I remember the article online. One of the first pieces on the net that presented a procedure. But if I remember right, their main focus might have been compression. Taking several steps to do it you would sweep up the RPMs at different points and not shift but let off the gas till the car slowed. Remember that?
@@DMA-i8w I’ve definitely seen articles in different spaces but yes, you’re correct. They want compression to be where it should be by a proper rpm sweep in a single gear. Some have done it on a dyno which in theory could work with a proper load.
Back in the days the break-in periods are actually posted in the manual. Some Toyota's used to say for the first 1000 miles, no use of cruise control, no more then 70 mph, no hard braking. Some Honda's say the same but the first 600 miles.. Manufacture's have different break-in recommendations. Just to be safe go easy on the engine for the first 1000 miles...but thats just me.
@@AnythingGoesJoJo Thank you for sharing! I’m curious to see what early break-in procedure recommendations were with different techniques and technology at the time. Components were different earlier on. Some engines had cast iron components in the block and those were insanely strong. When the transition to aluminum happened, I think they recognized the components weren’t as robust and maybe implemented treating it for durability later on. Engines have advanced so far in time. What we consider standard today, would’ve been unheard of and more race oriented many decades ago. I thank motorsports for the advancements.
@@LoveLikeaHurricane It was a nice discovery indeed, as I didn’t want to spend a ton on a 2 set. I’m not a fan of the 2 ton look myself but I just use them to slide around and will most likely get beat up anyway.
The first part of my state wasn't necessary and I removed it. I apologize...I'm just saying that many people overlook the owners manual. I myself have been guilty of this. Good info, friend!
@@RAY_FILET Okay, thank you for clarifying. I did see the edit now. You’re 💯 % right, we have so much information in the manual that gets overlooked. Although on a positive note, at least some will be willing to watch or listen to information 🙂 I appreciate it!
Nice car man. I have Trueno Edition as well with 500 miles. It’s my first manual sports car. Super excited. Thanks for sharing. Best of wishes to you & your baby!
My also. I have been driving auto for over a decade and trying to get a manual. How do you do the transition? I'm a bit hesitate if I can manage the extra pedal and timings of doing it right. Please share your experiences if you could. 🙏
@@scylam1 Great question, I can share my experience with you. I learned in a parking lot, getting the hang of taking off in first gear. Honestly, that is the most difficult part, finding the engagement point with the clutch and knowing how and when to use the gas pedal. If I were you, find an empty and flat parking lot. Your mission is to release the clutch pedal (only) until you start to feel the car move forward, no gas input what so ever. Get used to where it grabs, and then learn how slow or quickly to release by watching the RPM gauge. If it dips too fast, release it slower. Once you get used to doing so smoothly without jerking or stalling, then move onto using the gas pedal. This will add a factor of engine speed getting you to take off quicker than you were. Same concept, learn to give just enough throttle, and try to keep the rpms around 2k or 1,500 but not less, while you try and engage the clutch. If you want to take off slow, give it little throttle, take off faster, more throttle and etc. Hope that helps!
my daily commute is usually traffic then a highway cruising at 60-70mph i don't rev it at all im barely at 250 miles when i accelerate it i don't let it go to a high rpm , ive always let it warm up but the oil takes forever to warm up
@@zuhlera Having that stop and go traffic helps as it sweeps through the rpm. It won’t hurt to climb higher revs, but having that mix is okay. Warm up on these do take some time, longer than a traditional inline or v-shaped engine. Sounds like you’re on the right path 🤙🏽
@@zuhlera For sure 🙌🏽 During the break in period its normal for the engine to have more metal shavings than usual. Its a precaution to get it out of your engine by starting fresh. Most of the break in happens early. Most crucial is in the first 20-50 miles, than the next few hundred solidifies that pace you began with, then the remainder to 1k is added precaution. Your dealership shouldn’t have an issue, assuming they understand the process.
Not every part is manufactured exactly the same to the nanometer. Break in shaves off any inconsistencies between the moving parts and it's mountings. Also why most first oil changes will always have more metal shavings.
Unfortunately I happened to be that idiot during testdriving my future gr86 last week...hit the revlimiter once in 1st due to not having had the right feel for the throttle yet and after that drove it considerate but going up at the rpms...not holding high rpms for long before shifting up and not having any other hard demand on the car during that drive, but the issue was that I was totally ignorant in terms of breakinperiod (even watching like 10 hours of content on youtube about the gr86 didnt mention that process) and probably generally not very knowledgeable as driving an old VW Polo in the past never demanded having good carknowledge...anyhow, hope I havent done too big of a disservice to my future car already, but if I wouldnt have accidently hit the revlimiter, I would have never read up the topic and would have still been ignorant when finally getting the car in a couple of weeks...so atleast the remaining breakinperiod I can do my best to take car of it more properly...and thanks to guys like you for putting out the information 😊
@@patricklutterbach1307 I think going to red line during the test drive is fine. The major things to look out for is proper warm up and rpm sweep under the 1k miles. I doubt you caused any true harm. My first drive after purchase was in a mountain road and it saw ALL of the rpm range, including red line. Most importantly all rpms were seen and it was at operating temperatures before I drove it in that manor. Don’t be worried, I think you’ll be fine 🙂 Glad you enjoyed the video and hope it was helpful. Congratulations on the new 86 🎉🙌🏽
@@johnrodriguez9720 I was waiting for someone to catch that! 😂🤣 Basically I bought another set for drifting. I just had swapped them for the weekend before I recorded.
@@johnrodriguez9720 Right!? Very little information out there but not many people have tried it. Apparently these are identical to base wheels on the first gen also.
what typa oil should you use in a gr86? also rpm sweeping, im not that familiar with it. Is it done stationary? or while driving? By rpm sweep you just mean go through all the rpms right?
@@Ducky-kg8lv Great questions! Oil selection depends on how you drive. If you simply commute from point A to B, the factory 20 weight oil is perfect for mpg. If you drive more spiritedly and is street driven, go up to a 30 weight. It’s a nice balance between mpg and engine protection under harsher conditions. If you plan to auto cross, drift, open course track your car, modify it heavily, etc., go to a 40 weight. It handles those extreme conditions well. Also, consider the 0.5-0.7 quart oil overfill. The break-in can be easily be done on the street. I’ve known some people to break-in their car on a dynamometer, but that may not be within everyone’s reach. Correct, you should see fluctuations of rpms, not stationary as if you’re cruising. Avoid cruising at one speed.
Should be done while driving so that there's load on the engine. Don't try to do the RPM sweep sitting in the driveway or parking lot revving in neutral. :)
Thank you guys for answering my questions. Cant fcking wait to buy my gr86 ahhaha heard theyre gonna fix a few issues with throttle response n stuff. So its gonna be easier doing heel n toe.
I got a 2024 premium. I drive that mf the way it should be drove. It's a race car don't be scared to break it. It's literally a 34k vehicle it's not expensive enough for me to baby it
@Bodangers I'd drive it the way it was made to drive lol I don't want to get old with a car and not have enjoyed it. I'd rather enjoy it the way it was supposed to be enjoyed even if it devalues it by the time I'm old.
Hallo, 61 years old here and ALWAYS drove ANY new engine hard. My motorcycles, my cars and was always getting the best numbers on the dyno then those who drove it like a pussy.
I remember the article online. One of the first pieces on the net that presented a procedure. But if I remember right, their main focus might have been compression. Taking several steps to do it you would sweep up the RPMs at different points and not shift but let off the gas till the car slowed. Remember that?
@@DMA-i8w I’ve definitely seen articles in different spaces but yes, you’re correct. They want compression to be where it should be by a proper rpm sweep in a single gear. Some have done it on a dyno which in theory could work with a proper load.
Back in the days the break-in periods are actually posted in the manual.
Some Toyota's used to say for the first 1000 miles, no use of cruise control, no more then 70 mph, no hard braking.
Some Honda's say the same but the first 600 miles..
Manufacture's have different break-in recommendations.
Just to be safe go easy on the engine for the first 1000 miles...but thats just me.
@@AnythingGoesJoJo Thank you for sharing! I’m curious to see what early break-in procedure recommendations were with different techniques and technology at the time.
Components were different earlier on. Some engines had cast iron components in the block and those were insanely strong. When the transition to aluminum happened, I think they recognized the components weren’t as robust and maybe implemented treating it for durability later on.
Engines have advanced so far in time. What we consider standard today, would’ve been unheard of and more race oriented many decades ago. I thank motorsports for the advancements.
My buddy blew up his EJ20K STI motor racing it too soon off the lot. Break in is a necessity!
@@idealdesignandconstruction5216 💯!
thats cool the 17inch wheels fit the brembos. Wished it was dark grey colored/black like the 18's though.
@@LoveLikeaHurricane It was a nice discovery indeed, as I didn’t want to spend a ton on a 2 set. I’m not a fan of the 2 ton look myself but I just use them to slide around and will most likely get beat up anyway.
It's unbelievable that people ask about what the owners manual plainly tells you. OWNERS MANUAL
@@RAY_FILET Tell me where in the manual does it explain the science and physics behind it? 🤔
The first part of my state wasn't necessary and I removed it. I apologize...I'm just saying that many people overlook the owners manual. I myself have been guilty of this. Good info, friend!
@@RAY_FILET Okay, thank you for clarifying. I did see the edit now. You’re 💯 % right, we have so much information in the manual that gets overlooked. Although on a positive note, at least some will be willing to watch or listen to information 🙂 I appreciate it!
Nice car man. I have Trueno Edition as well with 500 miles. It’s my first manual sports car. Super excited. Thanks for sharing. Best of wishes to you & your baby!
@@Chasechamberlain Then you, I appreciate it! Enjoy your Trueno as well 🙌🏽 🏎️💨
My also. I have been driving auto for over a decade and trying to get a manual. How do you do the transition? I'm a bit hesitate if I can manage the extra pedal and timings of doing it right. Please share your experiences if you could. 🙏
@@scylam1 Great question, I can share my experience with you. I learned in a parking lot, getting the hang of taking off in first gear. Honestly, that is the most difficult part, finding the engagement point with the clutch and knowing how and when to use the gas pedal. If I were you, find an empty and flat parking lot. Your mission is to release the clutch pedal (only) until you start to feel the car move forward, no gas input what so ever. Get used to where it grabs, and then learn how slow or quickly to release by watching the RPM gauge. If it dips too fast, release it slower. Once you get used to doing so smoothly without jerking or stalling, then move onto using the gas pedal. This will add a factor of engine speed getting you to take off quicker than you were. Same concept, learn to give just enough throttle, and try to keep the rpms around 2k or 1,500 but not less, while you try and engage the clutch. If you want to take off slow, give it little throttle, take off faster, more throttle and etc. Hope that helps!
@@shift__robinson thank for sharing. Will follow your suggestions. And slowly get myself into the manual world... before it becomes extinct.
@@scylam1 Anytime! It would be a fun adventure for you to try. The manual car and manual drivers are a dying breed 🥲
my daily commute is usually traffic then a highway cruising at 60-70mph i don't rev it at all im barely at 250 miles when i accelerate it i don't let it go to a high rpm , ive always let it warm up but the oil takes forever to warm up
@@zuhlera Having that stop and go traffic helps as it sweeps through the rpm. It won’t hurt to climb higher revs, but having that mix is okay. Warm up on these do take some time, longer than a traditional inline or v-shaped engine. Sounds like you’re on the right path 🤙🏽
@@shift__robinson sweet good to know 🙌 is it like a rule to have a oil change at 1,000 miles? i'm not sure if the dealer would make it a big deal
@@zuhlera For sure 🙌🏽 During the break in period its normal for the engine to have more metal shavings than usual. Its a precaution to get it out of your engine by starting fresh. Most of the break in happens early. Most crucial is in the first 20-50 miles, than the next few hundred solidifies that pace you began with, then the remainder to 1k is added precaution. Your dealership shouldn’t have an issue, assuming they understand the process.
Not every part is manufactured exactly the same to the nanometer. Break in shaves off any inconsistencies between the moving parts and it's mountings. Also why most first oil changes will always have more metal shavings.
@@mangobanana7195 I agree 💯 % 👍🏽
thanks for doing this video. I must say that so much of this break in stuff does not ring true in my R&D brain. Not that I haven't done some of it!
@@artblackwood7936 Of course, and thank you for watching! If I may ask, what are your views on it?
Unfortunately I happened to be that idiot during testdriving my future gr86 last week...hit the revlimiter once in 1st due to not having had the right feel for the throttle yet and after that drove it considerate but going up at the rpms...not holding high rpms for long before shifting up and not having any other hard demand on the car during that drive, but the issue was that I was totally ignorant in terms of breakinperiod (even watching like 10 hours of content on youtube about the gr86 didnt mention that process) and probably generally not very knowledgeable as driving an old VW Polo in the past never demanded having good carknowledge...anyhow, hope I havent done too big of a disservice to my future car already, but if I wouldnt have accidently hit the revlimiter, I would have never read up the topic and would have still been ignorant when finally getting the car in a couple of weeks...so atleast the remaining breakinperiod I can do my best to take car of it more properly...and thanks to guys like you for putting out the information 😊
@@patricklutterbach1307 I think going to red line during the test drive is fine. The major things to look out for is proper warm up and rpm sweep under the 1k miles. I doubt you caused any true harm. My first drive after purchase was in a mountain road and it saw ALL
of the rpm range, including red line. Most importantly all rpms were seen and it was at operating temperatures before I drove it in that manor. Don’t be worried, I think you’ll be fine 🙂 Glad you enjoyed the video and hope it was helpful. Congratulations on the new 86 🎉🙌🏽
@@shift__robinson Thanks alot for the response 😘
@@patricklutterbach1307 🤙🏽
Now me and the mad scientest have to replace the piston rings you frieddd
@@Tothetower4 This is a jinx free zone sir 😂
I was staring at this video for so long wondering why it looked off, why do you have base model wheels on the trueno now?
@@johnrodriguez9720 I was waiting for someone to catch that! 😂🤣
Basically I bought another set for drifting. I just had swapped them for the weekend before I recorded.
@@shift__robinson interesting! That’s good to know that our brembos fit inside base wheels 👀
@@johnrodriguez9720 Right!? Very little information out there but not many people have tried it. Apparently these are identical to base wheels on the first gen also.
I’M AT 1,645 MILES NOW ON MINE. GETTING MY FIRST OIL CHANGE SOON. WHERE YOU AT IN MILES NOW BROTHER?
@@kickdreaming Good job! I think we’re about the same miles haha I’ll check again when I drive it tomorrow but I’m definitely still under 2k miles.
@@kickdreaming Just reached 1,990 miles today 🤣
@@shift__robinson NICE! THE YEAR I WAS BORN. 😂 I’M AT 1701 NOW.
@@kickdreaming 😂 Nice, I just passed you then! I have long gaps in between driving it but when I do, I go for a couple hundred miles at a time 🤙🏽
@@shift__robinson THAT’S A GREAT NUMBER. THE YEAR I WAS BORN. I MISSED TAKING A PICTURE OF IT WHEN I REACHED 1,990 UNFORTUNATELY. 😂
Hello! What type of oil should I use during the break in? I was in a rush and couldn't see the whole video
@@Mrminecrak Hey! The oil that’s in it is fine, it’ll still do its job 👍🏽
what typa oil should you use in a gr86? also rpm sweeping, im not that familiar with it. Is it done stationary? or while driving? By rpm sweep you just mean go through all the rpms right?
@@Ducky-kg8lv Great questions! Oil selection depends on how you drive. If you simply commute from point A to B, the factory 20 weight oil is perfect for mpg. If you drive more
spiritedly and is street driven, go up to a 30 weight. It’s a nice balance between mpg and engine protection under harsher conditions. If you plan to auto cross, drift, open course track your car, modify it heavily, etc., go to a 40 weight. It handles those extreme conditions well. Also, consider the 0.5-0.7 quart oil overfill. The break-in can be easily be done on the street. I’ve known some people to break-in their car on a dynamometer, but that may not be within everyone’s reach. Correct, you should see fluctuations of rpms, not stationary as if you’re cruising. Avoid cruising at one speed.
Should be done while driving so that there's load on the engine. Don't try to do the RPM sweep sitting in the driveway or parking lot revving in neutral. :)
@@jaron95 Exactly! Driving on the road or a dyno will apply load that the engine needs for the rings to seat 👍🏽
Thank you guys for answering my questions. Cant fcking wait to buy my gr86 ahhaha heard theyre gonna fix a few issues with throttle response n stuff. So its gonna be easier doing heel n toe.
@@shift__robinson so the oil should be 0w30? for spirited stuff?
Why are the rims base?
@@1Solace Those are my drift spares I threw on it.
@@shift__robinson Lol ok, I thought they were selling Trueno editions with base rims 😂
@@1Solace Ah yes, that makes sense. I would laugh if that happened 😂
I got a 2024 premium. I drive that mf the way it should be drove. It's a race car don't be scared to break it. It's literally a 34k vehicle it's not expensive enough for me to baby it
Nice, congrats! I agree 100%, drive it how it was meant to be driven!
If it was a GR corolla, I'd be afraid of something happening to it 😅
@@Bodangers 😁🤞🏽
@Bodangers I'd drive it the way it was made to drive lol I don't want to get old with a car and not have enjoyed it. I'd rather enjoy it the way it was supposed to be enjoyed even if it devalues it by the time I'm old.
@@tannerthompson5207 It’s odd to me to see super cars and hyper cars park most of the time. I guess to some it’s just an expensive piece of art.
Hallo, 61 years old here and ALWAYS drove ANY new engine hard.
My motorcycles, my cars and was always getting the best numbers on the dyno then those who drove it like a pussy.
@@rickd955 It’s proven 👏🏽 thanks for sharing!
Bla bla blah……
@@miguelm3676 ???
@@shift__robinson This guy is one of the WRX bros who likes to turbocharge an engine with 12.5:1 compression and then hammer on it when it's cold.
@@lashlarue7924 Oh shit 💩 😂
You're too dumb to understand what he is saying anyway
@Bodangers 😅