@6:37 with the TC-1 copper crimps I prefer to Strip the wire long enough that it covers both crimping ends. Doing this will make the middle of the TC-1 Terminal stronger as for example if you take one and bend it in the middle it will break very easily, this once heat shrunk together if bent enough could potentially cause a cold joint. Having those wires cross over both of the two middle crimp tabs will also allow full amperage to pass through versus relying solely on the surface area of the TC-1 Terminal. Just my two cents. For larger crimps much like you've done, I have however much like you used the longer tabs to crimp all wires together and then used glue-lined heat shrink to aid in straight relief. keep in mind, I still allow the wires to at least cross-over the middle of the terminal connector and join each other where possible. Great video, very well detailed and You've shown some very nice tricks. I'd have probably ran all the coil +/- wires with the Recommended 18awg or slightly larger 17awg wire all the way down to the 6th coil where I would have then made either two crimps to one or one large crimp using a larger TC-C,B,orA connector to hold all the wires together and glue-line heatshrink. Less cutting and less crimp points that if not done correctly or with the right tools could lead to a failure or cold joint later down. I do understand why you chose your desired method as it will likely lead to a less bulkier harness. Very informative, keep em coming. I still would like to see a 2JZ GTE OEM Coil test against these New Dodo Racing coils. Lets make it happen 😉 Watching from the Caribbean, Dominica 🇩🇲 #767
I agree that the single splices are better, not only because the double splices can break in the middle, but also all the wires are connected directly to eachother. it just gets a little bit harder to splice them together if you have multiple wires. But if you have a strong heat shrink it will add quite a bit of rigidity to the connection! I know that most people would run all the coil wires down to only one big splice, but i like it more this way not only because the harness gets less bulky, but also joining 7 wires into 1 splice is harder to do correctly than 3 wires. btw i never had one of these double splices breaking on me, but i also know that they can when you bend them in the middle. i dont have any stock gte coils on hand, otherwise i would hook them up to my test rig :/
Another question I have. The 2jz ge vvti na is an interferance engine when it comes to valves and pistons right? How does one get the engine to Top dead Center when Timing it? Do you have to watch out while instslling the cams too? Sounds Hella complicated.
This is very nice and I would have a warm and fuzzy about buying an ignition harness from you. But for an everyday street car for around 650-700hp, would this be needed or could I run a single pwr/gnd10 awg and splice 6 12s to it?
Informative video, I have a question. Is it required to wire a Ballast Resistor to these coils to prevent from burning them up? or can they be permanently wired directly to battery source voltage? thanks
One more question. 😅 On the 2jz ge vvti you have no camshaft Sensors on the head. Would it be possible to machine custom valve Covers and mount them in there? Also do i have to get the intakte only? Or both? And why
I´m curious about the vvti on the 2jz ge. I have no idea how someone would set that up on a map. Also i would want to know if its enough to just have the intake or the exhaust cams with a sensor or if i dont need eather off them. Thanks
the stock ecu has a load(maf) vs rpm map for the vvt. we only have vvt on the intake. since most of the time, we are using map for load on aftermarket ecus, its not perfect because the vvt has effect on map, so the vvti control is kind of chasing its tail. most people just set a vvt table (map vs rpm) and then tune the VE table. but this is kinda dirty as 1. vvt takes some time to reach the desired angle, so your VE will be off (actual cam angle not equal to target angle). 2. you can not change your vvt map without re-tuning your ve table. if you want to do it the right way, you make a 4d map for VE, on the 4d axis 0deg, 10deg, 20deg, 30deg, 40deg, 50deg. lock the angle and fill the maps. now your ecu always knows how much fuel to inject, whatever your angle is, which means you can track your actual angle, not the "target angle" and inject accordingly. and NOW you can play around with the vvt table and see what gives you the best performance/economy. once i have measured the whole vvti map from the stock GE ecu. but of course, it doesnt mean much for a boosted application. if i had a stock GTE vvti here, i would love to see how toyota programmed the stock vvti map. its a lot of work, but i think its worth it. i have even purchased their SAE sheets to get to their stock VVT map, but the information is very vague.
@@DodoRacing sounds close to impossible to find the degrees it does whenever under different circumstances. Also in my mind wouldn't they be different whenever? Like 3000rpm 50% throttle would have a different ammount off vvt than like 3000rpm 80% throttle. But I could also imagine this beeing the easier Part to adjust in the ecu. On the other hand if you had like 5000rpm and 50% throttle it would have different angle again. So you would technicaly have to make different tables for different rpm and % off throttle? CrazY If my thoughts ofc are in any ways correct. 😅😂
Nice video. Think you nailed it, with just the right amount of information. cheers from New Zealand
Thank you!
such an easy to follow method. Thankyou for showing us one bit at a time. I now know why changing an ecu over is so time consuming.
very professional
My question is what connector did you use at the end of the harness? Because some of the wires are 20awg and others are 12-14awg
@6:37 with the TC-1 copper crimps I prefer to Strip the wire long enough that it covers both crimping ends. Doing this will make the middle of the TC-1 Terminal stronger as for example if you take one and bend it in the middle it will break very easily, this once heat shrunk together if bent enough could potentially cause a cold joint. Having those wires cross over both of the two middle crimp tabs will also allow full amperage to pass through versus relying solely on the surface area of the TC-1 Terminal.
Just my two cents. For larger crimps much like you've done, I have however much like you used the longer tabs to crimp all wires together and then used glue-lined heat shrink to aid in straight relief. keep in mind, I still allow the wires to at least cross-over the middle of the terminal connector and join each other where possible.
Great video, very well detailed and You've shown some very nice tricks. I'd have probably ran all the coil +/- wires with the Recommended 18awg or slightly larger 17awg wire all the way down to the 6th coil where I would have then made either two crimps to one or one large crimp using a larger TC-C,B,orA connector to hold all the wires together and glue-line heatshrink.
Less cutting and less crimp points that if not done correctly or with the right tools could lead to a failure or cold joint later down.
I do understand why you chose your desired method as it will likely lead to a less bulkier harness.
Very informative, keep em coming.
I still would like to see a 2JZ GTE OEM Coil test against these New Dodo Racing coils. Lets make it happen 😉
Watching from the Caribbean, Dominica 🇩🇲 #767
I agree that the single splices are better, not only because the double splices can break in the middle, but also all the wires are connected directly to eachother. it just gets a little bit harder to splice them together if you have multiple wires. But if you have a strong heat shrink it will add quite a bit of rigidity to the connection!
I know that most people would run all the coil wires down to only one big splice, but i like it more this way not only because the harness gets less bulky, but also joining 7 wires into 1 splice is harder to do correctly than 3 wires.
btw i never had one of these double splices breaking on me, but i also know that they can when you bend them in the middle.
i dont have any stock gte coils on hand, otherwise i would hook them up to my test rig :/
Keep it going. we need more educational content like this!
Great video 👍 very well explained.
The wiring from here to the ecu and explaining ecu variants / stock ecu’s would be helpful for even a short video ?
Another question I have. The 2jz ge vvti na is an interferance engine when it comes to valves and pistons right? How does one get the engine to Top dead Center when Timing it? Do you have to watch out while instslling the cams too? Sounds Hella complicated.
Which car is this? if it is for an is300 or GS300 you can time it by the dots so you dont stay at the top dead center. DOT on crank DOTS on cams
This is very nice and I would have a warm and fuzzy about buying an ignition harness from you. But for an everyday street car for around 650-700hp, would this be needed or could I run a single pwr/gnd10 awg and splice 6 12s to it?
Informative video, I have a question. Is it required to wire a Ballast Resistor to these coils to prevent from burning them up? or can they be permanently wired directly to battery source voltage? thanks
no ballast required
One more question. 😅 On the 2jz ge vvti you have no camshaft Sensors on the head. Would it be possible to machine custom valve Covers and mount them in there? Also do i have to get the intakte only? Or both? And why
I´m curious about the vvti on the 2jz ge. I have no idea how someone would set that up on a map. Also i would want to know if its enough to just have the intake or the exhaust cams with a sensor or if i dont need eather off them. Thanks
the stock ecu has a load(maf) vs rpm map for the vvt. we only have vvt on the intake. since most of the time, we are using map for load on aftermarket ecus, its not perfect because the vvt has effect on map, so the vvti control is kind of chasing its tail. most people just set a vvt table (map vs rpm) and then tune the VE table. but this is kinda dirty as 1. vvt takes some time to reach the desired angle, so your VE will be off (actual cam angle not equal to target angle). 2. you can not change your vvt map without re-tuning your ve table. if you want to do it the right way, you make a 4d map for VE, on the 4d axis 0deg, 10deg, 20deg, 30deg, 40deg, 50deg. lock the angle and fill the maps. now your ecu always knows how much fuel to inject, whatever your angle is, which means you can track your actual angle, not the "target angle" and inject accordingly. and NOW you can play around with the vvt table and see what gives you the best performance/economy. once i have measured the whole vvti map from the stock GE ecu. but of course, it doesnt mean much for a boosted application. if i had a stock GTE vvti here, i would love to see how toyota programmed the stock vvti map. its a lot of work, but i think its worth it. i have even purchased their SAE sheets to get to their stock VVT map, but the information is very vague.
@@DodoRacing sounds close to impossible to find the degrees it does whenever under different circumstances. Also in my mind wouldn't they be different whenever? Like 3000rpm 50% throttle would have a different ammount off vvt than like 3000rpm 80% throttle. But I could also imagine this beeing the easier Part to adjust in the ecu. On the other hand if you had like 5000rpm and 50% throttle it would have different angle again. So you would technicaly have to make different tables for different rpm and % off throttle? CrazY
If my thoughts ofc are in any ways correct. 😅😂
Thank you for your very detailed video. Since you now have an extra harness, can't you sell it to me? :D
seems like i couldnt motivate you to try yourself at wiring 😅 i will be offering a harness once ive found the right partner for it