My pops is a master plumber and contractor out of Arkansas. I been around plumbing my whole life, and he always told me to do a quarter turn every time you glue a fitting on a pipe to push the air out.
I'm currently training (from the ground up) unironically and that's what my teacher/boss told me to do because it helps give the pipe, primer and glue the chemical reaction it needs to seal properly.
THE #1 Most completely fully detailed underground rough plumbing video on RUclips. You deserve an award for this one. I’m about ready to start my ADU and Jr ADU project, just waiting for plan corrections 1 review. This video is AWESOME!
It is always fun to do drain work as well. On my jobs with remodeling, I'd have some kids that would see my tote containers and say it looks like tinkertoys and want to play with all the pieces. Using a chop saw is really nice even on three and four inch schedule 40. Rolling the pipe if it wouldn't cut all the way through works as well. In our area, it's okay to have a clean out extended up after the inspection and the test plug was removed and would be checked on the final inspection. As always each area is different with codes. Using purple primer is liked in our area as well because it shows the fittings were primed too. Nice clean job and the back filling done really well. So important to make sure you fill under the pipes and making them secure and holding the fall as well. Thank you for all the details even with using tapcons to hold your lines. I find it just as easy since I have the tools to do it on hand. Great Job Josh 🔨👍🏻
Oh yes, that’s a good option to have the clean out extend up. In this case it would be right in the bathroom and I did not want to have that in the middle of the floor. If I have to snake the plumbing , I can just go through the toilet drain. We must use purple primer here as well to show proof that primer was used. It is amazing how every coding is different in different areas. The tap con trick works well and can place the string lines back on the block before I pour the concrete to make sure they are still perfectly in place. As always, thanks for the detailed comment David! Take care!
In the state where I live you can't use 1 1/2 underground. When I did groundwork as a plumber we used regular schedule 40 pvc. I am building a house now. I had to catch a kitchen, laundry room, and 3 bathrooms. That was some serious piping!!! I used a mini excavator to dig for my lines.
I am a carpenter,I love watching videos on building, your videos are very well explained,when I started in this business,I wish I could have worked with someone like u,your a very good teacher,thanks for your time...
*Josh, I just read your About Section, I started my channel to make a difference,* in helping Others wanting to learn as well, Although I don't know everything, It's good to see someone else of the same mindset and I look forward to hear from you by for now Ken
You did a great job with the plumbing, the only thing I do differently is I never run 1 1/2 underneath concrete I always size up to 2” but code let’s you use 1 1/2 but me being a service plumber aswell I’ve have seen more blockages in 1 1/2 pipe than 2” pipe. But great job it looks very professional.
I appreciate that! I really do enjoy plumbing. I found a very interesting how you can bring water in and take waste out in a controlled environment. Thanks a lot for your input on this video. Thanks for watching!
not picking on you. just helping with more info. 2 inch pipe is the smallest one should use underground. horizontal dry vents are illegal so if you turned that vent into a wall cleanout it would make it legal. also idk if your walls are wood or cmu but if they were wood you wouldnt need to run a drain line for your lav because you could dirty arm off that vent in wall less piping underground the better. also not just deburing pipe but you should ream it with a reamer. there is videos out there that will show you why you should ream it. you should do ten feet for head pressure when you fill your pipe for the hydrostatic test. i will say as someone who does this for a living you explained it very well. probably the best ive ever heard. the application is great. keep in mind i understand we all have different codes in areas. ours code does not allow foam core in the ground.
also for someone who is a beginner i would run string lines for both sides of all your walls. it doesnt take much longer and you wont forget which side of the string you need to be on. just another one of those prep steps that make a huge difference.
Appreciate the video, in school for plumbing and myself and a couple other good students were starting a rough in and didn't quite see the full picture yet.
Very cool! In my area building seems to be more profitable than flipping. So I understand your decision. I hope you can get some pointers from this video. Good luck with your endeavor!
First, I'll like to say thank you! for this type of content you put out there for us rookies, DIY's or youngsters like me who's freshly entering the trade, Ton of respect for your skill and work! Your ability to switch between wiring,plumbing,framing it's insane! I wanted to ask how is it possible to get the best of both worlds being a carpenter but also having an interest for plumbing? I'd like to switch between both but an apprenticeship forces me to commit to one. Love to hear your insight on this, Thanks!
Congratulations on your new journey! I have always done plumbing in my own houses and kudos to you for doing what you’re doing. It’s amazing how much more lucrative trade jobs are then there’s jobs these days. Keep me informed with how everything is going! You are welcome!
Josh, I've been watching your videos and actually taking notes (not joking) and I appreciate how detailed you are with explaining what you're doing and why, that is very useful information. I have a problem that I hope you can help me with. I will be building an apartment inside an existing metal garage that already has a concrete floor and I'm stumped at how I can run the slopes for the waste drains at the appropriate 1/4" per foot recommendations, without having to cut into the concrete floor. Other than building the floor up a foot or more, I'm at a loss on finding my options. I have looked everywhere for a video that shows someone installing plumbing on top of their existing concrete. I don't want to cut into the concrete, so what options do you see that I have? I will be doing most of the build myself so easier is always better for me. I'm old, I have a spinal injury and will be working on this on weekends going paycheck to paycheck. Thanks again for all that you do in helping us understand things while we build our dreams.
For anybody watching this you do not have to use solid core PVC for residential application. Foam core PVC is perfectly fine for a normal single-family home with normal soil. If you had unstable soil and you were having to suspend the piping from the structural slab, then you would need to use solid core PVC, if not and you just have a normal situation 4 inch concrete, 4 inch layer of wash stone foam core PVC is perfectly fine. This is coming from a plumbing designer and also confirm with Charlotte pipe and foundry. There’s a huge misconception here with people thinking they need pressure rated piping is simply not true from an engineering standpoint it’s a unnecessary expense. However, this is a great video, and I actually learned something from a plumbing construction standpoint.
Thanks a lot! How do you consider vapor/insulation for slab? glad to see, My city inspector asks water level above roof for leak test. such traditional slab sewer is so hard to repair and I will never use it - Use sunken slab with tunnel for pipes. Thanks a lot! For vent through concrete block, you get to cement it first. For clean out, you get to leave it out some where - I don't think it can be used as clean out.
Good stuff. I can say though, as others have, about the 1 1/2 pipe. 2" minimum. Acutally, i think our local codes forbid 1 1/2 under slabs and definitely 3" under slabs. They are only allowed if there is a crawl space.
Just curious, why did you install the test tee under the slab rather than outside where it could be used as a cleanout in the future? Great work love the videos just curious about that.
@@edwardmccoy274 but then it is inside the wall or on the floor of the interior of the building. It makes way more sense to put it on the other side of the wall, either way you have to attach a adapter and riser plus cap.
What app do u use for your drawings. By the way, I’ve learned a lot from your videos. You explain very thoroughly. I have run all my electrical and did the PEX plumbing, and ventilation for my mini house, with the help of your instructional videos. I could use this app for my drawings, on future projects.
Good video. A few things that I know dont work for Florida code ( there quite particular down here.) ANyway, did you by chance have a video to show any hacks on how to layout the initial lines to measure your future walls and such.
Wrap your toilets with a foam wrap (2 " thick around) right where the concrete foundation😢 will be poured...so in case they move during the backfill you can just slap an offset flang instead haveing to chip up concrete to get your toilet in the right spot
Thank you for the very detailed video. I have a question: around the 21:14 mark on your video when your 3" toilet pipe is running toward the street there is a 2" downward pipe I am guessing that is an air vent or some vanity drain pipe. Isn't it against the plumbing code to have that way where the toilet waste could get into that 2" pipe? Thanks!
Great Video. Can you (or someone) direct me to info on free-standing tub rough-in before pouring concrete? Specifically the filler kit, the slab is the finished floor. Thnx again!!
Bi-metal refers to the sawzal blade itself. Basically means they use 2 types of metals, some hardened high carbon for the teeth and softer metal for most the blade. But I get your point,; using a blade designed to cut metal works best indeed.
@16:00 You're suing a long sweep 90 vertically to tie into your horizontal line. Pretty sure you need to use a combo wye (directionally) for that connection.
I see you used Heavy Duty cement for the PVC. I just plumbed a bath (not subfloored yet) and used the Medium Duty (which the can says it suitable for 4" and less. Did I make a booboo? Thx again
Medium PVC cement should be good up to 6 inches I believe. It depends on the manufacturer, of course. Be sure to reference the manufactures recommendation. Hope that helps!
@The Excellent Laborer Hey thanks. I just looked and actually used Regular cement, which is good for up to 4" . My max is 3"/toilet and 1 1/2" for the sink and tub. According to the can it should be good.
Most codes require a 2” for all sinks. The trap arm will be 1 1/2 , but not the underground lines. Also, get the reamer/ deburing tool- way faster and better.
@@tehapu7358 When I said sink, I should have clarified that I meant kitchen, sculary (sp), etc. - fixtures with 1 1/2 tailpieces or 2” lever drains- lavatories have an 1 1/4 tailpiece and are 1 fixture unit. Pro tip- there’s no “ getting away “ with anything here, it’s either code compliant or wrong, sorry.
Not being out of the way cause I appreciate what you do, but in my southeast region of the US 2 inch is the smallest pipe you can use underneath a slab.
I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question, but when you laid out the walls in the beginning of the video and figured 4 foot 6 inches. Did you know that by a scale from the drawings? I see the stairs and the wall but I am not quite sure how you knew it would be 4 foot 6.
Are the fittings that special solid pvc like the pipes. Or are they cell core? I never knew there were two types of schedule 40 pvc types so just wanna make sure there’s diff type fittings as well?
I am planning a bathroom project in a building with a slab that has never been plumbed for anything. I would like to run the drain line from toilet, shower, and vanity above the concrete and exit the building out through the back wall with - one drain line. Basically, build a 10' X 10' floor, run lines to wall with no cutting into the concrete slab at all. Most videos show chopping out the cement and repouring. I can't find one that does it the way I describe. I would welcome any thoughts anyone has on this plan. I am concerned about over all gravity drop once the drain clears the building. Thank you
@@devinnorsworthy9154 LOL ... All plumbing inspections still require 10' water test - and always have had. Just go around new construction sites to see for yourself. I didn't made that rule, it is a basic requirement for testing joints.
@@andrey162000 Are you a plumber ? Gravity tests have always been around, and still are. You won't pass rough inspection without gravity test. It is a basic requirement to test glue and No-Hub joints. How else would you test them ? LOL
@bruhen361diverI have a toilet that has always almost overflowed, swirled very slowly, then drained slowly, barely emptied if at all, then the bowl slowly refilled or only filled enough to keep gasses from coming past the throat opening. I finally removed the toilet, put a cell phone camera on a stick and found that the 3" pipe has a 90 degree elbow (not a sweeper, but a vent elbow). I tried snaking the drain, but it will only make the turn and another few inches until out of sight. When I tried to wiggle it to help out, I heard water splashing. Do you think replacing the toiled with one which has the Sloan "Flush Mate" valve or am I looking at busting up the slab?
That's not what he did.... He mentions at the end he just tucked the open end of the PEX into the other conduit to hold it there, but in reality one conduit is PEX and the other is electrical wire.
You didn't drive rebar stakes and tape securely the pvc at your risers throughout the plumbing slab rough. In the event of a leak or ground water under the slab, the fill dirt under pipes will settle and you will lose fall. This will also pull apart fittings at shower drain flanges and possibly toilet flanges.
I really appreciate the extra time you’ve taken to teach all of us.
You are very welcome! I love making these videos and sharing them. Thanks for being a part of the community!
I’ll second that!
My pops is a master plumber and contractor out of Arkansas. I been around plumbing my whole life, and he always told me to do a quarter turn every time you glue a fitting on a pipe to push the air out.
7:40
I'm currently training (from the ground up) unironically and that's what my teacher/boss told me to do because it helps give the pipe, primer and glue the chemical reaction it needs to seal properly.
THE #1 Most completely fully detailed underground rough plumbing video on RUclips. You deserve an award for this one. I’m about ready to start my ADU and Jr ADU project, just waiting for plan corrections 1 review. This video is AWESOME!
Excellent job, clean, organized. Speaks volumes for your work. Great instructions.
It is always fun to do drain work as well. On my jobs with remodeling, I'd have some kids that would see my tote containers and say it looks like tinkertoys and want to play with all the pieces. Using a chop saw is really nice even on three and four inch schedule 40. Rolling the pipe if it wouldn't cut all the way through works as well. In our area, it's okay to have a clean out extended up after the inspection and the test plug was removed and would be checked on the final inspection. As always each area is different with codes. Using purple primer is liked in our area as well because it shows the fittings were primed too. Nice clean job and the back filling done really well. So important to make sure you fill under the pipes and making them secure and holding the fall as well.
Thank you for all the details even with using tapcons to hold your lines. I find it just as easy since I have the tools to do it on hand. Great Job Josh 🔨👍🏻
Oh yes, that’s a good option to have the clean out extend up. In this case it would be right in the bathroom and I did not want to have that in the middle of the floor. If I have to snake the plumbing , I can just go through the toilet drain. We must use purple primer here as well to show proof that primer was used. It is amazing how every coding is different in different areas. The tap con trick works well and can place the string lines back on the block before I pour the concrete to make sure they are still perfectly in place. As always, thanks for the detailed comment David! Take care!
In the state where I live you can't use 1 1/2 underground. When I did groundwork as a plumber we used regular schedule 40 pvc. I am building a house now. I had to catch a kitchen, laundry room, and 3 bathrooms. That was some serious piping!!! I used a mini excavator to dig for my lines.
I am a carpenter,I love watching videos on building, your videos are very well explained,when I started in this business,I wish I could have worked with someone like u,your a very good teacher,thanks for your time...
*Josh, I just read your About Section, I started my channel to make a difference,* in helping Others wanting to learn as well, Although I don't know everything, It's good to see someone else of the same mindset and I look forward to hear from you by for now Ken
Yes, I certainly don’t know everything either. I do like to share what I do when it comes to building. Thanks for watching!
I'd have a good day working with this guy! Easy going, explains in an easy way.very knowledgeable .
Thanks Levi! I’m glad you like my content!
You did a great job with the plumbing, the only thing I do differently is I never run 1 1/2 underneath concrete I always size up to 2” but code let’s you use 1 1/2 but me being a service plumber aswell I’ve have seen more blockages in 1 1/2 pipe than 2” pipe. But great job it looks very professional.
I appreciate that! I really do enjoy plumbing. I found a very interesting how you can bring water in and take waste out in a controlled environment. Thanks a lot for your input on this video. Thanks for watching!
I totally agree about the 2 ins. Drain pipes
Excellent job.
Always great to see a professional at work.
I appreciate that Albert! Good luck with your projects, and take care!
Vague description of "Professional"
I love this ch learning so much now i won't have a clueless look when plumbers explained something if i ever need to hire one
not picking on you. just helping with more info. 2 inch pipe is the smallest one should use underground. horizontal dry vents are illegal so if you turned that vent into a wall cleanout it would make it legal. also idk if your walls are wood or cmu but if they were wood you wouldnt need to run a drain line for your lav because you could dirty arm off that vent in wall less piping underground the better. also not just deburing pipe but you should ream it with a reamer. there is videos out there that will show you why you should ream it. you should do ten feet for head pressure when you fill your pipe for the hydrostatic test. i will say as someone who does this for a living you explained it very well. probably the best ive ever heard. the application is great. keep in mind i understand we all have different codes in areas. ours code does not allow foam core in the ground.
also for someone who is a beginner i would run string lines for both sides of all your walls. it doesnt take much longer and you wont forget which side of the string you need to be on. just another one of those prep steps that make a huge difference.
You can bury 1.5 pipe for tub trap arms and traps
No u shouldn't use foam core I hate it plus I agree I would only put 2 inch underground.inch and half is to small.
@@EEJosh8I’ll bet you do rookie
@@EEJosh8 Just b/c you are allowed doesn’t mean you should. Remember, the code is the min you should use. Better to be safe than sorry 🤙
Appreciate the video, in school for plumbing and myself and a couple other good students were starting a rough in and didn't quite see the full picture yet.
Great description of what needs to be achieved when fitting your pipe work 🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Thank you for this! I'm moving over to building from fix and flip. This came right on time.
Very cool! In my area building seems to be more profitable than flipping. So I understand your decision. I hope you can get some pointers from this video. Good luck with your endeavor!
Love your videos! Learned more from your videos than any book.
Videos of powerful media source to learn online. I’m so thankful I can help Rob. Thanks for watching!
You really bring the “ain’t nothin to it but to do it!” Attitude 😂 not revenant to my project but I’ll probably watch twice and 👍
I hope my videos are helpful for you. Good luck with your project!
Good luck and peace to whoever is reading this! You did a great job! Thank you, wish you health and success!☺️
First, I'll like to say thank you! for this type of content you put out there for us rookies, DIY's or youngsters like me who's freshly entering the trade, Ton of respect for your skill and work! Your ability to switch between wiring,plumbing,framing it's insane! I wanted to ask how is it possible to get the best of both worlds being a carpenter but also having an interest for plumbing? I'd like to switch between both but an apprenticeship forces me to commit to one. Love to hear your insight on this, Thanks!
Pretty awesome to see this as I just started my plumbing journey last week.
Thanks for sharing
Congratulations on your new journey! I have always done plumbing in my own houses and kudos to you for doing what you’re doing. It’s amazing how much more lucrative trade jobs are then there’s jobs these days. Keep me informed with how everything is going!
You are welcome!
I hope the journey didn't begin in Kentucky because EVERYTHING this guy installed would be INCORRECT and ILLEGAL in my state.
Am a beginner and I hope this channel will help me thank you
Josh, I've been watching your videos and actually taking notes (not joking) and I appreciate how detailed you are with explaining what you're doing and why, that is very useful information. I have a problem that I hope you can help me with. I will be building an apartment inside an existing metal garage that already has a concrete floor and I'm stumped at how I can run the slopes for the waste drains at the appropriate 1/4" per foot recommendations, without having to cut into the concrete floor. Other than building the floor up a foot or more, I'm at a loss on finding my options.
I have looked everywhere for a video that shows someone installing plumbing on top of their existing concrete. I don't want to cut into the concrete, so what options do you see that I have? I will be doing most of the build myself so easier is always better for me. I'm old, I have a spinal injury and will be working on this on weekends going paycheck to paycheck. Thanks again for all that you do in helping us understand things while we build our dreams.
This Video was EXCELLENT and very easy to follow. Teaching is a Skill 👏👏. I will definately sign up for all your videos. 👍
This wall very well explained and excellent tutorial. Thank you
Great video bruv, as a beginner I’ve learnt a lot from you. And I’m looking forward to learn more from you big ups 👍
Great Video! I like it…”Glueing and Going”. 👍
Hell yea josh appreciate the tips, interested in building myself a single apt/30x30 shop setup....
Very good job on the plumbing underground I like it!
Been plumbing for 4 years. Very helpful video. Thanks
Thank you! Lots of info, great video illustrations. Learned a lot.
@@bolapromatoqueejogodecampe8718 You are welcome. I’m glad I could help!
Learned something new. Thank you.
Glad I can help. Thanks Civilian Dan!
For anybody watching this you do not have to use solid core PVC for residential application. Foam core PVC is perfectly fine for a normal single-family home with normal soil. If you had unstable soil and you were having to suspend the piping from the structural slab, then you would need to use solid core PVC, if not and you just have a normal situation 4 inch concrete, 4 inch layer of wash stone foam core PVC is perfectly fine. This is coming from a plumbing designer and also confirm with Charlotte pipe and foundry. There’s a huge misconception here with people thinking they need pressure rated piping is simply not true from an engineering standpoint it’s a unnecessary expense.
However, this is a great video, and I actually learned something from a plumbing construction standpoint.
I didn't know the difference, but I used foam core under my slab. The foam core is buried under crushed rock.
@@earlreid6811 You're good.
@@winterfar2814 Thanks
Excellent, excellent video, Excellent Laborer!
I hope you get a mil subs soon, you make the best videos to follow along with. No detail missed, and a wealth of knowledge.
Excellent video dude, you're a hard worker.
I appreciate that! It is a lot of work, but rewarding, so it is worth it to me. I hope everything is going good with your projects. Take care!
Thanks a lot! How do you consider vapor/insulation for slab? glad to see, My city inspector asks water level above roof for leak test. such traditional slab sewer is so hard to repair and I will never use it - Use sunken slab with tunnel for pipes. Thanks a lot! For vent through concrete block, you get to cement it first. For clean out, you get to leave it out some where - I don't think it can be used as clean out.
I love plumbing its such good trade very fun
Good stuff.
I can say though, as others have, about the 1 1/2 pipe. 2" minimum. Acutally, i think our local codes forbid 1 1/2 under slabs and definitely 3" under slabs. They are only allowed if there is a crawl space.
Watching this while 💩 and seeing what will happen when I flush the toilet 🚽. Great job btw!!!
I enjoy your videos keep up the good work.
Thanks for letting me know Robert! I love seeing subscribers like you coming on my videos. It means a lot. Take care!
Great tips for some of us novice dyirs
Seriously thank you for this video. You did an awesome job explaining this stuff.
You’re welcome John. I always enjoy doing my own plumbing work. I hope the video helps you. Take care!
Good teacher indeed,am still a plumbing student,it could be better if I can reach you sir
This man is good at plumbing
Just curious, why did you install the test tee under the slab rather than outside where it could be used as a cleanout in the future? Great work love the videos just curious about that.
Test tee cannot be used as cleanout. However he could have installed a two way cleanout outside and used that to test.
You can use that test tee as a clean out, put a four inch male adapter and a riser on it...
@@edwardmccoy274 but then it is inside the wall or on the floor of the interior of the building. It makes way more sense to put it on the other side of the wall, either way you have to attach a adapter and riser plus cap.
What state are you in?
*👍🏻... Excellent job on being Thorough.*
Thanks for sharing I look forward to hear from you bye for new friend Ken
You’re welcome, Ken thanks for watching!
nice job only thing i would have done different is increased the the 1-1/2 to 2 inch and the 3inch to 4... I always oversize under a slab!!
Great video man. Doing UG plumbing for my basement and this helped me out.
What app do u use for your drawings. By the way, I’ve learned a lot from your videos. You explain very thoroughly. I have run all my electrical and did the PEX plumbing, and ventilation for my mini house, with the help of your instructional videos. I could use this app for my drawings, on future projects.
The app is Freeform on Apple products. Sounds like your mini house is going well. Good luck with the rest of your house. Take care!
@@TheExcellentLaborer thank you sir. It’s coming along.
Good video. A few things that I know dont work for Florida code ( there quite particular down here.) ANyway, did you by chance have a video to show any hacks on how to layout the initial lines to measure your future walls and such.
Great work!
Thank you, William!
Good video very detailed thank you!
Thank you for this Excelent video.
For inspection,you don’t have to have a 8-10 ft tall stand pipe for head pressure when testing the drain lines? Here in NC they want that
Everywhere they want that. UPC.
That’s what I figured. Must not care wherever he’s at. The pipe he used to fill up the system was no more than 4 ft tall
Very professional and lm happy to see tgis🏗️🏫
Good work bro 👌
Wrap your toilets with a foam wrap (2 " thick around) right where the concrete foundation😢 will be poured...so in case they move during the backfill you can just slap an offset flang instead haveing to chip up concrete to get your toilet in the right spot
Love these videos
Thank you so much! I hope you find them helpful. Take care!
Amazing work I just subscribed
Thanks! Enjoy the content!
Very informative.
thank you for sharing sir. i've learned a lot. how can i have a test balloon?
Thank you for the very detailed video. I have a question: around the 21:14 mark on your video when your 3" toilet pipe is running toward the street there is a 2" downward pipe I am guessing that is an air vent or some vanity drain pipe. Isn't it against the plumbing code to have that way where the toilet waste could get into that 2" pipe? Thanks!
Well done thanks
No problem 👍
Great Video.
Can you (or someone) direct me to info on free-standing tub rough-in before pouring concrete? Specifically the filler kit, the slab is the finished floor. Thnx again!!
Should I backfill with sand around pipe or just throw 3/4” crush over it all?
A lot of work. Makes it seem so easy to split underground years down the road
Great stuff
Thank you Amber!
Awesome!
Thank you. I appreciate that!
thanks
You’re welcome!
Bi-metal refers to the sawzal blade itself. Basically means they use 2 types of metals, some hardened high carbon for the teeth and softer metal for most the blade.
But I get your point,; using a blade designed to cut metal works best indeed.
@16:00 You're suing a long sweep 90 vertically to tie into your horizontal line. Pretty sure you need to use a combo wye (directionally) for that connection.
No
I see you used Heavy Duty cement for the PVC. I just plumbed a bath (not subfloored yet) and used the Medium Duty (which the can says it suitable for 4" and less. Did I make a booboo? Thx again
Medium PVC cement should be good up to 6 inches I believe. It depends on the manufacturer, of course. Be sure to reference the manufactures recommendation. Hope that helps!
@The Excellent Laborer Hey thanks. I just looked and actually used Regular cement, which is good for up to 4" . My max is 3"/toilet and 1 1/2" for the sink and tub. According to the can it should be good.
Your application is a non pressurized one. Primed and glued,you'll be fine.
So how do you get the toilet flange on once the concrete is laid? Do you remove it around the pipe before it cures?
Most codes require a 2” for all sinks. The trap arm will be 1 1/2 , but not the underground lines.
Also, get the reamer/ deburing tool- way faster and better.
I'm thinkin' lavs are only one unit and I think you can get away with inch and a half. Could be wrong..
@@tehapu7358 When I said sink, I should have clarified that I meant kitchen, sculary (sp), etc. - fixtures with 1 1/2 tailpieces or 2” lever drains- lavatories have an 1 1/4 tailpiece and are 1 fixture unit.
Pro tip- there’s no “ getting away “ with anything here, it’s either code compliant or wrong, sorry.
What software application did you use to draw your plans?
Freeform. It is on Mac. I hope that helps!
Not being out of the way cause I appreciate what you do, but in my southeast region of the US 2 inch is the smallest pipe you can use underneath a slab.
15:10 what is the area you are building that requires 18" below grade?
I am currently working with the worst plumber I have ever met. This is refreshing to see.
I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question, but when you laid out the walls in the beginning of the video and figured 4 foot 6 inches. Did you know that by a scale from the drawings? I see the stairs and the wall but I am not quite sure how you knew it would be 4 foot 6.
Don't you have to wrap the pipes where they touch poured concrete, like when they fill the foundation walls or thorough the slab floor?
How many inches is the 3" Día pipe ( that goes to the sewer system) below the bottom of the concrete slab
Excelente!!
Are the fittings that special solid pvc like the pipes. Or are they cell core? I never knew there were two types of schedule 40 pvc types so just wanna make sure there’s diff type fittings as well?
All fittings are solid
I am planning a bathroom project in a building with a slab that has never been plumbed for anything. I would like to run the drain line from toilet, shower, and vanity above the concrete and exit the building out through the back wall with - one drain line. Basically, build a 10' X 10' floor, run lines to wall with no cutting into the concrete slab at all. Most videos show chopping out the cement and repouring. I can't find one that does it the way I describe. I would welcome any thoughts anyone has on this plan. I am concerned about over all gravity drop once the drain clears the building. Thank you
is the pipe with red and blue just going down into the dirt ?
Is the vent pipe schedul1 40 pvc? Or is it a different material?
It is schedule 40 as well. I hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thank you! Also, is it called "vent" because it goes through the vent on the roof to access the outside?
Do the pipe have to be set at a certain angle?
As per Code, that 2" vertical water test pipe should be 10' tall to properly apply test pressure on glue joints.
Still doing what he was taught lol... plenties of that going around. They been updating code around here.
Maybe it’s his updated code lol, codes do evolve year after year, some states and provinces stuck in the Stone Age and punishing their trades
@@devinnorsworthy9154 LOL ... All plumbing inspections still require 10' water test - and always have had. Just go around new construction sites to see for yourself. I didn't made that rule, it is a basic requirement for testing joints.
@@andrey162000 Are you a plumber ? Gravity tests have always been around, and still are. You won't pass rough inspection without gravity test. It is a basic requirement to test glue and No-Hub joints. How else would you test them ? LOL
Yes, plumber, 20 years, did 10 ft colomn test 2 times. Both times in some little village in the boonies. Just saying air test is definitive.
For Drain you used PVC -- is ABS not allowed?
We are not allowed to go in a smaller than 2 inches underground here in Michigan or Kentucky
I've watched all the house building videos, the appliance installation videos and most of the electrical videos - now begins the plumbing videos
I hope you find them helpful!
@bruhen361diverI have a toilet that has always almost overflowed, swirled very slowly, then drained slowly, barely emptied if at all, then the bowl slowly refilled or only filled enough to keep gasses from coming past the throat opening. I finally removed the toilet, put a cell phone camera on a stick and found that the 3" pipe has a 90 degree elbow (not a sweeper, but a vent elbow). I tried snaking the drain, but it will only make the turn and another few inches until out of sight. When I tried to wiggle it to help out, I heard water splashing. Do you think replacing the toiled with one which has the Sloan "Flush Mate" valve or am I looking at busting up the slab?
Electrical and plumbing in the same conduit? That’s a first for me.
That's not what he did.... He mentions at the end he just tucked the open end of the PEX into the other conduit to hold it there, but in reality one conduit is PEX and the other is electrical wire.
What app did you use for your drawings?
Freeform. It’s an Apple app. I hope that helps!
If you're a contractor...I would love to work with you... Nice 👍🏾💯 and clean plumbing
How are you going to clean out your drains in it ever gets clogged there’s no clean out drain?
Why not just put your level right on the pipe as you glue it instead of dry fitting and making a mark? Saves you so much time
lm happy to see this🏗️🏫🏫🏫🏫🏫🏫🏫🏫
You didn't drive rebar stakes and tape securely the pvc at your risers throughout the plumbing slab rough. In the event of a leak or ground water under the slab, the fill dirt under pipes will settle and you will lose fall. This will also pull apart fittings at shower drain flanges and possibly toilet flanges.
Are you high?
I'm just kidding, lol. You must be experienced. I worked under a Master Plumber, and we drove rebar stakes into the ground to support the new pipes.