Building Foundation Plumbing Drain Pipe Layout And Assembly For Small House - Part Two
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2020
- www.homebuildingandrepairs.co... Click on more information about home building and design projects that could inspire you to build your own house. This is the second video in our series on how to build an 850 square-foot house. Learn how someone like yourself or other do-it-yourselfers can install the drain pipe plumbing for a concrete foundation. Keep in mind that it might be a good idea to validate the information in this video with local building authorities before building your house.
850 Square Foot 2 Bedroom House Video Links
Design And Building Tutorials - Part One - • 850 Square Foot 2 Bedr...
Building Foundation Forms, Rebar And Anchor Bolts - Part Three - • Building Foundation Fo...
Wall Framing Tutorial And Tour - Part Four - • 850 Square Foot Two Be...
Roof Framing Tour - Part Five • Roof Framing Tour of O...
Rough Plumbing Pipe Layout, Gas And Dryer Vent For 850 Square Foot Two Bedroom House - Part Six • Rough Plumbing Pipe La...
Exterior Wall Framing Details And Close Up Views - • 850 Square Foot Two Be...
Interior Wall Framing Details And Close Up Views - • 850 Square Foot Two Be...
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850 Square Foot 2 Bedroom House Video Links
Design And Building Tutorials - Part One - ruclips.net/video/uWbWkmKO2Yg/видео.html
Building Foundation Plumbing Drain Pipe Layout - Part Two ruclips.net/video/ZLhC3jlPQiE/видео.html
Building Foundation Forms, Rebar And Anchor Bolts - Part Three - ruclips.net/video/-4PFNtY7JK4/видео.html
Wall Framing Tutorial And Tour - Part Four - ruclips.net/video/BRP6Il-Zp1k/видео.html
Roof Framing Tour - Part Five ruclips.net/video/SYEyeAZY3GU/видео.html
Rough Plumbing Pipe Layout, Gas And Dryer Vent For 850 Square Foot Two Bedroom House - Part Six ruclips.net/video/BUxdWfWIJOc/видео.html
Exterior Wall Framing Details And Close Up Views - ruclips.net/video/ZlQrNd_Hxro/видео.html
Interior Wall Framing Details And Close Up Views - ruclips.net/video/K0_vVfGNcu4/видео.html
I really love the content you posted in this video, it is always super helpful and informative. Keep posting such amazing videos in the future too.
Question; does a plumbing waste pipe exit under a footing or go through a stem or foundation wall ( single story)?
Wonderful explanation and presentation! Thank you sir!
Very nice video and instruction. Thanks
Glad you liked it
Clear and concise. I will watch a few more times to get familiar with the pieces and parts. I believe I can do it.
Awesome.
Very helpful, thank you.
THAT'S A GOOD LAYOUT THANK YOU 👍
Glad you like it!
Great veido verry. Helpful. Thank you
I’m planning stubbing in a toilet and sink only in a shop corner with radiate heat under a concrete slab. Can I vent right next to wall and have a clean out by sink ?
It makes perfect sense
Great
Thankyou very much we are doing our own slab on grade house and greatly appreciate your help
Glad to help
@@gregvancom when you have to bathrooms back to back one being masters and one being the general bathroom would you only need to run one hot and cold then split it with the apex?
Very informative videos. Would love if you could do one on hanging a beam in a ceiling to remove a load bearing wall
I will put it on my list of videos to be made.
Helpful video. Thank you.🙂
You’re welcome 😊
So incredibly helpful! I’ve got a rather big slab with three 3” drain lines meeting up at a 4” line going to a septic system. We have an option to place two of those 3” lines outside of the slab and run them parallel to the foundation until they meet up with the septic line. The idea being if there were a problem, we would be digging through dirt instead of breaking up concrete. It does seem . . Strange. The lines would be slightly shorter and have a more direct path to the main drain if we kept them all under the slab. I also haven’t seen anyone else worry too much about their under-slab drain lines. I’d be so grateful to hear your professional opinion about it. Assuming the 1/4” rise(fall?) is still possible with the longer runs outside of the slab. Thanks for all of your videos!
I would do the math to make sure the drain line will have enough slope. You can't install a hundred feet line if you only have a few inches between both connecting pipes.
thank you sir
Very informative
Glad you think so!
What about talking about depths from how many feet deep is the front to back.
Also do you have a video of reading plumbing blue prints and how to do layouts for underground
I design houses as a hobby, I have a two story 1500 square foot house in which both up and down stairs I incorporate a 4 foot wide by 12'10" mechanical room. All of the ABS sewer is exposed to this room, this enables 45 degree fittings for each fixture to be installed as clean outs not counting the three clean outs outside of the home. This also provides complete access to the hot and cold water lines as the water heater is also installed in this room. A power snake would be provided as standard equipment. Plumbers would not like this as the home owner would never need to call them out to unplug a clog anywhere in the system. Also under the first floor is a tunnel that provides access to the cold water line entering the home and access to the ABS line running to the sewer system under the street. This tunnel stops at the house exterior walls. There is a 8" wide gap of the second floor slab to allow the plumbing unimpeded access to the second floor! The cold water lines are installed about 2' off the floor and the hot water lines are installed 5' off the floor, they do not cross one another at any point. Cold is blue Pex line while hot is red. One 4' vent exits the roof for ventilation and release of methane gasses from the sewer system. House dimensions are approximately 35' x 25' feet so the kitchen and guest bath/laundry are back to back on the first floor, and the master bath is directly above the guest bath making a compact plumbing job.
Wow, sounds interesting and feel free to email me some of your designs if they aren't top-secret.
Would love to see this design. Do you share it?
@@gregvancom I would have to copy write them prior to releasing them!
@@Scromes-nz2on Not as of yet, this house design is way off the charts in the design of the structural bearing. I design it with 2" x 8" steel studs welded together to include floor and ceiling joists as well as the roof truss system then use 4" x 8" x 16" colored block on the exterior. I do not know any houses that are built to this standard!!! I would have to to copy write it first!
@@gregvancom The design is a one bedroom, one and one half bath two level design. With the welded steel studs the walls can withstand 300 mile per hour winds, but I add the block to the exterior for maintenance free exterior walls. The common walls are the typical 4.5" inch construction, the center wall in the house is load bearing and framed with 2" x 6" steel and have 11 3" x 3" steel posts with-in the wall to support the second floor 4" thick concrete slabs, this load carries to the exterior 2" x 8" with about a 13' foot span. The living room is about 24' x 12'10", the Stairs are at the west end of the living room. The Kitchen is 18'0" x 12'9" with 14 drawers with-in the cabinet bases unless you buy the new trend of a three drawer base cabinet, then about 42 drawers would be in the kitchen. The refrigerator/freezer is recessed into the Mechanical room to allow the refrigerator to sit flush with the cabinet fronts, usual Range and Microwave, two bowl deep tub sink and room enough for a 6 or 8 person dining room table. The Mechanical is 4' x 12'9" with just the 50 gallon water heater at the interior end. The Mechanical room is entered through a 2'6" exterior door on the patio. The Guest Bath/Laundry is 7'6" x 12'9" which includes the closet for the Heating and AC system. There is a laundry chute from the Master Bath above, Washer, Dryer, Toilet and 4' wide vanity, that completes the first floor. The patio is a 3/4 wrap around from the front of a huge garage to the back of the garage making for plenty of outdoor entertainment area that is covered by the patio upstairs. A staircase is built for the patios for ease of moving to the other level. The second floor is almost a duplicate of the first, the bedroom is identical to the living room, then the Master bath is the same size as the Guest Bath. There is a second Mechanical room upstairs identical to the first floor. The difference is the Stair landing and Master Closet over the kitchen. The house is oriented north/south due to the hot Arizona climate. The west walls of the garage and second floor have no windows or doors. The upstairs patio is another 3/4 wrap around that is covered under the roof. The Garage is about 39' x 30' in size, this has a two car bay, storage, the AC Compressor venting to the rear patio and a Perkins Home Generator to power the entire home in the event of power outage. The Garage sits west of the house but is attached. With this house being framed entirely of steel studs, block around the exterior it is fire proof for the walls. Fire code X dry wall used through out, rock wool insulation in all exterior and interior walls makes it also fire proof. 9 triple pane windows provides a quiet house. Use of wrought Iron and block around the the two patios prevents any home invasions. The house is designed to be very secure without looking that way!
How do I do a plan like what you've set up here on a laptop , for Pipelines , then the foundations, and then the building design. Is there a guide on how to do this Please does it come under Architecture home designs ??
Hi great graphics! I am plumbing in a 3 pc bath in a concrete floor. I have a main drain ending with a WC. I want to branch off to the right (looking from above) for a lav and branch to the right of the main for a shower. Does each side need it's own dry vent? I am in Canada. Thanks
Very good 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Greg, good info, thanks. Did i miss the location for a sink drain in the bathroom? I noticed the stool and tub/shower connections but didn't see a sink connection, A separate connection to the main line? Again, great show!
It will drain into the toilet vent pipe as shown in the video at 0.55 seconds into the video
Love the content. You didn't mention the depth of the drain line in the trench is there a required measurement for the trench??
I don't think there is one underneath the house, but there is a minimum depth outside of the perimeter of a building and to get that information you would need to check with your local building and safety department. I want to say it's at least 24 inches.
I have a question is the main sewer line allowed to swoop towards your home
thanks alot
Most welcome
Great video in regards to vent placement will a vent be required every point of drainage
Where ever there is a trap.
Great video. Did you model the pipes or you used a plugin ? Thank you.
I made every component in the video.
@@gregvancom Ok, thanks.
Thanks for good explanation
For outside clean out
Can I use tee pipe ?
I've seen them used before.
Oh Man you are awesome, i have been looking for a basic easy to understand explanation of how the plumbing is setup under foundation and this was perfect. I would like to ask you mentioned sloping at 1/4" quarter inch per foot, can you show how the sloping would look like for this example video? So the illustration can show how the trenching was setup done with the sloping in mind! To get a true picture. Also what is the setup or layout if there are footings different type of foundation setup? Where every 5 feet or 10 feet there is footing in both directions. Not sure what this type of foundation setup is called. Thank you!
I have other videos on foundations at our website.
Excellent video - really clear - I couldn' find Part One - can you share the link please?
Go to the video description box on RUclips for complete list of videos for this project. Design And Building Tutorials - Part One - ruclips.net/video/uWbWkmKO2Yg/видео.html
I have a Question. If I decide to change the subfloor under the toilet, Are any Gas pipes nearby? I see many accidents with Leak Gas paper Demange. I also would appreciate it if you could show a video showing the Gas pipes under a house, I still did not see one on youtube. Still looking for. Thank you. your videos help a lot.
Most gas pipes don't run through bathroom floor plumbing areas. I usually cut a small inspection hole, something about 6 inches by 6 inches without penetrating past the bottom of subflooring when cutting with saw to see what's in that area.
@4:58 is exactly what I needed to see.
Awesome and thanks for watching.
Very informative. I have concerns regarding sewage clogging. We have clogging issue in our basement sewage every couple of weeks. Is it possible the pipe doesn’t have proper slope due to which it gets clogged more often? How can I find out if there is issue with pipe ?
I would use a plumbing video scope if you can find one at your local rental yard. It sounds like you might have old pipes that might be partially clogged.
On minute 3:11 , can you add another two rooms out there with their bathrooms ? Or should I run a new line to the front of the house. (To an existing house)
I can't answer your question, because it depends on to many variables like pipe size, location and building design.
Could I have the position of toilet in line with drain line.
so do i need to elevate my current, lets just saty im planning on turning my garage into a living space, well the center is cracked so i need to level it and make it flat. but then insulating and well its aprojecr
It depends on the height.
Newbie question... can you elaborate why to leave that rectangular space around the tub drain area?
For the trap. He mentions it in the beginning of the vid.
Do you do plumbing rough in designs for customers?
No
Good evening Sir
I wonder if you could help me to plan the plumbing of my 2 bedroom house which designed myself as I have no idea how the plumbing works?
Feel free to email me a picture of your project and I will provide you with an estimated design fee.
I think I just saw the answer to my previous question. This is the kitchen side and is not a drain out of the house, so the orientation is correct. Are all the pipes extending outside the outline of the house below the bottom of the footing?
Some times they face the outside and sometime they face the inside, depending on what they are being used for. Most clean out face outside and drains face inside to be used with sinks and other fixtures.
Are connections to the toilet or shower or sink need to have the inclination you talked about (1/4 inch per foot)? Thank you. 😊
The drain pipes need to slope, but the connections might not.
@@gregvancom Excellent, now it makes sense. Thank you very much. 🙂
When you pour the slab will the concrete fill in the gaps around the plumbing and solidify the trench pipe in concrete or does it get covered with something
Concrete should never touch the plumbing pipes these trenches should be backfilled with a compact double fill material and all exposed plumbing pipes that will come in contact with the concrete should be wrapped with an approved material. I've used cardboard in the past.
Watch this video to learn more.
ruclips.net/video/UlFlJonhLLA/видео.html
@@gregvancom thanks for the tip!
Concrete will expand & could warp or crack your pipe. It’s also a bitch to jackhammer out if you have to. You want your piping to remain at 1/4” per foot grade unless it’s 4” & above in which case, it’s 1/8” per foot so to ensure this, backfill your trench about 12” with sand & pack the sand in & around your pipe as you go to keep it snug & secure.
*OK, so for my floor drain pipes under the basement floor, that will take all the waste water into the public sewer line, I am thinking to put a 5 inches schedule 80 pipe. Cost doesn't bother me. Are there any drawbacks for this application? I just wanted to have a stronger and wider pipe under the floor so I, hopefully, never have to dig the basement floor to treat the broken or narrow pipe.*
You might only have a 4 or 3 inch pipe coming off of the sewer and you can't usually go bigger.
@@gregvancom
Is it usually cuz of the code or technical challenges, water flow issue etc?
Do you have any videos that explain where the pipes enter the home to reduce chipping concrete and moving pipes to meet codes. For example a toilet is supposed to be 12" from a finished wall one way and 15" the other, some how the idiots who lay these out set them 8" and 8" leaving a need for chipping and off setting with elbows. This labor could be eliminated with the proper layout, ive never seen it done, but I e heard of the string line method for residential. It's where 2 points on opposing walls are established and 2 string lines are used to pinpoint the toilet riser. If you ever get a chance to make a video this might be a good one.
I will put your suggestion on my list and I've already made a few videos on locating plumbing fixtures at our website.
does the drainage pipe go under the footing or through them?
I run mine through the footing but put a 3 inch pipe through a 4 inch pipe so the actual drain is not concreted.
Hi Greg, why have such an elaborate round trap for the washer?
Why not swap the drain pipe and taps so the pipe can go straight down to the trap? Wouldn't that be a simpler install?
I'm not 100% clear on what you're suggesting, could you provide me with more detailed information or email me some pictures.
@@gregvancom the photo you showed @4:52 of the laundry drain has a 3/4 circle as part of the trap. I was wondering why not move the valves to the right and the drain to the left? That way the pipe goes straight down and the trap is more 'traditional' (1/2 circle).
@@coatknight I agree, but I really don't think this will be a problem.
I noticed that the Sanitary Tee at 3:08 in the video is angled back towards the house. Is this correct, I've only seen them pointed away from the house? I'm not a plumber, so sorry for such a basic question.
Yes, to pick up the kitchen sink. I would watch the other videos in the series for more ideas.
i have concreate slab with trench for drainlines only. how can i connect waterlines to drainlines? any suggestion i do appreciate. thank you
Water supply lines can be ran under the slab or in the walls and attic.
@@gregvancom thank you.
I wonder if you can do this for an underground house?
As long as it can drain to septic tank or sewer, then yes.
Is it beneficial to go up to 4" pipe instead of 3"
It wouldn't hurt to plumb a house above code minimum, 4 inch pipe is required when you have more than 4 bathrooms.
It will also make your toilet installs much easier after the slab has been poured, because you can simply cut the 4” riser floor with the finished floor and insert a 3” toilet flange INSIDE the 4” pipe. Huge help, but you could also achieve this with a 4x3” 90, without having to upsize the entire trunk line to 4”
The code in Colorado now requires a 2" minimum drain size for sinks and showers. That's just informational. It's something you mention anyway, "code may be different in your country or state"
Great tips and it's always interesting to see what other state require.
Its very important video and many people will need to learn from it.
If you can do a favour to me I want build a new house in Canada ontario the plumbing will be under slab there is no basement its will some thing harder for me because I'm not a plumber license but I know well in plumbing job .
If you send to you my plan and just drow to just for main floor plan im worry only from the kitchen vent because its there window and foundation i can't make in the wall .
Sorry for the delayed .
It sounds like you need to contact a plumber in your area.
how deep is the trench under the house? I know outside the house goes about 2 feet for the sewer pipe
I've seen the drain pipes above the soil in crawlspace, it's more important to have them lower when outside of house exterior.
how much footage of 3" piping did you need
If the building is 14 feet wide, then maybe 20 feet for the section under the house.
You need to make the clean out at the front of the house a bi directional clean out fitting opposed to a sanitary tee leading away from all your fixtures.
Sounds good.
I got a house but can't figure out the schematic , well my laundry drain stopped up every year or so no more than 2 years , locking on your schematic I'm not sure that is the configuration on my drain, anyway because is too difficult to insert the snake from the roof inside of the roof vent for my laundry this is what I did , I add a few inches above the water valve ( hot and cold) for my laundry machine I installed a clean up throwght the wall , this way I can use the snake from outside of my house and not from inside of laundry room, the 10 years I leaving in this house when the drain stopped up this made water screw up my wall , then I have remove the shirock and repainted , this is why on my case I recommend to install a clean up on the laundry drain , but I don't know if this make a broke a code , please let me know. Thank you
I've never heard of any code issues from adding a clean out as long as it was installed correctly.
Hi which country you're please
USA
👍👍🌹🌹
How deep needs to be the pipes from dirt??
why you don't merge vent ?
You can.
Underground plumbing can not be < than 2". fittings mus be sweep (90s) or the combination of 2 45s is acceptable. slope 1/8" per ft. so water don't out run solids , CO or Clean Out , I rather use 2 combo wyes back to back outside the house, 1 facing inward just in case of any clogs the trunk line can be snaked from outside and therefore avoiding making a mess inside the house by bringing in tools + snake and the smelly stuff coming with it when snaking. besides , 3" clean out T's inside a typical 2x4 wall doesn't always work because it'll be protruding through the drywall and installing it sideways to make fit it is not such of a good idea. I seen it done before. In a 1 level house the best thing is to make it a wet vent with all 2" piping coming out the ground and fittings are cheaper than 3".
Do you have the building code reference numbers for your suggested comments?
we call the combination wye a combi
Combos and combies and who knows what else they're called by other construction workers. Thanks for sharing.
1. Slope requirement on 3" is 1/8" per foot.....not 1/4". 2. You cannot use a san-t on it's side or back to connect an intersecting drain line. Yes I know, you refer to them as combos but san-t fittings are what you have in your illustrations.
According to UPC, 3” is required to have 1/4” and 4” is allowed to have 1/8”. And what he has in his illustrations are combo wyes. Not sanitary tees. The only santees he had he used them vertically. Watch again.
@@pizzaman4907 In the jurisdictions I've worked in, it's 1/4" for 2 1/2" or smaller and 1/8" for 3" or larger. Don't know why and wasn't even aware of this discrepancy between code publications. My IRC says 1/8" for 3" or larger. Hmmmmm. Very interesting.
The fitting though..... Those are 100% NOT combo fittings. They ARE san t's.
@@SomeDumUsrName no they’re combo wyes.. you can tell because they have a long sweep as opposed to a short sweep.
@@pizzaman4907 lol. You don’t know much about the subject. I suggest you go look at the differences ASIDE from the sweep. That sweep is not the big difference nor the most important one. Wyes will not allow waste to drop straight into connected horizontal line. They first direct the waste in the general direction of travel of the horizontal line BEFORE that waste drops into the horizontal line. It’s all about maintaining forward velocity. The illustrated fittings will NOT do that because they are san t’s. It’s easy to see once you understand. Though he may talk of using combo’s, that is NOT what is in his illustrations.
@@SomeDumUsrName my guy if you go to 6:46 you can CLEARLY tell it’s a combo. Not a santee. A santee doesn’t have the sweep a combo does therefore allowing the waste to be guided down the trunk line and not fall straight or land upstream. If you look at the horizontal trunk line he shows you can tell they are Combos.