Показан очень сложный случай - обломок свободно люфтит. Вот, если, обломок чуть прихватило коррозией, или на герметике - тогда, вообще, раз плюнуть!)))
Application of HELICOIL and punch-walking are two old-school crafts that were taught back in the early part of the industrial revolution. Schools used to teach these principles but technology has all but buried these common since crafts. My dad raised me in a machine shop, so He taught me these principles. I learned about HELICOIL application at my railroad career, and it's SO GOOD to watch it demonstrated on a free-to-watch video to the world! THANK YOU for your video !!!
Helicoils are great, but have limits.. Bolts usually have more linear tensile strength than the material they are threaded into. Helicoils are also stronger than most materials into which they are installed. If the surface area of the replacement bolt's threads in the material is not at least that of the original, the shear after applying specified torque can overstress the material and the helicoil will be torn out.
I've never encountered a broken bolt stud that could be unscrewed that easily. Usually the studs break because they are stuck so tight that the force required to loosen them is greater than the strength of the bolt.
I think this bolt clearly snapped under use, and not while trying to disassemble it, if it was corroded stuck, this method wouldnt work. Unless he heated it up and broke the bond, and got enough corrosion solvent in there over time then this could work, but then it would be easier to just weld the bolt, as that adds both heat, and a way to turn the bolt again..
and one more thing, he used tap and blow pressured air on scrapped aluminum, not a good way of doing it in that situation, those scaps might have entered the engine even with the cloth there
It depends on why it broke. If it broke due to shear stress then it is usually loose like this. If it was cross-threaded or over torqued then it usually has damaged the threads and has to be drilled out.
Это просто фантастика. Жалко что такие заломыши встречаются в одном случае из ста из за того что это был говноболт. Обычно это прикипевшие, приржавевшие или обломанные из за того что не по резьбе закручивались и вот там всë это не работает. А вот удаление такого заломыша как в видео я бы и снимать постеснялся.
@@АлександрГреб-ф4п ну верить или нет это твоë личное дело. Так и живи считая что в России все в говне живут, тогда глядишь своë говно меньше вонять будет. Удачи тебе, дружище.
I normally use a center punch to: A. Shock the broken bolt, THEN: B. use a left hand drill bit and SLOWLY drill at the center punch mark INTO the broken bolt. MOST of the time, the bit will bind into the broken part and back it out for you. If not, then you can use an extractor in the hole made by left hand drill!. TIP: A bit of grease will catch the shavings and keep them out of the engine.
Bolts usually break because they're seized in. This bolt came out much too easily. The thread was even loose. This isn't going to be the case, most of the time.
@@johnsolenski140 The bolt in the video didn't even need a drill. All it required was a punch to extract it. Hardly much of a challenge. The first half of the video about fitting a helicoil, wasn't even mentioned in the video title.
In my forty plus years as a service engineer I would say I have removed maybe 50% of bolts like that but normally they are to tight to knock around, if you have a bolt that is snapped a good way down the hole a good trick is if you have a Lathe get a socket cap screw the same size and thread as the snapped one put it in the Lathe and drill a hole through the centre then put it in the hole were the snapped bolt is then using the same drill bit drill through the snapped bolt it allows you to get the dead centre you can then put penetrating oil down the hole and use an easy out. I always keep a selection of different size bolts ready to use works a treat.
Or you can skip all that nonsense with the lathe and just eyeball it and use a center punch to make an indent so the bit doesn't skip out and drill a hole for the easy out.
I worked at Criterion Machine Works in Costa Mesa, California for 30 years. We manufactured Boring head and cutting tools. Fifty % of our work was Job Shop work. the last 12 years I was Chief of Manufacturing Operations (Production Manager). I used this same technique many times,thank you for your reply.
Китайские болты ломает при стягивании . их просто отрывает. Эта процедура работает. Конечно лучше просверлить левым сверлом небольшое отверстие и забить в него шестигранник
He covered the chain so it couldn't LINK up with other parts and laugh at him if he messes up, that might start a CHAIN reaction😆. Yeah I don't know why you would only cover something then blow metal fragments all over.😵
@@Mondeo217 not true. the bolt is steel the block is alluminum. the steel welding will not stick to the alluminum. ive built up when the broken bolt was 1/2 inch inside with mig welding. then weld a nut on and take it out. somtimes the nut breaks off 2 or 3 times but keep trying because heat is your friend and every time you try your putting more and more heat into it.
To install a helicoil you have to first oversize the hole , thread and then put in helicoil. for the second bolt only one in a thousand will come out this way. A left hand drill bit will remove some and in the other case a small drill and an easyout will remove the bolt. If not drill out the hole with a slightly larger bit and either tap to larger size or tap and install helicoil.
Hello, Thank you for the video. It was very informative concerning one method of removing a broken bolt and in this case in an aluminum casting. Using a punch to screw a set of threads on out the way they were going. I used to be a machinist in a Ford road truck dealership and removing broken bolts was part of my purpose and I did remove hundreds of them. I just want to bring up a couple of points. Point 1: It is seldom you get a broken bolt that will come out like you have just shown in this video. Most of the time, the reason the bolts are broken is because the threads are stuck in the threads the bolt is put into. Removing any broken bolt, I used to always try to use the method you have demonstrated first as it is the easiest. When I have tried what you have shown and the threads are stuck where they will not screw out, I try taping strait down on the broken bolt to see if that will break the threads free. If not, I will put some heat on the broken bolt and going forward, there are more invasive ways to do that will come next. Point 2: In the video, you attempted to surround the place where you were working with a cloth to keep from getting savings down in the head which will ultimately get into the crank case. You did good putting the rag around where you were working. But, the next thing you did was take an air line to clear the trips away where you could see. Well when you used the forced air, you just blew all those shavings and chips right up under the rag. Not Good.
a 50 cc engine not the same as a 350 F150 eh get a drill and left turn cutting edge be done . as for tapping I use duct tape and a good rag . keep the chips out . seen the same thing there goes the crank bearings lol
Exactly what you said, my experience is the same as you described, and also to keep shawings under control I use grese besides rag precut shape to fit snugly around the place which needs attention. This is pretty much untipical. Also lefthand drill bit is of great help.
धन्यवाद श्रीमान जी। आपका बहुत बहुत बहुत बहुत बहुत धन्यवाद। मेरी बाईक के चैम्बर में बोल्ड टूट गया था। मैं बहुत परेशान था। आपकी साहायता से मैने बोल्ड निकाल दिया।।धन्यवाद श्रीमान जी
Great trick that almost never works. Only when the screw is completely free of contamination and corrosion and is not deformed at all. A little galvanic corrosion or rust or oil sludge and it doesn't work. If the bolt is cross threaded it doesn't work. If it is bent it doesn't work. If it breaks in tension, the top few threads are usually deformed and it doesn't work. If the screw is stainless it doesn't work. If a steel screw is threaded into aluminum, it doesn't work. I could go on. If you have actually tried this trick, then you have probably resorted to drilling and using an ez-out or welding a stud, or drilling and re-threading to a larger size, or drilling and heli-coiling, which is what you see him doing on the first of the two holes. Probably because the simple trick didn't work and he resorted to using a drill and drill guide to remove the bulk of the bolt, then a dental pick to try to pick out the remaining pieces, then ran a tap into the hole, found out that the thread was shot anyway, then bored it over, tapped it, and put a heli-coil it. Note that you can see the stub of the broken screw in the first hole before he starts tapping, then there is a cut at 1:47, and turns the tap back out and the screw piece is gone. These RUclips tricks and "Next level process" videos always make anyone who has actually worked in a machine shop or repair shop roll their eyes back in their head. When you see "life hack." "next level," or "simple trick" in a youtube video, it should set off your bullsh!t detector.
I have used the hammer & punch or chisel method many times. I was born before easy-outs were invented & I couldn't afford a welder. What I have is patience and tenacity.
@@savage22bolt32 Yeah, I’d agree. This is all you need a lot of the time, and is the most basic method so you need to learn it first! On teaching it to apprentices I’ve often heard “ah, would never have thought of that!”
RIGHT ! Jeremy Hicks is 100% right. When the trouble is a broken screw...OK, sometimes it works, provided you got enough room for the maneuver. If the hole is too deep it won't be possible. In that case you must use a carbide drill and make a hole right in the broken screw. But when you got a broken tap...which usually is stuck, matters become more complicated. You get the job done if you have a tap extractor. Not a cheap chinese stuff as it will brake easily. The Walton stuff may be the right option.
Many years ago I had a stud break just below the surface of an alloy engine block. The guy who saved my bacon took a short length of mild steel flat bar, drilled a hole near one end, slightly smaller than the stud diameter. He then TIG welded the bar to the broken stud through the hole. He then just unscrewed it, the heat of the weld also helped free up the corrosion which caused the breakage in the first place. My broke stud was held completely tight... the method shown here would never have worked.
I generally go with the concept that if it is liquid it cannot be stuck. 🙂 Seriously, anybody who is working with steel bolts in aluminum castings should be applying an anti seize when assembling the parts. It will also help to prevent stripout when tightening the bolts.
Antiseize is a better lubricant than oil and it acts as a sacrificial material under corrosion conditions. Specified torque is based on a specified lubricant and the friction experienced when using it. Using antiseize instead of oil makes it EASIER to strip the threaded hole when tightening. Even if you understand that, it's not possible to know the CORRECTED torque to apply. If antiseize is used for protection, it should NOT be on the working threads, but those at the top of the hole where the bolt is exposed to moisture. (BTW, The correct torque applied to polished stainless helicoil wire threads is also less that applied to a base material with cut threads.)
@@psdaengr911 Please don't lecture to a licensed engineer who has spent a lifetime with threaded fasteners in life critical applications and the interactions between dissimilar metals.
@@paulkurilecz4209 Hey two questions since you have a lot of experience. Currently cleaning/fixing up a 1988 Yamaha Moto 4 350 ATV. Over the years working on random stuff I always searched for good ways to remove rust from fasteners but ended up always doing it by hand with a wire brush mostly. I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner last week and some Evaporust and it has worked great so far with cleaning up nuts and bolts and small parts. As far as protecting them afterwards since the zinc coating is gone what do you recommend? Searched around a lot and it seems there is nothign that really holds up good besides coating them again but I really don't wanna invest the money nor do I have the space to set up a meth lab like zinc plating operation lol. For now the bolts I've cleaned are in a ziplock bag coated in WD-40 until I need them but really wanna try something else. Second question. Last night I was working on it and tried to remove to M6 screws holding the exhaust heat shield on. It was one of those "I know I should let these soak a few different nights before attempting it" moments but I tried anyways and sure enough snapped them. The broken bolts are sticking out about a 16th of an inch. What is a good extractor set that won't break the bank? I don't have a welder so that option is out. I was gonna drill a hole with a reverse drill bit and if that doesn't catch the bolt then I can try the extractor. Just don't know which set to go with. Thanks
@@z1522 Also a good idea is to use stainless steel fasteners with aluminum. When using carbon steel fasteners, if there is any moisture present the aluminum will be anodic to the steel and be wasted away.
Thank you for sharing. “One size” for this problem doesn’t always fit, but l like it when people share what worked cause sometimes it works and other times it doesn’t (and, you try something else).
Господи я на одном дыхании смотрел эту очень сложную операцию по извлечению сломанного болтика. Хотя мне показалось когда он дул воздухом тот болтик сам уже начал выкручиваться. Одним словом мастер своего дела
This solution is effective only in one case: when the bolt breaks off while being tightened, and when it does not rest against the bottom, after which, usually, the thread “unwinds” and changes pitch if the tightening was carried out without observing the torque. therefore, you first need to make sure that the thread has not “unraveled” on the broken edge. otherwise, when turned out, not only the pitch, but also the alignment will be destroyed on the upper remainder of the thread.
Simplest way is not to break the bolt in the first place. If it feels tight, apply a little heat to the bolt head only. Cool with air line and repeat as many times as necessary. It usually works after the first couple of applications.
I'm assuming the bolt broke when tightening because no corrosion is present. Nice presentation on Heli-coil prep and installation. This person is well-experienced on proper tapping procedures of aluminum, backing to break chips and clearing chips before they score the new threads. Nice video!
Thanks for the tip. I'm no longer a mechanic and I used to do the same for hummv cylinder heads. But it doesn't work most of the time. I would use left handed drill bits too.
Мне больше всего понравилось выкручивание болта пальцем! Ну и, конечно, надо было в двигло ещё пару щепоток стружки и какого-нибудь мусора насыпать. Для надёжности!
Вот это по нашему. Закрыть (местами) тряпочкой и ...Раздуть( а не пропылесосить) всю стружку по всей "башке" (гбц). Лайк за солидарность в технологиях "срача". (Шутка , хотя...)
@@odinochka42 Нам бы славянам немецкой чистоты и точности .... Смотря этот ролик, сам себя поймал на мысли что и я, такой же" чисто плотный" моторист.Ведь сам уже в дв.ЕР -6 (BMW) ронял сухари клапанов в канал цепи привода ГРМ . Потом сутки искал, пока не нашел .
@@odinochka42 На эту тему есть Байка. При встрече в Тегеране Сталин задал вопрос Черчиллю : "Что Вы думаете о Русских воинах? " Ответ Черчилля был : Вы ,русские - единственная НАЦИЯ ,которая упорно создаёт себе проблемы и... с не меньшим упорством их решает."
Now do one that is seized in there. That broke bolt could have been spun out with a left drive bit or a button magnet. What was the Heli-coil about???? This was easy peazy~!!
You are creativity It's true I am a new subscriber to your channel and this is my first comment in this video that deserves all the appreciation I wish you success and lasting success, God willing and his blessings Your friend Hani from Egypt from Cairo
I've used the same trick myself. I used a masonry nail as a punch with it being very thin, sharp and very hard. Take your time and care don't mash the hole or the end of the broken off bolt up.
Hi, I have an 8 in wide drawer in my tool box that is dedicated to small, pointy tools like this . Chissels of all kinds of faces and many more dedicated to "Hey, get Dean, he can get them out, LOL I'm retired now but on occasion the logging shop still will call every once in a while to help them out. Hmmm, Retirement sucks, LOL.
@@raiderman28 Hi, True but at one time I didn't know how and was taught by a fella from Germany how to do it and I love to teach others how to do it. Many can't and I am ok with that. We can't all do it all but There are still many things for me to learn yet. I am just 70 now so there is lots of time yet EHH. Take care my friend. . . . Dean. . . . .
Good idea, but left handed bits aren't very common. They're kind of hard to find, and I imagine they cost more than their regular right hand counterparts. Too, I'm not sure I could get used to sharpening a lefty. It would take some getting used to, for sure.
I don't recall ever breaking a lefty bit. I suggest a quality bit (cobalt, carbide, titanium coated at the least. Gentle pressure, low rpm, DRY, Very slight off center angle of attack. You want the bit to Bite and reverse the fastener. Screw extractior comes next if need be Good Luck!
Очень интересно.Сверху закрыли тряпкой,чтобы струшка не попадала на на детали при нарезки резьбы.Но стружка то падает вниз.Ребята-будьте внимательны,особенно,когда продуваете сжатым воздухом остатки стружки.Рекомендую вам,просмотреть ваше видио самим,как это всё вы делали.
Парень с длинными ногтями - ты лучший! Такой херни я давно не видел. Ключём ты болт обломал, а кёрнышком так спокойненько, не напрягаясь - тук, тук - и открутил! Молодец!
Over the years 55 + in engineering within a brewery. I have several times and it worked for me. Usually when the bolt had had a thick washer or spiring washer beneath the head. But cannot speak as when heavy handed fools employed a swing bar or a length of pipe over a spanner. Know your limits and have some idea to stretch and yield elasticity of a pin. But in the end experience says more than haste.
В бытность работы мотористом частенько отламывал болты (особенно у зил-120?) на головке блока , но ни разу при отломе, отверстия там не было, чтобы нарезать резьбу. И приходилось сверлить, потом забивать что-то твёрдое и выкручивать Ну или же иметь сверло, может метчик левосторонние.
Попробуй постучи кернышком по обломку шпильки в выпускном коллекторе двигателя, или по обломку свечи в свечном колодце. Экстракторы разного диаметра не дураки придумали!))
@@ТретьяСтолица-м2о Может мы о разном говорим? Экстрактор, это такой винт с левой конической резьбой. Сверлишь в обломке отверстие нужного диаметра, ввинчиваешь в него экстрактор и ....
I see this video was just over eight minutes long. Good job tho . But if you have never tried left hand drill bits you will be greatly surprised by trying them. This would have took less time to do than it took to put the bit in the drill . But you did great your way also . Thanks
One of the best ways to remove a broken stud is with a left hand drill bit. More often than not the drill bit grabs the stud and backs it right out. I have to do this almost every day taking stainless screws/bolts out of either aluminum or stainless holes and sometimes cast iron.
Exactly. Plus this video seems unreal. Left over broken bolts are rarely this loose in the thread. I saw an awesome method to center the bore exactly in such case: use a door hinge centering drill 'bit' to start the whole. Then you can use the left hand drill and easy out if necessary.
I've been working as a mechanic fifty years and breaking a bolt by over tightening often leaves the broken piece loose enough to work out this way. The hardest to remove are almost exclusively broken because of corrosion locking the threads to the aluminum. I would agree, using every possible advantage is the best way to least impact the strength of the aluminum threads.
The best way is to take out the whole piece and drill the broken bits with smaller drill bit on a perfectly horizontal surface. The way it is done here, there may be problems later when fasterning back the machine as the screw trade has been damaged. The method show here not in line with precision engineering.
What good does it do to cover the top of the tapped when the cuttings are are falling down into the engine? oh, I see the air will blow everything further in.
O truque, afinal, não é tão simples como parece, caso o parafuso esteja bem firme dentro da rosca. E geralmente parafusos quebram justamente por estarem presos na rosca. A melhor maneira é usar um punção e marcar o centro do parafuso e depois ir furando com um broca fina (de widea, melhor) e enfim usar um extrator se necessário, já que às vezes dando reverso na furadeira (bem devagar) a broca "engancha" no parafusos e este sai numa boa.
What caused that steel bolt to break in an aluminum head? Too much tension (tightening) should have stripped the aluminum threads, like in the first hole. It didn't break by hitting the hole bottom before the seating of its head, and it didn't break because the threads were seized. These look like valve-cover bolts, only. If you broke the bolt and you know why ard how you broke it, you might avoid the same mistake and not have to resort to removal techniques. The "trick" shown here is a good one to keep in your mental "tool box" for many situations, however as the comments show, the video otherwise mostly shows many mechanic's flaws. It sure got a lot of views and comments though! Perhaps the best illustrated "trick" is how to write an alluring U-tube title. It addressed a VERY common problem mechanics face, often from their own clumsiness, and promises a "simple" solution. The next great U-tube "Gotcha" title: "How to lose weight by eating all you want while only sitting and watching U-tubes!"
Обломок *болта* - далеко не то же, что обломок *шпильки:* в торце первого можно просверлить 2 отверстия под плоскую отвёртку с вырезом - а в торце второго придётся сверлить *осевое* отверстие для экстрактора (негодного метчика со спиленными на косой клин зубьями).
@@gewelryamator4252, напильники делают из ОЧЕНЬ хрупкой стали - У13А, которая ПЛОХО работает на скручивание: из трёхгранных напильников делали *шаберы...*
@@gewelryamator4252ну конечно. Я работал в АТП, в иструменталке был комплект вывертышей, однажды я взял такой со стола перепутав с обычным метчиком и так узнал об их существовании)
Sheesh, that thing is so loose that all you'd need is a small magnet stuck in the hole and you could spin it out with that! If not that a dab of glue on a Q-Tip. LOL
Some people add a little bit of bearing grease in the shred collecting portion of the re-threading tool. This way it lubricates the cut and collects the material keeping it in that gap rather than it slipping between or rubbing into the threads.
Been there, done that ! One of the best skills I was fortunate enough to learn, as a young machine builder ! I would first blow out the hole, then spray aerosol lubricant in, then begin to use the punch ! Then blow it out, and introduce more lubricant ! Great if you don't have a Tap Burner, aka : Electrical Discharge Machine. (EDM) Funny, like so many other things, I would have guessed this was a lost Art ! 👍😉
Dokładnie tak było , naprawdę urwane śruby nie idą tak łatwo a często bywa tak że narzędzia do wykręcania urwanych śrub umieją się złamać , a wtedy to jest już dupa bo urwane narzędzie w śrubie jest z tak twardej stali że nie idzie tego ponownie nawiercić. Sprężyny do naprawy gwintów też są gówno warte , jeśli ktoś by chciał tak naprawić urwany gwint świecy to jest to strata czasu , chyba że naprawa była by wykonana na zasadzie : "gwarancja do bramy i się nie znamy".
Um parafuso quebra por excesso de força no aperto. Este está completamente solto. Quando quebra e trava, o melhor ( se possível) é furar o centro com uma broca fina, ir alargando o furo com outras brocas e por fim usar um macho de rosca esquerda.
Способ не эффективен на затянутых и на заржавевших болотах. Заржавевших болты даже не всегда получается высверлить или открутить специальными приспособами. А так да, тоже бывает откручиваю обломаные болты и шпильки таким способом 👍
WHEN THE BROKEN BOLT IS THAT LOOSE- - - - USE A "LEFT HANDED TURNING DRILL BIT ! IF NOT PERFECTLY CENTERED-- - - - USE A BOLT DIAMETER BUSHING WITH THE LEFT HANDED BIT. THEN WHEN CENTER DRILLED, USE A LEFT HANDED E-Z OUT.
Когтями этого мастера можно выкрутить любой болт 🐾🤙🏻🔥
По деревьям можно лазить!!!!
И нельзя совать в вагину !
Росоямаха
@@ОлегХлапов-ж8ы древолаз😁
Баба вроде это
Показан очень сложный случай - обломок свободно люфтит.
Вот, если, обломок чуть прихватило коррозией, или на герметике - тогда, вообще, раз плюнуть!)))
Он сам его наверно закрутил обломок и героически извлек
@@romankapustinKa похоже он ради пиара выебнулся, ну бля не $ука он?
@@sergeybondarenko4733 да ещё какая
Как вообще умудрились сломать свободно болтающийся в резьбе болт? 😂😂😂😂 Научите меня!
Это видео про маникюр)
Application of HELICOIL and punch-walking are two old-school crafts that were taught back in the early part of the industrial revolution. Schools used to teach these principles but technology has all but buried these common since crafts. My dad raised me in a machine shop, so He taught me these principles. I learned about HELICOIL application at my railroad career, and it's SO GOOD to watch it demonstrated on a free-to-watch video to the world! THANK YOU for your video !!!
Helicoils are great, but have limits.. Bolts usually have more linear tensile strength than the material they are threaded into. Helicoils are also stronger than most materials into which they are installed. If the surface area of the replacement bolt's threads in the material is not at least that of the original, the shear after applying specified torque can overstress the material and the helicoil will be torn out.
So true
Стакими ногтями его можно было просто ногтем выковырять)))
😄
Это пиздец, там компостная куча под ногтями, отвратительно, несмог смотреть
Америку явно не открыл. Я в детстве так делал.
Алекс нельзя, а вдруг резьбу испортишь.
Эт точно
I've never encountered a broken bolt stud that could be unscrewed that easily. Usually the studs break because they are stuck so tight that the force required to loosen them is greater than the strength of the bolt.
I think this bolt clearly snapped under use, and not while trying to disassemble it, if it was corroded stuck, this method wouldnt work. Unless he heated it up and broke the bond, and got enough corrosion solvent in there over time then this could work, but then it would be easier to just weld the bolt, as that adds both heat, and a way to turn the bolt again..
Probably from stud stretch. Then snap
Or galled
and one more thing,
he used tap and blow pressured air on scrapped aluminum,
not a good way of doing it in that situation,
those scaps might have entered the engine even with the cloth there
This is almost impossible
Те,кто сталкивался с подобной проблемой,знают,что этот простой трюк работает крайне редко .
Meist sitzen die Schraubenstümpfe bombenfest.
It depends on why it broke. If it broke due to shear stress then it is usually loose like this. If it was cross-threaded or over torqued then it usually has damaged the threads and has to be drilled out.
I either drill and use a easy out or use my welder with a long bolt and fuse it to the broke off bolt.
@@jonnelson9760 You have been there more than once eh, LOL.
Всю стружку сдул куда-то в кишки механизма. Гениально...
Это просто фантастика. Жалко что такие заломыши встречаются в одном случае из ста из за того что это был говноболт. Обычно это прикипевшие, приржавевшие или обломанные из за того что не по резьбе закручивались и вот там всë это не работает. А вот удаление такого заломыша как в видео я бы и снимать постеснялся.
Первый обломок испарился после прохода метчика а второй это вообще смех ,в жизни такое бывает один раз из 100.
Вы правы, дать бы ему выхлопной коллектор со сломанной шпилькой, как бы он её выкрутил.
@@НиколайЛитвинов-и1х метчиком прогналбы ))
Счастливая бредятина .
@@АлександрГреб-ф4п ну верить или нет это твоë личное дело. Так и живи считая что в России все в говне живут, тогда глядишь своë говно меньше вонять будет. Удачи тебе, дружище.
I normally use a center punch to: A. Shock the broken bolt, THEN: B. use a left hand drill bit and SLOWLY drill at the center punch mark INTO the broken bolt. MOST of the time, the bit will bind into the broken part and back it out for you. If not, then you can use an extractor in the hole made by left hand drill!. TIP: A bit of grease will catch the shavings and keep them out of the engine.
That is the best and surest way to have the job done.
Bolts usually break because they're seized in. This bolt came out much too easily. The thread was even loose. This isn't going to be the case, most of the time.
Agree best fix for the bolt shown in video. I would add to leave the drill bit loosely chucked as to not break the drill off in the broken bolt.
@@johnsolenski140 The bolt in the video didn't even need a drill. All it required was a punch to extract it. Hardly much of a challenge. The first half of the video about fitting a helicoil, wasn't even mentioned in the video title.
Повесил тряпку, чтобы стружка не попала, а потом сжатым воздухом продул... Зачем тряпку клал?..
In my forty plus years as a service engineer I would say I have removed maybe 50% of bolts like that but normally they are to tight to knock around, if you have a bolt that is snapped a good way down the hole a good trick is if you have a Lathe get a socket cap screw the same size and thread as the snapped one put it in the Lathe and drill a hole through the centre then put it in the hole were the snapped bolt is then using the same drill bit drill through the snapped bolt it allows you to get the dead centre you can then put penetrating oil down the hole and use an easy out. I always keep a selection of different size bolts ready to use works a treat.
Great tip, thanks!
Or you can skip all that nonsense with the lathe and just eyeball it and use a center punch to make an indent so the bit doesn't skip out and drill a hole for the easy out.
If you're lucky and it's loose, you can often back it out with a pencil eraser.
TOO tight...not to...👍😁
I worked at Criterion Machine Works in Costa Mesa, California for 30 years. We manufactured Boring head and cutting tools. Fifty % of our work was Job Shop work. the last 12 years I was Chief of Manufacturing Operations (Production Manager). I used this same technique many times,thank you for your reply.
Если заломыш не прикипел и так свободно болтается, он бы не сломался. Ролик - "сказка"
Китайские болты ломает при стягивании . их просто отрывает. Эта процедура работает. Конечно лучше просверлить левым сверлом небольшое отверстие и забить в него шестигранник
Всё ещё проще в плане шестигранника. Можно выкрутить экстрактором.😉👍@@ЕвгенийВеселов-й9ц
@@ЕвгенийВеселов-й9ц ага и резьбу замнешь заодно.Для этого есть экстрактор.
Loved how he covered the chain with the rag and then blew everything in deeper with the air
He covered the chain so it couldn't LINK up with other parts and laugh at him if he messes up, that might start a CHAIN reaction😆. Yeah I don't know why you would only cover something then blow metal fragments all over.😵
Ногти подстриги!
@@jeffharper7579 Thought the same. Made me smile.
@@loubakker5000 già... i frammenti di metallo vanno sempre in giù... 😂 😂
suction please nurse
I'm glad you let all the filings fall into motor. That will really help with the longevity and compression ! 😃
Un professionnel ne fait jamais cette erreur
Came here to learn something, what I learned is how to contain swarf within the engine using a rag and a airline 😵💫 top mechanic !
SUCKS TO BE A SHOP/VACUME RAT?
Backwards turn drill bit will often spin those right out. The punch method I've used often as well.
Здесь смысл не в извлечении "заломыша", а в заголовке ролика.
Эффективная замануха - наше ВСЁ!!!
Сверление и сварка уже выглядят проще и доступнее, чем способы на видео.
кувалда и болгарка, плять!
@@brothershooryn_a2r вот именно, как хрен в рукомойнике
Слишком глубоко болт обломался, сваркой не дотянуться.
Percage et extracteur avec un pas a gauche👍
@@Mondeo217 not true. the bolt is steel the block is alluminum. the steel welding will not stick to the alluminum. ive built up when the broken bolt was 1/2 inch inside with mig welding. then weld a nut on and take it out. somtimes the nut breaks off 2 or 3 times but keep trying because heat is your friend and every time you try your putting more and more heat into it.
To install a helicoil you have to first oversize the hole , thread and then put in helicoil. for the second bolt only one in a thousand will come out this way. A left hand drill bit will remove some and in the other case a small drill and an easyout will remove the bolt. If not drill out the hole with a slightly larger bit and either tap to larger size or tap and install helicoil.
Болтающийся остаток болта можно было выкрутить выверткой левой и не долбить полчаса. А с такими когтями можно было прям ими как отвёрткой крутить 😂
При нарезании резъбы в алюминии или их сплавах используют обыкновенное мыло ,а не масло как по стали.Проверено....
Когтями😁😁😂😆🤣
Идиотизм
Когти иногда надо стричь, верно. Или у них там это не по баблу? Неприятно.
🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍 до слёз...
Hello,
Thank you for the video. It was very informative concerning one method of removing a broken bolt and in this case in an aluminum casting. Using a punch to screw a set of threads on out the way they were going. I used to be a machinist in a Ford road truck dealership and removing broken bolts was part of my purpose and I did remove hundreds of them. I just want to bring up a couple of points.
Point 1: It is seldom you get a broken bolt that will come out like you have just shown in this video. Most of the time, the reason the bolts are broken is because the threads are stuck in the threads the bolt is put into. Removing any broken bolt, I used to always try to use the method you have demonstrated first as it is the easiest. When I have tried what you have shown and the threads are stuck where they will not screw out, I try taping strait down on the broken bolt to see if that will break the threads free. If not, I will put some heat on the broken bolt and going forward, there are more invasive ways to do that will come next.
Point 2: In the video, you attempted to surround the place where you were working with a cloth to keep from getting savings down in the head which will ultimately get into the crank case. You did good putting the rag around where you were working. But, the next thing you did was take an air line to clear the trips away where you could see. Well when you used the forced air, you just blew all those shavings and chips right up under the rag. Not Good.
a 50 cc engine not the same as a 350 F150 eh get a drill and left turn cutting edge be done . as for tapping I use duct tape and a good rag . keep the chips out . seen the same thing there goes the crank bearings lol
Exactly what you said, my experience is the same as you described, and also to keep shawings under control I use grese besides rag precut shape to fit snugly around the place which needs attention. This is pretty much untipical. Also lefthand drill bit is of great help.
exactly,
the rags purpose was useless when he used the forced air
Eu, inainte de a posta o filmare de acest gen, în primul rând cred că mi-aș tăia unghiile 😀
Man, stop trying to convince him. In India anything is possible. It's full of RUclips with such engineers
धन्यवाद श्रीमान जी। आपका बहुत बहुत बहुत बहुत बहुत धन्यवाद। मेरी बाईक के चैम्बर में बोल्ड टूट गया था। मैं बहुत परेशान था। आपकी साहायता से मैने बोल्ड निकाल दिया।।धन्यवाद श्रीमान जी
Great trick that almost never works. Only when the screw is completely free of contamination and corrosion and is not deformed at all. A little galvanic corrosion or rust or oil sludge and it doesn't work. If the bolt is cross threaded it doesn't work. If it is bent it doesn't work. If it breaks in tension, the top few threads are usually deformed and it doesn't work. If the screw is stainless it doesn't work. If a steel screw is threaded into aluminum, it doesn't work. I could go on. If you have actually tried this trick, then you have probably resorted to drilling and using an ez-out or welding a stud, or drilling and re-threading to a larger size, or drilling and heli-coiling, which is what you see him doing on the first of the two holes. Probably because the simple trick didn't work and he resorted to using a drill and drill guide to remove the bulk of the bolt, then a dental pick to try to pick out the remaining pieces, then ran a tap into the hole, found out that the thread was shot anyway, then bored it over, tapped it, and put a heli-coil it. Note that you can see the stub of the broken screw in the first hole before he starts tapping, then there is a cut at 1:47, and turns the tap back out and the screw piece is gone. These RUclips tricks and "Next level process" videos always make anyone who has actually worked in a machine shop or repair shop roll their eyes back in their head. When you see "life hack." "next level," or "simple trick" in a youtube video, it should set off your bullsh!t detector.
These people are only aprendists, not qualyfyed techition.
I have used the hammer & punch or chisel method many times.
I was born before easy-outs were invented & I couldn't afford a welder.
What I have is patience and tenacity.
@@savage22bolt32 Yeah, I’d agree. This is all you need a lot of the time, and is the most basic method so you need to learn it first! On teaching it to apprentices I’ve often heard “ah, would never have thought of that!”
RIGHT ! Jeremy Hicks is 100% right. When the trouble is a broken screw...OK, sometimes it works, provided you got enough room for the maneuver. If the hole is too deep it won't be possible. In that case you must use a carbide drill and make a hole right in the broken screw. But when you got a broken tap...which usually is stuck, matters become more complicated. You get the job done if you have a tap extractor. Not a cheap chinese stuff as it will brake easily. The Walton stuff may be the right option.
You took the words out of my mouth!
Тряпочка конечно выполнила свою задачу😂
Это точно
это чтоб не отсвечивало
@@businesstrip1086 tylko przeciw potu
Many years ago I had a stud break just below the surface of an alloy engine block. The guy who saved my bacon took a short length of mild steel flat bar, drilled a hole near one end, slightly smaller than the stud diameter. He then TIG welded the bar to the broken stud through the hole. He then just unscrewed it, the heat of the weld also helped free up the corrosion which caused the breakage in the first place.
My broke stud was held completely tight... the method shown here would never have worked.
He could have used his finger nails instead of the 2nd hand ground down pliers.
🤣
I clicked to comment the same exact thing! Lmao
He could have also used a vacuum cleaner instead of blowing with air the metal shavings into the engine!!
Could be a woman, fingers way too long as well.
I’d say a drill and Easyout would still have been quicker with less chance of damaging the upper threads with that homemade centre punch
Развеселил! Молодчина! Кометы, огонь!!!
I generally go with the concept that if it is liquid it cannot be stuck. 🙂 Seriously, anybody who is working with steel bolts in aluminum castings should be applying an anti seize when assembling the parts. It will also help to prevent stripout when tightening the bolts.
Antiseize is a better lubricant than oil and it acts as a sacrificial material under corrosion conditions. Specified torque is based on a specified lubricant and the friction experienced when using it. Using antiseize instead of oil makes it EASIER to strip the threaded hole when tightening. Even if you understand that, it's not possible to know the CORRECTED torque to apply. If antiseize is used for protection, it should NOT be on the working threads, but those at the top of the hole where the bolt is exposed to moisture. (BTW, The correct torque applied to polished stainless helicoil wire threads is also less that applied to a base material with cut threads.)
@@psdaengr911 Please don't lecture to a licensed engineer who has spent a lifetime with threaded fasteners in life critical applications and the interactions between dissimilar metals.
@@paulkurilecz4209 Hey two questions since you have a lot of experience. Currently cleaning/fixing up a 1988 Yamaha Moto 4 350 ATV. Over the years working on random stuff I always searched for good ways to remove rust from fasteners but ended up always doing it by hand with a wire brush mostly. I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner last week and some Evaporust and it has worked great so far with cleaning up nuts and bolts and small parts. As far as protecting them afterwards since the zinc coating is gone what do you recommend? Searched around a lot and it seems there is nothign that really holds up good besides coating them again but I really don't wanna invest the money nor do I have the space to set up a meth lab like zinc plating operation lol. For now the bolts I've cleaned are in a ziplock bag coated in WD-40 until I need them but really wanna try something else.
Second question. Last night I was working on it and tried to remove to M6 screws holding the exhaust heat shield on. It was one of those "I know I should let these soak a few different nights before attempting it" moments but I tried anyways and sure enough snapped them. The broken bolts are sticking out about a 16th of an inch. What is a good extractor set that won't break the bank? I don't have a welder so that option is out. I was gonna drill a hole with a reverse drill bit and if that doesn't catch the bolt then I can try the extractor. Just don't know which set to go with. Thanks
@@paulkurilecz4209 Good on you. Using both antiseize, and proper torquing methods, ie
@@z1522 Also a good idea is to use stainless steel fasteners with aluminum. When using carbon steel fasteners, if there is any moisture present the aluminum will be anodic to the steel and be wasted away.
Первый раз вижу автослесаря с таким маникюром 🤪
Выключил после первого момента с ногтями!!!!
Это чтоб в носу ковыряться)
Европа однако.....
Он солидол под ногтями домой вороует
Хули за смену лак стирается,он после работы подкрашивает.😂
Thank you for sharing. “One size” for this problem doesn’t always fit, but l like it when people share what worked cause sometimes it works and other times it doesn’t (and, you try something else).
Господи я на одном дыхании смотрел эту очень сложную операцию по извлечению сломанного болтика. Хотя мне показалось когда он дул воздухом тот болтик сам уже начал выкручиваться. Одним словом мастер своего дела
This solution is effective only in one case: when the bolt breaks off while being tightened, and when it does not rest against the bottom, after which, usually, the thread “unwinds” and changes pitch if the tightening was carried out without observing the torque. therefore, you first need to make sure that the thread has not “unraveled” on the broken edge. otherwise, when turned out, not only the pitch, but also the alignment will be destroyed on the upper remainder of the thread.
Nice job all the shavings inside the valves 👍
Bueno, siempre puedes soplar; pero espera!, aprovecha para antes pintarle las uñas 😉
А что за машина ЗИЛ 120 наверное такого мастера как он будет этот беркут
Вся стружка в движке. Молодец косяк.
Ещё и песок от грязной тряпки, которую он закинул на двиг якобы от стружки.
Simplest way is not to break the bolt in the first place. If it feels tight, apply a little heat to the bolt head only. Cool with air line and repeat as many times as necessary. It usually works after the first couple of applications.
cool, but you tell that to a bolt that just snaps from having been torqued up and heat cycled and just lost the will to live while installed
@@stijnvandamme76 Yep, I'm afraid some will just break anyway, Just tough luck sometimes
I'm assuming the bolt broke when tightening because no corrosion is present. Nice presentation on Heli-coil prep and installation. This person is well-experienced on proper tapping procedures of aluminum, backing to break chips and clearing chips before they score the new threads. Nice video!
He is just letting all the swarf fall into the engine.
Маникюр ШИКАРНЫЙ... Где такой делал? Неужто там же, в том же салоне? Я на болтик даже и не смотрел. Да он от чертилки и так бы выкрутился... :)
Ребята,ну видно же ,что это чудо мастера из Индии😅
Thanks for the tip. I'm no longer a mechanic and I used to do the same for hummv cylinder heads. But it doesn't work most of the time. I would use left handed drill bits too.
Amazing !!!! what an art it is to remove and fix that kind of stuff. Excellent !!!
Мне больше всего понравилось выкручивание болта пальцем! Ну и, конечно, надо было в двигло ещё пару щепоток стружки и какого-нибудь мусора насыпать. Для надёжности!
Прикрыть старыми штанами, вот это поворот.
Вот это по нашему. Закрыть (местами) тряпочкой и ...Раздуть( а не пропылесосить) всю стружку по всей "башке" (гбц). Лайк за солидарность в технологиях "срача". (Шутка , хотя...)
Бро да мы Русские это поняли)))
@@odinochka42 Нам бы славянам немецкой чистоты и точности .... Смотря этот ролик, сам себя поймал на мысли что и я, такой же" чисто плотный" моторист.Ведь сам уже в дв.ЕР -6 (BMW) ронял сухари клапанов в канал цепи привода ГРМ . Потом сутки искал, пока не нашел .
@@Igor-uo6tc я это проходил тоже. И теперь все отверстия закрываю тряпочками)))
@@odinochka42 На эту тему есть Байка. При встрече в Тегеране Сталин задал вопрос Черчиллю : "Что Вы думаете о Русских воинах? " Ответ Черчилля был : Вы ,русские - единственная НАЦИЯ ,которая упорно создаёт себе проблемы и... с не меньшим упорством их решает."
@@odinochka42 надо просто метчик густо намазать литолом. Тогда вся стружка выйдет с метчиком обратно. Обтер и стерильно.
Now do one that is seized in there. That broke bolt could have been spun out with a left drive bit or a button magnet. What was the Heli-coil about???? This was easy peazy~!!
Походу шпильку обломали на закручивании и с упором носика в тело головки, не в край резьбы, иначе обломок так легко бы не выкрутился
Не это не так было, скорей всего крышку снял, спецом туда обломышь с руки ввернул, а потом выебывается, вот типа, смотрите как надо было))
Уникальнейший способ! Просто Шедевр в сфере технического решения.
You are creativity It's true
I am a new subscriber to your channel and this is my first comment in this video that deserves all the appreciation
I wish you success and lasting success, God willing and his blessings
Your friend Hani
from Egypt from Cairo
I wanta see how ya'll lifted them blocks and built those pyramids ? If its a secret i won't tell no one ? 😂
I've used the same trick myself. I used a masonry nail as a punch with it being very thin, sharp and very hard. Take your time and care don't mash the hole or the end of the broken off bolt up.
I have done this before too!
Thanks for the great video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music.
Hi, I have an 8 in wide drawer in my tool box that is dedicated to small, pointy tools like this . Chissels of all kinds of faces and many more dedicated to "Hey, get Dean, he can get them out, LOL I'm retired now but on occasion the logging shop still will call every once in a while to help them out. Hmmm, Retirement sucks, LOL.
but you have the skill to do it.
@@raiderman28 Hi, True but at one time I didn't know how and was taught by a fella from Germany how to do it and I love to teach others how to do it. Many can't and I am ok with that. We can't all do it all but There are still many things for me to learn yet. I am just 70 now so there is lots of time yet EHH. Take care my friend. . . . Dean. . . . .
Очень познавательное видео, от души посмеялся, а ещё больше от комментариев 🤣🤣🤣
Точно ❗️
Комменты - 👍👍👍
Проще простого, попробуйте таким способом извлечь прикипевший остаток болта или закрученный не по резьбе)А тут можно было и когтями)))
Question?.... And a logical one I hope....if sheared bolt snapped,how did the remaining broken piece unthread that easily....?
Nice to see he blew the swarf all around the valves and rockers, should have taken more precautions.
Must not have had a vacuum!!
Мастер крут .Так могут только парни с такими ногтями.
Thank you. I snapped some bolts when installing my harmonic balancer on my BMW. I was actually able to use a pick tool to remove it
Left handed drill bit is always my first option. Has worked more times than I would have expected.
Yes !
the best thing is to use a small metal tube in which to pass the left handed drill bit
so as not to damage the thread
Good idea, but left handed bits aren't very common. They're kind of hard to find, and I imagine they cost more than their regular right hand counterparts. Too, I'm not sure I could get used to sharpening a lefty. It would take some getting used to, for sure.
Does the bit ever break?
I don't recall ever breaking a lefty bit. I suggest a quality bit (cobalt, carbide, titanium coated at the least. Gentle pressure, low rpm, DRY, Very slight off center angle of attack. You want the bit to Bite and reverse the fastener. Screw extractior comes next if need be Good Luck!
Очень интересно.Сверху закрыли тряпкой,чтобы струшка не попадала на на детали при нарезки резьбы.Но стружка то падает вниз.Ребята-будьте внимательны,особенно,когда продуваете сжатым воздухом остатки стружки.Рекомендую вам,просмотреть ваше видио самим,как это всё вы делали.
Правильно.
Can't understand the thinking behind the procedure.
Was happy to see the rag come out, but couldn't believe how it was placed.
видео из ряда - лишь бы что-то....такую шпильку и обломать, надо лошарой быть
Yeps, blow lots of swarf into the top of the cylinder with compressed air. Great technique.
Этот мастер-фломастер когти стрежет когда-нибудь?
what horrible nails ...
Да не когда, зачем? Они сами обламываются 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Он этим когтем в нутро своей пУ́сечки 😂 прощупывает каждый раз
Они у него самозатачивающиеся.
Зачем ему ногти стричь, они у него вместо отвёртки.
Парень с длинными ногтями - ты лучший!
Такой херни я давно не видел. Ключём ты болт обломал, а кёрнышком так спокойненько, не напрягаясь - тук, тук - и открутил!
Молодец!
КлючОм
Этот парниша не русский - у них мозги через жёпу работать....
Этот парень факир, у него всё получится!
Как же он этот болт обломал, если он так легко идёт? А главный секрет, как выкрутить болт - это ногти не стричь. Никогда. 😳
Сам наверно его туда и зах@ярил))
Обломаный болт прочно сидит в гнезде, пальчиком не достаёшь.
Это такие специальные Когти Самозатачивающиеся.
Over the years 55 + in engineering within a brewery. I have several times and it worked for me. Usually when the bolt had had a thick washer or spiring washer beneath the head.
But cannot speak as when heavy handed fools employed a swing bar or a length of pipe over a spanner.
Know your limits and have some idea to stretch and yield elasticity of a pin.
But in the end experience says more than haste.
Надо же, а баба просто супер. Мужик бы ни за что не догадался😂
Ваш юмор оценен по достоенству ! Спасибо!
Супер мастер!! Нагнать стружки в мотор - как бонус для клиента)) Капец просто.....
там была тряпка ! я видел ! )))))
Он потом когтями каждую стружечку вытащил. Не стал показывать, это ведь ещё двенадцать часов видео.
Если этот обрубок изначально болтается в резьбе, может его туда для съёмок закрутили?
В бытность работы мотористом частенько отламывал болты (особенно у зил-120?) на головке блока , но ни разу при отломе, отверстия там не было, чтобы нарезать резьбу. И приходилось сверлить, потом забивать что-то твёрдое и выкручивать Ну или же иметь сверло, может метчик левосторонние.
ЗИЛ 120 ? Что за зверь ???
Обычно прикипевшие или ржавые болты ломаются,посмотрел бы я как он их выкрутил этим сомнительным способом.
Да ты ещё не видел как он по пальмам лазит с такими когтями🤣🤣🤣
По щючьему велению....
All ready use 15 years ago.thank you. I am a machine shop.
Для таких обломышей и по сложней очень помогают свёрла с левым вращение.
Попробуй постучи кернышком по обломку шпильки в выпускном коллекторе двигателя, или по обломку свечи в свечном колодце.
Экстракторы разного диаметра не дураки придумали!))
Ни один экстрактор ещё не смог выкрутить ни один нормальный заломышь. Только сварка или сверление.
@@ТретьяСтолица-м2о Шпильки выпускного коллектора, обломанные под корень, нормальные обломыши?
@@Сергий-т4е их не выкрутишь экстрактором
@@ТретьяСтолица-м2о Может мы о разном говорим? Экстрактор, это такой винт с левой конической резьбой. Сверлишь в обломке отверстие нужного диаметра, ввинчиваешь в него экстрактор и ....
@@Сергий-т4е и в момент вкручивания экстрактор расширяет обломыш,и он ещё сильнее закусывает. Пробовал, знаю.
I see this video was just over eight minutes long. Good job tho . But if you have never tried left hand drill bits you will be greatly surprised by trying them. This would have took less time to do than it took to put the bit in the drill . But you did great your way also . Thanks
One of the best ways to remove a broken stud is with a left hand drill bit. More often than not the drill bit grabs the stud and backs it right out. I have to do this almost every day taking stainless screws/bolts out of either aluminum or stainless holes and sometimes cast iron.
I have done this also .. if the bolt is broken off seldom easy to back out!!!!
Exactly. Plus this video seems unreal. Left over broken bolts are rarely this loose in the thread. I saw an awesome method to center the bore exactly in such case: use a door hinge centering drill 'bit' to start the whole. Then you can use the left hand drill and easy out if necessary.
Agreed, and or a left hand tap.
I get mine in HSS from the local bolt supplier
I've been working as a mechanic fifty years and breaking a bolt by over tightening often leaves the broken piece loose enough to work out this way. The hardest to remove are almost exclusively broken because of corrosion locking the threads to the aluminum. I would agree, using every possible advantage is the best way to least impact the strength of the aluminum threads.
I have used this method many times.
When you don't have a left hand twist drill.
Left-handed drill bits work real good
The best way is to take out the whole piece and drill the broken bits with smaller drill bit on a perfectly horizontal surface. The way it is done here, there may be problems later when fasterning back the machine as the screw trade has been damaged. The method show here not in line with precision engineering.
What good does it do to cover the top of the tapped when the cuttings are are falling down into the engine? oh, I see the air will blow everything further in.
O truque, afinal, não é tão simples como parece, caso o parafuso esteja bem firme dentro da rosca. E geralmente parafusos quebram justamente por estarem presos na rosca. A melhor maneira é usar um punção e marcar o centro do parafuso e depois ir furando com um broca fina (de widea, melhor) e enfim usar um extrator se necessário, já que às vezes dando reverso na furadeira (bem devagar) a broca "engancha" no parafusos e este sai numa boa.
I use a left-twist bit.
Era bom que fosse assim tão fácil! 😂😂😂😂
What caused that steel bolt to break in an aluminum head? Too much tension (tightening) should have stripped the aluminum threads, like in the first hole. It didn't break by hitting the hole bottom before the seating of its head, and it didn't break because the threads were seized. These look like valve-cover bolts, only.
If you broke the bolt and you know why ard how you broke it, you might avoid the same mistake and not have to resort to removal techniques.
The "trick" shown here is a good one to keep in your mental "tool box" for many situations, however as the comments show, the video otherwise mostly shows many mechanic's flaws. It sure got a lot of views and comments though!
Perhaps the best illustrated "trick" is how to write an alluring U-tube title. It addressed a VERY common problem mechanics face, often from their own clumsiness, and promises a "simple" solution. The next great U-tube "Gotcha" title: "How to lose weight by eating all you want while only sitting and watching U-tubes!"
🤣
nice camera that's a really sweet looking picture
WHAT A MEDICAL/SURGICAL VIDEO OF QUALITY OF THE GRIME- EMBEDED PORES AND BLACK-SMITHED CRONEYED THUMB NAILED CLAW OF AWE !
Когда он начал выкручивать обломок круглогубцами, я подумал это оператор ему решил помочь своей рукой😂
))))))))))))))))
The least 'seized' broken bolt in the history of broken bolts.
It's a simple trick all right, for a broken bolt that is LOOSE in its hole. ANYBODY can get those out!
Способ конечно не очень,но ноготь вообще огонь 🔥🔥🔥
Обломок *болта* - далеко не то же, что обломок *шпильки:*
в торце первого можно просверлить 2 отверстия под плоскую отвёртку с вырезом -
а в торце второго придётся сверлить *осевое* отверстие для экстрактора (негодного метчика со спиленными на косой клин зубьями).
При Союзе про экстрактор и не подозревали , сверлили отверстие и забивали заточенный трехгранный напильник .
@@gewelryamator4252,
напильники делают из ОЧЕНЬ хрупкой стали - У13А, которая ПЛОХО работает на скручивание:
из трёхгранных напильников делали *шаберы...*
@@gewelryamator4252ну конечно. Я работал в АТП, в иструменталке был комплект вывертышей, однажды я взял такой со стола перепутав с обычным метчиком и так узнал об их существовании)
@ 4:43 May I know the name of that conical tool? Thank you for the great film of a very skilled master.
RICHARD? AKA A- DICK?
Вот это трюк, сума сойти!😏
Sheesh, that thing is so loose that all you'd need is a small magnet stuck in the hole and you could spin it out with that! If not that a dab of glue on a Q-Tip. LOL
Я чуть не заплевал увидев ногти
Some people add a little bit of bearing grease in the shred collecting portion of the re-threading tool. This way it lubricates the cut and collects the material keeping it in that gap rather than it slipping between or rubbing into the threads.
Right ! Grease is better.......
Соляркой (дизельным топливом ) нужно смазывать метчик, а не маслом, иначе вы не нарежете в дюрали или в алюминии резьбу
Даже не соляркой, а керосином
Это не проще, чем засверлить сломанный болт обратной резьбой или парой отверстий для ключа по типу вилки.
Been there, done that !
One of the best skills I was fortunate enough to learn, as a young machine builder !
I would first blow out the hole, then spray aerosol lubricant in, then begin to use the punch !
Then blow it out, and introduce more lubricant !
Great if you don't have a Tap Burner, aka : Electrical Discharge Machine.
(EDM)
Funny, like so many other things, I would have guessed this was a lost Art !
👍😉
Вот уж действительно трюк!))) Сначала сломал болт, закрутил обломок в резьбу, а потом на камеру выковырял его ногтем.)))
Dokładnie tak było , naprawdę urwane śruby nie idą tak łatwo a często bywa tak że narzędzia do wykręcania urwanych śrub umieją się złamać , a wtedy to jest już dupa bo urwane narzędzie w śrubie jest z tak twardej stali że nie idzie tego ponownie nawiercić. Sprężyny do naprawy gwintów też są gówno warte , jeśli ktoś by chciał tak naprawić urwany gwint świecy to jest to strata czasu , chyba że naprawa była by wykonana na zasadzie : "gwarancja do bramy i się nie znamy".
@@ENTER-pd3yx Если хочешь общаться давай на великом и могучем... . Твоё блеяния я не понимаю. Go. Go. Негр, go.
Ну-да, хороший способ, только вот обломок стального болта М6 из алюминиевого картера удалось выкрутить только после наваривания на него гайки М8
Só dá para soldar a porca se ele tiver ponta para fora.
the method that is shared to deal with broken bolts in the engine block is very useful, friend
Что бы стружка при нарезании резьбы не сыпалась куда попало, и не выдувать ее потом компрессором, надо мечик смазать густой смазкой типа литол.
Да не, чтобы стружка не сыпалась вниз надо тряпку сверху положить )))))
убил )))))))@@ЮрийЭтьемез
Теперь я узнал в чем кроется мастерство настоящего суперавтослесаря - в длинных полгода не стриженных ногтях.
Yeah puts 9 inch nails movie to shame 😊
Poczekam z rok jak mi urosną takie pazury to też tak będę czarował!
Też bym polecił nożyczki i w pierwszej kolejności obcięcie szponów
Um parafuso quebra por excesso de força no aperto. Este está completamente solto. Quando quebra e trava, o melhor ( se possível) é furar o centro com uma broca fina, ir alargando o furo com outras brocas e por fim usar um macho de rosca esquerda.
Thank you for this idea, very helpful to save money
Способ не эффективен на затянутых и на заржавевших болотах. Заржавевших болты даже не всегда получается высверлить или открутить специальными приспособами. А так да, тоже бывает откручиваю обломаные болты и шпильки таким способом 👍
А ещё не эффективен, если болт обломался потому что был не по резьбе закручен
Автору просто фортануло
What is he working on?
Если изделие не гигантское - огонь и вода в помощь.
Слава Богу , что я не один подумал о том ,что он ногтем вывернет😂а оказалось - клювом!
WHEN THE BROKEN BOLT IS THAT LOOSE- - - - USE A "LEFT HANDED TURNING DRILL BIT ! IF NOT PERFECTLY CENTERED-- - - - USE A BOLT DIAMETER BUSHING WITH THE LEFT HANDED BIT. THEN WHEN CENTER DRILLED, USE A LEFT HANDED E-Z OUT.
KNIPEX PLIERS! AS TO FINGER NAILS, WATCH "THE WORLD'S FASTEST INDIAN MOVIE " ON THE TOE-NAIL TRIMMINGS OF PRE-BEDDINGS OF THE GIRL!
Хорошо бы посмотреть как будут выкручивать упёртый с торца обломок калёного болта.
Ногтём легко:)😂