@@marloflores8325 bruh you’d honestly be shocked how quickly some plumbers can get rough in’s done, I work as an apprentice doing rough in’s and it takes my group and I about Two and a half hours to do a one story house (that is if we don’t have excavation problems).
I'm a home designer and I have always included the brick ledge in my plan dimensions for the plumbers. The new thing that I have noticed is more people leaving out the brick in the dimensions, leaving it up to the trades to add the 5-1/2" to the total. Do plumbers measure from the inside of the form boards (which would include the brick ledge) to locate drains or do you guys measure from the outside of frame? I have argued that sometimes the brick ledge boards might not be set when you guys are roughing in drains and would measure from the actual EDGE OF SLAB? I'll continue to dimension to E.O.S. until I learn different. Thanks for any information.
Service plumber for 28 years. About 15 years ago, I worked new construction for maybe a month, 5 weeks tops. Was not for me. Too repetitive, like a factory job. With that being said, I have a lot of respect for new construction plumber's, because if that was my only option, I would hate my job. Thankfully, it's not my only option, and I own my own business, running service call's everyday. My favorite part about it, meeting new people everyday, from all walks of life. Plumbing and people are a lot like snowflakes, no 2 job's are the same, and no 2 persons are the same. God bless. Have a beautiful day everyone. Much Love and Aloha 🤙🏼💯🇺🇲
I been doing strictly residential service since 2010. I ❤ it.. I did residential construction from 2003-2010. I'm glad that I started in construction. Repetition is the best way to learn.
I did service plumbing for less than a year and over 5 years in construction. I learned a lot in the short time that I did service. From water heater installs and just cleaning out drains to repiping houses and trenchless sewer pulls, etc. Now I just do rough in plumbing from underground to top out. I think both have their good sides and bad sides. There is a huge construction boom here in Northern CA. Some of the old timers who have been plumbing since the 90's say that it never lasts forever. I'll just ride the gravy train and go back to service when it stops. Haha. Someone has to service these new houses in the future.
I’m a service technician for a big plumbing and heating company that does new construction for multi and single family homes as well as commercial. Being a service plumber, I love seeing the new plumbing on the track homes. At some point I would like to get into the field and it’s nice seeing you breaking it all down. I don’t get a lot of breakdowns on these aspects of plumbing. Thanks for your videos
Plumber apprentice here in Alaska, I mostly do rough in plumbing for brand new houses, a lot of the houses usually already have a 4in sewer main and water main in the foundation/craw space. Most of the ground roughs are in the summer or if we are tying into existing plumbing on a job inside, been plumbing for 7 months now and I enjoy watching your videos.
Lic plumber for 25 yrs+ and I do it all. When I rough in under a slab I use sand like this but I add it after my test which is a 10’ stand pipe (we are required to have a step ladder for inspector so all he has to do is go up and look)and after green tag. I will use a lil to secure everything but NEVER around joints. Once 24hrs pass with zero drop down I will go around a pack sand in all around my dwv
Hi Roger. I've been following you for a while now and really enjoy your vids. I'm a residential new construction plumber in Northern CA. We only use abs here and in our local jurisdiction everything needs to be foam wrapped that is going to be up in the concrete. The project I'm currently on are all post tension slabs. We also strap our pipes with rebar and tie wire. I've never seen conduit used to strap the pipes like in your video around here.
The same here in southern cal...everything wrapped that are to be exposed in concrete footings and slab. Rebar and tie wire used.. I've never used conduit and tape on risers. Didn't see any support under the toilet 4x3 Arizona bends either
I’m in Texas and we use rebar to secure things as well. I’ve used all thread or 1/2” black iron in a pinch but never conduit. That’s track houses for you though. Do everything the bare minimum. We wrap everything in concrete here as well. I don’t know how it’s done in Dallas but in Austin that’s a separate inspection. We have a rough inspection and a pre pour inspection. On small jobs well usually do both at the same time but big roughs like this they’ll pass it then come back and back fill and wrap anything that will be in concrete.
City water and sewer inspector from Connecticut . I like seeing how other plumbers work in the country and how different we work. We don’t allow any pex buried in the ground whatsoever. It’s k copper or 200 lbs poly and it must have a tracer wire attached for line tracing purposes. Also we require 4 inch gasketed not glued sewer pipe from the road through the foundation wall. We also require our sewer pipe outside the home to be laid in 6 inches of 1/2 or 3/4 inch crushed stone on the bottom ans 6 inches of stone on top and be wrapped in filter fabric to prevent sagging and bellies in the pipe. We used to pull deflection gauges through the pipe but now we air test the pipe then run a camera through the pipe to make sure it’s free of debris. If it’s clean we will run some water through and then a camera to make sure there isn’t and sagging or crushed pipe. It may seem like a lot but we have had some sloppy installs in the past that has forced us to make sure the home owner doesn’t have any clogs or rocks and debris don’t get into our pumps.
I work for a plumbing company and install new plumbing in houses that are being built. I don't know this aspect in this video because our ground crew does that. I go in and run all the plumbing and water lines and tie the plumbing into all of this and the water coming into the house is usually 1" pex and I reduce it to 3/4" pex and run 1/2" pex from the 3/4" to the bathrooms, laundry room, and kitchen. Pretty neat video! Thanks!
I started in commercial new construction and remodel plumbing in St Louis from 18 to 20 years old and went to Ranken Tech for a plumbing certificate. graduated in 2020 im 22 now and i work with one other very intellectual guy and we do absolutely everything except for hooking up frion and some other hvac stuff. We mostly remodel historic homes a lot from around the 1920’s and older I couldnt be happier with what im doing and my capability to learn has acted like compound interest its insane and it feels unstoppable as long as you apply yourself, take pride in your craft and stay curious. Hope this inspires even just one person
I enjoy watching you I've been a licensed plumber for 40 years I'd like a 3" main line because of the gallon 1/2 flush toilets I've had too many customers that use heavy toilet paper and if there's not a washing machine behind it we end up with a ventral blockage and a in blockage in a in a 3" line let alone a 4" line 4" does not have enough water surface for a for a gallon and a 1/2 flush toilets and the water water level seems to be going down on those I live in Tennessee and we have the International code which is a little bit different than the Texas code and I understand that And before I was in Tennessee I lived in was licensed in the state of Michigan so that's got tough plumbing code laws also Most of the rough inside do are crawl spaces we don't do as many slabs as you guys do But we can also run our PEX under slab without being insulated when we can run at the same way that we used to run copper just make junctions in certain walls are under bathtubs things like that
Lee, I’m with you on this one. If you have too large of pipe or too much grade, your liquids will outrun your solids. Low flow fixtures especially are a concern. Bigger isn’t always better.
One thing we mainly do different is using 1-1/2 black poly and running it up into the house and pulling pex through to feed the house. Its normally installed on the left or right exterior wall
I'm a 3rd year with the local 68 doing mainly new construction . Haven't done a rough in yet and haven't done residential . This video us really informative
I've been plumbing for a little over three years, I have about 7700 hours and I have only worked new construction. Every rough in I've been on, I have also done the topout and setout. I guess being a somewhat small company, we don't specialize in anything other than new con and service.
23 years, self employed since 2006. Everything from residential & commercial service work, drain cleaning, smoke testing, sewer digs, gas piping, steam and hot water boilers, backflow prevention, high end new construction and remodels are my wheel house since that’s what I grew up doing.
The reason for switching from 4 to 3 is maybe because there are not enough DFU to warrant a 4 in pipe. Too large of a waste pipe will result in insufficient water needed to scour pipe.
im a plumber/gasfitter in New Zealand, we have a huge amount of domestic construction work here, we call your rough in a "pipe out" and we do a lot of it, most of us here do the job start to finish pre slab, pipe out, fitt off, we use a similar pet pipe with metal crimp fittings, however ou drainage/rough in wastes are far different, looks like you use a fully vented system where we use what is called "single stack modified" or single stack=less vents and bigger pipe size
Used to rough up to 3 slabs in a summer day digging by hand. Me and one other guy. We buried our plumbing in the gravel set for the monolithic style slab.
In Connecticut it’s code they have four-inch penetrate the building and a standard residential roof in. But have you seen prices lately 4 inch PVC is astronomical
Im in new construction. We hit 2 rough-ins a day most days and maybe 4 a day if we're working far from the shop. We also do Stack-outs and Fixture installation once they get in the coutertops and bathroom floors. No lunch breaks or anything. You hiring?
In colorado we call that the underground, what you would call a top out is what we actually call a rough-in, to be fair we have mostly crawl spaces in the area though (yes slabs are getting more and more popular every year and theres a bunch of those as well)
I've never seen the home owner valve under the ground. Here in Phoenix they are on the side of the house where it comes out of the ground and 90° into the wall. I live in a new built house and did my walk throughs and own inspections too. Here the sewer water rest for new homes is a 10' stand pipe at the back with balloon blocking at sewer and it has to hold that 10' stand full for 7 days
Some rough in crews can do up to 5 per day, so they are moving hundred miles an hour slapping primer, glue and holding for half a second and on to the next fitting. Leaks on rough in is very common.
My wife in early 90’s when construction slowed, wanted me to get into residential plumbing. Because the rush in, rush out, I saw crappy work being done (often back fall on horizontals). I take pride in my work and couldn’t work like that. I’ve been a plumber for over 30 years, but I’m not actively working in the trade for over 25 years, mostly just side jobs.
Where I am in the PNW what you call a "rough-in" we call a groundwork that being anything under a slab and we only go as far as 5ft outside the building what we call a rough in is all of your waste and water in the crawl (if applicable)through the walls all the way to the vents through the roof as well as setting tubs or showers. lastly would be trim such as toilets, tanks, or any other fixtures after sheetrock and such has been done. I myself do both groundwork and rough-in plumbing which in the winter can be quite messy but anything beats service work 🤣
As a Canadian, I notice many of your houses are slab on grade. Do you not have many homes with basements? I know your services aren’t as deep as ours are in Canada because of cold/freezing conditions.
If this Rough in was in Austin TX, it would fail completely under the UPC code. 1. I would put a 6"SDR36 Clean out instead of the 4"sch40 2. The drain exiting the house by code has to be 4" and right where it exits, there should be a 6" minimum sleve to protect it a little from foundation movement. 3. The sewer line has to be 4" Sch 40 by code and tie into the 6" sdr36 tap left by the city or municipality. The sewer line is also missing a tracer cable for future pipe locating preferably single strand 4. Whenever the sewer line is less than 12" in depth, it has to be Cast iron 5. By code the water yardline has to be a minimum of 5' separated from the sewer line to prevent contamination invase a trench or repair is done on any of them. The water yardline is missing a tracer wire for future locating. A valve by the water meter, PRV and in some water districts a Dual check valve 7 watts, but i assume he will install this later. Here in Austin when the meter is not present, the plumber has to connect the water meter nut with the meter nipple with a woden Dowell and with the correct house adress otherwise it will fail. 6. 10:57 Thats not how you vent a Toilet, the toilet has to be the main and then you can put a Wye to vent it. Preferably if it's stacked into a sanitary Tee is the best way. 7. Studor vents prohibited, unless the slab is existing and they chose to put a island 8. 6' head test is fine but some jurisdictions require a 10' head. Also you have to make sure you bleed the air out of all the vents by penetrating the test caps with a screw or by using T cone plugs. 9. I was not able to read what schedule the pipe was inside the house but defenetly the sewer line outside had cellular core wich is prohibited for understanding This is not a good Plumbing Rough-in 😕
Regarding 10:57 comment on the way the toilet is vented in this ground work, in the Seattle area we have to roll off a Y branch on the horizontal drain so that the bottom of the vent is rolled up to at least the midway point of the drain it serves. But it's always nice to be able to flat vent when applicable. But nice video Roger!
Here in ca. on a rough in we have to use a 10’ head on the fill up pipe for test….. ive been a plumber for over 25 yrs started at service work and worked all diffrent phases… my favorite though would be commercail new construction…ive plumbed almost all the starbucks,mc. Donalds, and walmarts here in ca.
@@RogerWakefield the starbucks were usually 1 week turn arounds on the remodels…close sunday night open the follwing sunday morning….mc donalds around 1 month, walmarts would be around 6 months with lots of follow up fine tuning customer service visits etc.etc.etc!!!…but walmarts were the funnest as well using the large scissor lifts and heavy equip……just very time consuming and miles and miles of pipe per store
Roger, as a rough in plumber from the North, I have to disagree with your comment about bringing up your waterline to a valve in the garage. While this may work in Texas, it doesn't work anywhere that has a real winter. The garage is considered a cold space, weather or not it is heated. I do like you comments on bringing 4" all the way in. Based on code where I live it is required to bring 4" into the building, and depending on the province i work in, code says we have to take 4" all the way to our main stack, with a 4x3x4 cleanout tee.
We live in MN. We have a main water shut off access in our driveway that is covered. But we also have a shutoff in the basement that is clearly marked with florescent paint and a sign by the plumber. Plus each shutoff (PEX system) is clearly labeled.
I was thinking the same as far as the water main, nothing on exterior walls or garages due to same issues. But for this video it's good for people who just want to see an idea but you should always refer to state and local codes before hand
Here you have to have 4” gasket outside the foundo. I like a shut off at the mech room or garage…I do a loop with shut off/prv/expansion tank. The water heater is usually in the garage so to me no real difference having the main in there as well…it would only make sense to not have it there if the water heater wasn’t there either. I live in the north and haven’t had an issue…just don’t leave the garage door open when it’s cold
Nice video but a little misleading, Florida plumber for 25 years plumbers don't make the decision whether to install 3" or 4" pipe in any application the size of the pipe is determined by how many fixture units is served.
I’d have to argue that that’s a good rough. I know foam core is legal but I wouldn’t use it. Also, the 3” is terrible. We saw two toilets downstairs. One was a half bath. There’s two 3” risers that could possibly go upstairs. If there’s 4 toilets that’s illegal though I think they said in a recent CE class that there would no longer be a 3 toilet limit on 3” and it would go based strictly on fixture units. Even if 3” is legal for the needs of this house, I’d still run a 4” main. It looks like they’re maxing out that 3”. It’s hard to tell from the video but all the lines in the master bath were laying flat which means the vents would be cut off. That being said I haven’t done a whole lot of residential so I’m not as familiar with bathroom groups. We vent everything individually but I know there’s some different things allowed in a bathroom group where you can have one vent for all of it. That’s the downside to track houses. They do everything as cheap as possible. They won’t spend the extra for schedule 40 or even 4” pipe apparently. I would criticize not being prepared for inspection but I worked for a company for years that took on way more work than they could handle. They constantly sent us to a job with the inspection already called in and we had to work as late as need be to hit it. This doesn’t give you enough time to check everything. I would also not bed as much as they did so you can find leaks easier. It really only needs to be supported on the bottom half. A tip for preventing leaks on pvc is bevel your pipe. I cut my teeth in a small town without inspections. So we’d always just run water through it rather than pressure test it. This means we didn’t have to worry about leaks really because you really have to mess up a glue joint for it to leak in general use. However when I moved to Austin and had to put a 5’ head on every rough, I had more leaks than I should have. Then I started properly beveling everything piece of pipe I cut and it all but ended my issue with leaks. You just have to take off the 90 degree angle from the cut. If you don’t it can push most of the glue out. Just scraping off tue edge with a knife can make a huge difference but I bought a reed beveling tool that works great.
Of all my complaining about track houses cutting corners I’ll give them props on using insulation around the water line even if it wasn’t done very well. They could have used plastic sleeve. They probably could have used nothing. I think you can run bare pex under a slab. I can’t remember because it’s not a rule I’d ever worry about because I always use insulation or pipe sleeve for repairs and trap primers. It seems like everyone tunnels nowadays but when I was coming up in west Texas we fix leaks under slab a little different but it has to be run in insulation to do it. We would cut the loop with the leak on both ends. It was usually soft copper. On one end we’d attach a new piece of pex. On the others we’d attach a chain to it and with a hi lift Jack pull it out while simultaneously pulling the pex through. Attach it back on both ends and bobs your uncle. I assume the reason we didnt tunnel is because 1)there was 3 of us and 2) the ground is all sand and rock.
I can't help but emphasize the habbit/structure of beveling and reaming all my pipes for the most part. Ensure security with my install and it doesn't hurt to do things the right way. Always teach this to people that are learning.
I gotta say your videos are awesome and funny. I would like to ask what is the best way to adding additional 1st floor underground drain-line close to the perimeter area for a residential post tension slab foundation assuming below the slab foundation with 5-6" of concrete, the setup is grid waffle like trenches typically every 4 feet or so? To tie into & sloping towards existing drain line 7 feet away? I appreciate the help & recommendation.
Can you get anymore sloppier with the primer? I know its gonna be underground and nobody will see it, but I was always taught to take pride in my work and keep everything clean and dont just slop purple primer on excessively and have it drip everywhere.
Howdy roger Kentucky journeyman 25 years ky has its own code no studor vents allowed all fixtures have to be individually vented 4 inch sewer minium from tap to house interesting what is allowed in in state and isn't in another
@@moneyshot7775 yes Kentucky has Master license in order to own a plumbing business you have to be a master plumber in the state of Kentucky I personally do not want to have a business of my own
First question is did they set the plumbing bedore they did a build and did you get to fix the problems you found? The installation of or and thin insullation worry me too.
If your drain line is 1/4" per foot slope (2 1/2 in per 10') and you put a 90 degree to a toilet or vent, your toilet flange or vent will also be sloped at 1/4" per foot. How do you compensate for that slope to get a true and plumb flange or vent without putting the pipe under stress?
Level your fittings and not your pipe also its fine if it wiring the trap arm distance to the vent as it goes into the drain thru a bend no worries buddy lol
Im a master plumber here in Texas for 30 years now. Cool video but my question is why do u call yourself the expert plumber when it took you many years to get your license?
Great Video, Roger just got a quote here in Ft.Worth to install a water shut off on a 1983 home for $950.00 between the meter and the house and doesn't look complicated looks straight forward. Plumber was called out for possible slab leak but plumber stated a water shut off was needed first to find the leak. Seems a little high, am I wrong? thanks
Hell yeah thats too high! Should be somewhere around $95-125 an hour and shouldn't take more than 2 hours tops. $250 labor at the max plus your parts cost. Damn
@@tannerwest6823 Thanks Tanner for the response. Its been hard finding good plumbers in the DFW area that charge a fair rate , Show up and do a good job.
Hey Wakefield, please do a show on Zurn pex B with expansion joints, is it better than Uponor pex A, due to more psi strength in the pipe and less toxins leaking into the water, also USA made. I'm looking to repipe and found this product, please give us your thoughts. Thanks
I hate new construction and rough ins. Lose money, big pain in the ass with inspectors. Never again. Make more on service calls and no inspections most of the time and I get paid quicker.
Snake the plumbing from the roof vents, don't bring that nasty old cable machine into your customers home. Spend the money on medium bodied grey glue, clear sucks. Like the clean fill. If that is a live line to the second floor in the master, that group is improperly vented.
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I do new construction I do rough ins fairly often. It's always cool seeing people talk about what you do and work around everyday. plumber nation!
About how long does it take for a rough in to be installed before the foundation is poured?
@@marloflores8325 bruh you’d honestly be shocked how quickly some plumbers can get rough in’s done, I work as an apprentice doing rough in’s and it takes my group and I about Two and a half hours to do a one story house (that is if we don’t have excavation problems).
I'm a home designer and I have always included the brick ledge in my plan dimensions for the plumbers. The new thing that I have noticed is more people leaving out the brick in the dimensions, leaving it up to the trades to add the 5-1/2" to the total. Do plumbers measure from the inside of the form boards (which would include the brick ledge) to locate drains or do you guys measure from the outside of frame? I have argued that sometimes the brick ledge boards might not be set when you guys are roughing in drains and would measure from the actual EDGE OF SLAB? I'll continue to dimension to E.O.S. until I learn different. Thanks for any information.
@@marloflores8325if everything is good maybe half a day depends on size and amount of people and all kinds of different things
Service plumber for 28 years. About 15 years ago, I worked new construction for maybe a month, 5 weeks tops. Was not for me. Too repetitive, like a factory job. With that being said, I have a lot of respect for new construction plumber's, because if that was my only option, I would hate my job. Thankfully, it's not my only option, and I own my own business, running service call's everyday. My favorite part about it, meeting new people everyday, from all walks of life. Plumbing and people are a lot like snowflakes, no 2 job's are the same, and no 2 persons are the same.
God bless.
Have a beautiful day everyone.
Much Love and Aloha 🤙🏼💯🇺🇲
I been doing strictly residential service since 2010. I ❤ it.. I did residential construction from 2003-2010. I'm glad that I started in construction. Repetition is the best way to learn.
I did service plumbing for less than a year and over 5 years in construction. I learned a lot in the short time that I did service. From water heater installs and just cleaning out drains to repiping houses and trenchless sewer pulls, etc. Now I just do rough in plumbing from underground to top out. I think both have their good sides and bad sides. There is a huge construction boom here in Northern CA. Some of the old timers who have been plumbing since the 90's say that it never lasts forever. I'll just ride the gravy train and go back to service when it stops. Haha. Someone has to service these new houses in the future.
I’m a service technician for a big plumbing and heating company that does new construction for multi and single family homes as well as commercial. Being a service plumber, I love seeing the new plumbing on the track homes. At some point I would like to get into the field and it’s nice seeing you breaking it all down. I don’t get a lot of breakdowns on these aspects of plumbing. Thanks for your videos
Saskatchewan Canada plumber here and we use abs pipe for residential houses
I done residential service work, commercial service work and now I do multi-family new construction !!!!! Been doing for 15 yrs I’m only 34
Plumber apprentice here in Alaska, I mostly do rough in plumbing for brand new houses, a lot of the houses usually already have a 4in sewer main and water main in the foundation/craw space. Most of the ground roughs are in the summer or if we are tying into existing plumbing on a job inside, been plumbing for 7 months now and I enjoy watching your videos.
What's the frostline in Alaska 😦😦
What the pay over there ?
Here in NC would call that a slab and the rough in would be after the house is framed and trim out would be setting fixtures
Lic plumber for 25 yrs+ and I do it all. When I rough in under a slab I use sand like this but I add it after my test which is a 10’ stand pipe (we are required to have a step ladder for inspector so all he has to do is go up and look)and after green tag. I will use a lil to secure everything but NEVER around joints. Once 24hrs pass with zero drop down I will go around a pack sand in all around my dwv
Hi Roger. I've been following you for a while now and really enjoy your vids. I'm a residential new construction plumber in Northern CA. We only use abs here and in our local jurisdiction everything needs to be foam wrapped that is going to be up in the concrete. The project I'm currently on are all post tension slabs. We also strap our pipes with rebar and tie wire. I've never seen conduit used to strap the pipes like in your video around here.
The same here in southern cal...everything wrapped that are to be exposed in concrete footings and slab. Rebar and tie wire used.. I've never used conduit and tape on risers. Didn't see any support under the toilet 4x3 Arizona bends either
I’m in Texas and we use rebar to secure things as well. I’ve used all thread or 1/2” black iron in a pinch but never conduit. That’s track houses for you though. Do everything the bare minimum. We wrap everything in concrete here as well. I don’t know how it’s done in Dallas but in Austin that’s a separate inspection. We have a rough inspection and a pre pour inspection. On small jobs well usually do both at the same time but big roughs like this they’ll pass it then come back and back fill and wrap anything that will be in concrete.
City water and sewer inspector from Connecticut . I like seeing how other plumbers work in the country and how different we work. We don’t allow any pex buried in the ground whatsoever. It’s k copper or 200 lbs poly and it must have a tracer wire attached for line tracing purposes. Also we require 4 inch gasketed not glued sewer pipe from the road through the foundation wall. We also require our sewer pipe outside the home to be laid in 6 inches of 1/2 or 3/4 inch crushed stone on the bottom ans 6 inches of stone on top and be wrapped in filter fabric to prevent sagging and bellies in the pipe. We used to pull deflection gauges through the pipe but now we air test the pipe then run a camera through the pipe to make sure it’s free of debris. If it’s clean we will run some water through and then a camera to make sure there isn’t and sagging or crushed pipe. It may seem like a lot but we have had some sloppy installs in the past that has forced us to make sure the home owner doesn’t have any clogs or rocks and debris don’t get into our pumps.
I love this! Thank you for doing things right!
Too many rules.
3" pipe gives more float than 4" pipe, especially with theses low volume flush toilets.
Here in VA we call this a groundwork. Installing plumbing in a framed house we call a rough in
Here in Texas that's a top out...
I work for a plumbing company and install new plumbing in houses that are being built. I don't know this aspect in this video because our ground crew does that. I go in and run all the plumbing and water lines and tie the plumbing into all of this and the water coming into the house is usually 1" pex and I reduce it to 3/4" pex and run 1/2" pex from the 3/4" to the bathrooms, laundry room, and kitchen. Pretty neat video! Thanks!
I started in commercial new construction and remodel plumbing in St Louis from 18 to 20 years old and went to Ranken Tech for a plumbing certificate. graduated in 2020 im 22 now and i work with one other very intellectual guy and we do absolutely everything except for hooking up frion and some other hvac stuff. We mostly remodel historic homes a lot from around the 1920’s and older I couldnt be happier with what im doing and my capability to learn has acted like compound interest its insane and it feels unstoppable as long as you apply yourself, take pride in your craft and stay curious. Hope this inspires even just one person
Good for you
I know its easy to take out your insecurities on other people, but you need to take that negative energy to something more productive
I enjoy watching you I've been a licensed plumber for 40 years I'd like a 3" main line because of the gallon 1/2 flush toilets I've had too many customers that use heavy toilet paper and if there's not a washing machine behind it we end up with a ventral blockage and a in blockage in a in a 3" line let alone a 4" line 4" does not have enough water surface for a for a gallon and a 1/2 flush toilets and the water water level seems to be going down on those I live in Tennessee and we have the International code which is a little bit different than the Texas code and I understand that And before I was in Tennessee I lived in was licensed in the state of Michigan so that's got tough plumbing code laws also Most of the rough inside do are crawl spaces we don't do as many slabs as you guys do But we can also run our PEX under slab without being insulated when we can run at the same way that we used to run copper just make junctions in certain walls are under bathtubs things like that
Lee, I’m with you on this one. If you have too large of pipe or too much grade, your liquids will outrun your solids. Low flow fixtures especially are a concern.
Bigger isn’t always better.
One thing we mainly do different is using 1-1/2 black poly and running it up into the house and pulling pex through to feed the house. Its normally installed on the left or right exterior wall
I'm a 3rd year with the local 68 doing mainly new construction . Haven't done a rough in yet and haven't done residential . This video us really informative
Love doing rough in, top outs, and trimming out the house.
I've been plumbing for a little over three years, I have about 7700 hours and I have only worked new construction. Every rough in I've been on, I have also done the topout and setout. I guess being a somewhat small company, we don't specialize in anything other than new con and service.
Lucky you. I always get trim after idiots who don't know how to rough in. So I get to be MacGyver plumber.
23 years, self employed since 2006. Everything from residential & commercial service work, drain cleaning, smoke testing, sewer digs, gas piping, steam and hot water boilers, backflow prevention, high end new construction and remodels are my wheel house since that’s what I grew up doing.
The reason for switching from 4 to 3 is maybe because there are not enough DFU to warrant a 4 in pipe. Too large of a waste pipe will result in insufficient water needed to scour pipe.
Exactly
im a plumber/gasfitter in New Zealand, we have a huge amount of domestic construction work here, we call your rough in a "pipe out" and we do a lot of it, most of us here do the job start to finish pre slab, pipe out, fitt off, we use a similar pet pipe with metal crimp fittings, however ou drainage/rough in wastes are far different, looks like you use a fully vented system where we use what is called "single stack modified" or single stack=less vents and bigger pipe size
I did mainly new residential rough ins for 12 years. Fixing to do a commercial rough in in San Antonio when I'm done with lunch.
Used to rough up to 3 slabs in a summer day digging by hand. Me and one other guy. We buried our plumbing in the gravel set for the monolithic style slab.
I've done construction for a long time but now I'm an inspector. I don't believe I can ever stop learning about construction.
In Connecticut it’s code they have four-inch penetrate the building and a standard residential roof in. But have you seen prices lately 4 inch PVC is astronomical
these are videos ive been waiting for
Been a plumber 7years Do it everyday my guy it's the best job ever
Roger make a video on how you layout a rough in
Im in new construction. We hit 2 rough-ins a day most days and maybe 4 a day if we're working far from the shop. We also do Stack-outs and Fixture installation once they get in the coutertops and bathroom floors. No lunch breaks or anything. You hiring?
Well done Roger
New construction, I’ve done top out, and currently rough-in on my own a week and need to get faster.
love the flushing sound as you walk out of a porta potty😂
In colorado we call that the underground, what you would call a top out is what we actually call a rough-in, to be fair we have mostly crawl spaces in the area though (yes slabs are getting more and more popular every year and theres a bunch of those as well)
As a GC, I love your videos. They have given me more insight onto different things to look for on my projects.
Great to hear, good luck on future projects Bruce!
I once used a 42" steal pipe wrench to tighten drill casing on a hydraulic drill. It snapped it in two like nothing!
I've never seen the home owner valve under the ground. Here in Phoenix they are on the side of the house where it comes out of the ground and 90° into the wall. I live in a new built house and did my walk throughs and own inspections too. Here the sewer water rest for new homes is a 10' stand pipe at the back with balloon blocking at sewer and it has to hold that 10' stand full for 7 days
We do the same here, all depends on the city's code inspection , everywhere is slightly different
I'm in California and code is same basically, except for leaving the test for 7 days? Seems a bit much.
Some rough in crews can do up to 5 per day, so they are moving hundred miles an hour slapping primer, glue and holding for half a second and on to the next fitting. Leaks on rough in is very common.
My wife in early 90’s when construction slowed, wanted me to get into residential plumbing. Because the rush in, rush out, I saw crappy work being done (often back fall on horizontals). I take pride in my work and couldn’t work like that. I’ve been a plumber for over 30 years, but I’m not actively working in the trade for over 25 years, mostly just side jobs.
Where I am in the PNW what you call a "rough-in" we call a groundwork that being anything under a slab and we only go as far as 5ft outside the building what we call a rough in is all of your waste and water in the crawl (if applicable)through the walls all the way to the vents through the roof as well as setting tubs or showers. lastly would be trim such as toilets, tanks, or any other fixtures after sheetrock and such has been done. I myself do both groundwork and rough-in plumbing which in the winter can be quite messy but anything beats service work 🤣
I'm a plummer from nz 5 years experience we call 'rough ins' pre slabs some of them can be a nightmare getting everything exactly in its right place
Great video. I’m a owner builder and doing my rough in now. You taught me a few things I would have done wrong so many thanks.
402Plumbing Services in Omaha Nebraska. Shout out to my Plumbers!
As a Canadian, I notice many of your houses are slab on grade. Do you not have many homes with basements? I know your services aren’t as deep as ours are in Canada because of cold/freezing conditions.
Holy f*** a three inch main is wild. We’re all 6 inch SDR 26/35 from the end of the building drain all the way to the city.
this video is unironically hilarious
He is the chuck nortis of plumbing! He was able to flush the toilet in the ports potty!
If this Rough in was in Austin TX, it would fail completely under the UPC code.
1. I would put a 6"SDR36 Clean out instead of the 4"sch40
2. The drain exiting the house by code has to be 4" and right where it exits, there should be a 6" minimum sleve to protect it a little from foundation movement.
3. The sewer line has to be 4" Sch 40 by code and tie into the 6" sdr36 tap left by the city or municipality. The sewer line is also missing a tracer cable for future pipe locating preferably single strand
4. Whenever the sewer line is less than 12" in depth, it has to be Cast iron
5. By code the water yardline has to be a minimum of 5' separated from the sewer line to prevent contamination invase a trench or repair is done on any of them. The water yardline is missing a tracer wire for future locating. A valve by the water meter, PRV and in some water districts a Dual check valve 7 watts, but i assume he will install this later. Here in Austin when the meter is not present, the plumber has to connect the water meter nut with the meter nipple with a woden Dowell and with the correct house adress otherwise it will fail.
6. 10:57 Thats not how you vent a Toilet, the toilet has to be the main and then you can put a Wye to vent it. Preferably if it's stacked into a sanitary Tee is the best way.
7. Studor vents prohibited, unless the slab is existing and they chose to put a island
8. 6' head test is fine but some jurisdictions require a 10' head. Also you have to make sure you bleed the air out of all the vents by penetrating the test caps with a screw or by using T cone plugs.
9. I was not able to read what schedule the pipe was inside the house but defenetly the sewer line outside had cellular core wich is prohibited for understanding
This is not a good Plumbing Rough-in 😕
Interesting, looked like a good rough to me. Would pass where I live no problem.. have never seen 6” ran, for a residential sewer
Codes vary depending on where you live. I do agree with you on 10:57. I don't think that should pass. But maybe they allow it in that area.
@@strangeroamer3219 agreed
Regarding 10:57 comment on the way the toilet is vented in this ground work, in the Seattle area we have to roll off a Y branch on the horizontal drain so that the bottom of the vent is rolled up to at least the midway point of the drain it serves. But it's always nice to be able to flat vent when applicable. But nice video Roger!
about 10:57 toilet wet-vent it is totally allowed by IPC, which is the same used in San Antonio, Tx.
Here in ca. on a rough in we have to use a 10’ head on the fill up pipe for test….. ive been a plumber for over 25 yrs started at service work and worked all diffrent phases… my favorite though would be commercail new construction…ive plumbed almost all the starbucks,mc. Donalds, and walmarts here in ca.
That's awesome. How long do those projects usually last?
@@RogerWakefield the starbucks were usually 1 week turn arounds on the remodels…close sunday night open the follwing sunday morning….mc donalds around 1 month, walmarts would be around 6 months with lots of follow up fine tuning customer service visits etc.etc.etc!!!…but walmarts were the funnest as well using the large scissor lifts and heavy equip……just very time consuming and miles and miles of pipe per store
Roger, as a rough in plumber from the North, I have to disagree with your comment about bringing up your waterline to a valve in the garage. While this may work in Texas, it doesn't work anywhere that has a real winter. The garage is considered a cold space, weather or not it is heated.
I do like you comments on bringing 4" all the way in. Based on code where I live it is required to bring 4" into the building, and depending on the province i work in, code says we have to take 4" all the way to our main stack, with a 4x3x4 cleanout tee.
We live in MN. We have a main water shut off access in our driveway that is covered. But we also have a shutoff in the basement that is clearly marked with florescent paint and a sign by the plumber. Plus each shutoff (PEX system) is clearly labeled.
I was thinking the same as far as the water main, nothing on exterior walls or garages due to same issues. But for this video it's good for people who just want to see an idea but you should always refer to state and local codes before hand
Thats why you disagree with him , our weather compared to y'alls weather is totally different
Here you have to have 4” gasket outside the foundo. I like a shut off at the mech room or garage…I do a loop with shut off/prv/expansion tank. The water heater is usually in the garage so to me no real difference having the main in there as well…it would only make sense to not have it there if the water heater wasn’t there either. I live in the north and haven’t had an issue…just don’t leave the garage door open when it’s cold
Nice video but a little misleading, Florida plumber for 25 years plumbers don't make the decision whether to install 3" or 4" pipe in any application the size of the pipe is determined by how many fixture units is served.
I still prefer to upsize to avoid clogged toilets. Just like I prefer to upsize PEX to have proper water flow....
Damn. We go 4" front to back and break off for drainage stacks at 3 inch. Running the whole thing in 3" sounds insane.
Contractors make me get all of the dirt out of the house in backfill my ditches with gravel
I’d have to argue that that’s a good rough. I know foam core is legal but I wouldn’t use it. Also, the 3” is terrible. We saw two toilets downstairs. One was a half bath. There’s two 3” risers that could possibly go upstairs. If there’s 4 toilets that’s illegal though I think they said in a recent CE class that there would no longer be a 3 toilet limit on 3” and it would go based strictly on fixture units. Even if 3” is legal for the needs of this house, I’d still run a 4” main. It looks like they’re maxing out that 3”. It’s hard to tell from the video but all the lines in the master bath were laying flat which means the vents would be cut off. That being said I haven’t done a whole lot of residential so I’m not as familiar with bathroom groups. We vent everything individually but I know there’s some different things allowed in a bathroom group where you can have one vent for all of it. That’s the downside to track houses. They do everything as cheap as possible. They won’t spend the extra for schedule 40 or even 4” pipe apparently.
I would criticize not being prepared for inspection but I worked for a company for years that took on way more work than they could handle. They constantly sent us to a job with the inspection already called in and we had to work as late as need be to hit it. This doesn’t give you enough time to check everything. I would also not bed as much as they did so you can find leaks easier. It really only needs to be supported on the bottom half. A tip for preventing leaks on pvc is bevel your pipe. I cut my teeth in a small town without inspections. So we’d always just run water through it rather than pressure test it. This means we didn’t have to worry about leaks really because you really have to mess up a glue joint for it to leak in general use. However when I moved to Austin and had to put a 5’ head on every rough, I had more leaks than I should have. Then I started properly beveling everything piece of pipe I cut and it all but ended my issue with leaks. You just have to take off the 90 degree angle from the cut. If you don’t it can push most of the glue out. Just scraping off tue edge with a knife can make a huge difference but I bought a reed beveling tool that works great.
Of all my complaining about track houses cutting corners I’ll give them props on using insulation around the water line even if it wasn’t done very well. They could have used plastic sleeve. They probably could have used nothing. I think you can run bare pex under a slab. I can’t remember because it’s not a rule I’d ever worry about because I always use insulation or pipe sleeve for repairs and trap primers. It seems like everyone tunnels nowadays but when I was coming up in west Texas we fix leaks under slab a little different but it has to be run in insulation to do it. We would cut the loop with the leak on both ends. It was usually soft copper. On one end we’d attach a new piece of pex. On the others we’d attach a chain to it and with a hi lift Jack pull it out while simultaneously pulling the pex through. Attach it back on both ends and bobs your uncle. I assume the reason we didnt tunnel is because 1)there was 3 of us and 2) the ground is all sand and rock.
I can't help but emphasize the habbit/structure of beveling and reaming all my pipes for the most part. Ensure security with my install and it doesn't hurt to do things the right way. Always teach this to people that are learning.
Materials are way to expensive right now to be adding valves for convenience.
Plumber from Maryland, only wyes and long pattern fittings allowed underground here. That tee for the powder room is a no here.
I’ve done a rough-in before but I’ve never really understood how it works.
I believe 4" Should be roughed to the first toilet group cause the # of water closets on 3" waste.
Those jeans got some great creases right down the middle
I know a good crease guy
"Hey Roger, in my state we call it this, no we call it that"...WHO GIVES A DAMN
I have been doing roughs since 1979.
If i ever make my dream home I'd make it on pier and beam just so i could have access to the rough plumbing.
Been a service plumber the whole time
My man looking like he ready to throw some chingasos! Thanks for the info Roger.
In Kentucky you have to dry vent your plumbing
Working towards getting registered as apprentice, looking at your rough in and top out videos to get a rough idea of the process :)
Sending love from uk
That powder room you were talking about the sink doesn’t go behind the toilet…
Roger right ... always use 4" ....saves you problems in the long run ...
I thought you needed to put Comby either
10ock or 2ock , not on it's side ...
Combo can't stand up. Flat it can roll anywhere.
Good stuff Roger‼️
I appreciate it
Where’s Pauly?.
“Dallas County Plumbers”
Merch coming soon...
Good job
I gotta say your videos are awesome and funny. I would like to ask what is the best way to adding additional 1st floor underground drain-line close to the perimeter area for a residential post tension slab foundation assuming below the slab foundation with 5-6" of concrete, the setup is grid waffle like trenches typically every 4 feet or so? To tie into & sloping towards existing drain line 7 feet away? I appreciate the help & recommendation.
Can you get anymore sloppier with the primer? I know its gonna be underground and nobody will see it, but I was always taught to take pride in my work and keep everything clean and dont just slop purple primer on excessively and have it drip everywhere.
These houses have no basements.
True.....basements in the southern states are quite rare (and for good reason too as they're often more trouble than they're worth down here!).
That 3” sewer should have been a 4”
Howdy roger Kentucky journeyman 25 years ky has its own code no studor vents allowed all fixtures have to be individually vented 4 inch sewer minium from tap to house interesting what is allowed in in state and isn't in another
Someone at my job decided to studor vent a whole house. No pipe through the roof. Hes no longer with us
That'd be a whole lota vents in a commercial building.
25 years as a journeyman plumber?? Does Kentucky not offer Master plumber endorsements??
@@moneyshot7775 yes Kentucky has Master license in order to own a plumbing business you have to be a master plumber in the state of Kentucky I personally do not want to have a business of my own
Just put a 4inch discharge line in between floor joists in a bathroom addition, why would anyone with a choice use a 3 inch discharge in the ground?
Great video… deserves thousands upon thousands of 👍
Wow, thank you!
First question is did they set the plumbing bedore they did a build and did you get to fix the problems you found? The installation of or and thin insullation worry me too.
Use sanitizer coming out the portacan.
Are those vents up to code? Didn't see any on the p traps?
If your drain line is 1/4" per foot slope (2 1/2 in per 10') and you put a 90 degree to a toilet or vent, your toilet flange or vent will also be sloped at 1/4" per foot. How do you compensate for that slope to get a true and plumb flange or vent without putting the pipe under stress?
Level your fittings and not your pipe also its fine if it wiring the trap arm distance to the vent as it goes into the drain thru a bend no worries buddy lol
How is it ok to put cellular core pvc underground?
Double clean out with a backwards fitting? Not code!
Im a master plumber here in Texas for 30 years now. Cool video but my question is why do u call yourself the expert plumber when it took you many years to get your license?
Great Video,
Roger just got a quote here in Ft.Worth to install a water shut off on a 1983 home for $950.00 between the meter and the house and doesn't look complicated looks straight forward. Plumber was called out for possible slab leak but plumber stated a water shut off was needed first to find the leak. Seems a little high, am I wrong?
thanks
Hell yeah thats too high! Should be somewhere around $95-125 an hour and shouldn't take more than 2 hours tops. $250 labor at the max plus your parts cost. Damn
@@tannerwest6823
Thanks Tanner for the response. Its been hard finding good plumbers in the DFW area that charge a fair rate , Show up and do a good job.
@@GH-wt7wwyeah I hear that same thing almost everyday. I live in NC and ppl have the same problems here trying to locate good honest service workers
Hey Wakefield, please do a show on Zurn pex B with expansion joints, is it better than Uponor pex A, due to more psi strength in the pipe and less toxins leaking into the water, also USA made. I'm looking to repipe and found this product, please give us your thoughts.
Thanks
I have a 3-in testy too
What the sand called for packing
Hello, really good videos a lot of information
Glad you think so!
Hey roger im looking to starting my own plumbing company in the north texas, dallas area got any tips? Dos and donts?
I've got a video on everything! Watch this ruclips.net/video/9MhagGqLaFk/видео.html
I see leaks on roughs a lot. Is there anything in plumbing market to fix small leaks besides cutting the pipe and redoing over? Good vids.
No.
I hate new construction and rough ins. Lose money, big pain in the ass with inspectors. Never again. Make more on service calls and no inspections most of the time and I get paid quicker.
Hey, Roger, it is "How to PLUMB a house" not "How to Plumbing house!" :) But hey, what ever it takes to get a click, Mr. Master Plumber ! LOL
Yeah it definitely should have been four inch the whole way
Snake the plumbing from the roof vents, don't bring that nasty old cable machine into your customers home. Spend the money on medium bodied grey glue, clear sucks. Like the clean fill. If that is a live line to the second floor in the master, that group is improperly vented.
4 inch is twice the price.
Plus the water level is lower due to the bigger size. 3" is ok for a house.
@@alejandroc7357 here in SC it's 30 for 10 feet of 3 inch and 50 for 4 inch. Our supply houses or chain stores all the same
Cold day in Dallas. You're cute.
Really bad coverage by the camera guy. He was focused on you instead of the rough in