So after watching this video, I had a customer bring me a truck flywheel with a broken stud deep in the hole. Did exactly what you did in this video, and it came out very easy.. made 100$ ... so where do I send you cut?
I learned about welding a nut over a broken bolt many years ago. Using the welder to remove a deep set broken bolt is a mind blowing game changer. So simple, yet so perfect. Well done man!
I'm that *guy* who you mentioned lol, I have figured out the same trick! I've done it a handful of times, and it gets easier after the first time lol... I'm sure you know another one where a large recessed stud can be blown out of an alloy casing with a torch (if it's in a blind spot where you can't see) but that's industrial level shenanigans
@@southernshop8424 If a casing is zinc alloy metal, a broken bolt can be burned through using oxy acetylene without damaging the female threads. It is only practical, however, on large municipal water pumps that cannot easily be dismantled, but where a torch can still reach. The bolts break from metal fatigue caused by vibration... It's a practical solution to a most unusual problem, so please forgive me for mentioning it.
You forgot the "mechanical inclination" that is needed. 99% of the population couldn't extract a broken stud, if you gave them a MIG-welder, a broken screwdriver, and a cup of black coffee.
As soon as you showed the copper pipe it clicked - "Of course!" Why didn't I ever think about that!? Genius! I've used brass and copper so support flat weld repairs, but I've never put two and two together for deep bolt/stud repairs. Absolute genius. Thank you.
I have been doing this for 35 years with a arc welder. It is great to have guys like you with a youtube channel to show stuff like this. RUclips is like a encyclopedia of knowledge and experience.
I'd agree with that never seen or even thought of that way before always reached for the blow torch when I've been in that situation. Luv these golden nuggets of information, tips an tricks or what ever you wanna call it. 👍
I worked in a shop that rebuilt gas turbines from aircraft and power generators. Lots of broken fasteners of all shapes and sizes. The welders were like magicians with their extraction techniques. Much respect.
When welding out a broken bolt that sticks out, tack on a flat washer that fits the bolt. This increases the inside diameter of the nut you can use. which allows you to add more heat to the bolt and the material it is in. The flat washer tends to protect the host material better, too. It also helps to pour some water on the red hot nut , which shrinks the bolt even more, making it easier to extract. When trying to extract an especially stubborn bolt out of steel, I have found that an overnight soak with a 10% Acetone/90% auto trans fluid mix really helps as well.
I come from the auto repair environment and for twenty years I have been using extractors, but I have to say that welding will be integrated in my business quickly, thanks to you. Thanks a bunch for sharing you tips. 💪👌
I fucking hate using extractors. They love to break off in the fastener you're trying to remove. Just did one a couple days ago. Got lucky and was able to remove the end of the extractor and finish drilling all the way through the bolt and ran a smaller bolt through the hole in the stuck bolt and used a nut to secure the headlight onto the radiator support. Luckily it was a very low stress point so it didn't need much to hold the corner of the light in place.
I have been doing weld bolt extraction for decades, but using a copper pipe to shield the threads was brand new to me. Excellent! No need to run a tap through a weld-damaged hole.
Amazing! I have been wrenching and welding nuts on bolts for 20 years and never seen the copper tube trick...I will be using this at some point I'm sure. Thank you so much for sharing.
Been a machinist for about 55 years, and I'm embarrassed to admit that I've never seen this technique before. Not sure that it'd work for most situations, but I'm willing to try it out. Thanks for the new option.
Wow, I wish I had seen this years ago. I worked at a sawmill and had to remove grade 10, 3/4" X 2-1/2" bolts broken off well below the flat part of the machine. I used a short welding rod, 7018. It was in a bearinged casing, so I had to start the weld and have someone pull the ground off as I welded. The welding rod would then stick to the bolt and I would (most times) be able to turn the bolt out. Lots of anti-seaze would then be placed on the new bolt and torqued to 110 ft lbs. Every weekend. It started with just the back three bolts (every weekend I would replace the back three, broken or not, plus the ones on either side of the broken ones). Then five, when it got to 11 or so , the company finally put a new ring and bearing on. The new ring had 7/8" bolts that went all the way through and had nuts on the other side. This machine picked three to four logs at time to put up on the log deck. Most of the logs were 40 to 44 ft long and about (on average) 12" in diameter. That was my first machine center I had in that sawmill. I worked that machine center for the first 3 or 4 years, then I got to move inside the building. Thanks for the fine memories. LOL
I have been using the welded nut method to remove broken bolts for years. In 2008 I started working at a trucking company where the mechanics had been trying to drill out broken exhaust manifold bolts. When they screwed up the cylinder head trying to remove the bolt, they would replace the cylinder head. I showed the other mechanics they method and saved the company thousands of dollars. I couldn’t believe the other mechanics had never used that method before!
I worked as a maintenance man for a big company and one day a salesman came by and showed me a welding rod that I stuck into the hole and it just built up and out of the hole. Then take a pliers and unscrew the broken bolt
Wow, I've dealt with many bolts broken in deep holes and they are always frustrating and difficult. Sometimes leading to a drill out and special inserts. This is by far the BEST method I have ever seen for getting them out while protecting the threads. Thank you for the clever and efficient method. This is now my new goto method for getting this done.
I took a few welding rods with me to purchase some copper tubes. There are precious few size options to choose from for both. My small collection of materials give me somewhat limited options, but I'm ready for the next deep bolt extraction provided its the right size bolt. I could use my mig (as you did) for big bolts too, but I might need to practice some before feeling confident about doing that.
@@gregpetty4185 the only time I use it , is after the heat and it cools down some (so it doesn't smoke like a bitch) just so it unthreads a little easier ..........oops , hahahah he just said the same in the vid at this moment 😝
Me and my brother have done it like this for over 20 years. Dont remember who had shown it to us but we also used one bad screw driver for dozens of bolts. Great job on this video!!!
I always look forward to what new tricks/ideas you come up with.......I finally figured it out......the dog comes up with the ideas and clues you in....great dog!
Awesome tips! Here's another one many will be interested in to do this in tight places; I figured this out just now when I had to remove a broken water pump bolt that was sheared off flush. There was no room in the engine compartment to even think about drilling, so I decided to try my luck welding it with a stick welder with a bent rod because there wasn't even enough clearance for a mig nozzle. Since the nut had to be sideways, gravity wasn't on my side. I found that you can use masking tape to hold the nut on (probably helps shield it as well), but the surface must be very clean for it to stick; using wax & grease remover worked well, but alcohol would be just as good. With very little clearance and only seeing it sideways, the first time I didn't hit the stud first, it hit the side of the nut and failed. On my next try, I put tape over the whole nut and punched a hole in the center just big enough for the welding rod to fit through so I could position it dead center; this helped alot! I used a 1/16" 8013 rod at 40 amps DC.
Thank you sir I ran into that on my friends Cadillac what a pain and one of my Pontiac muscle cars. Why they put small bolts I don’t understand Chevy 350 are good to work on for beginners
For 20 years I've used aluminum soda cans. Cut a piece out roll I up and put it in the hole. Mig weld doesn't stick to the aluminum. I've used it to remove bolts on dozer tracks.
Hey, I am a 65 year old mechanic Blacksmith construction you name it. Good stuff. Never too late to learn something new. Familiar with the welding the nut on technique, however never saw the copper insert technique. Just got old school stick welders. however, could use one of those real skinny rods in there. Thanks much. You are a true Genius. PS I am a new subscriber just forwarded this to my boy who is a mechanic as well. You are the man. Keep up the great work. Feel better about my own shop and tools when I see yours. Without the tools and equipment you can't fix jack. right? Have a beautiful day thanks again. Jim
Thank you for saving my restoration of a really nice motorcycle. I was looking at trying to find a case for the engine because of a recessed broken bolt. The cases are impossible to locate. I can't Thank you enough for this video. WOW, it works.
Great video my friend Just to clear up something you mention about the the bolts being under torque pressure/value of 80 to 100 lbs. Once a bolt head is broken off, the torque value is zero/static/ neutral because the bolt head flange is what stops and draws the thread of a bolt up in the opposite direction that interns applies the downward pressure measured in foot or inch pounds also stretching the bolt as much as tensile strength allows. So the only other things to deal with is corrosion, debris or cross-threaded material as you address that issue. Great job !! I learned something new in your extraction method that is solid and fool proof. I am a subscriber Thanks
Also that looks like cast alloy, no way would a bolt in that material and that small be anymore than 30 FTLBS. And it was NOT locked in he just screwed it in there.. so the copper tube is the nifty part the rest i have been doing also for 50 years..
there is torque value in the resistance of the stuck corroded thread surfaces climbing or descending the incline plane of the thread . So no need to be so critical of the wording you engineering guys LOL . IT WORKS so just use it to impress your friends
See this is why I always watch your videos. I have been watching your channel for a very long time and 99% of the time your methods are not only something I’ve never seen before but ALWAYS useful. Never something stupid or silly and can be used by new or experienced users. I may even go as far as saying this is probably the most useful channel on RUclips.
I removed a broken O2 sensor bolt the other day. I first welded a flat washer to the broken bolt then welded the nut. Isaac from IC Welds showed me to add the washer. It insured a better welding surface. Your copper pipe trick is fantastic. I will incorporate it into my skill set. Thanks!!!
I've never seen the copper tube method before, but it's as close to perfect as it gets for this job. Using the "sacrificial screwdriver" is so simple it's brilliant. Excellent.
That copper tube trick to protect the threads is extremely useful. Thank you for sharing. When my basic SIP Mig welder was misbehaving (and I was only a little further down the learning curve) I managed to get the welding wire to weld itself to the copper nozzle! Too close, too low feed, too much juice - probably. Anyway, the tiny hole got fully blocked with wire, and no matter how hard I tugged, the wire would not break free. It’s possible to fuse most metals together in the right (or wrong) circumstances. Low temperature brazing brass to stainless steel is one of the best examples.
Sometimes a file can fix the burnt tip if the weld isn't up inside the tip too far. Saved me from having to stop working because it was the last good one I had on the weekend when the weld shop is closed.
That is an amazing trick with the copper tubing. I knew about welding the nut on but never thought of using something like copper tubing. next time I have that problem I'm definitely going to try that.
Copper sheet metal is great for any repairs that you are doing to aluminum also. A friend of mine is a great TIG- welder. When I brought him a small aluminum engine block, and asked him to weld a hole closed ... he used copper as a backing for the repair, then filled the hole with aluminum rod. The copper kept the aluminum puddle from sagging, or blowing through, and didn't stick to the repair after the area cooled. I filed that one in my arsenal of cool tricks, for later use.
Great idea and added to my list of "how to get out of deep crapola" !!! BTW, for the same reason using copper tubing in deep broken bolts, because copper and steel will not fuse, next time you have a flush or protruding bolt ... use a copper washer under the nut you'll be welding to the bolt ... you'll not only gain more weld contact surface, it will also aid in reducing rotational forces at the beginning of the bolt unthreading process.
Man, you are seriously innovative, this is the third video I've watched of yours, and the common sense approach and tips are very useful. New subscriber!
Awesome technique! Never seen this one, but noted! Also, in really tough situations you can heat the female very hot and touch a candle to the thread area after you weld on the nut or screw driver. Sucks the wax in in like solder and lubricates much better than penetrating oil. We use this method in Alaska on the rusty saltwater infested manifolds etc....works every time.......knock on wood so far.
It's weird, as soon as I see that you were using copper tube I guessed what you'd do! It's intuitive! Great video, I'd never have thought to use the copper as a shrowd to protect the threads. Tip-top tip!
As a brand newbie to welding... But as a guy who has been struggling with broken bolts and aluminum wave runner heads and exhaust components for the last 15 years... I am so glad I found this video only weeks after I started to weld. And I'm also glad that I never had to learn the old way if this is the new way to get him out of the deep pockets!!
I believe you can also buy stick electrodes for building up broken studs in recessed holes, I think they have a special thick flux coating to reduce any chance of the arc straying sideways onto the parent metal. I’ve always welded a large washer on first to protect the parent metal and allow the use of a larger nut. This I find gives the opportunity to really get some heat into the broken bolt/stud, which expands to break any seal, (rust etc) and when cooled slightly, will usually unscrew.
I do the same thing with a heavy washer on top then a nut welded to the washer. I use a tall enough nut so I can weld inside it and around the lower outside edge. Have never had it not work. I always weld a washer before even trying with out it. with.with out it..
There is a welding rod specifically made for this purpose. You just jam it down to the busted bolt, weld away until it builds up above the top of the hole. You chip the Flux off , and find a perfect shaft. The Flux fills into the threads leaving no damage. You then simply drop a nut on the shaft you built from the nut, and weld it to the shaft. They come out like butter. Can't remember the company who makes these stick welding rods as it's been over 10 years since I used them. I'm sure multiple company's are producing these buy now. Not knocking your method tho, it's a very good one.
Ain't got a mig welder.. just a stick.. like the idea.. thanks I'll give it ago!! Got a metal bolt in alloy.. going into steel broken..I think the heat will loosen it cheers 👍
👍 Great video and method. The bolts broken at high torque though would not seem to be an issue to me though. When the head comes off you should loose the tension unless the bolt or threads are stretched. The issue Id say especially in the lawn mower parts is moisture and corrosion.
As an aircraft mechanic if twenty years I have used Aerokroil and heat to remove steel parts from in aluminum housings and it works great. The heat expands the aluminum and the oil penetrates quite well.
I’m an A&P/IA as well, and love kroil. But what do you do when a bolt or stud is broken and recessed like this? With no exposed head to use to turn it.
Great job with the copper tube.Thank you for your wisdom There is a lot more to understand when metals corrode especially for two dissimliar metals. When steel rusts it expands around 10% in volume, this puts tremendous internal pressures especially on threaded parts as they have more surface area. When the rust is combined with aluminium corrosion the bonding occuring will make the undoing torque more then the torsional strength of the bolt, hence the bolt breaks. Actually, heating up with a blow torch does NOT always work. I did this to rusted in lock nut ont a magneto cover on a lawnmower and it did not release. The nut and shaft both heated up and cooled down, so the rust bond did not break. After talking to an older gentleman he advised me to heat it up again and cool down the nut with a water wet clothe. Sure enough this worked, as the nut cooled down first before the shaft. Penetrant oils do not work on very corroded parts especially dissimilar metals. I am a Material Scientist, Metalwork, Woodwork and Electronics teacher. Regards, from sunny Sydney Australia.
I have 30 + shelved problem pieces that I can now address. Slightly annoyed i didn't think of it or your video did not show in my many searches. Very good solution.
You could have removed a lot of the metal by drilling thru that copper pipe also. The pipe keeps your bit straight and centered. Weld would have more surface area to fuse to, or one could drill it out thru that pilot hole to the minimum thread diameter. Chase the threads out a bit at a time. Good video.
THAT is the whip!!!!! I can hardly believe how quickly that worked out! Like a sore weener! YOU CAN'T BEAT IT!!!!!! I very much appreciate you sharing this, brother!
I like your idea of using a nail punch to connect the threads better. I obviously works as a center punch too. Very cool method of bolt removal, even though welding is beyond my pay grade.
I like the first method very much, the second method I put penetrating fluid on first then I place a washer over the bolt, weld that in place then place a nut on the washer and weld that in place. I learnt it a few years ago and I have done quite a few turbo manifold into aluminium heads with success every time. Great channel 👍
Really impressed with that technique your using. I was a mechanic for thirty five plus years along with twenty five years of military service, with over half that time as a track and wheeled vehicle mechanic. In that time I did my share of bolt extractions with easy outs and such. Question: Is there any chance you've don't or could do it on a cast iron cylinder head or engine block? Thanks for all you do for the mechanic community by taking the time to make this very informative video. I was an Army Infantry Dril Instructor / Sergeant during my military service. Your instruction knowledge and skills were superlative. Sincerely ARNI SHOOK Chief Warrant Officer U.S. Army Retired
Im Surprised with your Experience that you asked that Question the Copper is a Shield that it Wouldn't Matter which Material it was done with.. THANK YOU For your Service I have much Respect for Warrant Officers 👊🇺🇸
The issue with a steel bolt in aluminium casting is that, irrespective of the final torque, once the bolt tension and elongation, which is the effect of torque, has been released by the bolt breaking, it is not the torque that holds the thread in place, but the formation of a molecular bond between the two dissimilar metals where the electrons of each metal cross over to form an atomic bond that must be broken. This happens over a long period of time and especially in moist conditions where a 'battery' electrical effect causes on of the metals to corrode.
Great tip for removing buried broken bolts. On the other broken bolts in the plate, after the head of the bolt breaks off there is no torque on the remaining threaded part, only the corrosion between steel and aluminum remains holding it. thanks so much for the great video.
Woah woah woah there champ, aerokroil is a god in my shop! Lol. Just messing with ya. Nice video! I will definitely be using this method from now on. Thanks!
So after watching this video, I had a customer bring me a truck flywheel with a broken stud deep in the hole. Did exactly what you did in this video, and it came out very easy.. made 100$ ... so where do I send you cut?
That's fantastic. I'm glad you tried it.
@@cuttersgoose youtube now reads human minds i swear lol
@@jamescole2266 lol...wouldnt suprise
@@jamescole2266 yeah...it does something, all right.
It's listening to you talk
I learned about welding a nut over a broken bolt many years ago. Using the welder to remove a deep set broken bolt is a mind blowing game changer. So simple, yet so perfect. Well done man!
Thanks Corey. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I'm that *guy* who you mentioned lol, I have figured out the same trick! I've done it a handful of times, and it gets easier after the first time lol... I'm sure you know another one where a large recessed stud can be blown out of an alloy casing with a torch (if it's in a blind spot where you can't see) but that's industrial level shenanigans
@@campbellpaul could you elaborate please?
@@southernshop8424 If a casing is zinc alloy metal, a broken bolt can be burned through using oxy acetylene without damaging the female threads. It is only practical, however, on large municipal water pumps that cannot easily be dismantled, but where a torch can still reach. The bolts break from metal fatigue caused by vibration... It's a practical solution to a most unusual problem, so please forgive me for mentioning it.
@@campbellpaul As an ex-Coast Guard Machinery Tech, I concur. Not for the squeamish!
This is what I love about youtube. People helping people. Thanks for the tip!
welder+ scrap heap = most of the specialized tools you'll ever need. awesome
Thanks Ryan. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
You forgot the "mechanical inclination" that is needed.
99% of the population couldn't extract a broken stud, if you gave them a MIG-welder, a broken screwdriver, and a cup of black coffee.
As soon as you showed the copper pipe it clicked - "Of course!" Why didn't I ever think about that!? Genius! I've used brass and copper so support flat weld repairs, but I've never put two and two together for deep bolt/stud repairs. Absolute genius. Thank you.
I have been doing this for 35 years with a arc welder. It is great to have guys like you with a youtube channel to show stuff like this. RUclips is like a encyclopedia of knowledge and experience.
That is awesome!
👍😘
WERE YOU USEING THE COPPER TUBEING ??
@@joeJrbill he was using the copper tubing for a barrier from threads and a mold for molten metal from welder.
It’s amazing how many unique techniques we take to grave, sharing is caring!
Anybody that gives this a thumbs down has never had to remove a broken off recessed bolt. Thanks for the tips and, I had a sixtyfourford.
Anybody who gives this a thumb down can go smoke a pickle. Every video Moe puts out has valuable content. If you don't agree, just go away.
Old heating system thermocouples are also good sources of copper tubing.
Thanks Guys. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
They should make it that if you give a thumbs down you have say why. Then maybe we can find out what these numb nuts are on about.
I'd agree with that never seen or even thought of that way before always reached for the blow torch when I've been in that situation. Luv these golden nuggets of information, tips an tricks or what ever you wanna call it. 👍
I worked in a shop that rebuilt gas turbines from aircraft and power generators.
Lots of broken fasteners of all shapes and sizes. The welders were like magicians with their extraction techniques. Much respect.
It’s an art that separates the men from the boys. Anyone can work on clean perfect parts
@@Eastahtata ditto
This is what I love about RUclips, kind people like yourself taking the trouble to share knowledge. Thanks for the video.
When welding out a broken bolt that sticks out, tack on a flat washer that fits the bolt.
This increases the inside diameter of the nut you can use. which allows you to add more heat to the bolt and the material it is in. The flat washer tends to protect the host material better, too.
It also helps to pour some water on the red hot nut , which shrinks the bolt even more, making it easier to extract.
When trying to extract an especially stubborn bolt out of steel, I have found that an overnight soak with a 10% Acetone/90% auto trans fluid mix really helps as well.
This is the best tutorial out there for removing broken bolts.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
I come from the auto repair environment and for twenty years I have been using extractors, but I have to say that welding will be integrated in my business quickly, thanks to you. Thanks a bunch for sharing you tips. 💪👌
It's such a time saver. I hope you try it out.
I fucking hate using extractors. They love to break off in the fastener you're trying to remove. Just did one a couple days ago. Got lucky and was able to remove the end of the extractor and finish drilling all the way through the bolt and ran a smaller bolt through the hole in the stuck bolt and used a nut to secure the headlight onto the radiator support. Luckily it was a very low stress point so it didn't need much to hold the corner of the light in place.
I have been doing weld bolt extraction for decades, but using a copper pipe to shield the threads was brand new to me. Excellent! No need to run a tap through a weld-damaged hole.
Amazing! I have been wrenching and welding nuts on bolts for 20 years and never seen the copper tube trick...I will be using this at some point I'm sure. Thank you so much for sharing.
I've been doing it this way for decades. Nice to know somebody is passing this knowledge along.
I have been a mechanic for 15 years and i gotta say thank you. this already saved me twice now and will save me a ton in the future.
Great to hear!
Been a machinist for about 55 years, and I'm embarrassed to admit that I've never seen this technique before. Not sure that it'd work for most situations, but I'm willing to try it out. Thanks for the new option.
Glad you liked it
Been a barber 42 yrs. My favorite thing is when a young (or old) hairstylist shows me something I've never seen before. Life is learning.
@@saltycreole2673 I'm in the porn industry and I like when the young pornstars show me something new
I’m in the same boat. It seem brilliant and I did learn a new way, even with 40 years of experience.
And here I thought I'd seen all the broken bolt removal methods. That copper pipe is genius. The screwdriver is a cherry on top. Great stuff.
Wow, I wish I had seen this years ago. I worked at a sawmill and had to remove grade 10, 3/4" X 2-1/2" bolts broken off well below the flat part of the machine. I used a short welding rod, 7018. It was in a bearinged casing, so I had to start the weld and have someone pull the ground off as I welded. The welding rod would then stick to the bolt and I would (most times) be able to turn the bolt out. Lots of anti-seaze would then be placed on the new bolt and torqued to 110 ft lbs. Every weekend. It started with just the back three bolts (every weekend I would replace the back three, broken or not, plus the ones on either side of the broken ones). Then five, when it got to 11 or so , the company finally put a new ring and bearing on. The new ring had 7/8" bolts that went all the way through and had nuts on the other side. This machine picked three to four logs at time to put up on the log deck. Most of the logs were 40 to 44 ft long and about (on average) 12" in diameter. That was my first machine center I had in that sawmill. I worked that machine center for the first 3 or 4 years, then I got to move inside the building. Thanks for the fine memories. LOL
I have been using the welded nut method to remove broken bolts for years. In 2008 I started working at a trucking company where the mechanics had been trying to drill out broken exhaust manifold bolts. When they screwed up the cylinder head trying to remove the bolt, they would replace the cylinder head. I showed the other mechanics they method and saved the company thousands of dollars. I couldn’t believe the other mechanics had never used that method before!
I worked as a maintenance man for a big company and one day a salesman came by and showed me a welding rod that I stuck into the hole and it just built up and out of the hole. Then take a pliers and unscrew the broken bolt
Iv been doing this since 14 years old. I'm not sure where you worked. Reasons why ill never go to a shop lol
Wow, I've dealt with many bolts broken in deep holes and they are always frustrating and difficult. Sometimes leading to a drill out and special inserts. This is by far the BEST method I have ever seen for getting them out while protecting the threads. Thank you for the clever and efficient method. This is now my new goto method for getting this done.
You should try stud extracting stick rod
@@jeffreykey5452 Just learned an extremely important tip that I will never forget.
I took a few welding rods with me to purchase some copper tubes. There are precious few size options to choose from for both. My small collection of materials give me somewhat limited options, but I'm ready for the next deep bolt extraction provided its the right size bolt. I could use my mig (as you did) for big bolts too, but I might need to practice some before feeling confident about doing that.
@@jeffreykey5452 I will look into this. I was not aware that such a rod was available.
Love the copper tubing trick! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Matt. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
New blind hole broken bolt extraction method acquired!
Thanks to you :)
You got 266 wd-40 users angry so far 👍
The WD-40 people were mad before this video. That stuff doesn’t work any better than kerosene and the “smart straw” makes it even worse.
And counting.....haha
The only bond breaker I use is heat . I’ve been at it for 60 years.
+1 to Mechanical Repairs
@@gregpetty4185 the only time I use it , is after the heat and it cools down some (so it doesn't smoke like a bitch) just so it unthreads a little easier ..........oops , hahahah he just said the same in the vid at this moment 😝
Me and my brother have done it like this for over 20 years. Dont remember who had shown it to us but we also used one bad screw driver for dozens of bolts. Great job on this video!!!
Im a tool maker I have gotten a shit load of broken taps bolts ejector pins you name it THAT was pretty slick with the copper tube
I always look forward to what new tricks/ideas you come up with.......I finally figured it out......the dog comes up with the ideas and clues you in....great dog!
Thanks Tom. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe..... Ginger told me to say that.
Me want dog!
@@sixtyfiveford To me, your very clever dog looks like an Australian Red Cattle Dog. Am I correct ?
@@biopsiesbeanieboos55 apparently they don't want to talk about the stolen land wow
Awesome tips! Here's another one many will be interested in to do this in tight places; I figured this out just now when I had to remove a broken water pump bolt that was sheared off flush. There was no room in the engine compartment to even think about drilling, so I decided to try my luck welding it with a stick welder with a bent rod because there wasn't even enough clearance for a mig nozzle. Since the nut had to be sideways, gravity wasn't on my side. I found that you can use masking tape to hold the nut on (probably helps shield it as well), but the surface must be very clean for it to stick; using wax & grease remover worked well, but alcohol would be just as good. With very little clearance and only seeing it sideways, the first time I didn't hit the stud first, it hit the side of the nut and failed. On my next try, I put tape over the whole nut and punched a hole in the center just big enough for the welding rod to fit through so I could position it dead center; this helped alot! I used a 1/16" 8013 rod at 40 amps DC.
Thank you sir I ran into that on my friends Cadillac what a pain and one of my Pontiac muscle cars. Why they put small bolts I don’t understand Chevy 350 are good to work on for beginners
For 20 years I've used aluminum soda cans. Cut a piece out roll I up and put it in the hole. Mig weld doesn't stick to the aluminum. I've used it to remove bolts on dozer tracks.
And is thinner than the copper tube wall...and available almost anywhere in the globe.
This also a great idea if you can't find a piece of tubing right away so thanks for your tip also~!!
You're a MASTER!
Hey, I am a 65 year old mechanic Blacksmith construction you name it. Good stuff. Never too late to learn something new. Familiar with the welding the nut on technique, however never saw the copper insert technique. Just got old school stick welders. however, could use one of those real skinny rods in there. Thanks much. You are a true Genius. PS I am a new subscriber just forwarded this to my boy who is a mechanic as well. You are the man. Keep up the great work. Feel better about my own shop and tools when I see yours. Without the tools and equipment you can't fix jack. right? Have a beautiful day thanks again. Jim
Thank you for saving my restoration of a really nice motorcycle. I was looking at trying to find a case for the engine because of a recessed broken bolt. The cases are impossible to locate. I can't Thank you enough for this video. WOW, it works.
Have known about the nut weld trick for a long time but never seen the copper tube trick. Badass man
Works good for backing a hole in metal you intend to weld closed too, so the weld doesn't drop thru as easily.
@@MrTheHillfolk (
Thank you - I’m 56 yrs old and this just taught me something new! Great information 👍🏼
Great video my friend
Just to clear up something you mention about the the bolts being under torque pressure/value of 80 to 100 lbs. Once a bolt head is broken off, the torque value is zero/static/ neutral because the bolt head flange is what stops and draws the thread of a bolt up in the opposite direction that interns applies the downward pressure measured in foot or inch pounds also stretching the bolt as much as tensile strength allows. So the only other things to deal with is corrosion, debris or cross-threaded material as you address that issue. Great job !! I learned something new in your extraction method that is solid and fool proof. I am a subscriber Thanks
Also that looks like cast alloy, no way would a bolt in that material and that small be anymore than 30 FTLBS. And it was NOT locked in he just screwed it in there.. so the copper tube is the nifty part the rest i have been doing also for 50 years..
there is torque value in the resistance of the stuck corroded thread surfaces climbing or descending the incline plane of the thread . So no need to be so critical of the wording you engineering guys LOL . IT WORKS so just use it to impress your friends
See this is why I always watch your videos. I have been watching your channel for a very long time and 99% of the time your methods are not only something I’ve never seen before but ALWAYS useful. Never something stupid or silly and can be used by new or experienced users. I may even go as far as saying this is probably the most useful channel on RUclips.
You're Awesome. I always enjoy your input.
I removed a broken O2 sensor bolt the other day. I first welded a flat washer to the broken bolt then welded the nut. Isaac from IC Welds showed me to add the washer. It insured a better welding surface. Your copper pipe trick is fantastic. I will incorporate it into my skill set. Thanks!!!
I've never seen the copper tube method before, but it's as close to perfect as it gets for this job. Using the "sacrificial screwdriver" is so simple it's brilliant. Excellent.
Amazing Mo! Can’t wait to break a bolt off, well almost.
Thanks Shaun. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
That copper tube trick to protect the threads is extremely useful. Thank you for sharing.
When my basic SIP Mig welder was misbehaving (and I was only a little further down the learning curve) I managed to get the welding wire to weld itself to the copper nozzle!
Too close, too low feed, too much juice - probably. Anyway, the tiny hole got fully blocked with wire, and no matter how hard I tugged, the wire would not break free.
It’s possible to fuse most metals together in the right (or wrong) circumstances. Low temperature brazing brass to stainless steel is one of the best examples.
Sometimes a file can fix the burnt tip if the weld isn't up inside the tip too far. Saved me from having to stop working because it was the last good one I had on the weekend when the weld shop is closed.
Using a copper pipe shield was so great for protecting the aluminum threads. I will definitely use that in my shop work.
great tip with the copper pipe, never seen that before.
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal.
That is an amazing trick with the copper tubing. I knew about welding the nut on but never thought of using something like copper tubing. next time I have that problem I'm definitely going to try that.
Copper sheet metal is great for any repairs that you are doing to aluminum also.
A friend of mine is a great TIG- welder.
When I brought him a small aluminum engine block, and asked him to weld a hole closed ... he used copper as a backing for the repair, then filled the hole with aluminum rod. The copper kept the aluminum puddle from sagging, or blowing through, and didn't stick to the repair after the area cooled.
I filed that one in my arsenal of cool tricks, for later use.
Great idea and added to my list of "how to get out of deep crapola" !!! BTW, for the same reason using copper tubing in deep broken bolts, because copper and steel will not fuse, next time you have a flush or protruding bolt ... use a copper washer under the nut you'll be welding to the bolt ... you'll not only gain more weld contact surface, it will also aid in reducing rotational forces at the beginning of the bolt unthreading process.
@Steve Scalia "Heat" always works ... good call !!!
Lassie has trained her master to throw a ball up a stair. Impressive!
Excellent work ❤thank you 😊
And the beautiful Cattle Dog got my subscription ❤❤❤
Love the way Ginger is training you.
I know!
I never used a copper pipe on a hole like that. Very nicely done, you made it look much easier than it is to do. Great job.
You literally just changed how many of us do bolt extraction. We have all seen the way to get a flush one out, but this is a game changer.
I always teach people tap down on that Bolt before anything you were the first one to show people what I've been teaching forever
You sir, are a master of ingenuity! Thanks for all of your helpful tips through the years! Great job on your videos, they get better all the time.
Thanks Man. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Man, you are seriously innovative, this is the third video I've watched of yours, and the common sense approach and tips are very useful. New subscriber!
I've never seen this extraction technique before thank you so much for sharing it!
COMPLIMENTS WE USED THE OLD WAY WHICH IS GOOD, BUT YOUR INNOVATION PROCEDURE IS
EXCELLENT
Awesome technique! Never seen this one, but noted! Also, in really tough situations you can heat the female very hot and touch a candle to the thread area after you weld on the nut or screw driver. Sucks the wax in in like solder and lubricates much better than penetrating oil. We use this method in Alaska on the rusty saltwater infested manifolds etc....works every time.......knock on wood so far.
I wuv you bro.💙
Have a head with 2 broken bolts.
5 years waiting in hibernation for a remedy. I'm so sure this will work. Fanks. 🖐
Thanks! Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I also have a head with 2 broken bolts, but I'm not sticking a welder in my ear...
@@garychandler4296 hahaha 😂😂😂👍
It's weird, as soon as I see that you were using copper tube I guessed what you'd do! It's intuitive!
Great video, I'd never have thought to use the copper as a shrowd to protect the threads.
Tip-top tip!
As a brand newbie to welding... But as a guy who has been struggling with broken bolts and aluminum wave runner heads and exhaust components for the last 15 years... I am so glad I found this video only weeks after I started to weld. And I'm also glad that I never had to learn the old way if this is the new way to get him out of the deep pockets!!
I've learned a lot from this channel over the years.
Thanks Will. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
All joking aside, these are some cool tricks.... I’ve had a few bolts bust and could always use some new tips and tricks. Thanks for the vid
I believe you can also buy stick electrodes for building up broken studs in recessed holes, I think they have a special thick flux coating to reduce any chance of the arc straying sideways onto the parent metal. I’ve always welded a large washer on first to protect the parent metal and allow the use of a larger nut. This I find gives the opportunity to really get some heat into the broken bolt/stud, which expands to break any seal, (rust etc) and when cooled slightly, will usually unscrew.
I do the same thing with a heavy washer on top then a nut welded to the washer. I use a tall enough nut so I can weld inside it and around the lower outside edge. Have never had it not work. I always weld a washer before even trying with out it. with.with out it..
@@buckshot8393 great idea brotha, that master tech.level
I've been pulling wrenches for 30+ years. Never seen the copper pipe technique before. Learnt something today! Thank you sir!
A Ford guy always knows, how to handle rusty stuff 😅 Shout out to the Ford community ✌️😎
There is a welding rod specifically made for this purpose. You just jam it down to the busted bolt, weld away until it builds up above the top of the hole. You chip the Flux off , and find a perfect shaft. The Flux fills into the threads leaving no damage. You then simply drop a nut on the shaft you built from the nut, and weld it to the shaft. They come out like butter. Can't remember the company who makes these stick welding rods as it's been over 10 years since I used them. I'm sure multiple company's are producing these buy now. Not knocking your method tho, it's a very good one.
It's a Messer 800 rod I use them in times of trouble,learned about them when airgas put on a maintance welding class.
Ain't got a mig welder.. just a stick.. like the idea.. thanks I'll give it ago!! Got a metal bolt in alloy.. going into steel broken..I think the heat will loosen it cheers 👍
Absolute gold especially on the deep bore!! Thank you!
Wow! I'm impressed! I thought I knew what I was doing in my shop but you're never too old to learn new tricks. Thank you!
Thanks.
👍 Great video and method. The bolts broken at high torque though would not seem to be an issue to me though. When the head comes off you should loose the tension unless the bolt or threads are stretched. The issue Id say especially in the lawn mower parts is moisture and corrosion.
As an aircraft mechanic if twenty years I have used Aerokroil and heat to remove steel parts from in aluminum housings and it works great. The heat expands the aluminum and the oil penetrates quite well.
I’m an A&P/IA as well, and love kroil. But what do you do when a bolt or stud is broken and recessed like this? With no exposed head to use to turn it.
The copper sleeve is an awesome idea!!!! Thank you for showing us this great trick. I wish I would have known it about 30 years ago.
Hey Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Great job with the copper tube.Thank you for your wisdom
There is a lot more to understand when metals corrode especially for two dissimliar metals.
When steel rusts it expands around 10% in volume, this puts tremendous internal pressures especially on threaded parts as they have more surface area. When the rust is combined with aluminium corrosion the bonding occuring will make the undoing torque more then the torsional strength of the bolt, hence the bolt breaks.
Actually, heating up with a blow torch does NOT always work. I did this to rusted in lock nut ont a magneto cover on a lawnmower and it did not release. The nut and shaft both heated up and cooled down, so the rust bond did not break. After talking to an older gentleman he advised me to heat it up again and cool down the nut with a water wet clothe. Sure enough this worked, as the nut cooled down first before the shaft. Penetrant oils do not work on very corroded parts especially dissimilar metals.
I am a Material Scientist, Metalwork, Woodwork and Electronics teacher. Regards, from sunny Sydney Australia.
I have 30 + shelved problem pieces that I can now address. Slightly annoyed i didn't think of it or your video did not show in my many searches. Very good solution.
Love all your videos! You save me from allot of headaches! Keep the videos coming please!
Thanks Paul. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Nicely done! Puttin' this one in the memory banks.
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
You could have removed a lot of the metal by drilling thru that copper pipe also. The pipe keeps your bit straight and centered. Weld would have more surface area to fuse to, or one could drill it out thru that pilot hole to the minimum thread diameter. Chase the threads out a bit at a time. Good video.
THAT is the whip!!!!! I can hardly believe how quickly that worked out! Like a sore weener! YOU CAN'T BEAT IT!!!!!! I very much appreciate you sharing this, brother!
What a great solution - thank you so much for sharing
Thanks Man. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
A valuable piece of knowledge. Thanks for that.
Thanks Wireguy. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
NASA GRADE INFO AND INSTRUCTIONS AGAIN!!!!! Epic mate,Thanks!!!
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Great tip, thanks for sharing! Between you and Mustie1, you guys are unstoppable! Lol
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
And Andrew Camarata
I like your idea of using a nail punch to connect the threads better. I obviously works as a center punch too. Very cool method of bolt removal, even though welding is beyond my pay grade.
Super interesting! Man, where do you come up with these amazing ideas! Excellent thanks for this video!!
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I like the first method very much, the second method I put penetrating fluid on first then I place a washer over the bolt, weld that in place then place a nut on the washer and weld that in place. I learnt it a few years ago and I have done quite a few turbo manifold into aluminium heads with success every time. Great channel 👍
Learn something new EVERYDAY! Extractions are a weakness but this is worth having in arsenal
Really impressed with that technique your using. I was a mechanic for thirty five plus years along with twenty five years of military service, with over half that time as a track and wheeled vehicle mechanic.
In that time I did my share of bolt extractions with easy outs and such.
Question: Is there any chance you've don't or could do it on a cast iron cylinder head or engine block?
Thanks for all you do for the mechanic community by taking the time to make this very informative video. I was an Army Infantry Dril Instructor / Sergeant during my military service. Your instruction knowledge and skills were superlative.
Sincerely ARNI SHOOK
Chief Warrant Officer
U.S. Army Retired
The same method works great for Cast Iron blocks.
Im Surprised with your Experience that you asked that Question the Copper is a Shield that it Wouldn't Matter which Material it was done with.. THANK YOU For your Service I have much Respect for Warrant Officers 👊🇺🇸
@@donalbershardt9290 Thanks for the reply appreciate it and your very welcome Don.
Sincerely CWO A. Shook
Got some sacraficial parts, and I'm going for it! Thanks for the tip. Good day
Thanks Karl. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Best video ever. I wish I had a dad like you when i was growing up.
I did this yesterday, without my phone around, and this morning this video pops up. RUclips is reading our minds.
Ya, it's a bit creepy sometimes how RUclips and Google does that. :/
You know a trick is legit when someone intentionally breaks their stuff then repairs it in one unbroken take 👍
The issue with a steel bolt in aluminium casting is that, irrespective of the final torque, once the bolt tension and elongation, which is the effect of torque, has been released by the bolt breaking, it is not the torque that holds the thread in place, but the formation of a molecular bond between the two dissimilar metals where the electrons of each metal cross over to form an atomic bond that must be broken. This happens over a long period of time and especially in moist conditions where a 'battery' electrical effect causes on of the metals to corrode.
Great tip for removing buried broken bolts. On the other broken bolts in the plate, after the head of the bolt breaks off there is no torque on the remaining threaded part, only the corrosion between steel and aluminum remains holding it. thanks so much for the great video.
Wow! Fantastic!!!! I can't wait to try it out!
Thanks Walt. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
“Flaring cutter” is due to a slot in the anvil of the tool being split, to clear a flare off a tube.
That was too easy, it wasnt broken off from bottoming out. That would take lots more effort to get loose.
Thanks for the copper trick. Being a Tool & Die Maker, a broken tap can turn hours of work into garbage. Will use this trick in the future.
You built this up like you're about to do a magic trick, and I'll be damned if didn't do a magic trick.
Woah woah woah there champ, aerokroil is a god in my shop! Lol. Just messing with ya. Nice video! I will definitely be using this method from now on. Thanks!
How does somebody no older than you have this much wisdom?
There's wisdom, and then there's experience. He's out there doing what he loves and figuring out how to be as efficient as possible.
Wow, that was super clever! I have never came up with that idea! These type of videos is what still making RUclips a great platform!
I closed my eyes every time you zapped that gun. Lol
You are Psycho... I mean Psychic! I literally broke an exhaust manifold stud on my Ranger's head last night! Thanks!
Thanks Jason. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
My 2 cents on exhaust manifold fasteners is heat them 5 times up and down before trying to remove them.
@@danburque2910
What do you mean 5 times?
There is nothing easy about an easy out.
Well said.
There is nothing out about an easy out either.
They are called the wrong thing they should be called hard outs.
Most of the time if you can get it out with an e.z out , you can get it out with a punch and hammer .
Awesome trick! As I get older, I keep learning tricks I wish I’d known much earlier
Yeah you screwed the bolt in let's see you do that on actual broken froze bolt