I can think of a few more benefits. When that canister fails it pushes the tiny charcoal pieces throughout the fuel lines clogging up several other EVAP parts of the useless system. That means having to drop the tank and clear the lines all the way to the engine. Older cars never had this useless system designed to keep mechanics and dealers in business. I think I would route the filter you installed higher up by the filler neck or it will continuously clog.
@@SonyaSlidez I ghetto rigged a generic PCV valve because they act as a check valve. If I had to guess it’s bigger than a normal vacuum line like 1/2” or so?
Great video. I removed mine in my 95 mustang gt. The hoses were completely rotted. And removing it and all the nonsense removed around 8 lbs from the front end.
Cool deal. I was worried what lines I needed to do things with on my car but the canister has been broken since I got it years ago and luckily I'm in NC so I don't have ton pass smog on 20+ year cars. I know its not gonna do anything really but I just don't want any extra things on my car that aren't being useful or I put them there.
Man thanks for your instructions, I have a '97 Mark 8 and mine is on the bottom of the spare tire well. I am needing to eliminate mine ASAP because one side of the steel brackets holding it on are rusted off and it is hanging from the other 2. I really like your instructions for venting the old supply hose, because I heard that if you don't, that the fumes in the tank won't allow you to gas up the car. Like I said, trashing mine is a must b\c you can't buy the steel tray bracket mine is in & it is rusted out & ready to fall off. I have saw online that the prob of the Evap holder rusting out was a major issue on 90's Taurus' & Marks. I've had this car 20 yrs and that is the only rusty thing on mine though, the body is in great shape.
Great video! I'm not a mechanic or a car enthusiast or anything... just a saab owner needing to access the carbon canister and possibly replace it or any cracked tubes going to the throttle. My question is the equipment you are using to slightly elevate your car... is that a portable car jack or something? And looks like you are balancing it out with a metal triangle support toward the driver side? I don't know what you call that but are you using 2 triangle supports with the car jack... one on each side? Do you have a video on getting a solid mini lift on your car at home in your garage? Thanks for the great video!! It's helping a rookie like me.
Just a normal floor jack and jack stands! Once you get the car up on the floor jack you'll want a jack stand on each side to make sure the car is stable in the air. Most auto parts stores, or Harbor Freight sells both floor jacks and jack stands!
I know that I'm a little bit late to the party here, but is there any repercussion to removing the solenoid for the evap canister that's attached to the back of the intake manifold? I'm currently putting a VQ in a little old 280ZX, and I obviously don't have the canister anymore, so I'm curious if I can remove that and clean up things from the engine bay.
I haven’t tried unplugging it! It’s not doing anything with the way I have the vacuum Lines plugged but I’m not sure if unplugging it will do anything. I’ll try that next because I’d like to get rid of it as well lol!
danger of doing this is that you wont get your CELs for anything major that happens like knock count or something that you need to stop driving for. just my thoughts on it.
Your knock sensor? That is a completely different system. This would just throw a cel for evap sensor. No performance gain for having it. Just something else to break, and something else to get slapped by a blown tire.
Im doing an ls swap and was curious if i could just hide the evap hose thats in the engine bay from factory but keep the canister and it would keep smell down?
@tonycrispin would I still need the filter at rear or is that only if canister is removed? Also could I just cut the evap line or would I need to plug it?
I used a generic PCV valve. The size was slightly too small but I made it work. If I were to order a specific one way valve I’d probably get something around 3/4”
I always wondered if it was dangerous letting the fuel tank fumes straight out. Like if someone lights a smoke next to the car is there a danger of an explosion?
I don’t think so, you can’t smell fuel anymore than normal (on a car with no cats) maybe if the car was running and someone was under it with an open flame…but I try to avoid things like that. Lol!
Do you get any CEL?? My drift Z was hit in the rear so the lines to the canister snapped off. And after about a long drive or multiple short drives I will get a CEL for a large evap leak.
In theory it’s only there to prevent fuel from spilling out in the event of a rollover or something crazy. And whatever size your line is! I forget exactly what mine was 1/2” maybe? Lol
@@tonycrispin yea I get that but some of these are directional so I wondering if you put it this way ⬅️ towards fuel pump or ➡️ towards that little filter.
Make your life easier, remove the entire fuel regulator and bracket on the passanger side. The fuel regulator can just be bolted directly to the fuel rail just like the driver side. Opens up so much space.
@tonycrispin no problem man. I've had mine setup that way for 2 years. No issue. Wanted to eliminate as many failure points as possible. Its crazy how much useless garbage nissan put on these cars.
I can think of a few more benefits. When that canister fails it pushes the tiny charcoal pieces throughout the fuel lines clogging up several other EVAP parts of the useless system. That means having to drop the tank and clear the lines all the way to the engine. Older cars never had this useless system designed to keep mechanics and dealers in business.
I think I would route the filter you installed higher up by the filler neck or it will continuously clog.
I didn’t think of that, but that’s totally true! And also true about my filter placement 😂
Thanks for the video, was the first one that popped up and you did a great job explaining. Also..... that hair...👌🏼
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful, and thank you 😂🙏🏼
@@tonycrispin QQ: Do you remember the size used for the check valve?
@@SonyaSlidez I ghetto rigged a generic PCV valve because they act as a check valve. If I had to guess it’s bigger than a normal vacuum line like 1/2” or so?
Great video like always and I am learning more about cars because of you. Thanks for your feedback. Have a great Memorial Day Weekend.
Thank you! Happy Memorial Day weekend!
Great video. I removed mine in my 95 mustang gt. The hoses were completely rotted. And removing it and all the nonsense removed around 8 lbs from the front end.
Thank you! Really does help out, especially on older vehicles where everything’s rotted out and useless lol
Cool deal. I was worried what lines I needed to do things with on my car but the canister has been broken since I got it years ago and luckily I'm in NC so I don't have ton pass smog on 20+ year cars. I know its not gonna do anything really but I just don't want any extra things on my car that aren't being useful or I put them there.
Man that’s nice about no smog! I’m with you on if you don’t need it get rid of it! Lol
Man thanks for your instructions, I have a '97 Mark 8 and mine is on the bottom of the spare tire well. I am needing to eliminate mine ASAP because one side of the steel brackets holding it on are rusted off and it is hanging from the other 2. I really like your instructions for venting the old supply hose, because I heard that if you don't, that the fumes in the tank won't allow you to gas up the car. Like I said, trashing mine is a must b\c you can't buy the steel tray bracket mine is in & it is rusted out & ready to fall off. I have saw online that the prob of the Evap holder rusting out was a major issue on 90's Taurus' & Marks. I've had this car 20 yrs and that is the only rusty thing on mine though, the body is in great shape.
Glad it could be of help! Toss that thing in the trash and continue to enjoy your car 🙌🏼
Mine used to be off but got lights on dash eventually. Had to put it back on to make sure I pass emissions got to keep mine street legal.
Was it difficult to put back on to pass smog? I’m guessing you left all the lines in lol
Great video! I'm not a mechanic or a car enthusiast or anything... just a saab owner needing to access the carbon canister and possibly replace it or any cracked tubes going to the throttle. My question is the equipment you are using to slightly elevate your car... is that a portable car jack or something? And looks like you are balancing it out with a metal triangle support toward the driver side? I don't know what you call that but are you using 2 triangle supports with the car jack... one on each side? Do you have a video on getting a solid mini lift on your car at home in your garage? Thanks for the great video!! It's helping a rookie like me.
Just a normal floor jack and jack stands! Once you get the car up on the floor jack you'll want a jack stand on each side to make sure the car is stable in the air. Most auto parts stores, or Harbor Freight sells both floor jacks and jack stands!
@@tonycrispin Thanks so much!
Awesom video man. Keep em coming
Thank you!
I know that I'm a little bit late to the party here, but is there any repercussion to removing the solenoid for the evap canister that's attached to the back of the intake manifold? I'm currently putting a VQ in a little old 280ZX, and I obviously don't have the canister anymore, so I'm curious if I can remove that and clean up things from the engine bay.
I haven’t tried unplugging it! It’s not doing anything with the way I have the vacuum
Lines plugged but I’m not sure if unplugging it will do anything. I’ll try that next because I’d like to get rid of it as well lol!
@@tonycrispin thank you :) I tried for the first startup today. no luck. troubleshooting time haha
danger of doing this is that you wont get your CELs for anything major that happens like knock count or something that you need to stop driving for. just my thoughts on it.
Valid concern for sure! My car has already had a CEL on for many other reasons so that went out the window a while ago 😅
Your knock sensor? That is a completely different system. This would just throw a cel for evap sensor. No performance gain for having it. Just something else to break, and something else to get slapped by a blown tire.
How is the Z running? I just did this to my 370 and everything seems fine but the engine load gauge stays at 100%. Other than that drives like normal
No issues, or changes in the way the car runs and drives. I really haven’t even noticed a change in fumes either!
Which direction is the check valve oriented in, letting air in or letting vapor out? Nice video
More than anything it’s there to prevent fuel spill in the event of a rollover or some serious accident. But ideally it’s letting vapors out as well
🔥🔥🔥🔥.wat would happen if that little filter got wet ?
Technically the filter isn’t doing anything since it’s just a vent, meaning it’s not sucking air in. So it shouldn’t matter.
Im doing an ls swap and was curious if i could just hide the evap hose thats in the engine bay from factory but keep the canister and it would keep smell down?
You could for sure! I haven’t noticed any extra smell from deleting it all but I know a lot of people do complain of that
@tonycrispin would I still need the filter at rear or is that only if canister is removed? Also could I just cut the evap line or would I need to plug it?
What size was the 1 way check valve and where did you get it from?
I used a generic PCV valve. The size was slightly too small but I made it work. If I were to order a specific one way valve I’d probably get something around 3/4”
I always wondered if it was dangerous letting the fuel tank fumes straight out. Like if someone lights a smoke next to the car is there a danger of an explosion?
I don’t think so, you can’t smell fuel anymore than normal (on a car with no cats) maybe if the car was running and someone was under it with an open flame…but I try to avoid things like that. Lol!
It's not concentrated enough. They would have to hold all that to the actual opening.
Any 3xl for the big bois
Ahh sadly not, the company I had print them only had 2xl 😅
Do you get any CEL?? My drift Z was hit in the rear so the lines to the canister snapped off. And after about a long drive or multiple short drives I will get a CEL for a large evap leak.
I already had a CEL for 100 other things so not sure 😅
Pretty dumb question but the check valve what direction did you put it? And what size?
In theory it’s only there to prevent fuel from spilling out in the event of a rollover or something crazy. And whatever size your line is! I forget exactly what mine was 1/2” maybe? Lol
@@tonycrispin yea I get that but some of these are directional so I wondering if you put it this way ⬅️ towards fuel pump or ➡️ towards that little filter.
What does that do to the Check Engine Light/Code?
This will for sure cause a check engine light. Do not do this if you want to pass smog lol
@@tonycrispin ok. Thank you. There’s no way to bypass the solenoid valve to eliminate the code?
@@SavDog262 I’m sure there’s a way to trick the check engine light but I personally haven’t tried!
What size check valve fitting for the vent hose ?
It’s around an inch if I recall correctly.
Make your life easier, remove the entire fuel regulator and bracket on the passanger side. The fuel regulator can just be bolted directly to the fuel rail just like the driver side. Opens up so much space.
Oh, interesting, I didn’t think about that. I have to take a look! Thanks!
@tonycrispin no problem man. I've had mine setup that way for 2 years. No issue. Wanted to eliminate as many failure points as possible. Its crazy how much useless garbage nissan put on these cars.
@@keganritz4418 More likely forced to put on by the EPA.
you’ve got instagram or facebook? i’ve got some questions
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Of course, thanks for watching!