Welcome Back! We're getting closer as the wiring comes out of the car again for final grouping, cutting, braiding and terminating. Both injector looms (one for each bank) get completed and terminated with connectors. The harness is now ready for the final install! ------------------------------------------------------ Links to products used in this project: Haltech Elite ECU + Premium Wiring Kit : www.haltech.com/product/ht-151304-elite-2500/ www.haltech.com/product/ht-070300-dual-crimper-set/ www.haltech.com/product-category/plugs-pins-and-wiring-products/ EFI hardware: www.efihardware.com/ Syltech - www.ebay.com.au/usr/autosupplies_au?fbclid=IwAR3R8VfP6_66tLITPyGXy4y6SrwgwXUglHZLuCY-_DVyPoAc4v4DpBZ2J4M RS components: au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/7187561/ Connector-Tech ALS: www.connector-techals.com.au/ Tesa Tape: www.tesa.com/en-au/industry/tesa-51608.html Tempco Crimpers: temcoindustrial.com/temco-hydraulic-cable-lug-crimper-th0006-5-us-ton-12-awg-to-00-awg.html 3D Racing Solutions: 3dracingsolutions.com/collections/dash-clustersh Power probe: www.powerprobe.com/
Hi there, I have a video request for you guys. For someone that decides to do a loom from the ground up where he just bought the plugs there is no guidelines from Haltech in regards to recommendations with wire gauges and wire types, etc. Could you guys do a video showing us building an Haltech Wiring kit from the start and letting us know what type of wires you are using and why? (Side Note: I do regret not having bought the basic loom, but now its too late as I already have the plugs and pins lol)
Following this series - (if you are actively working on your loom like me) - is just amazing. Can't thank @haltech and Dave enough for this series!! Saving me and helping me tackle the hardest overall portion of my build. I have literally worried and tried to plan this for my build for 5 years, and now that it's time to actually tackle it, this series is there supporting me every step of the way. THANK you Dave!
Dave, grab your self some electrical solid PVC pipe, 16mm to say 50mm and thread your braid over the pipe and simply push your loom wires through the pipe to where you want the braid to be, restrain the braid and pull out the PVC pipe
Dave these are great videos I binged them all in a row lastnight. Keep em coming. Man this stuff has come a long way, i had a Haltech IG5 back in the day running on DOS software and an E6GM. good fun back in the 90s
Pro tip when terminating wire at a connector. Slide the wire seals on BEFORE you strip the wire. Slide it on and out of the way, strip the wire, then slide the seal back down into position.
Could you show how you ran the wires through the braid and branched it off into the separate injectors and a better look at how you crimped the branch wire for the injectors power wires?
Hi Dave, I enjoy watching your video Series but there is one thing you should consider and that is polarity with injectors. I know that a coil is not polarity sensitive but when I looked at my injectors they all have + and - marked on them. I am not into electronics but I think they have a zener-diode built in to stop the voltage spikes at around 55Volts and such Diodes are polarity sensitiv. Greetings from Germany Bernhard
Hello Haltech! Great video. I just want to get your opinion. From the wiring harness found all over the internet, the injectors, coil and igniter share power source straight from thick ignition wire. While the fuel pump and other 12v solenoid/sensors get power source from EFI relay. I just found out mine that they are soldered together. Will it cause any problems with the injectors and coil on how they would perform? Engine is a 20 valve 4AGE. Thank you in advance!❤
The problem with solder is that the Flux causes corrosion in the wire and after a few years the connection goes bad. Also solder is not flexible and if there is movement in the wiring the joint will break much faster than a crimp
I've never seen a crimp been able to flex either. When it does, the wire is usually working its way out. Yes you can over temp the wires for a solder joint, and using the wrong solder and a cheap ass soldering iron will help cause failures. Having worked on Industrial Machinery, a solder joint has proved way more effective than just a crimp. But this is job specific I spose. In the end, it's what is the best for what you are able to do, and in the time/dollar constraints you have to work with.
No not at all, I personally like to use both. It depends on what you prefer to use and the look you are going for!! If you tape up a section of your loom, make sure it is 100% done and correct though!
Hi just wondering how you picked which power to then splice off for the injectors please? And do you generally wire the platinum loom injector wires in firing order? Eg For a 4 cyl 1 = inj 1 3 = inj 2 2 = inj 3 4 = inj 4
in regards to what you said about people slamming soldering. im an electronics guy work on alot of arcades and pinballs and we prefer soldiering for that sort of application, but im currently building a r32 gtr with a rb30/26 in it. im watching these videos to help me with when i get to the wiring part of the car. so whats your opinion on crimping then throwing a little solder onto the join after they have been crimpe?n i ask due to my experience with crimps in regards to them not being great in the aplications ihave used them in when repairing or rebuilding a pinball or arcade machine? thanks in advamce for your response in regards to this question
Usually It just depends on the type of installation that i am doing - purely for this video's purpose, I incorporated it into the loom. But by not using a breakout connector for the injectors, It kept the cost down as well as it was not a requirement in this job. What are your preferred Methods? Sharing your experiences and practices here might help everyone out!! Normally If it is required/requested to have a Breakout I like to make a breakout loom & do it through a Deutsch DTM connector
@@davenonameforrester thanks for the reply Dave, I personally have used the DTM connector on the harness work I have done. Never really thought about the costs of them since the cars I have been working on are not mine. They reason we do it is for manifold and injector combo changes. However looking back I think I can only remember twice when we actually used that feature. Once was to add dual injectors per cylinder on a modified holley high ram, the other was just new injectors with different plugs.
can you use the same process of branching the power off of one power wire for ignition coils too or is that only for injectors, i'm wiring my sr20 with a haltech 750 atm :)
Another great one Dave and the guys. I do have a few questions tho.. 1. I've noticed you use the "horizontal" style strippers. Are you not a fan of the style that looks/works like a dinosaurs jaw? I can see where it would be difficult to stip in the middle of a wire with that style but just curious on your opinion 2. Just for reference, you said you use a large/medium/small sized expandable loom. What sizes would you recommend buying before starting this project? 3. When you crimped your wires for the plug, and proceded to heat shrink and slide them into the housing, I noticed you don't do any kind of service loops or anything of the sorts. What is your reasoning for this? Is it just "cleaner" or is that just taking your harness one step further, same concept as doing concentric twists to the harness?
Hi Mate, do you mean something similar to this www.schnap.com.au/tools/pliers/rapid-stripper.html Personally....I love my side on ones, as they are the right price and I am just SOOO used to them
This is just an entry level wiring video on how to wire up an engine loom. It is much quicker to get a job done, and was not required for this installation. Do you like to use Service loops? For the people that use them, and always put them in... Could you share why you like to do it that way? Have they been helpful in the past ? Is it worth the extra time and effort?
Thanks for the reply. Its not that I've used them before, I just kinda like the idea of them but was curious if they where actually practical or just some high end motorsports thing.
I would suggest NOT twisting the wire strands before crimping the legs over. If the wire strands are twisted, there is no way the crimp legs can grip the wire properly. The crimp will look a mess under magnification, and will not provide maximum grip or contact. Better still, use crimps where possible that have a barrel/sleeve style end.
Trying to unhook the crimpers from that wire was GOLD :)
Haha that fumble with the pliers, classic! Great videos
Like the different color tape for different places in the car idea 👍🏼
Only one vid come on dave give us some more love watching pros at work
Welcome Back! We're getting closer as the wiring comes out of the car again for final grouping, cutting, braiding and terminating. Both injector looms (one for each bank) get completed and terminated with connectors. The harness is now ready for the final install!
------------------------------------------------------
Links to products used in this project:
Haltech Elite ECU + Premium Wiring Kit :
www.haltech.com/product/ht-151304-elite-2500/
www.haltech.com/product/ht-070300-dual-crimper-set/
www.haltech.com/product-category/plugs-pins-and-wiring-products/
EFI hardware: www.efihardware.com/
Syltech - www.ebay.com.au/usr/autosupplies_au?fbclid=IwAR3R8VfP6_66tLITPyGXy4y6SrwgwXUglHZLuCY-_DVyPoAc4v4DpBZ2J4M
RS components: au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/7187561/
Connector-Tech ALS: www.connector-techals.com.au/
Tesa Tape: www.tesa.com/en-au/industry/tesa-51608.html
Tempco Crimpers: temcoindustrial.com/temco-hydraulic-cable-lug-crimper-th0006-5-us-ton-12-awg-to-00-awg.html
3D Racing Solutions: 3dracingsolutions.com/collections/dash-clustersh
Power probe: www.powerprobe.com/
Hi there,
I have a video request for you guys.
For someone that decides to do a loom from the ground up where he just bought the plugs there is no guidelines from Haltech in regards to recommendations with wire gauges and wire types, etc.
Could you guys do a video showing us building an Haltech Wiring kit from the start and letting us know what type of wires you are using and why?
(Side Note: I do regret not having bought the basic loom, but now its too late as I already have the plugs and pins lol)
Following this series - (if you are actively working on your loom like me) - is just amazing. Can't thank @haltech and Dave enough for this series!! Saving me and helping me tackle the hardest overall portion of my build. I have literally worried and tried to plan this for my build for 5 years, and now that it's time to actually tackle it, this series is there supporting me every step of the way. THANK you Dave!
Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your wiring!
Current pandemic or not, "GET OOOUT!!!" is common to hear :P
Dave, grab your self some electrical solid PVC pipe, 16mm to say 50mm and thread your braid over the pipe and simply push your loom wires through the pipe to where you want the braid to be, restrain the braid and pull out the PVC pipe
I love this series, and it came up just as I have to do a new loom for my engine project :D
Dave these are great videos I binged them all in a row lastnight. Keep em coming. Man this stuff has come a long way, i had a Haltech IG5 back in the day running on DOS software and an E6GM. good fun back in the 90s
Wow - that's going back a bit! Good times:)
Thanks Haltech, another great ep.
Glad you enjoyed it:)
Mate this content is badass... Iv learnt so much past 4days good work keep it up .
5.20 Thank you!!! So easy, so simple👍
Well Done Dave.
wish you made more videos like this , great for beginner
😂 Dave has bubble rap for cartilage too 👍
Pro tip when terminating wire at a connector. Slide the wire seals on BEFORE you strip the wire. Slide it on and out of the way, strip the wire, then slide the seal back down into position.
@ 3:04 what's the part number for the wire stripper and the big blue crimper that you use to splice those wires @ 3:11 please and thanks you
Love this mini series
Great series! Learned a lot so far... quick question, what type of crimping terminal did you use for the injector branching example?? Thanks
is it ok to put a Dutch connector for each bank of injectors and the same for COP to make servicing easier
Thanks for this.
Quick question, why crimping wires and not solder them?
Edit: ok you answered my question at 6:30 lol
Could you show how you ran the wires through the braid and branched it off into the separate injectors and a better look at how you crimped the branch wire for the injectors power wires?
Two thumbs down are from Anthony and Anthony's mum...
😂😉🤐😭
*Anthony left this chat*
How did you join the single power to 8 injector power wires? I saw the single crimp but did you twist and solder first?
Hi Dave, I enjoy watching your video Series but there is one thing you should consider and that is polarity with injectors. I know that a coil is not polarity sensitive but when I looked at my injectors they all have + and - marked on them.
I am not into electronics but I think they have a zener-diode built in to stop the voltage spikes at around 55Volts and such Diodes are polarity sensitiv.
Greetings from Germany
Bernhard
what type of crimp connector are you using to tap into the main 12V line?? just curious... nice video
when joining/branching all the injector wires , what gauge/size do you use for the main line and what size for the branch lines??
thanks
Would like to know also
When you put braid over the injector portions how did you make their appearance back in to the main loom look neat? Heat shrink? Tape?
Dave, Nexus R5 what are you doing for 12 volt + power for 4 x 1GN-1A COILS ON A 13B Rotary.
Hello Haltech! Great video. I just want to get your opinion. From the wiring harness found all over the internet, the injectors, coil and igniter share power source straight from thick ignition wire. While the fuel pump and other 12v solenoid/sensors get power source from EFI relay. I just found out mine that they are soldered together. Will it cause any problems with the injectors and coil on how they would perform? Engine is a 20 valve 4AGE. Thank you in advance!❤
Good stuff 👍🏼
The problem with solder is that the Flux causes corrosion in the wire and after a few years the connection goes bad. Also solder is not flexible and if there is movement in the wiring the joint will break much faster than a crimp
I've never seen a crimp been able to flex either. When it does, the wire is usually working its way out. Yes you can over temp the wires for a solder joint, and using the wrong solder and a cheap ass soldering iron will help cause failures. Having worked on Industrial Machinery, a solder joint has proved way more effective than just a crimp. But this is job specific I spose. In the end, it's what is the best for what you are able to do, and in the time/dollar constraints you have to work with.
Is there any advantages to using self amalgamating tape for the loom? versus the braided/shrink wrap/cable tie method?
No not at all, I personally like to use both.
It depends on what you prefer to use and the look you are going for!!
If you tape up a section of your loom, make sure it is 100% done and correct though!
0:25 On the right, I saw the Evo 9
That's Dave's Evo VIII.
@@haltech Get in the bin. You have offended every EVO 9 owner in the world.
Hi just wondering how you picked which power to then splice off for the injectors please?
And do you generally wire the platinum loom injector wires in firing order?
Eg
For a 4 cyl
1 = inj 1
3 = inj 2
2 = inj 3
4 = inj 4
Once you break it down it begins to make sense. You mean once you make a wiring diagram it will begin to make sense to someone else 🤣🤣
Is the cables sheath silicone or a v90 type?
in regards to what you said about people slamming soldering. im an electronics guy work on alot of arcades and pinballs and we prefer soldiering for that sort of application, but im currently building a r32 gtr with a rb30/26 in it. im watching these videos to help me with when i get to the wiring part of the car. so whats your opinion on crimping then throwing a little solder onto the join after they have been crimpe?n i ask due to my experience with crimps in regards to them not being great in the aplications ihave used them in when repairing or rebuilding a pinball or arcade machine? thanks in advamce for your response in regards to this question
Is the can bus wiring separate from the harness you're making?
wish you made a comeplete k20 and k24 harness
Do you need to crimp the little plugs?
Great video! What tool do use for stripping wires? Been wanting to get myself something similar for ages, thanks!
Check out the 1st episode to find out! :)
ruclips.net/video/IpNfRaM_P04/видео.html
The solder definitely belongs lol
Just wondering what braid you're using on your loom?
Is there any work done to straighten the wire strands out before being used, or is it the type of wire that helps reduce curling?
Mostly the grade of wire.
Generally speaking, better grades of wiring will have good flexibility and resist coil memory.
Why was it chosen to not make the injection harness separable?
Usually It just depends on the type of installation that i am doing - purely for this video's purpose, I incorporated it into the loom.
But by not using a breakout connector for the injectors, It kept the cost down as well as it was not a requirement in this job.
What are your preferred Methods? Sharing your experiences and practices here might help everyone out!!
Normally If it is required/requested to have a Breakout I like to make a breakout loom & do it through a Deutsch DTM connector
@@davenonameforrester thanks for the reply Dave, I personally have used the DTM connector on the harness work I have done. Never really thought about the costs of them since the cars I have been working on are not mine. They reason we do it is for manifold and injector combo changes. However looking back I think I can only remember twice when we actually used that feature. Once was to add dual injectors per cylinder on a modified holley high ram, the other was just new injectors with different plugs.
can you use the same process of branching the power off of one power wire for ignition coils too or is that only for injectors, i'm wiring my sr20 with a haltech 750 atm :)
Hey William, the same will apply for your Coils as well.
Another great one Dave and the guys. I do have a few questions tho..
1. I've noticed you use the "horizontal" style strippers. Are you not a fan of the style that looks/works like a dinosaurs jaw? I can see where it would be difficult to stip in the middle of a wire with that style but just curious on your opinion
2. Just for reference, you said you use a large/medium/small sized expandable loom. What sizes would you recommend buying before starting this project?
3. When you crimped your wires for the plug, and proceded to heat shrink and slide them into the housing, I noticed you don't do any kind of service loops or anything of the sorts. What is your reasoning for this? Is it just "cleaner" or is that just taking your harness one step further, same concept as doing concentric twists to the harness?
Hi Mate, do you mean something similar to this www.schnap.com.au/tools/pliers/rapid-stripper.html
Personally....I love my side on ones, as they are the right price and I am just SOOO used to them
Usually I use a 4mm, 6mm, 12mm and a 18mm size Expandable Braid/sleeve
This is just an entry level wiring video on how to wire up an engine loom.
It is much quicker to get a job done, and was not required for this installation.
Do you like to use Service loops?
For the people that use them, and always put them in... Could you share why you like to do it that way?
Have they been helpful in the past ?
Is it worth the extra time and effort?
Thanks for the reply. Its not that I've used them before, I just kinda like the idea of them but was curious if they where actually practical or just some high end motorsports thing.
7:12 What model crimpers are these?
They are available in this kit: www.haltech.com/product/ht-070300-dual-crimper-set/
BLOODY HELL ANTHONY!!
1.5x playback speed is your friend
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
This is entertaining to watch but I sure am glad I don't have to do it.
Hey guys the harness Dave is working on is it a 2.5m or 5m premium harness? Looks long. Maybe just camera angles. 👍🏼 cheers keep the vids coming.
It's the 2.5m version.
Haltech thanks guys 🤙🏼
I would suggest NOT twisting the wire strands before crimping the legs over. If the wire strands are twisted, there is no way the crimp legs can grip the wire properly. The crimp will look a mess under magnification, and will not provide maximum grip or contact. Better still, use crimps where possible that have a barrel/sleeve style end.
Anthony been listening to prodigy while doing his wiring looms 😂 "fire starta wiring fire starta"
Do you make ecm computers
As in engine management systems? Yeah we do: www.haltech.com/
Put the seals on first then strip wires and you won't poke your finger
Crikey did Dave use one of them crack pipe torches on his shrink stuff.
If it's used on a heat shrink that makes it a "heat shrink torch" now doesn't it?...
Haltech 🤣😂😅I thought that might get a response....sorry.
Got any sweet corona deals on the IC7 dashes?
Free Delivery on all Dashes and ECUs.
@@haltech I'll get a shopping list together
7.00 HAHAHAHAHA - Such great videos
I am of the belief that NO solder belongs in an automotive harness if it can be avoided. The connections should all be crimped.
you forgot to sleep last episode
What's up with the audio man? Can hardly hear what you're saying around the 4 min mark
Natural Fruit Juice is better.
Moist