I use a Beam style Torque wrench (also known as pointer style) for torque values that low. So much easier to control and you can watch as you approach desired torque instead of waiting for the click and hope it's not too much.
Thank you very much for this video, I am dismantling the plate of my SLK 230 R170 from 1997. I am looking for the filters...Hello from Normandy (France)
Point of correction, the shaft you have shown at 04:07 is not for the oil pump's but for the reactor's! The oil pumps is the 3rd one with notches, connecting when fitting in your torque converter!
great tutorial and you explained that slipping between 3rd and 4th gear is normal? I have an ML 270, the gearbox goes perfect, no jolts, excellent progression when cold and hot, the only flaw is the 3rd to 4th gear slipping, sometimes it's not much, other times it goes even 500 rpm out before going into 4th gear then everything is ok, knowing the problem is when I change gear, I lift my foot and then accelerate again, new oil and filter, how can I fix it? Thank you
Normally in car running the oem ecu and tcu. The ecu should cut torque when shifting 3-4 gear. And the slip would be minimal. When have slip like 500rpm is a sight of worn out plates. Or pressure not reaching fast enough or not enough pressure. This will indicate also dirt or worn out parts.
Great video! I can't seem to find the check valve in my 722.6 valve body. Did I loose it or is it possible some versions don't have one? Would you know the part number?
I just did an engine and trans swap from another vehicle and apparently did not test drive the donor car with enough "spirit". When driving gently everything works as it should, but if I put the hammer down I get the following • I have issues. 1-2 shift will slam (not even sure if the slam is a shift because I instantly lifted and so it of course upshifts due to letting off the throttle and being at a higher speed. • 2-3 shift flashes RPM a bit • 3-4 shift flashes RPM a lot • 4-5 shift flashes RPM a lot • Downshift kickdown flashes RPM as well • Once in gear trans holds with no slipping at all even under heavy acceleration at low RPM up steep hills, so definitely no slipping once into gear I replaced the valve body (as well as all the solenoids) with another used one (don’t know the history) and put a brand new conductor plate on it as well as brand new filter and conductor plate connector. Also swapped out TCU from donor car. No change - symptoms stayed virtually the same. I am not crazy about what the color of the original fluid was. There was a bit of a black film lining the bottom of the pan. Any ideas? This is in a 1999 W210 E300TD and has a stage 2 tune and HX35 turbo with 3" exhaust so the power is much higher than original.
A original 300td box with your set up van not handle your modifications so i would change the gearbox for a BIG NAG box. That is a 580 box. Your now have a 330 box. Also with the oem tcu with you setup this is not ideal better you use a good tcu tune or go with a ofgear.dk tcu The problems your having i would start opening the valve body and checking the springs a valves in there look if everything is clean a nothing broken
Pretty confident it is not the valve body, even though I was convinced it was due to the symptoms. I replaced the valve body with a completely different one (but with a brand new conductor plate on it) and the symptoms were identical. No change at all. Seems much too coincidental to have all the exact same issues with every single gear change. Making me think it might be the pump??? The motor I pulled (because of a pre-chamber failure) had the exact same tune on it and the trans connected to that motor performed just fine. Wish I would have swapped my old existing trans onto this motor during the swap but I just assumed this one would be better because it had half the miles. 330 should be sufficient for this existing tune. Motor I pulled and now have on a stand will be getting the full treatment and will have much more power so it will need more gearbox. So, I will plan to go a different route then, but not sure I want to consider the ofgear. I have read many posts of people being much less than happy with that controller. That will probably take me down the road of doing a manual swap.@@JMSpeedshop
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a C180 COMPRESSOR 203. Mine doesn't change the auto gears; it just goes on i gear. The speedometer is not working. The temperature gauge is playing up and down. Even the small manual is not working. When I put on drive on the dash, it shows neutral, but after a while, it will go to drive. Can it be the gearbox control module? How many liters of atf oil should one put in the sump?
@leonardzhou5530 as far as i know . When you put it in gear in D without tcu connection i should have a limp.mode so.always run in a gear but not shift up
Hi nice video - 1 question can you change the connector at 14:08 without draining the transmission fluid out - I had a look at mine and its not dry so id like to change this connector asap and before I change the transmisson oil? - thanks
Same problem for me the car won't shift only emergency mode I changed conductor pl and solenoids is good . The car still won't shift so is it the body The code is P0715
Nice video thanks! Hey i have exact same transmission I just did the conductor plate only and noticed I missing those yellow plastic covers on top of solenoids, how important are those? Previous owner must have taking them off. Thanks
On early transmission these yellow cover where not on yet. The came later exact year i dont know. I had a 1996 722.6 in my w201 V12. This transmission had also no covers on the solenoids
Imam problem na w203 200cdi 2005g 722.6 zamenio ulje i filter, TCC solenoid pritiska..aito nece da Salta greske nema na Dijagnozu,kad ga stavim u R stoji N krece se u unazad D stoji u mesto???? Sta moze biti Problems????
I open my it's exactly the same, but the only thing I found was that the plastic on the speed sensor it's cracked, will this afect performance? My car it's dosen't change from first gear. Any thoughts? Thanks for the video
i have this transmission and it seems that the torque convertes is not locking fully in any gear. sometimes in 5th. I replaced the converter and liquid but does the same. maybe a bit better. what else could I check? some orings leacking pressure? some selenoids? Many thanks
how is that lockup working? Electronically or mechanically activated? can that be checked with the box on the car and only the valvebody removed? do you know any seal kit to replace once the valvebody is off? @@JMSpeedshop
In March year 2025 will be auto oil change out for my MB722.6 transmission as previous owner had change it in year 2020. Oil from dipstick is still looking pink in color when blotting onto a white paper. No issue so far by this transmssion but it will soon be a 18 years old transmission. Since I had intended to keep the car for another 5 years I think it is best to plan to change out the conductor plate and maybe put in sonnax valves. This car had never did any sort of towing. 😂😂😂
So. If you have this transmission and it doesn't want to shift out of gears when driving, where is the problem? Conductor Plate? What tells the transmission to shift?
The tcu tells when to shift. The signal will go to the solenoids. So if the tcu does it work correct. The problem.is most.of the time in the conductor plate and valve body
When running on ofgear ecu this will give more oil pressure on 3-4 flare. So only do this when running the ofgear tcu. Not sure what will happen when running stock tcu
Man i saw the video and thanks a lot I do have a question 3rd gear and 4rth is slipping so the hole is the solution how can u help me cuz mechanics are asking about 1000 so thats why imma do this myself
If the clothes are slipping the plates are worn out. Or there is not enough ook pressure on the plates. This can be a lot of issues. Like blocked lines. Or not enough oil or broken valves in the valve body .
@JMSpeedshop thank you for your response, Here is the main problem, On the diagnosis, under the Automatic Transmission Unit, it says No Fault Codes. Which could mean transmission has no problem. But the car isn't moving. It shows the selection on the instrument cluster on the dashboard, but the car is hardly moving, and if it moves very slow as if it's rather rolling.
Hi, thank you for the video, i got a question on my transmission (2011 jeep grand cherokee), i found a Shift Lever Shaft seal leakage, and if i am right, the only way to remove the seal is disassemble the gearshift detent and shift lever shaft, and take the seal out. and i need to loose the gearshift detent from the shift lever shaft first, and take the shaft out, finally take out the seal. Does my idea make sense? and do I need the special socket like some other videos show that screw the socket inside the seal, then pull it out?
If we talk about the same seal. Then you can not change it under the car i think because the shaft is to long . About a special tool. I rarely use special tools there is always a way to do it with tools you already have. Here is a look from a Benz forum. I personally never change out this seal so i can not go in to details www.benzworld.org/threads/how-to-lower-722-6-transmission-a-few-inches-and-replace-leaking-shifter-seal-without-removing-transmission.3060057/
@@JMSpeedshop ah, that is a really good point, I realiezd the constrained space, but i didn't realize it is not enough to remove the shaft. thank you so much
Hi Should i change the tcc solenoid and 1,2-3.5 gear solenoid? I am experiencing some jerk in 1-2 shift and low rpm between changing gears … car feels like no power. W204 c200 kompressor
Your compressor is ok?. I bought a dashboard mounted OBD2 Lufi XF. Can display MAF vs MAP vs throttle body position vs RPM and many more parameters. At 3000rpm and nearly at 0psi for MAP the MAF reads at 40 to 42g second. At +7.5psi@3000 rpm MAF can reads up to 60g/second. Positive pressure read out by MAP is useful to know that bypass flap for supercharger is closing or is in fully closed mode. By MAF on very hard flooring of gas pedal can bring up MAP to +8.5psi. This I had to do occasionally to quickly merging into freeway traffic. At hot idling in D mode & AC off the MAP is at -7.3psi vs MAF 4.7g/g at 740rpm. Any leak in the vacuum hoses can drop the MAF value & at the same time causing rough idling. 😂😂😂
O did not use a valve body repairkit If your run a stock ecu and stock car you should not have a problem for 3/4 gear. This solution only work with the ofgear.dk tcu
Sir how can get a jold of you. I'm struggling with a p2767 code. I changed the conductor plate, but still same code. Grand Cherokee diesel 2008, 270k km. I haven't open the valve body. What else should I look at. Some are telling me that the new conductor plate is a bad one... amazon.
P2767 is the speedsignal. Did you also changed the connector socket holder in the gearbox where the plug is going in. And the old one was it wet of oil. If it was wet . Check the connector on the transmission tcu. If it is also wet here it is possible that oil came in the tcu and can also cause problems. But you have to buy oem conductor plate or. The febi biltstein plate. Febi biltstein is the same as oem. This is what i use
Thank you sir. I did buy a complete assy. including connector gasket and filter... all from amazon. On starmobile speed sensor always read 8000rpm when vehicule is not moving.
I just saw your answer ... I currently have the tcm in hand... very complicated to access on jeep crd. Had to remove steering colum. Tcm looks dry from the outside. Do I have to open tcm to check?
Google or RUclips tcm oil problems and you find more info about this and also how people find it out. But if the connector on the tcm is dry then you should not have this problem
Ottimo video complimenti 👍 ti devo fare una domanda ho una Mercedes classe w202 250 TD ho cambiato elettronica ho fatto il tagliando olio filtro perché non cambiava le marce adesso dopo un anno mi dà problemi quando si riscalda avvolte cambia le marce fino alla quarte marcia e non va piu alla quinta poi in salita non va più il meccanico mi dice che il convertitore di coppia possibile togliere convertitore di coppia sesa scaricare l'olio voglio cambiare il convertitore ti ringrazio se mi rispondi 👋
I wasn't so lucky I disassembled my valve body to find chunks of roller bearings and ferrous material in the pan and stuck on the yellow magnet body of the conductor plate
@@JMSpeedshop they are awesome in tight spaces. they are like surgical tools. they are so good in places where there is no room.. smooth as silk. if you do not mind spending some money i think you will fall in love with them.
Thanks brother🙏🙏🇷🇼from Rwanda
I use a Beam style Torque wrench (also known as pointer style) for torque values that low. So much easier to control and you can watch as you approach desired torque instead of waiting for the click and hope it's not too much.
Thank you very much for this video, I am dismantling the plate of my SLK 230 R170 from 1997. I am looking for the filters...Hello from Normandy (France)
Everything is available from the dealer
Point of correction, the shaft you have shown at 04:07 is not for the oil pump's but for the reactor's! The oil pumps is the 3rd one with notches, connecting when fitting in your torque converter!
Bedankt dat je de moeite neemt om dit met ons te delen.
Geen probleem 👌
great tutorial and you explained that slipping between 3rd and 4th gear is normal? I have an ML 270, the gearbox goes perfect, no jolts, excellent progression when cold and hot, the only flaw is the 3rd to 4th gear slipping, sometimes it's not much, other times it goes even 500 rpm out before going into 4th gear then everything is ok, knowing the problem is when I change gear, I lift my foot and then accelerate again, new oil and filter, how can I fix it? Thank you
Normally in car running the oem ecu and tcu. The ecu should cut torque when shifting 3-4 gear. And the slip would be minimal. When have slip like 500rpm is a sight of worn out plates. Or pressure not reaching fast enough or not enough pressure. This will indicate also dirt or worn out parts.
Great video!
I can't seem to find the check valve in my 722.6 valve body. Did I loose it or is it possible some versions don't have one? Would you know the part number?
Thank you for this video. Very methodical and careful.
I am planning to change the conductor plate on c230 2005
Any tips?
Thank you. 🙏
Just like in the video . There is not much to it . Change the connector for a new always
I just did an engine and trans swap from another vehicle and apparently did not test drive the donor car with enough "spirit". When driving gently everything works as it should, but if I put the hammer down I get the following
• I have issues. 1-2 shift will slam (not even sure if the slam is a shift because I instantly lifted and so it of course upshifts due to letting off the throttle and being at a higher speed.
• 2-3 shift flashes RPM a bit
• 3-4 shift flashes RPM a lot
• 4-5 shift flashes RPM a lot
• Downshift kickdown flashes RPM as well
• Once in gear trans holds with no slipping at all even under heavy acceleration at low RPM up steep hills, so definitely no slipping once into gear
I replaced the valve body (as well as all the solenoids) with another used one (don’t know the history) and put a brand new conductor plate on it as well as brand new filter and conductor plate connector.
Also swapped out TCU from donor car.
No change - symptoms stayed virtually the same.
I am not crazy about what the color of the original fluid was. There was a bit of a black film lining the bottom of the pan.
Any ideas?
This is in a 1999 W210 E300TD and has a stage 2 tune and HX35 turbo with 3" exhaust so the power is much higher than original.
A original 300td box with your set up van not handle your modifications so i would change the gearbox for a BIG NAG box. That is a 580 box. Your now have a 330 box. Also with the oem tcu with you setup this is not ideal better you use a good tcu tune or go with a ofgear.dk tcu
The problems your having i would start opening the valve body and checking the springs a valves in there look if everything is clean a nothing broken
Pretty confident it is not the valve body, even though I was convinced it was due to the symptoms. I replaced the valve body with a completely different one (but with a brand new conductor plate on it) and the symptoms were identical. No change at all. Seems much too coincidental to have all the exact same issues with every single gear change. Making me think it might be the pump??? The motor I pulled (because of a pre-chamber failure) had the exact same tune on it and the trans connected to that motor performed just fine. Wish I would have swapped my old existing trans onto this motor during the swap but I just assumed this one would be better because it had half the miles. 330 should be sufficient for this existing tune. Motor I pulled and now have on a stand will be getting the full treatment and will have much more power so it will need more gearbox. So, I will plan to go a different route then, but not sure I want to consider the ofgear. I have read many posts of people being much less than happy with that controller. That will probably take me down the road of doing a manual swap.@@JMSpeedshop
Hi when i drive at low speed it feels like the gearbox brakes and relese brake and relese!what could be wrong ?pressure leak?
Hi Johan. Ik mis het gedeelte waar je de grote connector demonteert. Niet moeilijk maar wel handig als je 't een keer gezien hebt.
Oke. Ja zal het volgende de keer meenemen 👍
Hi, thanks for the video.
I have a C180 COMPRESSOR 203. Mine doesn't change the auto gears; it just goes on i gear. The speedometer is not working. The temperature gauge is playing up and down. Even the small manual is not working. When I put on drive on the dash, it shows neutral, but after a while, it will go to drive. Can it be the gearbox control module? How many liters of atf oil should one put in the sump?
It depends on the car but you should get the car started and there is a level for 20c. And 80c. So that is how you check
@@JMSpeedshop for the gear failure, can it be the gearbox control module?
@leonardzhou5530 as far as i know . When you put it in gear in D without tcu connection i should have a limp.mode so.always run in a gear but not shift up
Thanks vary much I appreciate you a lot sir !!!!!!!!!!!! Valuable information I subbed and liked .your a good man! Thanks!!!!!
Thanks for the support 👍
what is the weight of this transmission with or without torque converter?
Hi nice video - 1 question can you change the connector at 14:08 without draining the transmission fluid out - I had a look at mine and its not dry so id like to change this connector asap and before I change the transmisson oil? - thanks
No you have to drain the oil
Same problem for me the car won't shift only emergency mode I changed conductor pl and solenoids is good . The car still won't shift so is it the body
The code is P0715
Nice video thanks! Hey i have exact same transmission I just did the conductor plate only and noticed I missing those yellow plastic covers on top of solenoids, how important are those? Previous owner must have taking them off. Thanks
On early transmission these yellow cover where not on yet. The came later exact year i dont know. I had a 1996 722.6 in my w201 V12. This transmission had also no covers on the solenoids
@JMSpeedshop ! thanks for the reply, mine is 2006 e55 amg and it has the blue upgraded solenoids so that's goog I guess.
At 2006 the sure must have the caps from factory
Imam problem na w203 200cdi 2005g 722.6 zamenio ulje i filter, TCC solenoid pritiska..aito nece da Salta greske nema na Dijagnozu,kad ga stavim u R stoji N krece se u unazad D stoji u mesto???? Sta moze biti Problems????
I open my it's exactly the same, but the only thing I found was that the plastic on the speed sensor it's cracked, will this afect performance? My car it's dosen't change from first gear. Any thoughts? Thanks for the video
yes can be there are 2 speed sensor on the conductor plate. if there is a crack this is not a good sign.
i have this transmission and it seems that the torque convertes is not locking fully in any gear. sometimes in 5th. I replaced the converter and liquid but does the same. maybe a bit better. what else could I check? some orings leacking pressure? some selenoids?
Many thanks
There is a lock up control on the valve body this is activated so if something is stuck it will contant put pressure through and lock it
how is that lockup working? Electronically or mechanically activated? can that be checked with the box on the car and only the valvebody removed? do you know any seal kit to replace once the valvebody is off? @@JMSpeedshop
Search for ATSG. 722.6. Service manual
I was told about an anti theft issue with the conductor plate and valve body.. does this come in to play when doing this?
Yes. if you mean that i remove the plil lock
In March year 2025 will be auto oil change out for my MB722.6 transmission as previous owner had change it in year 2020. Oil from dipstick is still looking pink in color when blotting onto a white paper.
No issue so far by this transmssion but it will soon be a 18 years old transmission.
Since I had intended to keep the car for another 5 years I think it is best to plan to change out the conductor plate and maybe put in sonnax valves. This car had never did any sort of towing. 😂😂😂
So. If you have this transmission and it doesn't want to shift out of gears when driving, where is the problem? Conductor Plate? What tells the transmission to shift?
The tcu tells when to shift. The signal will go to the solenoids. So if the tcu does it work correct. The problem.is most.of the time in the conductor plate and valve body
U said drill bigger hole to 3-4.th gear on mechatronik plate, where and why d u want to drill it to be bigger?
if u run on original ecu, with bigger hole, what will be happen?
When running on ofgear ecu this will give more oil pressure on 3-4 flare. So only do this when running the ofgear tcu. Not sure what will happen when running stock tcu
Fantastic Video - Thanks
Leuk feitje; deze transmissie lag ook in Porsches en Jaguars. Zo goed was (is?) deze transmissie!
Ja zeker ook in Chrysler en jeep. Denk dat dit nog steeds de sterkste en betrouwbaarste automaat is van mercedes
Man i saw the video and thanks a lot I do have a question 3rd gear and 4rth is slipping so the hole is the solution how can u help me cuz mechanics are asking about 1000 so thats why imma do this myself
This solution will work best of you run a ofgear TCU
@@JMSpeedshopno mine is stock i dont know what should i do it is slipping i spent alot and kinda broke rn
If the clothes are slipping the plates are worn out. Or there is not enough ook pressure on the plates. This can be a lot of issues. Like blocked lines. Or not enough oil or broken valves in the valve body .
Please, where can I get that manual hardcopy for a 722.9 7G-tronic Mercedes benz. Car is moving despite no transmission fault codes
The are online do some google search
Google atsg 722.9
@JMSpeedshop thank you for your response,
Here is the main problem, On the diagnosis, under the Automatic Transmission Unit, it says No Fault Codes.
Which could mean transmission has no problem. But the car isn't moving. It shows the selection on the instrument cluster on the dashboard, but the car is hardly moving, and if it moves very slow as if it's rather rolling.
Oke. Personally i dont have experience with the 722.9
Hi, thank you for the video, i got a question on my transmission (2011 jeep grand cherokee), i found a Shift Lever Shaft seal leakage, and if i am right, the only way to remove the seal is disassemble the gearshift detent and shift lever shaft, and take the seal out. and i need to loose the gearshift detent from the shift lever shaft first, and take the shaft out, finally take out the seal. Does my idea make sense? and do I need the special socket like some other videos show that screw the socket inside the seal, then pull it out?
If we talk about the same seal. Then you can not change it under the car i think because the shaft is to long .
About a special tool. I rarely use special tools there is always a way to do it with tools you already have. Here is a look from a Benz forum. I personally never change out this seal so i can not go in to details
www.benzworld.org/threads/how-to-lower-722-6-transmission-a-few-inches-and-replace-leaking-shifter-seal-without-removing-transmission.3060057/
@@JMSpeedshop ah, that is a really good point, I realiezd the constrained space, but i didn't realize it is not enough to remove the shaft. thank you so much
This is what i found online that there is not enough space
@@JMSpeedshop thank you, i ll check it, it seems i have more space then the Mercedez, but I am not sure it is enough or not on my Grand cherokee.
Oke. Good luck 👍
Hi
Should i change the tcc solenoid and 1,2-3.5 gear solenoid? I am experiencing some jerk in 1-2 shift and low rpm between changing gears
… car feels like no power.
W204 c200 kompressor
I have same issues but if it manages to change to 3 it's a smooth change till the last gear what was the issue with urs
Your compressor is ok?. I bought a dashboard mounted OBD2 Lufi XF. Can display MAF vs MAP vs throttle body position vs RPM and many more parameters. At 3000rpm and nearly at 0psi for MAP the MAF reads at 40 to 42g second. At +7.5psi@3000 rpm MAF can reads up to 60g/second. Positive pressure read out by MAP is useful to know that bypass flap for supercharger is closing or is in fully closed mode. By MAF on very hard flooring of gas pedal can bring up MAP to +8.5psi. This I had to do occasionally to quickly merging into freeway traffic.
At hot idling in D mode & AC off the MAP is at -7.3psi vs MAF 4.7g/g at 740rpm.
Any leak in the vacuum hoses can drop the MAF value & at the same time causing rough idling. 😂😂😂
awsome video, would i want to drill that hole to 4mm for my w202 c43 amg and 2000 sl500 if im running stock tcu? or should i upgrade the tcu as well?
also can you send link for the valve body repair kit?
O did not use a valve body repairkit
If your run a stock ecu and stock car you should not have a problem for 3/4 gear. This solution only work with the ofgear.dk tcu
@@JMSpeedshop where did you buy the screens?
The filters you mean ? The where in the parts kit incl. Febi 100254. But you can also buy them seperate
Nice, what size DASH did you use for the oil cooling lines!
8
@@JMSpeedshop DASH8 to what if you do not mind...
@LaTeamPrep from transmission to the oil cooler and back to transmission
@@JMSpeedshop @JMSpeedshop Sure but what I mean is what thread goes into the gearbox side, is it M12 or 14
@LaTeamPrep dont know that out of my head . You have to check the oem banjo bolt. Is metric for sure
Another excellent tutorial.
Thanks 👍
Love the videos, 722.6 is a hell of a transmission, when you get time can you do a review on the v12 Bmw 760li (2009-2015 f02 model). Thanks
If i have a car available near me i can have a look
HELLO JMSpeedshop! what do you think some SONNAX Kit??? TY
Never used it. Sorry
i have the same thing gearbox , cant drive, when it put into D mood .
Sir how can get a jold of you. I'm struggling with a p2767 code. I changed the conductor plate, but still same code. Grand Cherokee diesel 2008, 270k km. I haven't open the valve body. What else should I look at. Some are telling me that the new conductor plate is a bad one... amazon.
P2767 is the speedsignal. Did you also changed the connector socket holder in the gearbox where the plug is going in. And the old one was it wet of oil. If it was wet . Check the connector on the transmission tcu. If it is also wet here it is possible that oil came in the tcu and can also cause problems. But you have to buy oem conductor plate or. The febi biltstein plate. Febi biltstein is the same as oem. This is what i use
Thank you sir. I did buy a complete assy. including connector gasket and filter... all from amazon. On starmobile speed sensor always read 8000rpm when vehicule is not moving.
Oke. What is it reading when the plug is disconnected .
I just saw your answer ... I currently have the tcm in hand... very complicated to access on jeep crd. Had to remove steering colum. Tcm looks dry from the outside. Do I have to open tcm to check?
Google or RUclips tcm oil problems and you find more info about this and also how people find it out. But if the connector on the tcm is dry then you should not have this problem
OG 722.6 conductor plates have bare copper traces.
yes some of them . early years where more bare the the later models
Ottimo video complimenti 👍 ti devo fare una domanda ho una Mercedes classe w202 250 TD ho cambiato elettronica ho fatto il tagliando olio filtro perché non cambiava le marce adesso dopo un anno mi dà problemi quando si riscalda avvolte cambia le marce fino alla quarte marcia e non va piu alla quinta poi in salita non va più il meccanico mi dice che il convertitore di coppia possibile togliere convertitore di coppia sesa scaricare l'olio voglio cambiare il convertitore ti ringrazio se mi rispondi 👋
I don't have the solenoid covers, it's crazy right???
the time will broke it, so it is not crazy
That depends on the manufacturing year. Early models dont have coers
I wasn't so lucky I disassembled my valve body to find chunks of roller bearings and ferrous material in the pan and stuck on the yellow magnet body of the conductor plate
That is not amg of beginning
@@JMSpeedshop what would turn trans fluid grey after 155k mi?
Clutch material
How did you remove dip stick tube ?
Just pull it out .
Mine is sealed
Has this gearbox been used on a slr?
1:09
Comes from a w210 E55.
Yes. But a 722.6 is been used in a slr
nice upload! btw does Muter mean nut in dutch? :)
Yes. In German Mutter=mom.
In Holland similar. 😉
@@kraut-performance ok in scandinavian countries mutter means NUT .. it would be fitting name for a mechanic.. :)
Muter. It is with 1 T. But mom is Holland moeder. 😃
😎
But Muter itself has no real explanation in Dutch not that i know of
Changed the valve body
Connector
Circuit board
Bought another gearbox
Still no solution
I guess these transmissions stay dead
Did you check the TCU. If it is wet of oil and the wiring front the transmission to the tcu
did you checkc out the Gearwrench xp120 ratchets?
Yes . Just online. Quality looks good
@@JMSpeedshop they are awesome in tight spaces. they are like surgical tools. they are so good in places where there is no room.. smooth as silk. if you do not mind spending some money i think you will fall in love with them.
I will keep it in mind . Thanks
those conductor plates are cheap. I had to do one last year. I bought an extra one in case.
Yes that is why i changed it but the old one does not look to bad
@@JMSpeedshop Speed sensors can fail even at low klm. but after 17 years or so.
Good to fit a new one while you are in there.
That's why .