In at 804. Like your frank speaking about the job and the trades with their individual power problems and the way you use that spider box. I've been on jobs as a demo super-sub, and had to hot-leg power from the panel because Edison didn't want us to use anything but receptacles for our gear and they were all broken and mostly unusable. Texas isn't much different from California where I was working from Palm Springs, and we had bugs, spiders, and snakes show up every night and try to take over the job site. The best security we found was a hungry mountain lion inside the perimeter fence, which the ASPCA and F&G said "No!" most firmly ... but if you didn't stay on site, things got lost - a lot! Ah well ... I'm retired now and that's all behind me as I fish for trout in Montana. Love your videos and I'm just glad it's someone else doing the work now.
Your homes are the standard I wish every builder strived for and adopted. A one amp exhaust fan 24-7 will use just over 1000kwh per year or avreage of $150/yr for the electricty and if fan was put on a 30 minute automatic on per use with average 5x per day for every bathroom the power would cost less than $20/yr saving the homeowner over $130/yr per bathroom. I am not sold that adding SPAN a very complex electrical balancing/reporting/control system to adding some remote control, reporting, and save one time costs of a larger main service is a sound idea for the most important system in a home. Installation, Repair, and servicing will be limited to only contractors trained in fixing SPAN panels making quick restoration of service more costly and likely take much longer to diagnose repair and replace parts that are not widely and readily available. Ray
Love the idea of the water heater in a room with hot equipment. It's going to get hot in there when the water heater isn't running, but the HVAC will absorb that.
For the exhaust fans we did an ERV but instead of pulling air at the same time off all restrooms, we did timers with motorized dampers… so if one restroom is in use, the ERV goes to max but all the other dampers close, so i have full ERV capacity just on the bathroom in use… I also connect the ERV to my make up air unit for the vent a hood… so when the vent a hood is running, all the exhaust dampers closes and ERV just bring air to the house…..
@@grinchyfaceI have dry contact timers on each zone that I need exhaust air, and all this inputs goes to a relay array I design to allow the damper that is running to open, bring ERV to high stage and close an intake I have on the top of the enclosed attic that pull air on low stage
@@novaair2481 does the cfm on your ERV match your vent hood cfm? And unless your able to shut off the exhaust fan in your ERV, wouldn't closing off all exhaust pathways do harm to your fan motor? I really like your bathroom idea though
Another option on penetrations through your air barrier is to have a single removable board that the electrician can drill all the holes in in advance (including spares), and then tape and seal the board after rough-in is completed.
I am an electrician by trade (mainly industrial). 50 yrs. If I was wiring my house right now, all my romex runs would be in the same chase and 90 to the devices. No beeline. All circuits would be isolated to each room. Lightning and receptacle circuit the same for each room. No running romex through wall studs. Tons of more wiring and cost but that is what I would do. My present home has a 12:12 roof pitch with plenty of attic space. The wiring looks like a spider web up there.
@@crikescrikes2465 Its mainly about personal preference than importance and keeping all wiring to code. I generally do not like drilling holes into ceiling joists. No wiring laying on top of ceiling joists. All the romex branch circuit runs can be routed close to where the roof rafters join onto the walls. Then the romex can branch out between ceiling joists and fastened to the side of the ceiling joists to feed light boxes and where needed, penetrate top plate of walls for receptacle feeds. Actually, running romex through wall studs for receptacle feeds in the room is fine. Having an individual branch circuit just feeding each room (lights & receps) is more about organization in the electrical panel. Easy peasy to isolate if needed. Of course, it depends alot on your floor plan. I like attic storage. Floor decking is easier when wiring is not laying on top of ceiling joists and drilling holes in ceiling joists is not what I would do. My dream house would have a master bath for each bedroom and a walk in closet. A large utility room and kitchen. The house doesn't need to be huge, just functional. Builders and sub contractors always seem to be stuck doing it same old same old.
With the ring floods, you should be able to set a zone in the app for the flood light trigger. You could just remove the sidewalk from the zone -- will also help curb any nuisance notifications!
Whirlpool and LG make them. I bought the LG one. Haven't hooked it up yet but it has great reviews. Mine is ventless too so I have no penetrations and the energy star website says they use as much as 28% less energy. The only "downside" I've heard about is drying times can be 3+ hours but I'm rarely in a rush so I don't care
Mat, im thinking one of your best video, well maybe, because I'm building here in Wisconsin and plenty that I'd like to do that you had mentioned, about placement of things and the efficiency of how to place and where and why, I want to prep for security cameras on a 4/12 knowing that there's not a lot of room at the bottom where the wall and roof lines comes together as you did for that Fiber optical , how were you going to close that up to stop little things from getting in and how would close it up not to have a air funnel coming through it, let's say in my case after it all put together
Maintenance cost down the road on a home like this is going to be crazy. The convenience and control going in is awesome but electronics and automation components don't last forever. If you are wealthy, I suppose it won't matter much but for regular people, I think it will be a burden. 10 to 15 years in, HVAC replacement, water heating issues, ERV problems, faulty dampers, blown CPU in the SPAN, etc.
Thankfully with the SPAN -- which, I cant imagine getting close to 15 years of software support, compatibility with modern wifi (though hardwire is an option I believe), etc. Once it eventually reverts to a "dumb" panel it will still work as a standard panel, you'll just lose the fancy monitoring and control.
When I build, I want to use some of those bathroom occupancy sensors to fire up the hot water recirc pump for maybe 15-20 seconds, or until a temp sensor at the pump sees hot water. Makes a lot more sense to me than putting it on a timer or something. Probably put one in the kitchen too. Also, would love to use the same ERV instead of exhaust fan strategy, but I've got an idea to use a couple Fantech PB series exhaust vent/lights instead of the normal vent grills in the showers. Should look pretty clean, perform well, use fewer components and require less installation time. I don't like the idea of dumping the Dehu-air into the bathroom with an ERV exhaust right next to it. Seems like a waste to dump the energy into pulling water out of the air, only to load it up and dump it immediately outside.
Love the video like always. Cant wait to see the house finished. As electrical goes, have you ever dealt with whole-home surge/lightning suppression systems? With homes getting more and more smart items added, it seems like something is bound to get fried.
With the ERV’s running continuously in those spaces, doesn’t the HVAC have to run more to acclimate that air and adding to your utility usage? We install ERV’s in all of our homes but during extreme periods of hot/frigid weather, we have recommended to significantly dial back or turn off the ERV’s during those time periods- it’s a balance of humidity as well. But Texas faces longer hot spells than our Midwest climate. Curious what your thoughts are on that.
Absolutely, ventilating when the outside air is hotter/colder or wetter/dryer than the desired indoor air will always come with an energy penalty. ERVs do a good job of minimizing the penalty, but it's still there.
Hilarious…just got to the part of the video where he’s going with a Sonos system…hard pass I love tech and have a background in computer science…but these expensive home integrations based on the company remaining solvent and altruistic is a bad long term move. Keep it simple and off the cloud Hue hub and bulbs, WiFi thermostat, UniFi PoE camera system, and mostly call it done
You can tell someone knows nothing about audio nor care when they install speakers in "walls" and make an open room design their home theater room with zero sound treatment...
14:34 - California code change, other states may start to adopt 15:06 - "Other states will start adopting it, its pretty cool" 15:08 - "Wow" - Probably my favorite response, props for keeping it pro 🤣
there are people in climates (California) where we open the windows most of the days of the year ..except maybe ten (now (global warming?)probably 20 days a summer) and couple months winter) a sealed up house sounds tough..cooling job site is certainly not justified....I guess the humidity is your killer? In bay area we have not had even a freeze in years..and a few days of 100....Almost always cool at night...marine effect....
I love that you use all 12-x and not any 14-x wire... I hate that people go cheap and when your doing a whole house, they save $2k by doing all wire where possible 14 guage. The future home owner doesnt understand the difference, but when they use that bedroom line and sitting in bed with a hair dryer watching tv, 12 vs 14 really shows its benefit. Where is whenever women hair dry in the bathroom, it's not that big of a deal because the bathroom is required to be 12. But the bedroom is only required to be 14 by code, and so most electricians will do the cheaper option. I hate using 14 gauge. Just because of the performance. I prefer working with it definitely, it is so much easier to work with. But when it comes to those power draw demands just upgrading everything to 12 gauge and even if you want to upgrade the bedrooms to a 20 amp circuit versus the 15. And also and wish more electricians would be more realistic on placements of outlet boxes. I know it's the 6 ft rule so it can be up to 12 but between boxes for code, but whenever you have a long wall and because the code is written the way it is it allows me to put just a single outlet in the middle of that wall and then now let on the side wall is just a little bit around really really sucks. I wish that they would work with the homeowners or see where the bed will go here just by the layout of the room so this is where nightstands would be so it would be nice to have an outlet or in that area on both sides. My master bedroom was built by a production builder in 2019, and in the master bedroom behind the bed wall they put a single outlet in the middle and it ends up being right in the middle of the back of the bed and so if I ever have to plug in anything or move anything I have to completely disassemble my bed to move it because it's so big and heavy just a plug in something! So when I moved in I put two power strips one going off the left and one going off to the right and it's just a chanky way of having to get electric service behind my nightstand
Don't use plumbing pipe for electrical conduit. It is now listed for that use. The elbows do not have the correct radius as well. If you kink telecom/low volt wire you wreck it.
How do you air seal your garage? Current code that is pretty much everywhere requires that you have to have fresh air venting that is non-mechanical so the register in the wall exposing outside based on the size of the garage is how big that register needs to be and they do that so you don't have your car running in the garage and close the door and you take a nap and go to never never land. But that is code for pretty much every build for like 20 years now and I think even longer than that especially if you have natural gas or propane service. Out in Phoenix, or we get 115 120° days multiple times a year and we're above 115 for about 60 days a year and then above a hundred for like a hundred one days a year, I built my house to have an air conditioned garage. But I have to have two giant holes in the side of my garage for registered scoring the outside vents that point downwards in the stucco, one at the bottom, and one at the top with 14 ft ceilings. And it sucks having those massive hot air leaks in my garage but it gets required. I did turn my house into a full smart home so everything is completely controlled by my home assistant server. Including ratgdo to replace the stupid Chamberlain Wi-Fi that is completely invasive. And I have air quality sensors everywhere throughout my entire house and so I was able to create a heat map in home assistant over the floor plan and so I can see the actual air quality pollution carbon monoxide carbon dioxide O2 levels formaldehyde levels and various gases and sear in real time heat map threw up entire house and set off alarms and alerts if levels get too high in certain areas. And then also having things like humidity sensors that when the shower runs or something the fans automatically turn on and run until the humidity drops the lowest certain period after X minutes has passed and maintained below that level. And insane with lighting putting radar sensors in every room so the lights are all controlled and if someone's been out of a room for more than 5 minutes the lights and devices all turn off. And because I'm using radar MM Wave, it can even tell if you're sitting still or breathing and I can even get someone breathing rate and heart rate sitting on the couch through a radar sensor which is absolutely insane, but I can count how many people are in a room due to that all kinds of other local stuff. Where your normal infrared motion sensors only detect motion and so if you're sitting still watching TV or something for more than a few minutes everything turns off on you and I'm sure we've all been there with those sensors
Yeah, the irony of the people who can afford to build homes like these are the folks who have no financial need for say…10% improved efficiency. But, with that said, the building techniques and better building detail does trickle down.
As an electrician, all I can say is there is no need to have smart capabilities integrated into an electrical. That is asking for so many issues down line from firmware and potential app issues to trying to source breakers locally in a pinch.
That’s now a modest starter home price in most areas. I live in a poor rural area in Arizona and a 4/3 stucco home in a basic subdivision, crap “semi-custom” home (basically tract homes with upgrades) is 400-500k.
it doesnt matter what name is on vehicle titles all real titles are at the title bureau. speaking of that were gonna get cracking on the admin. bldg this week in ravenna
So they are knowingly not upgrading the service to meet the potential demand and instead planning to manage it via a "Smart Panel". So which load are you going to have to go without when you don't have enough power? Two car chargers sucking up half the service capacity....
I don't know if a larger service gets billed higher than a 200 amp system... If it doesn't I'd rather have a dumb panel with fewer points of failure if the rates are the same. Also when the panel maker goes defunct you have no support or parts supply.
@@Foche_T._Schitt Seems kinda silly regardless to build a house and under supply it with electricity and need a smart panel to shut-off loads when there isn't enough power.
Rather then drilling a hole for each romex wire, why dont you do like they do in commercial space, use a 3-4 inch conduit that is about 5" long and use the protection rolled ends to keep wire from chaffiing, and put it all through that chaseway. Then after, completely pack and seal it with fireproof barear caulking/paste. Still gets you sealed and gives your electchickens an easier option
My HVAC guy hates and refuses to do an ERV boost in a bathroom. I wish I could remember why. He talked me into getting the Panasonic WhisperQuiets though my house isn't finished yet so I can't report on how good they are
They’re quiet and they have timers on the switches. If you want a more localized setup for each bathroom exhaust unit, that’s a good choice. Energy efficient yet not overly complex or tied to a larger system.
@buildshow Matt at 7:39 you stand in front of your SPAN panel and I see parallel runs of wire coming down the wall and making a 90 degree turn to the next stud. (Presumably to go up to the panel) Back in the seventies, I did this for wire runs an a cabin in Big Bear CA, and the inspector had me tear it all out and bunch all the wires through one big hole. Please help me understand why this is OK now...
Imagine forcing people to buy a $50 occupancy sensor which will slightly annoy you for decades just so you can save a few watt hours on your 9 watt LED bulb or your 15 watt light trim. An occupancy sensor that will without a doubt shit the bed decades before it even remotely pays for itself.
This video is brought to you and sponsored by ROMEX. Because expensive glorified extension cords running in your walls to feed the mice and bathe you in EMF’s is a good investment. ‘Let’s get going!!!!’
Actually they addressed that. But to answer your question, many of those romex runs are 15a runs. Color coded romex is relatively new, and many builders/electricians are only now making to switch to using the other than yellow colors. That said, who wouldn't rather just run 12ga everywhere, it's sure cheaper to do it now than regret ot later.
@@Eric-1701 I can agree with being somewhat liberal with running 12ga, but we’re only going down in energy usage not up. Tools, fridges, kitchen appliances, etc, all going down in watts used. No sense running 12ga for all your ceiling electrical needs or other areas that would only ever run built in low watt items. 12ga romex is 40% costlier than 14ga in most regions. That’s a lot of money for no reason.
All the talk and effort in air sealing the garage from the main structure but no true (unless Zip sheathing qualifies) fire rated separation. Texas, I guess....
22:00 Since code allows 16AWG for 10AMP breakers. Wouldn't be best to use that size for the smoke alarms? I honestly don't know if there are 16/3 cables yet.
That code provision wasn’t adopted as apart of 2023. It was in the drafts, but didn’t make the final. One day… On another note, it’s INSANE that they ran 12/2 to everything including lighting. Massively overkill and a PITA to deal with for smaller lights.
With these cloud-connected electrical panels, what would happen if Span went out of business? Presumably, the panel still works, but what about the management app? This is an obvious problem that I am sure Span has thought about. Else no one would buy this.
This. Any cloud connected device needs to also have local management capability. Otherwise, the company later on can just start charging subscription fees or just shut down the service entirely.
9 times out of 10, when the cloud service goes down, you're screwed. Or the company gets bought out a few years from now and the new owners start charging a monthly fee or start selling your power use data. Also, I'd be concerned about the long term reliability of the box. Maybe they did due diligence and the code is written to high reliability code standards but that's expensive and one of the first places they will cut costs. Is not going to be fun for the owners or warranty guarantor if the computer locks up over a weekend while everyone is away and a few grand of food goes bad. The load balancing is cool but that's a lot of potential downsides, not even including cost.
Yall need to engineer houses to be electrical contractor proof as someone who works for i can say stuff never gets done right the first time either sell with the gdp loss included or run piping in the plans all im saying nowadays
I think they're usually there so when each trade comes in, they can just scan it and know exactly what needs to be done in that area. Like what item/fixture goes there and type/brand, what service goes there, and/or what finishes go there. It can sometimes also bring up the blueprints so it shows measurements and locations of everything.
So the electronics in your "closet" with hot dehumidified return air, the LG unit cooling the air when it runs will rarely see stable air temperature which is ideal for electronics. I think you are trying to do too many thermal management steps in this closet. I invite talk on this point.
Hope someday to see a true discussion of the hazards of radio frequency and unshielded electrical wires. Cellular damage and mental health issues due to chronic EMF exposure is serious. Having a high-tech house is useless when your family is battling cancer, voltage-gated calcium disorder, and/or capillary hypo-perfusion. Give me a high-performance, low-tech home any day that allows proper sleep in an EMF-reduced indoor environment.
Even if you made the entire ceiling area of the garage a water tank it wouldn't hold enough water. It's a real issue that people are ignoring, yes it's rare and ICE cars catch fire more often but they are easier to put out. Please charge your vehicles outside.
@@paulstone3032 In Denver the Fire Dept uses a blanket once they have the flames tamed down and wrap the vehicle on EV fires. A suppression unit would slow the fire down. You can put out an ICE fire much quicker.
@@danheidel I wouldn't park vehicles in an attached garage regardless of type. It's better to have a lean-to though EV's wont like being out in the cold.
looks like were lined up in a wildcat double tight end, the jeft tackles gonna pull to the left, the center is gonna snap, ill jump in the air like a dummy. half back u cradle the ball like u want a baby in your tummy just keep following me ill walk u all the way to the safe
That house is going to pull as much electric as an entire block 20 years ago. This is nuts.
This was really great! Very helpful to have someone from california ask lots of curious questions, that's a good format
I love the idea of having a blue box walk thru before running any wire.
In at 804. Like your frank speaking about the job and the trades with their individual power problems and the way you use that spider box. I've been on jobs as a demo super-sub, and had to hot-leg power from the panel because Edison didn't want us to use anything but receptacles for our gear and they were all broken and mostly unusable.
Texas isn't much different from California where I was working from Palm Springs, and we had bugs, spiders, and snakes show up every night and try to take over the job site.
The best security we found was a hungry mountain lion inside the perimeter fence, which the ASPCA and F&G said "No!" most firmly ... but if you didn't stay on site, things got lost - a lot! Ah well ... I'm retired now and that's all behind me as I fish for trout in Montana.
Love your videos and I'm just glad it's someone else doing the work now.
Would love to have to have a Risinger home. Love the attention to detail and quality!!
Your homes are the standard I wish every builder strived for and adopted. A one amp exhaust fan 24-7 will use just over 1000kwh per year or avreage of $150/yr for the electricty and if fan was put on a 30 minute automatic on per use with average 5x per day for every bathroom the power would cost less than $20/yr saving the homeowner over $130/yr per bathroom. I am not sold that adding SPAN a very complex electrical balancing/reporting/control system to adding some remote control, reporting, and save one time costs of a larger main service is a sound idea for the most important system in a home. Installation, Repair, and servicing will be limited to only contractors trained in fixing SPAN panels making quick restoration of service more costly and likely take much longer to diagnose repair and replace parts that are not widely and readily available. Ray
Love the idea of the water heater in a room with hot equipment. It's going to get hot in there when the water heater isn't running, but the HVAC will absorb that.
For the exhaust fans we did an ERV but instead of pulling air at the same time off all restrooms, we did timers with motorized dampers… so if one restroom is in use, the ERV goes to max but all the other dampers close, so i have full ERV capacity just on the bathroom in use…
I also connect the ERV to my make up air unit for the vent a hood… so when the vent a hood is running, all the exhaust dampers closes and ERV just bring air to the house…..
That's clever, how are you triggering the ERV when the bathroom is in use? Which ERV did you spec?
@@grinchyfaceI have dry contact timers on each zone that I need exhaust air, and all this inputs goes to a relay array I design to allow the damper that is running to open, bring ERV to high stage and close an intake I have on the top of the enclosed attic that pull air on low stage
@@novaair2481 does the cfm on your ERV match your vent hood cfm? And unless your able to shut off the exhaust fan in your ERV, wouldn't closing off all exhaust pathways do harm to your fan motor?
I really like your bathroom idea though
It would be very interesting to see the water heater closet on a thermal camera once you are all done with this build.
Matt without a hat!!! Can’t believe I see this
Finally, energy management for homes at the main.
Another option on penetrations through your air barrier is to have a single removable board that the electrician can drill all the holes in in advance (including spares), and then tape and seal the board after rough-in is completed.
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO FULL OF INFORMATION
I am an electrician by trade (mainly industrial). 50 yrs. If I was wiring my house right now, all my romex runs would be in the same chase and 90 to the devices. No beeline. All circuits would be isolated to each room. Lightning and receptacle circuit the same for each room. No running romex through wall studs. Tons of more wiring and cost but that is what I would do. My present home has a 12:12 roof pitch with plenty of attic space. The wiring looks like a spider web up there.
Can you elaborate in layman’s terms about why it’s important?
@@crikescrikes2465 Its mainly about personal preference than importance and keeping all wiring to code. I generally do not like drilling holes into ceiling joists. No wiring laying on top of ceiling joists. All the romex branch circuit runs can be routed close to where the roof rafters join onto the walls. Then the romex can branch out between ceiling joists and fastened to the side of the ceiling joists to feed light boxes and where needed, penetrate top plate of walls for receptacle feeds. Actually, running romex through wall studs for receptacle feeds in the room is fine. Having an individual branch circuit just feeding each room (lights & receps) is more about organization in the electrical panel. Easy peasy to isolate if needed. Of course, it depends alot on your floor plan. I like attic storage. Floor decking is easier when wiring is not laying on top of ceiling joists and drilling holes in ceiling joists is not what I would do. My dream house would have a master bath for each bedroom and a walk in closet. A large utility room and kitchen. The house doesn't need to be huge, just functional. Builders and sub contractors always seem to be stuck doing it same old same old.
With the ring floods, you should be able to set a zone in the app for the flood light trigger. You could just remove the sidewalk from the zone -- will also help curb any nuisance notifications!
HEAT PUMP dryer!? never heard of that! thats awesome!
I love our Meile Heat pump dryer. 110v not vented.
Whirlpool and LG make them. I bought the LG one. Haven't hooked it up yet but it has great reviews. Mine is ventless too so I have no penetrations and the energy star website says they use as much as 28% less energy. The only "downside" I've heard about is drying times can be 3+ hours but I'm rarely in a rush so I don't care
@@deonfackler5588 how does it deal with large blankets?
Really like the lomger format episodes. Too many crucial details get missed in shorter episodes.
Mat, im thinking one of your best video, well maybe, because I'm building here in Wisconsin and plenty that I'd like to do that you had mentioned, about placement of things and the efficiency of how to place and where and why, I want to prep for security cameras on a 4/12 knowing that there's not a lot of room at the bottom where the wall and roof lines comes together as you did for that Fiber optical , how were you going to close that up to stop little things from getting in and how would close it up not to have a air funnel coming through it, let's say in my case after it all put together
I think would sooner spring for the upgrade in larger electrical service.
Maintenance cost down the road on a home like this is going to be crazy.
The convenience and control going in is awesome but electronics and automation components don't last forever. If you are wealthy, I suppose it won't matter much but for regular people, I think it will be a burden.
10 to 15 years in, HVAC replacement, water heating issues, ERV problems, faulty dampers, blown CPU in the SPAN, etc.
Thankfully with the SPAN -- which, I cant imagine getting close to 15 years of software support, compatibility with modern wifi (though hardwire is an option I believe), etc. Once it eventually reverts to a "dumb" panel it will still work as a standard panel, you'll just lose the fancy monitoring and control.
When I build, I want to use some of those bathroom occupancy sensors to fire up the hot water recirc pump for maybe 15-20 seconds, or until a temp sensor at the pump sees hot water. Makes a lot more sense to me than putting it on a timer or something. Probably put one in the kitchen too.
Also, would love to use the same ERV instead of exhaust fan strategy, but I've got an idea to use a couple Fantech PB series exhaust vent/lights instead of the normal vent grills in the showers. Should look pretty clean, perform well, use fewer components and require less installation time. I don't like the idea of dumping the Dehu-air into the bathroom with an ERV exhaust right next to it. Seems like a waste to dump the energy into pulling water out of the air, only to load it up and dump it immediately outside.
Love the video like always. Cant wait to see the house finished. As electrical goes, have you ever dealt with whole-home surge/lightning suppression systems? With homes getting more and more smart items added, it seems like something is bound to get fried.
It was a really good infomercial
With the ERV’s running continuously in those spaces, doesn’t the HVAC have to run more to acclimate that air and adding to your utility usage? We install ERV’s in all of our homes but during extreme periods of hot/frigid weather, we have recommended to significantly dial back or turn off the ERV’s during those time periods- it’s a balance of humidity as well. But Texas faces longer hot spells than our Midwest climate. Curious what your thoughts are on that.
Absolutely, ventilating when the outside air is hotter/colder or wetter/dryer than the desired indoor air will always come with an energy penalty. ERVs do a good job of minimizing the penalty, but it's still there.
necessity has always been the mother of invention... and that holds true today...
have you looked at the solar powered mini splits, run on DC so more efficient (no AC to DC conversion). Would be great for the garage.
The recent debacle and failure of Sonos and their App is reason enough to skip Span.
Keep it simple and off the cloud when you can
Hilarious…just got to the part of the video where he’s going with a Sonos system…hard pass
I love tech and have a background in computer science…but these expensive home integrations based on the company remaining solvent and altruistic is a bad long term move. Keep it simple and off the cloud
Hue hub and bulbs, WiFi thermostat, UniFi PoE camera system, and mostly call it done
You can tell someone knows nothing about audio nor care when they install speakers in "walls" and make an open room design their home theater room with zero sound treatment...
14:34 - California code change, other states may start to adopt
15:06 - "Other states will start adopting it, its pretty cool"
15:08 - "Wow" - Probably my favorite response, props for keeping it pro 🤣
there are people in climates (California) where we open the windows most of the days of the year ..except maybe ten (now (global warming?)probably 20 days a summer) and couple months winter) a sealed up house sounds tough..cooling job site is certainly not justified....I guess the humidity is your killer? In bay area we have not had even a freeze in years..and a few days of 100....Almost always cool at night...marine effect....
I love that you use all 12-x and not any 14-x wire... I hate that people go cheap and when your doing a whole house, they save $2k by doing all wire where possible 14 guage. The future home owner doesnt understand the difference, but when they use that bedroom line and sitting in bed with a hair dryer watching tv, 12 vs 14 really shows its benefit. Where is whenever women hair dry in the bathroom, it's not that big of a deal because the bathroom is required to be 12. But the bedroom is only required to be 14 by code, and so most electricians will do the cheaper option. I hate using 14 gauge. Just because of the performance. I prefer working with it definitely, it is so much easier to work with. But when it comes to those power draw demands just upgrading everything to 12 gauge and even if you want to upgrade the bedrooms to a 20 amp circuit versus the 15. And also and wish more electricians would be more realistic on placements of outlet boxes. I know it's the 6 ft rule so it can be up to 12 but between boxes for code, but whenever you have a long wall and because the code is written the way it is it allows me to put just a single outlet in the middle of that wall and then now let on the side wall is just a little bit around really really sucks. I wish that they would work with the homeowners or see where the bed will go here just by the layout of the room so this is where nightstands would be so it would be nice to have an outlet or in that area on both sides. My master bedroom was built by a production builder in 2019, and in the master bedroom behind the bed wall they put a single outlet in the middle and it ends up being right in the middle of the back of the bed and so if I ever have to plug in anything or move anything I have to completely disassemble my bed to move it because it's so big and heavy just a plug in something! So when I moved in I put two power strips one going off the left and one going off to the right and it's just a chanky way of having to get electric service behind my nightstand
Don't use plumbing pipe for electrical conduit. It is now listed for that use. The elbows do not have the correct radius as well. If you kink telecom/low volt wire you wreck it.
How do you air seal your garage? Current code that is pretty much everywhere requires that you have to have fresh air venting that is non-mechanical so the register in the wall exposing outside based on the size of the garage is how big that register needs to be and they do that so you don't have your car running in the garage and close the door and you take a nap and go to never never land. But that is code for pretty much every build for like 20 years now and I think even longer than that especially if you have natural gas or propane service. Out in Phoenix, or we get 115 120° days multiple times a year and we're above 115 for about 60 days a year and then above a hundred for like a hundred one days a year, I built my house to have an air conditioned garage. But I have to have two giant holes in the side of my garage for registered scoring the outside vents that point downwards in the stucco, one at the bottom, and one at the top with 14 ft ceilings. And it sucks having those massive hot air leaks in my garage but it gets required.
I did turn my house into a full smart home so everything is completely controlled by my home assistant server. Including ratgdo to replace the stupid Chamberlain Wi-Fi that is completely invasive. And I have air quality sensors everywhere throughout my entire house and so I was able to create a heat map in home assistant over the floor plan and so I can see the actual air quality pollution carbon monoxide carbon dioxide O2 levels formaldehyde levels and various gases and sear in real time heat map threw up entire house and set off alarms and alerts if levels get too high in certain areas. And then also having things like humidity sensors that when the shower runs or something the fans automatically turn on and run until the humidity drops the lowest certain period after X minutes has passed and maintained below that level. And insane with lighting putting radar sensors in every room so the lights are all controlled and if someone's been out of a room for more than 5 minutes the lights and devices all turn off. And because I'm using radar MM Wave, it can even tell if you're sitting still or breathing and I can even get someone breathing rate and heart rate sitting on the couch through a radar sensor which is absolutely insane, but I can count how many people are in a room due to that all kinds of other local stuff. Where your normal infrared motion sensors only detect motion and so if you're sitting still watching TV or something for more than a few minutes everything turns off on you and I'm sure we've all been there with those sensors
Tell me you have too much money without telling me you have too much money
Yeah, the irony of the people who can afford to build homes like these are the folks who have no financial need for say…10% improved efficiency.
But, with that said, the building techniques and better building detail does trickle down.
Will be tripping the Main breaker for sure
As an electrician, all I can say is there is no need to have smart capabilities integrated into an electrical. That is asking for so many issues down line from firmware and potential app issues to trying to source breakers locally in a pinch.
If your load calc goes over the 200 amps, like I’m sure it did for this house, that span panel makes a whole lot of sense!! Just my 2 cents though.
defense end infractment, penalties offset 15 mins in the watering hole
I would leave a service loop at the boxes rather than having the scrap that's going to be generated from the extra length at the boxes.
“Modest budget”, i.e. 500k in the Austin area
That’s now a modest starter home price in most areas. I live in a poor rural area in Arizona and a 4/3 stucco home in a basic subdivision, crap “semi-custom” home (basically tract homes with upgrades) is 400-500k.
Start using roxtec cable penetration system
it doesnt matter what name is on vehicle titles all real titles are at the title bureau. speaking of that were gonna get cracking on the admin. bldg this week in ravenna
So they are knowingly not upgrading the service to meet the potential demand and instead planning to manage it via a "Smart Panel". So which load are you going to have to go without when you don't have enough power? Two car chargers sucking up half the service capacity....
I don't know if a larger service gets billed higher than a 200 amp system... If it doesn't I'd rather have a dumb panel with fewer points of failure if the rates are the same.
Also when the panel maker goes defunct you have no support or parts supply.
@@Foche_T._Schitt Seems kinda silly regardless to build a house and under supply it with electricity and need a smart panel to shut-off loads when there isn't enough power.
Someday you should upgrade from nominal 110/220 to North American standard nominal 120V/240V.
115/230 needs to come first. lol
@@robertsteich7362oh no, it's Zeno's electrical code.
Idk if this is a joke, but everyone is on 120/240. Lots of people still say “110/220” though.
@@EthanMatlack
Kind of like how everyone still says Freon instead of refrigerant.
We are 120/240 in US.
Rather then drilling a hole for each romex wire, why dont you do like they do in commercial space, use a 3-4 inch conduit that is about 5" long and use the protection rolled ends to keep wire from chaffiing, and put it all through that chaseway. Then after, completely pack and seal it with fireproof barear caulking/paste. Still gets you sealed and gives your electchickens an easier option
This seems like a lot of technology for simple American house … do you really think the homeowner will adjust his loads or optimize the loads?
were going straight down one side and up the other side
My HVAC guy hates and refuses to do an ERV boost in a bathroom. I wish I could remember why. He talked me into getting the Panasonic WhisperQuiets though my house isn't finished yet so I can't report on how good they are
They’re quiet and they have timers on the switches. If you want a more localized setup for each bathroom exhaust unit, that’s a good choice. Energy efficient yet not overly complex or tied to a larger system.
Not only do I have an outlet behind each night stand but a pop out outlet at the night stand level for phone charging
@buildshow Matt at 7:39 you stand in front of your SPAN panel and I see parallel runs of wire coming down the wall and making a 90 degree turn to the next stud. (Presumably to go up to the panel) Back in the seventies, I did this for wire runs an a cabin in Big Bear CA, and the inspector had me tear it all out and bunch all the wires through one big hole. Please help me understand why
this is OK now...
Please share what is a modest budget. Thanks
Do you seal spare conduits as they pass from one level into the attic.
Could someone please share a link to the extension cord with built-in LED lights?
18:33 doesn’t the hole in top plate need to be sealed with fire stop or similar?
yea the front end does swallow more cash then the rear end does
kiss that one goodbye
Imagine forcing people to buy a $50 occupancy sensor which will slightly annoy you for decades just so you can save a few watt hours on your 9 watt LED bulb or your 15 watt light trim. An occupancy sensor that will without a doubt shit the bed decades before it even remotely pays for itself.
Last time I check which was about a month ago Span doesn’t make a meter main load center. Did something change?
I agree, i heard through the grapevine that they are working on a meter main, but wasn't aware it had been released.
This video is brought to you and sponsored by ROMEX. Because expensive glorified extension cords running in your walls to feed the mice and bathe you in EMF’s is a good investment. ‘Let’s get going!!!!’
The service size is a little concerning!
But the panel is a tesla charger, dont worry
Looks like everything is 20 amp (yellow wire) in TX. Is that code there?
Actually they addressed that. But to answer your question, many of those romex runs are 15a runs. Color coded romex is relatively new, and many builders/electricians are only now making to switch to using the other than yellow colors.
That said, who wouldn't rather just run 12ga everywhere, it's sure cheaper to do it now than regret ot later.
@@Eric-1701 I can agree with being somewhat liberal with running 12ga, but we’re only going down in energy usage not up. Tools, fridges, kitchen appliances, etc, all going down in watts used.
No sense running 12ga for all your ceiling electrical needs or other areas that would only ever run built in low watt items.
12ga romex is 40% costlier than 14ga in most regions. That’s a lot of money for no reason.
All the talk and effort in air sealing the garage from the main structure but no true (unless Zip sheathing qualifies) fire rated separation. Texas, I guess....
Yeah --- a connected garage and a quick flame run to the kids upstairs bedroom walls ... what that heck is that about?
22:00 Since code allows 16AWG for 10AMP breakers. Wouldn't be best to use that size for the smoke alarms? I honestly don't know if there are 16/3 cables yet.
That code provision wasn’t adopted as apart of 2023. It was in the drafts, but didn’t make the final. One day…
On another note, it’s INSANE that they ran 12/2 to everything including lighting. Massively overkill and a PITA to deal with for smaller lights.
I don’t like the span stuff, way to many what ifs compared to traditional electrical 🤔
getting ready for my sweet 7 college picks
we cramped up in hair
Can you picture the hacking and malware potential here?
All the craftsmanship…blue boxes 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️ Spare conduit for future to attic 👍
With these cloud-connected electrical panels, what would happen if Span went out of business? Presumably, the panel still works, but what about the management app?
This is an obvious problem that I am sure Span has thought about. Else no one would buy this.
Or they push a firmware update that bricks the panel 😅
More than cloud connected, cloud managed. Requires connection to servers you don't own or control for the features to function.
This. Any cloud connected device needs to also have local management capability. Otherwise, the company later on can just start charging subscription fees or just shut down the service entirely.
You can keep it.
9 times out of 10, when the cloud service goes down, you're screwed.
Or the company gets bought out a few years from now and the new owners start charging a monthly fee or start selling your power use data.
Also, I'd be concerned about the long term reliability of the box. Maybe they did due diligence and the code is written to high reliability code standards but that's expensive and one of the first places they will cut costs. Is not going to be fun for the owners or warranty guarantor if the computer locks up over a weekend while everyone is away and a few grand of food goes bad.
The load balancing is cool but that's a lot of potential downsides, not even including cost.
is this a 100A or 200A service?
once u get to the maintance bldg, turn to the right some well start clearing it out until we get to the woodline
Yall need to engineer houses to be electrical contractor proof as someone who works for i can say stuff never gets done right the first time either sell with the gdp loss included or run piping in the plans all im saying nowadays
What are the QR codes hanging everywhere?
I think they're usually there so when each trade comes in, they can just scan it and know exactly what needs to be done in that area. Like what item/fixture goes there and type/brand, what service goes there, and/or what finishes go there. It can sometimes also bring up the blueprints so it shows measurements and locations of everything.
my ranger should be pulling in... wait for it.......
Great electrical conversation…
Next.
that explains the god we need you now song... hes a fckn genius
So the electronics in your "closet" with hot dehumidified return air, the LG unit cooling the air when it runs will rarely see stable air temperature which is ideal for electronics. I think you are trying to do too many thermal management steps in this closet. I invite talk on this point.
we have to many men. in da club. fitty what u doin in my club, shit brosky we about to get it poppin
Hope someday to see a true discussion of the hazards of radio frequency and unshielded electrical wires. Cellular damage and mental health issues due to chronic EMF exposure is serious. Having a high-tech house is useless when your family is battling cancer, voltage-gated calcium disorder, and/or capillary hypo-perfusion. Give me a high-performance, low-tech home any day that allows proper sleep in an EMF-reduced indoor environment.
Dimmers create dirty electricity which is related to health problems. No dimmers in my home.
One reason not to have EV's. Are you going to put in some kind of fire suppression system in the garage also?
You know that ICE vehicles catch on fire about 3 times more often ev's, right?
@@danheidel Stored energy inside the primary structure is beginning to be discussed in code review boards.....
Even if you made the entire ceiling area of the garage a water tank it wouldn't hold enough water. It's a real issue that people are ignoring, yes it's rare and ICE cars catch fire more often but they are easier to put out. Please charge your vehicles outside.
@@paulstone3032 In Denver the Fire Dept uses a blanket once they have the flames tamed down and wrap the vehicle on EV fires. A suppression unit would slow the fire down. You can put out an ICE fire much quicker.
@@danheidel
I wouldn't park vehicles in an attached garage regardless of type. It's better to have a lean-to though EV's wont like being out in the cold.
This sucker is 3k no thanks
false start left tackle #69 ,5 yd. penalty replay the down.... lining up in the neutral zone
looks like were lined up in a wildcat double tight end, the jeft tackles gonna pull to the left, the center is gonna snap, ill jump in the air like a dummy. half back u cradle the ball like u want a baby in your tummy just keep following me ill walk u all the way to the safe
do u want long or short haired this time...
wont take me long to decifer whos under the skin
thats why when u seen a chick wlkn around with a dude, shes letting you know he screwed u out of alot of money.lock him up then. ok we are...
California boy is annoying
$3k lol Biggest waste of money ever there is no need for that fucking thing whatsoever
No kidding. My car cost 3k and the battery doesn't cost 20k to replace every 10 years.