Extract Broken bolts from deep hole NEW easy WAY
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2021
- My bolt extractors are collecting dust. If you don't own a welder, this trick will pay for itself in one go. This is the first time I've ever shown this trick and I have never seen anyone else use the copper pipe. However, I'm sure someone out in the vast world has also come up with the idea as well and will quickly point it out to me. This is my go to method but there are still scenarios where a reverse drill bit would be my first choice as that is probably the quickest. However if those don't bite I move onto the welder/copper pipe.
Get your own reverse drill bits: amzn.to/3rhX0jB
With Mig or Flux:
Do it just like I show and don't burn away your copper. Go slow. On bolts over 1/2-5/8" you can also insert a steel pipe/tube inside your copper. Weld down the center and weld the steel pipe to the bolt. The copper will protect the threads. You don't need to fill the entire center to the top, just enough to bond the steel tube to the bolt. Twist out the steel tube/bolt assembly. This works best with large bolts.
With stick welder:
The flux helps insulate the sides. If the hole is large enough(1/2"+ bolt), insert a copper pipe to protect the threads and then a steel pipe inside the copper. You jamb the electrode down inside the steel and the rod will weld itself and the steel tube to the bolt. Throw a pipe wrench on the steel tube and pull it out. The larger the hole the better this method works. You can use this method with smaller bolts and just the copper but you have to be a GOOD stick welder.
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So after watching this video, I had a customer bring me a truck flywheel with a broken stud deep in the hole. Did exactly what you did in this video, and it came out very easy.. made 100$ ... so where do I send you cut?
That's fantastic. I'm glad you tried it.
@@cuttersgoose youtube now reads human minds i swear lol
@@jamescole2266 lol...wouldnt suprise
@@jamescole2266 yeah...it does something, all right.
It's listening to you talk
welder+ scrap heap = most of the specialized tools you'll ever need. awesome
Thanks Ryan. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
You forgot the "mechanical inclination" that is needed.
99% of the population couldn't extract a broken stud, if you gave them a MIG-welder, a broken screwdriver, and a cup of black coffee.
I learned about welding a nut over a broken bolt many years ago. Using the welder to remove a deep set broken bolt is a mind blowing game changer. So simple, yet so perfect. Well done man!
Thanks Corey. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I'm that *guy* who you mentioned lol, I have figured out the same trick! I've done it a handful of times, and it gets easier after the first time lol... I'm sure you know another one where a large recessed stud can be blown out of an alloy casing with a torch (if it's in a blind spot where you can't see) but that's industrial level shenanigans
@@campbellpaul could you elaborate please?
@@southernshop8424 If a casing is zinc alloy metal, a broken bolt can be burned through using oxy acetylene without damaging the female threads. It is only practical, however, on large municipal water pumps that cannot easily be dismantled, but where a torch can still reach. The bolts break from metal fatigue caused by vibration... It's a practical solution to a most unusual problem, so please forgive me for mentioning it.
@@campbellpaul As an ex-Coast Guard Machinery Tech, I concur. Not for the squeamish!
As soon as you showed the copper pipe it clicked - "Of course!" Why didn't I ever think about that!? Genius! I've used brass and copper so support flat weld repairs, but I've never put two and two together for deep bolt/stud repairs. Absolute genius. Thank you.
Been a machinist for about 55 years, and I'm embarrassed to admit that I've never seen this technique before. Not sure that it'd work for most situations, but I'm willing to try it out. Thanks for the new option.
Glad you liked it
Been a barber 42 yrs. My favorite thing is when a young (or old) hairstylist shows me something I've never seen before. Life is learning.
@@saltycreole2673 I'm in the porn industry and I like when the young pornstars show me something new
I’m in the same boat. It seem brilliant and I did learn a new way, even with 40 years of experience.
Anybody that gives this a thumbs down has never had to remove a broken off recessed bolt. Thanks for the tips and, I had a sixtyfourford.
Anybody who gives this a thumb down can go smoke a pickle. Every video Moe puts out has valuable content. If you don't agree, just go away.
Old heating system thermocouples are also good sources of copper tubing.
Thanks Guys. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
They should make it that if you give a thumbs down you have say why. Then maybe we can find out what these numb nuts are on about.
I'd agree with that never seen or even thought of that way before always reached for the blow torch when I've been in that situation. Luv these golden nuggets of information, tips an tricks or what ever you wanna call it. 👍
I have been doing this for 35 years with a arc welder. It is great to have guys like you with a youtube channel to show stuff like this. RUclips is like a encyclopedia of knowledge and experience.
That is awesome!
👍😘
WERE YOU USEING THE COPPER TUBEING ??
@@joeJrbill he was using the copper tubing for a barrier from threads and a mold for molten metal from welder.
It’s amazing how many unique techniques we take to grave, sharing is caring!
I have been doing weld bolt extraction for decades, but using a copper pipe to shield the threads was brand new to me. Excellent! No need to run a tap through a weld-damaged hole.
Me and my brother have done it like this for over 20 years. Dont remember who had shown it to us but we also used one bad screw driver for dozens of bolts. Great job on this video!!!
I worked in a shop that rebuilt gas turbines from aircraft and power generators.
Lots of broken fasteners of all shapes and sizes. The welders were like magicians with their extraction techniques. Much respect.
It’s an art that separates the men from the boys. Anyone can work on clean perfect parts
@@Eastahtata ditto
This is the best tutorial out there for removing broken bolts.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Wow, I've dealt with many bolts broken in deep holes and they are always frustrating and difficult. Sometimes leading to a drill out and special inserts. This is by far the BEST method I have ever seen for getting them out while protecting the threads. Thank you for the clever and efficient method. This is now my new goto method for getting this done.
You should try stud extracting stick rod
@@jeffreykey5452 Just learned an extremely important tip that I will never forget.
I took a few welding rods with me to purchase some copper tubes. There are precious few size options to choose from for both. My small collection of materials give me somewhat limited options, but I'm ready for the next deep bolt extraction provided its the right size bolt. I could use my mig (as you did) for big bolts too, but I might need to practice some before feeling confident about doing that.
@@jeffreykey5452 I will look into this. I was not aware that such a rod was available.
This is what I love about RUclips, kind people like yourself taking the trouble to share knowledge. Thanks for the video.
Amazing! I have been wrenching and welding nuts on bolts for 20 years and never seen the copper tube trick...I will be using this at some point I'm sure. Thank you so much for sharing.
When welding out a broken bolt that sticks out, tack on a flat washer that fits the bolt.
This increases the inside diameter of the nut you can use. which allows you to add more heat to the bolt and the material it is in. The flat washer tends to protect the host material better, too.
It also helps to pour some water on the red hot nut , which shrinks the bolt even more, making it easier to extract.
When trying to extract an especially stubborn bolt out of steel, I have found that an overnight soak with a 10% Acetone/90% auto trans fluid mix really helps as well.
And here I thought I'd seen all the broken bolt removal methods. That copper pipe is genius. The screwdriver is a cherry on top. Great stuff.
I have been using the welded nut method to remove broken bolts for years. In 2008 I started working at a trucking company where the mechanics had been trying to drill out broken exhaust manifold bolts. When they screwed up the cylinder head trying to remove the bolt, they would replace the cylinder head. I showed the other mechanics they method and saved the company thousands of dollars. I couldn’t believe the other mechanics had never used that method before!
I worked as a maintenance man for a big company and one day a salesman came by and showed me a welding rod that I stuck into the hole and it just built up and out of the hole. Then take a pliers and unscrew the broken bolt
I've been doing it this way for decades. Nice to know somebody is passing this knowledge along.
I come from the auto repair environment and for twenty years I have been using extractors, but I have to say that welding will be integrated in my business quickly, thanks to you. Thanks a bunch for sharing you tips. 💪👌
It's such a time saver. I hope you try it out.
I fucking hate using extractors. They love to break off in the fastener you're trying to remove. Just did one a couple days ago. Got lucky and was able to remove the end of the extractor and finish drilling all the way through the bolt and ran a smaller bolt through the hole in the stuck bolt and used a nut to secure the headlight onto the radiator support. Luckily it was a very low stress point so it didn't need much to hold the corner of the light in place.
I've never seen this extraction technique before thank you so much for sharing it!
That copper tube trick to protect the threads is extremely useful. Thank you for sharing.
When my basic SIP Mig welder was misbehaving (and I was only a little further down the learning curve) I managed to get the welding wire to weld itself to the copper nozzle!
Too close, too low feed, too much juice - probably. Anyway, the tiny hole got fully blocked with wire, and no matter how hard I tugged, the wire would not break free.
It’s possible to fuse most metals together in the right (or wrong) circumstances. Low temperature brazing brass to stainless steel is one of the best examples.
Sometimes a file can fix the burnt tip if the weld isn't up inside the tip too far. Saved me from having to stop working because it was the last good one I had on the weekend when the weld shop is closed.
I have been a mechanic for 15 years and i gotta say thank you. this already saved me twice now and will save me a ton in the future.
Great to hear!
New blind hole broken bolt extraction method acquired!
Thanks to you :)
You got 266 wd-40 users angry so far 👍
The WD-40 people were mad before this video. That stuff doesn’t work any better than kerosene and the “smart straw” makes it even worse.
And counting.....haha
The only bond breaker I use is heat . I’ve been at it for 60 years.
+1 to Mechanical Repairs
@@gregpetty4185 the only time I use it , is after the heat and it cools down some (so it doesn't smoke like a bitch) just so it unthreads a little easier ..........oops , hahahah he just said the same in the vid at this moment 😝
I've been pulling wrenches for 30+ years. Never seen the copper pipe technique before. Learnt something today! Thank you sir!
Wow! I'm impressed! I thought I knew what I was doing in my shop but you're never too old to learn new tricks. Thank you!
Thanks.
Love the copper tubing trick! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Matt. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I always look forward to what new tricks/ideas you come up with.......I finally figured it out......the dog comes up with the ideas and clues you in....great dog!
Thanks Tom. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe..... Ginger told me to say that.
Me want dog!
@@sixtyfiveford To me, your very clever dog looks like an Australian Red Cattle Dog. Am I correct ?
@@biopsiesbeanieboos55 apparently they don't want to talk about the stolen land wow
Using a copper pipe shield was so great for protecting the aluminum threads. I will definitely use that in my shop work.
I removed a broken O2 sensor bolt the other day. I first welded a flat washer to the broken bolt then welded the nut. Isaac from IC Welds showed me to add the washer. It insured a better welding surface. Your copper pipe trick is fantastic. I will incorporate it into my skill set. Thanks!!!
Amazing Mo! Can’t wait to break a bolt off, well almost.
Thanks Shaun. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Absolute gold especially on the deep bore!! Thank you!
Thank you - I’m 56 yrs old and this just taught me something new! Great information 👍🏼
Wow, I wish I had seen this years ago. I worked at a sawmill and had to remove grade 10, 3/4" X 2-1/2" bolts broken off well below the flat part of the machine. I used a short welding rod, 7018. It was in a bearinged casing, so I had to start the weld and have someone pull the ground off as I welded. The welding rod would then stick to the bolt and I would (most times) be able to turn the bolt out. Lots of anti-seaze would then be placed on the new bolt and torqued to 110 ft lbs. Every weekend. It started with just the back three bolts (every weekend I would replace the back three, broken or not, plus the ones on either side of the broken ones). Then five, when it got to 11 or so , the company finally put a new ring and bearing on. The new ring had 7/8" bolts that went all the way through and had nuts on the other side. This machine picked three to four logs at time to put up on the log deck. Most of the logs were 40 to 44 ft long and about (on average) 12" in diameter. That was my first machine center I had in that sawmill. I worked that machine center for the first 3 or 4 years, then I got to move inside the building. Thanks for the fine memories. LOL
Have known about the nut weld trick for a long time but never seen the copper tube trick. Badass man
Works good for backing a hole in metal you intend to weld closed too, so the weld doesn't drop thru as easily.
@@MrTheHillfolk (
I love this info! when purging the hole with gas. Consider setting wire feesd to zero so not to have to deal with the push out you’re experiencing. Awesome job!
As a brand newbie to welding... But as a guy who has been struggling with broken bolts and aluminum wave runner heads and exhaust components for the last 15 years... I am so glad I found this video only weeks after I started to weld. And I'm also glad that I never had to learn the old way if this is the new way to get him out of the deep pockets!!
For 20 years I've used aluminum soda cans. Cut a piece out roll I up and put it in the hole. Mig weld doesn't stick to the aluminum. I've used it to remove bolts on dozer tracks.
And is thinner than the copper tube wall...and available almost anywhere in the globe.
Thank you for saving my restoration of a really nice motorcycle. I was looking at trying to find a case for the engine because of a recessed broken bolt. The cases are impossible to locate. I can't Thank you enough for this video. WOW, it works.
I believe you can also buy stick electrodes for building up broken studs in recessed holes, I think they have a special thick flux coating to reduce any chance of the arc straying sideways onto the parent metal. I’ve always welded a large washer on first to protect the parent metal and allow the use of a larger nut. This I find gives the opportunity to really get some heat into the broken bolt/stud, which expands to break any seal, (rust etc) and when cooled slightly, will usually unscrew.
I do the same thing with a heavy washer on top then a nut welded to the washer. I use a tall enough nut so I can weld inside it and around the lower outside edge. Have never had it not work. I always weld a washer before even trying with out it. with.with out it..
@@buckshot8393 great idea brotha, that master tech.level
Oh man! I needed this. I knew about welding a nut on but never saw this method for one recessed deep like this. My son was putting taking of the water pump on my Bronco and broke a bolt way down in through the timing cover. Haven't really had time to do much other than trying to use and easy out (which was not working) I will have to try the copper tubing trick. Thanks for the video!
Awesome tips! Here's another one many will be interested in to do this in tight places; I figured this out just now when I had to remove a broken water pump bolt that was sheared off flush. There was no room in the engine compartment to even think about drilling, so I decided to try my luck welding it with a stick welder with a bent rod because there wasn't even enough clearance for a mig nozzle. Since the nut had to be sideways, gravity wasn't on my side. I found that you can use masking tape to hold the nut on (probably helps shield it as well), but the surface must be very clean for it to stick; using wax & grease remover worked well, but alcohol would be just as good. With very little clearance and only seeing it sideways, the first time I didn't hit the stud first, it hit the side of the nut and failed. On my next try, I put tape over the whole nut and punched a hole in the center just big enough for the welding rod to fit through so I could position it dead center; this helped alot! I used a 1/16" 8013 rod at 40 amps DC.
Thank you sir I ran into that on my friends Cadillac what a pain and one of my Pontiac muscle cars. Why they put small bolts I don’t understand Chevy 350 are good to work on for beginners
great tip with the copper pipe, never seen that before.
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal.
That is an amazing trick with the copper tubing. I knew about welding the nut on but never thought of using something like copper tubing. next time I have that problem I'm definitely going to try that.
Copper sheet metal is great for any repairs that you are doing to aluminum also.
A friend of mine is a great TIG- welder.
When I brought him a small aluminum engine block, and asked him to weld a hole closed ... he used copper as a backing for the repair, then filled the hole with aluminum rod. The copper kept the aluminum puddle from sagging, or blowing through, and didn't stick to the repair after the area cooled.
I filed that one in my arsenal of cool tricks, for later use.
Happy to see this. Never did it with a wire feeder. Two things. Copper does bond to steel when done properly. Penetrating lubricant with HOT stuff. Beeswax. Been used by steam fitters for many years. Great video!!
After being a mechanic for 50 years and and thinking outside the box while Macgyvering many unique problems to solve . I am impressed you taught an old dog a new trick i cant wait to try! Thanks
I never used a copper pipe on a hole like that. Very nicely done, you made it look much easier than it is to do. Great job.
Very nice video and very relevant demonstration especially the usage of the copper in this context. Congratulations and thank you very much.
This is what I love about youtube. People helping people. Thanks for the tip!
I've never seen the copper tube method before, but it's as close to perfect as it gets for this job. Using the "sacrificial screwdriver" is so simple it's brilliant. Excellent.
You sir, are a master of ingenuity! Thanks for all of your helpful tips through the years! Great job on your videos, they get better all the time.
Thanks Man. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I've used the latter of the 2 methods.
But the recessed copper tube method is brilliant!!
Thanks for the video!
Wow, that was super clever! I have never came up with that idea! These type of videos is what still making RUclips a great platform!
Love the way Ginger is training you.
I know!
See this is why I always watch your videos. I have been watching your channel for a very long time and 99% of the time your methods are not only something I’ve never seen before but ALWAYS useful. Never something stupid or silly and can be used by new or experienced users. I may even go as far as saying this is probably the most useful channel on RUclips.
You're Awesome. I always enjoy your input.
Finally a video that actually knows how to remove broken bolts. I don't know how many I've commented on. Rounded heads, same solution. People using easy outs or completely redrilling and tapping holes or grinding slots and using a screwdriver etc. Those are things you do if you don't have a MIG.
For bound up threads, heat is your friend.
It's weird, as soon as I see that you were using copper tube I guessed what you'd do! It's intuitive!
Great video, I'd never have thought to use the copper as a shrowd to protect the threads.
Tip-top tip!
Hey, I am a 65 year old mechanic Blacksmith construction you name it. Good stuff. Never too late to learn something new. Familiar with the welding the nut on technique, however never saw the copper insert technique. Just got old school stick welders. however, could use one of those real skinny rods in there. Thanks much. You are a true Genius. PS I am a new subscriber just forwarded this to my boy who is a mechanic as well. You are the man. Keep up the great work. Feel better about my own shop and tools when I see yours. Without the tools and equipment you can't fix jack. right? Have a beautiful day thanks again. Jim
DUDE!! That’s the best extraction I’ve ever seen, and I have watched a lot of them. Brilliant! And came along at the perfect time for what I’ve got going on. Thank you for this video
Hey Thanks.
A Ford guy always knows, how to handle rusty stuff 😅 Shout out to the Ford community ✌️😎
You literally just changed how many of us do bolt extraction. We have all seen the way to get a flush one out, but this is a game changer.
All joking aside, these are some cool tricks.... I’ve had a few bolts bust and could always use some new tips and tricks. Thanks for the vid
Man, you are seriously innovative, this is the third video I've watched of yours, and the common sense approach and tips are very useful. New subscriber!
Amazing. Great process, thank you for sharing!
Man this is an awesome trick! I wish I knew about this year's ago! Thank you for sharing.
I wuv you bro.💙
Have a head with 2 broken bolts.
5 years waiting in hibernation for a remedy. I'm so sure this will work. Fanks. 🖐
Thanks! Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I also have a head with 2 broken bolts, but I'm not sticking a welder in my ear...
@@garychandler4296 hahaha 😂😂😂👍
Great idea and added to my list of "how to get out of deep crapola" !!! BTW, for the same reason using copper tubing in deep broken bolts, because copper and steel will not fuse, next time you have a flush or protruding bolt ... use a copper washer under the nut you'll be welding to the bolt ... you'll not only gain more weld contact surface, it will also aid in reducing rotational forces at the beginning of the bolt unthreading process.
@Steve Scalia "Heat" always works ... good call !!!
I’m super impressed! Never seen that before. Well done 👍🏻
I like the first method very much, the second method I put penetrating fluid on first then I place a washer over the bolt, weld that in place then place a nut on the washer and weld that in place. I learnt it a few years ago and I have done quite a few turbo manifold into aluminium heads with success every time. Great channel 👍
Great video my friend
Just to clear up something you mention about the the bolts being under torque pressure/value of 80 to 100 lbs. Once a bolt head is broken off, the torque value is zero/static/ neutral because the bolt head flange is what stops and draws the thread of a bolt up in the opposite direction that interns applies the downward pressure measured in foot or inch pounds also stretching the bolt as much as tensile strength allows. So the only other things to deal with is corrosion, debris or cross-threaded material as you address that issue. Great job !! I learned something new in your extraction method that is solid and fool proof. I am a subscriber Thanks
Also that looks like cast alloy, no way would a bolt in that material and that small be anymore than 30 FTLBS. And it was NOT locked in he just screwed it in there.. so the copper tube is the nifty part the rest i have been doing also for 50 years..
there is torque value in the resistance of the stuck corroded thread surfaces climbing or descending the incline plane of the thread . So no need to be so critical of the wording you engineering guys LOL . IT WORKS so just use it to impress your friends
A valuable piece of knowledge. Thanks for that.
Thanks Wireguy. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
You've taught me so much over the years with your videos
OMG! Wish I had thought about sleeving the hole in my problem threaded fastener snapped off. Will try this TODAY! Thank you so much for posting this EXTREMELY INGENIOUS method!
Lassie has trained her master to throw a ball up a stair. Impressive!
Great tip, well explained and executed. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome technique! Never seen this one, but noted! Also, in really tough situations you can heat the female very hot and touch a candle to the thread area after you weld on the nut or screw driver. Sucks the wax in in like solder and lubricates much better than penetrating oil. We use this method in Alaska on the rusty saltwater infested manifolds etc....works every time.......knock on wood so far.
Enjoyed watching you and the dog. Never saw this technique because I use copper sometimes when welding sheet metal to fill holes and put behind gaps. Nice job.
Brass shim stock wrapped around a screwdriver two three times to get the thickness you need so you don't blow through ,then insert in to the bolt hole . Good job on a new twist from days gone by.
AT 3:20, you kinda answered your own question ( and you may already know, but this is for those that don't). The pipe cutter is part of the flaring kit. Propane lines, kerosene lines, and alot of mobile homes use flared fittings. BTW, that triangle piece on the back of the cutter is used, too. You cut the pipe with the cutter, then you take that triangle part and stick in the end of the pipe you're getting ready to flare and twist it around, like deburring, only deeper (getting it ready to flare). Doing that keeps the end of the pipe from splitting when you flare it. I like to take some sandpaper and run that around the outer edge of the pipe (to get rid of any micro splits that could turn into bigger splits). Slide the nut onto the pipe and then stick the end of the pipe into the flaring tool block (making sure it's in the correct OD hole), to where the end of the pipe is on the side that's countersunk and flush with the surface of the block. Secure the flaring tool onto the block and screw it down so the point goes into the pipe, flaring it. Take it down tight, but don't overtighten (or you'll split the end of the pipe, rendering it useless). You can see the pipe flare out and fill the countersunk area. It's done. I like to take the sandpaper to the end of the pipe again, as it has to mate up with a machined fitting and I want a good seal.
👍 Great video and method. The bolts broken at high torque though would not seem to be an issue to me though. When the head comes off you should loose the tension unless the bolt or threads are stretched. The issue Id say especially in the lawn mower parts is moisture and corrosion.
THAT is the whip!!!!! I can hardly believe how quickly that worked out! Like a sore weener! YOU CAN'T BEAT IT!!!!!! I very much appreciate you sharing this, brother!
What a great solution - thank you so much for sharing
Thanks Man. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
This is truly next level stuff and I'm not at all surprised you showed me something I never knew existed, and I'm no spring chicken. awesome stuff !
Wow, thank you!
thank you for video. i have used the welding nut on for 45 years. but the copper pipe is a game changer. a lot of parts you can't get any more can be saved. take care, be safe and well.
Dude. I have had a bolt stuck in a windshield bracket for my harley for years, it has a easy out broken in it. I put a spot weld on top of spot weld using my fluxcore welder until the nub was out of the hole, welded a nut on the end and out it came. Saved me a bunch of money on a new bracket... thanks for the info.
Great video! This is an old trick that is used in machine shops, one of those things that are kept under wraps. Don’t want to give our money making secrets away. Now the cat is out of the bag!!!!!!!
Meow
Hiss
One of the best ways to remove a broken tap!
Got some sacraficial parts, and I'm going for it! Thanks for the tip. Good day
Thanks Karl. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Very clever! Thanks for sharing that. I'll definitely use this at some point
Great video!👍
Same way my uncle does in his machining shop.
Done this and you are absolutely right it works awesome. Good info for the stuck broken bolt . 😎👍 Don't forget when doing this after the broken bolt is removed always chase your threads with a tap a new bolt will also work if you don't have a tap and die kit.
Love all your videos! You save me from allot of headaches! Keep the videos coming please!
Thanks Paul. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I've learned a lot from this channel over the years.
Thanks Will. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Every time I watch your video I gain new knowledge, can't thank you enough for sharing all you know with us all.
Hey thanks
You can use an impact on very low setting on the nuts when they don't wanna come out just a little bit one side then the other. The vibrations help loosen it up especially if there's any rust on that thread.
Thanks for this invaluable information. I feel more confident now against those pesky broken bolts.
As an aircraft mechanic if twenty years I have used Aerokroil and heat to remove steel parts from in aluminum housings and it works great. The heat expands the aluminum and the oil penetrates quite well.
I’m an A&P/IA as well, and love kroil. But what do you do when a bolt or stud is broken and recessed like this? With no exposed head to use to turn it.
This is awesome. Thank you for taking the time to teach us this technique. Some more knowledge in my toolbox from a good teacher!
Excellent technique. Thanks for the great lesson. 😁
Awwww MAN! Wish I'd seen this last year when I broke two slide bolts deep in my front brakes. That would have saved me SOOO much headache. Great video!
The copper sleeve is an awesome idea!!!! Thank you for showing us this great trick. I wish I would have known it about 30 years ago.
Hey Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Great job with the copper tube.Thank you for your wisdom
There is a lot more to understand when metals corrode especially for two dissimliar metals.
When steel rusts it expands around 10% in volume, this puts tremendous internal pressures especially on threaded parts as they have more surface area. When the rust is combined with aluminium corrosion the bonding occuring will make the undoing torque more then the torsional strength of the bolt, hence the bolt breaks.
Actually, heating up with a blow torch does NOT always work. I did this to rusted in lock nut ont a magneto cover on a lawnmower and it did not release. The nut and shaft both heated up and cooled down, so the rust bond did not break. After talking to an older gentleman he advised me to heat it up again and cool down the nut with a water wet clothe. Sure enough this worked, as the nut cooled down first before the shaft. Penetrant oils do not work on very corroded parts especially dissimilar metals.
I am a Material Scientist, Metalwork, Woodwork and Electronics teacher. Regards, from sunny Sydney Australia.
Very educational and interesting 🤔 I'd like to say it's always good to see other new ideas and custom ways to work things out where it is less stress I've welded in the past a lot over at WES T RANS which I worked for almost 9 years I will definitely give this a whirl
Very good! I learned the year 1981 at a coustom exhaust shop from a very good teacher at Winkel auto in NH how to extract rusty broken bolts as did every snow belt mechanic. I moved to FL in 1992 my snow belt training payed off big time most mechanics don't even know how to weld or torch I would get one hour labor for each broken bolt after getting paid to gain acces flat rate pay.
Great video and love the copper thread protector trick...Been attempting to drill out a Grade 8 bolt broken off deep inside a 9/16 bolt on a tractor motor . Extremely hard to drill out. This trick might just save me a lot of time. ..Thanks for sharing....