Don't get your hopes up... out of the box DRZ is really good. This one isn't even on the "drivable" level. I'll have to take some time to hunt down for setup because I've seen people running this car flawlessly.
haha ok but that is also an interesting/fun part. You two guys helped me the most with my research so thanks to both of you! Do y‘all ever consider driving 1/10 scale cars like for example the MST RMX 2.0?
@@lucada32 I quite like to try some 1/10 but I don't have a space to do it properly. I still have Sakura D3 sitting in a crate untouched for months now.
Parts got really good quality. Almost everything goes together nicely except the front, it needs spacer to clear the servo horn. Apart from that building is pretty straight forward. Driving though... not so good. I've gotta hunt down setup for this.
There are two types of ball bearings and two of them is for the front wheels to spin nicely without much friction to reduce spin out, and the other two that you can see inside are for the rear. If you put the two types of ball bearings the opposite way, the car would be undrivable
First thing come to mind is Mini-Z. It's the easiest to start and doesn't require any fix. If it does it'd be very little fix. AWD if you want to drift & drive, RWD if you want to drive only. If you are on a budget then WLtoys K989 or K969 will give you everything you need, except wheel nut remover. Get a $2 cross wrench and it's completed.
Not really. If you see that the bearings come with some thick protective grease and they don't spin freely then you'll have to clean them. Otherwise you don't have to. I usually clean and lube them to make sure everything works perfectly. I don't do it if I don't have time or I'm in a rush to finish the project.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks that clear enough. After watching many of your videos I've decided to order that chassis with full electronics and a brushless motor. You're doing a great job. Thank you for sharing your experience!
@@jayce704 You'll need standard RC equipment, not the Mini-Z type (although some can use standard RC parts but let's skip that for now). These days you don't have to spend much to get a good radio. For a budget option I recommend Radiolink RC4GS bit.ly/30Uw0wl . If you want something advanced that you can use with Mini-Z EVO as well, get Flysky Noble NB4. bit.ly/2FVvIdy These will come with a receiver too. And you'll get 2 receivers with Flysky Noble. Anyway, stay away from Syncro Touch KT-432PT.
Just finished, doesn't take really long (2 hours) even though I have to figure out how to fix some stuffs right off the bat. Got the same problem as yours as well at the front. I use pretty large spacer to prop the top plate up. Mine doesn't drive very well either. I'll have to look into this. It spins all the time and feels like suspension doesn't really work.
@@BeaversHobby I had this issue at first. I used copper slip on the pin shafts for the suspension. This helped dampen things. For me wide rears helped. I positioned the battery more forwards at an angle using velcro to position nad keep stable. . Turned down the endpoints on the steering, Turned down throttle to 20 perecent. Best thing I found was switching to the radio link combined gyro reciever(I have normal throttle now) . Another youtuber (auranapse) advised me to set front as wide as possible with slight toe out no camber he also mentioned using Mr03 washed under ball joint on front steering knuckles . Good luck 🤞
@@GarageMiniRCUK Thanks. I'll try different tyres first and go from there. These curved tyres are normally really good on other cars, not for this one.
@@BeaversHobby Hope you'll be able to sort it out. Initially I also had trouble but managed to set it up good enough for me. It's quite important that the wheels can spin as freely as possible, and the wheels don't get jammed by the chassis, which was why I suggested using max width with lesser wheel offset. Also the MR03 bushing on the ball joint connecting steering rod prevents the steering from binding at full lock. Would be getting a DRZ soon and can't wait seeing that it seems to handle better out of the box. :D
There are parts all over Aliex, just search for "Sakura D4". Also linkages are cross compatible with any other 1/10 car. Really it'll be better in long run because converting AWD to RWD will end up much more expensive. Unless you want to keep it AWD, HSP is a good option if you don't expect much out of it.
@@BeaversHobby i could only find a few parts for the d4 not all if i break one of those parts i would have to wait till the next time i visit the usa dude that would be a long wait
yeah man i decided not to convert if i decide to drift i might as well go and get a rwd also i think a 1/10 would be a better choice compared to a 1/28
Easy to build. You only need to pay attention which part comes from which bag. I made a mistake of putting wrong bearings in and it ruined the handling. Swap that and everything's perfect.
Easier to build, full aluminium if you want bling, more steering angle and easier to tune. It's harder to spin too but it's jerky and not very precise.
I also have the same car, I fixed the front problem where the servo touches the second board by adding a shim to where it connects Here are a few video tutorials on how to build this car, I followed the tutorials and my car doesn't have any problem and it drifts perfectly, and it rarely spin out even without curved tires. The tutorials are chinese tho since the car was designed in china. But they're still helpful Part 1: www.bilibili.com/video/BV1qe411x7d9 Part 2: www.bilibili.com/video/BV1yA41187S9
Thank you very much. I've finished building it and yes, I also added spacer to the front and the steering moves freely. I still have problem with the setup so I'll see how they build it. Right now my suspect is tyre.
Make sure you don't have the two type of ball bearings the opposite way. I accidently did it the opposite way and the front wheels spins very slow like it's too tight and when it run sometimes the wheels don't even spin. I fixed it by just simply switch the ball bearings from the front to the rear.
![[Review] HGD1 1/28 RWD Drift Car | Build & Setup](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_c-3Nqis7gs/mqdefault.jpg)
Always fun to pick up a new project ;) excited to see what comes of this
it looks quite promising
lucada32 Indeed, should be a fun little car. I’m starting to get intrigued by RWD cars
Don't get your hopes up... out of the box DRZ is really good. This one isn't even on the "drivable" level. I'll have to take some time to hunt down for setup because I've seen people running this car flawlessly.
haha ok but that is also an interesting/fun part. You two guys helped me the most with my research so thanks to both of you! Do y‘all ever consider driving 1/10 scale cars like for example the MST RMX 2.0?
@@lucada32 I quite like to try some 1/10 but I don't have a space to do it properly. I still have Sakura D3 sitting in a crate untouched for months now.
Can't wait to see this assembled, looks like a nice little kit.
Parts got really good quality. Almost everything goes together nicely except the front, it needs spacer to clear the servo horn. Apart from that building is pretty straight forward. Driving though... not so good. I've gotta hunt down setup for this.
Marlon says the same thing 😳
@@megamanswagking7926 Collapsed rear camber to the max and now it's almost impossible to spin. I like this.
There are two types of ball bearings and two of them is for the front wheels to spin nicely without much friction to reduce spin out, and the other two that you can see inside are for the rear. If you put the two types of ball bearings the opposite way, the car would be undrivable
I gotta check that. Thanks so much.
can i use k989 electronics to this HGD1?
Yes, you can. Keep in mind that you won't be able to adjust the gyro gain from the transmitter.
Is there a link to buy car i dont see. You usually do where can i buy
Thanks for reminding me. I totally forgot that.
Hey Beaver...Whats your favorite drift mini RC? Not overly modified, just a brand and model you would highly recommend for someone starting out?
First thing come to mind is Mini-Z. It's the easiest to start and doesn't require any fix. If it does it'd be very little fix. AWD if you want to drift & drive, RWD if you want to drive only.
If you are on a budget then WLtoys K989 or K969 will give you everything you need, except wheel nut remover. Get a $2 cross wrench and it's completed.
Why do you want to clean the bearings? I that a must?
Not really. If you see that the bearings come with some thick protective grease and they don't spin freely then you'll have to clean them. Otherwise you don't have to.
I usually clean and lube them to make sure everything works perfectly. I don't do it if I don't have time or I'm in a rush to finish the project.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks that clear enough.
After watching many of your videos I've decided to order that chassis with full electronics and a brushless motor. You're doing a great job. Thank you for sharing your experience!
@@jayce704 You'll need standard RC equipment, not the Mini-Z type (although some can use standard RC parts but let's skip that for now).
These days you don't have to spend much to get a good radio. For a budget option I recommend Radiolink RC4GS bit.ly/30Uw0wl . If you want something advanced that you can use with Mini-Z EVO as well, get Flysky Noble NB4. bit.ly/2FVvIdy
These will come with a receiver too. And you'll get 2 receivers with Flysky Noble.
Anyway, stay away from Syncro Touch KT-432PT.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you! I will go with the Flysky Noble.
@@jayce704 My pleasure. Good luck with the project!
Is the gyro the same as afrc gys2?
Yes, it's the same. It's really smooth and responsive.
This car is better than the DRZ out of the box if you build it the right way:)
I'm watching even though I've already built mine, just to see a how a pro does it. 👍🏽
Just finished, doesn't take really long (2 hours) even though I have to figure out how to fix some stuffs right off the bat. Got the same problem as yours as well at the front. I use pretty large spacer to prop the top plate up.
Mine doesn't drive very well either. I'll have to look into this. It spins all the time and feels like suspension doesn't really work.
@@BeaversHobby I had this issue at first. I used copper slip on the pin shafts for the suspension. This helped dampen things. For me wide rears helped. I positioned the battery more forwards at an angle using velcro to position nad keep stable. . Turned down the endpoints on the steering, Turned down throttle to 20 perecent. Best thing I found was switching to the radio link combined gyro reciever(I have normal throttle now) . Another youtuber (auranapse) advised me to set front as wide as possible with slight toe out no camber he also mentioned using Mr03 washed under ball joint on front steering knuckles . Good luck 🤞
@@GarageMiniRCUK Thanks. I'll try different tyres first and go from there.
These curved tyres are normally really good on other cars, not for this one.
@@BeaversHobby yes forgot that, I tried the ds racing ones first then went with mini z.
@@BeaversHobby Hope you'll be able to sort it out. Initially I also had trouble but managed to set it up good enough for me.
It's quite important that the wheels can spin as freely as possible, and the wheels don't get jammed by the chassis, which was why I suggested using max width with lesser wheel offset. Also the MR03 bushing on the ball joint connecting steering rod prevents the steering from binding at full lock.
Would be getting a DRZ soon and can't wait seeing that it seems to handle better out of the box. :D
im looking to get eh BM Racing .. are you getting that ?
No, that one is much too expensive.
More drift car video pleas!
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Bro...u are so neat bro...salute u
it is extremely expensive man
also what about spares for it
There are parts all over Aliex, just search for "Sakura D4". Also linkages are cross compatible with any other 1/10 car. Really it'll be better in long run because converting AWD to RWD will end up much more expensive.
Unless you want to keep it AWD, HSP is a good option if you don't expect much out of it.
@@BeaversHobby i could only find a few parts for the d4 not all
if i break one of those parts i would have to wait till the next time i visit the usa dude
that would be a long wait
yeah man
i decided not to convert
if i decide to drift i might as well go and get a rwd
also i think a 1/10 would be a better choice compared to a 1/28
@@LegendaryRc Yes, keep it AWD. It'll slide just fine.
@@BeaversHobby yeah bro
that is good enough for me
Can't wait to see you build it and drift it. It looks like a good kit, will it be a drz killer??
We'll see. Still solving something I might have done wrong.
What up beaver how are u liking it brother ? Easy build for a guy like you .
Easy to build. You only need to pay attention which part comes from which bag. I made a mistake of putting wrong bearings in and it ruined the handling. Swap that and everything's perfect.
I don't see any reason to pick this over the atomic kit tbh
Easier to build, full aluminium if you want bling, more steering angle and easier to tune.
It's harder to spin too but it's jerky and not very precise.
Hi
Hello there.
I also have the same car, I fixed the front problem where the servo touches the second board by adding a shim to where it connects
Here are a few video tutorials on how to build this car, I followed the tutorials and my car doesn't have any problem and it drifts perfectly,
and it rarely spin out even without curved tires. The tutorials are chinese tho since the car was designed in china. But they're still helpful
Part 1: www.bilibili.com/video/BV1qe411x7d9
Part 2: www.bilibili.com/video/BV1yA41187S9
Thank you very much. I've finished building it and yes, I also added spacer to the front and the steering moves freely. I still have problem with the setup so I'll see how they build it. Right now my suspect is tyre.
@@BeaversHobby I have no problems with anything out of the box tho:)
@@BeaversHobby Make sure your front wheels can spin freely for more than five seconds.
@@STANCED This might just be the problem for me. The hubs are pretty tight and front wheels don't spin as freely as my other cars.
Make sure you don't have the two type of ball bearings the opposite way. I accidently did it the opposite way and the front wheels spins very slow like it's too tight and when it run sometimes the wheels don't even spin. I fixed it by just simply switch the ball bearings from the front to the rear.
Why you sound so sad.
don't be sad man
OMG I've never realized my normal speaking voice sounded sad. Today I use collar mic to record directly. Normally I'd record voice over separately.
Usually you sound enthusiastic but now a bit sad
Nah, I like the natural approach for sure. I love that you’re mixing up recording styles Beaver. Good job as always good sir.