*Attention all new buyers!* You won't get full bearings anymore. Now you'll get a car with brass bushings. - 8 of 3x7x2mm for the wheel hubs. - 4 of 6x10x3mm for the differentials. - 2 of 2x5x2.5mm for the prop shaft. There are other changes as well such as rear body mount is now poles and rubber pad instead of magnet, wheels are now held with screw to the swing arm. The only good change I can see is the new board which, presumably, won't fry when you hold the throttle for too long. *Time stamps* Package Content: 0:25 Chassis: 1:06 Body: 3:19 Electronics: 4:30 Test Drift: 5:36 Test Drift Verdict: 6:33 Upgrade Guide: 7:51 Price & Final verdict: 9:01 What upgrades you should get with the car: 9:17
Seems strange that it fried free wheeling the motor without any load, must have been a bad soldering job or fried because of the lack of capacitor back feeding into the esc. Suppose this is worth fixing at least as it has a built in gyro & probably uses s08 package, give it a try replacing the fet that ended up frying for a more powerful one and see if that helps or if it just fries that one too, a s08 mosfet doesn't cost much compared too replacing the electronics anywhy & you might have some old rc board with one you can grab as well thats perhaps from a scrapped project or similar. Regardless though i might actually buy this chassis just too grab the board for my mini-z mr01 thats been on the shelf for a while. Also have you tried setting up the mini-q q2 for 90mm wheelbase yet and tried any motors in that ?
@@Mini-z1994 It's strange indeed. I ended up replacing the whole board with ESC + receiver because the servo is not precise and worse still, it's jerky with this board so I think replacing FET is not worth it. You might get better result when the servo is controlled by Mini-Z board. Gyro means so little to me because I also have on-board gyro on my Radiolink and even that I rarely use it. Anyway, I might salvage a FET from my QQ board if I have time. I'm keeping my Q2 94mm at the moment (MM2 motor mount can't do 90mm). It's agile enough for me to drive around my room. The motors haven't arrive yet. Well, the post here takes very, very long time to anyway so I'm not surprise. The onlt thing I've done is replacing the tyres for original Kyosho tyres 30 degrees and it's much better to drive. Even better than my MR03 with RM motor mount.
I been waiting for this review and I can’t wait for mine to come in the mail.I am glad the parts are compatible with mini awd.I am looking forward to the upgrade videos and I plan on upgrading mine just like yours.Thx for making these videos they are very detailed and give us a lot of info.thx again and keep up the awesome work.
If you recently bought this kit and got one of the the non ball bearing batch, lubricate ALL the bronze/brass bushings before running the car, because yes they are dried out, and the motor will just scream out and move very very very slow. Pad/Cushion the servo, as well as the 130 motor underneath with a thin 1mm/2mm EVA craft foam cut according to size of area. Make sure no padding interferes with other parts. Why? Raises the servo (little bit more steering), Raises the motor as The spur gear tends to pop out in which you may experience having difficulty of no reverse or no forward after doing reverse. It "MAY NOT RUN" with 4x 1.5v AAA alkaline/non rechargeable (weird experience, luckily the board didnt fry if its because of the voltage), recommend 4x 1.2v AAA (which is common). Board has light indicator, blinks if battery is running low/not enough power to drift. Lubricate moving parts with machine oil every before use. Clear drive shafts of hair and dust after playing. Now, Run Stock until you upgrade according to beaver's suggestion. Enjoy.
You included a lot of valuable information. Thanks so much. I was originally going to get a WLTOYS A202, but after seeing your video, I'm definitely reconsidering. I appreciate you listing out all your components. Awesome channel. Glad to be a subscriber.
Just thought I’d drop in here and let everyone know that the 2020 update body mounting uses a piece of foam screwed onto the body with 2 holes for 2 ball hitch style pegs to slide into.
Right to put the message at the top for 8:13, as the Tamiya (Mabuchi/SMC) motors are supposed to be used with 3V. Overvolting they will not last as long especially not with the brushes in most of them.
@@BeaversHobbyneh, the statement is there... But you could add a note to the description and point to this. I believe you also had a video about this, but those where on regular miniz (and believe you mentioned this for WLToys not working due to the 2S setup)
New board for this car is much more reliable, but steering angle became relatively small too. I've fixed this problem with adding two 3kOhms resistors to its 5-wire servo(brown and white wire). Now my TRQ1 got full range steering. lol
Nice videos man! Really appreciate the effort and you can see you are passionate about it. Now you gave me the RC drifting virus! the good side is that it is cheaper than my other hobbies.
just bought a trq1 from banggood. fyi the chassis is now black plastic instead of the transparent blue. everything works except for the servo which has too little travel. at max steering dual rate i’m only managing ~1.2m diameter turn circles which is huge and have trouble initiating drifts. may i ask what kinda turning circle diameters are your cars doing? i hope there’s a mod i can do cos i don’t wanna switch out all the electronics and thanks beaver for the informative video!
Before the mod I got about 65cm turning circle. If the servo movement is small, try adjusting the knob on the radio, there's ST/DR knob that limit the steering.
don’t think a longer horn would fit. took the servo out to inspect and there was nothing in the steering linkage that was binding. the servo just wasn’t moving enough even though st/dr was maximum. will contact banggood to see what they can do.
Mine is from gaming mouse. You can use coins too. Here're some weight strips for RC. hobbyking.com/en_us/fe-balance-weight-60g-x-2-bag.html Not that it will make any difference than using something you can find around your house though.
ATTENTION, Banggood delivered me a much worse quality product them that in the video! The achassis on mine came very brittle, including many cracks around the screws. The ball bearings have beam replaced by cheaper, less efficient "bearrings". Just to add to the horror history, the electronics fried right away, similar to what happened in the video, but much quicker.
Unfortunately the 1st Mini-Z is not really upgradeable. You'll stuck with the basic electronics unless you mod the whole thing and by that point buying a standard Mini-Z is cheaper.
✌🏻😎🏴I ordered 3 of these. What went wrong with the electrics? Why did it happen? & will it happen to mine? What can I do to prevent this from happening to mine. I ordered the white, the red, and the black&green one. Or should I cancel the order? I listened to your advice and I also have a k989 & k969 now. I just realised they are both the same chassis 😂 They arrived this week. I haven’t followed along with your videos yet or modified them in any way. But I will. & if I ever teach the stuff I learn from you to anyone else. You can guarantee I’m pointing them towards my source. Keep up the good work.
The problem with this one was either the FET seems to can't handle long opening of throttle or backfire/interference from the motor without capacitor. Mini-Q told me they fixed this problem in the new board but who knows which batch will come with those. So to be on the safe side, solder non-polar capacitor no.104 to the motor (I did it in the upgrade video of this car) and don't hold the throttle too long. That should help with board lifespan. Also thanks for watching and hope you get something useful out of my videos. :D
Thank you for the awesome review! It seems that the manufacturer has changed from lug nuts to screws for the wheels. Do you know if the new ones could be changed to lug nut type?
@@BeaversHobby mystery solved. I've been looking everywhere to try to figure it out. Thank you so much! I love your channel since you do reviews on vehicles that are hobby grade with toy price.
www.banggood.com/TRQ1-2-4G-Mini-Drift-RC-Car-p-1390549.html?p=PF13121622362201505M&ID=228&cur_warehouse=CN . Upon closer inspection, yours came with lug nuts. It seems that banggood only sells one with screws now. I wonder what happens to the compatibility now
K969 has more headroom to upgrade and a better car overall. The only problem it got is the brittle gears that wear out very quickly. This on the other hand is easier to drive (because of gyro), directly compatible with Kyosho differential so it's easy to install front one way but in the end it's not as precise as K969.
Beaver's Hobby The transmitter tends to make the car go backward when you have Duracell batteries in it so for kyosho mini z just stay away from duracell batteries.
Beaver's Hobby I fix it by resetting the transmitter. Also which car do you refer to when you say the antenna is about to break and it refuses to bind?
@@narrowempress1625 My old MR-03 Sports needs a bit of turning on and off to make it receive the signal which is a bit annoying. My MA-030 has a loose antenna but I can fix it easily with just a simple soldering job. Not really what I expect from a 250 Euros car.
I bought one of these and right out of the box it isn't working properly. After just a second or two of throttle, it will stop. I can get it to go again, but it will stop again in just a few seconds? Not sure if it's the transmitter or maybe a gyro setting, but right now it looks like I wasted 40 bucks. Any suggestions?
It sounds like either transmitter stopped transmitting or the car doesn't receive any power. How far were you from the car? Also what's the battery you are using? While it stops, does the steering work? Try changing the battery in both transmitter and car. Also try to re-bind the car with the transmitter (if I remember correctly) turn both on, press button on the car then press the bind button on the transmitter. If it's still working intermittently then you should contact the shop you bought it from.
@@BeaversHobby even with the car right next to me, it's still stopping. Batteries in car and transmitter are brand new. I think it may be related to the power switch, which doesn't click firmly into place when you turn the car on (steering doesn't work when it stops). I've contacted banggood to see what they can do. Right now it's a huge disappointment.
@@escapewheel821 If even the steering doesn't work and LED shut off then it's power related. You can try to bridge the power switch so it's always on. But if the LED still there when it stops then it's transmitter related.
I have just received my car and it has the same problem as yours. After a few seconds the red LED starts blinking and the steering doesn't work during the period. I hope there is a solution for it. Btw I bought mine from AliExpress.
So you got the defective one. Don't worry. This is fixable. Take a look at the servo plug. There will be 5 wires: red, black for power and the other 3 for potentiometer. You can take the wire out by using a tweezer to lift a tab on the plug and pull the wire out. Swap the red and black first. Then try to swap 2 of the other 3 until you get it working in the opposite direction.
Hi Beaver, how easy would you rate this car for drifting on a scale of 1-10 where 10 is the easiest? I've put on drift tires on my 4wd cars and can't drift for my life. Hoping this car can train me. Thx
For an AWD car give it 7 because of the limited steering can make it a bit hard to initiate a drift but after that control is good. However beware that the current batch has a problem with the board so the steering is not enough even to drive it as a grip car. I suggest the WLtoys K969 and then put a piece of plastic or rubber behind the radio trigger to limit the speed. That one is a solid 8/10 after fixing, don't have to mod, just fix it. Q7 is 9/10 and AMZ with bell crank upgrade is 9.5/10 in case you are wondering.
@@Diamondbac It's great. Here's Q7 drift in action. ruclips.net/video/3dUMMfmmZi8/видео.html This is my setup, I recently changed it back to 50-50 and 94mm wheelbase but the alignment is the same. ruclips.net/video/kCjglUnXBQU/видео.html
@@spirosmat6838 Δεν βρήκα σετ ρουλεμάν για WLtoys K989 (είναι τα ίδια). Και τα hubs δεν είναι το ίδιο με Mini-Z AWD. Οπότε καλύτερα να το πάρεις ξεχωριστά από κάπου πχ. ebay. Θα χρειαστείς 8 τεμ. 3x7x2mm για hubs, 4 τεμ. 6x10x3mm για diffs και 2 τεμ. 2x5x2.5mm για centre shaft.
@@claytondunlop248 Depends on where you live but here's link for Ikea stuffs if you have a store near you. www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ladda-rechargeable-battery-90303880/ www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kvarts-battery-charger-00446671/
@@claytondunlop248 There's 1100 mAh from Orion. That one is good too. You can find it in Mini-Z racing shops. Higher mAh tends to have lower power punch and more weight so keep it between 750-900 to get a good acceleration.
Is anyone else having an issue with the car going from stopped to forward or reverse, or from from forward to reverse and vice-versa? The little red light inside the body blinks, and when blinking the car wont move. I have to wait a while then try again before it engages...
@@sk8klown88 Look at your battery type, if it's rechargeable NiMH, Eneloop or some powerful Alkaline like Panasonic then the problem is most likely from the board.
@@BeaversHobby ok I will look. It does seem like the problem is getting worse the more I drive jt. Could it be as the AAA batteries drain, it's causing a power cut? Maybe I can upgrade to a 1S lipo
@@sk8klown88 Yes, voltage drop can cause the problem. Still, I'd say you can keep using AAA but get some good rechargeable battery. Or if you have 1S lying around you can try that too. If the problem persists then contact the shop, I think the board is gone.
My mini q trq 1 will not move only the steering works. Sometimes it goes forward a little bit and stops. It’s like it is out of batteries. I have tried replacing the batteries in the controller and car. Do you have any idea why it does that?
@@BeaversHobby I was using rechargeable batteries for both car and transmitter and recently I put alkaline in the car and rechargeable in transmitter. I also tried 1s lipo but nothing worked. I will try to transfer the board from my broken wltoys k989 to the trq1.
It's called low voltage cut-off. This system is present in many ESCs. If you use a well-established brand like Hobbywing it will come with one already. This one is for brushed ESC but it works with 5x NiMH and above www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=359&filter_attr=5426.5599 . This one is for brushless ESC and it works with 4x NiMH toowww.hobbywingdirect.com/products/ezrun-18a-sl-esc?variant=212574911 . But normally you don't have to worry too much because if you use 4x AAA with any cheap ESC, the BEC output to receiver depends on the total input and not many receivers can work down to 3.6V (0.9V x4) so it'll be alright. The receiver will cut out once you go lower than 4.2V anyway.
Hello. It depends on the car you have but generally most of the parts are compatible with Mini-Z AWD so you can get the wheels, tyres sometimes CVD and differential from your local Kyosho Mini-Z distributor. For online sources you can get from rcmart.com and banzaihobby.com . These are my usual shops. If it's specific for Mini-Q or WLtoys then it's either AliExpress or banggood.
Do you think this is worth the money compared to the k989? because on bangood the k989 costs 20 dollers more than the mini-q you reviewed in this vid.(im not tight budget so every doller saved counts) Also is it easy and cheap to upgrade the electronics if they break?
Yes, K989 worth $20 more because it has better suspension and better electronics. And it's cheaper & easier to replace the electronics as well if anything goes wrong. Sorry for late reply.
If you want exact replacement it's going to be very hard to find because no one makes it this size with 5 wires except original Mini-Q spare. It used to be on Hobbyking but not anymore. You might want to do the whole electronics upgrade with 3 wires and metal gear. Here's Banggood . bit.ly/2PfUtWJ And here's in aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000339217298.html
@@BeaversHobby Hi, thnx. I just ordered cheaper one, with plastic from BG for 3 wires. I will try to convert it to 5 wires by my self, just throwing away a pcb from servo. :)
Hello, I have tried to find the Mini Q trq1 on banggood but they say there’s error 404 and website was not fetched. I cannot buy it. Does this happen to you? Last week I went on and it was fine and it was available for purchase. Do you have any idea about it? Anyway I bought a WLToys K989. Can you please do a review on the stock one of K989? Thanks. By the way I am a subscriber of yours and your channel is really good and I like the 1/28 and 1/27 scale content.
Banggood website is a bit slow for me in the past few days. You can try again and see if it works now www.banggood.com/custlink/mvGyY2BBrZ . I've done the K989 review already but it's bundled with the full series of fixing it into budget touring car. ruclips.net/p/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb
@@narrowempress1625 They are good in their own way. TRQ1 is easier to find Mini-Z compatible parts and gears are more durable while WLtoys has more headroom to upgrade & mod, better to drive, handles powerful motor better and has much better suspension system. Overall WLKtoys is a better car.
@@narrowempress1625 You can use red JST plug and some resistors to connect the light to the battery. Here's how to calculate and wire the light. ruclips.net/video/_g4uwUtobPk/видео.html
This is a good review! I am having problems even trying to get my AAA powered car to drift at all? What could be the problem, or is it just underpowered???
If it can spin the wheels then it got enough power. This also depends on the battery. I use Ikea 900mAh rechargeable and it's more than enough. The really big concern is the steering angle. If it's not enough it won't initiate the drift. Lately I've got some complaint that steering angle is not good. Try to see if the turning circle is less than 60cm. I got about 50 if I remember correctly and that's enough for drifting. If the turning circle is wide, it won't drift.
Take the board out and wire the 5 wires directly to the motor and potentiometer. Or upgrade the whole thing to standard 3 wire system. Like in this video. ruclips.net/video/rTveWKmr8xY/видео.html
Hi Beaver, i would like to play drift. but i had bought the wrong one, K989. what parts shall i change to make it drift? will it still harder to drift after modify K989 due no gyro? Thanks
If you already fixed the drivetrain and the suspension next step is to lock the diff and replace the tyres to Mini-Z drift tyres along with the wheels. If you get drift tyres off Banggood or Aliexpress some of them are pretty bad. Also don't forget to move the ball link on the servo horn up to the top hole, it'll increase the steering angle. Also you can try and pull the preload clips off the shock to soften the suspension. You don't really need gyro for AWD drift car so don't worry about that. If you want you can add something like this one. ruclips.net/video/fM4rk6PV0ls/видео.html The car is also too fast to control so you can do a simple mod like putting a small piece of rubber or plastic behind the trigger so you don't pull it all the way in. The other way is to do dual rate mod on the transmitter. ruclips.net/video/psmrXPsPpY8/видео.html Good luck!
This one is easier for beginner but it's slower than WLtoys. If you want a fast car for hi-speed drifting, get the WLtoys K969 it's drift car out of the box. If you want precision drifting at slow speed, get this one.
@@alie5146 There's Firelap IW04M. The original electronics are pretty bad but the chassis is good and it's a good base for modding especially to fit a Mini-Z body. Review: ruclips.net/video/odfvxe6lIHM/видео.html Mod: ruclips.net/video/qLM3Qh6kku4/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby yeah well the dash motors are meant for 3 volt max and then using them whit 6 volt they get hot very fast that is what happened whit my mini q and the aaa batteries got hot as wel and then the power was just gone so it is really just the right voltage and the right chemistry like lipo’s is better when you want them to run longer at least from my experience
Hi Beaver, i got atomic amz and love it thank you , got this car for friend , but it wount bind for me ,and no transmitter instructions, can you help ?all in 1 bord has no bind button just controller, i insulated moter wires from bottom of bord,hope you are doing well 👍
Normally you can turn the transmitter on first then the car later and it'll beep. Otherwise while both are on, hold the bind button. If nothing works then I'm afraid something is faulty either the board or the transmitter.
Beaver's Hobby Dude i've buy one just received today and somethings need to be say. The car looks fine in the box the package seems to be good the only issue i notice is the bind button is broken .. I put batteries inside and turn it on .. magic smoke comes out instantly .. I turn it off fast as i can, retry it and it run! But the car stop every time i full throttle and turn at the same time after some minutes it just come undrivable .. But wait that's not the biggest thing, i assume that i got a bad one .. After look closer on the components i noticed a lot of bad things, there is no ball bearings on all of the axle (basic metal part around the axles that make a lot of friction ..), the wheels are screwd on plastic shaft (no nuts like in u're video). Im really dissapointed and gone tell it to banggood. Maybe a video or update about this car can be usefull for the others that would buy this car ..
Yes, with some upgrades especially the tyres will make it much better than stock. However nowadays TRQ1 isn't a very good option anymore because they've changed a lot of stuffs. Up your budget a bit and get WLtoys K969 for drift car and K989 for touring car will last you longer and more precise to drift/drive.
Hello finaly i got my TRQ1 yesterday, but watching your video it looks very easy to controlled drift but actually it is not 😄, i know i need practice Kindly tell the upgrade which makes its easier to drift and remain in control as well 2nd can we use lipo battery in stock TRQ1? If yes then What power figures should be considered eg how much voltages or capacity
First upgrade is the front one way. It'll make the car turn in sharper. Next are tyres and springs. I use Kyosho Mini-Z drift tyres and Mini-Z AWD MA010 springs to tune it. Front soft spring and rear hard spring ought to do it. Almost forgot about the battery. You can use 1S Lipo battery with this car. As for the capacity, between 300 to 800mAh should be fine. Actually just use any 1S that's not bigger than the tray and you'll be fine.
@@BeaversHobby great thanks for help What is metal swing shaft? Is it the same part named as metal DOG BONE for wltoys k969& k989 If yes then should i buy that which is available for wltoys 1/28 scale, it would be the same size as TRQ1? And will it improves any performance or its just an upgrade to metal from plastic?
Here's a 1S battery you can use. hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-600mah-1s-25c-lipo-pack-w-walkera.html? You'll need to make an adapter to covert from Molex 51005 to JST-XH plug too.
6000KV will cover pretty much everything you want to do. bit.ly/2EYvfaf If you want slow drift then 3500KV from rocket is enough. www.ebay.com/itm/Rocket-3500KV-1-5mm-1-2S-Sensorless-Brushless-Motor-for-MINI-Z-Mini-RC-Car-XU/283477484224?
@@deandaniels203 The FETs can't handle amps draw or kickback or surge from motor without capacitor. I've been told that new version of the board has fixed this problem.
I don't have the car with me right now. I'll measure it and tell you tomorrow. Normally at the knuckle it should be 3x7x2mm 3mm inner diameter, 7mm outer, 2mm thickness. But please wait for confirmation. If you also got bushing on centre shaft and diff too then these one I know for sure. 2x5x2.5mm for the centre shaft. 6x10x3mm for the diff.
There's a way to overhaul this chassis in to Mini-Q Q5. You can find the parts in hobbyking.com by searching for "Turnigy TZ4" but I don't recommend. For the same money you can buy a new chassis called Atomic AMZ and that's a much better car. For the car shell you can get different one in hobbyking too. However you can also use Mini-Z body, the cheapest place is banzaihobby.com and rcmart.com . ps. Sorry for late reply, it didn't show up in my notification.
@@NotGyra Mini-Z or Firelap AE86 is not entirely compatibly with this chassis because it's for 90mm wheelbase. However you can move it a bit and shave the wheel arches off to make it work. Anyway, you can get Mini-Z GT86/BRZ to work with it directly because it's for 94mm wheelbase.
@@miralemnermina142 If you want to drive around normally, get the K989. If you want to drift, get this one (TRQ1). Also if you decide to get this one, don't put 2S lipo in it. The circuit board will burn. It can only take 1S lipo.
Hi! Should i get this one for drifting or the k969? This will be my jump to the rc world, i'm not planning on upgrading it until things start to break but i'm not afraid of upgrading/repairing it. The trq1 looks easy to repair and modify (plus 15€ cheaper), but seeing your older videos makes me wonder if the k969 would be a better choice
It drifts better than K969 and you don't have to fix it. Sinohobby told me they have fixed the fragile electronics problem so if that's true this car is really reliable.
@@MrScandalist699 Most carpet tracks are hi-grip so it depends on the tyres you use. Original tyres are OK, you'll have use pretty high speed to keep sliding.
Thanks for the heads up. They keep changing the component but at least the core chassis is still the same. The bearings got replaced by bushings though.
@@Retrograde99 Hey, I just received mine after waiting for 2 months only to realize there were no bearings. do you know where I could find them? thanks
The wheels are direct fit. Drive shafts from K989 is a tad longer (K989 is wide chassis but TRQ1 is narrow) so they won't fit. Pinion will fit, spur won't. Basically this TRQ1 is closer to Mini-Z AWD than WLtoys.
@@faizfaiz5693 Mini-Z spur gear can fit. It needs a bit of modification at the shaft end. File the flat spot down a but so Mini-Z gear would fit. Otherwise get the whole MD006 kit and use some spacer at the front and it'll fit perfectly.
Mostly at Banggood.com (it's where this car came from) for Mini-Z original parts I shop at Banzaihobby.com and for Mini-Z upgrades I got them from 3racing-parts.com .
As long as you have the voltage around where it should be, you can swap out the 4 AAA built-in plugin package with almost anything. I have mine modded for a 4.2v 18650 battery (used in vapes, for example). Getting it to fit is a struggle because it is definitely not meant for that size, but I made it work. Point is, any batter can work as long as you have a soldering iron and some basic electronics knowledge so you don't blow out your components from over-voltage. If you want high voltages for long usage times, use a resistor.
My steering is backwards how do I fix it?Is there a reverse switch on the transmitter?When I move wheel to the right it turns left and left turns right.It did this on its own it was working normal before I put energizer lithium’s in it
Some car got faulty board, I guess. Either that or there's error in the radio. The easiest way to fix is to swap the wires on the servo. Use something pointy to lift the prong that hold the pin in then pull the pin out. The wires you have to swap are brown with white, red with black. Here's the photo. imgur.com/IuoUfEz With this side up you'll see small plastic before the terminal. Lift that up and pull the wire out.
The Q5OP is the old generation suspension just like this one. It just has aluminium upgeades. If you want a good car to drive Q7 is better. But if you want beautiful car to look at Q5OP is a blinged up chassis with shiny parts and it looks better.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for your informative reply! In that case the TQ7 sounds more attractive. The brushless version doesn't have a transmitter included. Wich transmitter and receiver do you recommend? Thanks again!
@@icetea4345 Radiolink RC4GS because it's easy to use, menu is easy to navigate and it's really smooth. It also has gyro and can make things easier if you want to drift.
@@BeaversHobby That's fantastic! I didn't knew that a gyro could be included into the receiver. You are the best in this category! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and making these awesome video's!
Yes, pick the 94mm body so it fits perfectly. I said it in the video too but here's the whole procedure. You'll have to shave the side clip position of the body off a bit because it interferes with the chassis. Then take the metal plate off the back of original body and mount it on Mini-Z body. At the front you will have to shave the front lip from the chassis off to fit Mini-Z front lip. The holes are there, it just has extra parts. And that's it. You can check which one is 94mm from here kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/ and here. mini-z-guide.com/bodies.htm
@@erraddict Unfortunately I won't be able to do it. At least not now. I have to wait until at least October until I can order stuffs again. It's now summer here and everything is closed.
@@olafschermann1592 WLtoys K989 is much faster and better at touring but for drifting and differential compatibility with Mini-Z wise, this is better.
Both are great in different ways. If you want drift car TRQ1 is the best (electronics might not last long). If you want grip/touring car for normal driving K989 is the best (but need a fair bit of fixing). The question is do you want to drift or do you want to drive?
@@OJ6J Yes, K989 needs 98mm wide body or FWD series with 0mm offset wheels. TRQ7 needs 94mm body but you'll have to mod the magnet mount yourself. I've just answered someone here in the comment section with all the steps to do.
I'm sorry I won't be able to do it because I have glued all my Mini-Z bodies with the side clips and don't want to cut them off. However it's not that hard. Just trim the side clips holder on the body, take the rear plate out from original body, bend it and screw it down to the new body, cut the front off a bit to install Mini-Z front lip and that's it.
@@adrianadrianllibrando4041 Yes, it will. It's exact 94mm wheelbase. R32-35 are all 94mm. Here's how you fit it. www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41930055&postcount=16
The car is 32.99 USD. You can put a motor in it as fast as you like since you'll have to replace the board with an ESC (stock board doesn't support brushless). The chassis won't break unless you hit something really hard. Or the motor gets hot enough to melt it.
It'll drift on anything wood, concrete, carpet you name it. Except for the RCP race track. Actually you can but it's not practical and might potentially destroy the surface.
@@deandaniels203 I don't have all of that but they are all basic surfaces that all 1/28 drifters commonly play on. The difference is the grip level but then again you can tune it using different tyres.
Yes and no. If it's original WLtoys dogbone then it's too long. But if you get one from Aliexpress that has different colour like red and and blue on the shaft, those one will work because it's the same length ans Mini-Z AWD.
The new batch has small steering angle and it won't drift unless you extend or replace the servo arm and lift it up to make it fit in the bracket. Either that or replace the whole electronics.
That's a lame excuse for a 130 motor. My k969 has a real 130 motor and it has alot more power than that. The motor in that is something they toss in a cheap ass tyco. Very sad
![[Review] Atomic AMZ 1/27 4WD RC Car](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/u7Jsw8IW-zY/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Review] Atomic AMZ 1/27 4WD RC Car](/img/tr.png)
![[Review] Firelap IW05 - 1/28 4WD Touring/Drift Car](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9ZvoFw9sDG0/mqdefault.jpg)
*Attention all new buyers!* You won't get full bearings anymore. Now you'll get a car with brass bushings.
- 8 of 3x7x2mm for the wheel hubs.
- 4 of 6x10x3mm for the differentials.
- 2 of 2x5x2.5mm for the prop shaft.
There are other changes as well such as rear body mount is now poles and rubber pad instead of magnet, wheels are now held with screw to the swing arm. The only good change I can see is the new board which, presumably, won't fry when you hold the throttle for too long.
*Time stamps*
Package Content: 0:25
Chassis: 1:06
Body: 3:19
Electronics: 4:30
Test Drift: 5:36
Test Drift Verdict: 6:33
Upgrade Guide: 7:51
Price & Final verdict: 9:01
What upgrades you should get with the car: 9:17
did the first video posted have some problem?
when i finished the video and tried to like it, it got deleted
@@foxxyytofficial Yes, there was the problem in one caption. I accidentally wrote it uses 2S lipo instead of AAA battery.
Beaver's Hobby cant wait to see the next video about drifting with this car
Seems strange that it fried free wheeling the motor without any load, must have been a bad soldering job or fried because of the lack of capacitor back feeding into the esc.
Suppose this is worth fixing at least as it has a built in gyro & probably uses s08 package, give it a try replacing the fet that ended up frying for a more powerful one and see if that helps or if it just fries that one too, a s08 mosfet doesn't cost much compared too replacing the electronics anywhy & you might have some old rc board with one you can grab as well thats perhaps from a scrapped project or similar.
Regardless though i might actually buy this chassis just too grab the board for my mini-z mr01 thats been on the shelf for a while.
Also have you tried setting up the mini-q q2 for 90mm wheelbase yet and tried any motors in that ?
@@Mini-z1994 It's strange indeed. I ended up replacing the whole board with ESC + receiver because the servo is not precise and worse still, it's jerky with this board so I think replacing FET is not worth it. You might get better result when the servo is controlled by Mini-Z board. Gyro means so little to me because I also have on-board gyro on my Radiolink and even that I rarely use it.
Anyway, I might salvage a FET from my QQ board if I have time.
I'm keeping my Q2 94mm at the moment (MM2 motor mount can't do 90mm). It's agile enough for me to drive around my room. The motors haven't arrive yet. Well, the post here takes very, very long time to anyway so I'm not surprise. The onlt thing I've done is replacing the tyres for original Kyosho tyres 30 degrees and it's much better to drive. Even better than my MR03 with RM motor mount.
I been waiting for this review and I can’t wait for mine to come in the mail.I am glad the parts are compatible with mini awd.I am looking forward to the upgrade videos and I plan on upgrading mine just like yours.Thx for making these videos they are very detailed and give us a lot of info.thx again and keep up the awesome work.
If you recently bought this kit and got one of the the non ball bearing batch, lubricate ALL the bronze/brass bushings before running the car, because yes they are dried out, and the motor will just scream out and move very very very slow.
Pad/Cushion the servo, as well as the 130 motor underneath with a thin 1mm/2mm EVA craft foam cut according to size of area. Make sure no padding interferes with other parts.
Why? Raises the servo (little bit more steering), Raises the motor as The spur gear tends to pop out in which you may experience having difficulty of no reverse or no forward after doing reverse.
It "MAY NOT RUN" with 4x 1.5v AAA alkaline/non rechargeable (weird experience, luckily the board didnt fry if its because of the voltage), recommend 4x 1.2v AAA (which is common).
Board has light indicator, blinks if battery is running low/not enough power to drift.
Lubricate moving parts with machine oil every before use. Clear drive shafts of hair and dust after playing.
Now, Run Stock until you upgrade according to beaver's suggestion. Enjoy.
yes, mine only ever run 1.25v x 4 of NiCad AAA, never had problem!
You included a lot of valuable information. Thanks so much. I was originally going to get a WLTOYS A202, but after seeing your video, I'm definitely reconsidering. I appreciate you listing out all your components. Awesome channel. Glad to be a subscriber.
Just thought I’d drop in here and let everyone know that the 2020 update body mounting uses a piece of foam screwed onto the body with 2 holes for 2 ball hitch style pegs to slide into.
Austen Reavey mine was a piece of rubber and I bought it a couple of months ago
NarrowEmpress1 I have the same, but it looks and feels a lot like foam lol
Right to put the message at the top for 8:13, as the Tamiya (Mabuchi/SMC) motors are supposed to be used with 3V. Overvolting they will not last as long especially not with the brushes in most of them.
Yes, that's a miss on my part.
@@BeaversHobbyneh, the statement is there... But you could add a note to the description and point to this. I believe you also had a video about this, but those where on regular miniz (and believe you mentioned this for WLToys not working due to the 2S setup)
New board for this car is much more reliable, but steering angle became relatively small too. I've fixed this problem with adding two 3kOhms resistors to its 5-wire servo(brown and white wire). Now my TRQ1 got full range steering. lol
Nice find! Thanks for the info.
This works. I put 3.3kOhms and it turns almost half a circle lol. Gonna change it to 3k when i can find one. Lol
Would be interesting to see this with a 10a ESC , 2s and tires with grip. My q36 destroys plastic drive shaft but I bought a pack of 16 for $4
Nice videos man! Really appreciate the effort and you can see you are passionate about it. Now you gave me the RC drifting virus! the good side is that it is cheaper than my other hobbies.
just bought a trq1 from banggood. fyi the chassis is now black plastic instead of the transparent blue.
everything works except for the servo which has too little travel. at max steering dual rate i’m only managing ~1.2m diameter turn circles which is huge and have trouble initiating drifts. may i ask what kinda turning circle diameters are your cars doing? i hope there’s a mod i can do cos i don’t wanna switch out all the electronics
and thanks beaver for the informative video!
Before the mod I got about 65cm turning circle.
If the servo movement is small, try adjusting the knob on the radio, there's ST/DR knob that limit the steering.
Beaver's Hobby the DR is already set to maximum
@@karakoram7 The probably changed something that affect the steering. Maybe you can try using other longer servo horn.
don’t think a longer horn would fit. took the servo out to inspect and there was nothing in the steering linkage that was binding. the servo just wasn’t moving enough even though st/dr was maximum. will contact banggood to see what they can do.
@@karakoram7 Yes, tell them the steering doesn't work as intended.
I was curious if you could provide a link to the weight you used thanks
Mine is from gaming mouse. You can use coins too. Here're some weight strips for RC. hobbyking.com/en_us/fe-balance-weight-60g-x-2-bag.html
Not that it will make any difference than using something you can find around your house though.
It’s a short wheel base. It would be cool if you could fit most model car bodies on it
Yes, a lot of narrow bodies with 94mm wheelbase fit. I'm now using Toyota GT86.
ATTENTION, Banggood delivered me a much worse quality product them that in the video! The achassis on mine came very brittle, including many cracks around the screws. The ball bearings have beam replaced by cheaper, less efficient "bearrings". Just to add to the horror history,
the electronics fried right away, similar to what happened in the video, but much quicker.
Contact them. The bushing instead of ball bearings is the change but cracked chassis is definitely defect.
Good video from you. Plz do a video on how to upgrade a Kyosho First Mini Z( the initial d version) thanks. 👍👍👍
Unfortunately the 1st Mini-Z is not really upgradeable. You'll stuck with the basic electronics unless you mod the whole thing and by that point buying a standard Mini-Z is cheaper.
✌🏻😎🏴I ordered 3 of these. What went wrong with the electrics? Why did it happen? & will it happen to mine? What can I do to prevent this from happening to mine. I ordered the white, the red, and the black&green one. Or should I cancel the order? I listened to your advice and I also have a k989 & k969 now. I just realised they are both the same chassis 😂 They arrived this week. I haven’t followed along with your videos yet or modified them in any way. But I will. & if I ever teach the stuff I learn from you to anyone else. You can guarantee I’m pointing them towards my source. Keep up the good work.
The problem with this one was either the FET seems to can't handle long opening of throttle or backfire/interference from the motor without capacitor. Mini-Q told me they fixed this problem in the new board but who knows which batch will come with those. So to be on the safe side, solder non-polar capacitor no.104 to the motor (I did it in the upgrade video of this car) and don't hold the throttle too long. That should help with board lifespan.
Also thanks for watching and hope you get something useful out of my videos. :D
Thank you for the awesome review! It seems that the manufacturer has changed from lug nuts to screws for the wheels. Do you know if the new ones could be changed to lug nut type?
Upgrade the swing shafts to metal. Use Mini-Z AWD parts for it and you'll get smoother drivetrain as well.
@@BeaversHobby mystery solved. I've been looking everywhere to try to figure it out. Thank you so much! I love your channel since you do reviews on vehicles that are hobby grade with toy price.
www.banggood.com/TRQ1-2-4G-Mini-Drift-RC-Car-p-1390549.html?p=PF13121622362201505M&ID=228&cur_warehouse=CN . Upon closer inspection, yours came with lug nuts. It seems that banggood only sells one with screws now. I wonder what happens to the compatibility now
Hi, thank you for this review. Do you prefer this car to the wltoys k969? The wltoys seems more solid.
K969 has more headroom to upgrade and a better car overall. The only problem it got is the brittle gears that wear out very quickly.
This on the other hand is easier to drive (because of gyro), directly compatible with Kyosho differential so it's easy to install front one way but in the end it's not as precise as K969.
Thank you for your answer 👍
@@thibautroellinger7335 My pleasure.
Did you know Kyosho Mini Z also sometimes goes backwards by itself? Its not only the Mini Q TRQ1
Oh... I didn't know that. Mine only refuse to bind sometimes and the new one hasn't got a problem yet apart from the antenna is about to break.
Beaver's Hobby The transmitter tends to make the car go backward when you have Duracell batteries in it so for kyosho mini z just stay away from duracell batteries.
@@narrowempress1625 Even if that's from not getting enough power it's still a weird glitch to have.
Beaver's Hobby I fix it by resetting the transmitter. Also which car do you refer to when you say the antenna is about to break and it refuses to bind?
@@narrowempress1625 My old MR-03 Sports needs a bit of turning on and off to make it receive the signal which is a bit annoying.
My MA-030 has a loose antenna but I can fix it easily with just a simple soldering job. Not really what I expect from a 250 Euros car.
I bought one of these and right out of the box it isn't working properly. After just a second or two of throttle, it will stop. I can get it to go again, but it will stop again in just a few seconds? Not sure if it's the transmitter or maybe a gyro setting, but right now it looks like I wasted 40 bucks. Any suggestions?
It sounds like either transmitter stopped transmitting or the car doesn't receive any power.
How far were you from the car? Also what's the battery you are using? While it stops, does the steering work?
Try changing the battery in both transmitter and car.
Also try to re-bind the car with the transmitter (if I remember correctly) turn both on, press button on the car then press the bind button on the transmitter.
If it's still working intermittently then you should contact the shop you bought it from.
@@BeaversHobby even with the car right next to me, it's still stopping. Batteries in car and transmitter are brand new. I think it may be related to the power switch, which doesn't click firmly into place when you turn the car on (steering doesn't work when it stops). I've contacted banggood to see what they can do. Right now it's a huge disappointment.
@@escapewheel821 If even the steering doesn't work and LED shut off then it's power related. You can try to bridge the power switch so it's always on.
But if the LED still there when it stops then it's transmitter related.
I have just received my car and it has the same problem as yours. After a few seconds the red LED starts blinking and the steering doesn't work during the period. I hope there is a solution for it. Btw I bought mine from AliExpress.
@@berkayksebay It can be a problem with the board. Contact the seller and see what they can do.
Do you know what function the connector in the middle of the board has?
It's bypass from the battery. You can plug stuffs in to it like lights, transponder, etc.
@@BeaversHobbythanks, I ve just put lights and I discover how it works. Thanks a lot!
@@virtualpinball5065 My pleasure.
Hello, my TRQ1 steers left instead of right and vice versa. Do I have to change something on the servo? Thank you
So you got the defective one. Don't worry. This is fixable. Take a look at the servo plug. There will be 5 wires: red, black for power and the other 3 for potentiometer. You can take the wire out by using a tweezer to lift a tab on the plug and pull the wire out. Swap the red and black first. Then try to swap 2 of the other 3 until you get it working in the opposite direction.
Hi Beaver, how easy would you rate this car for drifting on a scale of 1-10 where 10 is the easiest? I've put on drift tires on my 4wd cars and can't drift for my life. Hoping this car can train me. Thx
For an AWD car give it 7 because of the limited steering can make it a bit hard to initiate a drift but after that control is good. However beware that the current batch has a problem with the board so the steering is not enough even to drive it as a grip car. I suggest the WLtoys K969 and then put a piece of plastic or rubber behind the radio trigger to limit the speed. That one is a solid 8/10 after fixing, don't have to mod, just fix it.
Q7 is 9/10 and AMZ with bell crank upgrade is 9.5/10 in case you are wondering.
@@BeaversHobby Oh, the Q7 is so good? I have it but only use it for grip. I will try putting drift tires on it and see.
@@Diamondbac It's great. Here's Q7 drift in action. ruclips.net/video/3dUMMfmmZi8/видео.html
This is my setup, I recently changed it back to 50-50 and 94mm wheelbase but the alignment is the same. ruclips.net/video/kCjglUnXBQU/видео.html
Μπράβο σου για τα βίντεο είσαι πολύ καλός και μας έχεις βοηθήσει σε πολλά πράγματα!!Συνεχισε έτσι την καλή δουλειά!!
Ευχαριστώ πολύ! Θα συνεχίσω να κάνω ότι μπορώ και όσο μπορώ.
Καλησπέρα ξανά!! Μου ήρθε το δικό μου και δυστυχώς δεν ήρθε ball bearings ξερεις κάποιο σετ που να τα περιλαμβάνει όλα;
@@spirosmat6838 Δεν βρήκα σετ ρουλεμάν για WLtoys K989 (είναι τα ίδια). Και τα hubs δεν είναι το ίδιο με Mini-Z AWD. Οπότε καλύτερα να το πάρεις ξεχωριστά από κάπου πχ. ebay. Θα χρειαστείς 8 τεμ. 3x7x2mm για hubs,
4 τεμ. 6x10x3mm για diffs και 2 τεμ. 2x5x2.5mm για centre shaft.
Σε ευχαριστώ πολύ για την βοήθεια!!!
@@spirosmat6838 Παρακαλώ!
This is the mini a that I have what battery n charger should I get
The easiest one to get anywhere is Ikea ladda AAA 900mAh and Eneloop. You can also get Ikea charger. It's really good.
@@BeaversHobby do u got a link to it I can't find it
@@claytondunlop248 Depends on where you live but here's link for Ikea stuffs if you have a store near you. www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ladda-rechargeable-battery-90303880/
www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kvarts-battery-charger-00446671/
@@BeaversHobby is 1000 or 1200 mah good to use in that car
@@claytondunlop248 There's 1100 mAh from Orion. That one is good too. You can find it in Mini-Z racing shops.
Higher mAh tends to have lower power punch and more weight so keep it between 750-900 to get a good acceleration.
4:16-4:18 that's a very nice save
Is anyone else having an issue with the car going from stopped to forward or reverse, or from from forward to reverse and vice-versa? The little red light inside the body blinks, and when blinking the car wont move. I have to wait a while then try again before it engages...
If it suddenly blinks then the car is most likely has a power cut. This might be due to the battery voltage drop or faulty circuit board.
@@BeaversHobby yes it does suddenly blink. What's the best way to test if it's the circuit board or battery? Thanks!!
@@sk8klown88 Look at your battery type, if it's rechargeable NiMH, Eneloop or some powerful Alkaline like Panasonic then the problem is most likely from the board.
@@BeaversHobby ok I will look. It does seem like the problem is getting worse the more I drive jt. Could it be as the AAA batteries drain, it's causing a power cut? Maybe I can upgrade to a 1S lipo
@@sk8klown88 Yes, voltage drop can cause the problem. Still, I'd say you can keep using AAA but get some good rechargeable battery. Or if you have 1S lying around you can try that too. If the problem persists then contact the shop, I think the board is gone.
My mini q trq 1 will not move only the steering works. Sometimes it goes forward a little bit and stops. It’s like it is out of batteries. I have tried replacing the batteries in the controller and car. Do you have any idea why it does that?
What battery are you using? If it's alkaline then it'll work for the radio but not so much for the car.
Also the mainboard could be faulty.
@@BeaversHobby I was using rechargeable batteries for both car and transmitter and recently I put alkaline in the car and rechargeable in transmitter. I also tried 1s lipo but nothing worked. I will try to transfer the board from my broken wltoys k989 to the trq1.
@@narrowempress1625 Yes, move the board from K989 to to this car and the servo as well. At least you'll have a working car this way.
@@BeaversHobby the board still lights up like normal. Should I try rebinding? How do I bind it?
@@narrowempress1625 It's autobind so I don't see a way you can re-bind it apart from holding the bind button on the radio while the car is on.
I plugged in a 7.4 mini lipo, and it fried my ESC too, the board will not take any more than 6volts?
No, it won't. It even fried itself with 5.6V for me.
Beaver's Hobby so how do they account for 4 AA 1.5 volt batteries?
@@maxrc8364 It should work up to 6v but somehow the board's quality is mixed and some of us just got a defective one.
Hi Beaver's Hobby,can you tell me if there is a system on the motherboard to prevent the complete discharge of the AAA hi-mh batteries?
It's called low voltage cut-off. This system is present in many ESCs. If you use a well-established brand like Hobbywing it will come with one already. This one is for brushed ESC but it works with 5x NiMH and above www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=359&filter_attr=5426.5599 .
This one is for brushless ESC and it works with 4x NiMH toowww.hobbywingdirect.com/products/ezrun-18a-sl-esc?variant=212574911 .
But normally you don't have to worry too much because if you use 4x AAA with any cheap ESC, the BEC output to receiver depends on the total input and not many receivers can work down to 3.6V (0.9V x4) so it'll be alright. The receiver will cut out once you go lower than 4.2V anyway.
Thank you Beaver's😀👍🏻
@@thyristor419 My pleasure.
hello good day, can I ask where to buy some parts for my mini drift car, tia
Hello. It depends on the car you have but generally most of the parts are compatible with Mini-Z AWD so you can get the wheels, tyres sometimes CVD and differential from your local Kyosho Mini-Z distributor. For online sources you can get from rcmart.com and banzaihobby.com . These are my usual shops. If it's specific for Mini-Q or WLtoys then it's either AliExpress or banggood.
Do you think this is worth the money compared to the k989? because on bangood the k989 costs 20 dollers more than the mini-q you reviewed in this vid.(im not tight budget so every doller saved counts) Also is it easy and cheap to upgrade the electronics if they break?
Yes, K989 worth $20 more because it has better suspension and better electronics. And it's cheaper & easier to replace the electronics as well if anything goes wrong.
Sorry for late reply.
@@BeaversHobby Thank You!
Hi, seems, servo getting dead slowly. Could you advice pls, what could be good replace? I tryed to find 5g servo on ali with this size but not succed.
If you want exact replacement it's going to be very hard to find because no one makes it this size with 5 wires except original Mini-Q spare. It used to be on Hobbyking but not anymore.
You might want to do the whole electronics upgrade with 3 wires and metal gear. Here's Banggood . bit.ly/2PfUtWJ
And here's in aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000339217298.html
@@BeaversHobby Hi, thnx. I just ordered cheaper one, with plastic from BG for 3 wires. I will try to convert it to 5 wires by my self, just throwing away a pcb from servo. :)
@@Weaselpro Yes, removing the board also works too.
Hi. Which offset wheels would I need for a "flush" fitment, rather than a "tucked" fitment?
Depends on the body you use. For this EVO you'll need 2.5mm offset.
the info is clear bro, thanks
Hello, I have tried to find the Mini Q trq1 on banggood but they say there’s error 404 and website was not fetched. I cannot buy it. Does this happen to you? Last week I went on and it was fine and it was available for purchase. Do you have any idea about it? Anyway I bought a WLToys K989. Can you please do a review on the stock one of K989? Thanks. By the way I am a subscriber of yours and your channel is really good and I like the 1/28 and 1/27 scale content.
Banggood website is a bit slow for me in the past few days. You can try again and see if it works now www.banggood.com/custlink/mvGyY2BBrZ .
I've done the K989 review already but it's bundled with the full series of fixing it into budget touring car. ruclips.net/p/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb
Beaver's Hobby Thank you for the reply and also, what do you think is better? WLToys K989 or Sinohobby Mini Q TRQ1? I have already ordered a K989.
@@narrowempress1625 They are good in their own way. TRQ1 is easier to find Mini-Z compatible parts and gears are more durable while WLtoys has more headroom to upgrade & mod, better to drive, handles powerful motor better and has much better suspension system. Overall WLKtoys is a better car.
Beaver's Hobby Thank you for your reply and do you know what plug the light plug uses for the WLToys?
@@narrowempress1625 You can use red JST plug and some resistors to connect the light to the battery. Here's how to calculate and wire the light. ruclips.net/video/_g4uwUtobPk/видео.html
This is a good review! I am having problems even trying to get my AAA powered car to drift at all? What could be the problem, or is it just underpowered???
If it can spin the wheels then it got enough power. This also depends on the battery. I use Ikea 900mAh rechargeable and it's more than enough. The really big concern is the steering angle. If it's not enough it won't initiate the drift. Lately I've got some complaint that steering angle is not good. Try to see if the turning circle is less than 60cm. I got about 50 if I remember correctly and that's enough for drifting. If the turning circle is wide, it won't drift.
The servo is 5 wires... How can i use a 3 wire servo?
Take the board out and wire the 5 wires directly to the motor and potentiometer. Or upgrade the whole thing to standard 3 wire system. Like in this video. ruclips.net/video/rTveWKmr8xY/видео.html
Hi Beaver, i would like to play drift. but i had bought the wrong one, K989. what parts shall i change to make it drift? will it still harder to drift after modify K989 due no gyro? Thanks
If you already fixed the drivetrain and the suspension next step is to lock the diff and replace the tyres to Mini-Z drift tyres along with the wheels. If you get drift tyres off Banggood or Aliexpress some of them are pretty bad. Also don't forget to move the ball link on the servo horn up to the top hole, it'll increase the steering angle. Also you can try and pull the preload clips off the shock to soften the suspension.
You don't really need gyro for AWD drift car so don't worry about that. If you want you can add something like this one. ruclips.net/video/fM4rk6PV0ls/видео.html
The car is also too fast to control so you can do a simple mod like putting a small piece of rubber or plastic behind the trigger so you don't pull it all the way in. The other way is to do dual rate mod on the transmitter. ruclips.net/video/psmrXPsPpY8/видео.html
Good luck!
can you suggest a good battery for this one. ?? i got one and use normal batteries. Car run super slow
Eneloop or Ikea Ladda. They are great for RC.
@@BeaversHobby thanks man really appreciate this.
any idea what protocol it use?
can i use my kyosho kt-19 (FHS) or KT-18 (ASF) to control this car?
Tested everything from my Multioprotocol and nothing works. No ASF too. Seems like Mini-Q has its own protocol this time.
Thanks. Appreciate your testing. Great to know. 👍
Protocol... So confusing and troublesome 😵
Hi, which would you recommend between this and wltoys k989, for out of the box drifting without mods (for starters).
This one is easier for beginner but it's slower than WLtoys. If you want a fast car for hi-speed drifting, get the WLtoys K969 it's drift car out of the box. If you want precision drifting at slow speed, get this one.
Which will u revoked for beginner
@@BeaversHobby do you know any that are ready to run but slow too?
@@alie5146 There's Firelap IW04M. The original electronics are pretty bad but the chassis is good and it's a good base for modding especially to fit a Mini-Z body.
Review: ruclips.net/video/odfvxe6lIHM/видео.html
Mod: ruclips.net/video/qLM3Qh6kku4/видео.html
What would you recommend the TRQ1 or wltoys k989.
For drift, TRQ1.
For touring and also if you like fixing & modding, K989.
Nice Beaver thank you gonna order two rite now!! Will be following all your videos......
Hello to you
what is your final set-up?
upgrade parts included
thanking you and good luck to you
Here's my final setup. Links to all the parts are in the description. ruclips.net/video/rTveWKmr8xY/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much for your quick response and good end of the year to you
@@jean-lucdesenne3840 My pleasure. Have a very Happy New Year!
Could i posibly put a plasma dash or ultra dash in it ? Or would it be too much to handle on 4.2v 1s 30c
It'll work as long as the board doesn't cut the power. I've tried those in Q2 version with some success. ruclips.net/video/XdJIDhzw0xE/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby yeah well the dash motors are meant for 3 volt max and then using them whit 6 volt they get hot very fast that is what happened whit my mini q and the aaa batteries got hot as wel and then the power was just gone so it is really just the right voltage and the right chemistry like lipo’s is better when you want them to run longer at least from my experience
I love your videos. Keep it up!
What do you recomend ? Wltoys or mini q ?
It depends on what you want.
Mini-Q Q1 for simplicity and more Mini-Q AWD compatible out of the box.
WLtoys for modability.
Can you attach an FPV system on it??
Yes, of course. There's an auxiliary plug so you can plug your AIO camera into that and get the power once you turn the switch on.
@@BeaversHobby awesome!!
Great video. Thanks for the upgrade links.
Hi Beaver, i got atomic amz and love it thank you , got this car for friend , but it wount bind for me ,and no transmitter instructions, can you help ?all in 1 bord has no bind button just controller, i insulated moter wires from bottom of bord,hope you are doing well 👍
Normally you can turn the transmitter on first then the car later and it'll beep. Otherwise while both are on, hold the bind button.
If nothing works then I'm afraid something is faulty either the board or the transmitter.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you so much Beaver 's Hobby i will try that ! And understand,,chance we take,👍
@@239giant2 Good luck!
Hi, do you know if we can use an other transmitter? Wich radio protocol does it use?
Unfortunately the protocol is proprietary to this car and there's no upgrade transmitter unless you replace the whole board.
U're videos are so usefull and professional i love it.. Can you say me if on 1s we have a nice punch or it is slow with 3.7v?
It's pretty quick with 1S. You get a lot of acceleration because of less weight.
Beaver's Hobby Dude i've buy one just received today and somethings need to be say. The car looks fine in the box the package seems to be good the only issue i notice is the bind button is broken .. I put batteries inside and turn it on .. magic smoke comes out instantly .. I turn it off fast as i can, retry it and it run! But the car stop every time i full throttle and turn at the same time after some minutes it just come undrivable .. But wait that's not the biggest thing, i assume that i got a bad one .. After look closer on the components i noticed a lot of bad things, there is no ball bearings on all of the axle (basic metal part around the axles that make a lot of friction ..), the wheels are screwd on plastic shaft (no nuts like in u're video).
Im really dissapointed and gone tell it to banggood. Maybe a video or update about this car can be usefull for the others that would buy this car ..
@@Aw4yed Thanks. I really appreciate your feedback. I'll make a video detailing the changes and bearing size in case someone want to upgrade it.
Hey dude, I realy want to buy one, worst? IF i do that upgrades, Will be to much Better then stock?
Yes, with some upgrades especially the tyres will make it much better than stock.
However nowadays TRQ1 isn't a very good option anymore because they've changed a lot of stuffs. Up your budget a bit and get WLtoys K969 for drift car and K989 for touring car will last you longer and more precise to drift/drive.
@@BeaversHobby tanks dude o/ help a lot
Hello finaly i got my TRQ1 yesterday, but watching your video it looks very easy to controlled drift but actually it is not 😄, i know i need practice
Kindly tell the upgrade which makes its easier to drift and remain in control as well
2nd can we use lipo battery in stock TRQ1? If yes then What power figures should be considered eg how much voltages or capacity
First upgrade is the front one way. It'll make the car turn in sharper. Next are tyres and springs. I use Kyosho Mini-Z drift tyres and Mini-Z AWD MA010 springs to tune it. Front soft spring and rear hard spring ought to do it.
Almost forgot about the battery. You can use 1S Lipo battery with this car. As for the capacity, between 300 to 800mAh should be fine. Actually just use any 1S that's not bigger than the tray and you'll be fine.
@@BeaversHobby Can i upgrade the chassis too??
@@NotGyra You can replace the chassis with carbon chassis but it's rather pointless.
@@BeaversHobby alrightt i try to upgrade the major part first tqtq
@@BeaversHobby great thanks for help
What is metal swing shaft? Is it the same part named as metal DOG BONE for wltoys k969& k989
If yes then should i buy that which is available for wltoys 1/28 scale, it would be the same size as TRQ1?
And will it improves any performance or its just an upgrade to metal from plastic?
What lips battery are you refuring to do you have a link
Here's a 1S battery you can use.
hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-600mah-1s-25c-lipo-pack-w-walkera.html?
You'll need to make an adapter to covert from Molex 51005 to JST-XH plug too.
Excellent reviews 👌👍
so im thinking of getting this one and making it brushless. I want it for drifting. Is there a certain kv i should look for?
6000KV will cover pretty much everything you want to do.
bit.ly/2EYvfaf
If you want slow drift then 3500KV from rocket is enough. www.ebay.com/itm/Rocket-3500KV-1-5mm-1-2S-Sensorless-Brushless-Motor-for-MINI-Z-Mini-RC-Car-XU/283477484224?
What would you say is a good cheap drift car to start with.
This one, the TRQ1. It's ready to drift out of the box and there's nothing to fix as long as your electronics last.
@@BeaversHobby What do you think was the issue with the electronics on your car.
@@deandaniels203 The FETs can't handle amps draw or kickback or surge from motor without capacitor.
I've been told that new version of the board has fixed this problem.
I just got mine based based on this review but it came with bushings instead of bearings on the wheel hubs, do you know which ones I can use?
I don't have the car with me right now. I'll measure it and tell you tomorrow. Normally at the knuckle it should be 3x7x2mm 3mm inner diameter, 7mm outer, 2mm thickness. But please wait for confirmation.
If you also got bushing on centre shaft and diff too then these one I know for sure. 2x5x2.5mm for the centre shaft. 6x10x3mm for the diff.
@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot!
@@ogrope1 I've re-checked the bearings. They are exactly what I posted earlier.
@@BeaversHobby perfect, thanks!
@@ogrope1 My pleasure.
hello can i know where to buy the upgrade chassis for this model? and the car shell tqtq
There's a way to overhaul this chassis in to Mini-Q Q5. You can find the parts in hobbyking.com by searching for "Turnigy TZ4" but I don't recommend.
For the same money you can buy a new chassis called Atomic AMZ and that's a much better car.
For the car shell you can get different one in hobbyking too. However you can also use Mini-Z body, the cheapest place is banzaihobby.com and rcmart.com .
ps. Sorry for late reply, it didn't show up in my notification.
@@BeaversHobby alright, tq bro, i would try this trq1 first, this is my first 1/28 scale rc car tho haha was looking for an ae86 shell hehe
@@NotGyra Mini-Z or Firelap AE86 is not entirely compatibly with this chassis because it's for 90mm wheelbase. However you can move it a bit and shave the wheel arches off to make it work.
Anyway, you can get Mini-Z GT86/BRZ to work with it directly because it's for 94mm wheelbase.
@@BeaversHobby hmm nice i'll tey soon tq bro
Very good video! Thank you!
I'm looking at cheap RC car to play with this summer, should I get this or K989?
If I got this one I would immediately do a lipo upgrade
@@miralemnermina142 If you want to drive around normally, get the K989. If you want to drift, get this one (TRQ1).
Also if you decide to get this one, don't put 2S lipo in it. The circuit board will burn. It can only take 1S lipo.
@@BeaversHobby I will get the K989 then, thanks!
@@miralemnermina142 My pleasure. Have fun!
Will this take a 2s lipo or will the cheap pcb melt?hahaha lots of fun with mine although lots of work to get it to run,
No, it can't take 2S. I won't exactly melt but a lot of smoke will come out. 😋
@@BeaversHobby thought so well many thanks for saving the fire alarm! Great content by the way keep it up,
@@efaracing4000 My pleasure.
Hi! Should i get this one for drifting or the k969? This will be my jump to the rc world, i'm not planning on upgrading it until things start to break but i'm not afraid of upgrading/repairing it. The trq1 looks easy to repair and modify (plus 15€ cheaper), but seeing your older videos makes me wonder if the k969 would be a better choice
It drifts better than K969 and you don't have to fix it. Sinohobby told me they have fixed the fragile electronics problem so if that's true this car is really reliable.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you!
What is the type of connector battery box in the car?
JST-XH 2.5mm 2-pin
@@BeaversHobby Thank you
@@MrScandalist699 My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby Maybe a weird question. And how does a car drift on a carpet?
@@MrScandalist699 Most carpet tracks are hi-grip so it depends on the tyres you use. Original tyres are OK, you'll have use pretty high speed to keep sliding.
There is a new design now for the model the 4 in 1 is now also different
Thanks for the heads up. They keep changing the component but at least the core chassis is still the same. The bearings got replaced by bushings though.
@@BeaversHobby Yes I was like Noooo and well I need to replace those then
@@Retrograde99 Hey, I just received mine after waiting for 2 months only to realize there were no bearings. do you know where I could find them? thanks
This swing saft can ugrade us swift saft wl toys k969 or not?
No, it's a bit shorter than WLtoys' shaft.
@@BeaversHobby thankyou
@@IYNGAME My pleasure.
hi can you reply to me
this kit trq1
can i fix diff gear from k989
diff gear,pinion,spur and drive shaft from k989 to this kit
The wheels are direct fit. Drive shafts from K989 is a tad longer (K989 is wide chassis but TRQ1 is narrow) so they won't fit.
Pinion will fit, spur won't.
Basically this TRQ1 is closer to Mini-Z AWD than WLtoys.
thank you
so diff gear can fix mini z
spur i can fitt ? can you share the brand can fix this trq
and this kit orginal is awd or cs
@@faizfaiz5693 AWD 50:50.
@@faizfaiz5693 Mini-Z spur gear can fit. It needs a bit of modification at the shaft end. File the flat spot down a but so Mini-Z gear would fit. Otherwise get the whole MD006 kit and use some spacer at the front and it'll fit perfectly.
where do you shop?
Mostly at Banggood.com (it's where this car came from) for Mini-Z original parts I shop at Banzaihobby.com and for Mini-Z upgrades I got them from 3racing-parts.com .
"It broke before I finished testing it" Well, that answers all my questions.
Yes, the electronics are weak. But the chassis is good though.
For sure the upgrades look much-needed. I guess it's not bad for a starting platform to work on!
เทียบกันระหว่าง wltoys k989 กับ Mini-Q TRQ1 ค่ายใหนหน้าเล่นกว่ากันครับ ประมาณว่า แต่งได้เยอะ ดริฟท์เนียนๆ อะไหล่หาง่าย ขอบคุณครับ
แต่งง่ายขับง่ายต้อง TRQ1 ครับ คือใช้อะไหล่ Mini-Z ได้พอ ๆ กันแต่ไม่ต้องหาก้านล้อยาว ดริฟท์เนียนกว่าด้วยเพราะมันมีไจโรให้สำหรับผู้เริ่มต้น
แต่ถ้าเอาของซ่อมหาง่าย WLtoys K969 จะหาง่ายกว่า เพราะคนเล่นเยอะ
สรุปคือดีกันคนละอย่าง ถ้าจะเล่นดริฟท์ผมแนะนำ TRQ1 ครับ
If I cut the wires can I use a 1S lipo ? Thanks nice vid !
Yes, it can. I've tried it and I've seen some places selling it with 1S lipo too.
As long as you have the voltage around where it should be, you can swap out the 4 AAA built-in plugin package with almost anything. I have mine modded for a 4.2v 18650 battery (used in vapes, for example). Getting it to fit is a struggle because it is definitely not meant for that size, but I made it work. Point is, any batter can work as long as you have a soldering iron and some basic electronics knowledge so you don't blow out your components from over-voltage. If you want high voltages for long usage times, use a resistor.
My steering is backwards how do I fix it?Is there a reverse switch on the transmitter?When I move wheel to the right it turns left and left turns right.It did this on its own it was working normal before I put energizer lithium’s in it
Some car got faulty board, I guess. Either that or there's error in the radio.
The easiest way to fix is to swap the wires on the servo. Use something pointy to lift the prong that hold the pin in then pull the pin out. The wires you have to swap are brown with white, red with black. Here's the photo. imgur.com/IuoUfEz
With this side up you'll see small plastic before the terminal. Lift that up and pull the wire out.
Great review! What are your thougts of this one? "SINOHOBBY Mini-Q TR-Q5OP-BL
"
The Q5OP is the old generation suspension just like this one. It just has aluminium upgeades. If you want a good car to drive Q7 is better. But if you want beautiful car to look at Q5OP is a blinged up chassis with shiny parts and it looks better.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for your informative reply! In that case the TQ7 sounds more attractive. The brushless version doesn't have a transmitter included. Wich transmitter and receiver do you recommend? Thanks again!
@@icetea4345 Radiolink RC4GS because it's easy to use, menu is easy to navigate and it's really smooth. It also has gyro and can make things easier if you want to drift.
@@BeaversHobby That's fantastic! I didn't knew that a gyro could be included into the receiver. You are the best in this category! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and making these awesome video's!
@@icetea4345 My pleasure. I'm doing my best.
Spettacolare !!!...molto bella !!!
Goodjob bro
Is the link updated?
Most of the links are the same, they just changed the content to new version of the car.
Ok thx man
3 people don't have a 1/28 scale R/C Car.
Can we get different bodies to fit? Mini-Z perhaps?
Yes, pick the 94mm body so it fits perfectly. I said it in the video too but here's the whole procedure. You'll have to shave the side clip position of the body off a bit because it interferes with the chassis. Then take the metal plate off the back of original body and mount it on Mini-Z body.
At the front you will have to shave the front lip from the chassis off to fit Mini-Z front lip. The holes are there, it just has extra parts.
And that's it.
You can check which one is 94mm from here
kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/
and here.
mini-z-guide.com/bodies.htm
@@BeaversHobby you're very helpful. Thank you for being so helpful
@@erraddict My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby would you be willing to make a video of this? I fear shaving off the front lip will make this mod irreversible
@@erraddict Unfortunately I won't be able to do it. At least not now. I have to wait until at least October until I can order stuffs again. It's now summer here and everything is closed.
It will be on sale on Ali-Express on Black Friday 29/11/19 for 24$ or 21€ !
Bargain of the year! Providing it has new version of the board.
Also seen an Wltoys K989 brushed with Aluminum bottom plate for $39 or €34 including remote
@@olafschermann1592 WLtoys K989 is much faster and better at touring but for drifting and differential compatibility with Mini-Z wise, this is better.
I wanna what is best trq1 or wltoys k989?
Both are great in different ways. If you want drift car TRQ1 is the best (electronics might not last long). If you want grip/touring car for normal driving K989 is the best (but need a fair bit of fixing).
The question is do you want to drift or do you want to drive?
And mini z body shell fir in both shasis?
@@OJ6J Yes, K989 needs 98mm wide body or FWD series with 0mm offset wheels. TRQ7 needs 94mm body but you'll have to mod the magnet mount yourself. I've just answered someone here in the comment section with all the steps to do.
Please add video for mini z body fitting for this please :)
I'm sorry I won't be able to do it because I have glued all my Mini-Z bodies with the side clips and don't want to cut them off. However it's not that hard. Just trim the side clips holder on the body, take the rear plate out from original body, bend it and screw it down to the new body, cut the front off a bit to install Mini-Z front lip and that's it.
@@BeaversHobby does the GTR R33 vspec fits for this? I'm planning to order the GTR R33 vspec for this one :)
@@adrianadrianllibrando4041 Yes, it will. It's exact 94mm wheelbase. R32-35 are all 94mm.
Here's how you fit it.
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41930055&postcount=16
You go full throttle for 30 secs and the esc frys? Ya wonderful toy what quality lol
Hi Can I use a k989 back diff?
Yes. However WLtoys diff has longer drive cups/outdrives so you might have to file them down a bit.
@@BeaversHobby thanks you rock
@@williamtallonneau877 My pleasure.
ตอนนี้ที่ไทยกระแสแรงมากครับ พวกwltoys 1/28 miniQ คันนึงทะลุ 3500 ไปแล้ว ของขาดตลาดมากครับช่วงนี้
แพงงี้สั่งนอกเองเลยครับ
How much U.S. dollars how fast can you put brushless motor in it?
The car is 32.99 USD. You can put a motor in it as fast as you like since you'll have to replace the board with an ESC (stock board doesn't support brushless).
The chassis won't break unless you hit something really hard. Or the motor gets hot enough to melt it.
Can you make more video s like this pls
Absolutely!
What other surfaces can this car drift on.
It'll drift on anything wood, concrete, carpet you name it. Except for the RCP race track. Actually you can but it's not practical and might potentially destroy the surface.
Could you do a demonstration of the car drifting on these different surfaces.loving the reviews by the way a great channel.
@@deandaniels203 I don't have all of that but they are all basic surfaces that all 1/28 drifters commonly play on. The difference is the grip level but then again you can tune it using different tyres.
Does anyone know the song during the drift test?
Slip by Geographer. It's in RUclips audio library.
แบตเตอรี่ใช้เท่าไหร่ครับกี่แอมป์
ผมใช้แบต IKEA 900mAh ครับ
Beaver's Hobby สั่งได้ประมาณกี่วัน แล้วประกอบเองไหมครับ
@@แม๊วเมี๊ยว-ว7ซ แล้วแต่ครับ ของผมประมาณ 14 วันได้ สั่งในไทยน่าจะเร็วกว่า ไม่ต้องประกอบเอง แกะกล่อง ใส่ถ่าน เล่นได้เลย
Beaver's Hobby Tanks you
ใส่แบตลิโพ 2เซล ได้ไหมครับ
ไม่ได้ครับ ไหม้ มีคนลองไปเยอะแล้ว
ปลั้ก ที่จ่ายไฟออกจากบอร์ดที่ว่างอยู่ช่องนึง ชื่อเรียกว่าอะไรครับ จะหาซื้อแต่เรียกไม่ถูก
ปลั๊ก JST-PH 2mm 2pin ครับ มีไฟออก 5V เอาไว้ต่อหลอดไฟได้
Body link Shopee?
I don't know if it's on there either and I couldn't find it.
Can i use Wltoy's dogbone?
Yes and no. If it's original WLtoys dogbone then it's too long. But if you get one from Aliexpress that has different colour like red and and blue on the shaft, those one will work because it's the same length ans Mini-Z AWD.
@@BeaversHobby alright
I see the video and look nice
มัน bind ยังไงครับ ผมทำหลายวันละไม่ได้ซะที กะรีโมตใหญ่ก็ไม่ได้ครับ
ตัวนี้ใช้กับรีโมทใหญ่ไม่ได้นะครับ ใช้ได้เฉพาะกับของมันเองเท่านั้น
วิธีบายคือเปิดรถกับรีโมท ถ้ามันไม่เชื่อมกัน กดปุ่มบายบนรถ แล้วกดปุ่มบายบนรีโมท ไฟจะหยุดกระพริบ ถ้าไฟนิ่งแล้วรถยังไม่ยอมวิ่ง ไม่บอร์ดมีปัญหาก็วิทยุมีปัญหาครับ
@@BeaversHobby รีโมตของมันเองก็ไม่ติดครับ กระพริบรัวไม่หยุด
@@qtreven รถมีปัญหาแล้วล่ะครับ ติดต่อร้านที่ซื้อมาได้เลย
*อยากรู้ราคาจัง*
ตามลิงค์ไปเลยครับ ประมาณ 1200 แล้วแต่ค่าเงิน
Ni-mh batteries
thyristor419 4 cell nimh or 4 rechargeable nimh aaa batteries. Eneloop or ikea rechargeable batteries
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
i just got this car and it doesn't drift.
The new batch has small steering angle and it won't drift unless you extend or replace the servo arm and lift it up to make it fit in the bracket. Either that or replace the whole electronics.
@@BeaversHobby oh that stinks. i have a k969 coming and i think i will just throw the trq1 in the trash. banggood deleted my 1 star review.
@@peacesfgc You can keep it for spares. Wheels, gears, diff are interchangeable.
That's a lame excuse for a 130 motor. My k969 has a real 130 motor and it has alot more power than that. The motor in that is something they toss in a cheap ass tyco. Very sad