Correction: The battery plug is JST-PH 2.0mm. For standard 2S you'll need to convert from JST-XH 2.5mm 3 pins bit.ly/2srcxEF to JST-PH 2.0mm 3 pin goo.gl/69G4zW . Time Stamps Package Pricing and requirements: 0:30 Specs: 1:57 Building Tips: 4:22 Drift & what it feels like: 9:56 Final verdict & conclusion: 11:30
Hello Beaver is it easy to bind a radio link rc6gs with the atomic drz? Planing to buy the version with the electronics! Thank you ver much for all you detailed videos! I really enjoy to follow your projects!
@@SPL3NDiD1 Don't worry about the binding. That's between the radio and the receiver that comes with it and it should be bound already so you can just plug the ESC, and gyro into it. Actually you can use any radio with the car without any problem. You'll need to convert the plugs though because RC6GS has standard size plugs but DRZ full electronics uses micro plugs. Here I have a video about the standard RC electronics and how to connect them together. Although the title is for WLtoys, this type of electronics apples to all RC cars. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby awesome man! I also would like to give you some appreciation on all your work! To me there is no other ytb channel that gets even close with your skill and level of detail! Thank you very much, i started as a noob on this everything that I know now is thanks to you! (Started with a wltoys k989, now I am finally stepping up to higher end chassis)
I am glad your around, I purchased the drzv2, and yeah this hobby is dangerous. The exzacto knife wants to slip..stabbed my self a couple times(jesus does it hurt... your like oh no..is it bad..okay its not bad)..I bought the body I want first, Measured the wheel base then searched for a chassis..i was thinking xrx but hard to get..honda s2000 tamiya and drzv2 fit perf 98mm wheelbase..u can drill tamiya wheels out to fit the drzv2 its 20mm drift
If you watch his older videos you can hear the differences in his tone of voice from then to now. He sounds way better now and has greatly improved on his presentation and information provided.
Got a question for you guys. Been into rc forever. But don't have a dedicated drift car. Is it mainly the tires that turn a regular rwd into a drift car? Any recommendations on a good 1st. drift car. 1:10 and smaller. Thanks
It's the steering angle that makes a RWD drift car. I'd say stick with 1/10 if you have a place to run it. Right now there are many choices especially for 1/10. MST RMX 2.0, Yokomo YD2 and also 3Racing Sakura D5 will be coming out soon. As for 1/28 check out XRX DPA, Atomic DRZ V2 (2nd version of the car in this video, it has better steering and adjustable wheelbase) and GL Racing GLD.
Hi Beaver!! Finally finished mine, great fun building it, thanks again for all the tips! I have a couple of questions, lets see if you can please help me. 1-When i go forward throttle and immediatelly move it fully backwards, the wheels stop but don’t start moving backwards. If i release the trigger and go backwards again it works. Abs is disconnected on the transmitter. Do you know what can it be? 2- i’m new on drifting but, once the rear start sliding I can’t control it and I lose the rear doing a full spin, it’s like the rear is very nervous, I drift on wood floor that is very slippery with the stock tires, I’m using stock setup with gyro at 45% (otherwise the direction starts wobbling) I have even lowered the dual rate at 35% on the motor channel to have it more smooth but once it starts sliding can’t get it back and do a full spin even though I countersteer. Any suggestions on what settings to change or maybe getting tires with more grip?? Would you mind sharing your settings?? Thanks again!!!
Hello there. 1. Don't worry. This is normal. It's the correct settings of ESC. If you go directly from forward to reverse it'll brake or from what you see, the wheels stop. Many people set brake very strong too so when you brake the car lock up the rear wheels making it like pulling the handbrake. 2. Be very gentle with the throttle. You can also try putting some weight on parts of the car too. If it spins out easily you can try weight down the rear. If it doesn't turn in sharp enough, add weight to the front. Also see if when you do full lock the wheels still can spin and they are both touching the ground. Otherwise you'll have to widen the front track by screwing 3 arms out, upper control arm, lower control arm and steering rod. Hope this helps.
Beaver's Hobby thanks a lot for your answers! Front wheels turn freely when fully turned. Will try playing with some weight, the rear axle is wider than the front one and it has a bit of negative camber. Will try to widen the front axle too. I think that the main problem it’s also a lack of practice, specially throttle control, I either put very little so the rear doesn’t slide or too much and I lose control and do a 180º spin. Do you think that decreasing the camber on rear wheels will make things better? Thanks again!!
Finally got mine and built it. Having a bit of a problem though, hoping you could help me out. When I turn the steering wheel to the left the left wheel lifts off the ground, turning to the right is alright. Steering linkages are on default adjustments and I have cut off excess material on the steering sliding block to avoid it from hitting the wheel hub on max turn.
Turn the EPA on the transmitter down so it won't go so far that lift up the wheel. If you can't turn left and right equally then experiment with the linkages length until you got it turning the way you want. Maybe you'll have to extend the track width and steering linkage on one side so it can fully turn.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the reply man! Found another solution. Ended up removing the spacer on the front suspensions because I noticed that the springs on the front left was a bit stiffer. I think I stretched it out a bit during assembly. All the tires stays on the ground now even when I do a full turn. I guess it's just a matter of practice from here. Is it normal to have to counter steer on the transmitter to get the car to drift even if I have a gyro built in on my receiver unit?
@@BeaversHobby I see. Update, had to put the spacers back because I noticed that when I put the body on, the front wheels were actually rubbing against the fender. Ended up turning down the EPA to 90%. Works alright for now. Thanks again!
Locked is easier to drive in most of the cars. All the cars you mentioned are better with locked or very tight diff. There are very few occurrences like HGD1 that needs open diff to be able to control the car.
Is it advisable to run grip tires on rwd drift cars like the DRZ? Except the hgd1, the front suspension arms all seem to be more fragile because of the need to maximize steering angle. Does that mean they will likely break more easily in a crash? I'm wondering if there's a rwd chassis sufficiently good at both drifting and touring.
No, its not advisable. As you suspect the front is much slimmer and much more fragile in crashes. Also touring car won't utilize such steering angle. You you look for a budget RWD touring I highly recommend Atomic AMR which is the touring version of DRZ. If you want one car that can do both RWD touring and drifting, HGD1 is your best bet. Just swap the servo horn to a much shorter one in touring mode so you won't have excessive steering angle too.
From what I got they are between LF1 and LF3, quite fast but not that fast. The control is really good with the stock tyres as well. However mine was 1st batch and came with front rounded and I don't know if they still give you that. Anyway, the Atomic flat tyres are also good.
Hello Beaver, I have been tinkering a lot with my car. The rear of the car felt too solid as it keeps spinning out. Only with very minimal throttle than it is more controllable. (5500kv with 20% Throttle Trim). I think it has something to do with the ride height? How do I adjust the front and rear height? Right now the front is higher. I am using LF-4 Narrow on front and rear. Default settings on DRZ does not work for me.
My setup for DS tyres are 7 degrees caster (the original was too much), 2 degrees camber and extend the front width as much as possible. Then adjust the downstopper until the wheels won't lift when turning.
What servo do you use, and fits? And will it work with the amz and drz v2. And if you know a micro receiver that works with the flysky gt5, please help me out. Just brought drz v2
AMZ and DRZ support 5g servo. You can use this and it's a shorten 5g so you'll have a bit more room on the chassis. bit.ly/2TZKav3 DRZ V2 also supports A11CLS series which is one of the best servos for 1/28. bit.ly/2keuZfT
While I'm aware this chassis is now outdated and there are much higher performance options, would this still be a good choice for a casual, non-competitive drifter?
The V1 is probably not available anymore but yes, it's still a decent drifter comparing to the current generation. You can get the DRZ V2 at roughly the same price and it's readily available.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the quick reply. I've managed to find both available local to me and you're right, similar price and I know v2 is better but I really like the look of the v1- silly, I know. Which is easier to build?
Mainly the front, DRZ has different front end, suspension and steering system. The wheelbase is also down to 94mm. DRZ is old now, get the DRZ V2, it's a much better car than this and it has adjustable wheelbase 90-98mm out of the box.
I was looking to buy the kyosho mini-z awd as they didn't have a rwd drift car (their rwd is a race car). How does this compare to the kyosho awd mini-z?
This is in a different league. RWD is much more satisfying to drive and it looks like a real car doing so. Still, even for AWD drifting there're better choices than Mini-Z such as Mini-Q Q7 and Atomic AMZ.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the prompt reply. I have checked the q7 as well. If rwd drifting looks more real I'll probably go for drz as I have always wanted to get a rwd
@@BeaversHobby would this body fit the atomic drz? www.ebay.com.au/itm/KYOSHO-MINI-Z-Autoscale-HONDA-NSX-R-2002-White-MR-015-02-MR-03-N-RM-ASC-MZP132W-/253568900104?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0
Took a while but I tested them if they would fit. The original servo from Atomic www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1165&products_id=14225 AFRC D1802 plastic gear version (the metal gear version doesn't fit) bit.ly/38sCLr2 WLtoys metal gear servo (not sure about the new batch though) bit.ly/3k0CrWb
8mm, the standard Mini-Z AWD. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1039&products_id=13044 They should be in the box. Contact the shop and Atomic immediately. facebook.com/atomicrc/
Banzaihobby.com the cheapest source for Mini-Z parts. Check if they can send you the order by Airmail before buying because it's closed in some countries.
I decided to take the plunge and get this chassis for a drift build. I got the no electric kit since the other wasn't in stock at the time.....go figure I get it today and now the electronics version is back in stock. Anyway, I was wondering about the servo, I know it's a nano servo, but I was wondering the spline count? Is it a 20T or 25T fitting?
I understand the build will be challenging (as with usual atomic kit), but from the level of "a bit annoying" to "hell", how will you describe the build？ Thanks.
It was like slowly sinking in to hell every minute in to the build. Parts rarely fit together properly. Almost none of the screw threads on plastic part line up with chassis.
XRX DPA is also a very good car. It came out not long ago. HGD1 is essentially Q5 RWD mod but I saw some videos and it looks good too. This one has adjustable wheelbase out of the box so you can make it something between 90mm short wheelbase to like a bus.
@@_Slushy_ Any Kyosho Mini-Z distributor will have compatible body and wheels. you'll need AWD wheels to go with the body. Here's the list for the bodies and offsets including the modification if needed. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY
All the plugs you need. Battery Plug (battery side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6 Battery Plug (ESC side) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW Receiver Plug (convert receiver) JST-XH 1.5: goo.gl/Mhy8pV Receiver Plug 2 (in case you have to makae adapter) : bit.ly/3aV9VQU
@@art42000 In my last video, front narrow (8.5mm) with 1mm offset, rear wide (11mm) with 1mm offset. The wheels are from RC Aurora. Tyres are DS Racing. ps. I really need to do an update video on that. Well, HGD1 review comes first then I'll get a chance to get back to DRZ.
Hey man 👍 I'm looking to order those parts you used to make the adapter for the battery, I've clicked on one of the links in the description and it came up with jst zh 1.5mm 3 pins just fine then I clicked on the jst xh 2.0mm 3 pins and it came up with jst ph 2.0mm 3 pins....... could you please check the link to make sure it's the right part for me as I've got a drz just no battery adapter ☹ thanks dude 👍
Sorry for the confusion. The links are correct, what I said in the video wasn't. For the battery plug you need to convert from JST-XH 2.5mm 3 pins bit.ly/2srcxEF to JST-PH 2.0mm 3 pin goo.gl/69G4zW .
For drifting Mini-Q Q7 or Atomic AMZ are better choices because of higher possible steering angle and modability. But for full package in one purchase (minus bearing) Mini-Z is the only one that can do it.
Genuine Mini-Z from Kyosho: Mini-Z RWD MR-03 RTR. I've seen the cheapest at around 139 USD. It can't drift though. For other 1/28 the cheapest is WLtoys K989 or 284131. It goes for around 50-60 USD. This one is AWD so it can do both touring and drifting.
Futaba and Sanwa have micro receivers. This one works with 4PX, 7PX, 4PV, 3PV pretty much all S-FHSS. bit.ly/2Z1WmIF As for sanwa you can look at MT4 , MT4S, MT-S, M11X, M12, M12S to use with this receiver. bit.ly/2YGFXOu
Wheel offset also depends on the body you choose. But my suggestion is 1mm to 1.5mm offset narrow wheels. I recommend original Mini-Z wheels, Atomic, RC Aurora, GL-Racing GLA and PN racing. These wheels are great.
Unfortunately, no. HGD1 is essentially Mini-Q Q5OP with steering mod so I guess it'd work quite well. I probably won't buy it either because it's too expensive and customs will eat me alive with import tax.
I bought this kit mainly based on your videos, i regret it, not one single hole was tapped, parts missing, instructions are just pictures and sometimes screws just appear without labeling what screw size. Ive been out rc for decades now, and if this is the quality that hobbiest accept now, count me out.
I'm so sorry to hear that. I don't know what to say about this. I've heard the quality has gone down but I didn't expect it to be this bad. I haven't looked at the manual for a while now so I don't remember much. Is there anything I can help?
@@BeaversHobby keep me enthused about the drz, i really think the design is good, and i would rather be enjoying it than complaining. Can linkage balls be be bought in bags of say 10 to 20, are they universal? Im 90 percent complete and ive got just two 4mm linake balls to put in but im missing one and the other will not thread in either hole. Im also looking for wheels/tires as wide and tall as i can for the rear end. I plan on simulating dirt oval racing but on track made of sheet metal.
@@christopherbrown6152 The ball heads are not the same throughout the car and screw length might be different than other stuffs in the market. There might be come compatibility like I use 4mm ball from Eflite helicopter but it's all a gamble. You can get a set of 12 4mm balls like this. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=12196 Or get a set of all ball heads for DRZ. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1165&products_id=14191 The bigger wheels are 22mm with 27mm tyres and you can find them on Aliexpress. Here's one. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000292191595.html They are only a tad bigger than standard wheels from overall 24.5-25mm to 27mm.
@@BeaversHobby thanks i ordered the whole set of screws, and started to wonder and pretty soon i had the metal motor mount and flywheel and the super skeeter kit in the cart. Thanks for the help !
@@christopherbrown6152 My pleasure. Good luck with the project. Assembling SuperSkeeter requires some guesswork since from what I know it doesn't include a manual. Anyway, you can see some photos to build it.
Hello Beaver, thanks so much for Your great videos! I'm almost new to mini Drift cars and learned a lot from You. Now I'm looking for a real RWD Chassis and found the new DRZ3 MP and MS Are You planning to review this cars? Best, Markus aka GeckoRC
Awesome little car. Really like the extreme steering angle you can get with these cars. Really like the body too. Could you make a video how you made those anime decals you have on this one and the Toyota AE86? Or is that a silly question and did you buy them somewhere?
Decal design video is in the pipeline. It'll come after some updates of WLtoys 1/28 RWD mod. Basically you print it to transparent sticker and apply it to the car. That's why my car with these stickers are always white.
At this moment, XRX DPA. godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=152 I haven't got it yet so the best car I have (2nd best overall) is HGD1.
@@BeaversHobby thats ace news thankyou! If you was to make a permanent drift track what base/material would you go for? I mentioned to BMR using a very large board hinged to a wall to fold up when out of use!
@@efaracing4000 From what I talked to people with drift track they use the back of vinyl because it's the slippery side. Or a smooth wood surface is also good for drifting.
Yes, Mini-Z has RWD but it's for grip racing. This is one and only dedicated chassis for RWD drifting so the steering angle is much, much more. It has other adjustability that Mini-Z doesn't have like caster. You can watch my Mini-Z RWD here to see more ruclips.net/video/ht69BmKDUlc/видео.html
Unfortunately Mini-Z MA-030 can only drift when it's AWD and the RWD series can't drift unless we 3D print the whole new chassis to have more steering angle.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for your response. I've seen a video on here where someone basically reproduced a new chassis system for MR-02 with a 3d printer. Wish mini-z comes up with an RWD chassis that can drift. It just bothers me that I use a body that is a RWD in real life with all wheels turning. I was wondering if it had to do with the steering angle but thanks for confirming it!
Here you go Wheels are standard wheels from Mini-Z: what I end up using is offset 1.5 banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDH100W-N15 You can use other brands too, the other one I use is RC-Aurora offset 1: ppm-rcracing.com/products/Mini%252dZ-AWD-Rim-Front-1%C2%B0-%28Gray%29.html Tyres are included with the car. For spares front: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1165&products_id=14204 Rear (narrow as standard): www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1023&products_id=945 Rear wide if you have different wheels: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1023&products_id=946 I also recommend Mini-Z tyres banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDT001 and banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDT002 If you want something fancy go to DS Racing page here facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ and ask for LF1 for sharp control and LF3 or LF4 if you want to play on hi-grip surface such as carpet.
Great videos! I just bought the DRZ after watching your video and was wondering if it's compatible with all Kyosho parts, specifically the Kyosho rear solid axle (#MDW024).
Unfortunately, no. Differential is not the same. It's from Atomic AMR. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1039&products_id=13026 Or just lock the stock diff, It'll be the same as solid axle. This car is only compatible with Mini-Z wheel, tyre, swing shaft and body. And radio if you have ASF radio and use DasMikro ASF receiver.
Well I never have a micro RS4 but principle should be the same. Use plastic drift tires, lock the diff or use solid axle/spool. When drifting, swing the car in while give the throttle then let it slide and adjust the steering accordingly to guide the car where you want. Let go the throttle and turn the other way to do transition or switch to another side. Sorry, I'm bad at teaching people how to drift.
Yes, it's still worth the price (albeit 3 times the price) because it has 94mm chassis plate VS 98mm of AMR making it a more agile, the front steering which requires different chassis holes so if you get AMR you'll have to drill them yourself. Also front steering assembly are the mix of parts from BZ and new parts. Modifying these yourself is a big hassle.
@@BeaversHobby mine seems to have only forward and brake only. I did the throttle calibration a few times already. Maybe I need the programming card to make it work. What a shame. Thanks for your reply.
@@phailstig You'll have to wait a bit to go in to reverse. However it also depends on your transmitter. Some doesn't have good centering and won't work well with this ESC. I don't remember if you can set neutral range but this is hobbywing so I think you can with the programming card.
They are standard Mini-Z AWD wheels. I got them from Banzaihobby.com The ones I have in this video are 1.5 offset banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDH100W-N15 . They're out of stock at the moment though.
@@BeaversHobby you can also find a good selection here, they have only 0, 1, 2 and 3 offset but they are very good. ppm-rcracing.com/categories/RC%252dAurora-racing/Rims/
Do you have gyro? Does the gyro work correctly? When you swing the car it should counter steer. Check if the wheels hit shock absorber in full lock because that causes spinning too. Also don't apply too much throttle. Try to drive slowly and see if the car works correctly first. Also check the wheels tightness. Front wheels should spin freely.
Come to think of it, yes, there aren't many offerings for 1/28 offroad. So far we have Mini-Z Overland and WLtoys P929 & P939 and that's it. Others micros are 1/24 and 1/32. Some more in 1/28 would be nice.
![[Review] HGD1 1/28 RWD Drift Car | Build & Setup](/img/1.gif)
Correction: The battery plug is JST-PH 2.0mm. For standard 2S you'll need to convert from JST-XH 2.5mm 3 pins bit.ly/2srcxEF to JST-PH 2.0mm 3 pin goo.gl/69G4zW .
Time Stamps
Package Pricing and requirements: 0:30
Specs: 1:57
Building Tips: 4:22
Drift & what it feels like: 9:56
Final verdict & conclusion: 11:30
Hello Beaver is it easy to bind a radio link rc6gs with the atomic drz? Planing to buy the version with the electronics! Thank you ver much for all you detailed videos! I really enjoy to follow your projects!
@@SPL3NDiD1 Don't worry about the binding. That's between the radio and the receiver that comes with it and it should be bound already so you can just plug the ESC, and gyro into it. Actually you can use any radio with the car without any problem. You'll need to convert the plugs though because RC6GS has standard size plugs but DRZ full electronics uses micro plugs.
Here I have a video about the standard RC electronics and how to connect them together. Although the title is for WLtoys, this type of electronics apples to all RC cars. ruclips.net/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby awesome man! I also would like to give you some appreciation on all your work! To me there is no other ytb channel that gets even close with your skill and level of detail! Thank you very much, i started as a noob on this everything that I know now is thanks to you! (Started with a wltoys k989, now I am finally stepping up to higher end chassis)
@@SPL3NDiD1 My pleasure. Best of luck with the project! By the way, get DRZ V2, not the 1st version. The V2 is a much better car.
@@BeaversHobby yeah That one is what I got on my shopping cart right now! :)
I am glad your around, I purchased the drzv2, and yeah this hobby is dangerous. The exzacto knife wants to slip..stabbed my self a couple times(jesus does it hurt... your like oh no..is it bad..okay its not bad)..I bought the body I want first, Measured the wheel base then searched for a chassis..i was thinking xrx but hard to get..honda s2000 tamiya and drzv2 fit perf 98mm wheelbase..u can drill tamiya wheels out to fit the drzv2 its 20mm drift
your videos are very nice, don´t get bothered by people that don´t like your accent your video´s are the best!
Accent make the videos
If you watch his older videos you can hear the differences in his tone of voice from then to now. He sounds way better now and has greatly improved on his presentation and information provided.
I dont mind the accent, but his English is amazing.
I find myself watching these just for the commentary he is a great man in our hobby
You have an Olfa blade holder!
I have never seen another of them in all my years!
They're darn good quality.
awesome! I enjoy your videos, very informative and fun to watch. looking forward to the next one
It comes as a kit or you can have someone build it for you ("you do you") 🤣 this guy 🤣 great video beaver
Great video, this makes me want a DRZ but I hate lipo batteries. You got me torn lol!!
You do wonderful reviews,....thank you.
Got a question for you guys. Been into rc forever. But don't have a dedicated drift car. Is it mainly the tires that turn a regular rwd into a drift car? Any recommendations on a good 1st. drift car. 1:10 and smaller. Thanks
It's the steering angle that makes a RWD drift car. I'd say stick with 1/10 if you have a place to run it. Right now there are many choices especially for 1/10. MST RMX 2.0, Yokomo YD2 and also 3Racing Sakura D5 will be coming out soon.
As for 1/28 check out XRX DPA, Atomic DRZ V2 (2nd version of the car in this video, it has better steering and adjustable wheelbase) and GL Racing GLD.
Hi Beaver!! Finally finished mine, great fun building it, thanks again for all the tips!
I have a couple of questions, lets see if you can please help me.
1-When i go forward throttle and immediatelly move it fully backwards, the wheels stop but don’t start moving backwards. If i release the trigger and go backwards again it works. Abs is disconnected on the transmitter. Do you know what can it be?
2- i’m new on drifting but, once the rear start sliding I can’t control it and I lose the rear doing a full spin, it’s like the rear is very nervous, I drift on wood floor that is very slippery with the stock tires, I’m using stock setup with gyro at 45% (otherwise the direction starts wobbling) I have even lowered the dual rate at 35% on the motor channel to have it more smooth but once it starts sliding can’t get it back and do a full spin even though I countersteer. Any suggestions on what settings to change or maybe getting tires with more grip??
Would you mind sharing your settings??
Thanks again!!!
Hello there.
1. Don't worry. This is normal. It's the correct settings of ESC. If you go directly from forward to reverse it'll brake or from what you see, the wheels stop. Many people set brake very strong too so when you brake the car lock up the rear wheels making it like pulling the handbrake.
2. Be very gentle with the throttle. You can also try putting some weight on parts of the car too. If it spins out easily you can try weight down the rear. If it doesn't turn in sharp enough, add weight to the front. Also see if when you do full lock the wheels still can spin and they are both touching the ground. Otherwise you'll have to widen the front track by screwing 3 arms out, upper control arm, lower control arm and steering rod.
Hope this helps.
Beaver's Hobby thanks a lot for your answers!
Front wheels turn freely when fully turned. Will try playing with some weight, the rear axle is wider than the front one and it has a bit of negative camber. Will try to widen the front axle too.
I think that the main problem it’s also a lack of practice, specially throttle control, I either put very little so the rear doesn’t slide or too much and I lose control and do a 180º spin.
Do you think that decreasing the camber on rear wheels will make things better?
Thanks again!!
@@Alvaropiloto Yes, decreasing rear camber will help gaining more traction if only the small part of inside rear tyres are touching the ground.
Beaver's Hobby yeah, that’s the case, will try to reduce a bit of camber too and keep trying to get more practice. Thanks again!
@@Alvaropiloto No problem. Try the suspension settings first before moving to weight.
That ball stud no screw thingy happened to my AMR too. I just glued it in.
Good thinking!
If they had paid attention to manufacturing & QC as much as the designing, they would have been the best in business.
Finally got mine and built it. Having a bit of a problem though, hoping you could help me out. When I turn the steering wheel to the left the left wheel lifts off the ground, turning to the right is alright. Steering linkages are on default adjustments and I have cut off excess material on the steering sliding block to avoid it from hitting the wheel hub on max turn.
Turn the EPA on the transmitter down so it won't go so far that lift up the wheel. If you can't turn left and right equally then experiment with the linkages length until you got it turning the way you want. Maybe you'll have to extend the track width and steering linkage on one side so it can fully turn.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the reply man! Found another solution. Ended up removing the spacer on the front suspensions because I noticed that the springs on the front left was a bit stiffer. I think I stretched it out a bit during assembly. All the tires stays on the ground now even when I do a full turn. I guess it's just a matter of practice from here. Is it normal to have to counter steer on the transmitter to get the car to drift even if I have a gyro built in on my receiver unit?
@@ralphd204 Yes, you will still do some counter steer to guide the carnto where you want.
@@BeaversHobby I see. Update, had to put the spacers back because I noticed that when I put the body on, the front wheels were actually rubbing against the fender. Ended up turning down the EPA to 90%. Works alright for now. Thanks again!
@@ralphd204 good that you came up with this question. I was wondering too.
Hi, thanks a lot for you channel RUclips.
Please, for a drift with rwd (drz, gld, da3s), the diff is locked or not ? Better locked, no ? Thanks again.
Locked is easier to drive in most of the cars. All the cars you mentioned are better with locked or very tight diff.
There are very few occurrences like HGD1 that needs open diff to be able to control the car.
Is it advisable to run grip tires on rwd drift cars like the DRZ? Except the hgd1, the front suspension arms all seem to be more fragile because of the need to maximize steering angle. Does that mean they will likely break more easily in a crash? I'm wondering if there's a rwd chassis sufficiently good at both drifting and touring.
No, its not advisable. As you suspect the front is much slimmer and much more fragile in crashes. Also touring car won't utilize such steering angle. You you look for a budget RWD touring I highly recommend Atomic AMR which is the touring version of DRZ. If you want one car that can do both RWD touring and drifting, HGD1 is your best bet. Just swap the servo horn to a much shorter one in touring mode so you won't have excessive steering angle too.
@@BeaversHobby Appreciate the confirmation. It's hard to justify the price of hgd1 when the new cars like GLD and DRZv2 are rolling out.
@@sammybaka My pleasure.
how does the drz stock tire compare to DS racing? and are they equivalent to LF-3?
From what I got they are between LF1 and LF3, quite fast but not that fast. The control is really good with the stock tyres as well. However mine was 1st batch and came with front rounded and I don't know if they still give you that. Anyway, the Atomic flat tyres are also good.
Like your reviews! Very good and helpful. Thanks dear friend you are great. Keep walking! We like you !!!
Hey I just started getting into mini z and rc drifting and was wondering if you would recommend the hgd1 vs the atomic drz
DRZ v2. It just came out and it's a big improvement over the first one.
Damn i really want to drift my car but receiver broke and I’m waiting for Xmas to get the upgraded receiver and esc
hi beaver! this is my favorite youtube channel! thank you for the videos!! have you tried the XRX-DPA drift chassis?
Not yet. I plan to get one eventually though.
@@BeaversHobby cool! the bmr-x also looks nice with all the upgraded parts already included
@@hehecheesy It's super expensive. It's 300+ USD which is the same price as a hi-end 1/10 car even before shipping and tax.
Hello Beaver, I have been tinkering a lot with my car. The rear of the car felt too solid as it keeps spinning out. Only with very minimal throttle than it is more controllable. (5500kv with 20% Throttle Trim). I think it has something to do with the ride height? How do I adjust the front and rear height? Right now the front is higher. I am using LF-4 Narrow on front and rear. Default settings on DRZ does not work for me.
My setup for DS tyres are 7 degrees caster (the original was too much), 2 degrees camber and extend the front width as much as possible. Then adjust the downstopper until the wheels won't lift when turning.
Beaver's Hobby I will give this a shot! Thank you Beaver. Though I don’t quite get the caster part. Is it the rear?
@@dhaninputra I meant the front caster angle. You can check the manual to see how to arrange the shims and arm orientation to get the angle you want.
What servo do you use, and fits? And will it work with the amz and drz v2. And if you know a micro receiver that works with the flysky gt5, please help me out. Just brought drz v2
AMZ and DRZ support 5g servo. You can use this and it's a shorten 5g so you'll have a bit more room on the chassis. bit.ly/2TZKav3
DRZ V2 also supports A11CLS series which is one of the best servos for 1/28. bit.ly/2keuZfT
While I'm aware this chassis is now outdated and there are much higher performance options, would this still be a good choice for a casual, non-competitive drifter?
The V1 is probably not available anymore but yes, it's still a decent drifter comparing to the current generation. You can get the DRZ V2 at roughly the same price and it's readily available.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the quick reply. I've managed to find both available local to me and you're right, similar price and I know v2 is better but I really like the look of the v1- silly, I know.
Which is easier to build?
@@calebdelfs1491 V2 steering system is easier to build. The rear is the same.
Hi may i know what's the different between atomic amr rwd?
Mainly the front, DRZ has different front end, suspension and steering system. The wheelbase is also down to 94mm. DRZ is old now, get the DRZ V2, it's a much better car than this and it has adjustable wheelbase 90-98mm out of the box.
I was looking to buy the kyosho mini-z awd as they didn't have a rwd drift car (their rwd is a race car). How does this compare to the kyosho awd mini-z?
This is in a different league. RWD is much more satisfying to drive and it looks like a real car doing so. Still, even for AWD drifting there're better choices than Mini-Z such as Mini-Q Q7 and Atomic AMZ.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the prompt reply. I have checked the q7 as well. If rwd drifting looks more real I'll probably go for drz as I have always wanted to get a rwd
@@BeaversHobby would this body fit the atomic drz? www.ebay.com.au/itm/KYOSHO-MINI-Z-Autoscale-HONDA-NSX-R-2002-White-MR-015-02-MR-03-N-RM-ASC-MZP132W-/253568900104?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0
Can you link me a servo that fits with the drz1 esc and servo horn?
Took a while but I tested them if they would fit.
The original servo from Atomic www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1165&products_id=14225
AFRC D1802 plastic gear version (the metal gear version doesn't fit) bit.ly/38sCLr2
WLtoys metal gear servo (not sure about the new batch though) bit.ly/3k0CrWb
@@BeaversHobby thank you so much, I started losing it after ordering 2 servos and then not fitting. Thanks for always helping, you are a life saver. 🙏
@@needtau4138 Always a pleasure.
I was wondering if you could slap on a Yokomo V4 gyro
Yes, you need to be a bit inventive with the space management under the body but 1/10 gyro also fits.
Beaver's Hobby Ah I see. From the looks of it, it does look rather tight
@@tommykhong6148 Here's how a 1/10 gyro fit on it. I used pretty small ESC though. ruclips.net/video/_-tGbCGEppA/видео.html
your smart with this I wish I had a friend like this to help me out
You can always post the questions. I'm here to help although I can't be there in person.
Is it possible to slap the drz front end on the wltoys k989?
Possible with a bit of cutting and drilling. You need to measure it very accurately though.
Beaver's Hobby ok thanks
What size drive shafts do I need because my drz came with no driveshafts? Thanks in advance
8mm, the standard Mini-Z AWD. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1039&products_id=13044
They should be in the box. Contact the shop and Atomic immediately. facebook.com/atomicrc/
hi nice RC car, where did you buy your gtr 33 body? thanks!
Banzaihobby.com the cheapest source for Mini-Z parts. Check if they can send you the order by Airmail before buying because it's closed in some countries.
I decided to take the plunge and get this chassis for a drift build. I got the no electric kit since the other wasn't in stock at the time.....go figure I get it today and now the electronics version is back in stock. Anyway, I was wondering about the servo, I know it's a nano servo, but I was wondering the spline count? Is it a 20T or 25T fitting?
Servo is 25T. It's a bit hard to count but it's more than 20 for sure.
Thanks for the quick reply and much appreciated.
I understand the build will be challenging (as with usual atomic kit), but from the level of "a bit annoying" to "hell", how will you describe the build？ Thanks.
It was like slowly sinking in to hell every minute in to the build. Parts rarely fit together properly. Almost none of the screw threads on plastic part line up with chassis.
Nice review bro. I think you need more toe out in the front. It will make your car easier to drift.
Indeed! Increasing toe is very common for any chassis so I left it out. Maybe that was a mistake.
What other RWD rc drift cars that is 1/28 1/27 1/24 sized do you recommend other than the DRZ?
XRX DPA is also a very good car. It came out not long ago.
HGD1 is essentially Q5 RWD mod but I saw some videos and it looks good too. This one has adjustable wheelbase out of the box so you can make it something between 90mm short wheelbase to like a bus.
@@BeaversHobby Nice
Enjoy your video and review is really helpful.BTW, your accent is cute
Hi man… the body on this video its compatible on wltoys k969??
Unfortunately, no. This is 94mm wheelbase narrow chassis. Wltoys is 98mm wheelbase wide chassis.
@@BeaversHobby Ah ok thanks a lot... were I can search body for wltoys??? The stock body its horrible for me :)
@@_Slushy_ Any Kyosho Mini-Z distributor will have compatible body and wheels. you'll need AWD wheels to go with the body. Here's the list for the bodies and offsets including the modification if needed. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY
@@BeaversHobby Perfect!!! Thanks a lot man :)
@@_Slushy_ My pleasure.
Hi i cant find the jst xh 2.0 plug, to make the battery adapter, do you have any links thanks
All the plugs you need.
Battery Plug (battery side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6
Battery Plug (ESC side) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW
Receiver Plug (convert receiver) JST-XH 1.5: goo.gl/Mhy8pV
Receiver Plug 2 (in case you have to makae adapter) : bit.ly/3aV9VQU
@@BeaversHobby Ah its ph, thanks!
@@art42000 I just saw the correction post that says I got wrong info in the video, it's not XH 2.0 it's PH 2.0 wasn't pinned. Now it is.
@@BeaversHobby What wheel offset and width do you run on the drz?
@@art42000 In my last video, front narrow (8.5mm) with 1mm offset, rear wide (11mm) with 1mm offset. The wheels are from RC Aurora. Tyres are DS Racing.
ps. I really need to do an update video on that. Well, HGD1 review comes first then I'll get a chance to get back to DRZ.
Hey man 👍 I'm looking to order those parts you used to make the adapter for the battery, I've clicked on one of the links in the description and it came up with jst zh 1.5mm 3 pins just fine then I clicked on the jst xh 2.0mm 3 pins and it came up with jst ph 2.0mm 3 pins....... could you please check the link to make sure it's the right part for me as I've got a drz just no battery adapter ☹ thanks dude 👍
Sorry for the confusion.
The links are correct, what I said in the video wasn't. For the battery plug you need to convert from JST-XH 2.5mm 3 pins bit.ly/2srcxEF to JST-PH 2.0mm 3 pin goo.gl/69G4zW .
@@BeaversHobby thank you for your reply👍I'll order them through the links given😊
Im saving up for a awd mini z i had an xmod bought but servo isnt good so im wanting to get a sil80
For drifting Mini-Q Q7 or Atomic AMZ are better choices because of higher possible steering angle and modability. But for full package in one purchase (minus bearing) Mini-Z is the only one that can do it.
Do you have jitter from the atomic gyro?
Sometimes, yes. It depends on wheels, tyres and floor combination however it doesn't shake violently, just slow oscillation.
@@BeaversHobby seem mine jitter when it go straight but stop when start drifting.
@@pejalai I think it's from the vibration.
What is the price of the cheapest Mini Z RC car?
Genuine Mini-Z from Kyosho: Mini-Z RWD MR-03 RTR. I've seen the cheapest at around 139 USD. It can't drift though.
For other 1/28 the cheapest is WLtoys K989 or 284131. It goes for around 50-60 USD. This one is AWD so it can do both touring and drifting.
@@BeaversHobby Try please to make one as fast as possible to see how fast it can go.
@@onlinehelper374 I've got nowhere flat enough to run it. Here's the speedtest on a dyno. ruclips.net/video/0LW9auEzYVM/видео.html
Can anyone advise me of a good radio to get. I've been looking at the dx5c but I cant seem to find any ultra micro recievers for them thanks
Futaba and Sanwa have micro receivers.
This one works with 4PX, 7PX, 4PV, 3PV pretty much all S-FHSS. bit.ly/2Z1WmIF
As for sanwa you can look at MT4
, MT4S, MT-S, M11X, M12, M12S to use with this receiver. bit.ly/2YGFXOu
!! what the best Offset for front and rear wheel plz ?
Wheel offset also depends on the body you choose. But my suggestion is 1mm to 1.5mm offset narrow wheels. I recommend original Mini-Z wheels, Atomic, RC Aurora, GL-Racing GLA and PN racing. These wheels are great.
A lot of fun for a little car
Does your drz have any front negative toe?
Yes, about 1-2 degree.
@@BeaversHobby thank you, how to I get more toe? I can't tighten my steering rods any further.
@@needtau4138 You can file the end of the ball caps out to make them shorter and you can screw them in more.
@@BeaversHobby awesome thank you
Have you tried the hgd1? Im wondering how the two chassis stack up
Unfortunately, no. HGD1 is essentially Mini-Q Q5OP with steering mod so I guess it'd work quite well. I probably won't buy it either because it's too expensive and customs will eat me alive with import tax.
Where did you get your Silvia body !
That's Skyline R33 from Mini-Z. I got if from Banzaihobby. banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MZN182
@@BeaversHobby thank you !
รุ่นamrพอจะทำแบบนี้ได้ไหมครับ
พอได้ครับ ก่อนมาเป็น DRZ ก็มีคนเอา AMR นี่ล่ะมาโม
ขอบคุณครับ
I bought this kit mainly based on your videos, i regret it, not one single hole was tapped, parts missing, instructions are just pictures and sometimes screws just appear without labeling what screw size. Ive been out rc for decades now, and if this is the quality that hobbiest accept now, count me out.
I'm so sorry to hear that. I don't know what to say about this. I've heard the quality has gone down but I didn't expect it to be this bad.
I haven't looked at the manual for a while now so I don't remember much. Is there anything I can help?
@@BeaversHobby keep me enthused about the drz, i really think the design is good, and i would rather be enjoying it than complaining. Can linkage balls be be bought in bags of say 10 to 20, are they universal? Im 90 percent complete and ive got just two 4mm linake balls to put in but im missing one and the other will not thread in either hole. Im also looking for wheels/tires as wide and tall as i can for the rear end. I plan on simulating dirt oval racing but on track made of sheet metal.
@@christopherbrown6152 The ball heads are not the same throughout the car and screw length might be different than other stuffs in the market. There might be come compatibility like I use 4mm ball from Eflite helicopter but it's all a gamble.
You can get a set of 12 4mm balls like this. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=12196
Or get a set of all ball heads for DRZ. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1165&products_id=14191
The bigger wheels are 22mm with 27mm tyres and you can find them on Aliexpress. Here's one. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000292191595.html
They are only a tad bigger than standard wheels from overall 24.5-25mm to 27mm.
@@BeaversHobby thanks i ordered the whole set of screws, and started to wonder and pretty soon i had the metal motor mount and flywheel and the super skeeter kit in the cart. Thanks for the help !
@@christopherbrown6152 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Assembling SuperSkeeter requires some guesswork since from what I know it doesn't include a manual. Anyway, you can see some photos to build it.
Your accent is great. Makes my day.
Hello Beaver, thanks so much for Your great videos!
I'm almost new to mini Drift cars and learned a lot from You.
Now I'm looking for a real RWD Chassis and found the new DRZ3 MP and MS
Are You planning to review this cars?
Best, Markus aka GeckoRC
I haven't got any plan for those yet but as far as I know they are both really good. DRZ3 is a big step over the V2 in general.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks my friend!
Awesome little car. Really like the extreme steering angle you can get with these cars. Really like the body too. Could you make a video how you made those anime decals you have on this one and the Toyota AE86? Or is that a silly question and did you buy them somewhere?
Decal design video is in the pipeline. It'll come after some updates of WLtoys 1/28 RWD mod.
Basically you print it to transparent sticker and apply it to the car. That's why my car with these stickers are always white.
So Witch is best RWD Drift chassis do you think ?
At this moment, XRX DPA. godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=152
I haven't got it yet so the best car I have (2nd best overall) is HGD1.
What bolts did you use for the rims
Bolts are from the CVD and wheel shaft.
Lock nuts are M2 flanged.
Yoo beaver another great video! I know its a year old but could i use kyosho 432pt with receiver on these?/ v2 as im probly going that route now😂
Yes, you can switch the 432PT to FHS mode (for Mini-Z Sports) then use Flysky GR3E receiver to use with standard RC system.
@@BeaversHobby thats ace news thankyou!
If you was to make a permanent drift track what base/material would you go for? I mentioned to BMR using a very large board hinged to a wall to fold up when out of use!
@@efaracing4000 From what I talked to people with drift track they use the back of vinyl because it's the slippery side. Or a smooth wood surface is also good for drifting.
@@BeaversHobby that was my thinking! Thanks for the reply much appreciated!
@@efaracing4000 My pleasure.
I'm new to this. Does mini z got a RWD too? How's that compare to this?
Yes, Mini-Z has RWD but it's for grip racing. This is one and only dedicated chassis for RWD drifting so the steering angle is much, much more. It has other adjustability that Mini-Z doesn't have like caster.
You can watch my Mini-Z RWD here to see more ruclips.net/video/ht69BmKDUlc/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Got it. THANK you for your response. Love your video. Subscribed. I will buy this to give it a try.
Please make a video of turning a Kyosho MA-030 to a RWD and set it up for drifting. Or any Kyosho (RWD) MR chassis Would really appreciate it.
Unfortunately Mini-Z MA-030 can only drift when it's AWD and the RWD series can't drift unless we 3D print the whole new chassis to have more steering angle.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for your response. I've seen a video on here where someone basically reproduced a new chassis system for MR-02 with a 3d printer. Wish mini-z comes up with an RWD chassis that can drift. It just bothers me that I use a body that is a RWD in real life with all wheels turning. I was wondering if it had to do with the steering angle but thanks for confirming it!
i love this rwd kit i just have to learn how to drift it
Do u have a link to the wheels and tyres plz
Here you go
Wheels are standard wheels from Mini-Z: what I end up using is offset 1.5 banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDH100W-N15
You can use other brands too, the other one I use is RC-Aurora offset 1: ppm-rcracing.com/products/Mini%252dZ-AWD-Rim-Front-1%C2%B0-%28Gray%29.html
Tyres are included with the car. For spares front: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1165&products_id=14204
Rear (narrow as standard): www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1023&products_id=945
Rear wide if you have different wheels: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1023&products_id=946
I also recommend Mini-Z tyres banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDT001 and banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDT002
If you want something fancy go to DS Racing page here facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ and ask for LF1 for sharp control and LF3 or LF4 if you want to play on hi-grip surface such as carpet.
Great videos! I just bought the DRZ after watching your video and was wondering if it's compatible with all Kyosho parts, specifically the Kyosho rear solid axle (#MDW024).
Unfortunately, no. Differential is not the same. It's from Atomic AMR. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1039&products_id=13026 Or just lock the stock diff, It'll be the same as solid axle.
This car is only compatible with Mini-Z wheel, tyre, swing shaft and body. And radio if you have ASF radio and use DasMikro ASF receiver.
How do you drift AWD? I got a micro rs4.
Well I never have a micro RS4 but principle should be the same. Use plastic drift tires, lock the diff or use solid axle/spool. When drifting, swing the car in while give the throttle then let it slide and adjust the steering accordingly to guide the car where you want. Let go the throttle and turn the other way to do transition or switch to another side.
Sorry, I'm bad at teaching people how to drift.
Great video! Do you think the DRZ is worth purchasing, rather than modifying the older AMR?
Yes, it's still worth the price (albeit 3 times the price) because it has 94mm chassis plate VS 98mm of AMR making it a more agile, the front steering which requires different chassis holes so if you get AMR you'll have to drill them yourself. Also front steering assembly are the mix of parts from BZ and new parts. Modifying these yourself is a big hassle.
Why are they so expensive for there size ?
No idea. I guess the parts are smaller so the manufacturing is difficult.
Beaver's Hobby Because I followed the links for pricing and the conversion to Aud is not something that wants me to buy one .. but I do like them !
@@Alfsp1 Stick with 1/10 if you have place to run it.
Beavers hobby’s can u link me a charger for drz kit plz
Here it is. Imax B6AC, it'll charge everything. bit.ly/2V4wfR1
Hey may I ask if yours came with reverse?
Yes, but you have to calibrate th e throttle first. You probably also need to reverse throttle channel too.
@@BeaversHobby mine seems to have only forward and brake only. I did the throttle calibration a few times already. Maybe I need the programming card to make it work. What a shame. Thanks for your reply.
@@phailstig You'll have to wait a bit to go in to reverse. However it also depends on your transmitter. Some doesn't have good centering and won't work well with this ESC. I don't remember if you can set neutral range but this is hobbywing so I think you can with the programming card.
Hey buddy . Your videos are awesome but don't put oddly non-satisfying music . Your voice is better than that . ;)keep up this ;)
Thank you.
I'm trying to constantly update my video format so it's better to watch, easier to understand and not too boring.
where i can buy this nice wheels? thanks
They are standard Mini-Z AWD wheels. I got them from Banzaihobby.com
The ones I have in this video are 1.5 offset banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MDH100W-N15 . They're out of stock at the moment though.
@@BeaversHobby you can also find a good selection here, they have only 0, 1, 2 and 3 offset but they are very good. ppm-rcracing.com/categories/RC%252dAurora-racing/Rims/
The body 😍 damn
Limb home mode,lol, I like that.
I just finished build my drz. My motor is 7500 kv and it spins when I use throttle only.
Do you have gyro? Does the gyro work correctly? When you swing the car it should counter steer. Check if the wheels hit shock absorber in full lock because that causes spinning too. Also don't apply too much throttle. Try to drive slowly and see if the car works correctly first. Also check the wheels tightness. Front wheels should spin freely.
Awesome vid! Im plannimg to build 1 too scaling down ;p
Question - Is tht a standard size receiver or a mini one?
Good luck with your project!
That's standard receiver. I just make it smaller by take it out of the case and solder new plugs to it, see 4:40 .
Do you have Instagram page?
Sorry, I don't have that.
What should I do
Check gyro settings first.
Wish I could do things like this but everything in my country I expensive and not worth it to build. :(
Check import tax. Sometimes importing it is cheaper.
wish they made more 1/28 for offroad racing, which I prefer.
Come to think of it, yes, there aren't many offerings for 1/28 offroad. So far we have Mini-Z Overland and WLtoys P929 & P939 and that's it. Others micros are 1/24 and 1/32. Some more in 1/28 would be nice.
กี่บาทอ่ะพี่
ราคา rcmart.com ตีเป็นเงินไทยโดยประมาณ โครงเปล่า 4200 ส่วนแบบมีชุดไฟไม่รวมมอเตอร์ ประมาณ 6400 ครับ
จากไทยลองถามร้าน RC บ้านนอกดูครับ ว่ามีของไหมราคาเท่าไหร่ facebook.com/RCBHobby/
@@BeaversHobby โห้ สุดยอดครับ แพงเพราะอะไรหรอพี่
@@Ouddy ไม่รู้เหมือนกันครับ น่าจะค่าออกแบบกับการผลิตมั้ง เพราะชิ้นส่วนก็ไม่ได้ต่างจากรุ่นอื่นเท่าไหร่
Now you should "build" a serious track (for example on carpet)
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm looking in to that. Gotta find some way to make it good layout and compact so I can fit it in my tiny room.
アトミックって香港のメーカーさん。
สั่งมาได้ยางเรียบ4วงเลย สงสัยต้องสั่งยางใหม่555
ลองวิ่งดูก่อนครับว่าใช้ได้ไหม ยางหน้าเรียบก็ไม่ได้แย่นะ
ดูแล้วแพกเกจข้างในมันเปลี่ยนได้เรื่อย ๆ ครับ ของผมซื้อ AMZ มาก็ไม่ตรงหน้าเวปเหมือนกัน
I see why it's called beaver
your accent sound funny
Idk you do you lol y’all better build your own cars ya wimps lol