How to install internally routed hydraulic brake hose in a Ibis Hakka MX Bike.
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- How to install internally routed hydraulic brake hose in a Ibis Hakka MX Bike. I use the Park Tool internal routing tool, IR-1 to run the hydraulic hose up the downtube of the bike.
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Thanks for the video, this was quite helpful.
Your welcome! Glad to help.
Any tricks for getting the foam dampening tubing on to the housing?
Sorry for the lag response. That can be a pain, I think I had to do this on some Specialized frames, I think I ran the housing through the frame with enough length to hang out a couple of feet. Shoot, I forget. I inched wormed it on at some point. I can see wd-40 being a lube to help slide it. Depending how big the opening to the frame is you may be able to slide the foam on the housing and then install it as a unit. You probably completed it by now though.
I would like to see what wouıd you do w/o the parktool tool. This is a commercial rather than a pro mechanic lesson.
You got it. I will make another video. Thanks for the feedback.
The most important lesson I learned as a bike mechanic, was 'use the right tool for the job'
As a pro mechanic, I have the correct tool.
Can you tell me what size bolts did you use for that flat mount disc brake 160 rotor adaptor to go underneath the chainstay to the plate? They look longer than the standard bolts that come with the brakes.
I don't know the size off hand, but they are very specific to the direct mount caliper. This brake style has 4 bolts total. Two for the adaptor and two more to mount the system to the frame.
Do you have a link to the stuff I need to do this like the fishing wire with proper end and such.
That was the Park Tool IR-1. www.parktool.com/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1
I like to use a tandem bike derailleur cable or brake and a internal plastic liner that can be found sold on its own from Jagwire or found in a derailleur cable Housing and stripp it down to get it out. Play with this combination.
For anyone else coming along to see this vid. If you're doing this often (i.e. you work in a shop), you'll have the tool. If you're a home mechanic and don't want to blow $70, there's a number of hacks to do the same job. If you have a small enough screw to fit through the housing port, you can screw that into one end of the housing and pull it though with some fishing line tied to the screw. Just clip that end of the housing when you shorten it to your desired length. My trick, because its what I had on hand last time, was to simply tie some dental floss to a cut kebab skewer and drop it through the frame to the bottom bracket. Run the housing from the other end to the bottom bracket it meets there. Tie the floss around the end of the housing and pull it through to the other end as done in this video with the tool. The skewer is then also your pick to help guide it through the end if you need. A $2 solution. Expensive fancy tools are for shop wrenches to be more efficient, since they need to do this repeatedly through their week. If you're only doing it once every couple years at home, hacks are more than enough if you give it a think.
VIDEO TEXT OVERLAY IS WAY TOO LARGE - OBSCURES YOUR PROCEDURES
Thanks for the feedback.
@@BikeTeacher - But great videos! - thanks for sharing your knowledge
wouldnt have been easier doing it from top to bottom instead?
No, When I received the bike from Ibis the hydraulic hose was already attached to the caliper. So I was forced to start bottom to top. Good question though. There was fluid in the line, not sure why. I was trying to keep the mess to a minimum. Also, I could have disconnected the hose from the caliper but then I would have needed to reinstall again, using a new barb and olive. Not a big deal but, again, trying to do less work and mess and waste parts. Thanks
The stiffness of the hose would allow for success or complications in either direction.
@@BikeTeacher , yep, makes sense, in that case... but I think if had to install a pre-existing brake (in one piece) I would separate the caliper instead of the shifter. That way you don't have leaks and it's easier to do the routing!
Thanks for the videos, they are very instructive
I agree, the lever was not connected yet. I still need to edit that video. Thanks for the feedback👍🏽. I will show bleeding as well.
Awful lot of 'cuts' in this tutorial...
I will work on that. Thanks