DIY Mercedes 7 speed 722.9 transmission service
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
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This transmission service is for the Mercedes 722.9 7G Tronic 7 speed transmission without torque converter. With a torque converter there are additional steps for draining the torque converter. Mercedes recommends this service every 40k miles on AMG cars, may be the same on non-AMG cars, check your owners manual. I'm doing this on my 2014 ML63, there may be some small differences on what's in the way or not on C, E, CLS, G, and S class. It should be the same on GL and GLE class.
I'm pretty sure the engine needs to be running while you let the excess drain out. Other tutorials and every trans I've filled have been done this way.
You better change that fluid and filter again including the Torque Converter ASAP!
New transmission from Mercedes is 8,500.00 Ask me how I know. I now service my own Vehicle. The Torque Converter is located on the bell housing, Most Mercedes 722.9 have a Oval rubber grommet that just pulls off, Get a 1/2 ratchet and (low profile) socket 27mm I believe (Not 100% sure on size) but turn the engine (Bolt on Front of Crankshaft) until you can see the small screw in the torque Converter, remove, and let drain. You will need a new screw for torque Converter and have 10 quarts of fluid on hand. Also do your Transfer Case while you are there. Add an extra quart for that. Thanks for the Video and I hope this helps someone save the 8500.00! HAPPY NEW YEAR!
It doesn't have a torque converter. 722.9's before 2012 have one, after 2012 do not (I think). This one is a 2014.
Either way Change the Fluid and Filter again, you'll be happy you did. Also do your Transfer case. It's only a quart.
@@McMedics I think this is specific to the AMG 63 models after 2012, where the torque converter was replaced by multi-disk wet clutch (Mercedes call it an "MCT") that as far as I know is not serviceable like the Torque Converter models. So pretty much all you can do is change the fluid in the gearbox itself like you did.
One thing I did want to ask though was that after changing the fluid, did you reset your transmission adaptations? I believe that is usually recommended, but wasn't sure if the Autel model you were using has that capability.
@@BalanBro2 The Autel I've got does do it, and I did do it, but it isn't required. Every 40 shifts it relearns the pattern anyway.
Great video, and here is some additional info:- If it is the 722.9 transmission with stop / start, then there is an electric auxilary pump underneath, held in place with 2 bolts, This has to be removed, and the TC is visible. You then have to crank the engine slowly until the TC drain stud comes into view, remove it and leave the TC to drain itself naturally.
With this method you only changed the fluid in the pan. There's still old fluid left in the trans oil coolers and the torque converter which you didn't flush out. You'd have to take off the return line to the pan and continue to add new fluid until the old fluid is flushed out from those components.
You'd be right if you weren't wrong. After 2012 they don't have torque converters and the Mercedes factory service manual says to do it how I did it. You never want to change out 100% of transmission fluid either, in any car.
@@McMedics as Mercedes tech who works at dealership I know that's incorrect. We flush the whole system and refill it with new fluid when doing so. I've done hundreds of these. There are also some torque converters from late/after 2012, you're thinking of DCT systems with wet clutches. The w204 c63 had a TC up to early 2013
Maybe follow the Mercedes manual then? I'm not thinking of a DCT, those you'd drain completely. The 2014 this video is of doesn't have a torque converter or a DCT.
@@McMedics I see. Makes sense then. I was just saying how we do it at the dealership and we usually do the return line flush. Obviously if you have no torque converter there's nothing to drain so that makes sense for your car.
dont remove those ckutch metals bro
I believe your supposed to run through P D N R and leave the car running while you check the level correct me if im wrong
I'm not aware of having to do that, but I can tell you it's been flawless operation since doing it in this video, even doing autocross.
After filling the transmission, you cycle it a few times through all the functions, D, N, R and P. In Sport and Comfort modes. Leaving it in each 20 seconds or so. Then leaving it in P and with the engine running, check the temperature, and then open the filler valve, and allow the excess to drain, or as the case may be, to top it up. Hope that this is of some help.
The Mercedes factory documentation does not say to do that.
@@jmreire1 yes engine must be running, it's verry important
You are right
I like your lift and it is really a great video. Thank you so much for your awesome video.
Never knew you had an AMG! Thumbs up
Nice I’m getting ready to do mine in my gle63s. Like you I have a lift and intend on saving the $2000 doing it myself
Hello great video!! I recently picked up a 200 6CLS 500 with a known transmission issue. Seller stated he took it to the dealership when the issue started which was only having R D1 & D2 when The transmission would attempt to make the shift from 2 - 3 there was no gear engagement and the RPMs would spike.
I was able to pull The following codes 0730 / 2505 / 2502 / P210F6-016 related to the transmission. I have done a decent amount of Research regarding the 722.9. When digging into the codes mentioned above a little further and was able to find a document showing what solenoids were called upon for each gear from what I can gather so far it looks like my issue service is K1 one is to activate.
My troubleshooting process so far has been as follows > checked the connection at the transmission it was wet so I cleaned and dried it > cleared fault codes same problem remained and displayed same fault codes was unable to pull freeze frame data > checked transmission fluid level and was short by a little less than 1/2 qt topped it off, cleared codes > same problem remained and displayed same fault codes > Dropped the pan discovered one rectangular slotted magnet when viewing videos of others I’ve seen Additional magnets > rectangular magnet was pretty dirty but no shavings and or chunks (previous owner stated the dealership flushed the transmission so I would assume they cleaned any shavings but was not mentioned to me by the seller) > I now have the valve body on the bench all of the contact points for the solenoids are dirty but the screens are clear of any major debris buildup > all solenoids show a resistance of 5 ohms //// is it safe to put 12 V to the solenoid’s to check their function?
I do know and understand that these transmissions especially the early version are problematic and if the conductor plate needs replaced it is best to replace with a newer plate and valve body as well as the virginizing > personalizing > activating process. I wont go to the dealer, so I'm considering Abrites if programming is needed.
At this point I am looking for some advice from the experts as to what else I can look at when I separate the valve body to clean it up, additional and or better troubleshooting procedures etc... I am burnt out from all of the 722.9 reading and video watching!
I'm by no means an expert on transmissions, but that conductor plate may be your entire issue. I'd clean up this solenoids, get a new conductor plate on it and see where you're at. It's my understanding most shifting issues are caused by that plate.
Great video,thank you!
There is away you can remove 100% of the old oil so you see new oil blue color, since you have started the engine the old oil in Torque Converter got mixed with new oil. I am not sure how to do it but there on front right side corner top of the pan an outlet to remove old oil by litres. Basically you need to connect a hose and start the engine to drain one litre and turn off the engine to add one litre through main pan drain hole as you did earlier. Continue doing so till you see new blue oil coming out from the torque.
This transmission doesn't have a torque converter. Early versions of it did, 2012 and newer do not. Torque converter cars have a separate drain for it.
⚠️722.9 Fluid MUST be set with engine RUNNING and fluid at 45C temperature.... Setting with the engine off in this video results in an UNDERFILLED fluid level that will cause long term damage.
3 years later, still going strong, towing and all.
100% agree..The engine must be running to let fluid circulating during the level set.
Brilliant clear and simple.
You can also drain the torque converter's fluid also for better fluid colour and flush.
For draining torque converter fluid you have to remove extra oil pressure pump which is outside the system and underneath it you can see the bolt for torque fluid.
You have to have a torque converter to drain it. 722.9's from 2012 on don't have one.
@@McMedics you have to mention that AMG ML63 don't have TC drain screw but W166 ML350, 400 they do have one under aux pump. It's in the Merc WIS... check it your self.
I do have 2015 W166 ML350 and it has TC drain...
@@peterszelas9417 Hey Peter. Did you have to lift up the transfer case to get to the aux pump on the W166 ML350. Was looking on WIS and I can see there's a frame that goes under that pump. Any tips as I am looking to do mine soon and want to do the full flush (including draining the TC). Thanks
PLEASE LINK THE PUMP YOU USED
I did this on my 2014 E63 today. Super simple. Only difference is I pumped about 6L in, turned vehicle on, let the transmission come up to 45C then drained excess and done.
So you changed only 4 liters out of 10 liters, do you think that is enough?
10 liters are only needed if you have one with a torque converter, 2014's do not, so it doesn't use 10 liters.
@@McMedics Ok thanks for one clarifying answer
its almost exaclty 5.6 quartz on almost all benz trans
Nice video. Very easy to follow. I like your attention to detail. 1) Can you tell me the brand and model of your lift, and does it fit in a standard residential garage that has garbage door opener? 2) Also, the model number of your Autel scanner. Thank you in advance.
There is something in common but this is not exactly the correct way to do this. You have to put 6 or 6 1/2 litters of oil. Oil amount depends from if you drained the oil from the GB converter in front of the engine block. You have to use the gears while worming up the oil - D, R, P and back so as manual if possible. The bolts are not properly tighten as well. Well a lot of mistakes were made. But good effort...
Great video, thanks, appreciate it. By the way, does your transmission have a Torque Converter ? (just joking after reading the comments;)
where do buy the compatible diagnostic tool for 722.9, and which one would you recommend?
Many of the Autel models are useful on them.
Did not stop the car engine and then measure it before putting the plug in. As I did not hear the engine sound at the time when you were putting the drain plug. It is supposed to be checked while engine is running..
Hello Could you please advise if it is necessary after ATF oil change to recalibrate gear ratios (electronically) as Mercedes recommends? Or is it just overkill ? Thank you
Gear ratios don't change with fluid.
@@McMedics Thanks for your answer. I had asked Mercedes for a transmission fluid change but they asked for 500+ euros. I complained it was expensive then they told me complicated stuff needed to be done after transmission fluid change. I think this may be commercial gimmick to discourage people from DIY ? What do you think ? Thanks
They have to justify the cost to people somehow. That would also discourage trying to do it yourself when they say things like that are required. There are McLaren dealers that tell people they need to charge $600 to change the battery in their key fob because it's hard. It takes about 30 seconds and cost $3 for the battery
@@McMedics Thanks so much for your valuable insight. I'll go ahead and do it. I will use German-made ATF "Meyle" brand. All the best!
Hello great video is the process the same for 2015 S65 AMG ? It has a 7 speed transmission traditional torque converter
2015 should have the same as this video, which isn't a traditional converter. The only difference if it did is having to drain it as well.
@@McMedics in this video your car has multi clutch in S65 AMG it says there is no multi clutch. Do you think I can follow same procedure to change transmission fluid? Thank you for the reply
No, it's single clutch. All 722.9's are the same for their given years with the changeover being torque converter or not. Dual clutch is a 9 speed and completely different.
Doing my car tomorrow, thank you for the informative vid, great job!
Very good
I thought you check level with engine on ?
I thought the same and I think it should be on.. There is another video from mercedes for the same transmission and they let the engine running while checking the level..
@@LateGuitarJourney it is. That’s how I do mine too.
I see your vehicle is sitting on the lift. I have read on some forums that you need the vehicle itself sitting level before adjusting the fluid level. Some others say you need to have the transmission pan itself level. What are your thoughts on that? Nice video, by the way! Tom
Both should be reasonably level, you don't have to put a level on the car and it be perfectly in tune with the earth. A few degrees off won't effect anything. The point of stating level is not on jack stands on just the front or back or sideways.
Why is it that sometimes 7G 722.9 transmission seems to have a Torque Converter (TC) and sometimes it is pure dual-clutch without TC?
None are dual clutch, but they stopped with torque converters mid run of the transmission
can i get away with doing this on 4 jack stands and have the pump to the side of the car?
or does this fill it improperly
Also I have noticed that you have tightened the bolts not in proper order as you should be doing cross order and not side by side to ensure the pan and gasket sit properly, please correct me if I am wrong
It was across side to side and diagonal, at some point you're going to hit 2 on the same plane because it's a rectangle. Regardless, a year later it's fine.
Is it going to be the same on 2018 Gle350 4matic? Thank you.
Hello EMF Autos,
Loved the video and just performed front/rear diff, x-fer case, and transmission fluid on my 2012 GL350.
Q: Why did you add fluid after getting trans temp to 113 deg F?
Please advise as I lost my filter while waiting to perform this job, but will do again to replace filter and add new fluid mix to what could not be drained from the torque converter and cooling system.
NOTE: Found front trans bolts to be a pain in the you know what. Replaced with new, but cross-threaded right front and sheared it. Will fix when filter arrives with new set of bolts....again.
Grrr.
Thanks again for the video.
P
Adding fluid after hot to top off, hot so as not to overfill. 2012 shouldn't have a torque converter.
@@McMedics
Although it is a BlueTEC Diesel, it still has the 722.9, 7spd auto, and I can assure you it has a torque converter. Do not know of any Mercedes autos without a torque converter unless SMG or Dual-clutch (DCT).
Thanks for the reply.
The ML63 in this video has a 722.9 without a torque converter. The 722.9 has with and without depending on age.
@@McMedics
Very interesting. Looked it up and sure enough, Mercedes did it. A non torque converter automatic. Found this clip on 722.9 "wiki" page.
7-speed MCT "Multi Clutch Technology"
Thanks for the info!
Q: Have you had any x-fer case issues....aka stretched chain? After fluid change was hoping my one issue would go away based on the 722.9 being very sensitive to fluid level and condition. From slow speed if I throttle hard, the car jumps forward, then falls on its face! Like it had no fluid through the system. I do not get any jumping chain sounds from the x-fer case....it just cuts power!
Chasing this issue and comment would be appreciated.
Should I change the transmission fluid on my S63 2015 I bought it new mileage right now 23k hwy miles? With filter or without? Is it past due?
I noticed that you did not push in the other side of the filter as it has tiny plastic grip for proper fitting and went ahead putting on the cover. I wonder if that is fine or may cause any issues?-
It's fine.
What kind of torque wrench did you use. It' hard to find a 1/4" drive torque wrench with low range
It is hard to find! I found one on Amazon, I don't remember the make.
Hello, I have a cls 63amg of 2012 with clearly the same gearbox. I wanted to know how much oil did you needed to full it to max?
Thank you for your video.
5 quarts
Hey man I have a 2013 cls550 does mine have the torque converter drain plug? If so what other steps is there to drain it. Thanks. I cant seem to find a video showing how to do this with the torque converter
IIRC 2012 and earlier have a torque converter.
ruclips.net/video/sP0FfkfQCLg/видео.html
I own a 2007 Mercedes E320 V6 diesel, with the 722.9 trans. Does this video apply to my model as well?
Yes but you'll also have a torque converter to drain and refill.
@@McMedics now I’m getting scared😄
How would you drain and refill the torque converter?
There is a drain for it, you'll see it between the transmission and engine.
How’s the transmission doing?
My 2014 C250 downshifts a bit rough at times, I’d say 3 times in the past 200 miles so it’s time for a fluid change.
Shifts got a little smoother. I did find what helps the transmission when you have rough shifts sometimes, doing an Italian tune up on it really does the trick.
@@McMedics what exactly is the Italian tune up
@@4-matic212 Drive it hard for a while, lots of high RPM shifting, making RPM's go up and down, acceleration and deceleration.
@@4-matic212 also, you could disconnect the battry, and wait couple hours to reset the computers.
that could help, sometimes.
so how bad is that old oil mixed with new oil as this change was done without drain the torque converter ?
There isn't much fluid left in the torque converter and I didn't want to do a 100% flush as I believe it was overdue for service before I bought it. The next time I do it I'll probably drain the torque converter as well.
EMF Autos I have a e320 TCdi 224 bhp sport 7-g tronic 2008 .never change atf in it before. after Your video its going to be much easier task.
@@McMedics There is no torque converter in your ML since you have the 63 model. It's the "speedshift" version of the "7G tronic that uses multiple clutches instead of the tc. Also, you car must run if you want to set the fluid level right. I would strongly suggest to get the factory manual for the whole procedure. It's super easy to destroy your transmission if you don't know exactly what you doing.
@@olgagilyazetdinova4477 I followed the factory manual. I forgot to look about the torque converter because I didn't plan on draining it. I know some have it and some don't and the factory manual shows the convertor only.
Are you sure its an E10 socket for the oil pan. Another video says it an E11 and thats what I bought.
I dont want to end up getting it all jacked up etc to find out!
E10 is what I used, which is why I mentioned it. If it was an E11, my E10 wouldn't have fit at all.
@@McMedics Thanks for clarifying that.
@@McMedics My E11 arrived and it fits the replacement bolts in the service kit part number 100250 so something is up.
If you goggle "merc/722.9%20Tranmission%20Service.pdf"
you will find the service manual and that indeed does call for e10.
My luck when I start the bolts on car are e10 and the bolts in the kit are e11! I should have bought the socket kit!
Just so people know.....or if someone can chime in and confirm! I have 2011 mark 2 CLS with 2.1 diesel 7 speed start stop. The is different oils used if you have start stop.
E10 or E11 will do.
just in case anyone is looking. I bought the E10 and E11 tried them on the new bolts in the filter kit and I found both fitted even under mag light. '
I wonder how much would dealer charge for this job?
Take what you think it is, triple it.
Where did you get all the parts?
FCP Euro
GREAT JOB!!!!!!
I need help, my S63 2015 have23k miles bought new, should I change the fluid only without the filter? Is the fluid age over due to change?
I don’t have a scan tool how long to runs the car for the right temp. I have e220 se 65 reg TIA
How long will depend on a lot of things, like ambient air temperature and how warm it was to start with. You could check oil temperature in the instrument cluster and run it for maybe 10 minutes after it's up to operating temperature to ensure its high enough.
@@McMedicso9
Oo9
Use a hand-held infrared laser thermometer (~$25-40, which is hundreds less than a scan tool) and train it on the sump. Should read about 40 C when the internal temp is 45 C. The plastic lower sump shell insulates the fluid temp and so the laser thermometer will underestimate the temp by about 5-7 degs.
@@McMedics Remember that operating temp will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 80-90 C, NOT 45 C, which is the temp at which the ATF final top off is to be done. Don't confuse the two.
hot car
"Do not re-use the old bolts, I will explain later when replacing bolts." Replaces bolts, doesn't explain why old bolts cannot be re-used. 🤨
I got busy, ended up shooting the rest a week later.
@@McMedics No worries, and thanks for making this. So does anyone know why the old bolts shouldn't be re-used?
@@boerboel7777 They're stretch bolts, one time use.
Mercedes USA is a hell of an awesome car to rid of, unless you have Jeff Bezos' income, then have at it. .
People are definitely angry about the TQ converter bs in these comments...
ANYWHO, my ass is in the process of getting everything ready to do my trans fluid on my '14 CLS550 (great car btw, highly recommend), my ONLY question... how in the hell do you get those little clips off their mounting spots for the wiring harness? I had attempted to take them off before with a flathead and could not for the LIFE of me take them out.. idk if I just wasn't putting enough ass into the tugging, or was prying on the wrong spot.. any advice would be appreciated
The torque converter the car doesn't have