Special Thanks to Fred Dodge for the 3D Printed guard rails. Time Stamps: Specs & Packages: 0:09 Building Tips: 3:01 Setup: 5:25 Test Drive: 6:59 Conclusion: 8:50
Saya sangat senang noton youTube anda... Saya hanya pengumpul barang bekas rc sudikah anda memberikan yang tak berharga, agar saya dapat melepas hobi saya, karna saya tak seberuntung anda tapi saya nerusaha 🤗🤗🤗
I was big into 1/10th had a glam yd2 and a yokomo dp the local track went bankrupt unfortunately and I don't have much space for them. Finding your videos really got me back into the hobby. Now I got 2 of these and I run them on my billiards table. I used MDF board and used a nice carpet for drifting on it and it's good fun.
By far the best mini rc channel in the world imo. Honest, very informative and the place to learn the nicest tips and tricks about mini rc. Thank you very much for all the great help you provide kind sir.
Thanks for the mention. Always love watching your videos for accurate tips, love the little giggle that you had to use Toyota ae86. Gotta love the ae86. 👍🏽
Excellent video my friend! I have been into micro losi 1/36 scale at the moment, I do have the WLtoys p929 and 959. This video has inspired me to get back into the Wl toys and I may have to pick one of these up! They look really awesome. Thanks for making these in depth videos on these micros, definitely inspired me. Thanks beaver 👍
The body mount parts are from the body. The front lips are unique to each car. You'll get all of the necessary parts when you buy a body so there's nothing to worry about.
Nice review, as always. Just got one (frame only) and while I'm waiting for it to arrive, I'm just getting confused about what servo I need, "micro" or "mini" servo or just a "5g" servo? There seems to be many size variations in each category. Was looking into AFGRC A06CLS or A11CLS or the cheaper B05CLS.
Great review! I actually expected the DRZ to be easier to drive. I only just got a DRZ and haven't finished building it. Would be interested to see a review on the super skeeter DRZ or XRX, but those are a pretty large investment.
Agreed. I think it took me less time to set up HGD1 and impressed it handles well as 90mm. Still think drz is smoother once you get it set up correctly... But it does take more fiddling to set up. Im gonna have a look at xrx next. Can't face super skeeter yet. Building front bulkhead on Drz nearly broke my sanity. 😂
Looking at the Super Skeeter price and I could buy a whole XRX DPA... I think I'd go with XRX. DRZ is good as long as you don't go beyond what steering angle can work effectively. It's really smooth and I like that about it. I'll continue to tune HGD1 a bit more to see how much can I get out of it.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Haha luckily hadn't had much trouble with the front assembly. Just missing some parts and waiting for them to arrive. Hopefully can get it to handle better than my HGD1. Tuning and drifting RWD drift cars is too addictive xD
The motor size is called 130 in general. There are many names for brushless, 1410, 1625, 1525 and 1626. They are all the same size anyway. The best budget set is Surpass Rocket V2 3500KV or 5500KV depending on how big is your track. For small track under 3M width 3500KV will do fine. Otherwise 5500KV will give you more speed for larger track. Of course you can get the fast one (5500KV) and use a smaller pinion to tune as well. As for the ESC it depends on where you are, for some DasMikro V3 on Aliexpress is cheaper and for the others PN Racing V2 is cheaper. Pick either one you can buy. They both use Hobbywing program and are very good.
WLtoys original electronics has a limited servo throw I think it's from the built-in receiver. If you plug it to another receiver you can make it move more with EPA (end point setting) if the transmitter has it. As for RWD drift, normally we just extend the servo horn so the movement is bigger.
No, it's not. But you can use some M2 screws, M2 standoff and magnets with hole in the middle to make your own magnet mount like this one. ruclips.net/video/-kKLbRNrDxY/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby I thought about the wltoys k969 and some rubber tires. just trying to get into the mini class and want something hyprid to not spend to much money.
@@BobBobsta Yes, K969 or K989 is the best in the budget category. It has a lot of room to modify as well so definitely go with that. I'd say K989 is better because it comes with open diff that can be locked for drifting. K969 comes with locked diff for drifting and will struggle if you want to drive normally or touring.
@@BobBobsta Here is why a car needs differentials, just at the beginning and you'll get the idea. ruclips.net/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/видео.html Locked diff is for drifting because there's no difference between 2 wheels and all the wheels get the same amount of power keeping them spinning to provide constant sliding especially with AWD.
Hey beaver, do you think the HGD1 will be compatible with the mini q9 front and rear gear box to convert it to a HGD2? I’m trying to accomplish individual suspension like the new HGD2
I'll have to re-check it but as far as I remember the gearbox is slightly different between kingpin suspension versions (Q3-Q6) and the wishbone suspension (Q7, Q9... which is cloned Q7). The front conversion is going to be difficult since it doesn't allow much steering angle on Q7/Q9. The most you can do is make the rear double wishbone.
The spares are available on Alexpress. Still, most of the parts are cross-compatible with Mini-Q and Mini-Q and also the ball links are standard parts for any car so you can get those pretty easily.
Any Mini-Z AWD compatible ball diff will do fine. I use Sinohobby Mini-Q ball diff. It needs regular maintenance because dirt and grime are getting packed up really quickly but price/performance wise, it's really good. bit.ly/2Wm6puF
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the information. is this good car for racing ? or only good for drift ? how to fix the steering issue that you mentioned it is not precise ? Thanks
@@jerrycheng5409 This is only for drift. You can potentially make it a touring car by reducing the steering angle by shorten the servo horn so it won't turn as much but it won't perform as well as a proper RWD touring car.
The tool for camber is the same one on 1/10. I think I got it with Yeah Racing brand or something like this www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-3-in-1-camber-gauge-bu-for-all-1-8-and-1-10-on-road-cars-yt-0056bu-00030118 . You'll need to be careful because small cars are difficult to measure. As for the toe angle, I use this setup sheet (page 23) www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y . You can also draw a straight line on a paper, put the car on it in parallel and then use ruler to draw the wheel angle then measure that with a protractor.
This HGD1 is the current Q8 RWD, it's alright. You can get Atomic DRZ V2, GL Racing GLD and BMR-X at roughly the same price so I recommend those instead. They are much better.
This car is good for beginner but not because of gyro, it's because of massive steering lock that let you catch any drift. Gyro is necessary for RWD drifting and doesn't make it any easier for beginner. If this was an AWD car, yes, gyro will make it very easy.
Unfortunately the front won't fit directly. You can drill the holes on the chassis to fit but this gearbox+control arm is narrow so it won't work that well.
trie to put a ruber bandconectin the knuckles on the sterin link point from knuckle to knuckle, the ruber band tension will take all the slop away, that is what i do on my 1/10 scale cars rhat have some slop
I find brushed motor smoother at low rev. The brushless motor that is smooth is expensive because you'll have to get a sensored system. Sensorless will have either little cogging in the low rev or starting speed is a bit higher. However brushless has better power delivery so once you punch it you can feel the torque coming in hard.
Basically the same car but with plastic knuckles and some other plastic bits. I don't know if it's from the same manufacture but it's a cheaper option than getting a full aluminium chassis.
Hey beaver's hobby, do you have a video of you adjusting the wheelbase? Also I need to see how the servo is mounted haha I got a metal chassis version on ali express, and it comes assembled without electronics or wheels. I am trying to figure out how to install stuff without losing all the screws haha it would be cool to see a video for it, but I understand youre probably working on other stuff by now.
Here are my build videos. These should help you with putting it together. Part 1 ruclips.net/video/AvZPlJ7FweM/видео.html Part 2 ruclips.net/video/556IAV8qefg/видео.html
I have 2 x 1/10 drift rc, and I'm thinking of buying a 1/28th, I've seen now you have reviews of so many chassis, if you were getting into it now, which would you buy? HGV2, Atomic, GLRacing, DriftArt?
DriftArt3 all the way. Atomic DRZ V3 also seems to be a good car although I haven't tried it yet. GLD is alright if you are OK with doing some upgrades. Anyway, with your experience from 1/10 DriftArt's tricky build should pose no problem to you. It will deliver the best out of the box driving experience.
This is awesome dude, once again youre the best! Anyways, I got my HGD1 in finally and I am trying to extend the wheelbase to fit this Tamiya 1/24 scale model body, I am super excited to get it up and running I hope the brushless motor/esc set I bought comes with a pinion! Do you suggtest metal or plastic pinion?
Normally the motor won't come with a gear but the car will. It'll be a plastic gear and that's perfectly fine. I prefer plastic to metal because it's easier to remove. And if the metal gear doesn't have good quality it will last the same as plastic.
No, you'll have to provide your own spacer. you don't need CH3 to control the gyro gain, just use the dial on the gyro. And some transmitter can't adjust the EPA but at least it should be able to adjust dual rate so use that instead. Otherwise... use skill to control the throttle.
@@bkirkbir 1/24 models usually start from 102mm, most are around 110mm. Brushed is more than enough. I didn't get brushless because I don't know which motor and ESC I'll get and some of them are not so good and it's always a gamble. If you get surpass motor 3500KV, it's good. It if gives you the Mini-Q one... it's very bad. The brushless ESC from ZTW is not very suitable for RWD drifting, no amount of programming can change that. But nowadays there's DasMikro (which is the same as PN) ESC for $22 and it's quite good. You can get that to replace the original ESC if the motor is good. It needs some programming to get it working well for drifting though.
@@BeaversHobby Just ordered the kit, thank you for your help:). Do you think it wont be fun to drift with stock tires and wheels? Btw, mounting point are same as 4wd or 2wd mini-z's ?
It doesn't require any soldering. The 2mm spacer isn't included. But you can also move the ball down one slot and cut the servo horn. This will decrease the steering angle a bit.
You can also find this car from Aliexpress as well. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html It's out of stock in Banggood at the moment too. People tend to not check the availability before ordering so that becomes a problem later. My experience with banggod is excellent. ps. Sorry for late answer. It didn't show up in my feed.
Yes, certainly. You can get a brushed system. A FK130 motor with DumboRC 10A ESC should not cost more than $15. If you prefer brushless system then Surpass Rocket motor is what you need. It's about $22-25 a piece and I recommend DasMikro ESC, it'll be about $30-40. However if you are OK with having a big ESC then Hobbywing EZrun 18A will cost about $20-25. Do not get the Surpass Rocket combo, while motor is great, ESC is the worst you can get. As for the gyro, you can't really skimp on this one. Get something like AGF-GY04M or AFRC GYS-2 V3. It'll cost around $30-40 but it'll be all you'll ever need.
Yes, you can use most parts from Mini-Q Q3-Q7 which can be found on Aliexpress. Wheels & tyres are from Mini-Z AWD. And the parts that are not compatible are unlikely to break.
Hello sir, i am really interrested in the hgd1, but i cannot find a shop that sells spare parts , in my expierience, rc cars brake every now and then...and the kit is to expensive to collect dust because of a broken axle or something. The support for atomic drz is way better where i live,but it doesnt has an option for 90mm wheelbase,what limits the body selection quite a bit...Is there any information on the company that produces the hgd1 and if they are planning to release different Upgrades or spare parts? Really appriciate your Channel,already helped quite a lot,stay Save! Dominik
Unfortunately I don't know which manufacture made this car. However it's based on Mini-Q Q5OP so all the consumable parts are shared with Mini-Q and Mini-Z AWD. The parts you can't find are front bulkhead, servo mount, rear gear holder plate, side clip mounts and chassis plates which are almost impossible to break because they made of aluminium and carbon fibre. Unless you put 10500KV motor in and crash it into a wall at full speed that is... The things that can break like CVD, wheels, tyres, diff, spur gear are the same as Mini-Z AWD. All other parts are the same as Mini-Q. I'm sure this car will last, just like all Mini-Q does.
To be honest I don't feel any need with this car. It would be nice to have if the suspension is double wishbone but with this limited suspension, it's fine as it is.
@@ManicQuinn Theoretically it will effect the stability, the car should steer better and hold the drift better too. It won't help the steering to self-centre like a real car though.
@@BeaversHobby I see, understood o.o I'm currently building my own DIY rc and practically everything is diy, and I'm loving the design of this chassis. The reason why it's diy is because the scale I'm doing at doesn't exist yet I think which is 1:64th. I have yet to see a high performing 1:64 scale rc drift car
@@0ffinnsive It's actually great but it's much too expensive because they'll give you aluminium case ESC which is fantastic for heat dissipation. However they charge it like 2-3 times the price of the plastic case version. Motor is also really good, it's Surpass Rocket V2 so nothing to worry there. Just ask if you can get the V2 or V3 gyro with EPA (end point). All in all, it's great if you don't have anything else yet or don't intend to use your own electronics.
I just built this kit and for some reason it keeps turning to the left on throttle and to the right off throttle. Is there a way to fix this? It makes drifting very hard
Re-check everything from wheel bearings to alignment. Front bearings are sealed and make sure they spins freely. The on-off throttle steering problem is most likely because of the alignment. Try a bit of rear toe in and front to out.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply (and all your videos!). The car seems to do it even with the front wheels off the ground so I've been checking the rear toe to try to correct it.
It depends which Kyosho controller you have. For the RTR radios like KT18, KT19 and KT531P, no, these radios don't have proper functions to make them work with a kit car (no channel reversing). For EX5UR, EX6R, yes, you can get an ASF receiver and use them with kit car like this.
Hi. Does the budget Radiolink receiver feature the same options for limiting steering, gyro, etc? Also, it will work with the kit that includes the brushless motor? Thank you. I love your videos. They keep inspiring me to learn about 1/28 scale drift cars.
Thats a great review. Looks very interesting. Since you mentioned it, Can you make a video on how to use an Aoshima 1/24 body shell on this HGD1 Chassis. I think it would be an interesting video because Aoshima has lots of nice mods body.
Absolutely. I'm looking at how to import that sexy FD RE Amemiya. If that doesn't happen then I'll have to settle with something like M5 I can find locally. Or a Trabant... that would be quite funny.
You can still find it on aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000751651146.html But you can also get other cars at around the same price that's better than this like Atomic DRZ V2.
Hi Beaver, thinking of getting the kit without electronics. Any suggestion for suitable servo? Which setup is better for this car, brushed or BL? Also What's the spur gear pitch? Is it Mod 0.5? Thanks
Most of the standard 5g servos will fit. Mini-Q or WLtoys metal gear is the best budget servo. There's also AGF A11CLS which is one of the best right now. It's a bit narrower but it still fits. As for the motor, either brushed or brushless is fine. Just choose a suitable KV for drifting like 3500KV to 5500KV and you can keep it in control pretty easily. Brushless tends to last longer since there's no carbon brush inside to wear out. Gear pitch is mod 0.5 and 15T-16T is about right.
Hi Beaver, I'm looking for a suitable gyro for hgd1. The gyro that comes with this kit looks similar to AFRC GYS-2 gyro. How good it is actually? Does the servo shaking if you put the gyro gain to maximum? What is your gain setting? Btw BlueArrow AF D43S-6.0-MG servo specs also looks promising but not as expensive as AGF A11cls.
Front lower arms: fully extended. Front upper arms: 22.8mm from the exact centre, measured from the middle of the screw to the outer edge. Rear upper arms, fully retracted. Extend these out if you want more rear grip.
Yes, it looks really well designed. I kind of question the durability though (I have had bad experience with 3D printed chassis) but as far as the design goes, really good. Another interesting 3D printed chassis is PWK V2 which is designed for minimal scrub radius.
This AE86 body is from Firelap, I think you can find it on Aliexpress. My other bodies are from Mini-Z, I bought them (mainly) from Japan. Here's the link to that shop. bit.ly/2CGgozp
Not a full video review yet but here's the written review. facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=beavershobby&set=a.2590142761238036 And test drive. ruclips.net/video/dydh-hi088w/видео.html
I’m looking to buy/build my first Mini Z size AWD or RWD drift car, I’d like to fit a 90mm Mini Z body. Do you think this is my best option? I looked at the Q7, but I saw you mentioned the pinion is impossible to find for 90mm. Any other suggestions? I’m new to this scale RC, Thanks.
Either this or DRZ v2. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=14329 HGD1 is easier to build and cheaper but DRZ v2 has more adjustability.
This one is from Firelap, it's a copy of Kyosho. This is the non-glass coated version. Even though it's not full ASC with all the coating, it's still much better than Firelap. banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MZQ101
Beaver you are doing a great job to promote this hobby. Please, let me make a question. My problem is this. I've: -flysky gt3c, esc and servos - mini q5 brushless: this one is not very good to drift because lot of potency and bad body componets (poorly shock absorber, and plastic diferentials and knuckles) - mini q trq1: i like this one but not very easy to change body shells or perfect to drift - i recently a firelap l408 because now is only 38€ and i have others body shell compatible with this model So now ive lots of trasmitter and diferent components but no one is enough to get a good experience. My Desire is use my gt3c and focus my efforts to one model. Mini z is hard to get components, usually are out o stock. For that reason i try to get a good banggod and get components easily. My questions are: 1)coud be this the best drift kit for me? 2)or: do you recomend me upgrade my other models? 3) could be better buy a wltoy k989 and upgrade it? I have a a989 and is a good car. Thanks a lot for your work.
Yes, Firelap IW04 or L408 can be a good drift car with a bit of upgrades. It also has very good compatibility with Mini-Z bodies too. I'd suggest you upgrade the bearings first, you can buy them off ebay, don't have to be from a Kyosho dealer. Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/hBfqVAzzc3U/видео.html Then since you already have a transmitter, you can get the Emax ES08MDII servo and a cheap ESC to overhaul the electronics. Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/qLM3Qh6kku4/видео.html Then you can upgrade the wheels and tyres to use Mini-Z tyers. I'm not sure if Japan open the air mail route to your country yet but check out banzaihobby for Mini-Z parts. Wheel set for every offset: bit.ly/2VeVZsc 1.5mm offset narrow wheels: bit.ly/2WSecRf Drift tyres: bit.ly/2I3a74k Wide drift tyres (in case you want to use wide wheels): bit.ly/2nZaLIw
I mostly got them from Japan at banzaihobby.com. Here's the link to unpainted bodies, they are way cheaper and even cheaper than a model kit. bit.ly/2CGgozp
Which wheels do you have? There are 2 types of wheels, RWD and AWD. This car uses AWD wheels, not RWD. The wheels have many offset so you will have to find one that fits your body. I'm not sure about the wheel size though. There are the standard one (20mm diameter) and aftermarket 22mm. I only use the standard wheels and those always fit.
@@BeaversHobby I have a miniZ MA010. The wheels for my HGD1 is significantly bigger. The mounting holes on the rims look different too. All my miniZ bodies will not fit. The body that came with my HGD looks bigger then mini Z one too
@@johnleehancong It's possible that the shaft is badly made so it's a tad too big for the original wheel. Forcing the wheels in is not a good solution but if you can nudge them a bit and they fit then it's alright. As for the body, the mounting system is the same. You will need to trim the side clips a bit to fit. just like here. ruclips.net/video/aYAXViOnvgY/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby hmmm 🤔 the current wheels on my HGD also pops out a lot when I put the miniZ body. (As it is larger and wider then miniZ wheels) that makes me think that HGD and miniZ stuff isn’t compatible 😪 i don’t know how you got yours to fit 😭 it looks like a cartoon car man if I can’t get the miniZ wheels mounted. This issue plagued me since I received the HGD 1. I’ve left it aside for months now. Haven’t even tried driving it. 😪 until today I got a new body for miniZ and tried again. To no avail. Seems like it’s going back into the box 🫠
@@johnleehancong I'm sorry to hear that. assume yours came with 22mm wheels with high offset so nothing fits and everything looks wrong. Mine is just standard, I use 0mm offset narrow wheels from AE86 with its body + trimmed side clips and it fits.
Standard 16T pinion + 29T spur is pretty much the one you'll use then adjust the motor to how fast you want it to go. Standard motor is around 3500KV. You can only play with the motor pinion and there isn't much choice anyway so you'll have to experiment yourself.
@@ManicQuinn The gear on the motor shaft is 16T. 29T is on the drive shaft spur that will go to the diff through another reduction gear. There's 8T on the drive shaft that goes to 28T diff gear but those are non-adjustable unless you mod it or change to different diff (which is pretty hard to find nowadays).
@@ManicQuinn I might have confused you a bit there. Sorry about that. The final drive is 6.34 : 1 with 16T motor pinion. It's pretty versatile for the car this size and you can just change the motor to get the speed you want. If you want to play with gearing instead try not to gear it up too much though. It'll be very hard to drive.
Hey Beaver! Thanks for your great Videos! Do you think the K989 electronic will fit in the cheapest hgd1 chassie without the electronic parts? Thanks a lot!
Since I wasn't sure how much servo throw I would need, it's better to have more than less. I'll fix the steering anyway so we'll see if I will keep the spacer later.
No. As far as I know the ESC that comes with it is not that good and you will have to replace it. So get the cheapest version, it'll work fine. And do the upgrade later if you need or whenever the brushes in the motor run out.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Special Thanks to Fred Dodge for the 3D Printed guard rails.
Time Stamps:
Specs & Packages: 0:09
Building Tips: 3:01
Setup: 5:25
Test Drive: 6:59
Conclusion: 8:50
Saya sangat senang noton youTube anda... Saya hanya pengumpul barang bekas rc sudikah anda memberikan yang tak berharga, agar saya dapat melepas hobi saya, karna saya tak seberuntung anda tapi saya nerusaha 🤗🤗🤗
Wish there was a pre-built option available 😭
@@ryanhickey9984 Aliexpress seems to have a pre-built version. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html
You only have the name of the car in the thumbnail...
How to buy
"How much steering angle do you want?"
"Yes"
360 degrees
Ow yeshhh
@@alexanderthegreatish4079 90
😂😂 isn't that what you want
probably the greatest accent of all time
Johnson Nash some people love cheap shots
Its Mort from family guy and a samurai
Simon Monto he sounds nothing like mort dude
I can’t disagree with the comment of “the greatest accent”.👌
One moment he sounds like a Indian next second he sounds Japanese .
Dude that test drive at the end blew my mind, you are a really good driver! You make it look so easy but I'm sure you've had a lot of practice.
That is a paid voice over after for the chinese. This is intellectual property theft.
Vapletrichs Gne how?
@@BlvlWmpower what the hell are you even saying
I was big into 1/10th had a glam yd2 and a yokomo dp the local track went bankrupt unfortunately and I don't have much space for them. Finding your videos really got me back into the hobby. Now I got 2 of these and I run them on my billiards table. I used MDF board and used a nice carpet for drifting on it and it's good fun.
By far the best mini rc channel in the world imo. Honest, very informative and the place to learn the nicest tips and tricks about mini rc.
Thank you very much for all the great help you provide kind sir.
Thanks for mention me Beaver, that's a very detailed review!
Bever's hobby, you are my favourite youtuber, keep going like this!
Superb, thanks for posting this. The chassis looks amazing and I’m loving your driving skills.
Cool video. Precise and clean!
I love your accent. Im spanish and i can understand perfectly!! Jqjqjajja 10 of 10!
Always loved 2wd drifting
It’s like different experience
Great review! I just bought one through your link.
Thanks for the mention. Always love watching your videos for accurate tips, love the little giggle that you had to use Toyota ae86. Gotta love the ae86. 👍🏽
Thank you soo much Beaver for review and tips!. Its really hard to assemble without manual.
Excellent video my friend! I have been into micro losi 1/36 scale at the moment, I do have the WLtoys p929 and 959. This video has inspired me to get back into the Wl toys and I may have to pick one of these up! They look really awesome. Thanks for making these in depth videos on these micros, definitely inspired me. Thanks beaver 👍
Thankyou for the great review as always beaver !
As always, great review!
Now build another one as a fully fledged racer :)
Do you think the chasis fits a 1:24 scale model kits body? Especialy from tamiya. Been dreaming of having mode kits with rc capabilities
Yes, it'll fit. Here I use Tamiya 300ZX with this car. ruclips.net/video/hrUr2lJxqkk/видео.html
Thanks for the honest review 👍 You drift like a king 💎💎
with the servo horn spacer, I am pretty sure you are supposed to attach the tie rods to a lower point and trim the rest so it won't rub.
Attaching the tie rods to a lower point will decrease the steering angle and this car needs all of that.
Love ypur videos bro keep them coming
Love the way he talks. Nice
Awesome little drift car!
Fantastic video. Thanks for uploading
Does it come with the body mount? If so, can i use the body mount on multiple bodies without the need to buy more?
The body mount parts are from the body. The front lips are unique to each car. You'll get all of the necessary parts when you buy a body so there's nothing to worry about.
Nice review, as always.
Just got one (frame only) and while I'm waiting for it to arrive, I'm just getting confused about what servo I need, "micro" or "mini" servo or just a "5g" servo? There seems to be many size variations in each category.
Was looking into AFGRC A06CLS or A11CLS or the cheaper B05CLS.
Great review!
I actually expected the DRZ to be easier to drive. I only just got a DRZ and haven't finished building it.
Would be interested to see a review on the super skeeter DRZ or XRX, but those are a pretty large investment.
Agreed. I think it took me less time to set up HGD1 and impressed it handles well as 90mm. Still think drz is smoother once you get it set up correctly... But it does take more fiddling to set up. Im gonna have a look at xrx next. Can't face super skeeter yet. Building front bulkhead on Drz nearly broke my sanity. 😂
Looking at the Super Skeeter price and I could buy a whole XRX DPA... I think I'd go with XRX.
DRZ is good as long as you don't go beyond what steering angle can work effectively. It's really smooth and I like that about it.
I'll continue to tune HGD1 a bit more to see how much can I get out of it.
@@BeaversHobby Maybe will try getting the XRX DPA in the future, really like how the steering pivot is very close to the wheel.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Haha luckily hadn't had much trouble with the front assembly. Just missing some parts and waiting for them to arrive. Hopefully can get it to handle better than my HGD1. Tuning and drifting RWD drift cars is too addictive xD
hi beaver, can u recommend a motor & esc for hgd1, and what motor size can fit in, thanks a lot if u can recommend
The motor size is called 130 in general. There are many names for brushless, 1410, 1625, 1525 and 1626. They are all the same size anyway.
The best budget set is Surpass Rocket V2 3500KV or 5500KV depending on how big is your track. For small track under 3M width 3500KV will do fine. Otherwise 5500KV will give you more speed for larger track. Of course you can get the fast one (5500KV) and use a smaller pinion to tune as well.
As for the ESC it depends on where you are, for some DasMikro V3 on Aliexpress is cheaper and for the others PN Racing V2 is cheaper. Pick either one you can buy. They both use Hobbywing program and are very good.
Very informative thx bro I'm getting one soon. I'm DEFINITELY saving this
Super cool, i want one 👍👍👍
How to get the servo to do mor angle, the normal 5g wltoys like has such a tiny angle is there a way to increase it? I know it’s non-programmable.
WLtoys original electronics has a limited servo throw I think it's from the built-in receiver. If you plug it to another receiver you can make it move more with EPA (end point setting) if the transmitter has it. As for RWD drift, normally we just extend the servo horn so the movement is bigger.
Does this kit come with magnet body mounting kit. What can I use to do that
No, it's not. But you can use some M2 screws, M2 standoff and magnets with hole in the middle to make your own magnet mount like this one. ruclips.net/video/-kKLbRNrDxY/видео.html
Do you need any extra parts to adjust the wheelbase other than what is included in the box? Thanks.
No, you don't need anything else. All the parts are included.
@@BeaversHobby thats awesome. I might pull the trigger and get one
in your opinion what is the best hybrid car that can do racing and drifting with just changing wheels?
Can't be done with RWD. You'll need an AWD for that. So either Mini-Q Q7, Atomic AMZ or GLA will be great.
@@BeaversHobby I thought about the wltoys k969 and some rubber tires. just trying to get into the mini class and want something hyprid to not spend to much money.
@@BobBobsta Yes, K969 or K989 is the best in the budget category. It has a lot of room to modify as well so definitely go with that. I'd say K989 is better because it comes with open diff that can be locked for drifting. K969 comes with locked diff for drifting and will struggle if you want to drive normally or touring.
@@BeaversHobby what are the disadvantages and advantages of locket and unlocked diff then?
@@BobBobsta Here is why a car needs differentials, just at the beginning and you'll get the idea. ruclips.net/video/ci54dkbc_Bc/видео.html
Locked diff is for drifting because there's no difference between 2 wheels and all the wheels get the same amount of power keeping them spinning to provide constant sliding especially with AWD.
Hey beaver, do you think the HGD1 will be compatible with the mini q9 front and rear gear box to convert it to a HGD2? I’m trying to accomplish individual suspension like the new HGD2
I'll have to re-check it but as far as I remember the gearbox is slightly different between kingpin suspension versions (Q3-Q6) and the wishbone suspension (Q7, Q9... which is cloned Q7).
The front conversion is going to be difficult since it doesn't allow much steering angle on Q7/Q9.
The most you can do is make the rear double wishbone.
Awesome video man, as the car itself. Gotta get one someday :D
Hi there, live the video and am looking to get one, do you know if you can get any spares for it at all?
The spares are available on Alexpress. Still, most of the parts are cross-compatible with Mini-Q and Mini-Q and also the ball links are standard parts for any car so you can get those pretty easily.
One thing it look so hard to do.BUILD THEM UP. THEY ARE AMAZING LOOKING
This is the easiest 1/28 RWD to build right now. It's a bit fiddly but still not driving people insane like Atomic DRZ.
Was there soldering involved in the assembly of the hgd1 kit?
Normally, no. The plugs are all standard JR and the ESC has JST RCY for battery so most of the batteries will use that already.
does any good ball diff that you recommend for this car ? I want to run it as touring car in my home made track. thanks
Any Mini-Z AWD compatible ball diff will do fine. I use Sinohobby Mini-Q ball diff. It needs regular maintenance because dirt and grime are getting packed up really quickly but price/performance wise, it's really good. bit.ly/2Wm6puF
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the information. is this good car for racing ? or only good for drift ? how to fix the steering issue that you mentioned it is not precise ? Thanks
@@jerrycheng5409 This is only for drift. You can potentially make it a touring car by reducing the steering angle by shorten the servo horn so it won't turn as much but it won't perform as well as a proper RWD touring car.
Hello, tell me which model is easier to configure and more advanced hgd1 or atomic drz2?
DRZ V2 all the way.
Thanks for the great video. What is the tool that you have used to measure the camber angle and how did you measure the toe in angle?
The tool for camber is the same one on 1/10. I think I got it with Yeah Racing brand or something like this www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-3-in-1-camber-gauge-bu-for-all-1-8-and-1-10-on-road-cars-yt-0056bu-00030118 .
You'll need to be careful because small cars are difficult to measure.
As for the toe angle, I use this setup sheet (page 23) www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y .
You can also draw a straight line on a paper, put the car on it in parallel and then use ruler to draw the wheel angle then measure that with a protractor.
@@BeaversHobby thank you, you are too kind 👍🏼
@@leeboh87 My pleasure.
I dont have that kit yet but Do you think the fkysky bs6 reciever with gyro work like that ?
Yes, the receiver is just a receiver so as long as you set it right (as VR knob) it'll work with gyro.
hi beaver!, do you have any review on Mini-Q8 RWD drift 1/28 chassis?..do you have any opinion on this chassis? thank you!
This HGD1 is the current Q8 RWD, it's alright. You can get Atomic DRZ V2, GL Racing GLD and BMR-X at roughly the same price so I recommend those instead. They are much better.
Great video! Would you possibly know the maximum battery dimensions for the shortest wheelbase? Thanks in advance!!
300mAh
The gyro enables automatic adjustable countersteer? That's neat and good for beginners
This car is good for beginner but not because of gyro, it's because of massive steering lock that let you catch any drift.
Gyro is necessary for RWD drifting and doesn't make it any easier for beginner. If this was an AWD car, yes, gyro will make it very easy.
Do you think the front steering/suspension will work on a wltoys k969?
Unfortunately the front won't fit directly. You can drill the holes on the chassis to fit but this gearbox+control arm is narrow so it won't work that well.
Ok thanks
Great Video!! You are Awesome!!
trie to put a ruber bandconectin the knuckles on the sterin link point from knuckle to knuckle, the ruber band tension will take all the slop away, that is what i do on my 1/10 scale cars rhat have some slop
Thanks for the tip! Will do!
Is there a different between brushed and brushless motor in throttle? I know that brushless are generally smoother throttle.
I find brushed motor smoother at low rev. The brushless motor that is smooth is expensive because you'll have to get a sensored system. Sensorless will have either little cogging in the low rev or starting speed is a bit higher.
However brushless has better power delivery so once you punch it you can feel the torque coming in hard.
I LOVE your accent. More please
Great video. Online I am seeing a chassis called HGV1. It’s looks the same as this HGD1 but cheaper. What is the difference? Is it just a knock off?
Basically the same car but with plastic knuckles and some other plastic bits. I don't know if it's from the same manufacture but it's a cheaper option than getting a full aluminium chassis.
Bloody awesome
Hey beaver's hobby, do you have a video of you adjusting the wheelbase? Also I need to see how the servo is mounted haha I got a metal chassis version on ali express, and it comes assembled without electronics or wheels. I am trying to figure out how to install stuff without losing all the screws haha it would be cool to see a video for it, but I understand youre probably working on other stuff by now.
Here are my build videos. These should help you with putting it together.
Part 1 ruclips.net/video/AvZPlJ7FweM/видео.html
Part 2 ruclips.net/video/556IAV8qefg/видео.html
My cat will love this!
I have 2 x 1/10 drift rc, and I'm thinking of buying a 1/28th, I've seen now you have reviews of so many chassis, if you were getting into it now, which would you buy? HGV2, Atomic, GLRacing, DriftArt?
DriftArt3 all the way. Atomic DRZ V3 also seems to be a good car although I haven't tried it yet. GLD is alright if you are OK with doing some upgrades.
Anyway, with your experience from 1/10 DriftArt's tricky build should pose no problem to you. It will deliver the best out of the box driving experience.
This is awesome dude, once again youre the best! Anyways, I got my HGD1 in finally and I am trying to extend the wheelbase to fit this Tamiya 1/24 scale model body, I am super excited to get it up and running I hope the brushless motor/esc set I bought comes with a pinion! Do you suggtest metal or plastic pinion?
Normally the motor won't come with a gear but the car will. It'll be a plastic gear and that's perfectly fine. I prefer plastic to metal because it's easier to remove. And if the metal gear doesn't have good quality it will last the same as plastic.
That 2mm spacer came with the kit or not? I don't have a fancy transmitter, how can i adjust those setting?
No, you'll have to provide your own spacer.
you don't need CH3 to control the gyro gain, just use the dial on the gyro.
And some transmitter can't adjust the EPA but at least it should be able to adjust dual rate so use that instead. Otherwise... use skill to control the throttle.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the prompt answer. Already subscribed!!
@@BeaversHobby Btw, do you know wheel base of 1/24 cars? Do you think i should go for brushless version or yours power is enough?
@@bkirkbir 1/24 models usually start from 102mm, most are around 110mm.
Brushed is more than enough. I didn't get brushless because I don't know which motor and ESC I'll get and some of them are not so good and it's always a gamble. If you get surpass motor 3500KV, it's good. It if gives you the Mini-Q one... it's very bad. The brushless ESC from ZTW is not very suitable for RWD drifting, no amount of programming can change that. But nowadays there's DasMikro (which is the same as PN) ESC for $22 and it's quite good. You can get that to replace the original ESC if the motor is good. It needs some programming to get it working well for drifting though.
@@BeaversHobby Just ordered the kit, thank you for your help:). Do you think it wont be fun to drift with stock tires and wheels? Btw, mounting point are same as 4wd or 2wd mini-z's ?
does the kit require any soldering to be ready to run?
also is the 2mm spacer under the top deck included?
It doesn't require any soldering.
The 2mm spacer isn't included. But you can also move the ball down one slot and cut the servo horn. This will decrease the steering angle a bit.
Hey beaver, Does the mini q brushless esc have low voltage cut off?
Yes, it does.
Drift Master!
Is the link the biggest package? I'm on phone, and I don't see it.
The link is for all packages. You can choose the NO. to get different package. 01 is chassis only, 02 is brushed motor and 03 is brushless motor.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you. So if I buy it i got the full car.
@@milan-mn7gh Yes, no.2 (US$228.76
) and 3 (US$258.76). Choose either one you like. Don't forget a radio and body if you haven't got one yet.
Any alternative for banggood? It has a 2/5 star rating and I don't wanna get scammed (ok plz answer)
You can also find this car from Aliexpress as well. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000212209722.html
It's out of stock in Banggood at the moment too. People tend to not check the availability before ordering so that becomes a problem later. My experience with banggod is excellent.
ps. Sorry for late answer. It didn't show up in my feed.
I really want to get these but the electronics included are way overpriced. Can you suggest alternative electronic set?
Yes, certainly.
You can get a brushed system. A FK130 motor with DumboRC 10A ESC should not cost more than $15.
If you prefer brushless system then Surpass Rocket motor is what you need. It's about $22-25 a piece and I recommend DasMikro ESC, it'll be about $30-40. However if you are OK with having a big ESC then Hobbywing EZrun 18A will cost about $20-25. Do not get the Surpass Rocket combo, while motor is great, ESC is the worst you can get.
As for the gyro, you can't really skimp on this one. Get something like AGF-GY04M or AFRC GYS-2 V3. It'll cost around $30-40 but it'll be all you'll ever need.
@@BeaversHobby thanks beaver I appreciate the thorough reply.
Can to sett caster for HDG1?
Unfortunately, no.
are there replacement parts for this kit?
Yes, you can use most parts from Mini-Q Q3-Q7 which can be found on Aliexpress. Wheels & tyres are from Mini-Z AWD. And the parts that are not compatible are unlikely to break.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you so much!
@@wesleyng7912 My pleasure.
Hello sir, i am really interrested in the hgd1, but i cannot find a shop that sells spare parts , in my expierience, rc cars brake every now and then...and the kit is to expensive to collect dust because of a broken axle or something. The support for atomic drz is way better where i live,but it doesnt has an option for 90mm wheelbase,what limits the body selection quite a bit...Is there any information on the company that produces the hgd1 and if they are planning to release different Upgrades or spare parts?
Really appriciate your Channel,already helped quite a lot,stay Save! Dominik
Unfortunately I don't know which manufacture made this car. However it's based on Mini-Q Q5OP so all the consumable parts are shared with Mini-Q and Mini-Z AWD.
The parts you can't find are front bulkhead, servo mount, rear gear holder plate, side clip mounts and chassis plates which are almost impossible to break because they made of aluminium and carbon fibre. Unless you put 10500KV motor in and crash it into a wall at full speed that is...
The things that can break like CVD, wheels, tyres, diff, spur gear are the same as Mini-Z AWD. All other parts are the same as Mini-Q.
I'm sure this car will last, just like all Mini-Q does.
Good video!😉
How do you feel about there not being caster adjustment? Do you think it's important?
To be honest I don't feel any need with this car. It would be nice to have if the suspension is double wishbone but with this limited suspension, it's fine as it is.
@@BeaversHobby If caster adjustments did exist, how would you say it would affect the handling?
@@ManicQuinn Theoretically it will effect the stability, the car should steer better and hold the drift better too. It won't help the steering to self-centre like a real car though.
@@BeaversHobby I see, understood o.o
I'm currently building my own DIY rc and practically everything is diy, and I'm loving the design of this chassis. The reason why it's diy is because the scale I'm doing at doesn't exist yet I think which is 1:64th. I have yet to see a high performing 1:64 scale rc drift car
@@ManicQuinn Nice! Good luck with the project.
Hi beaver, would you say this is still a good value for money kit or should I invest in newer kits like the xrx dpa?
Get a newer, better chassis like GL Racing GLD or Atomic DRZ V2. XRX is also a great choice if you can get the chassis only version.
@@BeaversHobby I could only find xrx with electronics. Is this not very good?
@@0ffinnsive It's actually great but it's much too expensive because they'll give you aluminium case ESC which is fantastic for heat dissipation. However they charge it like 2-3 times the price of the plastic case version. Motor is also really good, it's Surpass Rocket V2 so nothing to worry there.
Just ask if you can get the V2 or V3 gyro with EPA (end point). All in all, it's great if you don't have anything else yet or don't intend to use your own electronics.
I just built this kit and for some reason it keeps turning to the left on throttle and to the right off throttle. Is there a way to fix this? It makes drifting very hard
Re-check everything from wheel bearings to alignment. Front bearings are sealed and make sure they spins freely. The on-off throttle steering problem is most likely because of the alignment. Try a bit of rear toe in and front to out.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the reply (and all your videos!). The car seems to do it even with the front wheels off the ground so I've been checking the rear toe to try to correct it.
@@Raguvian My pleasure. Best of luck!
Does this work with all of the mini z bodies?
Yes, it does.
Would a kyosho controller work on this?
It depends which Kyosho controller you have. For the RTR radios like KT18, KT19 and KT531P, no, these radios don't have proper functions to make them work with a kit car (no channel reversing). For EX5UR, EX6R, yes, you can get an ASF receiver and use them with kit car like this.
Hi. Does the budget Radiolink receiver feature the same options for limiting steering, gyro, etc? Also, it will work with the kit that includes the brushless motor? Thank you. I love your videos. They keep inspiring me to learn about 1/28 scale drift cars.
Yes, it does. Radiolink has all the basic features just like an expensive one. It just doesn't have graphic interface when doing crawler mixing.
Thats a great review. Looks very interesting. Since you mentioned it, Can you make a video on how to use an Aoshima 1/24 body shell on this HGD1 Chassis. I think it would be an interesting video because Aoshima has lots of nice mods body.
Absolutely. I'm looking at how to import that sexy FD RE Amemiya. If that doesn't happen then I'll have to settle with something like M5 I can find locally. Or a Trabant... that would be quite funny.
Nice video
Ask a question Should you choose between motor 3500kv or 5500kv?
Depending on how big the track is. For under 3x3M 3500KV is good. Otherwise get a 5500KV.
Just found the transmitter and receiver I wanted today, but I had this car picked out yesterday and it just "stopped selling" last night :(
You can still find it on aliexpress. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000751651146.html
But you can also get other cars at around the same price that's better than this like Atomic DRZ V2.
Hi Beaver, thinking of getting the kit without electronics. Any suggestion for suitable servo? Which setup is better for this car, brushed or BL? Also What's the spur gear pitch? Is it Mod 0.5? Thanks
Most of the standard 5g servos will fit. Mini-Q or WLtoys metal gear is the best budget servo. There's also AGF A11CLS which is one of the best right now. It's a bit narrower but it still fits.
As for the motor, either brushed or brushless is fine. Just choose a suitable KV for drifting like 3500KV to 5500KV and you can keep it in control pretty easily.
Brushless tends to last longer since there's no carbon brush inside to wear out.
Gear pitch is mod 0.5 and 15T-16T is about right.
Ok thanks
My pleasure.
Hi Beaver, I'm looking for a suitable gyro for hgd1. The gyro that comes with this kit looks similar to AFRC GYS-2 gyro. How good it is actually? Does the servo shaking if you put the gyro gain to maximum? What is your gain setting? Btw BlueArrow AF D43S-6.0-MG servo specs also looks promising but not as expensive as AGF A11cls.
Hi man very nice vidéo, can you tell me Lenght of your front camber and rear
Front lower arms: fully extended.
Front upper arms: 22.8mm from the exact centre, measured from the middle of the screw to the outer edge.
Rear upper arms, fully retracted. Extend these out if you want more rear grip.
@@BeaversHobby for the front camber which is fix on the servo to wheels
@@nakashseetaram2477 Oh, that's the toe angle. The servo rods are 23.5mm. Rear toe arms are 23.0mm, all measured end to end.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much man. Keep doing what doing 👍
@@nakashseetaram2477 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Hi, what is this nice red-white fences you use?
It's 3D printed guard rail I got from my friend on Facebook. He printed it for me. I think you can find similar things on thingiverse as well.
Man this is cool it reminds me of my xmod days I got a alot of them xmod with custom parts and mods
Have you heard about the Leya DS1 3D printed chassis? Andrian Irawan has some videos on it!
Yes, it looks really well designed. I kind of question the durability though (I have had bad experience with 3D printed chassis) but as far as the design goes, really good. Another interesting 3D printed chassis is PWK V2 which is designed for minimal scrub radius.
Hello again. Please tell me where you bought all your body. I especially love ae86. Please
This AE86 body is from Firelap, I think you can find it on Aliexpress.
My other bodies are from Mini-Z, I bought them (mainly) from Japan. Here's the link to that shop. bit.ly/2CGgozp
Banzai hobby dont ship to indonesia. Sad. Thanks for the reply.
@@siebzehn9170 You can probably find them in a Kyosho dealer near you.
Have you done a review of the miniq q5op?
Not a full video review yet but here's the written review. facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=beavershobby&set=a.2590142761238036
And test drive. ruclips.net/video/dydh-hi088w/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Thanks a lot it was a big help.
@@gnihton_8042 My pleasure.
Fujiwara jyanai(hontoni)???
I’m looking to buy/build my first Mini Z size AWD or RWD drift car, I’d like to fit a 90mm Mini Z body. Do you think this is my best option? I looked at the Q7, but I saw you mentioned the pinion is impossible to find for 90mm. Any other suggestions? I’m new to this scale RC, Thanks.
Either this or DRZ v2. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=14329
HGD1 is easier to build and cheaper but DRZ v2 has more adjustability.
Hello Beaver! Where can i buy the ae86 body?
This one is from Firelap, it's a copy of Kyosho. This is the non-glass coated version. Even though it's not full ASC with all the coating, it's still much better than Firelap. banzaihobby.com/Kyosho-MZQ101
@@BeaversHobby thanks Beaver! Best regards!
@@antoniogilmesquita My pelasure.
Beaver you are doing a great job to promote this hobby. Please, let me make a question. My problem is this.
I've:
-flysky gt3c, esc and servos
- mini q5 brushless: this one is not very good to drift because lot of potency and bad body componets (poorly shock absorber, and plastic diferentials and knuckles)
- mini q trq1: i like this one but not very easy to change body shells or perfect to drift
- i recently a firelap l408 because now is only 38€ and i have others body shell compatible with this model
So now ive lots of trasmitter and diferent components but no one is enough to get a good experience. My Desire is use my gt3c and focus my efforts to one model.
Mini z is hard to get components, usually are out o stock. For that reason i try to get a good banggod and get components easily.
My questions are:
1)coud be this the best drift kit for me?
2)or: do you recomend me upgrade my other models?
3) could be better buy a wltoy k989 and upgrade it? I have a a989 and is a good car.
Thanks a lot for your work.
Yes, Firelap IW04 or L408 can be a good drift car with a bit of upgrades. It also has very good compatibility with Mini-Z bodies too.
I'd suggest you upgrade the bearings first, you can buy them off ebay, don't have to be from a Kyosho dealer. Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/hBfqVAzzc3U/видео.html
Then since you already have a transmitter, you can get the Emax ES08MDII servo and a cheap ESC to overhaul the electronics. Here's the tutorial. ruclips.net/video/qLM3Qh6kku4/видео.html
Then you can upgrade the wheels and tyres to use Mini-Z tyers. I'm not sure if Japan open the air mail route to your country yet but check out banzaihobby for Mini-Z parts.
Wheel set for every offset: bit.ly/2VeVZsc
1.5mm offset narrow wheels: bit.ly/2WSecRf
Drift tyres: bit.ly/2I3a74k
Wide drift tyres (in case you want to use wide wheels): bit.ly/2nZaLIw
@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot
@@virtualpinball5065 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Do you know where can I buy 1/28 scale body?
I mostly got them from Japan at banzaihobby.com. Here's the link to unpainted bodies, they are way cheaper and even cheaper than a model kit. bit.ly/2CGgozp
Sweet lil car...
I can’t fit the body for miniZ onto this. The wheels seem to big for it 😞 I can’t mount my mini Z rims too. Different mounting.
Which wheels do you have? There are 2 types of wheels, RWD and AWD. This car uses AWD wheels, not RWD.
The wheels have many offset so you will have to find one that fits your body. I'm not sure about the wheel size though. There are the standard one (20mm diameter) and aftermarket 22mm. I only use the standard wheels and those always fit.
@@BeaversHobby I have a miniZ MA010. The wheels for my HGD1 is significantly bigger. The mounting holes on the rims look different too. All my miniZ bodies will not fit. The body that came with my HGD looks bigger then mini Z one too
@@johnleehancong It's possible that the shaft is badly made so it's a tad too big for the original wheel. Forcing the wheels in is not a good solution but if you can nudge them a bit and they fit then it's alright.
As for the body, the mounting system is the same. You will need to trim the side clips a bit to fit. just like here. ruclips.net/video/aYAXViOnvgY/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby hmmm 🤔 the current wheels on my HGD also pops out a lot when I put the miniZ body. (As it is larger and wider then miniZ wheels) that makes me think that HGD and miniZ stuff isn’t compatible 😪 i don’t know how you got yours to fit 😭 it looks like a cartoon car man if I can’t get the miniZ wheels mounted. This issue plagued me since I received the HGD 1. I’ve left it aside for months now. Haven’t even tried driving it. 😪 until today I got a new body for miniZ and tried again. To no avail. Seems like it’s going back into the box 🫠
@@johnleehancong I'm sorry to hear that. assume yours came with 22mm wheels with high offset so nothing fits and everything looks wrong. Mine is just standard, I use 0mm offset narrow wheels from AE86 with its body + trimmed side clips and it fits.
What gear ratio would you recommend? Is there a theory I could use to figure out the gear ratio based on motor power?
Standard 16T pinion + 29T spur is pretty much the one you'll use then adjust the motor to how fast you want it to go. Standard motor is around 3500KV. You can only play with the motor pinion and there isn't much choice anyway so you'll have to experiment yourself.
@@BeaversHobby I assume the 29T is on the motor shaft?
@@ManicQuinn The gear on the motor shaft is 16T. 29T is on the drive shaft spur that will go to the diff through another reduction gear.
There's 8T on the drive shaft that goes to 28T diff gear but those are non-adjustable unless you mod it or change to different diff (which is pretty hard to find nowadays).
@@BeaversHobby My intention of asking is to get a perspective on the gear ratio between the motor and the rear axle :D
@@ManicQuinn I might have confused you a bit there. Sorry about that. The final drive is 6.34 : 1 with 16T motor pinion. It's pretty versatile for the car this size and you can just change the motor to get the speed you want. If you want to play with gearing instead try not to gear it up too much though. It'll be very hard to drive.
Hey Beaver!
Thanks for your great Videos! Do you think the K989 electronic will fit in the cheapest hgd1 chassie without the electronic parts?
Thanks a lot!
Yes, it will.
@@BeaversHobby great thanks!
I think, I will try your K989 RWD Tuning first. But good to know...
@@unick599 My pleasure. Good luck with project!
I'm surprised you didn't exclude the spacer for the top deck, just moving the ballstud one hole lower on the servo horn, and trimming the excess off
Since I wasn't sure how much servo throw I would need, it's better to have more than less.
I'll fix the steering anyway so we'll see if I will keep the spacer later.
Amazing
Nice bro
Does a Brushless system worth the extra $?
No. As far as I know the ESC that comes with it is not that good and you will have to replace it. So get the cheapest version, it'll work fine. And do the upgrade later if you need or whenever the brushes in the motor run out.
Hi, i just wanna ask.
Which is better? This or the mini Z?
Thanks
If it's only for drifting then this one is better. But for overall quality, Mini-Z is better.
Thanks a lot