6.7 Heater Grid RELOCATION *Pt. 1*
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Here detailed removal of the 6.7 Cummins heater grid, which is prone to failure. When the heater grid solenoid fails, it fails in the ON position, so it sends over 200 amps of electricity to the grid not just for a few seconds, but CONTINUOUSLY. Here is where the heater grid stud/nut can melt off of the grid and fall into the intake and engine, which will be a VERY expensive repair (several thousand dollars for an engine replacement). Again, we, the customer, have to deal with poorly engineered systems that shorten the life (or destroy) our $50,000 + investment.
In Part 2 we will be installing components from Glacier Diesel Power. There is a heater grid delete plate, new gaskets, and a new heater grid that is installed in a safer area.
Why is this not a class action lawsuit?????!!!!!
Nothing about this is easy, especially on a 3500 with the aisin transmission.
I do understand why you’re worried about the bolt. As we should be. But you’re not even going to use stock grade heater. You’re unhooking the wire. And bolting it up to the second grade heater. So you shouldn’t have to worry about the bolt burning off. Just asking for a friend. 🤔
Easier and a more secure connection would be, IMHO, to attach a ground strap to the bolts on the negative side of the grid heater and ground that strap to the block, or even to the battery's negative terminal.
And also, any opening on the engine, when I work on something besides it, I usually cover with a cloth, or rag, to eliminate any chance of dropping any parts or debris into the engine. I made it a habit, even where you would think it's not needed.
Otherwise, thanks for the video, I think I will go the same route on relocating my grid heater.
Good video
I've done this grid heat delete and I've watched a lot of vids on it. I must say your video is one of the better detailed videos on doing it, good job!
best vid on disassembly I've found - especially how to release the wire connectors - thanks
If that new heater grid is made of aluminum, steel bolts will cause corrosion because of dissimilar metals.
Thanks for your detailed video. No one has ever shown, or talked about what it is they have to do with the sixth rail. I'm in the process of installing the Banks Monster Ram and have only been able to get the nut on the injector side to turn a fraction of an inch. Not enough to tuck it out of the way. I've even lost a crow's foot! I thought there would be more to removing that engine hoist bracket, but if it's one 15mm bolt, then that's my next course of action. Thanks!
Very well done removal video. Your camera skills are fantastic!
The absolute BEST plenum removal video out there. I will be upgrading to the MONSTER RAM soon and wanted a good video. Found it. Thank you. No unnecessary chatter and lots of useful tips.
Where's part 2
Thank you for putting this informative video out. I have watched several videos for this issue and yours is the best, by far.
Glad it helps, hope you get yours resolved easily snd quickly.
Really good video, helped a lot. Thank
Great video, thank you!
The blue plate that says sinister diesel what is that plate blocking off?Whats the reason you blocked it wanna know if it’s something I should do to mine?
I want to do this to my truck but I think an easier way would have been to just leave that grid heater plate in place once you disconnect the power wire running to it it’s not gonna cause any more failures and then you could use some metal snips to cut the fins out of the actual grid heater and skip the whole disassembly part. All of this is of fours if your nut isn’t lose from the beginning.
I thought about that too! But do be careful with your "snipping" that you don't lose any metal pieces into the top of your cylinders. Also, it's not exactly thin metal, so I'm not sure what exactly it would take to tear the metal all apart in small enough pieces to get it back up out of the hole. And disconnecting the power wire may or may not give you an error code. And where I live it's well below zero a lot of the winter, so I need the grid heater, so cutting the cable and disabling it isn't really an option for me. But it is for people that live in warmer climates 👍
Should have gotten the Banks kit 😢
Thanks for putting this out. We just had our engine swapped due to a different (maybe) failure. We had mentioned this condition to the mechanic that did the swap and apparently he didn't do the jiggle test, because our's is B A D bad. We filtered through a dozen or so videos to finally find yours, which is thorough and very helpful. Glacier's part is out of stock (backordered elements), so we're looking at using the Black Market Performance kit, which looks to be a mix of the Glacier (in-line before elbow) and Banks (threaded heater element). Any chance Part 2 will be out in the next couple days?! 😂
I have it almost finished! But really installation is just the reverse of removal. Make sure you put a wrench on the cross tube nut, before you tighten the fuel lines down on them, just to make sure the cross tubes don't rotate. That can cause a fuel leak inside your engine.
My grid heater wire melted off. Bolt is fine but the grid heater deleted itself
LOL, but Wow! Just when I thought I had heard it all with these grid heaters, that's crazy. I wonder if there was a bad connection between the wire and the grid heater. Thanks for sharing that 👍
How long did it take to delete heater grid Start to finish
Took about 6 hours total, that was with videoing. Another user told me it took him 4 hrs. Personally I did a lot of planning, and try to have all my tools ready, and my parts all organized. Had I known now what I didn't know before I started this, it would have taken three or four hours 😂
What is the manufacturer of the heater your using? Do you have to modify the rubber hose? Thanx.
GDP... Glacier Diesel Power... Apologies that I haven't finished the second part of the video yet. And no, haven't had to modify anything, this is pretty much a direct bolt on... I used all the parts from GDP, the delete plate, the intake horn, and the grid heater. It's working really well here in cold Colorado where we've already had minus 15F and it's barely December LOL
Billet aluminum is nice but….and the grid across the opening is still restricting. Not trying to be negative but the screw-in type by BD diesel is less than 1/3 the price. In fact in Canada it’s over $600 and BD’s IS $180. Very nice job with your camera angles and explanations on removing the grid heater, by the way.👍
@@FireBosspilot wowza, That's a huge price difference. Thanks for sharing that 👍
@@FireBosspiloti heard the screw in type heaters dont work as good as the GDP ones. I just ordered mine today. 460$
What mileage
About 90k
What year is your truck?
2012
What mileage?