That ping sound when you start pedalling in your video. The part where you could here it with both cassettes and you figures out it was a faulty free hub body. What exactly was wrong ? My deore 12 speed does that since I bought it, it's been 2 years and I thought it was normal. It sounds like a loud pinging sound when loading with the pedals.
I actually like the deore / slx shifter more. I do miss the double upshifting a bit, but since the shifter doesn't immediately shift on push like XT / XTR but only halfshifts like SRAM shifters and the rest is done on release, it makes for a softer feeling shift. I like that better, and I am willing to sacrifice double shifting for it. And it cost less. I think this part is almost ALWAYS a forgotten detail that reviewers fail to mention.
@@jmard24 I consider the xt shifter a necessity with a 2x setup to avoid cross-chaining in trails with downhill sections followed by sudden, steep climbs that require you to drop a chainring. Downshifting 4 gears at once means less time wasted clicking the shifter multiple times to get to an acceptable chainline. I have a 10spd XT drivetrain except for the front derailleur and shifter. The rear shifter is ridiculously buttery smooth.
The Deore brakes biting harder than XT might be due to pad compound. Resin has a stronger initial bite while metal pads start out smooth and give consistent modulation under heavier braking. I've had problems with (smaller) dual pot resin brake pads starting to tear instead of wear under long heavy braking, but I can't say how the large four pot pad performs in that regard.
Picked up a Jenson USA Evil Wreckoning LB build with the Deore drivetrain and brakes a few months ago. Shifts flawlessly. Everything you said about the brakes rings true. Very pleased with their performance.
Thanks, some great information. Here in UK the pin holding the brake pads we call a split pin, again in UK, a cotter pin is a tapered pin, in ancient times used to hold cranks on to shafts, a favourite with millwrights. Deore is fine for me, nice to have some of the best tech filtered down to the base model. Thanks again for the video.
I went from a bike with 11 speed XT to a bike with 12 speed deore. Other than the shifter I can’t really tell a difference. I actually think the shifter isn’t as stiff but it is a slightly longer throw. Either way I am happy with the deore so far.
Great video. Love the deore. I have a full deore and an xt slx mix on another bike. They sound a bit different, and the downshift under power is slightly worse on the deore maybe, but otherwise I cannot tell the difference. Shimano really gave us a predent with the deore.
I built up a mix group hard tail a few years ago, n8000 brakes, deore clutch derailleur skx shifters that I got used and the deore crank. Worked out a treat. I had a low grade long lever Shimano brake set on that bike before the xt and apart from the Cotter pin they worked really well.
I have Deore brakes, and I actually managed to lose one of the cotter pins. I switched to using a tiny zip-tie and it's great. I think using a pocket knife and popping the zip tie is actually easier than using a pin with retaining clip, and it's 100% secure.
Running the Deore M6120 four piston brakes, they have a terrifying amount of stopping power and require some getting used to if you want to feather them properly. It is absolutely no problem to send yourself over the bars with these. Haven't experienced the brake pad rattle mentioned in this video, but will listen for it on my next ride.
This almost makes me want to switch to Deore😂 My XTR derailleur bent without any impact, the brakes have a wandering bite point and I’ve already had to bleed them 3x this season. The chain has fallen off my chainring like 3 times, and I could go on and on...
wow how unlucky people can be, I have the old m9000 complete groupset, using all four seassons, trail and commuting alike never have any problem in the last 4 years. relacing the chain and brakepads only.
@@mazditzo I have an SLX 1x11 drivetrain, been running it for years and haven't used a chain guide ever since it got installed, and I recall the chain dropping maybe once or twice as much in years.
Great vid. Not a cotter pin. In the biking world, in olden times, cotter pins used to be used to hold cranks onto the shaft. They are tapered with a threaded end and a nut to pull them tight.
I enjoyed my M6100 Deore 10-51 on my new bike for about 3 weeks of lite trails. Then it busted a rivet off the spider on the 8th cog from the smallest. My new bike is paralyzed with no 10-51 12-speed cassettes to be found. I know I can just skip that gear and ride but it’s bent about a 1/4” where the rivet popped. I can also bend it closer to shape so it will shift better but I’m waiting to hear from Shamino before I do anything.
Great review! Good job Vital MTB. There should be bolts holding brake pads instead of that cotter. Normally it doesn't look like a big problem but try to undo that fing thing on the trail in the mud. I would also like to see the color of the brake fluid after testing and see some info about chain length after some miles.
I have a Deore 3 by on an old Canyon XC bike that I'm bringing back to life. All parts on the bike are from 2013. Is it possible to upgrade to a 1 by you think? The exact specifications are Cassette: Shimano CS-HG 62 10-Spd 11-36, Crankset: Shimano Deore FC-M612, 40/30/22, Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow, Shifter: Shimano SLX SL-M670 10-Spd.
my bike has a 2014 SLX groupset... it had some odd not adjustable screw, with a 2 holes head, on the brake levers... accidentally I had the right spanner, from a celular repartir kit, so I did removed it and placed the adjust screws from an broke TX derailleur... boom! now I have perfect functional pre load adjust on my breaks 😅 also I bought the screws for my break pads on Ali Express
Running an XT shifter and XTR ball bearing jockey wheels on the derailleur will give you everything you could need at a fantastic price. I prefer the M6100 cranks and some other parts over XTR so the M6100 gets a big thumbs up from me. I have a small hack for the brakes but I won't give all my secret's away. 😎👍
I really like having the break leaver adjustment dials, the new metallic 4 piston pads, multi shift, and the lighter cassettes and 165 cranks with the steel pedal inserts myself :)
running those on the brand new bike I got myself for year-end holidays, too bad is so new that microspline qr is a pain to get new hubs for to get a second set of wheels.
IMO, the split pin for pad retention is a plus. It's very easy to round off the tiny bolt that goes there otherwise, and super easy to lose the tiny circlip, especially trailside. From the video you seemed to just yank on the pin without pressing the "feet" together first. You should always be able to remove and install the pin by hand. Press the feet together with pliers, slide it out by hand. Replace pads, slide pin in by hand and use pliers to spread the longer "foot" of the pin to secure... If they are rattling, spread the "foot" a bit more, it'll take any slack out of the system. Split pins are very secure, I would never worry about them coming out. A small fastener is less secure.
The feet were pressed together, we know how to use a cotter pin... The pin itself was bent a bit and the tolerances are very tight, making pin removal rather difficult, which is why we called it out as a weakness.
@@vitalmtb it may well have been tight, but I've never had an issue with them on any of the Shimano brakes and have swapped the bolts on my SRAM brakes to split pins after rounding the small aluminium head on one of the fasteners. What you said about peace of mind suggested that split pins were somehow less secure or strong, when the opposite is actually the case. Lots of people look to these videos for consumer advice and what you said is misleading imo. I'll take a steel split pin over an aluminium fastener any day of the week if they have the same fit and function. I know which is stronger and more secure.
@@peterrobson4929 while pin works fine you wont be getting it out without pliers to bend end straight to remove. Do I care no but the screw on SLX up is a nice "feature" you pay for.
I own SRAM AXS Shimano XTR as well as SX Eagle and 10 speed Deore. SX and Deore are pretty darn good regardless of price! Cassette weight is the biggest issue
i have the 2022 marin alpine trail 7 and it has the Shimano deore and is very clunky, anyone know why it makes a clunk noise everytime i go off a kerb or hit a rock or bump??
Sir can u help me I'm using 12 speed shimano deore xt m8100. I change my chain shimano xtr 12 speed 116 link only so is there problem in my drivetrain using that 116 link xtr 12 speed chain?
Not sure what's the deal with my deore drivetrain but I'm not a fan. I've dropped chains so often. I drop chains frequently in my easiest gear and i haven't figured out why. At first i thought it was from over lubricating my chain and it collecting debris, so i bought an xtr chain and waxed it. Now when I'm in my easiest gear i can hear the teeth of my chainring just barely getting inside the chain. Not sure what's going on but i definitely miss my SRAM SX right about now
Could of been a slightly bent derailleur you cant really see it but adjusting it could of fixed it or possibly could of been a not fitted well part or crap front chain ring
@@JXI0I I can't see it being the derailer because I'm getting chain drop off the chainring. The chain seats perfectly onto the cassette but from the top of the cassette to the chainring is where I start having issues. I really don't want to replace my chainring just to see if that'll fix the issue but I might
@nyreppin1 Its worth a try because I've not had any problems with mine at all so something must be wrong with the fitting of the chain ring on urs try take it to where u got it and let them have a look they shouldn't charge u for a problem on their behalf
Running the Deore 2021 12-spd on my Commencal Meta HT AM Race for 4 months and it's flawless, precise shifting and braking. Perhaps the penalty of the weight is the only drawback
Approximately how many kms did you get out of the two chains over the 7 month test period? I realise mileage will vary depending on conditions, but a rough idea would be good.
DISCLAIMER FOR THE VIDEO: a MASSIVE thing that people really seem to forget about with brakes is the fact that brakes are a double system based technology. one major part is the physical brake itself and how much power can be multiplied and transferred from your finger to the brakepads via hydraulic fluid. the OTHER major part is the friction that the pads can actually create from rubbing on the braking surface(the rotor). if you don't properly bed in your brakes or you get some kind of oil on the pads/rotor, you will SIGNIFICANTLY decrease braking performance. that is a major reason as to why people go from high end 250+ dollar brakes to a new system that is half the price but then they end up getting much better results. yes, its has to do with shimano being great at that "trickle down tech" but it's also a lot of the time just user error. I think all of that is super important and as a bike mechanic, i always give my customers big disclaimers that they NEED to take time to fully bed in the brakes. I always begin the bedding process for customers but i never finish it because that would take up too much of my time.
yeah, I agree. I once replaced a friend's brake pads and rode the bike for like 5 mins to bed them in at least a bit and told him that he needed to bed them in a lot more. He insisted to go on a ride immediately tho, saying "they'll bed in while we get to the trail". As you might imagine, they didn't. What came next was a horrible sound every time he brakes and very inconsistent power. After 2.5 months and having cleaned the pads and rotors twice, his brakes still feel terrible.
there are 12 speeds out back with a ride range of gearing now, so front gearing is no longer needed. when there were 2 or 3 chainrings in the front, there were only 7-10 speeds with a smaller range in the rear.
I am about to upgrade my entry level bike Rockhopper and I already have an XT shifter, I have one question, is buying XT Rear Derailleur worth it or I should stick with M6100?
I run an 11 speed Xtr derailleur and shifter..am looking to get the deore 12 Speed too but don't want to miss out on the multiple shifting with the Xtr..would that work if I combine deore with the Xtr shifter(12 Speed of course)?
@3:00 wow, I'd be dammed, that a damn expensive brakes,haha. Now I know what I'll remove from my build and just go for a shimano MT200 hydro brakes for now, haha.
I've used MT200 brakes. They're not quite powerful enough for one finger braking, but damn are they reliable. I've used mine for loaded touring, and didn't need to bleed them or realign them once in the 4 years I've had them. The lever feel of those is much better than many more expensive brakes, bite point has been extremely consistent, brake power is consistent. They're great. I dislike the stock resin pads because I keep glazing them in the winter. Put metallic pads in them, bed them in properly and it cannot get any more reliable than that.
2:00Reach adjustment still effects actuation, on these as it did on M615 & M6000, but adjusting the reach to fit a child will render the brake useless, as the actuation of the brake will be reduced, moving the lever closer to the grip results in the piston not being fully actuated, so basically this brake is only people with Paul Girlbert's hands.😀 So if you want to shred with these with short fingers it's not going to be great. Also I hope Shimano improves quality control cus all my previous brakes leaked. Multiple brakes, and a year since I returned some and still no answer, I've given up. ,But I've not tried these, but I won't pay for them, not worth it in my IMO. but I want to return to hydraulic brakes, but not these. I could not use these brakes anymore anyway cus I use Archer D1X trail, and the remote and brake clamp need to be ghosted, which is physically impossible, it's not a game, but the new brakes you show here eliminates this issue, so I could use them if I wanted to butt I dont.
we've ridden SX on a few different bikes. the YT Jeffsy (here - ruclips.net/video/wECeRKsyGSE/видео.html ) and during our budget MTB test (here - ruclips.net/video/DSYwTlth1oc/видео.html ) - it performs well enough. the cassette is heavy, requires an HG freehub body (so you can't upgrade to GX or higher which requires XD freehub body) and 11t is as small as you go compared to 10t on our Deore. there can be some slop/play in the SX rear derailleur, too. generally speaking, SX feels "cheaper" than our Deore group.
I personally really dislike brakes that bite too hard and do not like the feel of shimano brakes. my bike came with sram level brakes front and rear which is a bit weird since it is a 160mm front and 150mm rear travel with geometry nearing enduro territory but with 27.5 wheels. i upgraded to sram G2 RS in the front after the first ride cause the stopping power just wasn't there but i never felt any kind of problem with the rear brake being 2 pot callipers so i kept them and i can say that for the type of riding i'm doing and for my weight is this setup perfect. it feels like there is a good balance between front and rear brakes where i need more preasure to lock up the rear than on my friends bike with G2 RS all around and it just feels better when i'm using it. as for drive train, i run a sram NX Eagle but when the clutch in the rear diraliour gives up will i be making the irritatingly big upgrade to GX casette, diraliour and shifter to get the extra big range 52-10T but that is hopefully within a couple years time
Have the 12s deore on my ripmo AF. Bikes 3 months old, shifting horribly. Bike shop said a new chain, cassette and cable are needed. No warranty. Bikes immaculate, cleaned and lubed and taken care of every step. And yeah I know how to shift. Disappointing. Awesome bike though👍
Have a mix of deore, slx, and xt on my bike. Deore brakes are great until it gets cold. Been riding in the low 30s to 20s and have to pump the levers to get them to do anything on the trail. Big time bummer.
There's a thread on mtbr about alternative mineral based hydraulic oils for shimano brakes. There are a few that retain lower viscosity at sub freezing temps.
Exactly what I was thinking. Advent X is a no brainer. And it's not a pain in the ass to adjust because the gear spacing is wider and there can be more margin for error. But nowadays, everybody is focused on the big players in the drivetrain market who are sram and shimano
why not? all these parts can be ordered to local bike shops and are available at retailers online. it may be hard to find the whole group in one place, but you can definitely buy the parts.
I run m6100 and m6000 shift levers on XT brakes. The XT levers were pants and have a shorter lever reach than the deore stuff. My 2 piston depre brakes were more powerful than the XT, both run metal shimano pads. Ridiculous, wish I'd never bought into the shimano XT.
I disagree with this review. Deore is the best "midrange" drivetrain out there. But almost all people who are looking at budget drivetrains wouldn't consider sub 300 dollars "value". Look no further than the microshift advent x. Although you aren't getting the shimano brand name, the drivetrain is very reliable and only 150 dollars for everything excluding cranks. Most beginners won't need 12 speeds, and they also won't need the pain in the ass alignment of finicky 12 speed drivetrains.
What drivetrain do you run on your MTB?
Timestamps
0:00 Intro
:55 - Cassette, Rear Derailleur, Cranks Overview
1:35 - Shifter Overview
1:50 - 4-Piston Brakes Overview
2:18 - Deore Weight and Price vs. XTR
3:01 - On-Trail Performance
4:33 - Brake Pads
5:11 - POWERFUL Brakes
6:00 - Tear Down of Parts
7:49 - Conclusion
What’s the name of the bottle cage you are running ? Looks amazing with the Lyrik !
I have a 12 speed deore and it’s been great.
Shimano XT:
-Shifter
-Derailleur
AbsoluteBlack 32t oval
SRAM:
-GX Eagle casette (50t)
-GX-crankset
XX1 chain (gold)
That ping sound when you start pedalling in your video. The part where you could here it with both cassettes and you figures out it was a faulty free hub body. What exactly was wrong ? My deore 12 speed does that since I bought it, it's been 2 years and I thought it was normal. It sounds like a loud pinging sound when loading with the pedals.
You guys have just some of the best MTB content on the planet. The way you present it is great. Super sick review.
Wow, thanks!
Simple fix. Run an xt shifter. it still bothers me that manufactures spec high end rear mechs with lower end shifters.
Spot on, we totally agree!
I actually like the deore / slx shifter more. I do miss the double upshifting a bit, but since the shifter doesn't immediately shift on push like XT / XTR but only halfshifts like SRAM shifters and the rest is done on release, it makes for a softer feeling shift. I like that better, and I am willing to sacrifice double shifting for it. And it cost less. I think this part is almost ALWAYS a forgotten detail that reviewers fail to mention.
@@TeamCykelhold I double shift down the cassete alot. best thing since sliced bread for me. you owe me a dollar
@@jmard24 I consider the xt shifter a necessity with a 2x setup to avoid cross-chaining in trails with downhill sections followed by sudden, steep climbs that require you to drop a chainring. Downshifting 4 gears at once means less time wasted clicking the shifter multiple times to get to an acceptable chainline. I have a 10spd XT drivetrain except for the front derailleur and shifter. The rear shifter is ridiculously buttery smooth.
Couldn’t have said it better myself! I used to work as a manager at a LBS and would tell people frequently that exact same sentiment.
Just bought my second Deore equipped bike. First 10 speed on my Wo, now 12 speed on my Ripmo AF. No issues. Good price, good stuff.
As a person who moved from Alivio 9s, this groupset will always bring a smile to my face in every shifting.
Using a small tap you can convert to a retaining bolt in five minutes. Pair with an xt shifter gets you all the functionality.
Thank you for them long term reviews Vital MTB, it's the only way that makes sense and is well appreciated.
The Deore brakes biting harder than XT might be due to pad compound. Resin has a stronger initial bite while metal pads start out smooth and give consistent modulation under heavier braking.
I've had problems with (smaller) dual pot resin brake pads starting to tear instead of wear under long heavy braking, but I can't say how the large four pot pad performs in that regard.
I've been running the SLX 4 Pot and they seem to be getting better as I go. Monster stopping power.
I use metal on the front resin on the back and I might try ceramic next
Picked up a Jenson USA Evil Wreckoning LB build with the Deore drivetrain and brakes a few months ago. Shifts flawlessly. Everything you said about the brakes rings true. Very pleased with their performance.
Just installed the Deore 4 pot brakes. Glad to hear the positive review
Thanks, some great information. Here in UK the pin holding the brake pads we call a split pin, again in UK, a cotter pin is a tapered pin, in ancient times used to hold cranks on to shafts, a favourite with millwrights.
Deore is fine for me, nice to have some of the best tech filtered down to the base model.
Thanks again for the video.
I went from a bike with 11 speed XT to a bike with 12 speed deore. Other than the shifter I can’t really tell a difference. I actually think the shifter isn’t as stiff but it is a slightly longer throw. Either way I am happy with the deore so far.
Good job Shimano! I was seriously expecting some hidden caveats, but nope. This is pretty legit, consider me impressed.
Great video. Love the deore. I have a full deore and an xt slx mix on another bike. They sound a bit different, and the downshift under power is slightly worse on the deore maybe, but otherwise I cannot tell the difference. Shimano really gave us a predent with the deore.
I built up a mix group hard tail a few years ago, n8000 brakes, deore clutch derailleur skx shifters that I got used and the deore crank. Worked out a treat. I had a low grade long lever Shimano brake set on that bike before the xt and apart from the Cotter pin they worked really well.
Shimano works no matter how much shit you put in it, no matter how much mud the chain eat. It always work and shifts well.
So does my microshift advent🤘
@Natan Lorenzi sram over GX seams to work ok but price is just wrong.
Correctly installed deore works amazing
that is bloody correct mate my deore got covered in shit and didn't even notice the dirt!
@@Swainmtb1 of course. I live in UK. We ride mud pretty much all the time
@@MartinTeerly yep me too
Just gotten one set, finish setup today, cant wait to try
I have Deore brakes, and I actually managed to lose one of the cotter pins. I switched to using a tiny zip-tie and it's great. I think using a pocket knife and popping the zip tie is actually easier than using a pin with retaining clip, and it's 100% secure.
Running the Deore M6120 four piston brakes, they have a terrifying amount of stopping power and require some getting used to if you want to feather them properly. It is absolutely no problem to send yourself over the bars with these. Haven't experienced the brake pad rattle mentioned in this video, but will listen for it on my next ride.
If you can find some metallic pads, they’re the less terrifying between the two.
@@dav31078 And they are much, much harder to glaze over.
This almost makes me want to switch to Deore😂 My XTR derailleur bent without any impact, the brakes have a wandering bite point and I’ve already had to bleed them 3x this season. The chain has fallen off my chainring like 3 times, and I could go on and on...
wow how unlucky people can be, I have the old m9000 complete groupset, using all four seassons, trail and commuting alike never have any problem in the last 4 years. relacing the chain and brakepads only.
@@mazditzo I have an SLX 1x11 drivetrain, been running it for years and haven't used a chain guide ever since it got installed, and I recall the chain dropping maybe once or twice as much in years.
I have used this groupset on my polygon siskiu d5 bike ... steady and comfortable to use in all terrains
Thanks for the review!!! I think I’ll buy the $4400 Deore Ripmo instead of the $5900 Xt version! 👍
Great vid. Not a cotter pin. In the biking world, in olden times, cotter pins used to be used to hold cranks onto the shaft. They are tapered with a threaded end and a nut to pull them tight.
solid review, and great presentation..thanks!
Amazing review- informative, fun, interesting. Thank you and keep it up!!
Snapped an XT 12 Sp derailleur clean in half on my eBike. Deore is great news if they are design prone to this sort of damage.
I enjoyed my M6100 Deore 10-51 on my new bike for about 3 weeks of lite trails. Then it busted a rivet off the spider on the 8th cog from the smallest. My new bike is paralyzed with no 10-51 12-speed cassettes to be found. I know I can just skip that gear and ride but it’s bent about a 1/4” where the rivet popped. I can also bend it closer to shape so it will shift better but I’m waiting to hear from Shamino before I do anything.
I have the deore group set, I did change the cranks for xt when I went from 170 to 165, other than that, it has been a solid performer.
awesome video - great content and no BS. thanks
Great review! Good job Vital MTB.
There should be bolts holding brake pads instead of that cotter. Normally it doesn't look like a big problem but try to undo that fing thing on the trail in the mud. I would also like to see the color of the brake fluid after testing and see some info about chain length after some miles.
I have a Deore 3 by on an old Canyon XC bike that I'm bringing back to life. All parts on the bike are from 2013. Is it possible to upgrade to a 1 by you think?
The exact specifications are Cassette: Shimano CS-HG 62 10-Spd 11-36, Crankset: Shimano Deore FC-M612, 40/30/22, Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow, Shifter: Shimano SLX SL-M670 10-Spd.
11 Speed Xt/xtr/Garbaruk mix. My Gabaruk cassette weights 283gr, gives u max. 48 teeths and costs 200€.
Thats what l use other than mine is a 50 tooth. I really want to try a full groupset to see how really good shifting is
Good info, good review. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Nice review. Is the Shimano’s brake pad rattle an issue across the range? Seems to come up a lot.
it generally seems to be.
the finned pads have it worse though
my bike has a 2014 SLX groupset... it had some odd not adjustable screw, with a 2 holes head, on the brake levers... accidentally I had the right spanner, from a celular repartir kit, so I did removed it and placed the adjust screws from an broke TX derailleur... boom! now I have perfect functional pre load adjust on my breaks 😅
also I bought the screws for my break pads on Ali Express
My new bike came with this , it's been working great for 750 mi . So far
After having a non clutched rear derailleur and double chainring cranks for a few months.
I prefer a narrow wide and a clutched derailleur these days.
Slx seems to really popular with guys building their own bikes to a budget but still conscious of quality
Running an XT shifter and XTR ball bearing jockey wheels on the derailleur will give you everything you could need at a fantastic price.
I prefer the M6100 cranks and some other parts over XTR so the M6100 gets a big thumbs up from me.
I have a small hack for the brakes but I won't give all my secret's away.
😎👍
What’s the name of the bottle cage you are running ? 😄 looks amazing with the Lyrik
What XT XTR combination you used for your dream build, I recently started building mine and went with XT throughout.
El mejor siempre firme🚴
I really like having the break leaver adjustment dials, the new metallic 4 piston pads, multi shift, and the lighter cassettes and 165 cranks with the steel pedal inserts myself :)
Hi where is the wet side to order the Shimano Groupset M6100.
In my opinion it would be better if the deore casett fits on the stadart shimano freehub body but I think it is the best value drivetrain.
Great content again, would you say the deore is the new zee? 😁
ha, could be!
running those on the brand new bike I got myself for year-end holidays, too bad is so new that microspline qr is a pain to get new hubs for to get a second set of wheels.
You could always get a third party cassette, I got the xt group with a sun race cassette
I love Shimano Deore, you get the most with a low price
IMO, the split pin for pad retention is a plus. It's very easy to round off the tiny bolt that goes there otherwise, and super easy to lose the tiny circlip, especially trailside.
From the video you seemed to just yank on the pin without pressing the "feet" together first. You should always be able to remove and install the pin by hand. Press the feet together with pliers, slide it out by hand. Replace pads, slide pin in by hand and use pliers to spread the longer "foot" of the pin to secure... If they are rattling, spread the "foot" a bit more, it'll take any slack out of the system.
Split pins are very secure, I would never worry about them coming out. A small fastener is less secure.
The feet were pressed together, we know how to use a cotter pin... The pin itself was bent a bit and the tolerances are very tight, making pin removal rather difficult, which is why we called it out as a weakness.
@@vitalmtb it may well have been tight, but I've never had an issue with them on any of the Shimano brakes and have swapped the bolts on my SRAM brakes to split pins after rounding the small aluminium head on one of the fasteners.
What you said about peace of mind suggested that split pins were somehow less secure or strong, when the opposite is actually the case. Lots of people look to these videos for consumer advice and what you said is misleading imo.
I'll take a steel split pin over an aluminium fastener any day of the week if they have the same fit and function. I know which is stronger and more secure.
@@peterrobson4929 while pin works fine you wont be getting it out without pliers to bend end straight to remove. Do I care no but the screw on SLX up is a nice "feature" you pay for.
I own SRAM AXS Shimano XTR as well as SX Eagle and 10 speed Deore. SX and Deore are pretty darn good regardless of price! Cassette weight is the biggest issue
Good review!
i have the 2022 marin alpine trail 7 and it has the Shimano deore and is very clunky, anyone know why it makes a clunk noise everytime i go off a kerb or hit a rock or bump??
Sir can u help me I'm using 12 speed shimano deore xt m8100. I change my chain shimano xtr 12 speed 116 link only so is there problem in my drivetrain using that 116 link xtr 12 speed chain?
Not sure what's the deal with my deore drivetrain but I'm not a fan. I've dropped chains so often. I drop chains frequently in my easiest gear and i haven't figured out why. At first i thought it was from over lubricating my chain and it collecting debris, so i bought an xtr chain and waxed it. Now when I'm in my easiest gear i can hear the teeth of my chainring just barely getting inside the chain. Not sure what's going on but i definitely miss my SRAM SX right about now
Could of been a slightly bent derailleur you cant really see it but adjusting it could of fixed it or possibly could of been a not fitted well part or crap front chain ring
@@JXI0I I can't see it being the derailer because I'm getting chain drop off the chainring. The chain seats perfectly onto the cassette but from the top of the cassette to the chainring is where I start having issues. I really don't want to replace my chainring just to see if that'll fix the issue but I might
@nyreppin1 Its worth a try because I've not had any problems with mine at all so something must be wrong with the fitting of the chain ring on urs try take it to where u got it and let them have a look they shouldn't charge u for a problem on their behalf
Great video
Running the Deore 2021 12-spd on my Commencal Meta HT AM Race for 4 months and it's flawless, precise shifting and braking. Perhaps the penalty of the weight is the only drawback
Approximately how many kms did you get out of the two chains over the 7 month test period? I realise mileage will vary depending on conditions, but a rough idea would be good.
Looking back on it, crunching the numbers, we were well over 1,000 miles, closer to 2,000.
How about a lomg term review on that Scout?
Is it possible to run this Derailleure on an 11 speed Cassette?
Wat about microshift Advent x?
DISCLAIMER FOR THE VIDEO: a MASSIVE thing that people really seem to forget about with brakes is the fact that brakes are a double system based technology. one major part is the physical brake itself and how much power can be multiplied and transferred from your finger to the brakepads via hydraulic fluid. the OTHER major part is the friction that the pads can actually create from rubbing on the braking surface(the rotor). if you don't properly bed in your brakes or you get some kind of oil on the pads/rotor, you will SIGNIFICANTLY decrease braking performance. that is a major reason as to why people go from high end 250+ dollar brakes to a new system that is half the price but then they end up getting much better results. yes, its has to do with shimano being great at that "trickle down tech" but it's also a lot of the time just user error.
I think all of that is super important and as a bike mechanic, i always give my customers big disclaimers that they NEED to take time to fully bed in the brakes. I always begin the bedding process for customers but i never finish it because that would take up too much of my time.
yeah, I agree. I once replaced a friend's brake pads and rode the bike for like 5 mins to bed them in at least a bit and told him that he needed to bed them in a lot more. He insisted to go on a ride immediately tho, saying "they'll bed in while we get to the trail". As you might imagine, they didn't. What came next was a horrible sound every time he brakes and very inconsistent power. After 2.5 months and having cleaned the pads and rotors twice, his brakes still feel terrible.
Hi. I am not into bikes.. but why there are no front gears?
there are 12 speeds out back with a ride range of gearing now, so front gearing is no longer needed. when there were 2 or 3 chainrings in the front, there were only 7-10 speeds with a smaller range in the rear.
@@vitalmtb thank you for your answer. Keep up the great content 👍🏻
Pro tip: you can use a xt or xtr shifter on the deore to get the double click
of course.
I am about to upgrade my entry level bike Rockhopper and I already have an XT shifter, I have one question, is buying XT Rear Derailleur worth it or I should stick with M6100?
get a bike with a rear through axle first lmao
I run an 11 speed Xtr derailleur and shifter..am looking to get the deore 12 Speed too but don't want to miss out on the multiple shifting with the Xtr..would that work if I combine deore with the Xtr shifter(12 Speed of course)?
yep, they're all cross-compatible, so yep. deore group w/ XT shifter is a super-homerun. XT also has double-shift
@@vitalmtb cool. Thanks for replying ☺️
@3:00 wow, I'd be dammed, that a damn expensive brakes,haha. Now I know what I'll remove from my build and just go for a shimano MT200 hydro brakes for now, haha.
I've used MT200 brakes. They're not quite powerful enough for one finger braking, but damn are they reliable. I've used mine for loaded touring, and didn't need to bleed them or realign them once in the 4 years I've had them.
The lever feel of those is much better than many more expensive brakes, bite point has been extremely consistent, brake power is consistent. They're great. I dislike the stock resin pads because I keep glazing them in the winter. Put metallic pads in them, bed them in properly and it cannot get any more reliable than that.
2:00Reach adjustment still effects actuation, on these as it did on M615 & M6000, but adjusting the reach to fit a child will render the brake useless, as the actuation of the brake will be reduced, moving the lever closer to the grip results in the piston not being fully actuated, so basically this brake is only people with Paul Girlbert's hands.😀 So if you want to shred with these with short fingers it's not going to be great.
Also I hope Shimano improves quality control cus all my previous brakes leaked. Multiple brakes, and a year since I returned some and still no answer, I've given up.
,But I've not tried these, but I won't pay for them, not worth it in my IMO. but I want to return to hydraulic brakes, but not these.
I could not use these brakes anymore anyway cus I use Archer D1X trail, and the remote and brake clamp need to be ghosted, which is physically impossible, it's not a game, but the new brakes you show here eliminates this issue, so I could use them if I wanted to butt I dont.
Protip: The XT shifter pod works with the Deore derailleur ;)
Aside from weight what am I missing if I choose deore RD over XT rd, because I am not sure which one to choose
What about slx?
Perfect would love a review on srams cheapest drivetrain. The sx thanks
we've ridden SX on a few different bikes. the YT Jeffsy (here - ruclips.net/video/wECeRKsyGSE/видео.html ) and during our budget MTB test (here - ruclips.net/video/DSYwTlth1oc/видео.html ) - it performs well enough. the cassette is heavy, requires an HG freehub body (so you can't upgrade to GX or higher which requires XD freehub body) and 11t is as small as you go compared to 10t on our Deore. there can be some slop/play in the SX rear derailleur, too. generally speaking, SX feels "cheaper" than our Deore group.
@@vitalmtb ok cheers for the help
I personally really dislike brakes that bite too hard and do not like the feel of shimano brakes.
my bike came with sram level brakes front and rear which is a bit weird since it is a 160mm front and 150mm rear travel with geometry nearing enduro territory but with 27.5 wheels. i upgraded to sram G2 RS in the front after the first ride cause the stopping power just wasn't there but i never felt any kind of problem with the rear brake being 2 pot callipers so i kept them and i can say that for the type of riding i'm doing and for my weight is this setup perfect. it feels like there is a good balance between front and rear brakes where i need more preasure to lock up the rear than on my friends bike with G2 RS all around and it just feels better when i'm using it.
as for drive train, i run a sram NX Eagle but when the clutch in the rear diraliour gives up will i be making the irritatingly big upgrade to GX casette, diraliour and shifter to get the extra big range 52-10T but that is hopefully within a couple years time
I put the GX stuff on my Scott and it works great
Where can I buy this groupset at its best price?????? Help :'v
MTB , I love reasonable price and durability because we really ride on sandy, muddy, stoney . 👌
I've only heard good things and for the price it is amazing.
Have the 12s deore on my ripmo AF. Bikes 3 months old, shifting horribly. Bike shop said a new chain, cassette and cable are needed. No warranty. Bikes immaculate, cleaned and lubed and taken care of every step. And yeah I know how to shift. Disappointing. Awesome bike though👍
Have a mix of deore, slx, and xt on my bike. Deore brakes are great until it gets cold. Been riding in the low 30s to 20s and have to pump the levers to get them to do anything on the trail. Big time bummer.
That would be an issue with any brake that uses mineral oil instead of DOT 4/5. All of Shimano's brakes run mineral oil.
There's a thread on mtbr about alternative mineral based hydraulic oils for shimano brakes. There are a few that retain lower viscosity at sub freezing temps.
@@doncrescas good to know. I'll have to search for that.
Im a 30 year mtber. My main bike has Deore 10 speed. Works pretty much flawlessly. Not much difference at all compared to my XT and SLX bikes.
I feel like the Microshift advent X would be a better option for a budget rider
Exactly what I was thinking. Advent X is a no brainer. And it's not a pain in the ass to adjust because the gear spacing is wider and there can be more margin for error. But nowadays, everybody is focused on the big players in the drivetrain market who are sram and shimano
Mine is brand new and won't shift up
best budget drivetrain money cannot buy brand new
why not? all these parts can be ordered to local bike shops and are available at retailers online. it may be hard to find the whole group in one place, but you can definitely buy the parts.
I run m6100 and m6000 shift levers on XT brakes. The XT levers were pants and have a shorter lever reach than the deore stuff. My 2 piston depre brakes were more powerful than the XT, both run metal shimano pads. Ridiculous, wish I'd never bought into the shimano XT.
I just need to know, is deore all that good compared to stuff like XT? Any areas where I should spend more or less?
To us, the one spot to spend the extra money is for the XT shifter for faster shifting and the Multi-Release system. Beyond that, it is just grams.
Our aim is to reach 300 subs before new year!!
Nope, Deore Shadow+ 12s of my '21 Fathom 2 has double shift technology.
Shimano Deore is the best.
I have my deore 11 speed , 11-51t
In my opinion Deores clutchs seems to be better then nx
Better than pinkbike
If Deore is entry level, what is Altus, Acera and Tourney? lol
I consider Deore mid range overall, but entry level for true MTB use.
Also, you've forgotten Alivio.
I disagree with this review. Deore is the best "midrange" drivetrain out there. But almost all people who are looking at budget drivetrains wouldn't consider sub 300 dollars "value".
Look no further than the microshift advent x. Although you aren't getting the shimano brand name, the drivetrain is very reliable and only 150 dollars for everything excluding cranks.
Most beginners won't need 12 speeds, and they also won't need the pain in the ass alignment of finicky 12 speed drivetrains.
that's semi false the shimano shifter is either spec'd with plain shifter or the special I-Spec EV
available in Australia in 2024
So $1000 more for 600 grams??? Wtf
Perpetual brake draggers, LOL, truth.
Advent x is better
this blows sram sx out of the water