How to Replace Sway Bar Link 11-17 Ram 1500 Truck
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
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In this video, 1A Auto shows you how to remove, replace, and install a sway bar end link. This video is applicable to 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, Ram, 1500
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2011 Ram 1500
2012 Ram 1500
2013 Ram 1500
2014 Ram 1500
2015 Ram 1500
2016 Ram 1500
2017 Ram 1500
2018 Ram 1500
🔧 List of tools used:
• 15mm Wrench 1aau.to/ocR/1AX...
• 18mm Wrench
• 16mm Socket 1aau.to/okq/1AX...
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/oeF/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/omk/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/okq/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/ogD/1AX...
• Rust Penetrant
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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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This video is great and the job is easy if you have a 4x4 model. If your like me and have 4x2 its a pain in the ass. The lower control arm is different on the 4x2 models. You have to get creative to get the link off. On the 4x2 lower conteol arm the 18mm nut is "encased", if thats the correct word, inside the control arm so there is no way you can get a Cresent wrench in there to hold the 18mm nut while you turn the 8mm stabilizer link. I happened to have a very small vise grip plier and I used that to hold the 18mm nut in place, inside where the nut is encased, while I turned the 8mm stabilizer link nut and got it off. I'm sure there is a tool for this type of application but I didn't have the time to try and find one. I hope this helps the next guy that sees this video and has a 4x2 truck.
yeah i seen this after i cursed the creators of such a dumb setup the entire time already... 🤬
that was fun.
Super easy job! No need to take the wheels off, jack the truck enough to take the weight off the wheels. The top part of the link is easy, use a socket wrench, use an open wrench on the middle of the link and it comes off quickly. In the bottom part, use vice grips above the control arm, and use a torque gun to blast the bottom nut off. Make sure you remove both at the same time so you can easily flip the sway bar up allowing the entire link to be removed on both sides. Install both links, but do not tighten the top nut yet, just make sure the top threaded bolt is fitted through the sway bar hole. Use Loctite on the bottom nut, and use an open-end wrench above the control arm. You will see the fitting under the rubber boot. Now you can use a torque gun to blast the nut back on. Once you do both sides, it's now safe to tighten the top nut. Literally just installed these 20 minutes ago.
For anyone doing this on a 4x2, what I did was take a 8mm on a ratchet with an extension and stuck a pry bar on the 18mm and wedged it so it wouldn’t spin, then I tightened down the 8mm as much as I could. This made it so nothing was free spinning anymore and I was able to torque it to spec
Is it necessary to have ther vehicle lifted or can this be done laying on the ground?
Lying on your back was pretty easy. Did both sides in about 30 mins.
Do you need an alignment afterwards?
I put a level spacer in my front end do I need a longer sway bar link or is the oem length ok the spacer gave me a 2 inch height increase
just wondering , if these are bad would it cause popping while turning ? I have a popping when I turn left in my 15 ram .
I took my 2013 1500 to a garage recently for diagnostics. It's was making a loud popping sound when makeing slow speed sharp turns. They said it was the links and the shocks bushings. Since the links are so cheap and easy to install I'd replace them and see if that fixes it.
I just ordered ! Wish me luck
It's easy!
Does the truck need to be off the ground to replace the link?
no
Do you have to take off the sway bar bushings for this?
Should the sway have play? I was able to move by hand.
I recommend taking the wheel off. Easier to get the torque wrench on the top bolt.
I'm having a hard time doing mine on a 2015 dodged 4x2,is not as easy as this 1,is there a special tool for it?
Did you Find something that helps? I’m currently in the same situation
Curious, do the 09 and 10 Rams have a different setup? The rears seem to be the same from 09 through 18 - just thought the fronts would be too. Thanks!
+Stephen Bell It appears the 2009 and the 2010 have the same sway bar links for the front and the install will be very similar.
@@1AAuto That's super. Thank you so much for the clarification and for all the amazing how-to videos!!
16lbs on top and 75lbs on bottom?
Why is the new one not greasable?
Some manfacturers grease them at the factory that's why they sell them sealed...I personally prefer to be able to grease parts myself from time to time, so you can either buy a different brand that has the grease fitting or you can drill and tap a grease fitting in a part that doesn't have one yourself....probably wouldn't work too well to put one in yourself with this part though as the metal shavings would just make a mess of the grease that already in this part.
Could busted sway bar link be the cause of a slight sway or vibration when launching in 4x4 ? I do have a small vibration/ sway only when launching in 4x4 till i reach about 30-40km/hr...and being leveled from a bit i do know my sway bar link and upper arm are screwed... didn't get around to do them yet !
Is it necessary to replace both if only one is bad?
+amonkey withagun Thanks for watching! While it is not necessary to do both, it is usually a good idea to do so.
+amonkey withagun Thanks for watching! While it is not necessary to do both, it is usually a good idea to do so.
unless you're truly sure it's only one that's bad, I'd say.
and you'll eventually have to loosen them both anyways, might as well... unless funds aren't permitting
Where did you get the torque specs from?
Thanks for checking us out! The Torque Specifications can be located in a Haynes repair manual or often there are downloaded repair manuals that you can locate online. There also may be some part stores locally that would have this information for you. Hope this helps you out! +D Arthur
Just had mine replaced now the bushing on top is pretty much gone what could be the cause of that and how to fix it
i did the same... over tightening probably.. did you torque it down to the specs he mentioned here in the video? cause i didnt... but... 🤷♂️🤦🏻♂️
So in order to remove the old one both have to come out to move the sway bar???
Yes, because you wont be able to move the sway bar if the other link is still on tight
Hey Blaine, same question here. Any sway bars I've worked on (cars) do not pivot up, unless its free on both sides. I'll wait for the reply but given its been 2 years, I'm going to assume you are right and you need to do both at the same time. Lots of replies above and more recently. I guess they didn't like the question :-)
What was wrong with the old one ?
Some of the common symptoms of a bad sway bar bushing or sway bar links going bad are:
clunking noise,
rattling noise,
knocking uneven noise road,
lack of stability when driving and noise going over speed bumps.
poor handling during turns. +Lou Indorato
@@1AAuto thank you for your expertise
Thanks for not being a chatty Cathy and getting to the point