made of stainless steel. The gimble ring and gimbal housing are made of aluminum. The aluminum suffers from galvanic corrosion in this pairing of dissimilar metals.
This totally my dad right here! Ill have worked on the same spot for an hour and ill give up and call my pops.
He'll come over and in between a cigarette he'll have that bolt out and the new part halfway in already!
Freaking dads i tell ya. 😅❤
Sounds like a great dad.
That is the coolest tool I've seen in many years! Shack & Break, love it!
Wish I had this in the early 90’s when we were working on VW cv joints. They were notorious for stripping.
Usually on Merc Alpha outdrive bellhousing pins. They are locktited on the pin threads so a bit of heat is needed.
Those are the best extractor bits there are, hands down.
I've never stripped out one of those gimbal pins... If you prep it correctly and use lots of heat they aren't that bad. Even it it was stripped out and you were doing it this way you should still be using heat. Saltwater boat mechanic's two best tools are a torch and a sledge hammer!
Well, going from Pittsburgh tools ⚒️ to Snap-On definitely helped a heck of a lot. 😊
Yeah, I am a bit of a tool snob. Lol
Хорошо когда есть у тебя дед , который научил простукивать закисшую резьбу 😂
Super easy? Easy would've been using the correct bit. The stainless pin/fastener wasn't crusty. I had to remove some of these the other day. After none of the triple square bits fit properly I did a little research and found that it's 1/2" and a 1/2" hex bit was recommended..fit perfect. Work smarter, not harder.
Wonder if they knew "We're gonna need a bigger boat" would be used and adapted for so many different situations to the point I bet many people who use it don't know where it came from
Air hammers are usefull for so many things. Love those sockets at a 1/4 price of strap-on . I have two sets over 20+ year's without issue
Funny part is there is no rust in that area. That’s a stainless steel bolt going into aluminum. Two different metals in some salt water and you get yourself corrosion. That bolt was corroded in there not rusted. Trust me I’m a carpenter
Я свято надеялся, что болты под ужасный разъём spline используют только в VAG...
Очень жаль, что я ошибался...
А экстракторы да - полезная вещица))
Love working when there is plenty of room, it is when you barely have room for your hand and a wrench, that's when the good times roll... LOL
Only takes me one qt of blood, eleventeen beer. And two break ups. Lol
Add a pay checks worth of tools for thst one brocken bolt.
@@henrytoledo4103 all tools cost two paychecks
That’s one of my favorite tools in my box. It’s a life saver.
Thats the most genius use of an air hammer ive ever seen
I liked how he used the harbor freight tools to break it and used the snap on tools to get it out
101 on next install will help in it coming out easier. Regular servicing required in salty environments 😮
Great way to ruin the extractor, before we even talk about burying it. That style extractor is NOT supposed to be struck. You'll just roll/strip the vanes.
Only extractors with much shallower 10-20° twist are meant to be hammered
Thanks for that tip. The link shows sold out at Walmart. Ordered it at Amz for cheaper. Thanks for the reference nonetheless
Enjoy!
As a mechanic, I have never thought of this before. That's cool
Good job 👍. Usually people continue to use incorrect tools and make a complete dog’s dinner of it.
Very true!
Gimme the bolt shaker yeah gimme the bolt shaker. Shake your bolt for us dude, yeah, that'll do, thats a bolt right there
🎵🎵🤣
The upgrade to air tools over hand tools saved my knuckles some harassment
I’ve had one of these for probably a decade, but I’ve never had to use it yet, it looks like it would work really well.
Those work good for glow plugs and brake bleeders too, just turn your air supply down first
Perfect example of not only having the right tool for the job but also only using the tool when necessary.. ive replaced 3 lug nuts on my car in 2 years so far cuz most tire shop idiots just go full send with the air hammer. My lugnuts are specced for 80 foot pounds of torque and theres been times they put it in the 200lb range with those air hammers to be lazy 💀
Rust is corrosion of steel, colored brown or red.
White powder is corrosion of aluminum.
Corrosion is corrosion, regardless of aluminum or steel, and its colors.
Non-twisty impact on an easy out? Now thats an actually good idea
It's a stainless pivot pin and the housing is aluminum, so where do you get rust? It's aluminum oxidation and possibly some electrolysis? Thread lock is also used on threading to prevent loosening under engine power.
A bad artisan blames the tool. But a good artisan uses the right tool for the job
Super easy, the thread is completely destroyed - really a good job. Please make much more of this content. We will appreciate that. This show us how NOT to do it.
Thanks for showing me a new way to use my extractor nd shake and brake bit. Cheers bud 🍻
You bet
Watch out, GM is gonna start using these to mount the water pump behind the timing cover and in the water galery to make sure you suffer.
Nooooooo!
Let’s use a bit that’s one size too small and then knacker the bolt with an easy-out so we have to source another bolt to put it back together. All in, a great days work.
If there's one thing I love more than expanding my tool collection, it's a resource to introduce me to all the worthwhile ones.
I love the shake and brake. I bought it as well lol.
You know its a bad day when you got to take out the welder
Hinge pins are red thread locked. You need to heat up the bell housing first.
This gave me that warm fuzzy feeling inside
🥲🥹
Interesting it didn't look rusty at all
As a former aircraft mechanic,, that is not rust , it is called corrosion.