What that capacitor pack does is help eliminate intermitant voltage “sag”. When you make a heavy demand for amperage such as heavy throttle with a thirsty motor and turning with a digital servo, the voltage from your battery may not be able to keep up. So you tire a capacitor or two in your case parallel to the battery. The capacitors store voltage and give it up when there is a sag in voltage. It avoids a quick “brown-out”. There are other capacitors you can add to your reciever. I have had to use these on my off-road buddies with digital servos as they are thirsty little buggers. These are sometimes refered to as glitch brsters.
correct and its due to his incessant habit of quickly jabbing the throttle while running ,,its cause by quick intermittant demands and releases of power from the esc...he does it several times in the video
Glenn.... After 38 years in the Hobby, you just taught me something!! 😲 I've got a 1060... It ran for 10 seconds and stopped! The Red Light flashes, and nothing. No output. That was 4 months ago and I didn't Bin it, in case anyone found a cure. I'm truly poor, and can't afford new ESCs. 😭 Sucks. I just don't know if it's fried, or if there's anything I can do. But when you said "limp mode", I first thought "brownout"... But what I saw in the part where you ran the first one, that was something I've never seen before! Carmine ✈🚂🚙
I soldered a BEC onto mines to use in my crawlers and they work great. Smooth throttle control, cool running, 100% water proof and strong drag brake. I bought some to use on old Tamiya bashers so will see how i get on with them using both 2s and 3s lipo
I've had excactly that issue, I recognised it right away when seeing your car get slow. I swapped motor and ESC twice, same issue persists. But this, this is really good info! Thanks for taking the time to document it, now I need to go do some shopping.
Thanks for the video. I'm having a similar problem with my 880. I have tried reprogramming the ESC and tested all of the electrical components with no success. I was beginning to think I was crazy.
Hi, thank you for this , this is a great fix, just so you know I just put 2 1000fu 25volt caps inline and did the same trick. Sad you have to fix someone else problem.
Glad I have seen this message, just bought a 12t motor for it to go in a 2nd hand strada. New to rc world so not a clue why, thought it was either getting too hot (not cutting out) or nimh battery wasn't good enough to run the 12t. Upgrading to 2s lipo so will do this mod at same time. Great advice and 1 new sub 👍
I only have this limp mode issue on 6 cell nimh. 7 cell nimh and lipos work fine. I assume the 6 cell nimh voltage drops as its running. I have 2 new traxxas 6 cell packs and both do it
I thought about doing this for the same reason glad to see it works. As far as i know it's part of the lipo cut off mode it goes to limp mode when it thinks the voltage drop is to low but then runs forever in limp mode was really annoying when it was in my crawler it would never drain the battery low enough to hit the actual cut off in my crawler so dropped it in my wl car and it's still annoying so i will be doing this thanks for the video now i know it will work.
Just in case anyone reads this, the knock off one has red and black motor wires and if you look just to the right of the little instruction panel that tells you what the jumpers do, you'll see a little opening on the Genuine branded and RTR version but the clone doesn't have that opening. For what it's worth, I've got on ok with the 3 fakes I have but anyways, that's how you tell them apart from what I can gather.
Thanks for this. Been ‘Googling’ for a solution and came across your video. I only subscribed to your channel a month or so back, so obv missed it when you released it originally. Going to give this a go now as fed up with my 1060 cutting off at 4v per cell!
If you put a Deans connector counterpart on your connector while soldering, it keeps it from letting the tabs move around if you accidently use too much heat.
😁👍It probably made the voltage not dip as much... when running a hot motor or over geared car it can draw a lot of current and if your battery packs are not good enough to supply the amperage to the electronics the voltage can drop and cause those glitch power drop outs. Did you ever try another lipo a higher C rated one?
Shen RC Yes buddy tried various batteries and motors, it a common issue that’s talked about a lot on the Facebook group. It sucks really but at least now I have two working speedo’s 👊🏻
Thank you for your help, unfortunately after purchasing one of these I had my fingers crossed and hoped that it would work, it works a little longer than before but still goes into safe mode. I’m banging my head against the wall and thinking about buying a brushless motor Combo as I find that this is a lost cause. Hopefully someone else has better luck👍🏻
Finall drive Oh what a shame 😞 You’re the second person now to have tried it and not worked! That’s now five 1060’s that have been done and only three of them were successful! It’s such a strange issue and very frustrating. I really need to mod my 2nd 1060 and test it out 🙏🏻
Not had this on a 1060 but I have a Hobbywing 10BL120 sensored brushless that at first I thought had an occasional intermittent fault, which became more regular until eventually it became unusable. It does exactly the same 'safe mode' thing you demonstrated. I run an 8.5T with a 5000mAh nimh or an 8.4V nimh. My guess was the batteries couldn't provide the required discharge current (what is the C rating on a nimh anyway?) & I needed a 2s lipo (I have no lipos yet). So I just set it & the motor asside for now. This esc has the 2x 16V 470mF cap module connected to the battery leads already. Humm. Does this mean I need a replacement cap module or the 4 cap module upgrade? I don't know but I think I shall try both & see what happens! Better than leaving it in a cupboard Wow amazing! Great tip, cheers mate!
Had the issue with a cheap ZEEE brand New 2S 50c lipo but not with a good quality Gens Ace 2S 50C lipo ! Seems it’s the effective drain capacity that matters
Quality control on these Hobbywing WP-1060-RTR must be pretty bad. I bought two cars that both had this ESC and they both did this. I contacted the car manufacturer and they sent out a new ESC under warranty and it did the same. I bought the kit with the 4 capacitors on it and installed it on one of the cars and it works great. Just need to do this to the other car now.
I finally got together a Hobbywing Quickrun 1060, some decent 2s 4000 30C soft pack lipos, charged properly and thought….. we’re all good to go in my Lunchbox here; hotdog wheely machine time….. ran it….. and it went as limp as * after a minute. Thank you, thank you, for making this vid (and all your other vids and content for what it’s worth). I’ve got a module D in the post….. fingers crossed it fixes my power problems I’ll let you know in a day or so.
I can't believe how simple it was to fix my 1060. Just leave the jumper on nimh and protection mode won't kick in. Using this on a979b with 3s 100c 1500mah. Good God is it quick. The damn tires almost pull off the rims.
TAMIYA Legends, yeah I spent hours racking my brain trying to find out what's going on. So, I'm like I'll just put the jumper back on nimh like it come out of the box. I was like unbelievable!
can someone help me. im having an issue about HW 1060 low voltage cutoff. Motor stops/doesnt work, ESC red light blinking. Im so frustated to solve this. So the problem happens, whenever my car is about to go interval of objects, (slow speed), the motor suddenly doesnt work. i read the manual, it says whether the battery voltage too low (below 6v) or check the cable solder onto motor. (just as you know, i did purchase some new batteries, but it doesnt solve my problem) also funny thing, everytime i cut the motor cable, and solder again, it works...but the problem happens again. by the way, im using 2s lip bttry 7.4 2000mah. so, this capacitor module kit does help? or should i get brushless motor? or should i buy new ESC?
I have a WLToys 12402-A that came with a 550 motor. It is a HUGE boost in speed from the old 540 motors. I installed a 1060 and other components to change it to separate components. Just as a visual, without a GPS speed module, the 1060 has knocked back the speed by a good 25% or more - it sucks!! Maybe the Cap Module is what it needs.
Thank you for your video. I'm trying to get back to life my old Tamiya Grasshopper of 1985. I then buy different part (NIMH 7.2V 6800mAh + motor 35T + Quirun1060 + dumboRC-X6) and when I start it, and go forward the car starts and then stop and then start, ... It seems that the whole power supply is cut for some milli second and then comeback all the time. Do you think it could be the same problem? thanks?
I've got a 1060 brushed esc from my friend but it can't run reverse, when I push the transmitter trigger to reverse it's run forward and when I pull the transmitter trigger to forward it's run forward. Anybody know where's the problem?
Your jumper for mode on the esc. F/B/R. FB/RV? Or since you didn't say what radio your using, the presets on your Xmiiter? You may have throttle/trigger reversed on your Xmitter. Some Xmitters can be set to "Double tap" for brake. Sounds like that Mate.
Could it have been the amp draw from the motor and servo? I have one 1060 and about 3-4 1080 esc. I use the 1080 in my crawlers because of the programability. I may use the 1060 in the attack fighter I have just ordered. I have not decided yet if I will go brushed or brushless.
i found out why it keep dropping down in power if u put a 550 motor to this the motor will drain the power faster out of the esc thats makes it slow down too thanks mate
did you change out the tamiya plug on the other unit as well? Cause the tamiy plugs could give you problems as well, specially once they get a little worked out. check temp of the plug as well.
hello. it says on the packaging 10BL60. so the capacitor is for a brushless but we will install it in a brushed 1060 esc? please let me know. i have 2 unit of 1060 brushed esc and both goes to limpmode in any motor.
I have a 10BL60 sitting here new in the box, it doesn't have capacitors on it, is it going to have the same issue or is it different than the 1060? It's the brushed ESC that has the issue?
Man, wish I saw this before I tossed two of my 1060s in the trash! It's weird, I have about 7 of these in different cars and two went to this limp issue. I tried everything: batteries, motors, temperatures, gears, etc. Then, when I swapped it out with another 1060 it ran fine. Oh well, live and learn. Other than this bug, the 1060 is a pretty good unit. My goto for all my brushed cars.
Is there a way to test these 1060 ESC'S with a multimeter to see if they are healthy or dead? Mine doesn't go into limp mode it just flashes red like it's not paired with the receiver/transmitter setup. I've paired them as per the manual but has done this since I connected a 3S Lipo to it (I didn't connect the balance lead into the receiver)
Would this only be going into Limp mode on a quick Motor? I'm just using a Tamiya Torque Tuned & 3300 Nimh.. Just ordered this ESC and was pointed towards your Video.. Now bit worried 🙈
Hallo there..lil bit wonderin..how about your 1060 condition wright now??is it still runnin properly with the optional hoop up capacitor??is it still do the job?coz ive allready read the hobbywing double cap manual..that hoop up was build for the erzun and quicrun family..tx in advance..keep healty and happy..regards
Ok, so iv just bought one of these but not fitted it yet. My question is, if its a known issue and Hobbywing sell a fix for it, why dont they send the fix out for free, fit the fix at the factory or just send it back?
The spec on the 1060 says; 2s lipo or 6nimh- 540 motor with greater than 12t or a rpm less than 3000. Going outside these specs ruins the capacitor over time. So, were you going outside those specs and the problem arose then or did you have this issue anyway? I ordered a 1060 anyway and I am not sure if I should modify it right away. Love your channel!!!
Thanks, I will order the mod prior to first run. P.s. I also ordered some custom decals from mci. awesome recommendation, under $10usd for top force!!!
Yeah I’ve done a couple now Tim, it’s not a 100% fix! Some guys have done it and it didn’t fix the issue 🤷🏼♂️ But mine were all good after I did it 😊👊🏻
same thing happen to me. im tired of low voltage cut off. motor suddenly stops!! and all i do is cut the motor cable, and re-solder to esc cable...everytime.. im so frustating right now
the damage to the esc is his bad habit of constant jabbing of the throttle while underway the capaciters make up for the incessant throttle jabbing ..so problem fixed ,,but the habit is not...it like jabbing the throttle pedal on a real car while driving ,,,something is going to ventually give out
wish i seen this before i got one mine is doing the same only got it coz everyone was saying it so good it's a crock of sh**t if you ask me and again it's only the 4th esc i've try'd to get my car running with looks like i'll haveto try the mod then!!
@@TAMIYALegends thanks for reply and I guess you've helped me confirm that, you cant. I solved my issue....I had my reverse endpoint set what i thought was perfect....turns out reducing reverse endpoint actually also reduces your max brake signal too. Crucial on a crawler
MAN I WISHED IT WORKED BUT FOR ME IT DID NOT WORK. RUNNING THE 1060 IN THE WLTOYS 144001 AND EVEN WITH THE CAPACITOR KIT WITH IT A MINUTE IT GOES INTO LIMP MODE
hi this is happening to me i put the cap on like u have done and still going to limp mode after 5 mins i then put the jumper to nimh battery and going good no limp mode did u change the ecs to nimh when using lipo battery i know u should not do this but have u tried this before putting the caps on? please try thanks let me know thanks u should have a donate button u help me out heaps ... worth thinking about
bruce benner Oh wow no that’s new to me buddy 🤔🤷🏼♂️. I’ll have to have a play with that next time 😊 I have Patreon set up and my email in the about section is my PayPal. Glad you found that 👊🏻
Hi big man , just brought another 1060 for my 12 t motor running a 2s lipo and keeps cutting out the one on my lunch box don’t do it do u think this is the problem with my car
I have old hbx bonzer, now the car has traxxas 12t 550 motor and Hobbywing 1060. It goes limp mode after 10sec, i did this repair with Hobbywing capasitor module and it did not work. Still goes to limp mode. :(
I just installed mine, it is really slow on reverse, it takes 2 to 3 seconds to react to reverse, when i adjust the forward throw on the control it moves forward just fine when i adjust it barckwards it wont move at all. I am frustrated 😫
@@TAMIYALegends yes i do. I tried it on another transmitter and receiver and same thing. I reversed it on the transmitter and its slow forward. I tried another motor and same thing. I switched the channels on the receiver and its still the same.
linlin lixin I don't know why but it's doin it when both pins are in correct. I has to sac the break for the time being. When I take out the jumper for it and leave f/r, reverse runs fast. Beats me.
Mine runs just fine for about a month, now it doesn't even recognize 2s lipo, no beep sound, no throtle! Motor is fine, checked by running direct to battery, any idea what's causing this? Is mine broken? led lit up when I push throtle, yet motor is not running! Somebody please help ...
I use those speed controllers they have motor rpm limit don’t go over it they will go into limp I’ve had this happen to mine that’s what I figure .Those speedos are really for mild modified motors but mostly stock .
BVRC They have a 12 turn limit buddy, but as I said in the video that has nothing to do with this issue, I couldn’t even use a basic Sports Tuned motor before I found this fix 👊🏻
Hi, I was wondering if you could answer a quick question. The Module Kit in your video has two Capacitors, well i found the exact same one or it gives me the option to have 4 instead of two capacitors, I just want to know would this be ok ?
Tony MacDonald Yes I debated buying one of those too, unfortunately I have no idea if it will work or if it would have a detrimental effect on the performance 🤔
It's so easy to open the casing of the 1060 and I would recommend soldering direct onto the board and not splice open the wires. Frankly, that's the lazy method and doesn't look neat at all.
What that capacitor pack does is help eliminate intermitant voltage “sag”. When you make a heavy demand for amperage such as heavy throttle with a thirsty motor and turning with a digital servo, the voltage from your battery may not be able to keep up. So you tire a capacitor or two in your case parallel to the battery. The capacitors store voltage and give it up when there is a sag in voltage. It avoids a quick “brown-out”. There are other capacitors you can add to your reciever. I have had to use these on my off-road buddies with digital servos as they are thirsty little buggers. These are sometimes refered to as glitch brsters.
correct and its due to his incessant habit of quickly jabbing the throttle while running ,,its cause by quick intermittant demands and releases of power from the esc...he does it several times in the video
Glenn.... After 38 years in the Hobby, you just taught me something!! 😲
I've got a 1060... It ran for 10 seconds and stopped! The Red Light flashes, and nothing. No output.
That was 4 months ago and I didn't Bin it, in case anyone found a cure. I'm truly poor, and can't afford new ESCs. 😭 Sucks.
I just don't know if it's fried, or if there's anything I can do.
But when you said "limp mode", I first thought "brownout"... But what I saw in the part where you ran the first one, that was something I've never seen before!
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
I soldered a BEC onto mines to use in my crawlers and they work great. Smooth throttle control, cool running, 100% water proof and strong drag brake. I bought some to use on old Tamiya bashers so will see how i get on with them using both 2s and 3s lipo
I've had excactly that issue, I recognised it right away when seeing your car get slow. I swapped motor and ESC twice, same issue persists. But this, this is really good info! Thanks for taking the time to document it, now I need to go do some shopping.
Great fix...I was running my grasshopper 2 with the 1060 on 2s...kept doing limp mode...now its fixed
Oh know I’ve just brought a 17t motor as it kept going into limp mode on a brushed 15t motor, I wish I saw this video last week 😟👍🏻
Thanks for the video. I'm having a similar problem with my 880.
I have tried reprogramming the ESC and tested all of the electrical components with no success. I was beginning to think I was crazy.
Hi, thank you for this , this is a great fix, just so you know I just put 2 1000fu 25volt caps inline and did the same trick. Sad you have to fix someone else problem.
cazarakable
Excellent glad you got it fixed my friend 😊👊🏻
Capacitors?Mind your ESR. Equivalent series resistance
Great info! I just ordered a 1060 and didn’t know there was a problem with them. Now I’ll know what to do if I get the same issue.
Glad I have seen this message, just bought a 12t motor for it to go in a 2nd hand strada.
New to rc world so not a clue why, thought it was either getting too hot (not cutting out) or nimh battery wasn't good enough to run the 12t.
Upgrading to 2s lipo so will do this mod at same time. Great advice and 1 new sub 👍
Adjustable spanner trick! 👍 you’re never to old to learn something… thanks once again for your content
Thanks Glen! Just had a Hobbywing 1060 go into Limp Mode! Will order a couple up right away!
I only have this limp mode issue on 6 cell nimh. 7 cell nimh and lipos work fine. I assume the 6 cell nimh voltage drops as its running. I have 2 new traxxas 6 cell packs and both do it
I thought about doing this for the same reason glad to see it works. As far as i know it's part of the lipo cut off mode it goes to limp mode when it thinks the voltage drop is to low but then runs forever in limp mode was really annoying when it was in my crawler it would never drain the battery low enough to hit the actual cut off in my crawler so dropped it in my wl car and it's still annoying so i will be doing this thanks for the video now i know it will work.
Just in case anyone reads this, the knock off one has red and black motor wires and if you look just to the right of the little instruction panel that tells you what the jumpers do, you'll see a little opening on the Genuine branded and RTR version but the clone doesn't have that opening.
For what it's worth, I've got on ok with the 3 fakes I have but anyways, that's how you tell them apart from what I can gather.
Clever thing with the wrench! I hate soldering Deans as there's noting to hold on to :P
Thanks for this. Been ‘Googling’ for a solution and came across your video. I only subscribed to your channel a month or so back, so obv missed it when you released it originally. Going to give this a go now as fed up with my 1060 cutting off at 4v per cell!
My hobby wing 1060 esc came today all up and running thanks mate 💪🏽
CMW Chris woodward awesome 😎🚗💨💨
If you put a Deans connector counterpart on your connector while soldering, it keeps it from letting the tabs move around if you accidently use too much heat.
Thanks for this! Hoping to be well chuffed after following your advice!
That's too funny I could find that holds the thing I'm solding so I used a wrench as well and worked like a charm cheers brother
😁👍It probably made the voltage not dip as much... when running a hot motor or over geared car it can draw a lot of current and if your battery packs are not good enough to supply the amperage to the electronics the voltage can drop and cause those glitch power drop outs. Did you ever try another lipo a higher C rated one?
Shen RC
Yes buddy tried various batteries and motors, it a common issue that’s talked about a lot on the Facebook group. It sucks really but at least now I have two working speedo’s 👊🏻
Thank you for your help, unfortunately after purchasing one of these I had my fingers crossed and hoped that it would work, it works a little longer than before but still goes into safe mode. I’m banging my head against the wall and thinking about buying a brushless motor Combo as I find that this is a lost cause.
Hopefully someone else has better luck👍🏻
Finall drive
Oh what a shame 😞
You’re the second person now to have tried it and not worked! That’s now five 1060’s that have been done and only three of them were successful! It’s such a strange issue and very frustrating. I really need to mod my 2nd 1060 and test it out 🙏🏻
Not had this on a 1060 but I have a Hobbywing 10BL120 sensored brushless that at first I thought had an occasional intermittent fault, which became more regular until eventually it became unusable. It does exactly the same 'safe mode' thing you demonstrated. I run an 8.5T with a 5000mAh nimh or an 8.4V nimh. My guess was the batteries couldn't provide the required discharge current (what is the C rating on a nimh anyway?) & I needed a 2s lipo (I have no lipos yet). So I just set it & the motor asside for now. This esc has the 2x 16V 470mF cap module connected to the battery leads already. Humm. Does this mean I need a replacement cap module or the 4 cap module upgrade? I don't know but I think I shall try both & see what happens! Better than leaving it in a cupboard Wow amazing! Great tip, cheers mate!
Had the issue with a cheap ZEEE brand New 2S 50c lipo but not with a good quality Gens Ace 2S 50C lipo ! Seems it’s the effective drain capacity that matters
good fix glen!! that is one thing I have never installed on my electrics, Hope I never have too. LOL.
Quality control on these Hobbywing WP-1060-RTR must be pretty bad. I bought two cars that both had this ESC and they both did this. I contacted the car manufacturer and they sent out a new ESC under warranty and it did the same. I bought the kit with the 4 capacitors on it and installed it on one of the cars and it works great. Just need to do this to the other car now.
Bret Muckridge
It really is poor Bret, so many guys I know have had this issue 😞
Thanks for watching buddy 👊🏻
a good bit of info thanks for sharing
I finally got together a Hobbywing Quickrun 1060, some decent 2s 4000 30C soft pack lipos, charged properly and thought….. we’re all good to go in my Lunchbox here; hotdog wheely machine time….. ran it….. and it went as limp as * after a minute. Thank you, thank you, for making this vid (and all your other vids and content for what it’s worth). I’ve got a module D in the post….. fingers crossed it fixes my power problems I’ll let you know in a day or so.
….. AND…. it works…. !!!!! I really love you Glen…. kiss kiss…. mwah😘
Burgers,Dogs, Soft Drinks and Munchies from Signal Hill
I can't believe how simple it was to fix my 1060. Just leave the jumper on nimh and protection mode won't kick in. Using this on a979b with 3s 100c 1500mah. Good God is it quick. The damn tires almost pull off the rims.
Patrick Walker
Excellent I didn’t know that 😊👊🏻
TAMIYA Legends, yeah I spent hours racking my brain trying to find out what's going on. So, I'm like I'll just put the jumper back on nimh like it come out of the box. I was like unbelievable!
@@patrickwalker125 what kind of battery that u used when u change the switch to nimh..is it lipo or nimh??tx in advance..had a same problem here
Just tried that, car worked normal.... But battery ballooned right after use. Not a good solution
Can you still use 2s lipo on the nimh jumper?
That’s a great fix Glenn... lol it’s great to see my old blazing star kind of getting a run out on Tamiya legends!!!!. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Darren Grimmer
Pmsl 😂 I thought you might enjoy that 😂👊🏻
I do have to agree with you. The blazing star wasn’t the most attractive of body shells!!!
can someone help me. im having an issue about HW 1060 low voltage cutoff. Motor stops/doesnt work, ESC red light blinking.
Im so frustated to solve this.
So the problem happens, whenever my car is about to go interval of objects, (slow speed), the motor suddenly doesnt work.
i read the manual, it says whether the battery voltage too low (below 6v) or check the cable solder onto motor.
(just as you know, i did purchase some new batteries, but it doesnt solve my problem)
also
funny thing, everytime i cut the motor cable, and solder again, it works...but the problem happens again.
by the way, im using 2s lip bttry 7.4 2000mah.
so, this capacitor module kit does help?
or should i get brushless motor?
or should i buy new ESC?
I have a WLToys 12402-A that came with a 550 motor. It is a HUGE boost in speed from the old 540 motors. I installed a 1060 and other components to change it to separate components. Just as a visual, without a GPS speed module, the 1060 has knocked back the speed by a good 25% or more - it sucks!! Maybe the Cap Module is what it needs.
Nice easy and cheap mod. 💯👍🏻👍🏻
RC ModSquad
Thanks for watching buddy 👊🏻
TAMIYA Legends absolutely. I just picked up this ESC for a different car. I’m just trying to get an overview on it. Thanks for sharing.
Hi is the THW-1060 -rtr esc the same as the hobbywing 1060 setup
Thank you so much for this video, seems to have sorted the issue I was having
Excellent 😅👊🏻
Got one of those,,, works awesome
Would a capacitor that you install in an open channel on your receiver work the same way? I’m not comfortable with soldering that’s why.
Thank you for your video.
I'm trying to get back to life my old Tamiya Grasshopper of 1985. I then buy different part (NIMH 7.2V 6800mAh + motor 35T + Quirun1060 + dumboRC-X6) and when I start it, and go forward the car starts and then stop and then start, ...
It seems that the whole power supply is cut for some milli second and then comeback all the time.
Do you think it could be the same problem? thanks?
I have the same issue. Did you ever find a solution for your car?
Great vid.
I've got a 1060 brushed esc from my friend but it can't run reverse, when I push the transmitter trigger to reverse it's run forward and when I pull the transmitter trigger to forward it's run forward.
Anybody know where's the problem?
Your jumper for mode on the esc. F/B/R.
FB/RV?
Or since you didn't say what radio your using, the presets on your Xmiiter? You may have throttle/trigger reversed on your Xmitter. Some Xmitters can be set to "Double tap" for brake. Sounds like that Mate.
Ever figure it out?
Could it have been the amp draw from the motor and servo? I have one 1060 and about 3-4 1080 esc. I use the 1080 in my crawlers because of the programability. I may use the 1060 in the attack fighter I have just ordered. I have not decided yet if I will go brushed or brushless.
i found out why it keep dropping down in power
if u put a 550 motor to this the motor will drain the power faster out of the esc
thats makes it slow down too thanks mate
Could you of soldered the capacitor to the Deans connector with the battery wire? Would that work the same?
Congrats. Always so rewarding when there’s success. Got a 1060, but I haven’t noticed any issues so far. So ‘Limp mode’ just means that it slows down?
Nordic RC Visions
It’s some voltage cut off apparently, but the extra caps keep it from spiking under power 🤷🏼♂️
I do not have any technical/electrical knowledge, but it is strange with a brand like Hobbywing. But good job on fixing it ☺️
did you change out the tamiya plug on the other unit as well? Cause the tamiy plugs could give you problems as well, specially once they get a little worked out. check temp of the plug as well.
Schutt Rostig
Yeah I swapped them over to Deans on all my stuff now buddy 👊🏻
Will it run an 8 turn motor? I'm finding it impossible to find a brushed esc that'll run under 10 or 12 turn.
Does the length of the wire on the cap module matter? I have two 1060 esc, but I want the both esc to be as compact as possible.
hello. it says on the packaging 10BL60. so the capacitor is for a brushless but we will install it in a brushed 1060 esc? please let me know. i have 2 unit of 1060 brushed esc and both goes to limpmode in any motor.
Interesting job!
I have a 10BL60 sitting here new in the box, it doesn't have capacitors on it, is it going to have the same issue or is it different than the 1060? It's the brushed ESC that has the issue?
Mark G
Yeah I’ve not heard of it happening in any other speedo 🤷🏼♂️
@@TAMIYALegends Sorry, I didn't realize how old this video was. It showed up and I thought it was a new one. :)
Man, wish I saw this before I tossed two of my 1060s in the trash! It's weird, I have about 7 of these in different cars and two went to this limp issue. I tried everything: batteries, motors, temperatures, gears, etc. Then, when I swapped it out with another 1060 it ran fine. Oh well, live and learn. Other than this bug, the 1060 is a pretty good unit. My goto for all my brushed cars.
What battery were you using for this
Is there a way to test these 1060 ESC'S with a multimeter to see if they are healthy or dead? Mine doesn't go into limp mode it just flashes red like it's not paired with the receiver/transmitter setup. I've paired them as per the manual but has done this since I connected a 3S Lipo to it (I didn't connect the balance lead into the receiver)
josh blass
There probably is a way to electrically test it Josh, but I wouldn’t have a clue how to do it!
Sorry buddy 😞
@@TAMIYALegends thanks anyway mate. Same question goes for a receiver, anyway to test to see if it's fried other than trying a healthy one ?
josh blass
Tbh Josh, I’d try another one 😬
Would this only be going into Limp mode on a quick Motor? I'm just using a Tamiya Torque Tuned & 3300 Nimh.. Just ordered this ESC and was pointed towards your Video.. Now bit worried 🙈
Hallo there..lil bit wonderin..how about your 1060 condition wright now??is it still runnin properly with the optional hoop up capacitor??is it still do the job?coz ive allready read the hobbywing double cap manual..that hoop up was build for the erzun and quicrun family..tx in advance..keep healty and happy..regards
Typo..ezrun and xerun
ge ra
Hey 👋🏻
Yes I’ve done two and both are still going strong 🚗💨💨💨
@@TAMIYALegends great..tx for your information..gonna try it latter on and posted the result..manny tx
Ok, so iv just bought one of these but not fitted it yet. My question is, if its a known issue and Hobbywing sell a fix for it, why dont they send the fix out for free, fit the fix at the factory or just send it back?
👍
Great video, thanks! My car is slow on top speed, slower then others on the circuit. Do you think this help? Stay safe✌️👍👊👋
The spec on the 1060 says; 2s lipo or 6nimh- 540 motor with greater than 12t or a rpm less than 3000. Going outside these specs ruins the capacitor over time. So, were you going outside those specs and the problem arose then or did you have this issue anyway? I ordered a 1060 anyway and I am not sure if I should modify it right away. Love your channel!!!
Peter Renaud
No unfortunately they pretty much come like that, not all of them but a few 😬
Thanks, I will order the mod prior to first run. P.s. I also ordered some custom decals from mci. awesome recommendation, under $10usd for top force!!!
nice mate
Did you pop a cap kit on the ESC that "Limped" and go out and re-test it?
Yeah I’ve done a couple now Tim, it’s not a 100% fix! Some guys have done it and it didn’t fix the issue 🤷🏼♂️
But mine were all good after I did it 😊👊🏻
Tidy. I've got a 1060 in my Axial SCX10 that started behaving strangely so I'll get a cap pack and solder it in.
Any idea how to disable the low voltage cut off on this esc. So tired of half speed after 15 mins on a 2s lipo.
same thing happen to me. im tired of low voltage cut off.
motor suddenly stops!!
and all i do is cut the motor cable, and re-solder to esc cable...everytime..
im so frustating right now
the damage to the esc is his bad habit of constant jabbing of the throttle while underway
the capaciters make up for the incessant throttle jabbing ..so problem fixed ,,but the habit is not...it like jabbing the throttle pedal on a real car while driving ,,,something is going to ventually give out
wish i seen this before i got one mine is doing the same only got it coz everyone was saying it so good it's a crock of sh**t if you ask me and again it's only the 4th esc i've try'd to get my car running with looks like i'll haveto try the mod then!!
How can I adjust the brake % or do a reset on a 1060?
Oswalds Reef
That’s something I’ve never done on a 1060, tbh I didn’t know you could 🤷🏼♂️
@@TAMIYALegends thanks for reply and I guess you've helped me confirm that, you cant. I solved my issue....I had my reverse endpoint set what i thought was perfect....turns out reducing reverse endpoint actually also reduces your max brake signal too. Crucial on a crawler
MAN I WISHED IT WORKED BUT FOR ME IT DID NOT WORK. RUNNING THE 1060 IN THE WLTOYS 144001 AND EVEN WITH THE CAPACITOR KIT WITH IT A MINUTE IT GOES INTO LIMP MODE
Micro Drone Channel
Yeah since this video a few guys have said it hasn’t worked 😞
Put jumper back on nimh
Yeah I did the same and no luck
@@jtsn667 sorry to hear that. Mine goes to limp mode too. But when I switch the settings to NiMH and plug a Lipo evrythings good
hi this is happening to me i put the cap on like u have done and still going to limp mode after 5 mins
i then put the jumper to nimh battery and going good no limp mode
did u change the ecs to nimh when using lipo battery i know u should not do this but have u tried this before putting the caps on? please try thanks let me know thanks
u should have a donate button u help me out heaps ... worth thinking about
bruce benner
Oh wow no that’s new to me buddy 🤔🤷🏼♂️. I’ll have to have a play with that next time 😊
I have Patreon set up and my email in the about section is my PayPal.
Glad you found that 👊🏻
Dude, just put the jumper on him and it will not kick in. Just watch your voltage on the Lipo though
Nimh
@@patrickwalker125 hi thanks i out the lipo setting back but it drops down in power i do have a cap installed do u think i need 2 installed?
bruce benner I would remove the capacitor
Ok, so why didnt you just connect the wires to the deans ?
they say connect it closest to the esc for best performance not away from it
Now I’m worried, I just brought two 1060 off eBay 😱😱😱
1114mat
Don’t be, I believe this isn’t a common issue 👊🏻
TAMIYA Legends ok thanks 😊
Hi big man , just brought another 1060 for my 12 t motor running a 2s lipo and keeps cutting out the one on my lunch box don’t do it do u think this is the problem with my car
CMW Chris woodward I thought then1060 was only good down to 17 turn and advertised 20 turn. Is 12 turn not too low maybe
Oswalds Reef I think your right Oswald reef , I was king out my mind trying to sort it , I run a 17 now just about works well 💪🏽
I have old hbx bonzer, now the car has traxxas 12t 550 motor and Hobbywing 1060. It goes limp mode after 10sec, i did this repair with Hobbywing capasitor module and it did not work. Still goes to limp mode. :(
Same exact setup and issue
What is limp mode do to car
Ricky Goss
It’s when the ESC cuts out and goes to 25%
I just installed mine, it is really slow on reverse, it takes 2 to 3 seconds to react to reverse, when i adjust the forward throw on the control it moves forward just fine when i adjust it barckwards it wont move at all. I am frustrated 😫
linlin lixin
Hmmm 🤔
Have you got the two plastic jumpers in the right place for the battery and setup you want?
@@TAMIYALegends yes i do. I tried it on another transmitter and receiver and same thing. I reversed it on the transmitter and its slow forward. I tried another motor and same thing. I switched the channels on the receiver and its still the same.
linlin lixin I don't know why but it's doin it when both pins are in correct. I has to sac the break for the time being. When I take out the jumper for it and leave f/r, reverse runs fast. Beats me.
Mine runs just fine for about a month, now it doesn't even recognize 2s lipo, no beep sound, no throtle! Motor is fine, checked by running direct to battery, any idea what's causing this? Is mine broken? led lit up when I push throtle, yet motor is not running! Somebody please help ...
Quality !
I use those speed controllers they have motor rpm limit don’t go over it they will go into limp I’ve had this happen to mine that’s what I figure .Those speedos are really for mild modified motors but mostly stock .
BVRC
They have a 12 turn limit buddy, but as I said in the video that has nothing to do with this issue, I couldn’t even use a basic Sports Tuned motor before I found this fix 👊🏻
Great videos buy the way love your channel , and I’m glad you found the solution ,happy R.C.ing!!
Brendan Raymond
100% agree buddy 👊🏻
one day you might put a fast motor in one of those cars
I just done the same thing and didn't solve the issue....
Hi, I was wondering if you could answer a quick question. The Module Kit in your video has two Capacitors, well i found the exact same one or it gives me the option to have 4 instead of two capacitors, I just want to know would this be ok ?
Tony MacDonald
Yes I debated buying one of those too, unfortunately I have no idea if it will work or if it would have a detrimental effect on the performance 🤔
I can't see it hurting it, But I have ordered one and I will be trying it :)
I plan on using mine in an old H2 Hummer from radioshack.
This didn’t work for my 1060
unfortunately it doesn't work for me ... 😭
Same
It's so easy to open the casing of the 1060 and I would recommend soldering direct onto the board and not splice open the wires. Frankly, that's the lazy method and doesn't look neat at all.