Tried any different motors in the rwd mini-q yet ? Pn racing 50t w ball bearings in the motor case should give it a nice boost in speed and shouldn't pull that much current in load either. Only rc i got working atm myself is a tomy gx buggy I've modified with a external lipo & a 7x20mm motor (From a dead quadcopter both the battery & lipo + battery connector and the charger ofc.) puu.sh/DpZ4l/700b9bf563.jpg Top speed I'd estimate with the mods is about 25+ km/h atm on a freshly charged lipo so not bad for what you can buy for like 12 - 15 usd now on banggood for almost the same car & with the parts id estimate another 10 - 15 usd at best for usb charger, extra female connector like the charger (or just buy 2x usb chargers and snip off one of them and put on the car), battery & some velcro or similar too attach the battery on top of the car, unless you dont mind taping the battery too the car like i do with the 2 other lipos i mainly use with my quadcopter. The gx buggy has ofc been cloned a whole lot, like for example the velocis 2.4 ghz buggy is essentially a clone of it with some minor improvements, like better body mounting & a bit less boring design on the rims. www.banggood.com/Banggood-132-RC-Racing-Car-Mutiplayer-in-Parallel-Operate-USB-Charging-Edition-RC-Formula-Car-p-1089389.html?rmmds=category&ID=224&cur_warehouse=USA Heres one that has been modified with a mini-z awd pcb & rims + front kingpin axle + ballbearings from the mini-z ruclips.net/video/Z0QMqIbYpks/видео.html running video on a mini-z track (does pretty well for still being a solid rear axle.) ruclips.net/video/eO5UylqEYIs/видео.html Been planning a bit on modifying the front with the kingpins from some spare mini-z kingpins so i can use wheels with ball bearings in the front for some smoother rolling wheels rather then friction fit wheels and the axles wobbling & spinning in the kingpins. (Steering is full or nothing but throttle is proportional so with some weight balancing and better tires (some have complained about the foam tires being uneven or wobbly.) it should do pretty well for the money. There is also the wltoys a999 which has a proper servo in the front but still solid rear axle and no diff if you want too perhaps build a touring car with some very light materials using the rear pod + diff,wheels,tires from the rwd mini-q that was long wheelbase too start with for the chassis and figuring out how too mount the motor + pinion. & basically building a micro scale pan car out of it. Still haven't gotten around too 2.4 ghz converting my mini-z mr01 here as i lack money for it but sits nicely on the shelf with the kyosho autoscale subaru impreza 1998 body still + the gx buggy does well as a indoor runner for me. I've run the gx buggy on mini-z tires as well soft 30 if i recall correctly, does have enough grip too flip over from a standstill on the right surface with the mini-z tires on there or the foam tires pinning the throttle even if i have the lipo ontop of the car like that. (Silvertaped it as i have tried it a bit outdoors and flipping it over might scrape up the battery so figured id protect it a bit extra and it does bounce about a lot due too it being so small heh.)
@@Mini-z1994 PN is really hard to find here. The only one I can find is also constantly out of stock. Anyway, I'm waiting for Tamiya Mini 4WD motors to arrive and see how they perform in various cars. Your mod is very clean. It looks like it meant to be.
@@BeaversHobby Tried the kenonhobby store ? they got the pn racing 70t ball bearing motor there, which isn't far off from what the car comes with i think which should be a 80t stock motor www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-PNWC-70-Turn-Ball-Bearing-Motor_p_46001.html
@@Mini-z1994 Shipping to Europe is prohibitively expensive from Kenon. I'm waiting for RCparts.eu to have it. Right now there's only 50T and I don't know if Mini-Q ESC can handle it. Either way it's probably too fast for me. I've managed to spin the car even with standard motor. Anyway, by the time I got enough money 70T is probably back in stock.
Your channel is by far the best of its kind ! I subscribed after watching only one episode ! You cover everything perfectly and accurately answering any question I might have! You and your channel is the best!
I really hope you're an engineer of some kind.. your mind and way of thinking is priceless in this day and age!. Keep up the good work beaver 👏 Love your insights and build processes!
Love your videos, really informative and helps me with my cars. I just recently got a K989 and have decided to go with AWD CS mod as I've already got the DRZ and Mr03 for RWD. I just ordered the BM racing alu sliding rack for the DRZ from Hong Kong, hopefully it will come soon :D
if you can 3d print youre wheels ims (little bit less in diameter) somewhere then the miniz mazda2 (demio) body will fit even with stock front setup plenty of room. stock wheels will be 0.5 mm wider than the body and the fenders will make contact. im planning to print my wheels when i have time. stock chassies will fit my miata body. if you use a body kit or wheel well extenders you could shave of from the fenders. wheelbase length is spot on.
Looking forward to see how your project goes. Mini-Z MX-5 body is 90mm though so you might have to do something about the wheelbase as WLtoys is stock 98mm. If you can print a new chassis and use DWS suspension from WLtoys it'll be fantastic. As for the Demio, well, all FWD Mini-Z are 98mm narrow with 1.5mm offset so since WL is 98mm wide chassis, just change the wheel to 0mm offset and it'll fit without having to print anything. The reason I want to try modding plastic model because it's another thing I got requested quite often.
@@BeaversHobby ow my mistake i ment the demio body. i always trow them together and here we call them mazda2 and mx5 :) Thx for all youre hard word sad to see this was the last k989 video :) Good luck, Will look youre next vid :)
Same thing with my real cars here : shouting to wife, wich car do you take!, The mazda....... WICH ONE ...... THE BLUE ONE.... oh the mazda 2 oke XD then i have the MX5 and visa versa ^^
Haha. It's pretty much the same as when my house got same brand of cars we had to call them by colours. Well, this K989 is quite old now and after nearly 3 years of abuse I might have to decommission it soon. My other car, the touring one is still going though.
thats a nice trick adding grease to those cheap plastic shocks... many cars don't need much shock and thisis soo easy and cheap fix... i think i will add grease to sg 1603 it should improve handling...thanks.
Thanks for the suggestion. I understand saving space is crucial in this scale. However from my experience, internal gyro on receiver doesn't work well with RWD drifting. It works and will get you some slide but nowhere near the external gyro unit that I use.
@@BeaversHobby I have a flysky radio and sinohobby receiver if I connect the gc301 gyroscope to the sinohobby you think it can work. With the flysky esc radio module and gyroscope it works but I cannot mount the body
@@andreamaggi3233 It'll work. Which flysky do you have? Only one comes with internal gyro and the gyro will work only of you use it with specific receiver.
@@andreamaggi3233 Nice! It doesn't have onboard gyro but you can add your GC301 to it. If you want it to be compact and you can do soldering, you can make shorter wires for it.
Great vid. I've got a clue of these cra. The inexpensive ones so far. This mod here I would love to do on my 989. Looks tuff tho. U just make thi stuff look easy eh...
I use some plastic sheet like shampoo bottle or bottle cap (make sure it has some thickness to it), drill it to the size of the shock then cut it out to use as spacer.
@@KF-hb5vx That depends on the setup you want. Generally for AWD drift I only soften the front so the rear can break traction easier. For RWD I'd soften the rear as well.
Hello again beaver. As always you succesfully bring me deeper into mini rc. My next project is to repro this rwd setup from you. Wish me luck. Its been a while since your final update. Is there anything you would've change to make it better? Anyway you also said something about steering geometry. Can you please create a tutorial or explanations about that?
In hind sight, I should have used new parts that are not battered and worn out so they won't break easily in crashes. There are also other improvements due to the development in technologies. Nowadays there's a micro gyro that works as well, if not better than this big gyro for 1/10 and it's the same price too bit.ly/2UW9Kip . There's also a better budget brushless electronics from Surpass www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html . About the geometry I follow the setup manuals from other cars like X-Power MIT www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf and this one www.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Set_Up_Guide.pdf . Thanks for the suggestion too, I really should make a video how I setup my cars. Best of luck with the conversion.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the recommendation beaver. For the surpass hobby motor esc combo you recommended, which kv best suited with drifting? Best of luck to you as well. Stay safe and healthy!
There's only rear diff because it's RWD and yes, it's locked. If you have enough steering angle then yes, it will work with the stock motor and ESC too. But you won't be able to remotely control the gyro gain and only use the dial on the unit.
I don't know if they are still available now but you can find some different parts from other cars like Orlandoo Hunter. The ball heads will be smaller but should work the same. Take a look in Aliexpress for them.
Thanks for the suggestion. I went to look it up and wow, it's tiny. Would be prefect to put it in the JJRC Micro-T clone too. Unfortunately I'll decommission this car soon because I just discovered that it started to fall apart.
@@rexonmarkreyes7947 The thing is aluminium upgrades for this car creates more problems than solving them. Moving to new chassis is actually more financially sounded.
Quick question: do you know if the K969 is exactly the same car as the k989? Your videos are really a big help with these cars. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
They are the same car, same chassis with different body. K969 is labelled as drift car because it comes with solid axles (permanently locked diffs) and drift tyres. K989 is rally/touring because it comes with open gear diff and grip tyres. However open diff can be locked but solid axle can't be opened and stock drift tyres are not good so I suggest you upgrade them with Mini-Z wheels and tyres anyway. I'd say choose the car according to the body you like. If you choose K989 you will get more settings like front open diff and rear locked diff while K969 can't do that. Anyway sooner or later you'll replace front diff with one way so your choice between K989 and K969 really comes down the which body do you like.
Hi Mr Beaver which 1/28 servo do you recommend? Ive burnt over 7 no.s now because it gets very hot and currently working on adjustment on my rwd turning
If it gets too hot and burn that often then I'd look at the steering assembly first. It should be moving freely and doesn't get stuck otherwise it will burn whatever servo you use. The best one I've used is the AGF A11CLS but if you do RWD with custom servo mount you can also use AGF A06CLS which is a bit thinner and will give you more room on the car.
Is it better to convert the k989 to RWD instead of AWD for drifting? I have locked the rear diff but the front diff is a metal ball diff and is still AWD. I am wondering if it would perform better with the ball diff at minimum stiffness and remove the AWD shaft to make it RWD.
I'd say RWD is more fun and challenging than AWD. You will need large steering angle to successfully make it a RWD drift car. That process has mixed result, some get it working, some will end up ruining their cars so do it with caution and understand the risk beforehand.
@@BeaversHobby thanks. I’m new to drifting so it’s still challenging. Also I am in a tight indoor area so sounds like AWD is my best option. I currently have a metal ball diff in the front. Would I get a noticeable improvement with a one way diff in front instead?
@@sideburn Yes, you will notice a difference. One way will make you turn in more aggressively and it can act like it has a handbrake when you let go of the throttle so you can drift in small space easier.
i hve one problem..sometime when drifting my rc..i noticed that one of front wheel didnt touch the flor..like if i turn right..left wheel will hanging..how to fix that.
@@farkhiali9513 There's screw hole on the lower arm on each side. Put M2 screw in there to adjust the downstopper until the wheels won't lift when you turn. Also check if there's any excessive pull to any of the arm when you turn. Moving things and changing the ball link or servo position can also help.
@@BeaversHobby one more thing..when i push throttle at full..the car keep spinning..but at low speed the car a little controlable and drifting..is it because of weight balance or what..weight 60/40 at back 60..
@@farkhiali9513 You'll have to learn to control the car. You don't go full throttle too much with RWD. Also you need to limit the throttle if you haven't done so. RWD drift is slow.
hye beaver. is it possible if i just buy the carbon fiber chassis of k989 & find the rest k989 part i need and built for rwd drift rc? please bro beaver
Yes, I think you can still find all the parts on Aliexpress. Not sure if getting the whole car is cheaper or not though. Carbon chassis will mess up the ride height so you'll need to grind the lower arms support down otherwise the car will be lowered and not in a good way.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the reply. im in dilema. want to buy rtr k989 and upgrade like u or build with empty chasis. what u prefer bro beaver. seem like carbon chassis not recomended. 😅 btw thanks again. ❤️
@@syafiqcod6602 RTR then mod it will be the better. But if you want a RWD car nowadays you can get RWD drift chassis like DRZ V2 and GL Racing GLD for around $150, BMR-X with some electronics for $199 which are better car than modded WLtoys.
You can still use the original electronics. Keep in mind that you will have to get a gyro that has a dial to adjust the gain because the original electronics doesn't have channel 3 or VR to adjust the gain remotely.
EZrun is much, much better than this. It's also a lot bigger. If you are looking for a budget brushless system that's not too big and would work well now there's Surapss Rocket combo. From what I've heard it's really good especially for the price. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html
@@BeaversHobby Awesome! THanks for the reply. Much appreciated! I'm really just looking into smoothness of throttle like how a sensored esc feels. In the past, I have handled EZRUN 60A and it feels smooth enough. Also, would the BEC output of the EZRUN 18A not fry the stock servo?
@@dencio1976 It's as smooth as any other Hobbywing so that's really good. EZrun 18A has 6V BEC so it might some servo. My stock servo is holding up but I have a replacement that's compatible with 6V ready for replacement on hand.
Beaver's Hobby again, thanks for the information! I'm in the process of finishing my rwd converted WLToys K969. 1/28 is still kinda raw for me. Just like how it was with 1/10 rwd back in 2013. Info wasn't much then . Had to experiment everything. So I am glad, now starting with 1/28, I got reliable guys who I can ask and reply gladly. Thanks! More power to your youtube!
Thanks for the video. I recently bought the K989 car, along with the Austar 6803 tyres from Banggood. Can you please suggest wheels/rims that fit these hard tyres? Also, which spare parts should I add in cart? Parts that break easily and need replacement?... Thanks again!
I answered the wheels & tyres question in other video already so here are the spares you need to stock. Front & rear pinion bit.ly/32IBbxJ Diff bit.ly/3gCVwvA or you can upgrade them to metal ball differential bit.ly/38mU5xQ .
Hi, All your video is very nice.Like to see all !!!! One question, so on your final setup you don't have Aluminum upgrade. Is there a reason for that ?
Thanks for your kind words. This video was before I bought any aluminium parts. Not that it matter anyway because all of them will need fixing to get them working properly. I'd suggest you stick with as much plastic parts as you can. The aluminium parts that actually improve the car are knuckle and shock tower. Upper arms are quite alright so you can adjust the camber easier but you'll need to get loctite or thread lock to apply on the screw.
@@barbaryannfpv9967 Yes, for WLtoys this is what I found work best for me and it's one of the lowest budget methods you can do. Nowadays there are many RWD drift chassis you can get as well as 3D printed part to convert WLtoys to RWD drift so you can go that route too.
Did you mean this MIT setup sheet? www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR2tfAvaV3rzOLfDQKMhP2XTmGfxG6xtRrH7sM9EIgMf_5CAT4HevE23drw
As always, loved the vid 👍 I noticed you said about the upper arms getting weaker....... did you know they make an adjustable metal upgrade upper arm for the wltoys 1/28 now? I'm thinking of getting some to try to make a mono shock with
The adjustable upper arms create more problem than solving it. It's too long for standard width, you need to upgrade the knuckles to aluminium to accept the new ball heads. If you don't want absolute bling, don't use it.
Hey i notice you use the 10t pinion what about the spur? Im building my own k989 rwd. Almost finish 😅. Im using your awesome build as a reference. Nice build !
I have a video specifically about this topic. ruclips.net/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/видео.html I also have spreadsheet from all the bodies I've tried. It's not complete yet and I'll open it for public editing soon so everyone can contribute. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY/ The label "MR03" doesn't mean much except the wheels are not compatible, you'll need AWD wheels for this car. Basically you'll need to check the width because WLtoys is a wide chassis, so if you look at MR03, look for MR03 wide and make sure it got high bonnet. A new one like Camaro ZL1 should fit perfectly. I just wait to buy one to confirm the wheel offset for WLtoys.
Yes, I use gyro. It's necessary for RWD drift. The tutorials are in the previous videos. Part2 more steering: ruclips.net/video/QIi_DY06pJY/видео.html Part3 even more steering, caster, etc.: ruclips.net/video/KXmDLnptEgU/видео.html
@@ferrucciosanchezz07 The tutorial for installation is the same as this one ruclips.net/video/fM4rk6PV0ls/видео.html except if your gyro doesn't have EPA function you can skip that part. All the wiring is the same.
Sorry for the late reply. Monoshock will allow the wheels to turn to the maximum angle so it can drift in RWD. Otherwise the wheels will hit the shocks when turning and it won't have as much steering angle.
@@tristanpascual2581 That depends on the motor you use. For a standard motor or under 7000KV, 15T will be fine. If you upgrade the motor to a very fast one you'll need to decrease the motor pinion so it doesn't go too fast.
I just bought a k969 yesterday, it ran perfectly for 15 minutes but after changing of 40 minutes when I tried to use it again. then only the steering works but the throttle is not working at all, what should I do?
@@anshaldrin1346 The blinking light indicates that the battery is low. Do you have a multimeter or anytrhing to check if the battery is actually charged?
Yes, you can. Although might not be as responsive as a dedicated unit but it'll work. Don't forget to mount it with soft double sided tape to iron out the vibration.
Hello recently been following ur wltoys builds very great job sir! Was wondering if you know if the gptoys drift shark 1/ 26 is a clone of the wltoys 1/28???
No, it's not a clone. It's a variation of JJRC Q35 which is almost similar to WLtoys except the bearing size, width. Also wheels and dog bones are not cross compatible.
@@BeaversHobby so will any wltoys 1 28 parts work? Sorry as i do have many questions because i ordered a drift shark but ordered all hop ups for wltoys 1 28 lol
@@johnlaclair4271 Rear toe bar will work. Diff will also work. Another thing is the pinion gear on the motor, it's the same pitch. Apart from those, unfortunately, no. Even suspension arms are different but you probably can mod it to fit with WL upgrade parts.
Seems like Gening has stopped making D561MG. Any 5g or similar servo with 0.1s speed will work. If you don't mind plastic gear and analog servo CYS S0005 also works. bit.ly/32olr2x If you want the best servo right now there's AGF A11CLS. bit.ly/2kevKFL There's also another one that caught my eye. I haven't tried it yet but it should work too. bit.ly/2PqArts
Would this servo work? m.banggood.com/2pcs-PTK-5g-Digital-Servo-7350-MG-D-me%3Cx%3Etal-Gear-For-EPP-E3P-Airplane-Indoors-Mini-RC-Drone-Aircraft-Helicopter-p-1621608.html?akmClientCountry=America&rmmds=search
Mine is a continuation from previous project so I paid about $25 for the gyro and $5 for linkages. If you want to do it too, bare minimum (price from today 20/6/2020) are as following, Car bit.ly/2Vr4fWQ = $52 Linkages bit.ly/3cI4tAN = $6 Gyro bit.ly/2UW9Kip = $27 Wheels bit.ly/2WSecRf & Tyres (contact DS Racing at facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ ) ~$15 Total = $100 Optional, Brushless motor + ESC can go form $40-$100. Radio can go from $25-$600. A very good servo is about $30-$60.
Yes, it can. They are all the same car with different body. However you will need longer body posts because K989 body rear mounting point is high up on the roof.
@@BeaversHobby i do have another question. can the maisto datsun 510 body can fit this is the picture i am currently unsure so i will ask questions before buying it
The tracking shows it has just arrived in my country. The review should be out within 2 weeks (providing the post offices are working... you'll never know when will they strike.. LOL).
Video takes time and I'm still collecting data + writing the review so here's my first impression. The Good - Cheap, right now it’s $32 (about $34 after shipping) - RTR or rather RTD; Ready To Drift because it’s equipped with drift tyres and solid axle. - Good Handling - Good gear mesh - Good centering servo, relatively precise but a bit jerky at times - Has gyro (if you’re new to drifting, this helps a lot) - Compatible with Mini- AWD springs, universal shaft (CVD), wheels, differential The Bad - A bit noisy - Servo is not very fast, just OK for drifting. - Tragic looking body but colour is nice - Dodgy quality control. My receiver can’t be turned off. I have to eject the battery tray instead. When the car is this cheap and drives this good. I don’t really have anything to complain. Just open the box, insert battery and drive without having to fix anything. It's been quite some time since I had a car that doesn't have to fix anything out of the box. Highly recommended! Visit my Facebook page for photos facebook.com/1979091059009879/photos/?tab=album&album_id=2287204114865237
I suppose you can still find the equivalent parts. The 3.5mm ball caps are the same on Atomic BZ rear camber arm. Gyro is pretty advance nowadays. You can get a good one like AFRC GYS-2 V4 and it'll work even better than the one in this video.
You will get the same result using the stock motor and cel on this $40 car and just modify the front servos for drifting the rest is a waste of money imo
Yes, you'll get the same result with modded steering, stock electronics + gyro providing the steering angle is enough. However mine looks complicated and overpriced because this is continuation from my last project (CS drift). The motor was already on its way out so I swapped it for brushless. Stock transmitter has huge deadzone on steering so I just use the other one I already have.
Hi friend, I´m looking to buy a 989, in your opinion, only must lock the rear diff, buy drift tyres and modify the front servos? when you say modify front servos, what modifications are you telling to do? thanks man
You can do basic things like increasing steering angle and installing gyro, as I said in the video. But yes, getting Atomic DRZ will get you more durable car. However don't forget that you'll have to get your own transmitter, motor, wheels, body ,diff grease, tools, battery and charger for Atomic. In conclusion, doing it with WLtoys is will get you the same result for cheaper, but the car is less durable. (plenty of time, not much money) DRZ will be more expensive but the car is more durable in crashes and easier to change the settings. (plenty of money, not much time)
I did it in my 2nd episode. ruclips.net/video/QIi_DY06pJY/видео.html Here's where the original idea came from. ruclips.net/video/AkJMC8d1W7Q/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby well I took suspension in college because I am a collision specialist and it is pretty much the same thing like these little rc cars that is where they got the idea from right with the suspension mimicking a real automobile suspension
Well, it's not about power with RWD drift. It's about control. I even have to gear it down because it's too fast. By the way, I'm decommissioning this car soon.
![[Review] HGD1 1/28 RWD Drift Car | Build & Setup](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_c-3Nqis7gs/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Review] HGD1 1/28 RWD Drift Car | Build & Setup](/img/tr.png)
Time Stamps
Suspension Setup: 0:21
Electronics Setup: 1:55
Transmitter Setup: 3:28
Conclusion: 3:53
Drifting Footage: 4:45
Tried any different motors in the rwd mini-q yet ?
Pn racing 50t w ball bearings in the motor case should give it a nice boost in speed and shouldn't pull that much current in load either.
Only rc i got working atm myself is a tomy gx buggy I've modified with a external lipo & a 7x20mm motor
(From a dead quadcopter both the battery & lipo + battery connector and the charger ofc.)
puu.sh/DpZ4l/700b9bf563.jpg
Top speed I'd estimate with the mods is about 25+ km/h atm on a freshly charged lipo so not bad for what you can buy for like 12 - 15 usd now on banggood for almost the same car & with the parts id estimate another 10 - 15 usd at best for usb charger, extra female connector like the charger (or just buy 2x usb chargers and snip off one of them and put on the car), battery & some velcro or similar too attach the battery on top of the car, unless you dont mind taping the battery too the car like i do with the 2 other lipos i mainly use with my quadcopter.
The gx buggy has ofc been cloned a whole lot, like for example the velocis 2.4 ghz buggy is essentially a clone of it with some minor improvements, like better body mounting & a bit less boring design on the rims.
www.banggood.com/Banggood-132-RC-Racing-Car-Mutiplayer-in-Parallel-Operate-USB-Charging-Edition-RC-Formula-Car-p-1089389.html?rmmds=category&ID=224&cur_warehouse=USA
Heres one that has been modified with a mini-z awd pcb & rims + front kingpin axle + ballbearings from the mini-z
ruclips.net/video/Z0QMqIbYpks/видео.html
running video on a mini-z track (does pretty well for still being a solid rear axle.)
ruclips.net/video/eO5UylqEYIs/видео.html
Been planning a bit on modifying the front with the kingpins from some spare mini-z kingpins so i can use wheels with ball bearings in the front for some smoother rolling wheels rather then friction fit wheels and the axles wobbling & spinning in the kingpins.
(Steering is full or nothing but throttle is proportional so with some weight balancing and better tires (some have complained about the foam tires being uneven or wobbly.) it should do pretty well for the money.
There is also the wltoys a999 which has a proper servo in the front but still solid rear axle and no diff if you want too perhaps build a touring car with some very light materials using the rear pod + diff,wheels,tires from the rwd mini-q that was long wheelbase too start with for the chassis and figuring out how too mount the motor + pinion. & basically building a micro scale pan car out of it.
Still haven't gotten around too 2.4 ghz converting my mini-z mr01 here as i lack money for it but sits nicely on the shelf with the kyosho autoscale subaru impreza 1998 body still + the gx buggy does well as a indoor runner for me.
I've run the gx buggy on mini-z tires as well soft 30 if i recall correctly, does have enough grip too flip over from a standstill on the right surface with the mini-z tires on there or the foam tires pinning the throttle even if i have the lipo ontop of the car like that.
(Silvertaped it as i have tried it a bit outdoors and flipping it over might scrape up the battery so figured id protect it a bit extra and it does bounce about a lot due too it being so small heh.)
@@Mini-z1994 PN is really hard to find here. The only one I can find is also constantly out of stock. Anyway, I'm waiting for Tamiya Mini 4WD motors to arrive and see how they perform in various cars.
Your mod is very clean. It looks like it meant to be.
@@BeaversHobby Tried the kenonhobby store ? they got the pn racing 70t ball bearing motor there, which isn't far off from what the car comes with i think which should be a 80t stock motor www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-PNWC-70-Turn-Ball-Bearing-Motor_p_46001.html
@@Mini-z1994 Shipping to Europe is prohibitively expensive from Kenon. I'm waiting for RCparts.eu to have it. Right now there's only 50T and I don't know if Mini-Q ESC can handle it. Either way it's probably too fast for me. I've managed to spin the car even with standard motor.
Anyway, by the time I got enough money 70T is probably back in stock.
@@Mini-z1994 One other question. How does the Mini-Z X Speed V compared to PN motor? What's X Speed T rating?
Your channel is by far the best of its kind ! I subscribed after watching only one episode !
You cover everything perfectly and accurately answering any question I might have!
You and your channel is the best!
I really hope you're an engineer of some kind.. your mind and way of thinking is priceless in this day and age!. Keep up the good work beaver 👏
Love your insights and build processes!
Love your videos, really informative and helps me with my cars. I just recently got a K989 and have decided to go with AWD CS mod as I've already got the DRZ and Mr03 for RWD. I just ordered the BM racing alu sliding rack for the DRZ from Hong Kong, hopefully it will come soon :D
Good luck with your projects.😉
if you can 3d print youre wheels
ims (little bit less in diameter) somewhere then the miniz mazda2 (demio) body will fit even with stock front setup plenty of room. stock wheels will be 0.5 mm wider than the body and the fenders will make contact. im planning to print my wheels when i have time. stock chassies will fit my miata body. if you use a body kit or wheel well extenders you could shave of from the fenders. wheelbase length is spot on.
Looking forward to see how your project goes. Mini-Z MX-5 body is 90mm though so you might have to do something about the wheelbase as WLtoys is stock 98mm. If you can print a new chassis and use DWS suspension from WLtoys it'll be fantastic. As for the Demio, well, all FWD Mini-Z are 98mm narrow with 1.5mm offset so since WL is 98mm wide chassis, just change the wheel to 0mm offset and it'll fit without having to print anything. The reason I want to try modding plastic model because it's another thing I got requested quite often.
@@BeaversHobby ow my mistake i ment the demio body. i always trow them together and here we call them mazda2 and mx5 :) Thx for all youre hard word sad to see this was the last k989 video :) Good luck, Will look youre next vid :)
Same thing with my real cars here : shouting to wife, wich car do you take!, The mazda....... WICH ONE ...... THE BLUE ONE.... oh the mazda 2 oke XD then i have the MX5 and visa versa ^^
Haha. It's pretty much the same as when my house got same brand of cars we had to call them by colours.
Well, this K989 is quite old now and after nearly 3 years of abuse I might have to decommission it soon. My other car, the touring one is still going though.
thats a nice trick adding grease to those cheap plastic shocks... many cars don't need much shock and thisis soo easy and cheap fix... i think i will add grease to sg 1603 it should improve handling...thanks.
*Damn! That thing looks sweet!*
omg my first transmitter😭😭
hello the sinohobby receiver with gyroscope obviously connected on the screen can be used in this way you can save some space
Thanks for the suggestion. I understand saving space is crucial in this scale. However from my experience, internal gyro on receiver doesn't work well with RWD drifting. It works and will get you some slide but nowhere near the external gyro unit that I use.
@@BeaversHobby I have a flysky radio and sinohobby receiver if I connect the gc301 gyroscope to the sinohobby you think it can work.
With the flysky esc radio module and gyroscope it works but I cannot mount the body
@@andreamaggi3233 It'll work. Which flysky do you have? Only one comes with internal gyro and the gyro will work only of you use it with specific receiver.
@@BeaversHobby i have the flysky gt3c and sinohobby 2 in 1 receiver with the radio receiver and esc works already tried
@@andreamaggi3233 Nice! It doesn't have onboard gyro but you can add your GC301 to it. If you want it to be compact and you can do soldering, you can make shorter wires for it.
Great vid. I've got a clue of these cra. The inexpensive ones so far. This mod here I would love to do on my 989. Looks tuff tho. U just make thi stuff look easy eh...
Dude great videos! How did you make the custom spring spacers? Trying to soften up front suspension
I use some plastic sheet like shampoo bottle or bottle cap (make sure it has some thickness to it), drill it to the size of the shock then cut it out to use as spacer.
@@BeaversHobby oh man so smart. Thanks so much!! Should I do it to both front and rear? Or just front?
@@KF-hb5vx That depends on the setup you want. Generally for AWD drift I only soften the front so the rear can break traction easier. For RWD I'd soften the rear as well.
@@BeaversHobby thank you so much. Seeing as I'm using 4wd I will try to soften the front. Thanks again!!!!
Is that gyro the same as you'd use in a 1/10th scale???
Yes, it is. Basically they can use the same gyros but the ones that made for 1/28 are just smaller.
@@BeaversHobby thanks so much turns out I could have converted mine to rwd long time ago 😅😅
I need to find your video on how u made that steering lock to lock so great!!
I did it in the episode 3, here it is. ruclips.net/video/KXmDLnptEgU/видео.html
Hi @beaber was that a tamiya 2mm lock nut? Used on your wheels?
Yes, it's M2 lock nut. You can use Tamiya Mini 4WD part too if you have it.
I basically buy generic M2 lock nuts in bulk because those are cheaper.
@@BeaversHobby thanks Beaver 🦫
Can I buy
Sorry, I don't sell cars. Check out MJ Modify. He sells RWD modded WLtoys.
Hello again beaver. As always you succesfully bring me deeper into mini rc. My next project is to repro this rwd setup from you. Wish me luck.
Its been a while since your final update. Is there anything you would've change to make it better?
Anyway you also said something about steering geometry. Can you please create a tutorial or explanations about that?
In hind sight, I should have used new parts that are not battered and worn out so they won't break easily in crashes. There are also other improvements due to the development in technologies. Nowadays there's a micro gyro that works as well, if not better than this big gyro for 1/10 and it's the same price too bit.ly/2UW9Kip .
There's also a better budget brushless electronics from Surpass www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html .
About the geometry I follow the setup manuals from other cars like X-Power MIT www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf and this one www.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Set_Up_Guide.pdf .
Thanks for the suggestion too, I really should make a video how I setup my cars.
Best of luck with the conversion.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the recommendation beaver. For the surpass hobby motor esc combo you recommended, which kv best suited with drifting?
Best of luck to you as well.
Stay safe and healthy!
@@siebzehn9170 3500KV is the best to start with. It's not too fast and it got plenty of torque to spin the wheels.
Hi Mr Beaver just wanna check with you, is it possible to drive ur rwd in a straight line cause mine can drift but never go on a straight line forward
It can go straight only if you go slowly.
@@BeaversHobby good answer, tq bro
Where did you get that paper with the markings for setting toe?
are the front and rear diff locked? would this setup work on a stock motor and esc??
There's only rear diff because it's RWD and yes, it's locked. If you have enough steering angle then yes, it will work with the stock motor and ESC too. But you won't be able to remotely control the gyro gain and only use the dial on the unit.
does the standard k989 front knuckle already use bearings?
Yes, it does.
@@BeaversHobby can you review the rwd upgrade part for k989 which is made of 3d print?
@@rizal.vian31 Unfortunately I don't have a 3D printer so no, I can't do that. At least can't do that yet.
Hi Mr Beaver, can i know where you got your pull rod and ball head for rwd
I don't know if they are still available now but you can find some different parts from other cars like Orlandoo Hunter. The ball heads will be smaller but should work the same. Take a look in Aliexpress for them.
@@BeaversHobby tq bro
if your e.p.a. is at 40%,, you can get by with the xc-6a speed controller.. its lighter and significantly smaller footprint
Thanks for the suggestion. I went to look it up and wow, it's tiny. Would be prefect to put it in the JJRC Micro-T clone too.
Unfortunately I'll decommission this car soon because I just discovered that it started to fall apart.
@@BeaversHobby don't.. they have a lot of aluminum upgrades on aliexpress, even the adjustable camber option.. all for k989 platform
@@rexonmarkreyes7947 The thing is aluminium upgrades for this car creates more problems than solving them. Moving to new chassis is actually more financially sounded.
Very good. Has any wltoys 1/28 ready for drift. Or with minimal mods?
WLtoys K969 is the drift car version. It's equipped with solid axle (or locked diff) and drift tyres out of the box.
Quick question: do you know if the K969 is exactly the same car as the k989? Your videos are really a big help with these cars. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
They are the same car, same chassis with different body.
K969 is labelled as drift car because it comes with solid axles (permanently locked diffs) and drift tyres.
K989 is rally/touring because it comes with open gear diff and grip tyres.
However open diff can be locked but solid axle can't be opened and stock drift tyres are not good so I suggest you upgrade them with Mini-Z wheels and tyres anyway.
I'd say choose the car according to the body you like.
If you choose K989 you will get more settings like front open diff and rear locked diff while K969 can't do that. Anyway sooner or later you'll replace front diff with one way so your choice between K989 and K969 really comes down the which body do you like.
Hi Mr Beaver which 1/28 servo do you recommend? Ive burnt over 7 no.s now because it gets very hot and currently working on adjustment on my rwd turning
If it gets too hot and burn that often then I'd look at the steering assembly first. It should be moving freely and doesn't get stuck otherwise it will burn whatever servo you use. The best one I've used is the AGF A11CLS but if you do RWD with custom servo mount you can also use AGF A06CLS which is a bit thinner and will give you more room on the car.
@@BeaversHobby way out of my budget but will look into the steering movement, thanks a bunch
Is it better to convert the k989 to RWD instead of AWD for drifting? I have locked the rear diff but the front diff is a metal ball diff and is still AWD. I am wondering if it would perform better with the ball diff at minimum stiffness and remove the AWD shaft to make it RWD.
I'd say RWD is more fun and challenging than AWD.
You will need large steering angle to successfully make it a RWD drift car. That process has mixed result, some get it working, some will end up ruining their cars so do it with caution and understand the risk beforehand.
@@BeaversHobby thanks. I’m new to drifting so it’s still challenging. Also I am in a tight indoor area so sounds like AWD is my best option. I currently have a metal ball diff in the front. Would I get a noticeable improvement with a one way diff in front instead?
@@sideburn Yes, you will notice a difference. One way will make you turn in more aggressively and it can act like it has a handbrake when you let go of the throttle so you can drift in small space easier.
@@BeaversHobby ok I will try it. Do you recommend any metal parts as well? Steering cups? Gear boxes etc? I have the newer 284131.
@@sideburn Not really. The original plastic parts for 284131 are already smooth so you only need to upgrade once the original parts are worn out.
i hve one problem..sometime when drifting my rc..i noticed that one of front wheel didnt touch the flor..like if i turn right..left wheel will hanging..how to fix that.
i hope you get the idea of my problem.my english is bad..😂.sorry
@@farkhiali9513 There's screw hole on the lower arm on each side. Put M2 screw in there to adjust the downstopper until the wheels won't lift when you turn.
Also check if there's any excessive pull to any of the arm when you turn. Moving things and changing the ball link or servo position can also help.
@@BeaversHobby thank you..😊
@@BeaversHobby one more thing..when i push throttle at full..the car keep spinning..but at low speed the car a little controlable and drifting..is it because of weight balance or what..weight 60/40 at back 60..
@@farkhiali9513 You'll have to learn to control the car. You don't go full throttle too much with RWD. Also you need to limit the throttle if you haven't done so. RWD drift is slow.
hye beaver. is it possible if i just buy the carbon fiber chassis of k989 & find the rest k989 part i need and built for rwd drift rc? please bro beaver
Yes, I think you can still find all the parts on Aliexpress. Not sure if getting the whole car is cheaper or not though. Carbon chassis will mess up the ride height so you'll need to grind the lower arms support down otherwise the car will be lowered and not in a good way.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the reply. im in dilema. want to buy rtr k989 and upgrade like u or build with empty chasis. what u prefer bro beaver. seem like carbon chassis not recomended. 😅 btw thanks again. ❤️
@@syafiqcod6602 RTR then mod it will be the better. But if you want a RWD car nowadays you can get RWD drift chassis like DRZ V2 and GL Racing GLD for around $150, BMR-X with some electronics for $199 which are better car than modded WLtoys.
@@BeaversHobbyalright. mybe i will research first about the kit u say. thank beaver.
@@syafiqcod6602 My pleasure.
Do you need to upgrade the electronics or could a stock component k989 also work as a RWD drifter?
You can still use the original electronics. Keep in mind that you will have to get a gyro that has a dial to adjust the gain because the original electronics doesn't have channel 3 or VR to adjust the gain remotely.
Which ESC would be better? This one in the video or EZRUN 18A you used on your touring WLToys?
EZrun is much, much better than this. It's also a lot bigger. If you are looking for a budget brushless system that's not too big and would work well now there's Surapss Rocket combo. From what I've heard it's really good especially for the price. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000900570121.html
@@BeaversHobby Awesome! THanks for the reply. Much appreciated!
I'm really just looking into smoothness of throttle like how a sensored esc feels. In the past, I have handled EZRUN 60A and it feels smooth enough.
Also, would the BEC output of the EZRUN 18A not fry the stock servo?
@@dencio1976 It's as smooth as any other Hobbywing so that's really good. EZrun 18A has 6V BEC so it might some servo. My stock servo is holding up but I have a replacement that's compatible with 6V ready for replacement on hand.
Beaver's Hobby again, thanks for the information! I'm in the process of finishing my rwd converted WLToys K969. 1/28 is still kinda raw for me. Just like how it was with 1/10 rwd back in 2013. Info wasn't much then . Had to experiment everything. So I am glad, now starting with 1/28, I got reliable guys who I can ask and reply gladly. Thanks! More power to your youtube!
@@dencio1976 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
You're awesome!
Thanks for the video. I recently bought the K989 car, along with the Austar 6803 tyres from Banggood. Can you please suggest wheels/rims that fit these hard tyres?
Also, which spare parts should I add in cart? Parts that break easily and need replacement?... Thanks again!
I answered the wheels & tyres question in other video already so here are the spares you need to stock.
Front & rear pinion bit.ly/32IBbxJ
Diff bit.ly/3gCVwvA or you can upgrade them to metal ball differential bit.ly/38mU5xQ .
Awwwwww drift king you arrrrrrr 😂😂😂
Hi, All your video is very nice.Like to see all !!!!
One question, so on your final setup you don't have Aluminum upgrade. Is there a reason for that ?
Thanks for your kind words. This video was before I bought any aluminium parts. Not that it matter anyway because all of them will need fixing to get them working properly. I'd suggest you stick with as much plastic parts as you can. The aluminium parts that actually improve the car are knuckle and shock tower. Upper arms are quite alright so you can adjust the camber easier but you'll need to get loctite or thread lock to apply on the screw.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for your quick answer.
So now, 2 years after, for you the best setup is the same like this one ?
@@barbaryannfpv9967 Yes, for WLtoys this is what I found work best for me and it's one of the lowest budget methods you can do. Nowadays there are many RWD drift chassis you can get as well as 3D printed part to convert WLtoys to RWD drift so you can go that route too.
Amazing .Thanks for video .
As usual awesome video.
Hi Beaver, somewhere you had a web link to a PDF file with suspension set ups. Unfortunately I can't find it anymore.
Did you mean this MIT setup sheet?
www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR2tfAvaV3rzOLfDQKMhP2XTmGfxG6xtRrH7sM9EIgMf_5CAT4HevE23drw
Yes, exactly that one. Thank you very much🙌🙏
Can you tell me what the measurements from the servo gear to the ball joint is? The total length of the servo horn.
About 16mm.
Wow! Great job! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
As always, loved the vid 👍 I noticed you said about the upper arms getting weaker....... did you know they make an adjustable metal upgrade upper arm for the wltoys 1/28 now? I'm thinking of getting some to try to make a mono shock with
The adjustable upper arms create more problem than solving it. It's too long for standard width, you need to upgrade the knuckles to aluminium to accept the new ball heads. If you don't want absolute bling, don't use it.
Hey i notice you use the 10t pinion what about the spur? Im building my own k989 rwd. Almost finish 😅. Im using your awesome build as a reference. Nice build !
I use stock 29T spur. This was from the old batch of 1/28 so I only got 1 spur gear.
Beaver's Hobby okay thank you for the info ! Hope to see some new build in the future from you 💪🏻👍🏻
@@ezriafiqazni4707 My pleasure.
Hello new to this manufacturer. Can you please tell me if Kyosho mini z mr03 body able to fit over this chassis? Thanks.
I have a video specifically about this topic. ruclips.net/video/-gCJEXXWBEo/видео.html
I also have spreadsheet from all the bodies I've tried. It's not complete yet and I'll open it for public editing soon so everyone can contribute.
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY/
The label "MR03" doesn't mean much except the wheels are not compatible, you'll need AWD wheels for this car. Basically you'll need to check the width because WLtoys is a wide chassis, so if you look at MR03, look for MR03 wide and make sure it got high bonnet. A new one like Camaro ZL1 should fit perfectly. I just wait to buy one to confirm the wheel offset for WLtoys.
What u use end ball and cap ball thank
I use linkages and balls from Mini-Q Q5. bit.ly/3cI4tAN
Other 3.5mm ball caps from a small helicopter like Trex250 also work.
Thank... a lot..
@@verve78arief My pleasure.
MERCI POUR M AVOIR DONNER QUELQUES ID2ES...THANK GOOD JOB MAN...
Tutorial mod wheel angle caster pls.. btw are u using gyro ?
Yes, I use gyro. It's necessary for RWD drift.
The tutorials are in the previous videos.
Part2 more steering: ruclips.net/video/QIi_DY06pJY/видео.html
Part3 even more steering, caster, etc.: ruclips.net/video/KXmDLnptEgU/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby can u do tutorial how to install gyro? Im new rc player pls .
@@ferrucciosanchezz07 The tutorial for installation is the same as this one ruclips.net/video/fM4rk6PV0ls/видео.html except if your gyro doesn't have EPA function you can skip that part. All the wiring is the same.
@@BeaversHobby tq for respond and helping 😁
why is a Mono shock up front better?
Sorry for the late reply.
Monoshock will allow the wheels to turn to the maximum angle so it can drift in RWD. Otherwise the wheels will hit the shocks when turning and it won't have as much steering angle.
What gears should I get for this setup?
Motor pinion: 15T
Spur: 29T
@@BeaversHobby if i keep the drive gear at 8T and the spur gear at 29T, is it better to have the motor pinion at 15T or make it 8T?
@@tristanpascual2581 That depends on the motor you use. For a standard motor or under 7000KV, 15T will be fine. If you upgrade the motor to a very fast one you'll need to decrease the motor pinion so it doesn't go too fast.
@@BeaversHobby alright. Thank you so much. I'll keep the 15T for now until i change to a brushless system
I just bought a k969 yesterday, it ran perfectly for 15 minutes but after changing of 40 minutes when I tried to use it again. then only the steering works but the throttle is not working at all, what should I do?
ruclips.net/user/shortszv_uhrLrn-k?feature=share
Like this
@@anshaldrin1346 The blinking light indicates that the battery is low. Do you have a multimeter or anytrhing to check if the battery is actually charged?
@@BeaversHobbyno I don't have that, I charged it again for 2 hours tho, nothing happened
@@anshaldrin1346 It is possible that the charger is faulty and didn't charge the battery.
Can I use only the gyro in the receiver Radiolink R6FG for this project?
Yes, you can. Although might not be as responsive as a dedicated unit but it'll work. Don't forget to mount it with soft double sided tape to iron out the vibration.
@@BeaversHobby thank you so much Beaver, much appreciated your support 🙌🙏
@@thomasbuser6975 My pleasure.
Hello recently been following ur wltoys builds very great job sir! Was wondering if you know if the gptoys drift shark 1/ 26 is a clone of the wltoys 1/28???
No, it's not a clone. It's a variation of JJRC Q35 which is almost similar to WLtoys except the bearing size, width. Also wheels and dog bones are not cross compatible.
@@BeaversHobby so will any wltoys 1 28 parts work? Sorry as i do have many questions because i ordered a drift shark but ordered all hop ups for wltoys 1 28 lol
@@johnlaclair4271 Rear toe bar will work. Diff will also work. Another thing is the pinion gear on the motor, it's the same pitch. Apart from those, unfortunately, no. Even suspension arms are different but you probably can mod it to fit with WL upgrade parts.
john laclair what did you end up doing with your shark?
Hello beaver's hobby... I try to find gening servo d561mg in banggood but unavailable. May you have any option for rwd wltoys k989? Thx
Seems like Gening has stopped making D561MG. Any 5g or similar servo with 0.1s speed will work. If you don't mind plastic gear and analog servo CYS S0005 also works. bit.ly/32olr2x
If you want the best servo right now there's AGF A11CLS. bit.ly/2kevKFL
There's also another one that caught my eye. I haven't tried it yet but it should work too. bit.ly/2PqArts
Ok thank you....
Would this servo work? m.banggood.com/2pcs-PTK-5g-Digital-Servo-7350-MG-D-me%3Cx%3Etal-Gear-For-EPP-E3P-Airplane-Indoors-Mini-RC-Drone-Aircraft-Helicopter-p-1621608.html?akmClientCountry=America&rmmds=search
@@goingcrazy00 It's a tad smaller but it'll work.
@@BeaversHobby thank you. So it will fit in the servo bracket on 969?
cost totally?how much
Mine is a continuation from previous project so I paid about $25 for the gyro and $5 for linkages.
If you want to do it too, bare minimum (price from today 20/6/2020) are as following,
Car bit.ly/2Vr4fWQ = $52
Linkages bit.ly/3cI4tAN = $6
Gyro bit.ly/2UW9Kip = $27
Wheels bit.ly/2WSecRf & Tyres (contact DS Racing at facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ ) ~$15
Total = $100
Optional,
Brushless motor + ESC can go form $40-$100.
Radio can go from $25-$600.
A very good servo is about $30-$60.
Would the metal upgrade diff from this work in a jjrc q36?
It'll work. Both use same differential after all. At least I've seen people using Q36 diff in WLtoys.
excellent work sir. whats the price tag now?
Minus the transmitter, this whole project costs about $160.
Hello! Is the wltoys k989 body can fit in wltoys k969? Pls respond
Yes, it can. They are all the same car with different body. However you will need longer body posts because K989 body rear mounting point is high up on the roof.
@@BeaversHobby oh ok thank you!
@@Snuffzy My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby i do have another question. can the maisto datsun 510 body can fit this is the picture i am currently unsure so i will ask questions before buying it
@@Snuffzy I don't know. Sorry.
Nice
Hey Beaver, any signs of your TRQ1?
The tracking shows it has just arrived in my country. The review should be out within 2 weeks (providing the post offices are working... you'll never know when will they strike.. LOL).
I’m hyped to see how you mod it!
Video takes time and I'm still collecting data + writing the review so here's my first impression.
The Good
- Cheap, right now it’s $32 (about $34 after shipping)
- RTR or rather RTD; Ready To Drift because it’s equipped with drift tyres and solid axle.
- Good Handling
- Good gear mesh
- Good centering servo, relatively precise but a bit jerky at times
- Has gyro (if you’re new to drifting, this helps a lot)
- Compatible with Mini- AWD springs, universal shaft (CVD), wheels, differential
The Bad
- A bit noisy
- Servo is not very fast, just OK for drifting.
- Tragic looking body but colour is nice
- Dodgy quality control. My receiver can’t be turned off. I have to eject the battery tray instead.
When the car is this cheap and drives this good. I don’t really have anything to complain. Just open the box, insert battery and drive without having to fix anything. It's been quite some time since I had a car that doesn't have to fix anything out of the box.
Highly recommended!
Visit my Facebook page for photos facebook.com/1979091059009879/photos/?tab=album&album_id=2287204114865237
That angle😳
Super late to the party all the links are dead or out of stock lol
I suppose you can still find the equivalent parts. The 3.5mm ball caps are the same on Atomic BZ rear camber arm. Gyro is pretty advance nowadays. You can get a good one like AFRC GYS-2 V4 and it'll work even better than the one in this video.
I love your accent
สปีดบัสเลส กับมอเตอร แรงกว่าของเดิมเยอะไหม่คับ เอาเล่นทัวร์ริ้งแรงๆได้ไหมคับ
เซ็ตนี้ไม่เวอร์คครับ เจอยางหนึบรถแทบไม่เคลื่อน + รอบมาช้า อยากได้ไปเล่นทัวริ่ง เอาแบบราคาไม่แรงผมแนะนำมอเตอร์ Surpass Rocket 5500KV ขึ้นไป กับสปีด Hobbywing EZrun 18A มาตัด+บัดกรีสาย เซ็ตนี้คุ้มมาก
แต่ถ้าอยากได้รอบต่ำสมูธด้วย ก็ใช้สปีดของ Atomic หรือ GL ครับ
@@BeaversHobby ขอบคุณครับ
You will get the same result using the stock motor and cel on this $40 car and just modify the front servos for drifting the rest is a waste of money imo
Yes, you'll get the same result with modded steering, stock electronics + gyro providing the steering angle is enough. However mine looks complicated and overpriced because this is continuation from my last project (CS drift). The motor was already on its way out so I swapped it for brushless. Stock transmitter has huge deadzone on steering so I just use the other one I already have.
Hi friend, I´m looking to buy a 989, in your opinion, only must lock the rear diff, buy drift tyres and modify the front servos? when you say modify front servos, what modifications are you telling to do? thanks man
@@pirrivk13 Sorry for late reply. You'll need longer servo horn (servo/arm where it holds the steering rod) so you can get more steering out of it.
So basically by the time I'm done building this I should just get the atomic
You can do basic things like increasing steering angle and installing gyro, as I said in the video. But yes, getting Atomic DRZ will get you more durable car. However don't forget that you'll have to get your own transmitter, motor, wheels, body ,diff grease, tools, battery and charger for Atomic.
In conclusion, doing it with WLtoys is will get you the same result for cheaper, but the car is less durable. (plenty of time, not much money)
DRZ will be more expensive but the car is more durable in crashes and easier to change the settings. (plenty of money, not much time)
@@BeaversHobby ok thank you do you know if 1/10 scale rwd drift cars perform better or about the same
how to mod monoshock
I did it in my 2nd episode. ruclips.net/video/QIi_DY06pJY/видео.html
Here's where the original idea came from.
ruclips.net/video/AkJMC8d1W7Q/видео.html
แล้ว3ตอนแรกอยู่ไหนครับ หาไม่เจอ
playlist นี้ครับ ruclips.net/p/PLS79G3YjA2fDY_ESGp0wk6Wom8Zrt0u6E
Hi, can u build one for me pls?
Sorry, no.
สุดยอด👍👍👍👍
I bet you can probably fix real suspension on a car I mean automobile
Haha, probably. So far I've only fixed stuck handbrake and some door cards.
@@BeaversHobby well I took suspension in college because I am a collision specialist and it is pretty much the same thing like these little rc cars that is where they got the idea from right with the suspension mimicking a real automobile suspension
@@bassman6171 Wow! Thanks for the insight. I actually tool some reference from how to tune a real car to make this too.
Buy a better Quality batterie and it should be a lot more powerful.
Well, it's not about power with RWD drift. It's about control. I even have to gear it down because it's too fast.
By the way, I'm decommissioning this car soon.
60,000kv?
6,000KV
Okay I must have been half asleep, I Was about to say some math and voltage checks needed to be done 😂
@@aaricmoreno-frank2337 No problem.
What’s the song at the end?
Slip by Geographer. It's from youtube audio library.
Dude,wtf is that angel?
You mean angle? It's needed for RWD drifting.
@@BeaversHobby yes,and im from Romania and i dont know that mutch english,sorry
@@vladalexa9425 No problem. For RWD you need very very high angle otherwise it won't drift and just spin.
Give schou Lesch schpeed
what accent it is?????????????? japanese???that's makes me goose bump.....why is that????????why?????
หากินง่ายดีเนอะ
สำเนียงไทยออก
.
Where's the file for that a4 toe diagram
Here. It's on page 23.
www.dropbox.com/s/4e7u09lsm70uuif/MIT%20Set-up%20manual.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3Wpns2hQkXcM5BF2PG22oDGho00WlTlaavE87bCyEDYr9e7YppoAxq75Y
@@BeaversHobby you sir are the best!
Nice