Airfix Mitusbishi Zero - Beginner's Guide - 1/72 Scale Model Kit Build & Review
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2018
- A beginner's guide, build and review of the Airfix 1/72 scale Mitsubishi A6M2b Zero plastic model kit, which is included as part of the Pearl Harbor Dogfight Doubles Gift Set, also featuring a P40B Warhawk.
In this video I break things down a bit more for those of you who are just starting out in the hobby , or have had a break. This gift set would be suitable as a starter set due to the number of included paints, brushes and the tube of poly cement.
Additional paints used (not included in set):
Humbrol 135 & 53, Decalfix
Find the kit here:
www.airfix.com/uk-en/mitsubis...
www.airfix.com/us-en/curtiss-...
A guide to applying decals:
• How To Apply Decals to...
A guide to stretching sprue:
• How to Stretch Sprue f...
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Tora! Tora! Tora! is both an excellent film and a great source of eye candy for fans of the white Mitsubishi Zero.
good suggestion!
Great videos for beginners! You did a fine job explaining the steps, so that a beginner should feel comfortable tackling this kit.
Thanks for watching :)
Love those Airfix kits. Thanks for all the great reviews!
Thanks for watching!
Bought this kit about 60 years ago, one of my all time favourite's !
I imagine that if you bought it 60 years ago it would have been a different version, the tooling for this one is much newer so hpefully a bit more detailed too :)
@@ModelMinutes Yes it was quite basic, but as a youngster, it was amazing !
@@johnfellows2867 I find that imaginiation usually fills in the gaps :)
I just purchased this as a single kit and will plan to donate it to the local war museum , as I am in Australia and this version is close to the 188 zeros which attacked Darwin in Australia on February 19, 1942. This review will assist me greatly in making a top model. I have recently returned to model making ( a covid activity?) since 1990.
sounds really cool!
Great beginners guide. This was actually my first airfix kit.
Awesome! :)
Can't wait for the P-40!
Me too! - it'll actually be the third one i'll have built - having done the Desert and Battle of Britain (Tomahawk IIb) scheme ones previously, but i'm looking forward to doing a different version
Brilliant, very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
I really enjoy your quick builds, may I suggest painting the canopy framing first with the interior colour of the cockpit? It'll avoid the seethrough effect on the canopy.
That's a great idea! I'd never thought to do that before - a top tip! Thanks :)
Good job dude!!✌👍👏😎
Thanks :D
Nice work going over the fundamentals of model building and painting. Glad you included the pilot figure....planes look better populate. Hahahahaha. Keep up the good work.
Bill
Thanks! I'm using the included stand for these kits, so it would look weird if they were flying without pilots :P
Nice job going over beginning techniques. I would recommend teaching aircraft modelers the art of removing the seams that shouldn't be there. On the Zero there was not a seam on the top or the bottom where the fuselage halves join together so it should be made to look like it's joined together as one. Putty, super glue or Mr Surfacer type products can be applied to the seam and sanded to make it look like there is no seam. My technique with this model was to mix ak gunmetal pigment with superglue and apply it to the seam. Let it dry or use a super glue accelerator and then sand away at the glue and seam with coarse then finer sanding grades. Superglue with AK gunmetal pigment works great in hiding seams and doesn't shrink like putty.
Thanks for the suggestion! I do feature some seam cleanup and removal in some of my other (more recent) videos, this one is quite old now so i've learnt a lot since then
Very nice build. You are right about the color, it just doesn't look quite right. I have the Zero kit, but have not built it yet because of the color problem. I think a white color with a dark wash, may be the answer.
I think the version that comes on its own from airfix, suggests a mix of different white paints - and the nose cowling has a blue tint to it, rather than being just black!
Awesome video!! I’ve just bought this kit and on monday will arrive😱 Thanks for upload this video I’m going to wait for the P40 because THIS IS MY FIRST MODEL KIT! (Do you recommend to highlight the details of the plane?)
Awesome! Welcome to the hobby :). If You feel the extra details need highlighting, then yes, it's definitely worth doing. But if you're happy (like i was in this video) then don't feel it's necessary
Model Minutes thank you
Great little video! Maby next time you should say that small sticks like a cocktail stick or sharpened sprue pieces helps to scrape away mess from canopys
Yes, that's a good idea! I always use the blunt end of my scalpel :P
Model Minutes that can result in an accidental scrape that will leave marks or make it look like shattrered glass
Yes, you're right - so far i've been super careful and avoided doing that - but maybe it would be a good idea to suggest a safer way in my next video :)
Model Minutes yeah, it would be the best
For acrilic colours you can try Vallejo's ranges, there are really a lot of colours and washes forma every kind of model and figures. Eccellente model, if I remember some Japanese producers (hasegawa or fujimi?) made some figures for dioramas as pilots & mechanics
Thanks for the info!
I also was wondering why it was somewhat green when all mainstream photos I see are of white planes. Though even Tamiya recommends their own IJN Grey Green paint for their Zero lines. It is similar to Humbrol Beige Green, but appears greener in the final finish. And Tamiya makes the best Zeros out there.
Yeah, it doesn't seem right to me - I'm pretty sure that the other kits Airfix make, in the instructions they recommend mixing paints up to make them more white. Also, the black nose should have a blue tint to it . . .
I believe it is more a white that blends into a light grey, as it moves down the fuselage towards the tail.
In the museum at Pearl Harbor, there is a Mitsubishi Zero restored to look like one that attacked Pearl Harbor. It looks like a gloss pistachio green, and written witness accounts concur using words like light pea green. I seem to recall it actually did a forced landing somewhere in or near Hawaii minutes after the attack.
The main stream photos of the Mitsubishi Zeros that attacked Pearl Harbor appear to be white or light gray (with a black cowling, and so forth) because they are black and white photos.
What I will say next will send your head spinning.
Airfix beige green is as accurate as you can buy without using a special formula recommended by one of two investigators analyzing old wreckage. You would have to mix it yourself with a handful of other Hornby Humbrol acrylic colors. The recommendation to use Humbrol beige green was a thoughtful, and knowledgeable one.
Even though it might be a slightly different shade, the gray green recommended by Tamiya is also as accurate
as you can buy without using a special formula to mix it yourself. The recommendation to use Tamiya gray green (also spelled grey green) was also thoughtful, and knowledgeable one.
The same could be said about gray green made by other manufacturers.
At some point, the decision becomes a matter of interpretation. Most people have no idea how the oxidation from a few days (let alone years) of exposure to the Pacific Ocean can impact the interpretation or analysis of a color.
There is actually an anniversary set that includes the A6M2b zero, B5N1 kate and the Curtiss p40b.
haven't bought it yet though.
Yeah, i've seen that! It's the same kits and paint schemes but also the Bomber too! It's a bit more expensive (nearly twice the price) but it doesn't seem to be in stock any more on the Airfix Website
Model Minutes was the 75th anniversary of Pearl Harbor set, came out 2016. Don't keep them in production long, especially anniversary sets. Like the Falklands 30th anniversary set in 2012. Imagine acrylic paints may tend to dry out so they don't want them on the shelves too long so limit production somewhat.
Personally, would buy the sets even if paints weren't included. Personally don't use them, just like the idea of adversary kits together.
You also mentioned in one video brushing alternate layers in different directions, again to avoid brush strokes.
yeah, sometimes i do this
Another great job, have you done an English Electric Lightning ⚡? My first Airfix kit ever. Cheers 🍻
Thanks! Sadly not, but I would like to in the future - when I have cleared some of my stash
Nice
thanks!
you make a.....good plane~~~~
thanks :D
You are using decalfix wrong: there is no need to dip the decal in water.You dip it in the decalfix for 10 seconds and skip the water completely! I hope this helps!
Konstantinos V. How to use decalfix correctly: Throw it in the bin, get microset and microsol.
that is true. LOL
Yeah, i used to use decalfix without water - but found I went through a bottle incredibly quickly as it gets soaked up by the backing paper. The way I did it in the video just helps me conserve my supplies longer, and still gets the decalfix to act properly on the decal. I do have microsol/set solution too, but again using up my decalfix on easier kits - i'll crack open the other stuff on more difficult/intricate kits :)
I use decalfix for a weathering effect by making a undercoat of the colour I want the chips to be then paint over that afterwards I use the decal fix to strip of the top layer of paint creating a worn/chipped effect
I just thought re glue fogging canopies.. would an internal thin layer of varnish protect the canopy? It may be a reaction to fumes of the glue so a varnish layer would stop them contacting each other.
that is a possibility, but perhaps the glue won't bond so well
Hi Matt, recently got this kit so enjoyed your build before I do my own. Quick question on one of the comments below from Argentinian Spotter. What does he mean paint the canopy frame with the cockpit colour? If your colour inside is Green then how does this work? I'm missing the point, understand the transparency of the plastic showing through but don't get it?! Thanks
Base layer of cockpit colour then top layer of camouflage colour. The aim is to make the inside of the frames look like they were painted on the inside like in real life. Personally I don’t really care as I’m probably never going to see the inside of the canopy after it’s built
@@ModelMinutes Ah ok. That makes sense. I agree I’ll probably save that technique for any big builds or something I do in great detail as most of my 1:72s you don’t see inside very much. Thanks
I too have made this kit I the zero especially was not the best.... The right side of the fuselage had very shallow panel lines. The cockpit colour recommended by airfix is wrong ❌ they say it's humbrol 64 a grey sort of a colour but IRL it's green.... Also the propeller assembly even if performed properly will leave the propeller loose, it'll fall down if spun so I too had to glue it in place... Overall though this kit is a very nicely tooled kit many options for customisation and has incredible detail crisp deep panel lines (except the right fuselage, at least this happened with my sprue) the stand included is also a nice touch but the canopy cannot be setting the open position even though the kit has option of open landing gear and folded up wing tips.
Yeah, I agree. Sounds like you had a bad fuselage part there, maybe they'd have some in the spares department . . . I wasn't too sure about the prop, i'm glad it's not just me who had issues with it! Small issues though, and you still end up with a great looking kit :)
Ordeered this and a spitfire and they’re coming in about a week! Any tips for the bottom of the spit because it’s the half black/ half white?
I'd use some masking tape to get that really nice straight line, and start by painting the white first, then black second
Thanks!⚫️⚪️
FlexedHickory35, After setting the Way-Back time machine to 27 May 1940, Engage the Luftwaffe squadrons before they reach Dunkerque. The black and white bottom-side of your Vickers Supermarine Spitfire Mk. 1a will have the perfect camouflage for the battle.
Do you think it’d be fine to use the same color on the bottom of the spit fire on the bottom of this
Airfix recommends humbrol 90 for the entire aircraft as they don't make a more suitable colour
hi, will you star using airbrush? and what about kits made by czech company eduard? they are realy cool
I'd love to get both an airbrush and kits from eduard, unfortunately i've not been able to do so yet
Is the Matt coat and satin coat acrylic or enamel
I tend to use both acrylic and enamel versions. Satin acrylic before the application of decals, then enamel matt/satin (depending on the desired finish) afterwards to help protect them before applying an acrylic wash
excelente;
Thanks!
Can you build a Lancaster
I've got one in my stash - hopefully I'll be able to start it soon! :)
I don’t either
to get the airfix zero or revell focke wulf 190
Zero has an easier paint scheme
It looks like there’s too much paint or you didn’t make the panel lines clear enough but except for that good model
Thanks for watching! The panel lines aren't particularly deep on this model, but a thinner layer of paint would have helped with that problem
Do you think tamiya is better than Airfix because I prefer Airfix
I think that both companies have their strengths
My son wants plane models for his 9th birthday, I don't have much experience with models. Would you recommend airfix as a good start point? Also what are some must have tools for beginners? Thanks for any response!
Firstly, welcome to the hobby! I'm sure that you'll get involved when your son does! Airfix can be a good starting point as many of their Starter Set kits have fewer parts and fit together well. Not only that, but they come with cement, paint brush and enough acrylic paints to get a good finish. Revell also do starter sets with cement and paints etc, but sometimes they have some older models in the kit, which are more difficult to assemble. A couple of Airfix starter sets would be a good point to begin. In my videos you'll see that you may also need a sharp hobby knife/scalpel to remove parts from the sprues, a nail file to smooth any rough parts, something to protect the surface you're working on (newspaper will do) and a pot to put some water in for cleaning brushes (i tend to use a yoghurt pot). Have a look on my channel for more beginner guides - they might help give you more information, but the things i've listed are the bare basics. I hope this helps :)
@@ModelMinutes Thank you very much, using a file to deburr rough edges never crossed my mind until you mentioned it in the video. I'm definitely going through your uploads with him to get some ideas! Thanks again for the response!
Glad I could be some help! :) I'd be interested to know how you get on :)
@@ModelMinutes please get a high quality sprue cutter - much better than a knife
@@rosskarp8100 you should look at my more recent videos for a better look at the current tools I use. This video is 3 years old so I think I might have added a few tools since then
I have one of these but it’s not the dogfight doubles one
Yeah, it's been released on its own
One of the engine parts made me cut myself wile trying to cut it out
I hope more people will use scissor-like sprue cutters or scissor-like side cutters in beginner videos because using a scissor-like hand tool is a much safer way to cut parts from a sprue than a hobby knife. Ironically, sprue cutters and side cutters are often used in videos that are not oriented toward beginners.
An old saying is "Pain is a, good teacher." I want to hit the people who say it, so I will punch myself in the face one time for all concerned. "Lo siento" literally translates from Spanish to English as "it I feel"; however, a proper translation is "I am sorry".
While I am on a rant, please use a protective mask / respirator when you use solvent based paint thinners or lacquer paints. Your comment was helpful to beginners, and serves as a wise reminder to the advanced "glue trooper". Thank you.
@@ieatoutoften872 I was using a scalpel it was very hard plastic to cut so that’s why I accidentally cut my self
@@ieatoutoften872 also I don’t use sprue cutters and I don’t use those paints and don’t bother with a mask when using thinner 😂
sad times
That canopy coloring is really messy.
yup, early build. Check out some more recent videos and I hope you would notice an improvement
@@ModelMinutes Indeed! But hey, at least this shows what a beginner can expect to achieve. Thank you for your videos!
@@bobonajbolji Thanks for watching them :)
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thanks for the info!
hmm......
:)