Cummins Grid Heater Killer Bolt Issue - Amps & Voltage on engine start
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- Опубликовано: 11 янв 2019
- On rare occasions, the Cummins Grid Heater fails and drops metal into the intake manifold causing a catastrophic engine failure. This video explains the issue and some reasonable visual checks you can do to check the health of your grid heater. This is a 2014 RAM Laramie, 5 years old.
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I disabled my grid heater last week. This issue needs to be a class action lawsuit, Ram needs to make this a recall.
it’s a pretty rare thing to happen is what I’ve read so far.
Not rare at all. Only people that no about it fix it....mine at 60000kms and failed the wiggle test. Now have to order banks grid heater...
@@mikecabot1617 Yup my 2016 with 120K just faild the jiggle test. Banks ram air going in next week.
@@richardcooper6050 I went with BD diesel after, mainly because I may go with their turbo set up down the road. Same purpose. Waiting game now...
Thanks Marion. Your work is helping us check on potential problems, and correct them before a major incident occurs.
I watched the whole thing. Great to hear from you Marion - I am not concerned.
You are a wealth of info. Traced my circuit today to identify for my “check list” keep the vids coming!!
Thank you
Thanks again ! The amps that pulls is quite a bit, it also explains a few other things associated with the electrical system. I was going to ask where the bolt actually was but then discovered you put out a prior video ( which is this one)
Please keep your truck for a long time as I will need more help in the future.
Thanks for the informative video Marion. I viewed some of your other Ram videos before seeing this one and knew you would b a good source for information. My 2013 Cummins with 62,000 miles is in the shop now for the grid heater / relay replacement after I checked the power post and found it was loose. That was after my truck check engine light came on and coded p2609. I asked the repair technician to return the old parts to me so I can see how far the bolt was melted down. This is my first serious problem with the truck in 7 1/2 years of driving so it’s not all that bad. Keep the videos coming!
Yea, I had a bad relay also and same code. I leave mine disconnected.
Where do you live? I’m wondering if this has much higher failure rates in very cold climates due to the heater cycling more?? I’m in Texas and have never heard of it happening.
Thanks for the great video. Im checking this today as I am having an electrical issue where the grid heater light came on while driving and my voltage meter dropped to about 8v. Checking ground wires today too.
I really like your videos. Please keep them coming.
thank you Mohammed!
Best video I’ve seen on this issue yet thank you!
Thanks for the video, very informative as usual.
Thanks again my friend for all the great info I appreciate it and hope you have a great day❤️❤️👍👍👍
Great video and puts my mind a ease a bit. Was going to pull it apart to check the condition and go with the newer Banks Monster Ram with different style heater and a stock grid heater delete. Need my heater in Canada.
I have had my 2014 ram 2500 since Feb 27 2014, I have had 0 issues with anything, taken care of the recalls, but no other issues, love my truck as you, keep up the videos
Same with me, mine runs so good it's scary
Add me to the list. 2014 3500 SRW. Running great at 104k.
Well sir another subject that I would never have thought of if I was in the market for a ram and you were selling I would definitely buy yours I appreciate the info and the details.......keep it up
I appreciate that! No I'm keeping mine for now
I just picked my 2017 Ram 3500 from the dealer yesterday. My truck has 49000 kms and it had the exact problem you described. My check engine light came on two days earlier so I went directly to the dealer, they couldn't look at the truck at that time so they made an appointment to bring the truck back. I was told the truck was okay to drive as long as the check engine light wasn't blinking. The repairs were done to the grid heater and the truck is working fine now.
I had never heard of this problem and that it could cause major problems with the engine. I would strongly recommend doing the "jiggle" test! It could prevent major problems in the future.
Thanks for the video, Dan.
Thank you for this information. I am troubleshooting a no crank clicking issue. Even after new batteries, and starter.
I am going to check out in the morning. I had left the key on my 91 d 250. I was not familiar with intake heating or the solenoids relays. Apparently ground wire had gotten damn hot. Trying to locate where problem is currently escaped my thought process. Any knowledge advice from you would be greatly appreciated.
This just happened to my company work truck. That's the only explanation that I can find. The bolt settled in my #6 cylinder and started ticking. Took it to my mechanic and he found a bolt in #6 cylinder. Thank you for your video it helps my conclusion.
Same thing just happened to me on my 2017 with 47xxx miles. My private mechanic put his camera in the #6 cylinder and took a pic of the beat up piston.
I dropped the truck off at the dealership last week and waiting to hear back for the warranty.
Thanks for this video. I just can't believe that Cummins would have this design. I'll be doing the wiggle test regularly.
Awesome video the only problem we're having with our 2014 is communication from the turbo
thanks for the vid had no idea about this! i laughed hard with the" that wasnt appropriate" comment
On mine the other bolt inside the grid heater was fried, thank God I just found it before it fell in the engine. I recommend pulling your intake horn and checking it if you have a lot of miles
thanks for info since i travel gravel country roads and now they are full of ruts and rough going
Great video and thank you for the information
Great video! I have and would delete many things but there ain't a chance that I would delete my grid heater and I don't have a clue why anybody else with good sense would either with the exception of a race ONLY application where that LITTLE bit of air flow difference may make a difference. The same goes for removing the stock (GREAT) factory air box and going to an after market cold air kit.
Great video again Marion. My 2018 2500 Mega keeps giving a "Battery Saver Mode" message and I've read that this grid heater may be the root cause but often misdiagnosed by techs.
My 17 Ram 6.7 with 20K displayed the battery saver mode last week for the first time and I believe it was from it sitting outside over night in the 20° weather. About 10 hours later the message went away.
Normal if cold outside. They do so to prevent blowing up cold battery.
In all seriousness, I woke up at 4:00 a.m. thinking about this grid heater bolt issue again as my Monster Ram air intake sits new in the box waiting for install whenever I get around to it. Until I watch this video, I really had no idea what the actual problem with this grid heater bolt situation was about. I had no idea that a person could just do a jiggle test to check on it now and then. If I had done that I would have saved myself the $900 for the Monster Ram air personally. I just don't use the truck or challenge it by heavy towing enough to warrant the $1,000 Monster Ram but since I have it I might as well put it on :-) thank you so much for posting this video and you're very detailed explanation of what's going on. I thought the bolt was just vibrating off. I didn't realize it was a arcing situation causing it to melt away
Thank you, Marion, for this video which saved the engine on my 2016 Ram 3500. I just inherited it a few weeks ago from my dad who took excellent care of it. Just under 50K miles and the CEL came on, I used dad's code reader and found the P2609 code so researched Cummins forums, which led me here. A positive jiggle test scared the hell out of me so I had it towed in for repair. My mechanic didn't recommend a delete of the heater so I'm having the stock grid heater replaced. $1,200 vs who knows how many thousands for a new engine. I've never owned a diesel truck and am not mechanically inclined at all but I hope I can follow your video to disconnect the wire from the solenoid so I don't worry about this in the future.
Yea, mine disconnected also. Do it at the passenger side battery terminal. The red wire. Glad you saved the engine. This is unfortunately too common and Cummins/ RAM should address it.
@@MarionBlair does this mean you now recommend disconnecting the grid heater?
For just under 1k you can get the Banks Monster Ram part that is supposed to eliminate this threat, and provide better air flow. Would be great to have Marion's opinion on that part.
@@MarionBlair Hi Marion, thank you for this great video!. I wonder if your disconnect point at the battery post will trigger the DTC independent of the starting period, because the solenoid would not be energized, is not better to disconnect it from the solenoid output bolt?, also if a in line switch could be installed between the batt. and the solenoid, to enable the grid heater just in extreme cold conditions...should be a 215 amps. one?
The Banks Gen 2 grid heater is the best coarse of action it does come with a heater that takes the place of the grid heater.
That’s what I put on my 2017 2500
Nice tutorial! Thanks!
Wish I would have seen this earlier. This issue took out my engine while full time RVing. The truck is a 2013 2500 and had 106,000 miles at the time. It cost me about 20k for a full engine replacement, was stuck in Utah for 6 weeks.
wow, so sorry.
very nice explanation
Thank you brother for your recent video on the wiggle test. Looked at one of your videos from last year recently and I'm about to get into hot shotting and of course we'll be in colder climates trying to sleep in the truck so are you saying don't idle overnight if I want to increase the longevity of my engine? Does the highway miles, 10 hours at 60 plus miles an hour, help negate damage done during idling overnight or just if I got to idle change the oil more frequently?
Wow, thanks for making this video.
With the heating and cooling process it will eventually loosen. Just like frost heave on a fence post. It's just something to checkout on your PMCS. A little Army lingo. Thanks.
Are you the voice of the Clear Eyes commercial from a few years back?
Just kidding! Thanks for the great videos Sir!
Ha, most think I'm Bob Ross
Howdy all! I previously asked the question if this applied to the 5.9 as well. I’m happy to report that this is not applicable to the 5.9 engine. I figured I’d put this comment in here in case any other newbies like me had the same question. Thanks to Marion for putting this information out there!
Thanks for the info!
Thanks I was wondering the very same thing. I just baught a ram 2006 3500 6speed. Don't need any negative surprises. One thing I've learned is that solenoid REALLY draws that amperage down when I first start her up.
You should get your grid heater checked. I think it's every 60K miles.
I just had some new injectors installed and my grid heater was cracked.
New one went in.
Awesome video
Had my grid heater deleted (and then some) for over three years now. This is just another issue I'll never have to worry about. 👍
I'm working my way toward doing the same thing eventually
Me too if I can get out of komifornia
Register it in Imperial county, it’s a no smog check county
Yea or make really good friends with the emissions tester. I lived in Ventura for 8 years in the 80's and they were doing exhaust test back then on the gas engines.
bayonne How would I go about this? Live in Riverside County. Need a address down there somehow? Thanks
thanks for the video, very informative! Just got a CEL with the code P0542 "Intake air heater A circuit high". Performed the jiggle test, thankfully she's tight!
Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you
fantastic information.
very informative, thank you!!
So, it's probably best to just 86 the whole grid heater while pitting in a better intake. Put a different preheat for the intake manifold and wire it to an auxiliary switch. Turn it on for 15 seconds before you start it and let it run another 10sec then shut it off. Done, no more worry.
Great video
Just wanted to say thank you for posting this up. I checked my 2013 2500 with 108k miles and the stud was loose as could be.
Pulled the grid heater out and the nut and bottom part of the stud broke off in my hand. No doubt they would've failed in a few thousand miles and wiped out the engine. This should be something everyone should check out when buying a used 6.7 truck, and probably follow up on once a month.
Yes, thanks, I've had several comments about this.
Thank you very much good info
Interesting information.
I'm about to delete my grid heater with the Banks kit...I'm in northern NJ so if it gets cold enough to need it I will just plug in the block heater. That grid heater restricts so much air flow. I'm doing the Banks elbow at the same time. Nice video.
Sweet, I love the Banks stuff. I just bought the Idash, My next video is going to compare the intake ducting wih and without the baffle. ha. Should put most to sleep. I'll eventually do what you are doing.
Marion Blair I love your videos, plenty of solid information, don't let the haters bother you. If they had any brains they would have there own RUclips channel and getting paid themselves. Cudos to you brother! I enjoy them. Thanks for the hard work you put in to make them. And Happy Easter.
This is my first diesel so all the info is very very appreciated I will be checking I have a 2014 2500 by the way person in the picture is not me using my girls account.......lol
I’ve owned quite a few Cummins trucks. Never heard of this until it just happened to me. 76000 miles. No warning no check engine light. Bolt went thru smashed the valves into the piston and killed the turbo. $24000 in parts alone waiting to hear back from warranty. I will be posting a video shortly. Dealer Mia diagnosed it as a bad injector.
Any update?
$24000 ? For parts? That has to be a misprint. That price would total the truck.
@@duckdog38 it would not total a truck that books 40k. It’s a 16 3500 dually this happened on total bill came to 28000. Luckily I was under warranty still.
@@georgeramsey2827 yes Chrysler paid for it. Came out to 28000. Just an FYI Chrysler doesn’t not cover injectors. They covered the one in that cylinder because of a covered item caused it. But original diagnosis was going to be out of my pocket. I actually bout an injector and replaced it and still had the issue immediately so I went further into diag
@@fknbossfabworx1067 wow! Glad for you that it was covered! That is outrageous. We better watch those connections. I wonder how quickly they burn up once they get loose.
I’ve accidentally not let the grid heater cycle before starting it on cold days. It so rarely gives me the wait to start coil on the dash, not like an older diesel. It shuddered and barked a little, and too a couple more cranks over but it started OK. I’ll check for wiggle in that every so often just to be sure. Not gonna lose any sleep over it.
No, it's very rare or RAM would have changed it by now.
I haven't read all the comments but maybe others have mentioned it. The wire you mentioned to disconnect you called a ground is actually the 12v wire heading to the grid. Maybe you just mispoke. Disconnecting it should be safe and will break the circuit. You mentioned the two wires coming from the pcm. One should be 12v when it calls for preheat, the other should be a ground and I'd imagine it's grounded all the time but don't know for certain.
Yea, don't know how I said it but that what I meant.
Well done once again. I enjoy your content and seeing how all your gadgets work. My 17 Tradesmen is getting factory remote start kit added Monday......finally. Does the remote start wait for “Wait to start” grid heater to do its business or is it set on a timer? That’s part of the reason I opted for the Mopar kit versus aftermarket kits that had timers and additional work to get parking lights and such to function on remote start. I have to think once the sales code is added to VIN the BCM will have some features that aftermarket kits replicate through hard wiring.
Thank you . Yes on remote start it will wait for the grid heater, but if you're in the truck you can more or less bypass the initial grid heat.
I know my dealer might be different, but I was wondering what the cost was for that?
Chris De Leon are you asking about bypassing grid heater or adding remote start? They quoted me $660 - $1000 at local Middle TN dealers. The 2017-2018 2500s and probably others have to be auto trans, have keyless entry, and immobilizer. RAM states 1.2 hrs to install but nobody I spoke with could do entire job in that amount of time, more like 2-4hrs. I ordered at Allmoparparts.com for $238 off their site, installed myself. That part could’ve been a hell of a lot quicker had I known how the C1 connector came off the BCM module under the dash. The gray lever will pop it off which instructions don’t mention. Add the hood latch switch to plug per instructions and plug back in. I managed to get semi local dealer agree to program two FOBs that come with Mopar kit for $125. Well long story short I left disappointed, everything took programming wise but truck wouldn’t start. Their parts guy gives me the part number I already purchased and installed online. They doubted I connected the one wire correctly and assumed I had the wrong kit. Parts guy quoted me $324 for same kit and said it didn’t say anything about a hood latch and that it came with a WIN module. Wireless Ignition Module. I was getting livid for trying to skimp and save then I’m headed home and realized my low fuel light turned on literally as I turned into dealership that morning. Added diesel. Remote start works like a champ now. It’s funny the dealership had all but condemned my stuff, tech didn’t notice low fuel message or didn’t put two and two together. Oh well I got it all done for less than they would’ve sold just the kit for. They only charged me $100 cause they didn’t think it worked and took it easy on me. I called Service Manager and offered to pay original price cause I made a bonehead mistake even though his guys were flat out wrong. He was cool, they were typical dealer grade help. Nuff said. Some guys have gotten way more from their dealers, I didn’t buy my 2017 from place I took it to this AM. FYI I suspect older models have more parts with their kits so maybe some of what they said applied to those years.
Another awesome video!
What are you shooting in 1080 or 4K.
What camera are you using
What computer are you using to edit
1080 - Canon 80D
I built the computer ASUS Z270 motherboard with an i7 7700K. I'm clocking it 15%.to about 4.8 gig/hat .. envidia 1080 geoforce FTW. SDD HD's. 32 ram.
Today my grid heater and air intake manifold was replaced with the Banks Monster Ram and wow, just in time! The mechanic gave me the old parts and the stud on the outside was gone and the bolt and nut underneath was only being held by gummy soot. The bolt had broken off on the outside who knows how long ago! I feel very lucky to say the least. My 2008 Ram 6.7 has 257,000 miles and I am hoping for many many more.
Wow!
And now that I think about it, my grid heater dash indicator light still comes on during cold morning starts, but I don’t see the voltage gauge changing at all. There was a time when the gauge would move significantly during grid heater startups.
This morning the temperature here in north Alabama was in the 40s so the new grid heater in the Banks monster ram air intake manifold was tested for the first time. I’m happy to report that the heater worked perfectly and the voltage gauge moved accordingly and the dash and headlights dimmed right on cue like they used to.
No telling how long I’d been driving this truck with a completely destroyed grid bolt/nut literally held in place by sticky soot. So lucky.
Great Video Marion.
Got a question: Will it still throw a code if the Red Wire at the Battery is disconnected and removed?
If I was going to disconnect, that seems like a good place. Remove that red wire completely.
Hi Bayonne, Mine threw the grid heater code when my solenoid went out in 2016 but I don't remember the exact circumstances. It might not if you start right away before the PCM realizes the solenoid isn't energizing. It's worth a try. That would be the best place to disconnect it. I think you can get by without a code if you disconnect at the solenoid ground side but it may be the same effect. I'm going to play with that this week and see what happens. I know the grid heater cycles after the engine starts depending on the temp. That may be what caused the code.
This just happened to my 2017. There is another pickup in the shop for the same thing. Bolt went through engine. New motor on its way
It just happened to my 2019 with 60000 km. I’m told the engine needs to be replaced. Now I’m waiting to hear back from the dealership on the warranty procedure.
Thanks Marion, Happy New year to you and your family. Please don't take this the the wrong way, I do appreciate the information but everytime I see something new like this on the 6.7l Cummins I get worried. Seems like there's a lot too stay on top of. I love the Engine, I love the Truck but it's potential problems that crop up such as this, is where I start thinking, maybe I should have stayed with a gas Truck. I pray it's a Rock Solid Platform. I know one thing, it's a Joy to drive on the highway. Thanks so much let me know if you decide to come down to Florida, if you do I'll send my contact info.
It will be ok Ed. It will.
@@sumnerkinney2166 I'm sure it will, I do think the RAM/CUMMINS owners are a great folks. Thanks so much for your kind words.
Thank you Ed, I certainly understand. I think we all have those emotions from time to time when we see things like this but believe me this is very very rare, there are trucks running around with 300,000 miles plus that's never missed a beat
Gas engines have their own problems and live a shorter life.
@@givnofuchs5742 Yea, nothing's perfect. If you don't need torque and fuel economy when towing, a gas engine will do just fine. The EPA has hurt the diesel engine reliability for sure.
Great work...! WEB full on Be Esss //// this was very well done. I appreciate your time.
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls 👌 God Bless Y'alls 🙌 🙏 I'm going to delete mine
Marion, I have a 2014 Ram 6.7L. Today, it was 30 degrees outside. When I went to start the pickup, I was ready to wait for the glow plug light to come on and then turn off (like I've done for 7 years). However, the glow plug light only came on for, literally, 1 second and then turned off. I tried to start it and it did start, but it was a rough start. Any advice?
It sounds like the solenoid is bad (or PCM isn't telling it to energize) or the grid heater isn't coming on. Take a look at the grid heater bolt and make sure that thing passes the jiggle test. Solenoids are usually the culprit from what I've seen. If you've got an ohm meter, you can check the coil for continuity.
Hey Marion, I just posted a video to show what my grid heater bolt looked like when I took my intake apart. I’m very glad I elected to delete the heater. I’m from Louisiana also, I don’t think it does us any good down here.
Mine's been disconnected for years. I'm usually starting in my garage but have had a few freeze temp starts with no problem.
Marion Blair if yours has been disconnected since new, I bet you will be A-OK, but if someone is ever near it while doing something to the engine, i think it’s worth deleting for better air flow. The ICT billet plate I bought was $70 and then $14 worth of gaskets from Orielly’s.
@@johnblevins897 Yea, not a bad idea. thanks.
I just found out today my engine is shot from this grid heater bolt issue. #6 cylinder and piston damage. 2013 With 115,000 miles. Meticulously maintained. However didn’t see this video in time. BEYOND disappointed.
Sorry. RAM / Cummins should deal with this
I wonder how much temp rise they achieve with a few seconds of electric heat that makes starting engine easier? It must have some kind of temp monitoring as I’ve noticed some colder mornings take longer than others.
On another note have you done anything on greasing the double Carden unjoints? I see a decal mentioning it on my truck but don’t see a zerk anywhere, not even the grease needle type. How the hell is anyone supposed to grease a sealed unit? I’ve located it on older Rams but not seeing one on my 17. Any ideas? Thanks for the replies Marion.
Took me three oil changes before I finally found the hole. It is just a tiny hole drilled in the Carden joint. No zerk fitting. You need a needle grease tip. It is on a weird angle so look closely, it is there.
That’s totally believable. They would do something like that. Thanks man.
Did you disconnect it from taking the wire off relay going to grid heater? Have you had any check engine light from it? I still want my remote start to work!
I took the wire off at the battery, so if it touches ground, nothing will spark. The remote starter will still work.
I don’t want to add any hysteria here but I have been bit by a similar issue with Ram/Cummins that occurred several years ago. I purchased a new 1995 2500 and put about 120,000 miles on it. One day I popped the hood to check out a burning oil smell. To my horror I saw oil coming out of a large crack in the top of my timing chain cover. My engine had suffered a debilitating blow from the dow pin of death! Crap like this can and does happen. A perfectly maintained and operating engine can be turned into a boat anchor because of some crappy 10 cent part. My grid heater is unplugged at the solenoid. I am happy to report that it did pass the jiggle test. My truck is a 2014 model.
Yes unfortunately, I think the dowel pin issue went away with the 6.7 not sure
Those 12 valve Cummins engines were KNOWN for that dowel and pin coming out. Much more common than this ever will be. Replace the timing cover and you were back on the road. Didnt take out the engine
@@robophobic3716 I've got a 2014 also, do you get codes with it disconnected?
Does it get codes with it disconnected?
Deleting my grid heater next week. 👍💪
Good move, I've had mine unplugged for years.
I should’ve clarified my comment, can I disconnect it from the battery on the passenger side rather than disconnecting it at the relay switch down below?
Marion sorry if this has already been asked, but do you think having an EGR system in these trucks is contributing to or actually causing this problem?
ahahahahah - lawsuits happen -- My first motorcycle back in the 70s got 112 MPG -- Yu tell me what has happened -- Russian Mobsters have taken over this country - they are called russianpublicians - now "everybody" is on board for the under the table money's - and making vehicles complicated cuts out the back yard mechanics altogether - even if they own a shop ! -- Ram sued Cummins for the rights on the engines that have - Now even Cummins cannot work on or talk about their Cummins engines in ram trucks - how's that for Mobsters - anyway - the heaters have nothing to do with the emissions to my knowledge - cold weather easy starts is all it is for - mine comes on even at 32 degrees - which is not very cold - they claim it helps with wear and tear - HUH ? ! -
No, the EGR is not the problem. It's either loose from assembly or gets loose. I disconnected mine.
Hopefully it stops at the turbo but likey some pieces will get past. And that jiggle joke was funny!
Grid heater is after the turbo, right before intake valves, so like he said, if a piece of metal falls off, it will make it's way into a cylinder
I LOVE MY CUMMINS
Diesels & Driveways me too, I’ve got a 2013, very good truck, and a very good engine!
Everyone talks about deleting the grid heater but what about us folk up in Canada where it gets to -50°c ? I’d like to have a heater of some sort. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Hey Marion, great video. How many miles on the truck? Any issues thus far and do you plan to delete at all? Thanks
I've only got 38,000, but yes I'm trying to decide whether I want to delete eventually or not
Young man who grew up with my sons owns a diesel shop. He says delete at 100,000 latest. I will likely follow his advice.
The sirens in the background (3:30) made me reminisce of growing up in NYC.
My 2014 stopped pre heating all together. Even at 32F when the start button is pressed, it cranks immediately. The outside temp gauge and coolant temp gauge read properly. Would this bolt issue cause the system to bypass the start delay?
Did you ever figure out why your truck stopped pre heating? My 2014 is now doing this. Thanks.
Marion have you heard of the grid heater solenoid failing in the on position and destroying the electrical system?
I haven't heard of that. Plenty fail, mine did however they usually fail open (contacts). There is a fusible link on the cable coming off the battery, I suppose that's designed to protect a complete melt down.
@@MarionBlair That makes me feel a little better. Thanks.
Great video Marion....as always.
Have you had any issues with your turbo actuator? P003A, P00AF, or P0046
Exhaust brake quits working and tone of turbo changes.
No no issues with the turbo. Thanks
I would try disconnecting the exhaust pressure sensor, they can make the turbo think there's too much pressure or cause too much back pressure on the engine or vice versa
Came across this video because we currently have a 2016 3500 that we took to a workshop because of this very problem.
When we arrived we saw another Ram 3500 in the same model with half it's engine torn out. Called the number on that truck to talk with the owner and asked what the issue was. "Some grid heater bolt fell apart, the dealer states it's a freak thing, one in a million, never happened before."
We were shocked because that was word for word the same explanation we got, even with the "one in a million, never happened before" part.
So we started asking around turns out that in a community of 350 K, one in a million event happen all the time to Ram owners!
And I'm not talking about a community with 350 K Rams, but total population!
This issue is far more common than Ram or Cummins admit! And is only going to get worse with age. Our vehicle has less than a 100 K km on it or 60,000 miles
Where do you live? I’m wondering if this has much higher failure rates in very cold climates due to the heater cycling more?? I’m in Texas and have never heard of it happening.
I unplugged One wire on each solenoid coming from the pcm so it wouldn’t close the solenoid and drain My batteries. I only make short trips usually. Had no idea it could belt the grid heater bolt and destroy the engine. You don’t need a grid heater for the Cummins they are only for emissions. My trucks a 97 12 valve I’ve done the Killer down pin fix. I’ve had two 12 valves. My 94 automatic the dowel pin moved out a couple mm. My 97 with a manual transmission had not moved out at all. I’m guessing because the automatics rev higher and cause more vibration.
Could be. I agree, it's not needed.
My buddy’s truck with 2013 120,000km had it melt off and went into cylinder 6. Tore it up really bad, we swapped the whole motor out.
Yea, I've had mine disconnected all through the winter. But I'm in louisiana. Cummins/Ram needs to address this.
Didn't I see in a more recent vid of yours that you had in fact disconnected the grid heater wire?
It's been disconnected for years, don't remember when.
My 2020 RAM s in the shop for this very thing so it does happen. Its been there for 6 days now "waiting on parts".
Thanks for the feedback. Did it get into the cylinder?
Happened to me. 2013 cummin. Spent 5k rebuilding the motor for a 50 cent bolt and washer going into cylinder 5 and 6. Talk about a wtf moment. Just driving down the highway and instand knocking.
Getting the truck re-tuned afterwards and the shop had 4 other truck with my same year have that same catastrophe he had worked on.
I say just plug in the truck and delete the grid heater before it's too late
2013 with 70k
Same thing happened to me. Took out cyl 6
What if you were to disconnect the hot leads from the passenger side to the grid heater would that work, would that eliminate the danger of the grid heater having a problem?
Yes, the red fusible lead that goes down to the solenoid from the passenger side battery. Just tape or tie wrap it out of the way somewhere. Thanks.
It’s called a wiggle test
Not a jiggle test
It’s in the Cummins diagnostics charts
So if you disconnect the solenoid, you’ll get a code everytime you use remote start?
Only when it's very cold and require a good bit of heater. Disconnect at the passenger side battery. Makes no difference to the PCM.
This just happened to my truck two days ago. The nut is in my engine right now. The power wire to the grid heater is super loose like I could almost pull the wire and isolater off. 2013 152000 miles.
What ever became of your truck? Mine's in the shop now for the same
my 2014 6.7 4500 Ram has code P0542 Intake Air heater i check with volt meter engine running has power on heater but keep cutting off the power and coming back while the engine is running should be like that?
Normal when temp below 59 deg. F for a minute or so depending on temp.. I would disconnect it at the passenger side battery if you have voltage all the time and figure out the problem. The IAT sensor is what controls it.
My truck will start as it gets chilly without the heater. But it cranks a long time. Gets below zero.. forget it. If you live in Wyoming/Colorado/Montana/Idaho etc… you have to have a grid heater
Ok, Is that with the block heater also?
I want to disable my grid heater. Is the easiest way to disconnect the red lead at the passenger side battery?
Yes that’s it. When you start your truck, don’t wait for the grid heater, just hit the start button. That’s avoid a code if it’s really cold.
What's that test called again?
Tiggle jest
Yea my check engine light came on ....the code 2609.... I've been driving since Nov.... its pretty loose and I have to fix it tommorrow at the dealer....I don't trust them and my truck is still under warranty....only has 88000 km....I wonder is there a up grade that can be done by the dealer?
Like the Bank s system?
Grid heater failure on my 3500 2018 at 17000 miles. Only indication was a check engine light.
Well at least it didn't trash the engine?
What do you think about adding a disconnect switch under the hood? Only turn it on if and when you find yourself in a location that you might actually need it. Love the inappropriate humor. Lol.
thanks Dennis, yes, I think that's a good idea. Can't hurt. Worse case is it throw codes but If you put it on the line between the solenoid and the grid heater, and you go straight to start without waiting for the PCM to realize the grid heater isn't on, I bet you'd never get a code and it would start down to the negative temps.
Hi, I thing the in line disconnect switch is a great idea...but, where a 215 amps. in line switch for that big cable can be found?
There are enough post on this one video stating they have had this problem to justify a proper repair from Ram. When the repair is possibly 24000 dollars then once is one to many when you get bit.
How are them Michelin defender tires holding up?
Yes, there doing excellent. thanks
Recently installed a set thanks to Marion Blair smooth as butter compared to the factory Firestones.
Is there a fuse for it that can be removed and if so does it throw a code
I don't see a single fuse for it but it would throw a code without the solenoid energizing. Unplugging one of the solenoid connections would do the same as pulling a fuse. once had a solenoid burn out and it throw a code. The best way IMO is disconnect it at the battery. When you start it, go straight from acc to run or it'll still throw a code in cool temps.
If anyone could help me further understand. So once the grid heater is disconnected I no longer need to wait for it to cycle and I can immediately start the truck ?
Right, don't wait or it'll probably eventually throw a code.
I need help my truck smoke a lot when is cool weather is code is saying is that heater should I delete it ?? Or fix it
Delete, ha
So is there a fixate help prevent an issue in the future..?
We'll see, Personally, I don't there's enough of them to warrant a recall or anything like that. I'm working on a solution, don't know if it'll work but we'll see.
Marion Blair maybe a real weld .. 🤔