As an architecture student, these kinds of things are immensely helpful. Watching the communication between trades and design teams is like a gold mine of information. Please do more of this kind of thing.
Smart move on the outer drain PVC to be used as an outer tube for the water outside the house. In planning, I would have done the same thing for the fresh water plumbing under the slab. A few years ago I had to replace all my under the slab fresh water (city water) pipes by going through the attic to the various locations since there is no under slab access. Of course the original pipes started leaking under the foundation. Age of course. If I were to be planning/building/remodeling a new/old house, I would have put in a 2" PVC pipe to each of the plumbing locations and pulled 3/4" PEX tubing through the 2" PVC. I would use (2) inch 45 degree angle connectors for each turn as the PEX would move through a few 45 degree angles than a 90 degree angle. You could actually pull in 2 new PEX tubes one for current use and one caped for future use. Five or six years ago I had to replace my city water feed from the cities water meter to the far side of my house. Of course it was redone with 3/4' PVC. About a week later the city was putting in new digital water meters and twisted my PVC pipe causing a crack on the inside of my property line, unknown to them. The city water worker was checking the meter install and saw that the meter was constantly running. She knocked on the door and informed me. I fixed it and the city did not bill me for any water over my monthly average. That is when I thought about the next time digging up the city water pipe and installing a 2" PVC pipe as a protective tube and be used for easy reinstall of 3/4" PEX tubing the next time there is a leak.
I put hot and cold water lines in the slab by running ENT conduit as a sleeve. The pex pipe is pulled through once the framing is up. (I use the Canadian brand because in California it is less expensive.)
I use Uponor pex A. I buy it from whoever has the best price....Ferguson, Supply house, etc. I prefer to do home runs to a valved manifold and include a recirculation line on the hot water 🚿.
Hey Matt at the beginning of the series you said you were passionate about changing the way we build houses I guess that a quote was for RUclips It's easy to talk the talk But alot harder to walk the walk Take care Ray
Separating your floor drains from your dwv is such a smart move. As a drain cleaner I can't tell you the number of times I have seen a house flooded with sewage because of a backup coming up the floor drains. It's nice too that this slab will be high enough that you can just daylight that drain to the outside of the foundation instead of having to put a French drain in. Also since the floor drains aren't connected to the sewer, you shouldn't have to worry about sewer gas meaning they technically don't need p-traps, just a check valve at the exit should be enough to keep anything from getting in there from the outside, theoretically that is.
Ok I’ve never seen sandbags like that. I so wish they had been discussed and not skipped over. Isn’t that a big section under the slab that will not be solid…? I mean there is nothing to glue in essence the sand in the bag together. The cement poured over will create an encapsulated cavity of loose sand and air pockets that the cement doesn’t get in between.
Good, interesting video! Two comments 1. I don’t understand why you ran the incoming water line under the garage slab, rather than running directly into the front of the home, making a shorter distance under the slab, 2. I hope you will be there when they run the power line from the pole. PS: When my tract home was being built, 20 years ago, I was there when they were putting in the water line and sewer. The home has a full basement (live in a NW suburb of Chicago) and the sewer line was to be in the corner of the basement, which was ok, but the water line was to come in the middle of the basement. I asked the guy installing this if he could put it close to where the drain line was, and he said he could and he did. My lot has a 5’ perimeter easement for utilities, I wasn’t there when they put in the power line. The sub ran the line diagonally across my back yard, rather than around in the easement. This caused me a real headache when we were pouring 13… 10”x48” deep concrete piers for a 16’x48’ deck. The contractor I hired hit the power line on the first hole (Julie had marked everything, but it wasn’t that accurate). This cost me time and money.
I've never seen where air to test pipes is allowed. Out here in the Phoenix Metro area/cities, it is all done by water. Where you have the last vent pipe go 10' up in the air and the cleanout is blocked with a baloon fitting and then the entire system is filled with water to the top of the vent. and xx hours (ussually 24 hrs) is then verified it hasnt moved. The gas lines however are tested with air preasure and ussually hold preasure for 7 days I believe.
Heck of a lot easier to just build out a basement and put all your mechanicals and systems in the easily accessible basement - better yet, build said basement w/ multiple access points, such as direct access from the garage, from the 1st floor and another direct access via the backyard (even if it requires a “forced walk-out”), then y’all can add a few “day-light” windows for legal egress, thus having a great amount of “conditioned” storage space, true storm-safety locations and eventually, legally acknowledged space that can be finished out at arguably a lower $/sqft rate than the builder would charge if s/he did the build-out…. having owned, as personal residences, 15 homes, btwn 2800-5000 sqft, over the last 30 yrs (TN, GA, MN, OH, NJ, NC, OH, IN, TX and now AR), we’ve always preferred basement homes…. WALDT
This is the part that is preventing me from building my own home. Encasing things in concrete (especially when the price of concrete is so high) just freaks me out. I can frame and do electric and finish, but planning utilities under slab is just so daunting and permanent to me.
I would never do a slab on grade they are terrible, much better off putting in a crawlspace, once that slab is poured the mechanicals cant be moved and any repairs down the road ( which will happen) are a major undertaking. Crawlspaces are also great for storage space. In my area s.o.g. are frowned upon in new construction.
For years when I was stationed in Japan I would see them have houses like this. The parents part is built to wheelchair and handicapped standards. Along with the parents area having its own entrance it would have an elevator they could take up to their kids residence.
I too label pipes and conduits. It’s professional and labeling completes one’s work. After occupancy starts It doesn’t take long for confusion or puzzlement to set in. Or the person who knows what and why a pipe or circuit or support exists, isn’t available. For outdoor labels and some indoor labels I use engraved phenalic (plastic) labels….essentialy what are sometimes used on office doors or employees desks. Not expensive. Ask for phenalic rated for exterior use.
I have been looking into the best way to do this. If you read this and have time to reply, please reply include the brands and equipment you use - if any. Thank you!!!
I suggest going to a shop that makes plaques or trophies to get the labels. I worked at a tank-farm and we had our own engraver and I made mine from scrap pieces as I needed them. Maybe an Office Max store can do it. Possibly some shop that calls themselves sign makers can do it. I think an Office Depot office max or a trophy shop would be the best bet. The sign engravers start at about $3500, so that’s a poor option. The phenolic or plant sheets come in various top color and a contrasting back color. The engrave routes away the top color exposing the back color essentially giving your eye to ways to read the message. Wish u success.
For your emergency drains (HVAC, Washer, Dishwasher, etc.), what are you tying that into? Sewer line, French drain, out to the grass? I'm a bit confused as to where you are running those lines. I'm a builder in Central Florida and I want to add this features into the homes I build. Thank you.
How are you tying the new foundation to the old - are you drilling holes for rebar to tie into or are you sinking anchors into the old slab? How are you approaching termite pre-treatment in the disturbed soil areas, since Chlordane application is illegal?
Hey Matt, for the emergency drains you guys mentioned not wanting "wet-traps, because wet-traps typically fail". How is a wet-trap different than the p-traps you are installing with the mineral oil? Thanks, -CODY
A wet trap is typically primed with water. So drains that don't get used regularly will evaporate the water out of the trap causing a gas leak. By using mineral oil the trap will stay primed for a very long time since the oil doesn't evaporate rapidly.
There are two new small commercial builds in the small coastal city in NJ where I live. They placed the interior concrete floor slab then not too long after proceeded to jackhammer the whole thing out. A local contractor told me if they made a mistake on under slab piping they are not allowed to just jack hammer out a small area to move the pipe. The slab has to be monolithic. Does this sound right? Is it because we are in a flood zone. Thanks for any input.
Hmm 🤔 you just made me wonder… how does a basement normally handle drainage? Do you have to use pumps or something. Like that? (Assuming sewage is a street level like an otherwise typical home without a basement)
I really like all of your videos and channel, but this one has the preconstruction meeting with the. different stakeholders or subcontractors chiming in To sort out any issues.
It's only a matter of time until I get shown one of these 3D model things and asked to give an estimate on a central vac (that's what I do). Everyone wants to send me the 2D plan drawings and seem surprised that I can't see what I need...
We have been using these models for years as our principal used to be a 3d artist. Seriously reduces MEP conflicts by 95% when you can virtually lay in every pipe , wire and duct accounting for slope and such. Also a lifesaver onsite to be able to show subs clearances with models of the exact fittings they use. That is the future for sure, just time consuming to model it all
It's just a tar paper being held by tape. You could use house wrap, hell you could use saran wrap, it's just to keep the concrete off the pipe until it's cured.
@@Solidbuilthomes It's to protect the pipe from the chemicals/minerals in the concrete, PVC isn't as reactive as say steel or copper (which it's very important to insulate in slab) when it comes to penetrating concreate but it can still oxidize the PVC quicker and cause it to be brittle over it's lifetime.
They made some of the walls 2x6 at specific locations to have room for drains and/or vents. Matt said he missed that on his plans for his personal house.
That plumbing meeting was painful. Most of your work is top notch but watching that as a commercial plumber from Canada hurt, or code wouldn't allow most of that
I still can’t understand the long term benefits of residential slab construction. Why not just use crawl spaces, basements, or elevate a little with pilings? Why rob yourself of access and maintainability?
Hi guys! Nice big screen and all the people gathered together. But when you're demonstrating; fingers and hands and arms are really no good. People should be handed pointers or maybe laser pointers so that people can see the whole schematic. When the fingers are used, pointing with fingers and arms is in the way. It's unprofessional. It should be separated and you should have some type of pointing device with a point at the end.
It too bad you didn't install water lines in the slab Install pex in pipe You're missing a huge opportunity to save time and money by installing water lines in the slab When you install pex in pipe you will have replaceable plumbing Why would not want this
I use 2" pvc with electrical sweeps and pull pex lines just like wire Water lines become replaceable I run home runs to each room and then ter off Best place to run home runs is at the sinks then tee off to the shower and toilet Home runs run from the water heater to the bathroom and kitchen sink
This is where you're wrong Instilling pipe in the slab takes a fraction of the cost and time How much did it cost to install the pipe you used for your main water lone? All you have to do is do that 4 more times and your done and it's simple to pull prx I'm later No drilling holes mo ladders and if you have a failure then you flood your home With pex in pipe a failure won't flood your home and all the water lines are replaceable forever In your plumbing lines get contaminated you can replace your water lines you can easily replaceable Why would want that The first home I used this system was in 1997 and been doing since Again it takes a fraction of the cost and time Take care Ray
Homes built on a slab are shit and you see nothing but the cheapest fixtures and appliances for homes that are built on a slab. Take it from a service plumber. Builders like them because it's cheaper. Can shave up to $10k off the price of materials. Also allows them to build the home faster. Stay away from homes built on a slab.
why cant the plumbers terminate the pipes right below the top surface of the slab, with foam or something around and on top of the pipe, so that when concrete is poured it can be screeded and finished without bumping into the pipes? you could just cut away a thin square over each pipe after, pull away the foam and couple more pipe to it. i know a typical concrete crew would probably trample submerged pipes but it would just be so much easier to pour without those f*cking pipes sticking out. has nobody really done that? also, why is there not a product, from stego, where its a vapor barrier sheet made into a tube and then flattening out into a square so you can have clean tape lines around the pipe and on the vapor barrier laid on the ground for plumbing coming up through slabs? trying to seal a hole in vapor barrier by wrapping tape around a zillion times is just so unsatisfying and will never be as tight as having some shaped piece of plastic specific for that purpose...
As an architecture student, these kinds of things are immensely helpful. Watching the communication between trades and design teams is like a gold mine of information. Please do more of this kind of thing.
great to watch professionals planning this out, it gives you a nice insight of what goes into a quality build.
I appreciate that!
Smart move on the outer drain PVC to be used as an outer tube for the water outside the house. In planning, I would have done the same thing for the fresh water plumbing under the slab. A few years ago I had to replace all my under the slab fresh water (city water) pipes by going through the attic to the various locations since there is no under slab access. Of course the original pipes started leaking under the foundation. Age of course. If I were to be planning/building/remodeling a new/old house, I would have put in a 2" PVC pipe to each of the plumbing locations and pulled 3/4" PEX tubing through the 2" PVC. I would use (2) inch 45 degree angle connectors for each turn as the PEX would move through a few 45 degree angles than a 90 degree angle. You could actually pull in 2 new PEX tubes one for current use and one caped for future use.
Five or six years ago I had to replace my city water feed from the cities water meter to the far side of my house. Of course it was redone with 3/4' PVC. About a week later the city was putting in new digital water meters and twisted my PVC pipe causing a crack on the inside of my property line, unknown to them. The city water worker was checking the meter install and saw that the meter was constantly running. She knocked on the door and informed me. I fixed it and the city did not bill me for any water over my monthly average. That is when I thought about the next time digging up the city water pipe and installing a 2" PVC pipe as a protective tube and be used for easy reinstall of 3/4" PEX tubing the next time there is a leak.
Impressive presentation for residential construction, helps understanding it
Appreciate that.
I put hot and cold water lines in the slab by running ENT conduit as a sleeve. The pex pipe is pulled through once the framing is up. (I use the Canadian brand because in California it is less expensive.)
Where do you get the pex?
I use Uponor pex A. I buy it from whoever has the best price....Ferguson, Supply house, etc.
I prefer to do home runs to a valved manifold and include a recirculation line on the hot water 🚿.
I use 2" pvc with electrical sweeps and ENT will work too
Good job
That's a super smart process.
Hey Matt at the beginning of the series you said you were passionate about changing the way we build houses
I guess that a quote was for RUclips
It's easy to talk the talk
But alot harder to walk the walk
Take care Ray
Separating your floor drains from your dwv is such a smart move. As a drain cleaner I can't tell you the number of times I have seen a house flooded with sewage because of a backup coming up the floor drains. It's nice too that this slab will be high enough that you can just daylight that drain to the outside of the foundation instead of having to put a French drain in. Also since the floor drains aren't connected to the sewer, you shouldn't have to worry about sewer gas meaning they technically don't need p-traps, just a check valve at the exit should be enough to keep anything from getting in there from the outside, theoretically that is.
Great informative video. Please keep these coming!
Ok I’ve never seen sandbags like that. I so wish they had been discussed and not skipped over. Isn’t that a big section under the slab that will not be solid…? I mean there is nothing to glue in essence the sand in the bag together. The cement poured over will create an encapsulated cavity of loose sand and air pockets that the cement doesn’t get in between.
OK, good feedback. I’m meeting my engineer on Friday to film episode four. I’ll make sure we mention that.
Good, interesting video! Two comments 1. I don’t understand why you ran the incoming water line under the garage slab, rather than running directly into the front of the home, making a shorter distance under the slab, 2. I hope you will be there when they run the power line from the pole.
PS: When my tract home was being built, 20 years ago, I was there when they were putting in the water line and sewer. The home has a full basement (live in a NW suburb of Chicago) and the sewer line was to be in the corner of the basement, which was ok, but the water line was to come in the middle of the basement. I asked the guy installing this if he could put it close to where the drain line was, and he said he could and he did. My lot has a 5’ perimeter easement for utilities, I wasn’t there when they put in the power line. The sub ran the line diagonally across my back yard, rather than around in the easement. This caused me a real headache when we were pouring 13… 10”x48” deep concrete piers for a 16’x48’ deck. The contractor I hired hit the power line on the first hole (Julie had marked everything, but it wasn’t that accurate). This cost me time and money.
The longer the runs the more water you waste waiting for hot water
Matt did a video on it
I've never seen where air to test pipes is allowed. Out here in the Phoenix Metro area/cities, it is all done by water. Where you have the last vent pipe go 10' up in the air and the cleanout is blocked with a baloon fitting and then the entire system is filled with water to the top of the vent. and xx hours (ussually 24 hrs) is then verified it hasnt moved. The gas lines however are tested with air preasure and ussually hold preasure for 7 days I believe.
Heck of a lot easier to just build out a basement and put all your mechanicals and systems in the easily accessible basement - better yet, build said basement w/ multiple access points, such as direct access from the garage, from the 1st floor and another direct access via the backyard (even if it requires a “forced walk-out”), then y’all can add a few “day-light” windows for legal egress, thus having a great amount of “conditioned” storage space, true storm-safety locations and eventually, legally acknowledged space that can be finished out at arguably a lower $/sqft rate than the builder would charge if s/he did the build-out…. having owned, as personal residences, 15 homes, btwn 2800-5000 sqft, over the last 30 yrs (TN, GA, MN, OH, NJ, NC, OH, IN, TX and now AR), we’ve always preferred basement homes…. WALDT
Bingo!
"Under Slab" is like welding shut the hood on your car. Access is everything.
Maybe you missed the first part but they are building on solid rock here. No chance for a basement unless you’ve got some dynamite.
This is the part that is preventing me from building my own home. Encasing things in concrete (especially when the price of concrete is so high) just freaks me out. I can frame and do electric and finish, but planning utilities under slab is just so daunting and permanent to me.
@@johnowens178 You can always have a 3 ft crawl space on solid rock
lets go baby!
so yall get together like this and say yeah the 50 gallon water heater is perfect for an attic!
Amazing!
I would never do a slab on grade they are terrible, much better off putting in a crawlspace, once that slab is poured the mechanicals cant be moved and any repairs down the road ( which will happen) are a major undertaking. Crawlspaces are also great for storage space. In my area s.o.g. are frowned upon in new construction.
Thank you for this video.. 1 question please, You said you ran no water lines in the slab...but all water lines overhead? Meaning above the ceiling??
For years when I was stationed in Japan I would see them have houses like this. The parents part is built to wheelchair and handicapped standards. Along with the parents area having its own entrance it would have an elevator they could take up to their kids residence.
In Wisconsin would be 6 to 8 feet deep with the water pipe
I too label pipes and conduits. It’s professional and labeling completes one’s work. After occupancy starts It doesn’t take long for confusion or puzzlement to set in. Or the person who knows what and why a pipe or circuit or support exists, isn’t available. For outdoor labels and some indoor labels I use engraved phenalic (plastic) labels….essentialy what are sometimes used on office doors or employees desks. Not expensive. Ask for phenalic rated for exterior use.
I have been looking into the best way to do this. If you read this and have time to reply, please reply include the brands and equipment you use - if any. Thank you!!!
I suggest going to a shop that makes plaques or trophies to get the labels. I worked at a tank-farm and we had our own engraver and I made mine from scrap pieces as I needed them. Maybe an Office Max store can do it. Possibly some shop that calls themselves sign makers can do it. I think an Office Depot office max or a trophy shop would be the best bet. The sign engravers start at about $3500, so that’s a poor option. The phenolic or plant sheets come in various top color and a contrasting back color. The engrave routes away the top color exposing the back color essentially giving your eye to ways to read the message. Wish u success.
@@loridave1962 Thankyou so much! Very helpful :-)
For your emergency drains (HVAC, Washer, Dishwasher, etc.), what are you tying that into? Sewer line, French drain, out to the grass? I'm a bit confused as to where you are running those lines. I'm a builder in Central Florida and I want to add this features into the homes I build. Thank you.
How are you tying the new foundation to the old - are you drilling holes for rebar to tie into or are you sinking anchors into the old slab? How are you approaching termite pre-treatment in the disturbed soil areas, since Chlordane application is illegal?
Hey Matt, for the emergency drains you guys mentioned not wanting "wet-traps, because wet-traps typically fail". How is a wet-trap different than the p-traps you are installing with the mineral oil? Thanks, -CODY
A wet trap is typically primed with water. So drains that don't get used regularly will evaporate the water out of the trap causing a gas leak. By using mineral oil the trap will stay primed for a very long time since the oil doesn't evaporate rapidly.
There are two new small commercial builds in the small coastal city in NJ where I live. They placed the interior concrete floor slab then not too long after proceeded to jackhammer the whole thing out.
A local contractor told me if they made a mistake on under slab piping they are not allowed to just jack hammer out a small area to move the pipe. The slab has to be monolithic. Does this sound right? Is it because we are in a flood zone. Thanks for any input.
Weird. Unsure why
2ft for a water line. NY is at 8ft down.
"Under Slab" is like welding shut the hood on your car. Basements Rule. Access is everything.
Hmm 🤔 you just made me wonder… how does a basement normally handle drainage? Do you have to use pumps or something. Like that? (Assuming sewage is a street level like an otherwise typical home without a basement)
I really like all of your videos and channel, but this one has the preconstruction meeting with the. different stakeholders or subcontractors chiming in To sort out any issues.
It's only a matter of time until I get shown one of these 3D model things and asked to give an estimate on a central vac (that's what I do). Everyone wants to send me the 2D plan drawings and seem surprised that I can't see what I need...
We have been using these models for years as our principal used to be a 3d artist. Seriously reduces MEP conflicts by 95% when you can virtually lay in every pipe , wire and duct accounting for slope and such. Also a lifesaver onsite to be able to show subs clearances with models of the exact fittings they use. That is the future for sure, just time consuming to model it all
@@Ninjump They need to put central vac tubing and fittings in this thing, so I can actually make use of this too.
Your doctor wife just cringed when you said "blood veins".
I wish designers would put the roof penetrations as far to the edges of the roof planes as possible, to keep the area clear for solar panels.
Physically impossible based on code and how ventilation works for plumbing.
Hey Matt If you don't want to learn how to solve the problem of installing plumbing in the slab I understand
Take care Ray
What watersofter is being used ?
Have you thought about a water softener?
I wonder why he is not using an instant water heater. He has used them before so this is interesting.
WHy cant you run the pluming throught house instead of the concrete?
?
Now, how do you plan for this in an earthquake area?
Can someone please elaborate more on the black pipe sleeves? What product is being used? .... cant just be tape because it moves up and down.....🤙
It's just a tar paper being held by tape. You could use house wrap, hell you could use saran wrap, it's just to keep the concrete off the pipe until it's cured.
@paulstone3032 thank you..... is this just to keep the vent & drain pipes from cracking??
@@Solidbuilthomes It's to protect the pipe from the chemicals/minerals in the concrete, PVC isn't as reactive as say steel or copper (which it's very important to insulate in slab) when it comes to penetrating concreate but it can still oxidize the PVC quicker and cause it to be brittle over it's lifetime.
Are these digital tools available for Canada, BC ?
What was Matt saying about a 2x4 vs 2x6 wall around the 18:00 mark?
They made some of the walls 2x6 at specific locations to have room for drains and/or vents. Matt said he missed that on his plans for his personal house.
Does your plumber run the gas lines too?
Yes
Gas line can be sleeved in pipe also
Make sure its a 30 year label
That plumbing meeting was painful. Most of your work is top notch but watching that as a commercial plumber from Canada hurt, or code wouldn't allow most of that
Totally different climate here with different requirements
Austin isn't Canada. They don't even usually use frost free hydrants.
Under slab insulation. Any true numbers to justify it?
For comfort or cost? It makes the house more comfortable during cold weather. Is it worth the price differential is another question.
I still can’t understand the long term benefits of residential slab construction. Why not just use crawl spaces, basements, or elevate a little with pilings? Why rob yourself of access and maintainability?
Hi guys! Nice big screen and all the people gathered together.
But when you're demonstrating; fingers and hands and arms are really no good. People should be handed pointers or maybe laser pointers so that people can see the whole schematic. When the fingers are used, pointing with fingers and arms is in the way. It's unprofessional. It should be separated and you should have some type of pointing device with a point at the end.
We test our DWV AT 6psi then moves the needle to 6psi 😂
It too bad you didn't install water lines in the slab
Install pex in pipe
You're missing a huge opportunity to save time and money by installing water lines in the slab
When you install pex in pipe you will have replaceable plumbing
Why would not want this
cost
@@dlg5485a fraction of the cost and time
I use 2" pvc with electrical sweeps and pull pex lines just like wire
Water lines become replaceable
I run home runs to each room and then ter off
Best place to run home runs is at the sinks then tee off to the shower and toilet
Home runs run from the water heater to the bathroom and kitchen sink
Interesting, I think that would be a relatively costly upgrade compared to running them overhead. Stay tuned for the top out plumbing episode.
This is where you're wrong
Instilling pipe in the slab takes a fraction of the cost and time
How much did it cost to install the pipe you used for your main water lone?
All you have to do is do that 4 more times and your done and it's simple to pull prx I'm later
No drilling holes mo ladders and if you have a failure then you flood your home
With pex in pipe a failure won't flood your home and all the water lines are replaceable forever
In your plumbing lines get contaminated you can replace your water lines you can easily replaceable
Why would want that
The first home I used this system was in 1997 and been doing since
Again it takes a fraction of the cost and time
Take care Ray
Why did you destroy a slab to install plumbing with the intent of pouring a new slab on top? We install the plumbing first then pour the slab.
This was an existing slab from a previous building tear down.
😂
Using air is on PVC or ABS is Dangerous and illeagal
You’re not supposed to test plastic under air pressure. Should be a vacuum or water test.
Insulating the "cold" slab in that climate zone is costing you more than you gain. You are losing the cooling and spending a ton of money to do it.
Looks like government work., but it will come to plan.... Jeez
Homes built on a slab are shit and you see nothing but the cheapest fixtures and appliances for homes that are built on a slab. Take it from a service plumber. Builders like them because it's cheaper. Can shave up to $10k off the price of materials. Also allows them to build the home faster. Stay away from homes built on a slab.
why cant the plumbers terminate the pipes right below the top surface of the slab, with foam or something around and on top of the pipe, so that when concrete is poured it can be screeded and finished without bumping into the pipes? you could just cut away a thin square over each pipe after, pull away the foam and couple more pipe to it. i know a typical concrete crew would probably trample submerged pipes but it would just be so much easier to pour without those f*cking pipes sticking out. has nobody really done that?
also, why is there not a product, from stego, where its a vapor barrier sheet made into a tube and then flattening out into a square so you can have clean tape lines around the pipe and on the vapor barrier laid on the ground for plumbing coming up through slabs? trying to seal a hole in vapor barrier by wrapping tape around a zillion times is just so unsatisfying and will never be as tight as having some shaped piece of plastic specific for that purpose...
Valid points.