From my calculations Ollie used $1039.40 USD worth of Park Tools to install this $550 USD hydraulic brake set. However, we cyclists seem to loose all sense when it comes to spending on our bikes. Case in point I just spent an extra $120 on a some pedals just because they are a few grams lighter than the ones I had been happy with for 8 years.
Shoot, as a commuter I can go balls to the wall with spending and usually I still don't even come up close to what I would pay in gas for the year unless I'm starting a new bike from scratch
I mean I spent 40k php to convert my old mtb Specialized pitch comp 650b to a gravel bike when at the same price of the components I used I can buy a used grabel bike
This tutorial was absolutely what I needed to walk me through my first installation and setup of Shimano hydraulics. Clear instructions, great video to follow along, and one of the best instructors you could ask for. Thank you so much!
That was perfect! I have to do this and been watching many demonstrations and you have a real skill in communication. The experience and positive skill you have show clearly you are a serious cyclist. thanks from an old person that needed a good demonstration!
Not the latest Shimanos! I think this may be this generation of hoses and barbs, I have spent some anxious times looking for the olive that popped off from the hoses. The last install I did (GRX) actually has the olive inside the caliper port already; you supposed to just slide the hose with the barb into the screw-olive-port assembly. It's quite a bear since the fit is pretty tight, and I found it easier to take the olive out and manually slide it into the hose before inserting in the port.
Note that the "wedge" flatmount adaptor for 160mm rotors for the back calliper doesn't usually come with the groupset whereas the front one usually does. Just a heads up if you are buying components to build your own bike.
Great video. I would make a few additions. Firstly, it's just mineral oil and not brake or hydraulic fluid (which is corrosive) so not much to worry about when dealing with it. Also, for internal routing I find doing the opposite (getting the levers connected and then cutting the hose to length at the brake itself to be easier. Best video I've found on this... Thanks!
In the UK, they drive on the opposite side of the road and use the opposite brakes levers, right is front and left is back. Wah Wah. Thanks for informative video, bike dudes. Great entertainment for this rainy winter night.
@@mididoctors my bike came with tektro mechanical disc brakes and they are perfectly fine and safe. The only reason I want to change is because I like doing long and technical descents and hydraulic disc brakes are better for that.
Olly, I noticed that you did it, but you never mentioned why you had the crows foot adapter at 90 degrees to the torque wrench. If anyone is wondering, it keeps the effective length the same, and therefore the torque the same (or near enough, it's not a perfect method, but close enough).
Except: As used, you can see that it ends up at about 30 degrees to the axis of the torque wrench... Which means the torque ended up a little different. :)
Installing a new 105 groupset into my Orbea bike and Ollie just answered all the questions I had and any that may arise later. Thanks for the wonderfully detailed video!!
Recently bled my brakes and had the black bar on the syringe positioned the same way as seen at 16:20 and was (unknowingly) slowly closing the bleed port back up. You can kind of see that happening in the video. Created a few issues for me before realizing what was happening.
The Tube cutter is an expensive investment for occasional use. You can get just as clean a cut with a $10 Co-Ax cable stripper set on its smallest setting. Loads to choose from in your favorite online store. The barb can be lightly tapped in without the help of a special tool. Cable routing - some stiff garden wire with the tip bent over into a tight smooth bend gets the job done for cents. Especially if you are having to find the route on a frame that doesn't have messengers already fitted.
Shimano brakes come with the hose connected to the caliper. They should come with the cable connected to the levers instead. I had to disconnect the hose from the caliper to get the hose routed through the fork.
Did I miss something or did the bleeding part consist only of pushing the oil into the system? I feel like this might leave some air in the system, which would cause trouble when braking. After all, if you're not moving the pistons, why would you need a bleed block?
no expert here, but if you do not put the block in, the pistons can be pushed out of the caliper. I think this would ruin the entire brake. When there is fluid in the hoses, this could easily happen when you accidentally bump into one of the levers...And this way, the pistons are safely pushed all the way back, this way you cant put to much fluid into the system. ...and yep, normally you would do all sorts of shaking and tapping to get rid of all the bubbles.
Also if you noticed when we had the fluid in he was pulling on the lever multiple times that makes air bubbles get out the system crating a much more tighter feel when braking. (Don't forget the bleed block is still in the caliper for the pistons)
Was thinking about doing part of this while fitting new Di2 shifters but even though the video really explained things well, I think I'll leave it to the experts at the local shop.
I noticed you didn't talk about expecting air bubbles to come through in the reservoir and what to do if the brake feels spongy after bleeding or there is lots of travel in the leaver or the loss of breaking if the bike was turned upside down. Will there be a part 2 to this video as it's not quite as simple as that and think it's worth will sharing with your viewers/home mechanics
how ever the kit is costly but the workmanship one must appreciate off course there is different set of customers who can choose these hydraulic brakes nice work shop rather I can call it work studio.
Meanwhile ive ripped apart my rim brake supersix high mod evo from 2017 three times, repainted and put back together by the time we put the fluid in, what a load of faff cba with it
dont forget that sometimes you have to restart the pistons, they extend continuously as you rotors get thinner and thinner due to wear, so if you replace just the rotors you might have rub no matter how you are centering the calipers and nothing helps you, push the pistons with pads OUT to create bigger gap and then it will be ok
Very important piece of equipment prior to routing internal cables, the swear jar, and make sure the kids are at the other end of the house. Even with an internal routing kit (which are magic BTW), there will be enough money in the swear jar for a nice holiday 🤑
Thanks for the video, Ollie - clear and concise. I think others have mentioned the bleeding technique. The full Shimano process is a bit more involved and, in my own experience anyway, vital to getting decent lever feel, where it doesn't feel that you're grabbing a load of air at every pull of the lever. TBH, that's a video in its own right, and would be well worth doing as it's a dark art and so often done wrong. Maybe one for the future? Also, as a note on the bike - I love the clean lines of hidden cables as much as the next person, but the part of me that rides in Yorkshire winces at the sight of cables running through the middle of headset bearings and the thought that swapping these is transformed from a 15 minute job into one that is likely to take several hours! What are your own thoughts around this development in bike design? A step too far?
Good argument. But, even having replaced my internal cables and housings, a few times, with the associated swearing, I still prefer them over external, if only because it keeps a lot of muck out of the cables and housing, and it looks cleaner. I know, form over function argument there.......
Hi Alain, to remove, it's best practise to cut the hose to remove and discard the section with the brass olive and the barb (being careful not to hit the barb with your cutters so as not to damage them). The barb and olive should be replaced with new ones but the nut is reusable!
Keep in mind that common brake fluid and hydraulic mineral oil are very different substances. Brake fluid is rather nasty stuff, and very corrosive to paint (though it won't burn your skin). Hydraulic mineral oil is much less nasty stuff, which can easily be cleaned off with soap and water. When handling brake fluid or mineral oil, make sure not the shake or drop the containers, as this can cause bubbles which you may not be able to see, and you don't want bubbles in your brake system.
Hi, I love the color of this bike. What is it? Perl orange? any code? and what is this frame? I would like to build a gravel of this color, could you help?
Great job Ollie. I have a question though. Torque wrench practices teach us that when using a crows foot adapter such as you use, you must then account for this leverage in the value or the setting which results in a lower setting. This must be accounted for as due to the the position of the crows foot this can change by as much 30 or more %. So my question is was that 5nm with this adjustment value or is this value shimano says to use with a crows foot.
Does anyone know what's going on at 17:46, when it cuts to him doing something with the lever funnel that seems to send oil rushing back into the syringe? Is it just to recover some oil from the funnel to save for another day?
@everyone Hey guys, I am switching to a new frame. but my grx 400 hydraulic sti are routed internally from the old frame. Do I have to drain the whole fluid, and potentially replace the hydraulic line/cables? Tnx.
Whilst this is a good tutorial, you may find that the second half of the bleed process is missing. If you follow this guide to the letter, in the end you may still have no brake when you pull the lever. I did this step by step and my system was still full of air. I had to fill the fluid reservoir at the brake lever and then attach a hose / catch can (bottle) to the calliper bleed port. Open the bleed port with a 7mm spanner and pull the brake lever. You will see lots of air escape. Whilst the lever is pulled in, close the bleed port. Repeat this over and over (keeping the reservoir topped up at all times!) until no more air comes out.
You can do, it’ll be less messy but not completely necessary, you could simply just unbolt at the shifter and drain whatever is in the top part of the hose into a cup. Replace with a new olive and rebleed fully. You’ll find a lot of short cuts along the way.
I got a lot from this thank you. Can I ask, new 2020/21 front callipers have a ratchet mechanism on the lower calliper bolt. Is this for changing the way the cantering adjustment is made. I’m a newbie bike builder working in a busy bike shop, thanks again 👍
From my calculations Ollie used $1039.40 USD worth of Park Tools to install this $550 USD hydraulic brake set. However, we cyclists seem to loose all sense when it comes to spending on our bikes. Case in point I just spent an extra $120 on a some pedals just because they are a few grams lighter than the ones I had been happy with for 8 years.
Shoot, as a commuter I can go balls to the wall with spending and usually I still don't even come up close to what I would pay in gas for the year unless I'm starting a new bike from scratch
I mean I spent 40k php to convert my old mtb Specialized pitch comp 650b to a gravel bike when at the same price of the components I used I can buy a used grabel bike
I just wondered how much the whole Park tool collection behind him is worth…🫣
This tutorial was absolutely what I needed to walk me through my first installation and setup of Shimano hydraulics. Clear instructions, great video to follow along, and one of the best instructors you could ask for. Thank you so much!
That was perfect! I have to do this and been watching many demonstrations and you have a real skill in communication. The experience and positive skill you have show clearly you are a serious cyclist. thanks from an old person that needed a good demonstration!
Best advert for mechanical brakes I have seen
ALWAYS push the olive and nut onto the hose before installing the barb. Most barbs are to big to slide an olive and nut over.
Not the latest Shimanos! I think this may be this generation of hoses and barbs, I have spent some anxious times looking for the olive that popped off from the hoses. The last install I did (GRX) actually has the olive inside the caliper port already; you supposed to just slide the hose with the barb into the screw-olive-port assembly. It's quite a bear since the fit is pretty tight, and I found it easier to take the olive out and manually slide it into the hose before inserting in the port.
You can also very easily just hammer the barb into the housing with a pair of pliers and the yellow blocks that usually come with the brakes.
I just love my colnago master with rim brake and external cables!
I was considering swapping out my shifters and brakes, and this video gave me the confidence that I could do it myself. Thank you.
Great video GCN. I’ve been intimidated about disc maintenance. Feeling confident now.
Note that the "wedge" flatmount adaptor for 160mm rotors for the back calliper doesn't usually come with the groupset whereas the front one usually does. Just a heads up if you are buying components to build your own bike.
I found that out. Doesn’t make any sense to me.
Great video. I would make a few additions. Firstly, it's just mineral oil and not brake or hydraulic fluid (which is corrosive) so not much to worry about when dealing with it. Also, for internal routing I find doing the opposite (getting the levers connected and then cutting the hose to length at the brake itself to be easier. Best video I've found on this... Thanks!
In the UK, they drive on the opposite side of the road and use the opposite brakes levers, right is front and left is back. Wah Wah. Thanks for informative video, bike dudes. Great entertainment for this rainy winter night.
This is just perfect as I just bought a gravel bike that had mechanical disc brakes and I want to upgrade to hydraulic brakes
Hydraulic came on my grail, 105 and they are the best..
@@markalfresco yeah I plan on upgrading my groupset to Ultegra Di2 hydraulic disc brakes. Have heard great things about them
BTDT
Where the mech discs functional and safe? What brand ?
@@mididoctors my bike came with tektro mechanical disc brakes and they are perfectly fine and safe. The only reason I want to change is because I like doing long and technical descents and hydraulic disc brakes are better for that.
Olly, I noticed that you did it, but you never mentioned why you had the crows foot adapter at 90 degrees to the torque wrench. If anyone is wondering, it keeps the effective length the same, and therefore the torque the same (or near enough, it's not a perfect method, but close enough).
"Every days a school day" i dont have a crows foot adapter, but if i get one i will know now.
Thanks for the tip. I haven't even seen that on the Park Tool videos.
Except: As used, you can see that it ends up at about 30 degrees to the axis of the torque wrench... Which means the torque ended up a little different. :)
For a GCN video, that was surprisingly clear and complete. Well done and thank you!
Pppp
Clear, concise and plenty of helpful hints to future proof an installation. Thank you. J
thank you so much for sharing, I am a completely newbie in biking. Hope I can do DIY maintenance. Thanks again
Perfect. Clears out many misconceptions i had. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Installing a new 105 groupset into my Orbea bike and Ollie just answered all the questions I had and any that may arise later. Thanks for the wonderfully detailed video!!
Epic, thanks. This prepped me for installing integrated bars tomorrow morning 😄
Thank you! Ill be building up a couple bikes for my wife and i soon and this has helped a tonne. Will likely come back to it.
Thank you so much! This video very useful. From malaysia 🇲🇾
Well done and helpful video, thanks!
Cool looking bike, nice ride, I reccomend this to anyone for just riding, like beginner riding
Clean work, finest i should say!
Recently bled my brakes and had the black bar on the syringe positioned the same way as seen at 16:20 and was (unknowingly) slowly closing the bleed port back up. You can kind of see that happening in the video. Created a few issues for me before realizing what was happening.
thanks Ollie, very clear and usefull explaination 👍
Great instructional Ollie, but 2 mins in and I know why I use my local bike shop
Many thanks for this excellent explanation! I will need this as soon as Shimano groupsets become available again...
Very helpful. Thank you.
Hi, I'd love to see a similar tech video on Sram force disk breaks - it would be most helpful at the moment -- thanks
Definitely the best explanation thet I see . thank you.
Thanks, I will check 👍
The Tube cutter is an expensive investment for occasional use. You can get just as clean a cut with a $10 Co-Ax cable stripper set on its smallest setting. Loads to choose from in your favorite online store. The barb can be lightly tapped in without the help of a special tool.
Cable routing - some stiff garden wire with the tip bent over into a tight smooth bend gets the job done for cents. Especially if you are having to find the route on a frame that doesn't have messengers already fitted.
Easy step by step install
Shimano brakes come with the hose connected to the caliper. They should come with the cable connected to the levers instead. I had to disconnect the hose from the caliper to get the hose routed through the fork.
Thank you, Doctor!
Would love to see a similar video for SRAM AXS (Force or Red)
I've watched enough dream build to already know this process
this is a superb video. Thanks for this.
Did I miss something or did the bleeding part consist only of pushing the oil into the system? I feel like this might leave some air in the system, which would cause trouble when braking. After all, if you're not moving the pistons, why would you need a bleed block?
no expert here, but if you do not put the block in, the pistons can be pushed out of the caliper. I think this would ruin the entire brake. When there is fluid in the hoses, this could easily happen when you accidentally bump into one of the levers...And this way, the pistons are safely pushed all the way back, this way you cant put to much fluid into the system.
...and yep, normally you would do all sorts of shaking and tapping to get rid of all the bubbles.
Also if you noticed when we had the fluid in he was pulling on the lever multiple times that makes air bubbles get out the system crating a much more tighter feel when braking. (Don't forget the bleed block is still in the caliper for the pistons)
Was thinking about doing part of this while fitting new Di2 shifters but even though the video really explained things well, I think I'll leave it to the experts at the local shop.
I noticed you didn't talk about expecting air bubbles to come through in the reservoir and what to do if the brake feels spongy after bleeding or there is lots of travel in the leaver or the loss of breaking if the bike was turned upside down.
Will there be a part 2 to this video as it's not quite as simple as that and think it's worth will sharing with your viewers/home mechanics
I would really enjoy a good video explaining how to install the Shimano GRX BL-RX812 sub-brake lever into an existing hydraulic brake installation.
Damn fine instructional video! Thanks GCN.
really excellent how-to. Thank you.
Thanks Ollie!!!!
Perfect !
Thanks. Now I also know how to calibrate the brakes so it does not rub on the rotor
Superb video. Very clearly explained.
how ever the kit is costly but the workmanship one must appreciate off course there is different set of customers who can choose these hydraulic brakes nice work shop rather I can call it work studio.
Out of curiosity: where can the crow foot adaptor be bought from?
Oliver, why don't you just do it like it says in the Shimano manual?
Meanwhile ive ripped apart my rim brake supersix high mod evo from 2017 three times, repainted and put back together by the time we put the fluid in, what a load of faff cba with it
Cutting hoses doesn't always require re-bleeding
dont forget that sometimes you have to restart the pistons, they extend continuously as you rotors get thinner and thinner due to wear, so if you replace just the rotors you might have rub no matter how you are centering the calipers and nothing helps you, push the pistons with pads OUT to create bigger gap and then it will be ok
That orbea looks sweeet ❤️
Very well done. 👍
Really interesting, I was wondering how the disks come off, as I come from a mtb background.
Same way as MTB either centre lock or 6 bolt
Great video - so well explained.
Very important piece of equipment prior to routing internal cables, the swear jar, and make sure the kids are at the other end of the house.
Even with an internal routing kit (which are magic BTW), there will be enough money in the swear jar for a nice holiday 🤑
Richard Haselwood just finished the routing. The neighborhood in concerned for my families welfare after all swearing going on during the project.
@@treborparkes Maybe the recommended tools list should include good sound proofing of your workshop :)
Truth
Track cyclists: what are these “brakes” you speak of?
is this some sort of alien things? lmao
Sayed bhai can i configure this hydrolic disk break on my fire fox tarmak
2.39: Yeah yeah yeah. Bike must be silent.
Where can I buy this? Thanks
I’ve my new disk break setup.. definitely saves carbon wheels 😁
Thanks for the video, Ollie - clear and concise.
I think others have mentioned the bleeding technique. The full Shimano process is a bit more involved and, in my own experience anyway, vital to getting decent lever feel, where it doesn't feel that you're grabbing a load of air at every pull of the lever. TBH, that's a video in its own right, and would be well worth doing as it's a dark art and so often done wrong. Maybe one for the future?
Also, as a note on the bike - I love the clean lines of hidden cables as much as the next person, but the part of me that rides in Yorkshire winces at the sight of cables running through the middle of headset bearings and the thought that swapping these is transformed from a 15 minute job into one that is likely to take several hours! What are your own thoughts around this development in bike design? A step too far?
Good argument. But, even having replaced my internal cables and housings, a few times, with the associated swearing, I still prefer them over external, if only because it keeps a lot of muck out of the cables and housing, and it looks cleaner. I know, form over function argument there.......
Thank you bro
Great video. Thanks. Is there a way how I can remove the olive and the piston thing from the braking cable once it has been installed?
Hi Alain, to remove, it's best practise to cut the hose to remove and discard the section with the brass olive and the barb (being careful not to hit the barb with your cutters so as not to damage them). The barb and olive should be replaced with new ones but the nut is reusable!
Keep in mind that common brake fluid and hydraulic mineral oil are very different substances. Brake fluid is rather nasty stuff, and very corrosive to paint (though it won't burn your skin). Hydraulic mineral oil is much less nasty stuff, which can easily be cleaned off with soap and water. When handling brake fluid or mineral oil, make sure not the shake or drop the containers, as this can cause bubbles which you may not be able to see, and you don't want bubbles in your brake system.
Hi, I love the color of this bike. What is it? Perl orange? any code? and what is this frame? I would like to build a gravel of this color, could you help?
Hey! Does this fitting guide works also for gravel GRX Shimano? Thank you :)
Where did you get the foam sleeve you used, does it also fit a Di2 wire and what is the internal and external diameters? Thanks
thanks, great video
Very instructive and clear, many thanks. What is the brand of the stem and the handlebar?
Great job Ollie.
I have a question though. Torque wrench practices teach us that when using a crows foot adapter such as you use, you must then account for this leverage in the value or the setting which results in a lower setting. This must be accounted for as due to the the position of the crows foot this can change by as much 30 or more %. So my question is was that 5nm with this adjustment value or is this value shimano says to use with a crows foot.
I'm upgrading to Tiagra with hydraulic brakes, hoping that the process is similar.
any tips on what to do if there's not a lot of room in the pads and the rotor?
good stuff!
I noticed the handle bars were straight when you measured the hose to cut, shouldn't you turn the handle bars to ensure there is enough play?
#askGCNTech What happened to the search for a new GCN Tech presenter?
ps Nothing against Ollie. He's doing a top job.
stay tuned! announcement coming soon
@@GCNuser123 love ya work!
How much fluid do you need for ultegra 8020? Thank you
What kind of brakes will your next road bike have?
breaking is for losers
Road - Rim ONLY
Gravel - Disc
Rim, on a rim specific frame not one these token compromised rim frames with long chain stays.
@@sexyhemch Breaks are for recovery.
Direct mount rim brakes, of course.
Does anyone know what's going on at 17:46, when it cuts to him doing something with the lever funnel that seems to send oil rushing back into the syringe?
Is it just to recover some oil from the funnel to save for another day?
No mention of torque settings from fitting brakes or fitting cables to brakes .. 101 or just give it a crack?
"Backward pressure" formerly known as SUCTION.
DOT-fluid is caustic but mineral oil ( unless it's of the watersoluble kind )??
mineral oil will mess up the rubber of your hoods.
My bleed screw is a 2mm BTW
@everyone Hey guys, I am switching to a new frame. but my grx 400 hydraulic sti are routed internally from the old frame. Do I have to drain the whole fluid, and potentially replace the hydraulic line/cables? Tnx.
Front brake at the right side?
What kind of grease I had to put on the nuts?
can annybody help me with the question wgat is the COLOR CODE of this orange frame in the footage above?
Whilst this is a good tutorial, you may find that the second half of the bleed process is missing. If you follow this guide to the letter, in the end you may still have no brake when you pull the lever. I did this step by step and my system was still full of air. I had to fill the fluid reservoir at the brake lever and then attach a hose / catch can (bottle) to the calliper bleed port. Open the bleed port with a 7mm spanner and pull the brake lever. You will see lots of air escape. Whilst the lever is pulled in, close the bleed port. Repeat this over and over (keeping the reservoir topped up at all times!) until no more air comes out.
thanks a lot
Odd question but can I use a hydrolic car style handbreak with these disk break ?
Thanks much for video, I planning to upgrade my shifters, my question is do I need to remove the hydraulic fluids?
You can do, it’ll be less messy but not completely necessary, you could simply just unbolt at the shifter and drain whatever is in the top part of the hose into a cup. Replace with a new olive and rebleed fully. You’ll find a lot of short cuts along the way.
I've been watching your vids
Can i ask what kind of shimano disc brakes are you using
I got a lot from this thank you. Can I ask, new 2020/21 front callipers have a ratchet mechanism on the lower calliper bolt. Is this for changing the way the cantering adjustment is made. I’m a newbie bike builder working in a busy bike shop, thanks again 👍
What torque for the frame mounting bolts?
Can you tell me the brand of brake rotor you are using on this project? Thank you.
21:20 that's a lot of give in the lever
Where can I buy that 8mm crow foot adapter? Wish GCN would post links to the parts they use.....
How many newton meters should the calliper bolts be tightened to on a carbon frame?
Does this tutorial apply to GRX components as well?