3/4 px is 1/2 copper flow rate. If you live in the house you work on you WILL notice the difference. So 1 inch px is actually 3/4 copper flow. But nobody does that. Solution is to use copper for all work. 🤷♂️
the other thing I have seen is putting the thermostatic mixing valve for a roman tub near the water heater, but I prefer when the mixing valve is closer to the the fixture that it serves. So under the lav sink means it will be still be accessible if it needs to be serviced later.
Great video Roger! The top soil vent and drain pipes Look good. The water lines are a different story and I totally agree about the flow issues this can cause.
Hi I am a plumber in Newfoundland Canada Just wanted to tell ya great channel and thanks for highlighting the rough-in guys we are far from appreciated in what we do..
Very great plumbing rough in video Roger! I like the double fixture fittings for the double vanities. We now use a lot of 2” and 3” double fixture fittings up here in Minnesota. At first the double fixture fittings were popular in California, Idaho, Oregon, Nevada, and Arizona as far back as 1972 😮
Theres a reason this man is booming and has been since he launched his channel. Theres a reason people love him and watch him, also buy his stuff. Theres a reason that people sub and comment. Theres a reason his growth is organic not bought. Theres a reason hes doing so well on youtube. Hes a pure soul. Thats the reason. He just wants to help. And we get that energy.
The only thing that I saw was the first shower you showed it looked like the shower valve was not centered in relation to the shower head or visa versa, just a little plumber OCD
When I would run copper water lines in a top-out, the copper never touched the wood. For two reasons. The insulator held the pipe tight through the studs, and prevented sound transfer, as well as water hammer. By not doing this to the plastic water lines would you have either of those problems? Some plumbers don't seem to understand the difference in water volume and pressure. If you have 20ft. of 1/2" copper piping, and 20ft. of 1" copper piping at the same pressure you can right away see that the 1" holds more water; i.e. how many square inches are in a gallon of water? Undersized water piping will starve another fixture if by chance they run simultaneously, just like gas piping if not sized for maximum CFH.
Hey Roger, Thanks for the tour! I like how they use extra 3/4 cut offs for sleeves to protect the 1/2 stub-outs. I'm surprised though they don't loop the furthest point in the hot water line back to the tank for recirculation, but I guess the rough-in is for a tankless. I would still pipe it for future use or standby tank and just leave an extra hot stub-out.
@@kylekoenig4730 You can't use a recirc on a tankless anyway without a seperate standby tank, it will run all the time completely making it totally inefficient.
I'am a state Cert Plumber in Florida..21yrs strong. we do 90% Residential new work 5% commercial and 5% service. We use pex A uponor and you do not need to over size pipes because of the fittings are not reduced, they fit inside a pipe and the pipe is opened with a special tool to fit over the fitting. We also use bend supports to keep any pressure off the fitting angles. We also use CPVC and copper ( propress )
Can’t use cross tees for lavatory drain lines for us due to venting and possibly of plugging up and not clean out under sink. And never heard it called a top out here it’s called a Rough in
The main issue I see with running 3/4 hot water lines all the way to fixtures is you have to evacuate the entire water line before your hot water makes it to the fixture which translates to a longer wait time to get your hot water there is a happy medium you have to hit to keep your volume and your lowest wait time on your hot water.
It really depends on the length of the run from heater to fixture. For example I ran 3/4 to my shower head and 1/2 to everything else. My shower warms up the fastest simple because its a much shorter run than all the 1/2 runs.
@@ridenorthwest1687 yea the length of the run definitely comes into play but my point was in general it still takes longer than a 1/2 inch line because the 3/4 holds more water the shorter the run the less water the pipe holds in either size
@@sethpurvis8680 Yeah you're not wrong. I just think as long as its not a real long run its worth just doing 3/4. My shower water pressure is worth the extra seconds.
I would have used copper stub outs on water lines so you can replace angle stops ... with those pex ones you have to open the wall just to replace angle stop real PITA...
I like stubbing out with copper too. Even though code doesn’t require shut offs on all fixtures, I like using compression fittings (Dahl) for fixture shut offs.
@@arnelarsen4073 I agree and I also hate how flimsy a pex stub is and unsightly if any pipe left exposed. The copper stub outs far worth the little added cost IMO
That’s not a double gas outlet, that’s a drip leg. As for the flow restrictions, I can see changing it at the water heater because that’s going to feed the whole hot side of the house. However on those lavs and ice makers, it does not need to be 3/4 all the way there. Those fittings don’t make that big of a difference and even if they did every sink and lav has a 3/8s flow restriction anyway so if you have 1/2” pex coming off 3/4 and because of the fitting it’s a 3/8s flow it’s about the same as having 3/4 to the wall and then squeezing it down to 3/8s at the angle stop. All the changes you recommend, you should add the caveat of if your building a custom house do this. There’s no way they’re just going to add a diverter and rain head to a tract house because some people might like it. My criticism of this job are the shower valve and the angle stops. The shower valve look crooked but that could just be the angle of the camera. As for the angle stops/stub outs , I think those yellow caps are those plunger valves. That’s what I call them, I’ve only seen them a few times so I’m not sure what they’re technically called. Anyway they put them on some stub outs and others didn’t have them. I don’t know if this is because they’re going to add stuff outside the wall but they did 2 at a lavatory so I’m not sure what would be added. I like everything to be uniform. If they are intentionally stubbing some lines out without them on purpose then just put stub outs on everything. Plus I’d much rather have an angle stop I can change without cutting the wall. PS does anyone recognize that pex. It looked like the old black crimp ring pex but there wasn’t any daylight between the ring and the fitting. I’ve never seen pex connections that looked like that.
Great video Roger. Would it have made enough difference using pex A such as Uponor as far as running 1/2" ? Or do you still suggest running 3/4" regardless of the Pex used?
I never use those types of gas valves. If you look on the inside of them you will see they reduce the flow alot. I preffer to use full port 1/4 turn Ball valves. The icemaker is missing a hammer arrester, i always convince the homeowner's to put in a Reverse Osmosis system and i get the ice maker water from there and pot filler if they have one. I would have like to see a recirculation on the hot line, looped to the closest to the stop or valve as possible
crazy to see CPVC being used. Personally I don't use that type of pipe because it can't hold up. I also have never had issues with flow while using PEX, copper is ok if you're making repairs but I feel if you're plumbing a new house you should use PEX. I just worry about electrolysis when using copper, but again its not really that bad if you prefer copper then use it.
I like 3/4 copper out to all locations, terminating with 1/2 copper. Full shutoff located at heater, low point drains at heater. Also could have run water to range for filling large pots directly.
Missing shock arresters on the ice maker an washer box. The line going from the master lav to the tub is for a TMV. Where I’m from it’s code to temper the hot water to the tub
I like solid copper pipe between the shower valve and head. Adds to overall rigidity instead of it all on the two little ears on the drop ell. I also stub copper into the valve itself and hang the shower valve assembly in two bell hangers. again..adds rigidity. What kind of pex was that? Not familiar with those fittings.
Only in commercial jobs. Where I live, residential inspections are a little more lenient. Of course… that doesn’t mean you can do whatever. But commercial inspections are gonna be a little more tight
interesting.. they are using the sioux chief outlet boxes, the service plumber won't find the shut off in the garage until he has worked in the subdivision a few times, I suggest not oversizing the lines to the shower as all the water in larger lines makes for a longer wait time for hot.
No insulation for the hot water lines ? I think they should of install flanges after floors go in and if they are adding a water softener they should have separated the house bibs from the rest of the waterlines
Cheap builder/plumber. I would have used 1"thick insulation for the hot water line and put it under a loop with a recirculation line going back to the water heater. We always put the hosebibs on a separate loop with a valve and tee so in the winter the homeowner's can shutt the water off to the hosebibs, drain them outside and if they want they can put some air in the line to fully blow all the water out the line. I've been doing this since i work with an OCD architect. He even makes me insulate the cold water to prevent condensation during the summer. He pays for it so o well
At 6’5”. I’ve yet to have water ever flow up out of head to get my head. It will 100% flow down to everyone. Put a smart valve on the handle and you can shutoff without going to garage.
Love a lot of your videos! But I have to say. You were talking about such a great rough in. A major thing I noticed ( that went unnoticed ) some of the pure pex stub outs are not supported and look so floppy. That looked horrible.
That’s a weird looking island vent in that kitchen sink drainage. And what’s stubbing out pipe for the clean outs? Why not just install line clean outs at rough in. That way the clean outs don’t stick out of the wall so far
The water lines definitely need tightened up I can for see a lot of noice problems, maybe add some silicone in the holes in the studs and add a couple more talons so the pipes don't slap when water goes through them
maybe it's my OCD but the arrangement of that master shower head stub and the shower valve are not centered, and A LOT of that PEX could be cleaned up.
Going to switch out my home from 1/2 copper to pex a. Should i upsize to 3/4 or stick with 1/2? I know pex a doesnt reduce at connections like b and c, would you still recommend upsizing? Any advice appreciated, Thank you!
Flow restrictions what do you use a little braided lines with the cut off valves they go to the fixtures learn never 3/4 or any other sizes are really small I was just wondering if that really slows down the water?
I love the extra stub-out separating the gas cock from the actual gas stub out! But, as I’m typing this I just thought about if there’s a leak later on and they need pump up the system to check it, some of those gas cocks won’t hold 15psi. But, they may have accounted for that already in the gas cock they put it. Also; the rough of it makes for a more extensive situation if it ever needs replacing. But- overall not too bad at all!
I was looking at the same thing. I know there's a lumber shortage but those studs awful! They are full of knots, finger joined, chipped, and bowed. This is what I'd use for fire blocking and not framing studs. Must be a D.R. Horton Home!
Also on the master bathroom shower, it did not look like there was any type of isolation stops built in to the diverter. Are those PEX water lines connected to some sort of manabloc to isolate the shower? If there's no isolation it will fail in my state
Shutt of valves are not required in Texas for a shower valve even do i agree it would be best to only shutt the water off to the valve to replace the carthridge
That 2" clean out should be at least 3". Especially if it's for snaking the building drain. I used a 1500 machine for mains and the cables won't fit through that.
I like to imagine that Roger is in a completely different state on a completely random job site . RW:"You see how they reduced this ? I don't like that " JSM:"Excuse me sir who are you ?? "
hopefully that stove hookup was a cooktop and not a range, or that gas line will be in the worst possible place for it. best range setup I've seen, the tin nokker set a back can behind the range and there was gas, 120V and 240V all inside the can, so no matter what stove went in, all the connections would be flush to the wall, and the stove wouldn't be pushed away from the wall. best plumbing trick I've seen was the condensate collector plumbed directly to the drain, so there weren't extra pipes sticking randomly out of the wall to get clogged or freeze. but those rough-in caps at all the fixtures are slick.
I use expansion fittings verses crimp so my jobs have alittle better flow but I here plumbers talk about stepping up with pex I've never had a flow issue with pex BECAUSE OF ONE THING YOUR 1/2 in PEX STEPS DOWN AT EACH FIXTURE TO 3/8 so explain to me why run 1/2 copper that cost so much more to the customer when if you can explain how the hell your going to push 1/2 inch copper pressure through a 3/8 supply line!!! PLEASE EXPLAIN I'D LIKE TO KNOW you do have some experience over me but I have been plumbing since late 80's. Thanks for the videos.
1;13 of the video.. that CO is an illegal CO. CO' SHALL be the same size as the LINE it serves. AND. A short seep? really? Comon Man, explain to me how you are going to get a 1'' sewer cable to go around that short sweep. cut the 90 off. stub out of the wall with a 45. add a female adapter. I would leave the adapter not glued That 2'' line looks to me like it was going to be a service sink or drain for a water softner...
I either use 1/2 pex by sweat adapters or pex stubouts. I don't trust pex angelstops, ill never put those in seems like junk to me. Also that washing machine box should have air hammers on it. Also its installed upside down, you loop your pex back up. Commercial plumbing is way more intricate than this. I could do this in my sleep after 6 months on a real jobsite. Get into commercail and I'll resub
That kitchen sink is a mess… no vent? And the hot water is loose. They could have used a bracket like they did in the bathrooms. To be fair, these are probably Tract homes so the top out was probably done in a day lmao so I get it but still this particular installation probably isn’t the cleanest but i wouldn’t doubt that it passed. Honestly my biggest pet peeve is too many holes drilled into the studs. Looks a messy but that’s just me.
Surprised at how lazy the pex looks, my boss would kill me for running pex like that🤣🤣 yes I understand by bending you create less potential for leaks with fittings but wow😭
those stub outs look like crap for that kitchen sink...just saying.. should make your guys use Hold Rights and 701's with a 4 or 6 inch spread.. my boss would fire my ass if he saw that.
@@Tdrr8989 he probably only works doing roughins, ive seen lots of guys who work only doing rough ins and when they do a top out they put the san tee like if it was a dran and i always have to explain to them then venting is basically the opposite
Im ocd witht the water lines. I strap them with talon straps as close as possible and put in hammer arresters to the icemaker, washer box, dishwasher, toilets basically anything that instantly shutts the water off
I hate pex stubouts i like the copper stubouts for pex they got the nice copper brackets to hang em up straight on the stud. Im so sick of walking into multi million dollar beachhouses and seeing 3/8 “ pex just flopping up into the vanity or sink with NO STOPS its all 3/8” maninlock pex THROUGH OUT THE WHOLE HOUSE! At least they use minimal fittings cause theyre cheap so less flow restricion on the already restricted flow. They just tack it up all loopy and rollercoastery in the crawl so the hose bibbs just drain back into the crawl 🤷♂️
This has to be some of the worst plumbing I've ever seen. Pipes aren't strapped well, dead end clean outs are rat nests, should be washed at the base. 1/2" to a single fixture is perfectly fine. Size of gas line is dependent on pressure, length of the run and the btu rating. Studor vents suck. Crosses are a terrible idea, use a high/low fitting set up instead. Would hate to see what they did on the ground rough.
@@RogerWakefield Hey Roger, don't mean to rag on you, love your videos. I like seeing different perspectives, that's how we learn. Just can't stand how all these new products take the craftsmanship out of the craft and away from the craftsman. I feel that it dulls our edge over time.
I hope this is not the future of rough plumbing as this is an example of the race to the bottom. There was a time when tradesman took pride in their system design and installation, some, myself included still do. This makes me sick to my stomach. Why are you praising this? Most building codes set the standard for the worst house you can legally build, here you are! This is a rant. If you're looking to argue about it, you've revealed a lot. If your looking for a plumbing system built to a high standard, change the channel. C'mon, Roger!
Those studs are crap, they use cpvc for the water heater as well as pex. That house isn't built well to begin with. I wouldn't buy that house. I've been in the trades my whole adult life and the builder is looking for suckers to buy it.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I've always used 3/4 inch pex stub outs to the water heater for rough ins, never had problems. Even in big houses
What size are the nipples on top of the water heater lmao
Roger is over compensating for something lol
The nipples are always 3/4” unless it’s a massive tank
Agree 😂
3/4 px is 1/2 copper flow rate. If you live in the house you work on you WILL notice the difference. So 1 inch px is actually 3/4 copper flow. But nobody does that. Solution is to use copper for all work. 🤷♂️
Watching this video while on lunch. We're doing nail plates today. And now I'm watching Roger learning gotta love it.
Rock on!
The 3rd water line running from the master lav to the master tub is for a mixing valve(anti-scold) which is either code or a standard for new homes
the other thing I have seen is putting the thermostatic mixing valve for a roman tub near the water heater, but I prefer when the mixing valve is closer to the the fixture that it serves. So under the lav sink means it will be still be accessible if it needs to be serviced later.
Great video Roger!
The top soil vent and drain pipes Look good.
The water lines are a different story and
I totally agree about the flow issues this can cause.
Turn on 4 things even small and there isn't any pressure for the 5th using 3/4 pex b crimp
Hi I am a plumber in Newfoundland Canada Just wanted to tell ya great channel and thanks for highlighting the rough-in guys we are far from appreciated in what we do..
Very great plumbing rough in video Roger! I like the double fixture fittings for the double vanities. We now use a lot of 2” and 3” double fixture fittings up here in Minnesota. At first the double fixture fittings were popular in California, Idaho, Oregon, Nevada, and Arizona as far back as 1972 😮
Theres a reason this man is booming and has been since he launched his channel. Theres a reason people love him and watch him, also buy his stuff. Theres a reason that people sub and comment. Theres a reason his growth is organic not bought. Theres a reason hes doing so well on youtube. Hes a pure soul. Thats the reason. He just wants to help. And we get that energy.
I appreciate that...it's been a fun...and crazy ride
The only thing that I saw was the first shower you showed it looked like the shower valve was not centered in relation to the shower head or visa versa, just a little plumber OCD
Noticed that too, I didn't think the framing could've been that far off? If the shower is tiled it will look awful
@Ron Lovell my eye started to twitch, didn't know what to make of it, I mean there was a center mark lol
Definitely agree
When I would run copper water lines in a top-out, the copper never touched the wood. For two reasons. The insulator held the pipe tight through the studs, and prevented sound transfer, as well as water hammer.
By not doing this to the plastic water lines would you have either of those problems?
Some plumbers don't seem to understand the difference in water volume and pressure. If you have 20ft. of 1/2" copper piping, and 20ft. of 1" copper piping at the same pressure you can right away see that the 1" holds more water; i.e. how many square inches are in a gallon of water? Undersized water piping will starve another fixture if by chance they run simultaneously, just like gas piping if not sized for maximum CFH.
Me the first 30 seconds "psst , psst , Roger over here bro ." lol , subbed .
Hey Roger, Thanks for the tour! I like how they use extra 3/4 cut offs for sleeves to protect the 1/2 stub-outs. I'm surprised though they don't loop the furthest point in the hot water line back to the tank for recirculation, but I guess the rough-in is for a tankless. I would still pipe it for future use or standby tank and just leave an extra hot stub-out.
Tankless doesn’t give instant hot without a recirc too :(
@@kylekoenig4730 You can't use a recirc on a tankless anyway without a seperate standby tank, it will run all the time completely making it totally inefficient.
I'am a state Cert Plumber in Florida..21yrs strong. we do 90% Residential new work 5% commercial and 5% service. We use pex A uponor and you do not need to over size pipes because of the fittings are not reduced, they fit inside a pipe and the pipe is opened with a special tool to fit over the fitting. We also use bend supports to keep any pressure off the fitting angles. We also use CPVC and copper ( propress )
What is with all the buried threaded gas lines, we cant put threaded connections in a wall without access panels
I gonna repeat again...
This guy id my drug!!!!...
Always thumbs up roger!!!!
Who id’s you for drugs ?
Can’t use cross tees for lavatory drain lines for us due to venting and possibly of plugging up and not clean out under sink. And never heard it called a top out here it’s called a Rough in
We call it top rough. We have utilities, ground rough(under slab), top rough and finish.
The main issue I see with running 3/4 hot water lines all the way to fixtures is you have to evacuate the entire water line before your hot water makes it to the fixture which translates to a longer wait time to get your hot water there is a happy medium you have to hit to keep your volume and your lowest wait time on your hot water.
It really depends on the length of the run from heater to fixture. For example I ran 3/4 to my shower head and 1/2 to everything else. My shower warms up the fastest simple because its a much shorter run than all the 1/2 runs.
@@ridenorthwest1687 yea the length of the run definitely comes into play but my point was in general it still takes longer than a 1/2 inch line because the 3/4 holds more water the shorter the run the less water the pipe holds in either size
@@sethpurvis8680 Yeah you're not wrong. I just think as long as its not a real long run its worth just doing 3/4. My shower water pressure is worth the extra seconds.
I would have used copper stub outs on water lines so you can replace angle stops ... with those pex ones you have to open the wall just to replace angle stop real PITA...
Good tip. Tks..
I like stubbing out with copper too. Even though code doesn’t require shut offs on all fixtures, I like using compression fittings (Dahl) for fixture shut offs.
@@arnelarsen4073 I agree and I also hate how flimsy a pex stub is and unsightly if any pipe left exposed. The copper stub outs far worth the little added cost IMO
That’s not a double gas outlet, that’s a drip leg. As for the flow restrictions, I can see changing it at the water heater because that’s going to feed the whole hot side of the house. However on those lavs and ice makers, it does not need to be 3/4 all the way there. Those fittings don’t make that big of a difference and even if they did every sink and lav has a 3/8s flow restriction anyway so if you have 1/2” pex coming off 3/4 and because of the fitting it’s a 3/8s flow it’s about the same as having 3/4 to the wall and then squeezing it down to 3/8s at the angle stop.
All the changes you recommend, you should add the caveat of if your building a custom house do this. There’s no way they’re just going to add a diverter and rain head to a tract house because some people might like it.
My criticism of this job are the shower valve and the angle stops. The shower valve look crooked but that could just be the angle of the camera. As for the angle stops/stub outs , I think those yellow caps are those plunger valves. That’s what I call them, I’ve only seen them a few times so I’m not sure what they’re technically called. Anyway they put them on some stub outs and others didn’t have them. I don’t know if this is because they’re going to add stuff outside the wall but they did 2 at a lavatory so I’m not sure what would be added. I like everything to be uniform. If they are intentionally stubbing some lines out without them on purpose then just put stub outs on everything. Plus I’d much rather have an angle stop I can change without cutting the wall.
PS does anyone recognize that pex. It looked like the old black crimp ring pex but there wasn’t any daylight between the ring and the fitting. I’ve never seen pex connections that looked like that.
🤞 those dbl lav drains don't get clogged. It can be a nightmare down the road to snake those
The extra pipe under the Vanity and more than likely for the mixing valve for the Roman tub. This way it will be readily accessible.
I thought so too. I always leave a hot and cold line and a third line for the water that is mixed going to go back to the roman valve.
That makes sense, but they should've brought the 3/4 line all the way to it first, then reduced for the vanity!
In NJ that laundry discharge would be illegal bc no back water valve guess plumb code is different in Dallas
Water Shut Off in Garage Good Idea, But a Fire Rated Access Panel Would be Required to Maintain the Fire Rating of the Wall
Yeah more flow is good if there's good existing pressure to allow for the higher volume.
Great video Roger. Would it have made enough difference using pex A such as Uponor as far as running 1/2" ? Or do you still suggest running 3/4" regardless of the Pex used?
The fact you have to ask lololol
I never use those types of gas valves. If you look on the inside of them you will see they reduce the flow alot. I preffer to use full port 1/4 turn Ball valves. The icemaker is missing a hammer arrester, i always convince the homeowner's to put in a Reverse Osmosis system and i get the ice maker water from there and pot filler if they have one.
I would have like to see a recirculation on the hot line, looped to the closest to the stop or valve as possible
Do you need a hammer arrestor for PEX?
@@michaeltristan86 I just run a loop on my trunks
crazy to see CPVC being used. Personally I don't use that type of pipe because it can't hold up. I also have never had issues with flow while using PEX, copper is ok if you're making repairs but I feel if you're plumbing a new house you should use PEX. I just worry about electrolysis when using copper, but again its not really that bad if you prefer copper then use it.
I think that cpvc is for the pan drain and pop off for water heater.
Roger, do you recommend a PEX manifold system as opposed to a traditional Branch Plumbing system??
Pex manifold is just simpler imo.
@@ridenorthwest1687 They leak and can burst. Seen it happen twice.
I like 3/4 copper out to all locations, terminating with 1/2 copper. Full shutoff located at heater, low point drains at heater. Also could have run water to range for filling large pots directly.
Missing shock arresters on the ice maker an washer box.
The line going from the master lav to the tub is for a TMV. Where I’m from it’s code to temper the hot water to the tub
Love this channel made thousands of $$$$ just from learning off this channel keep doing your thing $$$
No water hammer arresters on the washing machine box, tempering valve for the tub?
I like solid copper pipe between the shower valve and head. Adds to overall rigidity instead of it all on the two little ears on the drop ell. I also stub copper into the valve itself and hang the shower valve assembly in two bell hangers. again..adds rigidity. What kind of pex was that? Not familiar with those fittings.
great video
Glad you enjoyed it
3:10 / 3:30 AGREE 100%
Are hammer arrestors not required in Texas or something?
I remember using them in a top out for a school. But not for houses.
Yes they are. I do work in central Tx wich is under the UPC code. We put hammer arresters to the ice makers, washer boxes, dishwasher, toilets etc
Only in commercial jobs.
Where I live, residential inspections are a little more lenient. Of course… that doesn’t mean you can do whatever.
But commercial inspections are gonna be a little more tight
interesting.. they are using the sioux chief outlet boxes,
the service plumber won't find the shut off in the garage until he has worked in the subdivision a few times,
I suggest not oversizing the lines to the shower as all the water in larger lines makes for a longer wait time for hot.
Waiting for the day I can flex pool plumbing knowledge... got a feeling it's gonna be awhile.
What kind of fittings are they using on the water lines? Doesn’t look like crimp or expansion
No insulation for the hot water lines ? I think they should of install flanges after floors go in and if they are adding a water softener they should have separated the house bibs from the rest of the waterlines
Cheap builder/plumber. I would have used 1"thick insulation for the hot water line and put it under a loop with a recirculation line going back to the water heater. We always put the hosebibs on a separate loop with a valve and tee so in the winter the homeowner's can shutt the water off to the hosebibs, drain them outside and if they want they can put some air in the line to fully blow all the water out the line. I've been doing this since i work with an OCD architect. He even makes me insulate the cold water to prevent condensation during the summer. He pays for it so o well
At 6’5”. I’ve yet to have water ever flow up out of head to get my head. It will 100% flow down to everyone.
Put a smart valve on the handle and you can shutoff without going to garage.
Love a lot of your videos!
But I have to say. You were talking about such a great rough in. A major thing I noticed ( that went unnoticed ) some of the pure pex stub outs are not supported and look so floppy. That looked horrible.
That’s a weird looking island vent in that kitchen sink drainage. And what’s stubbing out pipe for the clean outs? Why not just install line clean outs at rough in. That way the clean outs don’t stick out of the wall so far
The water lines definitely need tightened up I can for see a lot of noice problems, maybe add some silicone in the holes in the studs and add a couple more talons so the pipes don't slap when water goes through them
I have no idea what any of this is, but I stayed for that southern accent. 😃
Keep coming back Krystle!
You said dual 3/4" gas for the water heater. The bottom pipe is not an outlet but the code required dirtleg, downstream of the shut off valve.
maybe it's my OCD but the arrangement of that master shower head stub and the shower valve are not centered, and A LOT of that PEX could be cleaned up.
That's probably because a slide bar will be mounted on center for a hand held that can also slide up the bar & be used as a normal head
It’s crazy using 3/4” Pex yet you load the system with fittings that restrict the flow.
Going to switch out my home from 1/2 copper to pex a. Should i upsize to 3/4 or stick with 1/2? I know pex a doesnt reduce at connections like b and c, would you still recommend upsizing? Any advice appreciated, Thank you!
Personally I prefer Copper but if you are going to run PEX, up size it so you don't have flow restrictions
Flow restrictions what do you use a little braided lines with the cut off valves they go to the fixtures learn never 3/4 or any other sizes are really small I was just wondering if that really slows down the water?
I love the extra stub-out separating the gas cock from the actual gas stub out! But, as I’m typing this I just thought about if there’s a leak later on and they need pump up the system to check it, some of those gas cocks won’t hold 15psi. But, they may have accounted for that already in the gas cock they put it. Also; the rough of it makes for a more extensive situation if it ever needs replacing. But- overall not too bad at all!
what are all those finger jointed studs? those are scary.. and what's the green coating about 2' up the stud?
Termite treatment. Finger joint studs are actually stronger.
I was looking at the same thing. I know there's a lumber shortage but those studs awful! They are full of knots, finger joined, chipped, and bowed. This is what I'd use for fire blocking and not framing studs. Must be a D.R. Horton Home!
Also on the master bathroom shower, it did not look like there was any type of isolation stops built in to the diverter. Are those PEX water lines connected to some sort of manabloc to isolate the shower? If there's no isolation it will fail in my state
Shutt of valves are not required in Texas for a shower valve even do i agree it would be best to only shutt the water off to the valve to replace the carthridge
@@ImYourHucklebery117 Here in NJ EVERY plumbing fixture must have shutoffs or stops in order to isolate of there is a problem according to the NSPC
@@guitar1301 that would be great if they'd do it like that in texas, but it really doesn't get that cold here
@@ImYourHucklebery117 LOL 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@jimharper6073 not talking about last February, that was a 1 in a 100 year freeze. Made lots of money on replacing Tankles and busted lines
That 2" clean out should be at least 3". Especially if it's for snaking the building drain. I used a 1500 machine for mains and the cables won't fit through that.
All those double lav drains should’ve had a clean out that would’ve never passed in my area
I like to imagine that Roger is in a completely different state on a completely random job site .
RW:"You see how they reduced this ? I don't like that "
JSM:"Excuse me sir who are you ?? "
Hey expert plumber. Will you ever explain why it took you many many years to get your license?
hopefully that stove hookup was a cooktop and not a range, or that gas line will be in the worst possible place for it.
best range setup I've seen, the tin nokker set a back can behind the range and there was gas, 120V and 240V all inside the can, so no matter what stove went in, all the connections would be flush to the wall, and the stove wouldn't be pushed away from the wall.
best plumbing trick I've seen was the condensate collector plumbed directly to the drain, so there weren't extra pipes sticking randomly out of the wall to get clogged or freeze. but those rough-in caps at all the fixtures are slick.
why would you use cpvc for waters?????
On the first shower, why is the cold insulated?
I think it’s more likely to freeze in the thinner pex
Picazo's finest job
Isn’t that 3 inch Ty in ceiling illegal
Why are all them studs green at the Midway up
I use expansion fittings verses crimp so my jobs have alittle better flow but I here plumbers talk about stepping up with pex I've never had a flow issue with pex BECAUSE OF ONE THING YOUR 1/2 in
PEX STEPS DOWN AT EACH FIXTURE TO 3/8 so explain to me why run 1/2 copper that cost so much more to the customer when if you can explain how the hell your going to push 1/2 inch copper pressure through a 3/8 supply line!!!
PLEASE EXPLAIN I'D LIKE TO KNOW
you do have some experience over me but I have been plumbing since late 80's.
Thanks for the videos.
Think he’s talking about when using trunk and branch. Could have multiple fixtures using same trunk line. Wouldn’t apply to manifold system.
1;13 of the video.. that CO is an illegal CO. CO' SHALL be the same size as the LINE it serves. AND. A short seep? really? Comon Man, explain to me how you are going to get a 1'' sewer cable to go around that short sweep.
cut the 90 off. stub out of the wall with a 45. add a female adapter. I would leave the adapter not glued
That 2'' line looks to me like it was going to be a service sink or drain for a water softner...
I honestly don't care for the compression fittings on the pex. I believe the Uponor system is much more dependable and longer lasting.
But Rodger it’s still going to go through a 3/8 supply line
😂 hey man you put cresses in your 👖 your too old school nice Video
Only 1 full size co and no service stops on shower valves
I either use 1/2 pex by sweat adapters or pex stubouts. I don't trust pex angelstops, ill never put those in seems like junk to me. Also that washing machine box should have air hammers on it. Also its installed upside down, you loop your pex back up. Commercial plumbing is way more intricate than this. I could do this in my sleep after 6 months on a real jobsite. Get into commercail and I'll resub
didn't see a ton of nail plates
No offense im 24 im an apprentice plumber in illinois and this plumbing looks so easy
Sorry i am old school plastic does not make me too excited. It is unhealthy also. I wish they did copper.
PEX is cheaper and faster to install. And to most people that's all that really matters.
Same. It looks unreliable too.
That shower valves not even in line with the showerhead.
i cant get over how the right side of his moustache is longer than the left
That shower head and valve was nowhere near centered lol.
That kitchen sink is a mess… no vent? And the hot water is loose. They could have used a bracket like they did in the bathrooms.
To be fair, these are probably Tract homes so the top out was probably done in a day lmao so I get it but still this particular installation probably isn’t the cleanest but i wouldn’t doubt that it passed.
Honestly my biggest pet peeve is too many holes drilled into the studs. Looks a messy but that’s just me.
That's some shoddy sloppy ass work..I hope that's not standard for your area. That would never fly in the Northeast!!
Every connection in the water system remains a possible leak
Hill Billy approves Hill Billy work. It’s not a good job.
I DONT SEE ANY PRIMER ON ANY PVC FITTING
i don't really understand why you use the side angle view camera. Not really needed for a plumbing video.
Surprised at how lazy the pex looks, my boss would kill me for running pex like that🤣🤣 yes I understand by bending you create less potential for leaks with fittings but wow😭
They insulated the wrong side of the Master shower..
Must be an American thing calling it a " top out". In Canada we start with "Groundworks", Then "Rough-In's", Then "Finishing" or Final
Do me a favor and upsize everything! I’ll propose it but it’ll cost more.
Fire the guy that installed the 1st shower valve wah off center
those stub outs look like crap for that kitchen sink...just saying.. should make your guys use Hold Rights and 701's with a 4 or 6 inch spread.. my boss would fire my ass if he saw that.
No copper to shower head?
A lot of new track homes are using PEX...I prefer copper as well
@@RogerWakefield my least favorite thing is Pex B to the tub spot! I see it often. Thanks for the reply!
Are we not gonna talk about the upside down San Tee at 10:38
Thats for the vent! So it will flow up not down
@@Tdrr8989 he probably only works doing roughins, ive seen lots of guys who work only doing rough ins and when they do a top out they put the san tee like if it was a dran and i always have to explain to them then venting is basically the opposite
It's for the vent.
With all that shty Water pipe installed water hammer will happen all over the house. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 just wait and hear 👂 😳.
Im ocd witht the water lines. I strap them with talon straps as close as possible and put in hammer arresters to the icemaker, washer box, dishwasher, toilets basically anything that instantly shutts the water off
Wow… that must take up a lot of your time ☹️
@@cevink1804 do it right you sleep at night
We are not the ones that are going to live there. That's someone else's problem.
@@strangeroamer3219 wow what a reeee,
That's some of the worst looking lumber i have seen.
Welcome to 2022.
Running a main with a 2” cleanout is laughable
I hate pex stubouts i like the copper stubouts for pex they got the nice copper brackets to hang em up straight on the stud. Im so sick of walking into multi million dollar beachhouses and seeing 3/8 “ pex just flopping up into the vanity or sink with NO STOPS its all 3/8” maninlock pex THROUGH OUT THE WHOLE HOUSE! At least they use minimal fittings cause theyre cheap so less flow restricion on the already restricted flow. They just tack it up all loopy and rollercoastery in the crawl so the hose bibbs just drain back into the crawl 🤷♂️
Them water lines look like shit too
This has to be some of the worst plumbing I've ever seen. Pipes aren't strapped well, dead end clean outs are rat nests, should be washed at the base. 1/2" to a single fixture is perfectly fine. Size of gas line is dependent on pressure, length of the run and the btu rating. Studor vents suck. Crosses are a terrible idea, use a high/low fitting set up instead. Would hate to see what they did on the ground rough.
I mention it in the video. We did a video on a rough in, before and after, the slab was poured.
@@RogerWakefield Hey Roger, don't mean to rag on you, love your videos. I like seeing different perspectives, that's how we learn. Just can't stand how all these new products take the craftsmanship out of the craft and away from the craftsman. I feel that it dulls our edge over time.
Nice plumbing, shitty sheathing.
I hope this is not the future of rough plumbing as this is an example of the race to the bottom. There was a time when tradesman took pride in their system design and installation, some, myself included still do. This makes me sick to my stomach. Why are you praising this? Most building codes set the standard for the worst house you can legally build, here you are! This is a rant. If you're looking to argue about it, you've revealed a lot. If your looking for a plumbing system built to a high standard, change the channel. C'mon, Roger!
Oh yes everyone needs 3/4 to a toilet lol. Mr obviously right here. So tired of it man.
Well thanks for watching😂
No problem, everyone needs a good laugh.
This is horrible horrible Rough In !!! What a mess
Those studs are crap, they use cpvc for the water heater as well as pex. That house isn't built well to begin with. I wouldn't buy that house. I've been in the trades my whole adult life and the builder is looking for suckers to buy it.