This is a very helpful-- I've bought a mountainside of land; steep pretty much everywhere with an amazing rounded summit. I'm exploring the many options for building my near summit cabin, storage sheds, outbuildings, etc. I know full well how much work and effort goes into doing this kind of video, and it's really appreciated it-- very grateful for your insights, advice, experience, and knowledge you've shared here.
Just be selective keep those root systems close to hold your soil. Mud slides are awful! Hope you build your dream home and can do it with with what your land provides👍
I bought a Hudson hunter/ Sawyer several years ago. It was a pain to assemble. I got the aluminum track. I set it up to roll the mill off the track to get a longer cut. My tractor is an antique, I use the bucket and chains to handle logs. I'm building tiny timber frames, slower than anticipated. Thanks for sharing your ingenuity!
Thanks for showing me your system - I'm just looking into all the different types of mills right now and it's great to know the things that you do. Cheers.
Thank you for the informative video. I enjoy watching sawmill videos because I will purchase a mill in the next year. Really appreciate the heads up pertaining to the ups and downs of the equipment.
Very useful information Steve. I'm building a Timber Frame cabin for my wife and I to retire to. It's taken 6 years so far and I have always had trouble getting wood milled for the project. I finally bought a Woodlands Mills HM122. Got an older Massey Ferguson tractor last year so I think I will finally have what I need to be more self reliant. Absolutely beautiful property you have there Bud and a beautiful life with your family. Good luck with all your projects. Tim
Hi, at first I thought maybe this video would be so-so, but I kept watching. You did a good job of explaining your set up. I thought the big pointers at the end, using generous lube and watching belt tensioner and the third supplier winch were just excellent. Good job.
I really enjoyed your video. I think that this set up with cementing the rails and log holders in place would be much more stable and reliable over time. No need to level or adjust a typical metal deck. I guess you sacrifice portability but I don't think it's a big deal. Whenever I build a mill, it's going to be like this. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment, don't forget to make your track long enough to clear, on both ends, the length of log you ultimately intend to mill. I made mine 24 feet intending to mill 22 foot Logs. Realistically I can easily mill 20 footers and 21 footers with a bit of a struggle. Lol... I wish I could afford a D & L Swing Blade! That would be the way to go!
Thanks. I wish I could afford a swing blade from D&L, they look awesome and even less log moving then how I do it! But, since I cannot, I try to make the best with what I can afford.
Wow awesome buddy, we’ll done. I have a small stand of white pine my father and his brother planted about 80 years ago and the last 15 years been wondering how best to mill it. Your idea has really got me thinking thanks again. Cheers from New Zealand
Thanks for the comment; glad you liked it. If you haven't already, make sure you check out some of my vids of the A-Frame cabin I built with lumber milled on my sawmill.
Great way to saw on a budget. I think many portable mills are too expensive. Great ingenuity and making the most of your situation. My uncle had a Hudson and had many of the problems you where you fixed. Nice sawing.
Thanks for the comment. Not sure my trees are all that great but I was able to mill all the boards and timbers for my timber A frame cabin! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for sharing your method of cutting longer logs than most of these little sawmills offered as part of length of track goes. I just have to decide which brand to buy because I don't want to help support any of the Chinese military by buying Chinese made products anymore. I measure from the center of the log down to the bottom of my Mill. That way I know I'm getting even cuts through the wood. I don't worry about the bottom or the top I just make sure the middle is centered at each end and make sure supports are all level underneath. I fill in the gaps underneath the long log with different size blocks. I never thought about cutting it at the very bottom like that to get a thick cant.
Nice. I like the chocks, it would be interesting ti have a hydraulic jake under one for adjustments but certainly not necesary. And, if you cut through a wood chock, no big deal. Happy milling.
If you used an old car jack screw type under the chocks or right next to the chocks you could level the log much quicker. I like your idea of leaving one side of the log rounded to fit the chocks. Great video.
For this setup I tend to think that's a great idea, maybe go with a hydraulic floor jack, makes less effortless. But when not in use take that jacks and put inside the shed to keep dry.
Great INFORMATION we plan to build a saw with a 30' trailor frame we like the way u used curved blocks and also the way You cut piece after piece neat. John M. in Milo Maine
Thanks, several comments have come in about using a scisor jake for one of the piers, i was thinking of a camper stabalizer, and using an impact gun to spin it and adjusr the position of the log relative to the othee end very easily. Happy milling.
This was a great video. Too often creators fill their video with too much verbage and way too much footage that isn't necessary. You sir made a video that was lengthy, but left me with wanting more. Congratulations for an awesome video. I saw you at 9:10 pounding on something with a hammer and I wanted to know what you were doing. Regardless, after hearing you talk about Hudson Mills I was super excited. I've been looking at the other brand that doesn't have more economical versions as Hudson does. Well I could go on and on about your video. The tips and tricks at the end was great. Well put together sir. I may just unlike the video so I could like it all over again. Thank you!
The Simpson Strongtie company makes post bases which have a threaded adjustable base plate. I like your idea of the permanent bed, but I'd put in a set of these about every 6 feet and make a captured sliding plate with a lock knob, and a few places where I could flip up a 90° arm and flip a cant to square easily. Something to make a cam dog system.
Good video! Was looking for an easier way to cut boards on my mill. The dogs and supports are time consuming, going to try your saddle method tomorrow.
How much wood have you stacked up? You letting them air dry correct. It’s very interesting I’m just planning on building one and I’m glad I watched your post!!!
At this point we only have a few 1x8s stacked up. We used everything else we milled to construct the shed and then convert it into a cabin last fall. We constructed the building with wet wood, as is a timber frame supposed to be constructed, though out of necessity we dried it out too quickly though there are still no visible signs of checking. We have about 4 cords of off cuts and rounds stacked waiting to be split for future fire wood. Thanks for the comment.
Interesting video. You probably mentioned it somewhere along in your videos, but where are you located generally, and what species of trees are you milling? Thanks
Hi Steve, nice video on the saw mill. I plan to get one. However I have been a carpenter since I got out of High School in 1976 and I would use "easy off" oven cleaner to clean the pitch off my blades when sawing Pine....hope this helps you in cleaning your blades and machine. I'm thinking maybe pouring a solid slab of concrete between the rails so I can support the log anywhere...
Yes on the slab. I have run into trouble wanting to run logs just slightly shorter than my piers are appart. With this system it is also difficult to mill smaller logs because the weight of the log is the primary force keeping it in place. If I could get any mill I wanted I would get a swing blade but that is deffinately out of my budget currently. If I had to do the mill over I would build a shed with rails and invert the mill to hang from the shed removing the rails on the ground. Thanks for watching.
I clicked on this video once before and enjoyed it .i love the simplicity of your log cutter ..was wondering if you bought the meconizum from hudson and installed your own track? also how many Hp is that motor ?
Hello, thanks for watching. I purchased the saw caraige from a hudaon dealer in wisconsin. It was a demo model and had no track included in the sale. I constructed the rails myself from angle iron pieces and cemented them into the ground. The saw has an 8 horse motor. Glad to hear you enjoyed the video.
Were the shrouds a problem. That's kind of wicked if you would slip, or miss step. Yes that is a different way of cutting, but if your happy that's all that matters. Thanks for sharing. Iowa is watching. :) 24 degrees
I wonder if you could use bottle Jack's on each end to raise each end and maybe modifying the tops of the jack , just a thought then you could be closer to the wood without having to get on and off the tractor 🚜.
Yeah, i think i would only need one jack on the thinner end of the tree. I have a scisor jack to try it but it seems easier so far to use wood blocks. Thanks for watching.
The band wheels usually have a tire or some friction material to keep the blade from slipping and not take the corners off the teeth. Just like a truck tire that has been parked a long time develops a flat spot, the band wheels are under compression only on one half during storage and take a temporary set. This will lead to some vibration on initial running that may take hours to work out. Just because the saw will still cut with lopsided wheels is no reason you should avoid effective startup and shutdown procedures. Shutdown is particularly tempting, light is getting dim and there is one last board so shutdown becomes the kill switch. Then there is the big storm and it will be almost a month before sawing resumes. An overnight shutdown is no big deal, longer is a bigger deal.
Smart…. Could put a couple stands beside to sit the cuts on and lift over it. Looks like more than enough tractor space. Then hall off to avoid carrying your log to the waste cut pile. I’m surprised the bandsaw blade didn’t get pinched with the 8” deep cut. That’s great if it works…
The strength of the wood directly in front of the teeth hold the weight for the blade to keep cutting. No going backwards though, have to finish the cut once in it. Thanks for the comment.
I like your idea of the rails cemented down and the extra length you get from it. Also just a thought when you said there was problems with winch, blades wearing out, and needing lots of water...wondering if making the bottom cut with all the weight of the log on the blade could be stressing things and causing those issues?
I thought that about the deep bottom cut also but whenever I stopped the cut in the log the blade was still able to back up several inches inside the kerf. I think the kerf cut by the offset teeth is a bit wider than the blade itself. I do however notice the blade get pinched at the very end of the cut when I collapse the kerf by cutting out the end of the log before the majority of the blade exits behind the teeth. Thanks for watching.
Love your video. I did a little sawmill work on WMizer. I like your idea on few turns on long logs I might suggest in finding cut height on each end if log u measure from heart center up and down as to target a beam with heart center in middle of beam. Maybe more important on walnut or cherry but I think it gives a better look to surface grain pattern in finished if heart is centered. Maybe less curvature upon beam drying Great job.
This is an excellent setup for a hobby or farmer who just cuts for personal use once in a while. I looked up the hudson hunter and it seems quite affordable, but how were you able to order without track and use your own, or did you just have to discard the track from the manufacturer? I am thinking about setting up on a cheap ex-mobile home frame type trailer which can be had around my area very cheap occasionally thoughts?
Great question. I located my bandsaw at the begginning of the pandemic from a dealer that also owned a grocery store. The model i purchased was actualy his demo model and thus why no track was included. When i went to get it they had to get it down off the frozen food sectiion. Probably work well on a trailer but may be too high to load logs easily or push carraige. Thanks for watching.
Cool, thanks for making the video. I'm surprised that the saw doesn't get pinched by the heavy weight of the log when you make the bottom cut. Have you set the teeth in some special way?
The kerf stays open long enough from the strength of the wood for the blade to pass through behind the cut. All bandsaw blades have offset teeth so the kerf is actually thicker than the blade. The only location the blade gets pinched is at the end of the cut when the teeth have no more wood to cut and the blade is still in the log as the kerf collapses. I can see and feel this happening as the blade exits the log but Ive never had any issues with it comming out as it is pinched. Thanks for watching.
You screwed up just right👍 getting shaving's on the tracks is a pain! At least you have some spread. And the extra width is nice! No added trimming is a plus👍 you don't need much to make good lumber just a good set up and a little planning. Great job!👍🇺🇸
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 have you thought about making an "L" shaped stop, you could stand it up while tilting the forks and keep the log from going further than you'd like when your setting up the side cuts?
Yeah, something like that would help but may obstruct the carriage on the tracks so then would have to be moveable. I think the next thing i will work on is using a camper stabilizer for one of the piers to easily level the log.
I will put the gardes back on before I mill again. And just fyi, the blade comming off is not terrible at all. It is not actually spinning that fast and as soon as it comes of it binds in the guides or the carriage and stops spinning. Thanks for watching.
I like what you are doing. With a bit more thought you could improve wood recovery, protect your eyes from sawdust, milling and wind could cause you big problems, sooner or later it will bite you. I hope it never happens. An old miller.☺
Thanks for the comment. Some of the cuts are slabs that i use for other projects or turn into dimensional lumber but i also need firewood so i dont worry too much about maximizing the tree for dimensional lumber.
Hi Johansen; I have a question about the lube. You brought up the difficulty with getting enough lube on the saw and you mentioned water and pinesol as lubricants. When you add soap, how much do you add to water to get a good lube? I enjoyed your video and the method you use to saw the logs. I wondered why the millers removed the boards with every cut versus leaving them in place. I'm glad that you proved the value in making multiple cuts without rolling the log. At 75 years old, I can't see myself rolling the log 3 times before making a money cut so your method looks very sensible to me. Thanks for making the video, I enjoyed it more than the ones that spend a lot of time showing minutia. You did a good job! - Jim Potter
Thanks for the comment. I ussually add only about a tablespoon of pinesol per gallon of water. It is not necesary but does help a little to cut down the sap especially if the logs have recently been milled. I also like the smell so it is a little treat while milling. To my understanding traditional milling makes a complete cant, by rolling the log 3 times, to ensure perpendicular sides and give a good, flat, footing to sit on their flat deck and have a nice square corner to secure the cant with dogs. My style of milling also has a limit to the size of cant I can form because my second cut, being the bottom of the slab before rolling, can only be as large as the depth of my mill at about 8 inches. If I rolled it before making that cut I would just be cutting of scrap from the top. With my method I ussually take off a couple 1.5 inch slabs before getting making my cant as an 8 inch slab. This is fine for me because I have plenty of use for these slabs as decking and even fire wood if ultimately unusable. I guess I could have just said that millers paid for the log and want to make the most lumber possible. :)
Hello, first you have to remove the 2 blade guards, 2 bolts each. In the video you viewed they were already off. After that there is a blade tensioner, 1 bolt, that needs to be loosened to allow the blade to come off. Thats it. It is designed for the wheels to be held from one side of the blade so the blade can just slide off once loosened. Thanks for the comment.
You are just like I am I am proud to Subscribe to your channel as I am just like you are I make everything I own and will never buy as they say the good stuff, Mine does not look like a cady but just a chevy and I am as You are, Happy with what you built and it is much Better then the Cady's Heheheheh Good Luck and God Bless see you on line!
12:54 It looks like it would be easier to do your 90 degree turn right here on the forks. You could rotate your forks back (tips up) as far as it would go. Then in that position manually turn the log against the right angle back plate. You would then probably have to use some kind of clamp to hold it against the vertical so it doesn't roll forward again as you level the forks. Then with forks level, drive up and set it down on your V-blocks. Do the little bit of adjustment left on the V-blocks as you set it down or just after you set it down. Seems easier than trying to tip forward onto the V-blocks and wrestle it to 90 degrees there.
I tried that exact idea first, unfortunately the distance from my front tires to the back guard of my forks is not far enough for my front wheels to avoid driving on the tracks and destroying them. If i had made my tracks narrower it may have worked. Thanks for watching.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 How about building a platform that fits over the tracks to protect them from the front tires while you position the log? It could then just be flipped off to the side while you mill that log.
If buying a bandsaw brand doesnt really matter. Determine the features you need/ desire and purchase the brand that gives you the best value. If i had to do it all over again i would probably invest in a swingblade sawmill. Most likely from D&L in canada. Thanks for watching.
Do you think that by leaving your cut boards on the slab as you continue with the next sequential cuts that it puts more strain on the blade and motor? Certainly a different way of milling planks for sure. Cool set up.
No, i think the blade sits in the kerf and gap is supported by the uncut wood ahead. Also it is important to consider that the teeth are notched/bent in alterating directions so the kerf that is cut is wider than the thickness of the blade. Thanks for watching.
Yes I did. There is a video about it if you are interested. I underestimated how much room I would need for the head to clear the end of the logs and should have made the rails another 3 feet longer. If I were to do it over I would build a shed for the saw mill, invert the cutting head, and susspend it from rails overhead. Thanks for watching.
You're a handy man . Make turn tables at the ends so the saw can be turned around 180 degrees then make a cut going the other way .. would speed things up a bit
Thanks for the comment. I have thought about that and it sounds like a great idea. I also thought about a cable lever lift system to raise it an inch and then spin it before setting it down. Maybe once I have a garage to work in a will be able to work something out.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 I like your idea better . One simple lever to lift , spin it around and drop it back on the tracks . Patent it before Woodmiser steals the idea .
Safety tip when you park any tractor equipped with hydraulic equipment, lower the equipment to the ground. Doing so prevents the tractor moving and keeps children safer.
Yup, and i refuse to let anyone step under the loader, with how many hydraylic lines i have seen break i dont think i will allow anyone inside the loader raised more than a foot or two.
Thats a great question. I have not used any other sawmills so unfortunately i do not have any expertise there. If i had to do it over again, and had the time, i would build a sawmill myself diy. If i had unlimited funds, or was able to commit to the investment, i would buy a swing blade from D&L in Canada.
Thats a great question. I have not used any other sawmills so unfortunately i do not have any expertise there. If i had to do it over again, and had the time, i would build a sawmill myself diy. If i had unlimited funds, or was able to commit to the investment, i would buy a swing blade from D&L in Canada.
Hello, it is very hard to say because it varies widely on what I am cutting but it seems I get about 4 hours of cut time before the cut gets bad and I have to change the blade. After about 30 minutes cut time the initial "zing" wears off and I can tell thar I have to push a little harder to get through a cut. My last blade I think I did 7 logs @ 13 feet each all with thick bark, they were all about 12-13 cuts each log so that would be sonewhere around 1100 feet. Thanks for watching.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 thanks so much, that was super helpful! Right now I am trying to decide between a cheap chainsaw mill, or building a band saw mill. Seems like you barley get 1 log out of a chainsaw blade before needed to be sharpened. plus building machines / metal fab is much more up my alley than anything with wood...so I am leaning that way....but its also the more expensive option in the short term. one last question, how many sharpening are you able to get out of a blade? If you if a nail or something, is it trashed, or can you resharpen it?
I only get 1 or 2 sharpenings out of a sawmill blade before the teeth need to be reset and my sharpenings dont last near as long as the original blade. I dont currently have a reliable method for setting offsets on teeth so I have a stack of blades waiting to be sent out once I find a local Amish that can do it.
I use my eye-chrometer. 😁 The top and bottom cut of the slab are parralell because the log hasnt moved. After rotating 90 degrees, using my eye, the top cut is waste. Every cut after that is parallel to the previous cut so is guaranteed equal thickness. If the 90 deg turn was off then the edge cuts will be slightly at a lean, barely noticable. Thanks for the comment.
Funny story, i found it as a display model on top of the freezer section in a grocery store. The owner wasnt going to sell it to me because he didnt have any track. I told him i didnt need track and he sold it to me for $2400. This was just after the shutdowns began happening here in Wisconsin. I couldnt find anything else for sale at the time, everyone was buying them up, but i think i got a good deal.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 Do you find white pine has sufficient strength for your structural lumber, compared to say spruce, or are you spacing the beams closer together in the home? Also, I remain surprised that you have not invested in a planing mill to finish plane the lumber to a nice smooth side (or maybe you have in another video and I missed it!). What are your thoughts on planing down white pine to a smooth finish? My other question is: given the lengths you are cutting and only two supports, are you finding any sag in the cant as you work your way down sawing off planks? And if so, how do you compensate for that?
I have purposely slightly increased the size of timbers in the A-frame, it appears to be structuraly sound. The cant does begin to sag on the ends and rise in the middle as its thickness is cut into lumber, to prevent this i placed support blocks on the ends to prevent the sagging. We enjoy the look of the ruff cut wood but quite simply do not currently have the financial resources to purchase a thickness planner or an edger. Both would make our lumber much more appealing to most. Thanks for watching.
so the Same rules go, with a band saw as with a chain saw as far as lubrication and tension, except you can get away with a little less tension in a chain saw!
Great video! Would it help to drill a small hole through your tensioner bolt at the proper tension and put a cotter pin in the hole to stop the nut from creeping due to vibration?
Good idea, but unfortunately the blade expands quite a bit while it warms up. Thus why i recomend individuals to check the tension with a torq wrench. Thanks for the comment.
Re the tensioning of the V belt...would it be possible to work out a spring-loaded tensioner for when it is running, much like the serpentine belt tensioner on a car engine.... I remember one on a rotary hoe where the V belt was tensioned (acted as a clutch to engage the tines) and was an eccentric that went over-centre, with the roller under spring tension against the belt....
Nice setup. Why don't you just a 4 foot rail extension to your track? Should be easy to do. I guess I missed the part where you checked that after you rolled the log you insured that the side edges were 90 degrees to your blade.
Thanks for the comment. I have considered adding another 3 foot section to my track but i no longer need to cut timbers that length and i have very few trees on my property straight enough to make timbers that long. I typically just eye up the 90 degree turn but can place a board across the rails and use a square if necesary. The 90 degree turn ends up on the edges of all the boards when cut this way and is hard to notice if it is off only by a little.
Thanks for the comment. From my experience the strength of the wood immediately in front of the blade holds the kerf open wide enough to not cause extra friction on the blade. Also because the kerf is slightly larger than the thickness of the blade due to the offset of the teeth. At the very end of the cut when the teeth have cut through the log but the blade is still in the kerf i notice increased friction.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 I’ve seen chainsaw millers tuck a wedge in behind the saw every once in a while. Much bigger kerf than yours, of course, but even with yours, a shim might avoid that late friction.
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This is a very helpful-- I've bought a mountainside of land; steep pretty much everywhere with an amazing rounded summit. I'm exploring the many options for building my near summit cabin, storage sheds, outbuildings, etc. I know full well how much work and effort goes into doing this kind of video, and it's really appreciated it-- very grateful for your insights, advice, experience, and knowledge you've shared here.
Just be selective keep those root systems close to hold your soil. Mud slides are awful! Hope you build your dream home and can do it with with what your land provides👍
What a great system. ! Thanks for sharing all the details..
Very clear honest chat style of video, was great to watch. Thankyou for your time putting it together
Thanks, and thank you for watching.
I bought a Hudson hunter/ Sawyer several years ago. It was a pain to assemble. I got the aluminum track. I set it up to roll the mill off the track to get a longer cut. My tractor is an antique, I use the bucket and chains to handle logs. I'm building tiny timber frames, slower than anticipated. Thanks for sharing your ingenuity!
Thanks for watching! My sawmill was a demo model and already assembled, therefore I avoided the joys of assembly.
Thanks for showing me your system - I'm just looking into all the different types of mills right now and it's great to know the things that you do. Cheers.
Thanks for watching.
I say you are a decent sawyer for sure. Great idea rotating only once!!
Thanks
you sir, are fantastic. great video filled with great information. I wish I had a question but you covered everything. only thanks my man.
Thanks for watching.
This is just such a great video. I like your ingenuity and keeping it simple. thanks. Oh and I'm looking into the swing blade you mentioned.
👍
Thank you for the informative video. I enjoy watching sawmill videos because I will purchase a mill in the next year. Really appreciate the heads up pertaining to the ups and downs of the equipment.
Thanks for watching. Happy milling.
I think you are better off to build a mill over buying one.
Good vid ... I like the simplicity and the pointers
Thanks for watching.
I like your common sense approach that works well for you!
Thanks for the comment.
Very useful information Steve. I'm building a Timber Frame cabin for my wife and I to retire to. It's taken 6 years so far and I have always had trouble getting wood milled for the project. I finally bought a Woodlands Mills HM122. Got an older Massey Ferguson tractor last year so I think I will finally have what I need to be more self reliant. Absolutely beautiful property you have there Bud and a beautiful life with your family. Good luck with all your projects. Tim
Thanks for watching.
Looks like just what I’m needing. That set up would be perfect for me. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the comment.
Hi, at first I thought maybe this video would be so-so, but I kept watching. You did a good job of explaining your set up. I thought the big pointers at the end, using generous lube and watching belt tensioner and the third supplier winch were just excellent. Good job.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Like your investigation. Also your explanation. Very informative. Thanks from Boscawen NH. Hope you have a Better Day
Thanks for watching.
I really enjoyed your video. I think that this set up with cementing the rails and log holders in place would be much more stable and reliable over time. No need to level or adjust a typical metal deck. I guess you sacrifice portability but I don't think it's a big deal. Whenever I build a mill, it's going to be like this. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment, don't forget to make your track long enough to clear, on both ends, the length of log you ultimately intend to mill. I made mine 24 feet intending to mill 22 foot Logs. Realistically I can easily mill 20 footers and 21 footers with a bit of a struggle. Lol... I wish I could afford a D & L Swing Blade! That would be the way to go!
I really love that video, thanks for that.
Thanks, it took me a while to put the video together but I thought it would be something interesting.
Some good creative thinking here. Well done!
Thanks. I wish I could afford a swing blade from D&L, they look awesome and even less log moving then how I do it! But, since I cannot, I try to make the best with what I can afford.
Nice video. A little different than the Hudson I learned on. The idea is still the same. Milling is a labor of love.
Thanks for watching.
You really do things differently. I like what you are doing and I'm glad you got it adjusted like you want it.
Thanks for watching.
Good clear demo, thanks.
Thanks
Smart milling. I like the setup and the single roll idea.
Thanks.
Wow awesome buddy, we’ll done.
I have a small stand of white pine my father and his brother planted about 80 years ago and the last 15 years been wondering how best to mill it.
Your idea has really got me thinking thanks again.
Cheers from New Zealand
Cheers, thanks for watching.
Necessity is the mother of....
Cool video!
Thanks for the comment; glad you liked it. If you haven't already, make sure you check out some of my vids of the A-Frame cabin I built with lumber milled on my sawmill.
Nice setup thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Hopefully I will get the opportunity to mill a bit more this spring and give an update and more footage.
Thanks for the valuable information.
Thanks for watching.
I like the setup you got !
Thanks for watching.
Great idea. Turn once and get all the cuts out of the wood. Genius.
Thanks.
Great way to saw on a budget. I think many portable mills are too expensive. Great ingenuity and making the most of your situation. My uncle had a Hudson and had many of the problems you where you fixed. Nice sawing.
Thanks for watching.
Cool set up man. I am a bit jealous of your access to those super nice trees!
Thanks for the comment. Not sure my trees are all that great but I was able to mill all the boards and timbers for my timber A frame cabin! Thanks for the comment.
Always looking for hybrid methods. Thanks a ton, Sir!
Thanks for watching.
Good job.. I think you would find a cant hook very handy. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment. It might be useful to have one for turning.
very impressive, thank you!
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing your method of cutting longer logs than most of these little sawmills offered as part of length of track goes.
I just have to decide which brand to buy because I don't want to help support any of the Chinese military by buying Chinese made products anymore.
I measure from the center of the log down to the bottom of my Mill. That way I know I'm getting even cuts through the wood. I don't worry about the bottom or the top I just make sure the middle is centered at each end and make sure supports are all level underneath. I fill in the gaps underneath the long log with different size blocks. I never thought about cutting it at the very bottom like that to get a thick cant.
Thanks for watching.
One of the most informative saw milling videos I have ever seen. Thank you so much for sharing, especially all the info at the end.
Thanks, thats why i made the video. I thought, as a novice sawyer, about what had frustrated me when first learning how to mill.
By the time I buy the land, plant the trees, and harvest them,,,,,, I'll be too old to do it! I like your system.
Great information. I have a Hudson sawmill as well and don't like the clamps, I think I will try the chock method.
Nice. I like the chocks, it would be interesting ti have a hydraulic jake under one for adjustments but certainly not necesary. And, if you cut through a wood chock, no big deal. Happy milling.
Nice setup!
Thanks for watching.
If you used an old car jack screw type under the chocks or right next to the chocks you could level the log much quicker. I like your idea of leaving one side of the log rounded to fit the chocks. Great video.
Maybe i could cement the screw jack into another pier. Thanks for the comment.
For this setup I tend to think that's a great idea, maybe go with a hydraulic floor jack, makes less effortless. But when not in use take that jacks and put inside the shed to keep dry.
@@stevesullivan2432 screw ones are cheap and easy. you can make a hook that goes into 1/4 in driver to run the up and down.
slick set up!
Thanks for watching.
great info, thank you
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Great set up smart
Thanks for watching
Good job man!
Thanks for watching.
Brilliant. Thanks
Exceptional comment. 😁 Thanks for watching.
Great INFORMATION we plan to build a saw with a 30' trailor frame we like the way u used curved blocks and also the way You cut piece after piece neat. John M. in Milo Maine
Thanks, several comments have come in about using a scisor jake for one of the piers, i was thinking of a camper stabalizer, and using an impact gun to spin it and adjusr the position of the log relative to the othee end very easily. Happy milling.
Good suggestions on things you have discovered. i.e. the coolant and such. Thanks
Thanks for watching.
This was a great video. Too often creators fill their video with too much verbage and way too much footage that isn't necessary. You sir made a video that was lengthy, but left me with wanting more. Congratulations for an awesome video.
I saw you at 9:10 pounding on something with a hammer and I wanted to know what you were doing. Regardless, after hearing you talk about Hudson Mills I was super excited. I've been looking at the other brand that doesn't have more economical versions as Hudson does. Well I could go on and on about your video. The tips and tricks at the end was great. Well put together sir. I may just unlike the video so I could like it all over again. Thank you!
Good Video!
Thanks for watching.
Impressive and with a very small saw mill ...
Thanks
The Simpson Strongtie company makes post bases which have a threaded adjustable base plate. I like your idea of the permanent bed, but I'd put in a set of these about every 6 feet and make a captured sliding plate with a lock knob, and a few places where I could flip up a 90° arm and flip a cant to square easily. Something to make a cam dog system.
Sounds like great ideas, i will look into it. Thanks
Thanks I learned something
Thanks for watching. Glad you found it informational.
Good video! Was looking for an easier way to cut boards on my mill. The dogs and supports are time consuming, going to try your saddle method tomorrow.
Thanks for watching. Happy milling.
Thanks that was interesting.
Thanks for watching.
How much wood have you stacked up?
You letting them air dry correct.
It’s very interesting I’m just planning on building one and I’m glad I watched your post!!!
At this point we only have a few 1x8s stacked up. We used everything else we milled to construct the shed and then convert it into a cabin last fall. We constructed the building with wet wood, as is a timber frame supposed to be constructed, though out of necessity we dried it out too quickly though there are still no visible signs of checking. We have about 4 cords of off cuts and rounds stacked waiting to be split for future fire wood. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much
Thanks for watching.
Interesting video. You probably mentioned it somewhere along in your videos, but where are you located generally, and what species of trees are you milling? Thanks
We are in Central wisconsin and so far have milled only eastern white pine. Thanks for the comment.
very nice!!!!!!
Thanks
Hi Steve, nice video on the saw mill. I plan to get one. However I have been a carpenter since I got out of High School in 1976 and I would use "easy off" oven cleaner to clean the pitch off my blades when sawing Pine....hope this helps you in cleaning your blades and machine. I'm thinking maybe pouring a solid slab of concrete between the rails so I can support the log anywhere...
Yes on the slab. I have run into trouble wanting to run logs just slightly shorter than my piers are appart. With this system it is also difficult to mill smaller logs because the weight of the log is the primary force keeping it in place. If I could get any mill I wanted I would get a swing blade but that is deffinately out of my budget currently. If I had to do the mill over I would build a shed with rails and invert the mill to hang from the shed removing the rails on the ground. Thanks for watching.
I clicked on this video once before and enjoyed it .i love the simplicity of your log cutter ..was wondering if you bought the meconizum from hudson and installed your own track? also how many Hp is that motor ?
Hello, thanks for watching. I purchased the saw caraige from a hudaon dealer in wisconsin. It was a demo model and had no track included in the sale. I constructed the rails myself from angle iron pieces and cemented them into the ground. The saw has an 8 horse motor. Glad to hear you enjoyed the video.
Were the shrouds a problem. That's kind of wicked if you would slip, or miss step. Yes that is a different way of cutting, but if your happy that's all that matters. Thanks for sharing. Iowa is watching. :) 24 degrees
No, actually the shrouds were not a problem... I need to get them back on. Thanks for the comment.
Suggestion get a couple car scissor jacks for the log to sit on easy to adjust
I wonder if you could use bottle Jack's on each end to raise each end and maybe modifying the tops of the jack , just a thought then you could be closer to the wood without having to get on and off the tractor 🚜.
Yeah, i think i would only need one jack on the thinner end of the tree. I have a scisor jack to try it but it seems easier so far to use wood blocks. Thanks for watching.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 yes sir, good deal and very smart fella.
The band wheels usually have a tire or some friction material to keep the blade from slipping and not take the corners off the teeth. Just like a truck tire that has been parked a long time develops a flat spot, the band wheels are under compression only on one half during storage and take a temporary set. This will lead to some vibration on initial running that may take hours to work out. Just because the saw will still cut with lopsided wheels is no reason you should avoid effective startup and shutdown procedures. Shutdown is particularly tempting, light is getting dim and there is one last board so shutdown becomes the kill switch. Then there is the big storm and it will be almost a month before sawing resumes. An overnight shutdown is no big deal, longer is a bigger deal.
Thanks for watching.
Smart….
Could put a couple stands beside to sit the cuts on and lift over it. Looks like more than enough tractor space. Then hall off to avoid carrying your log to the waste cut pile.
I’m surprised the bandsaw blade didn’t get pinched with the 8” deep cut. That’s great if it works…
The strength of the wood directly in front of the teeth hold the weight for the blade to keep cutting. No going backwards though, have to finish the cut once in it. Thanks for the comment.
I like your idea of the rails cemented down and the extra length you get from it. Also just a thought when you said there was problems with winch, blades wearing out, and needing lots of water...wondering if making the bottom cut with all the weight of the log on the blade could be stressing things and causing those issues?
I thought that about the deep bottom cut also but whenever I stopped the cut in the log the blade was still able to back up several inches inside the kerf. I think the kerf cut by the offset teeth is a bit wider than the blade itself. I do however notice the blade get pinched at the very end of the cut when I collapse the kerf by cutting out the end of the log before the majority of the blade exits behind the teeth. Thanks for watching.
Nice and simple, Does the job! Do you know what size the pulley wheels and saw blade is?
www.hud-son.com/product/hunter-sawmill/
Love your video. I did a little sawmill work on WMizer. I like your idea on few turns on long logs
I might suggest in finding cut height on each end if log u measure from heart center up and down as to target a beam with heart center in middle of beam. Maybe more important on walnut or cherry but I think it gives a better look to surface grain pattern in finished if heart is centered. Maybe less curvature upon beam drying
Great job.
Thanks for watching.
very cost effective!
Thanks for the comment. I think so too. Trying to get setup to sharpen my blades so it remains so.
This is an excellent setup for a hobby or farmer who just cuts for personal use once in a while. I looked up the hudson hunter and it seems quite affordable, but how were you able to order without track and use your own, or did you just have to discard the track from the manufacturer? I am thinking about setting up on a cheap ex-mobile home frame type trailer which can be had around my area very cheap occasionally thoughts?
Great question. I located my bandsaw at the begginning of the pandemic from a dealer that also owned a grocery store. The model i purchased was actualy his demo model and thus why no track was included. When i went to get it they had to get it down off the frozen food sectiion. Probably work well on a trailer but may be too high to load logs easily or push carraige. Thanks for watching.
Cool, thanks for making the video. I'm surprised that the saw doesn't get pinched by the heavy weight of the log when you make the bottom cut. Have you set the teeth in some special way?
The kerf stays open long enough from the strength of the wood for the blade to pass through behind the cut. All bandsaw blades have offset teeth so the kerf is actually thicker than the blade. The only location the blade gets pinched is at the end of the cut when the teeth have no more wood to cut and the blade is still in the log as the kerf collapses. I can see and feel this happening as the blade exits the log but Ive never had any issues with it comming out as it is pinched. Thanks for watching.
You screwed up just right👍 getting shaving's on the tracks is a pain! At least you have some spread. And the extra width is nice! No added trimming is a plus👍 you don't need much to make good lumber just a good set up and a little planning. Great job!👍🇺🇸
Thanks for watching.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 have you thought about making an "L" shaped stop, you could stand it up while tilting the forks and keep the log from going further than you'd like when your setting up the side cuts?
Yeah, something like that would help but may obstruct the carriage on the tracks so then would have to be moveable. I think the next thing i will work on is using a camper stabilizer for one of the piers to easily level the log.
That is ONE dangerous looking piece of equipment. If the band ever comes off.. omg..
I will put the gardes back on before I mill again. And just fyi, the blade comming off is not terrible at all. It is not actually spinning that fast and as soon as it comes of it binds in the guides or the carriage and stops spinning. Thanks for watching.
I like the way you think
Thank you. I like the way I think as well.
I like what you are doing. With a bit more thought you could improve wood recovery, protect your eyes from sawdust, milling and wind could cause you big problems, sooner or later it will bite you. I hope it never happens. An old miller.☺
Thanks for the comment.
That saddle block approach is very smart. Would 3 work or does it get too complicated?
The 3rd makes it all messed up but i do slide blocks under to support the log from flexing as it gets weaker through the milling proccess
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 maybe a car screw jack would be convenient for support
Yeah, ive been looking into that too. I was thinking one off an rv trailer and using an impact drill to make it go up and down.
I like your saw mill set up and rail system.
It seams like you have a lot of waste with the off cuts
Thanks for the comment. Some of the cuts are slabs that i use for other projects or turn into dimensional lumber but i also need firewood so i dont worry too much about maximizing the tree for dimensional lumber.
hello buddy...can i know what exact size of blade you use.im search it on shop .thank you..
woodmizer.com/Store/Shop/BladeOptions?id=18025
Hi Johansen; I have a question about the lube. You brought up the difficulty with getting enough lube on the saw and you mentioned water and pinesol as lubricants. When you add soap, how much do you add to water to get a good lube? I enjoyed your video and the method you use to saw the logs. I wondered why the millers removed the boards with every cut versus leaving them in place. I'm glad that you proved the value in making multiple cuts without rolling the log. At 75 years old, I can't see myself rolling the log 3 times before making a money cut so your method looks very sensible to me. Thanks for making the video, I enjoyed it more than the ones that spend a lot of time showing minutia. You did a good job! - Jim Potter
Thanks for the comment. I ussually add only about a tablespoon of pinesol per gallon of water. It is not necesary but does help a little to cut down the sap especially if the logs have recently been milled. I also like the smell so it is a little treat while milling. To my understanding traditional milling makes a complete cant, by rolling the log 3 times, to ensure perpendicular sides and give a good, flat, footing to sit on their flat deck and have a nice square corner to secure the cant with dogs. My style of milling also has a limit to the size of cant I can form because my second cut, being the bottom of the slab before rolling, can only be as large as the depth of my mill at about 8 inches. If I rolled it before making that cut I would just be cutting of scrap from the top. With my method I ussually take off a couple 1.5 inch slabs before getting making my cant as an 8 inch slab. This is fine for me because I have plenty of use for these slabs as decking and even fire wood if ultimately unusable. I guess I could have just said that millers paid for the log and want to make the most lumber possible. :)
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 Thanks for the reply and information. I think your method makes sense!
How do you change the blades? Is a lot of disassembly required?
Hello, first you have to remove the 2 blade guards, 2 bolts each. In the video you viewed they were already off. After that there is a blade tensioner, 1 bolt, that needs to be loosened to allow the blade to come off. Thats it. It is designed for the wheels to be held from one side of the blade so the blade can just slide off once loosened. Thanks for the comment.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 Easier than i imagined, thanks for the reply. Nice set up you have.
You are just like I am I am proud to Subscribe to your channel as I am just like you are I make everything I own and will never buy as they say the good stuff, Mine does not look like a cady but just a chevy and I am as You are, Happy with what you built and it is much Better then the Cady's Heheheheh Good Luck and God Bless see you on line!
Thank you.
12:54 It looks like it would be easier to do your 90 degree turn right here on the forks. You could rotate your forks back (tips up) as far as it would go. Then in that position manually turn the log against the right angle back plate. You would then probably have to use some kind of clamp to hold it against the vertical so it doesn't roll forward again as you level the forks. Then with forks level, drive up and set it down on your V-blocks. Do the little bit of adjustment left on the V-blocks as you set it down or just after you set it down. Seems easier than trying to tip forward onto the V-blocks and wrestle it to 90 degrees there.
I tried that exact idea first, unfortunately the distance from my front tires to the back guard of my forks is not far enough for my front wheels to avoid driving on the tracks and destroying them. If i had made my tracks narrower it may have worked. Thanks for watching.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 How about building a platform that fits over the tracks to protect them from the front tires while you position the log? It could then just be flipped off to the side while you mill that log.
Something to consider. Thanks for the comment.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 Then fabricate a spacer...say 12" off the back. You could make it in minutes from what you scrap off your logs.
Curious if you would buy the same saw again or maybe a different brand like Norwood or Timberking, etc.?
If buying a bandsaw brand doesnt really matter. Determine the features you need/ desire and purchase the brand that gives you the best value. If i had to do it all over again i would probably invest in a swingblade sawmill. Most likely from D&L in canada. Thanks for watching.
Do you think that by leaving your cut boards on the slab as you continue with the next sequential cuts that it puts more strain on the blade and motor? Certainly a different way of milling planks for sure. Cool set up.
No, i think the blade sits in the kerf and gap is supported by the uncut wood ahead. Also it is important to consider that the teeth are notched/bent in alterating directions so the kerf that is cut is wider than the thickness of the blade. Thanks for watching.
If you leave the cut boards on top you will have a better cutting result with less warpage.
I concure. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Might not have all the bells and whistles might not be the prettiest on the block , but little saw does a nice job
Yup, thanks for the comment.
Did you make the guide rail system
Yes I did. There is a video about it if you are interested. I underestimated how much room I would need for the head to clear the end of the logs and should have made the rails another 3 feet longer. If I were to do it over I would build a shed for the saw mill, invert the cutting head, and susspend it from rails overhead. Thanks for watching.
You're a handy man . Make turn tables at the ends so the saw can be turned around 180 degrees then make a cut going the other way .. would speed things up a bit
Thanks for the comment. I have thought about that and it sounds like a great idea. I also thought about a cable lever lift system to raise it an inch and then spin it before setting it down. Maybe once I have a garage to work in a will be able to work something out.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 I like your idea better . One simple lever to lift , spin it around and drop it back on the tracks . Patent it before Woodmiser steals the idea .
Safety tip when you park any tractor equipped with hydraulic equipment, lower the equipment to the ground. Doing so prevents the tractor moving and keeps children safer.
I agree. Thanks for the comment. We also always engage the parking brake.
Dropping the FEL and cutter deck is my second parking brake!
Yup, and i refuse to let anyone step under the loader, with how many hydraylic lines i have seen break i dont think i will allow anyone inside the loader raised more than a foot or two.
Nice job. Would you choose a Hudson mill again?
Thats a great question. I have not used any other sawmills so unfortunately i do not have any expertise there. If i had to do it over again, and had the time, i would build a sawmill myself diy. If i had unlimited funds, or was able to commit to the investment, i would buy a swing blade from D&L in Canada.
Thats a great question. I have not used any other sawmills so unfortunately i do not have any expertise there. If i had to do it over again, and had the time, i would build a sawmill myself diy. If i had unlimited funds, or was able to commit to the investment, i would buy a swing blade from D&L in Canada.
how many cuts do you get out of a blade? (assuming you dont hit something)
ps--that A frame structure in the background is very cool/
Hello, it is very hard to say because it varies widely on what I am cutting but it seems I get about 4 hours of cut time before the cut gets bad and I have to change the blade. After about 30 minutes cut time the initial "zing" wears off and I can tell thar I have to push a little harder to get through a cut. My last blade I think I did 7 logs @ 13 feet each all with thick bark, they were all about 12-13 cuts each log so that would be sonewhere around 1100 feet. Thanks for watching.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 thanks so much, that was super helpful!
Right now I am trying to decide between a cheap chainsaw mill, or building a band saw mill. Seems like you barley get 1 log out of a chainsaw blade before needed to be sharpened. plus building machines / metal fab is much more up my alley than anything with wood...so I am leaning that way....but its also the more expensive option in the short term.
one last question, how many sharpening are you able to get out of a blade? If you if a nail or something, is it trashed, or can you resharpen it?
That I initially built to be a shed for my tractor. We converted it to a cabin and now live in it full time, off grid. Thanks for watching.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 there's just something architecturally pleasing about it.
I only get 1 or 2 sharpenings out of a sawmill blade before the teeth need to be reset and my sharpenings dont last near as long as the original blade. I dont currently have a reliable method for setting offsets on teeth so I have a stack of blades waiting to be sent out once I find a local Amish that can do it.
How do know if your third is square to your first and second cuts?
I use my eye-chrometer. 😁 The top and bottom cut of the slab are parralell because the log hasnt moved. After rotating 90 degrees, using my eye, the top cut is waste. Every cut after that is parallel to the previous cut so is guaranteed equal thickness. If the 90 deg turn was off then the edge cuts will be slightly at a lean, barely noticable. Thanks for the comment.
How much did your saw cost?
Funny story, i found it as a display model on top of the freezer section in a grocery store. The owner wasnt going to sell it to me because he didnt have any track. I told him i didnt need track and he sold it to me for $2400. This was just after the shutdowns began happening here in Wisconsin. I couldnt find anything else for sale at the time, everyone was buying them up, but i think i got a good deal.
are you down south with all that good straight lumber ( logs)?
Wisconsin, eastern white pine. Thanks for watching
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 Do you find white pine has sufficient strength for your structural lumber, compared to say spruce, or are you spacing the beams closer together in the home? Also, I remain surprised that you have not invested in a planing mill to finish plane the lumber to a nice smooth side (or maybe you have in another video and I missed it!). What are your thoughts on planing down white pine to a smooth finish? My other question is: given the lengths you are cutting and only two supports, are you finding any sag in the cant as you work your way down sawing off planks? And if so, how do you compensate for that?
I have purposely slightly increased the size of timbers in the A-frame, it appears to be structuraly sound. The cant does begin to sag on the ends and rise in the middle as its thickness is cut into lumber, to prevent this i placed support blocks on the ends to prevent the sagging. We enjoy the look of the ruff cut wood but quite simply do not currently have the financial resources to purchase a thickness planner or an edger. Both would make our lumber much more appealing to most. Thanks for watching.
so the Same rules go, with a band saw as with a chain saw as far as lubrication and tension, except you can get away with a little less tension in a chain saw!
Thanks for the comment.
Why did you remove the guard?
I had the guards off to change the blade and never put them back on. I will install them before using again. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! Would it help to drill a small hole through your tensioner bolt at the proper tension and put a cotter pin in the hole to stop the nut from creeping due to vibration?
Good idea, but unfortunately the blade expands quite a bit while it warms up. Thus why i recomend individuals to check the tension with a torq wrench. Thanks for the comment.
A double nutt would do better
Re the tensioning of the V belt...would it be possible to work out a spring-loaded tensioner for when it is running, much like the serpentine belt tensioner on a car engine....
I remember one on a rotary hoe where the V belt was tensioned (acted as a clutch to engage the tines) and was an eccentric that went over-centre, with the roller under spring tension against the belt....
Thanks for the comment. Im sure there would be a way to make it work. I think it is done the way it is for cost, weiggt, and simplicity.
John, at 21:23, he's talking about blade tension, not belt tension.
Nice setup. Why don't you just a 4 foot rail extension to your track? Should be easy to do. I guess I missed the part where you checked that after you rolled the log you insured that the side edges were 90 degrees to your blade.
Thanks for the comment. I have considered adding another 3 foot section to my track but i no longer need to cut timbers that length and i have very few trees on my property straight enough to make timbers that long. I typically just eye up the 90 degree turn but can place a board across the rails and use a square if necesary. The 90 degree turn ends up on the edges of all the boards when cut this way and is hard to notice if it is off only by a little.
With the weight of boards on top lots of friction, that's why mills cut on edge.
Thanks for the comment. From my experience the strength of the wood immediately in front of the blade holds the kerf open wide enough to not cause extra friction on the blade. Also because the kerf is slightly larger than the thickness of the blade due to the offset of the teeth. At the very end of the cut when the teeth have cut through the log but the blade is still in the kerf i notice increased friction.
@@johansenfamilyvlog8972 I’ve seen chainsaw millers tuck a wedge in behind the saw every once in a while. Much bigger kerf than yours, of course, but even with yours, a shim might avoid that late friction.
Perhaps, thanks for the tip.
Go get them
Thanks for the comment.
Cant are heavy if that one thi g i remember from gradingband pulling lumber cants were heavy
Thanks for watching. I dont think i could move them without the tractor.