Great project video. Nice approach to building a chainsaw sled mill with no welding! Thanks for all your work and taking time to share! I know some people might not understand how the cutting time is effected by wood species. I just did some 4 ft boards of 12" wide red oak so your sled is doing a good job on green lumber.
8/23/23; hey great innovation! Impressed with yur creativity & telling us about those EMT add-on's.."make-a-pipe"...big thanks for that! All great stuff & seems to be 90% avail from big box HmDpo or Lowes. Terrific! Good job young man! Stay safe & carry on!👍💪🤗🍻
Just had this pop up on my feed. This is an excellent build! I timed the cut at 4 minutes so if that is real time for red oak it isn't bad at all. I can't get over how well it turned out at the start. Just a few tweaks and that thing will be mint! Great job 👏
Thank you! That last cut is in real time. I did that because on a lot of other sawmill videos, people were always asking how long it actually takes. And yeah, not to bad for a good size red oak log. I’ve cut pine since then, and the pine is about half the time.
A thing or two to work out but over all great job young mand👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 To produce something like this as a young man means your well on your way to doing perfect jobs as long as you keep at it and don't give up✌🏿
Very nice build indeed. Glad to see that somebody can make something useful without using 2x4’s or by welding! Is it possible for you to post an additional video of the actual parts used to mount the saw to the carriage assembly? I tried to email you but couldn't get though all of the “I’m not a robot” ReCaptchas - they just wouldn’t stop coming! I understand the use of the adapters to bolt the saw directly to the mounting plate (1/4” steel), but I don’t see how you have mounted that piece of steel to the wooden carriage (the L-shaped pieces of plywood) while at the same time, leaving it adjustable. At the 11:49 mark, I see a couple of long screws and large fender washers laying on the table. Are these inserted down through the ¼” plate, through the plywood and then a nut put on each below? The leveling screws are a bit of a mystery as well. For them to operate/work correctly, the steel plate cannot be mounted solidly to the plywood that the adjusting screws are threaded through, otherwise the plate would never be adjustable up or down with the screws. It looks as if there needs to be enough “play” in the two large screws (that were shown on the table) that even when tightened, would allow the adjusting screws to move any corner up or down a couple thousandths of an inch in order to do the leveling. Once leveled, the two nuts holding the plate to the plywood could then be tightened to secure the saw. I'm just guessing here. Thanks!
Hey, I’m not sure how you were trying to email me, you shouldn’t have had to do re captchas. Did you try northwoodsengineered@gmail.com. Shoot me an email and I can send some more detailed pictures. Hard to explains here with words.
Really nice quality build. Still on an Alaskan style mill with a 92cc saw and 42" bar. Been thinking of something like this for cutting planks and dimensional lumber.
You should be proud of yourself ... and yes, when cutting a narrower softwood like pine, it'll go much quicker ... I'd like to see the time difference ... thank you!
Yeah for sure the best dyi or not chainsaw mill i have seen. The ability to stand up is a huge back savor. The ones that ride on top. Idk what it is i can not find a good position that isnt tweaking my back. Less effort doesnt mean lazy. It mean more shit can get done and you dont have to go to bed exhausted.
Great job, I would like to see just how you designed the head and saw holder! Could you send a few pictures? I think we could improve it with a pivot point to pitch in ,”toward the log or away”, roller tip of the saw blade in or the heal or but of the bar in for a better faster cut! Again great job !!
Great video lots of great ideas this will help me a lot. I am experimenting now on my not is complicated is yours your video give me some great tips thanks love the conduit idea
Very good mill, I see a lot of different Chainsaw mills combined Norwood PM14, Alaskan and a bit of Logosol, well done. those linear actuator bearing how do they like the fine saw dust?
Thank you! They have held up fine so far but to be honest I haven’t cut that many logs yet. Got it done in late fall last year so I didn’t use it through the winter but will hopefully start again soon so we will see how everything holds up
I don’t. I have though about it but just haven’t had time to put them together. If you wasn’t to do something similar and have questions shoot me an email and I can try to help. Northwoodsengineered@gmail.com
Great job as far as getting it cut lower. You might try to leave it just as it is flip the log over and slide one or two of the boards you’ve already cut underneath it and use 2 screws through a few metal stops along the edges, of the boards that you put under it, under it, to secure it and keep everything aligned to the log you may not even have to move the saw. Other than make a few minor adjustments. Hope this helps
To be honest I have not used it nearly as much as I would have liked. Too many other competing projects! So I can’t say too much about the durability at this point. I’m hoping to use it some more this fall though
The important thing you definitely already know. The sharpening angle of the saw chain when sawing longitudinal wood must be 10° insted 35°. The saw blade remains stable and the table surface is smooth. 🙂
Great project Have you tried mounting the saw at a 30 degree angle? Maybe the cut will be easier as it's more towards a normal cut and probably there will be bigger chips? Of course you lose some of the maximum cutting depth. Would be interesting to compare
Hey, thank you! No I have not tried that yet. The way I have it made doesn’t allow for it at the moment, but it definitely could be something to try in the future
Awesome Video! Question... How often do you have to resharpen the chain or purchase a new one? (How many logs on average, will one chain last) We are getting into this ourselves and I love your design Thank you for sharing!
Thank you! I bought an electric chainsaw sharpener from granberg to make it easy and you can sharpen without removing the chain. I would resharpen after one or two big oak logs, but if cutting pine you can do a couple more. But there’s just a lot factors. So it’s hard to say how long a chain will last.
HI FIRST TIME ON YOUR CHANNEL. I ADMIRE YOUR WOODEN CHAINSAW MILL. IT'S VERY EASY, WONDERFUL, AND COOL. 👍👏👏💯🏆🏆. BUT I'LL WANT YOU TO BUILD A LITTLE LARGER ONE SAME WAY SAME WOOD. COOL
Great project! I am looking to use those wheels and unistrut for a sliding kayak rack. Your link is for 2” v-groove wheels. Did you use 1.2” wheels or is there a larger width unistrut?
Thanks! I used the 2” wheels which is 2” diameter. The v groove sits on one side of the top of the “u” of the unistrut. Just standard size unistrut. Hopefully that makes sense.
@@northwoodsengineered Awesome work! What is the little black part on the front left wheel? It looks like it might ride inside the unistrut to keep it on track?
That’s a little piece that I made out of some scrap metal I had lying around and some little wheels from a 3d printer. And that’s exactly what it’s for, to ride inside and keep it on track.
They make wheels specifically for unistrut that are designed to hang from a ceiling and carry weight/tools that you could use on the front of your sled to hold it down securely, instead of weight. If you're interested I could shoot you a picture to show you what I'm referring to.
I think I know what you are talking about. I looked into them and I thought they were pretty expensive for some reason and that’s why I didn’t use them. But you could still send me a pic or link. My email is in my about page
Well the nice thing about it is you can make it as long as you want by adding sections. I don’t have equipment to handle longer logs so I didn’t need to make it that long.
Great engineering, but that is a chainsaw killer…look at the dust coming off of the saw 🤔 should those be noodles type chips? I could be wrong… To much pressure to saw bar at once. I'm not badging the design… but it’s not practical. Repair shops hate those saws to repair.
The build looks pretty good but it s way too slow, About two minutes to cut a board not even wide… As a self employed person, time is important and that system is not worth it to me. But for a person that have plenty of time like a retired person or a employee. Good enought i guess. Great engineering though !
Mate... I just Sturt watching the video, and I stop... sorry. Maybe it would be a great idea for somebody interesting into building this machine, to ask for specs, but the video was getting too long. You did a great job, but it is also important to understand your limits of explanations.. it's too dip, and too long it's like a "FORPLAY " extending for ever... Al my best.. Sorry to be abrupt, but some time it's necessary.... hope you'll adjust on it, if not.. i am still sorry..
Great project video. Nice approach to building a chainsaw sled mill with no welding! Thanks for all your work and taking time to share! I know some people might not understand how the cutting time is effected by wood species. I just did some 4 ft boards of 12" wide red oak so your sled is doing a good job on green lumber.
Thank you for the nice comments! Yes the wood species matters so much. I cut some pine the other day and it’s like butter compared to oak
Great problem solving skills dude.
Thanks!
8/23/23; hey great innovation! Impressed with yur creativity & telling us about those EMT add-on's.."make-a-pipe"...big thanks for that! All great stuff & seems to be 90% avail from big box HmDpo or Lowes. Terrific! Good job young man! Stay safe & carry on!👍💪🤗🍻
Thanks for the nice comments!
Great engineering and naturally first cuts will automatically give ideas on improvement. But you did a great job on Improvisation.
Thank you. For sure there will always be improvements to make
My favorite diy chainsaw mill build on RUclips.
Well thank you, that’s quite the compliment, there are some good ones out there.
Yup, saving this and coming back when I got some time. Looks good from first peak
Thanks!
Genius!! That's all that needs to be said! Thank you for the great video.
You are welcome, thank you!
What a great build! Maker Pipe connectors are so handy and you've shown their usefulness here. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! You are welcome
Very inspiring,makes you want to get out and build something, great job.
Thank you very much!
Just had this pop up on my feed. This is an excellent build!
I timed the cut at 4 minutes so if that is real time for red oak it isn't bad at all.
I can't get over how well it turned out at the start. Just a few tweaks and that thing will be mint! Great job 👏
Thank you! That last cut is in real time. I did that because on a lot of other sawmill videos, people were always asking how long it actually takes. And yeah, not to bad for a good size red oak log.
I’ve cut pine since then, and the pine is about half the time.
Great job. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thank you! That would explain why I had a sudden spike in views of this video. I was wondering why that happened.
A thing or two to work out but over all great job young mand👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 To produce something like this as a young man means your well on your way to doing perfect jobs as long as you keep at it and don't give up✌🏿
Thank you! Always room for improvements, that’s for sure
Very nice build indeed. Glad to see that somebody can make something useful without using 2x4’s or by welding! Is it possible for you to post an additional video of the actual parts used to mount the saw to the carriage assembly? I tried to email you but couldn't get though all of the “I’m not a robot” ReCaptchas - they just wouldn’t stop coming! I understand the use of the adapters to bolt the saw directly to the mounting plate (1/4” steel), but I don’t see how you have mounted that piece of steel to the wooden carriage (the L-shaped pieces of plywood) while at the same time, leaving it adjustable. At the 11:49 mark, I see a couple of long screws and large fender washers laying on the table. Are these inserted down through the ¼” plate, through the plywood and then a nut put on each below? The leveling screws are a bit of a mystery as well. For them to operate/work correctly, the steel plate cannot be mounted solidly to the plywood that the adjusting screws are threaded through, otherwise the plate would never be adjustable up or down with the screws. It looks as if there needs to be enough “play” in the two large screws (that were shown on the table) that even when tightened, would allow the adjusting screws to move any corner up or down a couple thousandths of an inch in order to do the leveling. Once leveled, the two nuts holding the plate to the plywood could then be tightened to secure the saw. I'm just guessing here. Thanks!
Hey, I’m not sure how you were trying to email me, you shouldn’t have had to do re captchas. Did you try northwoodsengineered@gmail.com. Shoot me an email and I can send some more detailed pictures. Hard to explains here with words.
Really nice quality build. Still on an Alaskan style mill with a 92cc saw and 42" bar. Been thinking of something like this for cutting planks and dimensional lumber.
Thank you! That’s a nice big saw for milling I bet that works well.
what size was your saw? 60cc? @@northwoodsengineered
@@thegarbagegladiators4735 I’m using a 64 cc
This is awsome! I love the build and it’s the best home made chainsaw mill I’ve seen yet online! If you ever make one to sell I’d buy it!!!
Well thank you very much! I don’t plan on selling them now but maybe someday
You should be proud of yourself ... and yes, when cutting a narrower softwood like pine, it'll go much quicker ... I'd like to see the time difference ... thank you!
Thank you! I’ll have to post an update when I cut some pine.
Yeah for sure the best dyi or not chainsaw mill i have seen. The ability to stand up is a huge back savor. The ones that ride on top. Idk what it is i can not find a good position that isnt tweaking my back. Less effort doesnt mean lazy. It mean more shit can get done and you dont have to go to bed exhausted.
Thank you for the nice comments. Very true on being able to stand up, it makes a huge difference.
Great job, I would like to see just how you designed the head and saw holder! Could you send a few pictures? I think we could improve it with a pivot point to pitch in ,”toward the log or away”, roller tip of the saw blade in or the heal or but of the bar in for a better faster cut! Again great job !!
Thanks! Shoot me an email and I’ll send you some close up pics and we can chat about it. Northwoodsengineered@gmail.com
@@northwoodsengineered Would make a great followup video reads like. Even talking about the design if you don't do.
same here
this is so sweet. i'm only 1 minute in and getting excited about building one myself.
Thank you!
Neat design and build! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Great video lots of great ideas this will help me a lot. I am experimenting now on my not is complicated is yours your video give me some great tips thanks love the conduit idea
Thanks! Glad the video is helpful
Very good mill, I see a lot of different Chainsaw mills combined Norwood PM14, Alaskan and a bit of Logosol, well done. those linear actuator bearing how do they like the fine saw dust?
Thank you!
They have held up fine so far but to be honest I haven’t cut that many logs yet. Got it done in late fall last year so I didn’t use it through the winter but will hopefully start again soon so we will see how everything holds up
@@northwoodsengineered do you sell plans
I don’t. I have though about it but just haven’t had time to put them together.
If you wasn’t to do something similar and have questions shoot me an email and I can try to help. Northwoodsengineered@gmail.com
This is awesome I was just thinking about how to build a chainsaw mill one with Makerpipe over the weekend
Thank you! What a coincidence, hopefully you can use some of my ideas to help you out.
@@northwoodsengineered definitely I didn't even think about the CNC parts. That was a good idea for the throttle cable too.
A great build, but is that Chain Sharp or Dull, took forever to cut through that slab.
Thanks. No the chain is sharp, it’s just not a huge chainsaw and the wood is pretty hard oak so I just went nice and slow. It does take awhile though.
Nice video, thanks. So you know, when I listen your video with my headphone I have the sound only in one side, not stereo, not sure why
Thanks for the note. That’s interesting, I can hear out of both ears so I’m not sure what’s going on
@@northwoodsengineered my headphone is a Bose all around ear. Not sure why it does that on your video, but anyway, it is not important
This is brilliant! Excellent work!
Thank you!
put a boat winch on it to pull the frame thru. use a rope that stretches just s bit to keep the saw tight.
Genius son.
Thank you!
Great job as far as getting it cut lower. You might try to leave it just as it is flip the log over and slide one or two of the boards you’ve already cut underneath it and use 2 screws through a few metal stops along the edges, of the boards that you put under it, under it, to secure it and keep everything aligned to the log you may not even have to move the saw. Other than make a few minor adjustments. Hope this helps
Thanks for the suggestion, I think that would work out!
Good innovative build.
Thank you!
This is an egineering masterpiece.
Thank you!
Im looking at building something similar. Now that you've used it for s bit how has it held up?
To be honest I have not used it nearly as much as I would have liked. Too many other competing projects! So I can’t say too much about the durability at this point. I’m hoping to use it some more this fall though
Looks very good. Nice job!
Thank you!
been using an alaskan mill and looking to upgrade. Looks like a fun project.
Wow very good job 👍👍💪
Thank you!
Amazing job
Thanks!
The important thing you definitely already know.
The sharpening angle of the saw chain when sawing longitudinal wood must be 10° insted 35°. The saw blade remains stable and the table surface is smooth.
🙂
Great project
Have you tried mounting the saw at a 30 degree angle? Maybe the cut will be easier as it's more towards a normal cut and probably there will be bigger chips? Of course you lose some of the maximum cutting depth.
Would be interesting to compare
Hey, thank you! No I have not tried that yet. The way I have it made doesn’t allow for it at the moment, but it definitely could be something to try in the future
Do you have plans and a bill of materials for building the mill?
No I’m sorry I don’t. In the description of the video, there are links to some of the parts I used though
awesome
Thank you!
Can you easily quarter-saw logs with this setup? Or do you need additional bracing/structure?
I think i will be able to quarter saw, its appears to just be all about log positioning. maybe something ill try in the spring
Awesome Video!
Question... How often do you have to resharpen the chain or purchase a new one? (How many logs on average, will one chain last)
We are getting into this ourselves and I love your design
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you! I bought an electric chainsaw sharpener from granberg to make it easy and you can sharpen without removing the chain. I would resharpen after one or two big oak logs, but if cutting pine you can do a couple more. But there’s just a lot factors. So it’s hard to say how long a chain will last.
@northwoodsengineered Awesome! Thank you!
Just wanted a GENERAL time.
That works
Thank you
Like the design .How long and wide is your carriage for saw
Thank you. It is about 16" wide
thanks mine is 14"
@@jerrypfaller8169 sorry i just realized i didnt say how long it is. its about 26 inches long
amazing, while drinking coffee om
Thank you!
Bro can in get the plans? I can buy
Sorry but I don’t have plans for this.
Awesome project! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
Just don't stop inventing :)
I won’t, thanks!
HI FIRST TIME ON YOUR CHANNEL. I ADMIRE YOUR WOODEN CHAINSAW MILL. IT'S VERY EASY, WONDERFUL, AND COOL. 👍👏👏💯🏆🏆. BUT I'LL WANT YOU TO BUILD A LITTLE LARGER ONE SAME WAY SAME WOOD. COOL
Great project! I am looking to use those wheels and unistrut for a sliding kayak rack. Your link is for 2” v-groove wheels. Did you use 1.2” wheels or is there a larger width unistrut?
Thanks! I used the 2” wheels which is 2” diameter. The v groove sits on one side of the top of the “u” of the unistrut. Just standard size unistrut. Hopefully that makes sense.
@@northwoodsengineered Got it. Thank you! I was thinking it was inside the unistrut. Makes sense now as a “track”.
@@northwoodsengineered Awesome work! What is the little black part on the front left wheel? It looks like it might ride inside the unistrut to keep it on track?
That’s a little piece that I made out of some scrap metal I had lying around and some little wheels from a 3d printer. And that’s exactly what it’s for, to ride inside and keep it on track.
Thanks for your response!
They make wheels specifically for unistrut that are designed to hang from a ceiling and carry weight/tools that you could use on the front of your sled to hold it down securely, instead of weight. If you're interested I could shoot you a picture to show you what I'm referring to.
I think I know what you are talking about. I looked into them and I thought they were pretty expensive for some reason and that’s why I didn’t use them. But you could still send me a pic or link. My email is in my about page
I'm at work now. I'll try to remember to send you a picture later this weekend.
Great job but why so short .I want 24 feet long g ..mike Scotland
Well the nice thing about it is you can make it as long as you want by adding sections. I don’t have equipment to handle longer logs so I didn’t need to make it that long.
Cool man
Thanks!
I have a 225 Amp buzz box welder for you, if you're not too far away !
Genius should not be constrained !!
Thanks for the offer, that’s very generous! But I do have access to a welder when needed.
AND USING THE SAME CHAINSAW
BELEZA.... 👍🇧🇷
Thank you!
No audio
There's only a right stereo channel.
Cool now you just need a chainsaw
Great engineering, but that is a chainsaw killer…look at the dust coming off of the saw 🤔 should those be noodles type chips? I could be wrong… To much pressure to saw bar at once. I'm not badging the design… but it’s not practical. Repair shops hate those saws to repair.
Yeah it’s definitely not the best thing for a chainsaw, but I really don’t do it that often.
The build looks pretty good but it s way too slow,
About two minutes to cut a board not even wide…
As a self employed person, time is important and that system is not worth it to me.
But for a person that have plenty of time like a retired person or a employee. Good enought i guess.
Great engineering though !
Thanks for the comment. This definitely is not intended for a production setting. Just for home use
Mate... I just Sturt watching the video, and I stop... sorry. Maybe it would be a great idea for somebody interesting into building this machine, to ask for specs, but the video was getting too long. You did a great job, but it is also important to understand your limits of explanations.. it's too dip, and too long it's like a "FORPLAY " extending for ever... Al my best.. Sorry to be abrupt, but some time it's necessary.... hope you'll adjust on it, if not.. i am still sorry..
Noted, but this video IS for someone that wants to build something similar, that is the point of my channel. But thanks for watching.
Would it be rude to say, "SHUT UP!"?
Mate …. Don’t watch it then great video very informative keep doing what you are doing north woods
No audio