Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Front Control Arm Replacement DIY (2015-2021 VW Mk7 Golf R)
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2024
- ►The control arms on the Mk7 Golf R are very similar to the pieces on the high-performance Audi TT models. Over time, the control arms will wear, leaving you with a sloppy and vague steering feel. Replace your control arms around the 70-100,000 mile mark to revive the sharp and precise handling found in every Mk7 Golf R.
Within the arms are two rubber bushings and bolted to them is a ball joint. The bushings and joints are all subject to road forces, so they're going to wear down, no matter what. Luckily, the replacement process is very straightforward and shouldn't cause you much trouble to complete.
Watch as FCP Euro's Professional DIY'er, Mike Hidalgo, replaces the front control arms and ball joints in a Mk7 VW Golf R.
00:00 - Intro & Tools Needed
02:59 - Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Front Wheel Removal
03:51 - Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Front Control Arm Removal
05:30 - Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Dogbone Mount Removal
06:28 - Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Ball Joint Replacement
14:15 - Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Front Control Arm Installation
20:36 - Wrap-up
Shop the parts used in this video:
Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Control Arm (Front Left): www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-c...
Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Control Arm (Front Right): www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-c...
Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Ball Joint Kit: www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-b...
Volkswagen Mk7 Golf R Sway Bar Link Kit: www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-s...
Volkswagen Bolt: www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-s...
This video applies to the following vehicles:
GTI & Golf MK7
2015 Volkswagen GTI
2016 Volkswagen GTI
2017 Volkswagen GTI
2018 Volkswagen GTI
2019 Volkswagen GTI
2020 Volkswagen GTI
2021 Volkswagen GTI
Golf R MK7
2015 Volkswagen Golf R
2016 Volkswagen Golf R
2017 Volkswagen Golf R
2018 Volkswagen Golf R
2019 Volkswagen Golf R
e-Golf MK7
2015 Volkswagen e-Golf
2016 Volkswagen e-Golf
2017 Volkswagen e-Golf
2018 Volkswagen e-Golf
2019 Volkswagen e-Golf
Golf Alltrack MK7
2017 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack
2018 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack
2019 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack
Jetta MK7
2019 Volkswagen Jetta
2020 Volkswagen Jetta
2021 Volkswagen Jetta
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Авто/Мото
Love your videos.
Great tips, thanks!
Great video! very informative :)
Well done
Good jobs
Thanks good man!
What is the part number for the bolt facing the gearbox? I’ve searched and come across bolts but diagrams never show the right one. Any help will be greatly appreciated
At 5:30, when you pry the engine...
My front control arm bushing bolts are 122mm long ( almost 4 7/8" ) on my car.
Is it doable on a 2010 Jetta 2.5l, sedan, comfortline, CBTA engine with a KGL automatic transmission.
I don't want my cv axles to pop out of transmission or splitting in half at the inner boots.
Thx
Hey Mike, Thanks for this video explaining the process. I have some questions, please help to answer if you don't mind, or if you can shoot it into a video.
Recently I had my golf mk7 front control arm and stabilizer links changed due to cracks (to oem). Thereafter I started noticing clunking sound whenever I approach humps. My mechanic then changed those parts to original VW parts and the sound is still persistent. They speculate it was due to the stabilizer bar bushing itself but wasn't confident about it. Would you mind sharing your thoughts and if possible the physical process of changing one?
Glad you found it helpful! That clunk is a tough call. Anytime something originates after working on the car, you'll want to retrace steps to see if something that was touched is making the noise. Without hearing the noise or driving the car, a clunk or suspension noise is hard to diagnose. Does it happen over bumps. or slow transitions? (like entering a driveway or going over a speed bump). Is it high toned or low toned? Does it seem solid or light? Is it a "clunk" or more of a "POP"? The factory rubber bushings on the sway bars tend to last quite a long time. To replace, the front subframe will need to be lowered, various bits loosened or removed, and the car will need an alignment after. It does take some time - at least 3 hours, possibly a bit more.
What torque specification can be used when reusing bolts?
just good and tight
sincerely, person who completed this job 15 minutes ago
Can I ask who manufactures the OEM components that were removed. For example, the ball joints & control arms. I’m aware TRW make components for VW but I would like to know if this is still the case for the MK7 R
SKF makes the wheel bearings for MQB platform, but generally it doesn't matter, RIDEX, FebiBillstein, Mapco, they are all the same, just make sure the part number is compatible with your car, if the part number is compatible, then any manufacturer will do perfectly fine. But personally, i would not buy anything from ATE, their tolerances on brake discs and pads are horrible.
@@krisg822 Thank you for your reply but like you said regarding ATE. It’s all good part numbers match but certain brands are not built to withstand the endurance needed. I tend to stick with what came on the car from factory MINUS the stealerships logos
@@michael6125 exactly, front wheel bearing from seat service cost 270Eur a piece, that without installing. Same part online costs 80 maybe 100Eur, the difference is, the online part has no "VW Audi" logo.
@@michael6125 oh and Topran is also manufacturing the suspension parts for VW. Then Monroe for the shock absorbers.
Do a video for a lower control arm driver side for 2006 mk5 Passat vw
Those b5.5 chassis are pretty much audi suspension
Isn't 06 the next b6 generation passat?
B6 passat is based the b7 a4
👏👍🤙
I couldn’t get enough movement of the trans and engine to get the front left bolt out… 🤦♂️
I used my longest, beefiest pry bar, but didn’t want to risk damaging the case in my $4500 DSG.
Subframe’s a comin’ off.
i know it’s probably too late but you don’t need to touch any of the bolts on the car besides the 2 control arm bolts and the lower ball joint.. a person helping is all you really need
@@turboshotthopassenger side doesn’t require that drivers side does
@@mickeyyy7571i’ve done both sides and did not need to loosen anything other than what I mentioned
How hard to take subframe off?
It’s not bad at all if you have proper tools and you’re careful.
1) Support the car on a lift or jackstands, remove wheels, disconnect front sway bar links (you can leave them on the struts, just disconnect the lowers from the FSB)
2A) disconnect the sensors and harnesses for the VAQ diff and the oil level sensor.
2) make scribe marks around the body locations where the subframe is positioned.
3) remove rear downpipe to cradle bolts (2x 13mm heads)
4) Loosen rear subframe brackets and the small bolts
5) loosen the 2 rear subframe bolts (3-turns max)
6) support the front of the subframe with a small or medium floor jack (1.5 ton aluminum floorjack works well from HF)
7) loosen and remove the front 2 subframe bolts
8) use the floor jack to carefully lower the front of the subframe several inches.
Notice I did not say to completely remove the subframe.
You can use the above method to replace the front LCAs and/or the front sway bar.
Leaving the rear bolts in place, but loose, makes working with the front subframe, and reinstalling and aligning it…10x smoother and easier. 😎
Hit the 👍 button if you folks would like to see me make a short video documenting this process. 🍻
that plastic sump is really pissing me off , hot oil and plastic is not a good combination
You dont know much ay mate
That music loop that keeps playing is annoying! Why not just leave it quiet instead of this repeating earworm?? Irritating!
Horrible vehicle engineering
Why, its a pretty simple job to do