The hand book is called TEK17 and the research for the standards are a collaboration between the industry and a program called Byggforsk (building research) by SINTEF one of Europes largest independent practical research organisations. The best practices in TEK17 is THE LAW when you are building new constructions i Norway.
Norwegian plumber here👋 In norway we do actually have a national buildings manual, it gets update from time to time, and explains in detail how everything must be built or minimum. Now a days, we follow the TEK17, before that it was TEK10, the numbers refer to the year it was written/updated😊
Here is a link to an english version of TEK17 www.dibk.no/globalassets/byggeregler/regulation-on-technical-requirements-for-construction-works--technical-regulations.pdf
I heard that and immediately thought "well, obviously... that and formal apprenticeships make sure people are properly educated". Such nouveau methods we've been doing since at least medieval times.
The exterior gypsum is threaten so it can handle more moisture than the interior one. The rainscreen is crucial for this to work, but if works in Bergen it will work anywhere. It's not that hard to get to passivehouse level of airtightness with just the exterior gypsum if its taped correctly. The rockwool on the steel column is probably fire protection. This building probably have a higher firerating than normal since its multiple units over many floors. The heatcable in the bathroom floor isn't just for comfort it's also to dry the floor. In the summertime the liquid system is probably shut off, thats why it's electric in the bathroom.
As someone who grew in Europe and now resides in US (30+ yrs) I can assure that people in Europe would not build a barn using US methods, let alone a house.
I did do just that with a team 15 people, we traveled for 3 months through the US in 2019. We all had the same experience " Wtf is this" We might have been unlucky, but we went everywhere from skyscrapers in new york, to a simple garage build in the suburbs and we followed a big conctrator all the way. Now im not saying everything is bad, there where many cool tools and material features that i would like to implement in Norway, but the material felt cheap, so it would need to be upgraded to be used
Glass wool from the company Glava is the most used insulation material you will find everywhere(We just call that insulation "Glava"). Rockwool is sometimes used as alternative. I have never seen the american style insulation like spray foam, and thank god for that. That just look messy. I also find it questionable to put stuff in a house when you need hazmat to apply it. Not to mention having to handle that foam or dust when renovating or destroying a building. Glava has its own issues for sure, but I find that much more acceptable than the american alternative. The insulation we get from "Glava" is very good when it is applied with enough thickness and done properly.
Im from Norway, and we use a standard all over in all new houses - so they all are similar. It’s also a building-control system so it’s done right. If you borrow money then the bank also is going to have a management role. And yes Siga rules!
Financial investors (banks) back the mega home builders and banks make many (all?) mortgage loans in the US. They don't care about the construction quality or condition of the property being sold. A lot of dirty deeds going on.
In the Nordics we do have national build standard manuals, and they are quite alike in between us. Also the product vendors look very familiar even though I am not in Norway.
In Finland, and I guess in Norway too, there is often separate heat exchanger and piping circuit for just bathrooms which can provide heat during summer too.
Seattle doesn't really get that much rain. It is a rainy area, and it does rain often. And, it does have a rainy season where it does rain a lot during that time. But, when it comes to total-yearly rainfall, it's a lot less than most people expect.
When black ink is applied to wood, it can create an effect similar to staining, but with more intense pigmentation. The wood absorbs the ink, darkening the surface while still allowing the grain patterns to remain visible. It's often used for artistic pieces or wood-turning projects, especially if a sleek, modern look is desired.
The black wood is most likely "royalimpregnering", a common wood treatment in the Nordics to get low maintenance. The wood is first impregnated with copper salts, then vacuum boiled in oil (e.g. lint seed) along with the staining. Maintenance coatings of oils can be applied when needed, but are needed less frequently compared to paint.
Torch-on polymer modified bitumen felt roofing has been around in Europe for about 40 years and is basically laid as traditional pour and roll bitumen felt roofing used be be. The big advantage of the polymer modified variety is that the bitumen does not become brittle and crack, so can last for upwards of 15 years and often a lot longer, whereas the previous standard bitumen roofs only last 5 years. I am slightly surprised that bitumen felt is still used as a main roofing material in Norway because here in UK we have moved to PVC and EPDM because of their improved performance. I appreciate that the roofs are due to be finished with a Sedum that will protect the bitumen from the UV and solar gain/freezing cycles but the cappings are exposed.
@@clivewilliams3661 I am a commercial roofing contractor in Washington state my company has been around for over 100 years. I’m a fifth generation owner not of the same family. I wanted to see somebody in another country torching on rolls. The manufacturers we use were originally from France. I’m sure they’re the same.
@@jongwinner7205 Torch-on felt is still available in UK but whereas it was the go-to product in 1980's it has been superseded by other, higher performing materials and torch-on tends to be used on small projects. Where bitumen roofs have failed it is now far cheaper to overlay the original roof with a hi-perf alternative that can give a 25years insurance backed guarantee rather than re-roof with bitumen felt . The original big player supplying roofing felt was Tarmac, who used to produce a seminal extensive handbook on the detailing and installation but the scene has changed in favour of more 'modern' materials
At 6:40 - I'm surprised that Steve seems to find supplemental electric bathroom heat to be a sort of novelty. Growing up myself decades ago in a warm southern climate, every house with middle-class or better pretensions always had some form of supplemental switched electrical heat in each bathroom for just the reasons Steve intuits here. It might be hot outside, but if the whole house is air conditioned then you might be uncomfortably cold getting out of the bath. Or it might be a rare cold winter's night, you're gutting it out without central heating as the whole house cools to 68, 67 degrees, and you can wear long sleeves everywhere else except when you are stepping out of the bath dripping wet and unclothed. When I built some new bathrooms in the mid-Atlantic I made sure they all had supplemental heat - either an exhaust fan assembly that also had a recirculating 1000w fan heater mode (from Broan) that I put on a twist-timer, or an electric heating mat under the tiles run off a special thermostat that probed the floor.
What's different?, how about they don't build houses out of poor quality timber, house wrap and chicken wire, then forget the insulation in the loft while deleting the odd truss fastening for that elusive something different....
lol, this is so true. To be fair, Matt and Steve aren't exposed to any of that crap these days. They're builders seem to be super detailed by US standards.
It is quite pleasant to have the floor feel warm enough that you do not need thick carpets on floors. Also that avoids the need to have separate radiators or ducted heated air. Of course our weather is such that we rarely would need any cooling systems. (30 cm/1 feet thick wall/floor/ceiling insulation minimizes heat flow - be it from inside to out, or from outside to in. Doubling that insulation thickness is not unheard of..)
It became common when newer codes for energy efficiency came about (early 2000 i believe, but i dont remember) One code required alternative heating source not reliant on active grid power or fossile fuel. Basically that ment either wood stove, stored electricity or circulating heated water. (probably forgetting some alternatives). Wood stoves works great in single houses. Alternatively air-to-water heat pumps are popular. For apartment complexes water-to-water heat pumps gets used a lot.
Underfloor (radiant) heating is a very efficient way to heat a space. The circulating water is set at a temperature of around 45degC (113degF). Heat rises from the floor and cools marginally by the time it gets to the ceiling so that there is no stratification of the heat. If the temperature at floor level is say 24degC (75degF) then that is likely to be the temperature at all levels. Generally we feel the temperature on our bodies at the extremities i.e. our feet so that more often the room temperature can be reduced and we can still feel warm if our tootsies are. With a radiator system, much of the heat is generated by convection so hot air from the radiator rises, moves across the ceiling to the cold spots like windows, cools and then flows across the floor back to the radiator thus the temperature at floor level is probably 1-2degC colder than the level set by the room stat because it senses the upper air temperature. We then set the room stat to gain our warm feet at say 24degC but are generating a room temp of 26degC to compensate. The same applies to warm air systems but without the modicum of the radiant heat that also provides a warming feel to the upper body that radiators give. This means that underfloor heating is the most efficient followed by radiators and then warm blown air. The underfloor heating system shown will be overlaid with a sand/cement screed that then gives thermal mass to the system as well as even distribution.
Interesting, the very deep annular space for the rain screen/plane does have a gigantic increase in drying potential due to air flow / low flow resistance (I have significant experience w/ CFD, computational Fluid Dynamics, and in situ validation of such computations). Something to consider for environments with high potential of rainfall/water intrusion.
It does make sense that all of it would be similar. Why reinvent the wheel when you have something that works and you’re trying to protect your people from extreme cold.
I am not ever going to buy into letting sheetrock get wet this is never going to have a good long term outcome anywhere it rains a lot even it was to dry in 1 minute. Visqueen is a good product it just becomes fragile with age and outgases will always be present and I would use visqueen on exterior surfaces not inside the wall added benifit drywall would be protected and not get wet. Fixed triple glazed windows I would have expected in Europe to see VIG windows especially at Norway's latitudes. Troch down rubber membrane roofs are very sound however becomming outdated in US newer adhesive based membranes are now prevelant in the south and hot moping is rarely used. It's almost like stepping back 10-15 years in build science. Ray
Well, the sheetrock itself shouldn't get wet since the seams are taped and it is faced with tyvek, not paper like interior drywall. It is also for fire protection so a fire in the wood facade can not burn in. So there might be better products, but not a product that is fire resistant, water resistant and breathable in one.
The drywall is impregnated with a silicone resin so it's water resistant and can handle the weather during the building period. The reason to use a simple and cheap bitumen roof membrane is that it will be covered with a green roof later. Argon filled double and triple glazed windows have been the standard since the early 70' and windows in Norway has typically a US u-factor of 0.15
@@espenovnerud4793 Windows used in this build are fine and as good as gas filled glazed windows get it's just at Norway's latitudes I expected Vacuum Insulated Glass windows in Europe which can get into the Mid R20's 4-5X more efficient than the best triple glazed high end windows, costs are admittably high but with increasing energy costs paybacks get better with time and now I can have a glass floor to ceiling exterior wall that the R value is about equal to a insulated framed w/o windows wall. It's amazing to walk up to a window and not feel any chilling or have any condensation.
@@AsbjoernYou are totaly correct in that Norway pretty much leads the world in sourcing their electric power from hydo at over 98% of Norway's electric production is from hydro. cost savings will still be present with longer payback cycles and if you have ever been next to a VIG window some comfort factors get ones attention. No chill or need to locate heat vents next to windows and no condensation on any surfaces.
@@duggydo Oh I did. the only products that are mentioned are Siga. In Europe you would get punished for that ad. It is a long ad, as was the video of him going into a "European hardware store". This is a joke.
What about the isolation between the wood and concrete?!!! Tape just outside didn’t do anything!!!! Still the wood taking humidity from the concrete. Im leaving in Norway almost 20 years, I know that most of this buildings have a lot of issues after some years. Same with quality of the details in this houses, looking good from 5m, but if you look closely it’s just garbage.
Norway has a population of about 5,600,000 people, and the climate is pretty similar in areas that are populated. Its natural that there would be less variety than in North America.
@@Thedrek No, its not. You have a very local view. Any hot dry deserts? Any hot humid areas? Any regions that are particularly prone to tornadoes or hurricane? Any high risk seismic zones.
@@richdobbs6595 Entire west coast of Norway is prone to hurricanes. You have some municipalities with added local regulations like if you have a stone/concrete roof every tile has to be nailed and not every 3rd like normal.
@@gromitNOR83 Great, you hit one issue that I wasn't aware of. You've got variation in rainfall and wind that covers the same as the USA. But you don't have variation of humidity and temperature that spans the USA. And you don't have the magnitude in population that makes it reasonable to customize the solutions to particular regions. You are convincing me that you are very parochial. Your problem isn't what you know, it is it admitting what you haven't thought of! It is like me growing up Minnesota, and saying why don't those Texans build full basements, because they work so well here! You are a child!
I'm gonna push back on this 'national build standard' that keeps getting talked about. We have 50 states for a reason. There is far too much 'nation wide' mandate stuff as it is and tearing this country apart. The more the states have a say in things the better. If a state decides to have a build standard and someone wants that. Move there and enjoy it. Please stop with talk of eliminating competition between the states.
We don't actually have a national standard in Norway, goverment decided and such, but we have this org called SINTEF who publishes a lot of recommended ways of doing things. You can totally do something different, but then you should have the expertise and know-how.
And in building, there's a large variety in terms of climate, different challenges from the weather (wind, rain, etc.), and some place face earthquakes, other don't. It only makes sense to have regional building codes.
The hand book is called TEK17 and the research for the standards are a collaboration between the industry and a program called Byggforsk (building research) by SINTEF one of Europes largest independent practical research organisations. The best practices in TEK17 is THE LAW when you are building new constructions i Norway.
Yeah, right.
TEK17 is also a big reason why living costs are so High in norway
@@tomivar9469 this is true.
9:45 "Its almost like there's a handbook on how things need to be built, and everyone's following it". At first, I thought he was being sarcastic lol.
Well, being from Texas, proper construction is purely optional.
Norwegian plumber here👋 In norway we do actually have a national buildings manual, it gets update from time to time, and explains in detail how everything must be built or minimum. Now a days, we follow the TEK17, before that it was TEK10, the numbers refer to the year it was written/updated😊
Here is a link to an english version of TEK17
www.dibk.no/globalassets/byggeregler/regulation-on-technical-requirements-for-construction-works--technical-regulations.pdf
I heard that and immediately thought "well, obviously... that and formal apprenticeships make sure people are properly educated". Such nouveau methods we've been doing since at least medieval times.
hmm ... "handbook" 🤔it sounds like some conspiracy theories ; )~ thihi
The exterior gypsum is threaten so it can handle more moisture than the interior one. The rainscreen is crucial for this to work, but if works in Bergen it will work anywhere. It's not that hard to get to passivehouse level of airtightness with just the exterior gypsum if its taped correctly. The rockwool on the steel column is probably fire protection. This building probably have a higher firerating than normal since its multiple units over many floors. The heatcable in the bathroom floor isn't just for comfort it's also to dry the floor. In the summertime the liquid system is probably shut off, thats why it's electric in the bathroom.
It would be interesting to see somebody from Norway come over here to America and check our building methods 😁
As someone who grew in Europe and now resides in US (30+ yrs) I can assure that people in Europe would not build a barn using US methods, let alone a house.
I think it really depends on the area
Yeah do a multi-story condo building vs this multi-story condo.
Everyone compares the worst US to the best European.
I did do just that with a team 15 people, we traveled for 3 months through the US in 2019. We all had the same experience " Wtf is this" We might have been unlucky, but we went everywhere from skyscrapers in new york, to a simple garage build in the suburbs and we followed a big conctrator all the way.
Now im not saying everything is bad, there where many cool tools and material features that i would like to implement in Norway, but the material felt cheap, so it would need to be upgraded to be used
@@Knasern is it cause its mostly wood construction? Or is it some of the other stuff?
Funny to see my favourite building team visit Europe,
Glass wool from the company Glava is the most used insulation material you will find everywhere(We just call that insulation "Glava"). Rockwool is sometimes used as alternative. I have never seen the american style insulation like spray foam, and thank god for that. That just look messy. I also find it questionable to put stuff in a house when you need hazmat to apply it. Not to mention having to handle that foam or dust when renovating or destroying a building.
Glava has its own issues for sure, but I find that much more acceptable than the american alternative.
The insulation we get from "Glava" is very good when it is applied with enough thickness and done properly.
This is a how a country should be run.
No, no, to an American it's communism :D
Im from Norway, and we use a standard all over in all new houses - so they all are similar. It’s also a building-control system so it’s done right. If you borrow money then the bank also is going to have a management role. And yes Siga rules!
Financial investors (banks) back the mega home builders and banks make many (all?) mortgage loans in the US. They don't care about the construction quality or condition of the property being sold. A lot of dirty deeds going on.
In the Nordics we do have national build standard manuals, and they are quite alike in between us.
Also the product vendors look very familiar even though I am not in Norway.
There is electric heating in the bathroom beacause there is no heat in the liquid system in the summer :).
In Finland, and I guess in Norway too, there is often separate heat exchanger and piping circuit for just bathrooms which can provide heat during summer too.
Seattle doesn't really get that much rain. It is a rainy area, and it does rain often. And, it does have a rainy season where it does rain a lot during that time. But, when it comes to total-yearly rainfall, it's a lot less than most people expect.
When black ink is applied to wood, it can create an effect similar to staining, but with more intense pigmentation. The wood absorbs the ink, darkening the surface while still allowing the grain patterns to remain visible. It's often used for artistic pieces or wood-turning projects, especially if a sleek, modern look is desired.
@ALLworldCONSTRUCTIONLLC, I thought that perhaps that wood had been charred black (Japanese or Korean technique). Apparently that keeps insects away.
The black wood is most likely "royalimpregnering", a common wood treatment in the Nordics to get low maintenance. The wood is first impregnated with copper salts, then vacuum boiled in oil (e.g. lint seed) along with the staining. Maintenance coatings of oils can be applied when needed, but are needed less frequently compared to paint.
I enjoyed watching this, thank you!
Isn’t it good Norwegian wood?
Your five upvotes (at the moment) make me think only 5 people remember that song...
Sure would be nice to see how the modified bitumen roof membrane was installed and how the roof system was insulated as well as installed.
Torch-on polymer modified bitumen felt roofing has been around in Europe for about 40 years and is basically laid as traditional pour and roll bitumen felt roofing used be be. The big advantage of the polymer modified variety is that the bitumen does not become brittle and crack, so can last for upwards of 15 years and often a lot longer, whereas the previous standard bitumen roofs only last 5 years. I am slightly surprised that bitumen felt is still used as a main roofing material in Norway because here in UK we have moved to PVC and EPDM because of their improved performance. I appreciate that the roofs are due to be finished with a Sedum that will protect the bitumen from the UV and solar gain/freezing cycles but the cappings are exposed.
@@clivewilliams3661 I am a commercial roofing contractor in Washington state my company has been around for over 100 years. I’m a fifth generation owner not of the same family. I wanted to see somebody in another country torching on rolls. The manufacturers we use were originally from France. I’m sure they’re the same.
@@jongwinner7205 Torch-on felt is still available in UK but whereas it was the go-to product in 1980's it has been superseded by other, higher performing materials and torch-on tends to be used on small projects. Where bitumen roofs have failed it is now far cheaper to overlay the original roof with a hi-perf alternative that can give a 25years insurance backed guarantee rather than re-roof with bitumen felt .
The original big player supplying roofing felt was Tarmac, who used to produce a seminal extensive handbook on the detailing and installation but the scene has changed in favour of more 'modern' materials
At 6:40 - I'm surprised that Steve seems to find supplemental electric bathroom heat to be a sort of novelty. Growing up myself decades ago in a warm southern climate, every house with middle-class or better pretensions always had some form of supplemental switched electrical heat in each bathroom for just the reasons Steve intuits here. It might be hot outside, but if the whole house is air conditioned then you might be uncomfortably cold getting out of the bath. Or it might be a rare cold winter's night, you're gutting it out without central heating as the whole house cools to 68, 67 degrees, and you can wear long sleeves everywhere else except when you are stepping out of the bath dripping wet and unclothed.
When I built some new bathrooms in the mid-Atlantic I made sure they all had supplemental heat - either an exhaust fan assembly that also had a recirculating 1000w fan heater mode (from Broan) that I put on a twist-timer, or an electric heating mat under the tiles run off a special thermostat that probed the floor.
What's different?, how about they don't build houses out of poor quality timber, house wrap and chicken wire, then forget the insulation in the loft while deleting the odd truss fastening for that elusive something different....
lol, this is so true. To be fair, Matt and Steve aren't exposed to any of that crap these days. They're builders seem to be super detailed by US standards.
@@LogansRun314that’s true of most builders that aren’t massive corporations or that do anything but spec homes
We have a standard that says how to build houses so that would be why as you say we build all houses very similar.
The city you are in, Bergen, is the rainiest city in Norway
Question re: the radiant heat. If the dwelling is so tight is radiant overkill? Or do people just like it because it feels overall more comfortable?
It is quite pleasant to have the floor feel warm enough that you do not need thick carpets on floors.
Also that avoids the need to have separate radiators or ducted heated air.
Of course our weather is such that we rarely would need any cooling systems.
(30 cm/1 feet thick wall/floor/ceiling insulation minimizes heat flow - be it from inside to out, or from outside to in.
Doubling that insulation thickness is not unheard of..)
It became common when newer codes for energy efficiency came about (early 2000 i believe, but i dont remember)
One code required alternative heating source not reliant on active grid power or fossile fuel. Basically that ment either wood stove, stored electricity or circulating heated water. (probably forgetting some alternatives).
Wood stoves works great in single houses. Alternatively air-to-water heat pumps are popular.
For apartment complexes water-to-water heat pumps gets used a lot.
@@mattiaarnio9249 makes sense! Where I live we would still need AC, it is pretty hot with intense sun in my location.
Underfloor (radiant) heating is a very efficient way to heat a space. The circulating water is set at a temperature of around 45degC (113degF). Heat rises from the floor and cools marginally by the time it gets to the ceiling so that there is no stratification of the heat. If the temperature at floor level is say 24degC (75degF) then that is likely to be the temperature at all levels. Generally we feel the temperature on our bodies at the extremities i.e. our feet so that more often the room temperature can be reduced and we can still feel warm if our tootsies are. With a radiator system, much of the heat is generated by convection so hot air from the radiator rises, moves across the ceiling to the cold spots like windows, cools and then flows across the floor back to the radiator thus the temperature at floor level is probably 1-2degC colder than the level set by the room stat because it senses the upper air temperature. We then set the room stat to gain our warm feet at say 24degC but are generating a room temp of 26degC to compensate. The same applies to warm air systems but without the modicum of the radiant heat that also provides a warming feel to the upper body that radiators give. This means that underfloor heating is the most efficient followed by radiators and then warm blown air.
The underfloor heating system shown will be overlaid with a sand/cement screed that then gives thermal mass to the system as well as even distribution.
Standing next to a concrete wall: "Lots of wood framing..."
Interesting, the very deep annular space for the rain screen/plane does have a gigantic increase in drying potential due to air flow / low flow resistance (I have significant experience w/ CFD, computational Fluid Dynamics, and in situ validation of such computations). Something to consider for environments with high potential of rainfall/water intrusion.
It depends on the height of the building. There is hardly any air movement on low buildings.
fascinating
So, is a 4" rain screen better than the huber 3/16 rain screen?
I feel like this was a sarcastic and/or excellent question😁
It does make sense that all of it would be similar. Why reinvent the wheel when you have something that works and you’re trying to protect your people from extreme cold.
The rainscreen is for the cladding to dry, not the gypsum.
Can anyone help me out find the stock music track used at the end of Matt's videos? Thanks a bunch.
Imagine simping over building quality of your house. This should just be standard practise
Wow, the Risinger brand is global now. Never thought you'd end up here when you started this whole thing huh?
come to Slovenia to see the whole of Europe how it's done
we had that prema sealent 25 years ago and are wsay ahead of that in uk now
I am not ever going to buy into letting sheetrock get wet this is never going to have a good long term outcome anywhere it rains a lot even it was to dry in 1 minute. Visqueen is a good product it just becomes fragile with age and outgases will always be present and I would use visqueen on exterior surfaces not inside the wall added benifit drywall would be protected and not get wet. Fixed triple glazed windows I would have expected in Europe to see VIG windows especially at Norway's latitudes. Troch down rubber membrane roofs are very sound however becomming outdated in US newer adhesive based membranes are now prevelant in the south and hot moping is rarely used. It's almost like stepping back 10-15 years in build science. Ray
Well, the sheetrock itself shouldn't get wet since the seams are taped and it is faced with tyvek, not paper like interior drywall.
It is also for fire protection so a fire in the wood facade can not burn in. So there might be better products, but not a product that is fire resistant, water resistant and breathable in one.
The drywall is impregnated with a silicone resin so it's water resistant and can handle the weather during the building period. The reason to use a simple and cheap bitumen roof membrane is that it will be covered with a green roof later. Argon filled double and triple glazed windows have been the standard since the early 70' and windows in Norway has typically a US u-factor of 0.15
@@espenovnerud4793 Windows used in this build are fine and as good as gas filled glazed windows get it's just at Norway's latitudes I expected Vacuum Insulated Glass windows in Europe which can get into the Mid R20's 4-5X more efficient than the best triple glazed high end windows, costs are admittably high but with increasing energy costs paybacks get better with time and now I can have a glass floor to ceiling exterior wall that the R value is about equal to a insulated framed w/o windows wall. It's amazing to walk up to a window and not feel any chilling or have any condensation.
@@raystormont Remember that norway gets cheap electric power due to a lot of hydro power.
@@AsbjoernYou are totaly correct in that Norway pretty much leads the world in sourcing their electric power from hydo at over 98% of Norway's electric production is from hydro. cost savings will still be present with longer payback cycles and if you have ever been next to a VIG window some comfort factors get ones attention. No chill or need to locate heat vents next to windows and no condensation on any surfaces.
OK, just another Siga ad. So kinda useless
Yep
You obviously didn't watch the video.
@@duggydo Oh I did. the only products that are mentioned are Siga. In Europe you would get punished for that ad. It is a long ad, as was the video of him going into a "European hardware store". This is a joke.
@@Oimbubi Why would you get punished?
@@duggydo It is a hidden ad.
What about the isolation between the wood and concrete?!!! Tape just outside didn’t do anything!!!! Still the wood taking humidity from the concrete. Im leaving in Norway almost 20 years, I know that most of this buildings have a lot of issues after some years. Same with quality of the details in this houses, looking good from 5m, but if you look closely it’s just garbage.
Kva meinar dykk spesifikt?.
Norway has a population of about 5,600,000 people, and the climate is pretty similar in areas that are populated. Its natural that there would be less variety than in North America.
The climate is extremely varied. However a strict code of how a building is supposed to be put together fits, no matter the climate.
@@Thedrek No, its not. You have a very local view. Any hot dry deserts? Any hot humid areas? Any regions that are particularly prone to tornadoes or hurricane? Any high risk seismic zones.
@@richdobbs6595 Entire west coast of Norway is prone to hurricanes. You have some municipalities with added local regulations like if you have a stone/concrete roof every tile has to be nailed and not every 3rd like normal.
@@gromitNOR83 Great, you hit one issue that I wasn't aware of. You've got variation in rainfall and wind that covers the same as the USA. But you don't have variation of humidity and temperature that spans the USA. And you don't have the magnitude in population that makes it reasonable to customize the solutions to particular regions. You are convincing me that you are very parochial. Your problem isn't what you know, it is it admitting what you haven't thought of! It is like me growing up Minnesota, and saying why don't those Texans build full basements, because they work so well here! You are a child!
I'm gonna push back on this 'national build standard' that keeps getting talked about. We have 50 states for a reason. There is far too much 'nation wide' mandate stuff as it is and tearing this country apart. The more the states have a say in things the better. If a state decides to have a build standard and someone wants that. Move there and enjoy it. Please stop with talk of eliminating competition between the states.
Competition in the US is toward cheap building, in Europe it is toward quality building...
We don't actually have a national standard in Norway, goverment decided and such, but we have this org called SINTEF who publishes a lot of recommended ways of doing things. You can totally do something different, but then you should have the expertise and know-how.
You make it sound so easy to just get up and move. Get real guy
And in building, there's a large variety in terms of climate, different challenges from the weather (wind, rain, etc.), and some place face earthquakes, other don't. It only makes sense to have regional building codes.
@@j.r.arnolli9734 I framed here in the US and our crew was always concerned about quality.