Transom Replacement ~ Cutting The Fiberglass And Removing The Old Core
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Part 1 of a short series on how to replace a rotten transom on an older boat (specifically a Boston Whaler 25). Cutting away the fiberglass and removing the saturated plywood (Good times :-)
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You know man. I being a mechanic, detailer, paint correction, slight body work and paint. Now getting into rebuilding my 1985 checkmate. And I come across you all the time and even stuff I don’t need help with or interested in. You still pull me in, you do some of the best work, best explanations and genuinely seem to care and seem like a cool dude. There are “Social Influencers” and then there are dudes like you who take the time out of your daily living and Work to help others and take pride in what you do. More people like you is what I say. Cheers man and Stay Cool 😎
Agreed.
I second that ☝
I restored a 19ft BW Sentry and removed the transom similar to what you have done. I left a 4" flange all around the bottom and left and right side of the transom so I could feather the new glass back in and have a flange to tie it into. I used Coosa board for the core material. 1.5" thick so I laminated two .75" pcs and had overlapping seams as I pieced it into the cavity. A chainsaw was used to remove the wet wood. Dangerous and very nerve-wracking. It worked out and after a couple years no sign of delamination. Great video because I'd like to restore another BW similar to the first one.
FWIW Fein invented the oscillating cutter for cutting casts years before they branched into non-medical uses; the blade would cut plaster without hurting the patient. Great series!!
Andy, just found your videos in an online search. I am awestruck. Your knowledge, talent, patience, dedication to fine work are an inspiration. I've been an amateur woodworker and a boater for some 60 years, owned and loved many small craft. One of my 3 current boats is a 1959 Glasspar DelMar fiberglass 16 foot cruiser with cabin and v-berths. She's in good original condition complete with beauty marks, and has proven to be a very solid rig. Time has now taken its toll and the transom is getting soft and delaminating especially along the bottom and port edge. I noticed late last season that the transom is pulling away (back) from the left gunnel area by about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Watching your video series on the whaler transom, I realized that tackling the job is far beyond my skills, knowledge and tool set. Living in the desert southwest, good boat repair folks are scarce. The search goes on for a shop that could tackle this one. (original plywood transom has a distinct curve from the factory). I hate to take the old gal out of service, but it may be time to keep her on the trailer under cover, and occasionally climb in and sit at the controls to reminisce on the countless carefree hours spent at the helm. Thanks for a really enjoyable tutorial and I look forward to spending more time viewing your other projects.
I saw someone gave a thumbs down, really, I guess that person must be a master boat builder. Any how, I love your videos and taught myself how to fiberglass by watching you. I have done only poly and expoxy resins.
I like to think that they just got confused and hit the wrong button :-)
Hey Andy,
You inspired me to repair my pride and joy. I am pretty capable at most things and have never been afraid of "having a go" That's Australian in case you didn't guess. I began ripping out the rotten floor on my boat and discovered this afternoon that the transom has some rot as well. It looks like the job is a bit bigger than I originally planned. I am sweating on your videos to help me get the old girl back from the crypt.
Good on you mate.
Cheers,
Rusty.
Hi mate been watching your vids I'm a coachbuilder here in Scotland I'm currently on a transom for a little Mayland fishing boat. See how the wood that needed ground off you already have Fein multitool so buy the E-cut Carbide Pro blade for hard metals. See that specific blade it doesn't bend at all and it cuts like the proverbial. Until you use one on wood you don't realise you've been using the wrong tool. Another thing on boats that you want the E-carbide Pro blade on the Fein for is scraping up the silly paints people put on the sole of their deck. You cannot sand that stuff or grind it or it sands it into the GRP and need to clean the thing with acetone every fee minutes to get rid of the smearing. What to do is get a piece of mirka abranet 80grit and use that to clean the carbide blade of gunk and goo every 30secs or so. The blade justs peels it all off for fun once it gets hot but watch your angles, don't be tempted to dig the blade in just skim it all off.
I've just began working on boat resto #31. How I go about removing that wood within the surrounding lip, is to drill a series of holes into the lip at random all around, keeping within 1/2 inch from the outer edge. Then take to it with a very sharp chisel and hammer.
Works for me, and less risk of injury.
Looking forward to seeing the finished new rebuilt transom 👌🍻
Happy to see a whaler finally made it into a video. I had to chuckle when you said "old whaler" not quite as old as mine from the 50s. The kid in some of those "saw in half videos" was the cofounder's son and a good friend of the family. Thanks
Very cool ;-)!
Love to see you saving an old boat! Inspiring me to do my grandfathers boat 1967 Aerocraft.
I love this! Simply love that you share your knowledge with other people. It’s like having a great dad who wants to hand down his knowledge to his children so they can take over when he retires. So thanks dad!
Jakob Nordin p
Welcome back Andy this is why I started watching your channel. You have a wealth of knowledge which is great to see you share with us.
Regards Bob
Dude you just made my friggin day!! I have a boat that needs all the wood replaced and I have been putting it off for 3 years now because of the dust that using a cutoff wheel makes when cutting glass. That tool looks like it works really well. I did a boat about 10 years ago and I was itchy for 3 days! thanks I love you man..
Very well done. Your spokesperson at the end did a great, great job! GOD bless. JC
There are a lot of boats around here that go to the boneyard because of soggy transoms. Can’t wait to see how you do this one! Thanks for sharing with us! I’ve learned a lot from you!
I just found your PDF guide and will be purchasing it. You should make your own book and provide links to videos that go side by side like someone mentioned in the comment. Great work and that grinder blade was funny lol you're the boat ninja
Dear Andy, thank you for your calm demeanor and agility in conveying to a layperson as I, how to make repairs that seem like magic. Your educational videos on fiberglassing are superb. I feel secure in doing this new skill from viewing and reviewing those videos. Now I too have a transom that has failed. Ouch. Will follow your lead here. Note: Milwaukee makes a 12 volt chainsaw cutting tool! Similar to a saws all, but uses a chain and needs oil to keep it moving. I have found it a safer alternative to the angle grinder as it spins a lot slower but chews up the wood pretty fast. Blessings to you a lot, Z
I'd be scared shitless if I had to do that to my boat. Good work man!
Keep them coming Andy! Yourself and saillife inspired me to take on a 50yr old 24ft sailboat in need of a full refit
Welcome back Andy.
I can’t get enough of yr videos, pls make them longer. 👍
wow thank you for showing us that, I did the same thing you just did and my friends said I was crazy but it turned out better and stronger. I am a carpenter craftsmen , and it is nice to see some one like yourself a master in your field doing something I did, thanks I'm looking forward to your next steps in your proses in finishing it.
You don't want to over stiffen the transom mate it will be brittle and cracks will appear after a few seasons. The boat won't flex properly wither and if you tow the boat with the motor on you run the risk of large cracks if you go over too many large potholes. Never ever overly stiffen any area of a GRP boat and if you need to reinforce transoms for larger motors then try to keep it all the same guage/ thickness but go with better epoxy and maybe biaxial but if you do go biaxial matting do not go any thicker than the original GRP. People don't realise the wood is only there as a filler or spine it's the epoxy that's giving the transom it's actual strength and the more you get it flexing with the rest of the hull the better it will be and the bigger heavier motor it will cope with.
Wonderful! And quite timely. I’m in the process of rebuilding the transom on an old as hell Carolina skiff. I completely gutted the transom interior, glassed/ epoxied in all penetrations... glassed in a large exterior buttress ( sandwiching 1808 between two pieces of CSM... about a foot and a half wide on the center line. All of which looks great. But confidence dipped considerably when I got to laying in the lumber.
In the sculpture world, we call the chainsaw disk the widowmaker. It is a must for ice carving and log carving. Well done and great use of it!!!
Just replacing one my self. Great timing, hope to see the rest soon. Thanks mate.
Awesome video. I love my oscillating tool. Used it extensively on my boat project. Thanks for all your great videos!
These videos are the BEST!!! SOOOO helpful in solving my issues on the boat I am restoring....Thank you.
Cool project. Watching your videos inspired me to redo an old Skeeter... I am currently having a sale on soggy cornbread (soaked foam for those who don't get the j/k)...lol. Thanks for the informative videos. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for the video. Although that transom was compromised, it was still pretty solid and capable of holding a motor.
I bought one of those fien cutter 15 years ago and the first time I used it I cut the hole deck out of my 31 Bertram love that tool
You are an amazing glass guy. That sheriff’s boat is in good hands!
Wow, good timing! I have supplies ordered and on the way to redo the transom on my 25 whaler revenge. It's missing that well you didn't want to cut into, and also the top of the transom had been cut off. I've learned tons from your videos and as this is my first glass project, I'll finally be able to put that learning to practice. Thank you!
Andy! Fantastic job. I'm doing the same right now on an old Cobia. Looking forward to the next video! Thanks for these!
Those chainsaw disks are great, wood carvers have been using them for years. Lancelot is a very good brand, they even have replaceable chains.
Chainsaw disc for my Grinder... right into my Amazon cart! Ya learn something new everyday (except what I actually will need that tool for, but who cares! Take my money! More Power!)
Great video thanks
I am looking forward to the rest of this series. Still having nightmares from the transom replacement i did last year.
When I bought my boat it has the same problem and was so bad the glass was tearing around the motor plates, thanks again for the help on it
Thanks and looking forward to the follow up videos. Best to you and yours.
Really special stuff this Andy ! I keenly await every instalment and just cannot get enough ! I have completed a couple project boats myself now and owe a great deal of those successes to YOU my friend !
Stay safe and God bless my friend
Jason in Aussie Land
Smart 2x4 move 👌
good to see you back mate, great tip I do alot of fibreglassing, and I have one of those oscillating tools never thought to use it that will make the world of difference to the mess in the shop, thanks for the tip
We rebuild transom by removing inside shell and playwood and keeping outside fiberglass skin this way you can start laminating your new transom from inside of hull
I have to do the same on a 1962 Whitehouse. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for all you do. Looking forward to the next video.
I used a 14 'electric chain saw from Harbor Freight. it was cheaper than the chainsaw wheel. You also should look into coosa board for transom repairs.
I just had to scrap my 1988 Cruisers Inc because the transom and starboard engine stringers had rotted. If I had the space I would have repaired it myself but paying someone to work on it was going to cost more than the boat was worth. Good Video.
Thanks for the video Andy, look forward to watching this project to the end. Have a great evening!
Great video Andy! It's cool to see you doing some transom work on the channel. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of this project.
Brilliant video Andy
Glad to see you back Andy!
Since you know where the holes are in the transom, could you predrill larger holes in the replacement plywood core and fill them with a resin/epoxy & glass mix before installing the plywood? Then when the transom is rebuilt and the holes are re-drilled they will be through solid laminate, and not have any exposed plywood core material. I was thinking that doing something like that should help keep the replacement plywood core from getting waterlogged in the future.
GREAT idea!!!!; now that you mention it, if it was mine i would do that for sure if re-using the same motors; (why no more hits!)
Great video! You make ot look so easy.
Brother you are amazing,I have a 42 foot trimaran that need some God,I wish I could get your opinion on some of the stuff I have to do on it. Maybe just by looking at your videos I can figure some of it out. You do awesome work man keep on going.
Love your description of the tool you bought-outlawed in some states.....lol
take a skilsaw and set depth to cut only the wood and make verticle cuts 6" apart in the rotten wood and it will come out lots easier and less chance of stress cracking the inner panel, I always try to replace transom material from inside to keep from glassing on outside, but you have a tough one there, good video thanx
You get to use the best tools. I know people who would have just used a chain saw, but they are crazy.
I use the same wheel for redoing Transoms
Great Video, again.. looking forward to the rest of this project.. cheers!
On this topic at some time in the future I plan on redoing the transom on my 25ft Grady White. I want to convert from the drop down style for outboards to a full transom with an engine extension and swim platform . I plan on adding at least 2 layers of glass to the outside as a final step for added protection. So my question is if I re glass the whole transom what is the best way to retain / protect the Stamped Hull numbers without filling them in? maybe a short Video on this kinda subject would be great. Thanks and love your videos
I need to do this on the 1959 Cutter Jet Deville I just bought this past Sunday.
Great job love your work
Fantastic as always, Please keep them coming!
Yeah awesome wrk brother awesome wrk need to watch and see the finish👍 right on!!!
Literally going to be following along with this doing my own! Nightmare job 😵 love the vids!
If boat pulls to either side on a plane, there might be some delamination blisters protruding out on either side of the keel. Ask me how I know... That bottom paint will tend to hide evil like that plus access will be a pain unless you can hang boat from davits to inspect down there. Best way to size up what you're dealing with as far as water intrusion is to find out what a dry hull's spec weight is from Edgewater Boston Whaler factory & then drive to dump & weigh that boat (trailer weight subtracted of course) & subtract OEM spec weight for that model from project boat weight. The remainder shuld be water weight soaked into hull foam. Nice project, looking forward to it's progression to completion.
Love your videos, but they always end with me wanting more. I can't wait to see how the transom turns out. Also, I knew a few guys from the EAA who built their own fiberglass kitplanes and they wouldn't use anything else but a Fein Multimaster.
When replacing transom wood on a glass boat, how is the join to the sides of the boat strengthened, ie what is stopping the boat splitting open widthways and letting the transom fall right out backwards?
Who on earth dislikes a Boatworks Today video?
Crazy people. They hate everything.
Other "professional" boat repair companies who hire unskilled labor to do shoddy work at a premium price to unsuspecting but wealthy boat owners who don't know any better. Anyone who works solo, is a good craftsman that does quality work at a fair price, and God forbid shares any trade knowledge on RUclips, is the enemy!
people who don't like boats
Given who the boat belongs to, there could be a few of the "$#%^ the police" crowd in addition to the usual malcontents.
Idiots.
One more questions: How do you treat exterior surface repair works regarding UV resistance. I read that some types of Epoxy is not UV resident, should Epoxy always be covered by Gelcoat which is based on polyester?
I like the headlight on this boat
I did this on a 1957 Stewart warner speed queen. Such a pain
Great video, first time I’ve seen your channel, I have a 90 22’ whaler.
Ever try an air chisel to remove that last bit at bottom? I have found it to help in past
He im seeing this three years later. And I just got done doing my transom. You kill it but I found a mini 10 inch chainsaw I used to remove the hard to reach wood u should check it out.
$50.00 WalMart Electric Chainsaw New and Chain Oil never added took ALL Wood Outta my KingFisher 16' boat Transom Without a Scratch (to Me).. I Was Very Careful, and it Worked Great And FAST !!
Your right about that Chain Saw Blade for gods sake don't let Jason from all those Friday The Thirteen movies borrow that sucker...eh, Keep up the good work...Txs...
ooohhh. cool chainsaw blade! I've put a Diablo 10" on my DeWalt and made several cuts with it. that's scary. you don't do anything until the blade stops spinning.
"Fein job" get it, HAHAHHAHHAH-- Seriously, some fantastic work !!! Keep it up
In allum we use a saw blade made for air grinder its way safer as u can dog it out. Run light air. I used electric and got lucky
Awesome stuff as usual Andy!
Love this channel! Is this video part of a series? I searched "Transom Replacement" on your main page, but didn't find any others with a similar title. Thanks!
This id gonna be great fun!
I love the cliffhanger.... not joking
At the 7:51 mark I see evidence of drywood termites in the wood. Hope this was dealt with. I had to do a tent fumigation once on a while it was in the water too.
You should try a masonry wheel for your cutting I use it on everything including metal
Where's the next video? We need more! Love the chanel.
thanks
Andy, I am about to do this same job on a 209 grady white. I have to access the transom from the outside similar to this build. My question and worry is the strength of the bond between the face of the old transom and the new skin I will have to make. I am afraid the bond will delaminate and basically drop the motor and new transom right off. Can you help me out with ideas and tips? Thanks!
I am definitely getting me a chainsaw cutter, that thing is awesome
Amazing job!! Congrats,!!👍
I see you've found the Death Wheel(tm). A favorite of totem carver's everywhere!
I just bought my first boat and it’s fiberglass. I know that the transom will have to be rebuilt but also the floor.
Hi there, quick question: you mention using new plywood to replace the soaked one. Isn’t it better to use some other material for it? That will not take water anymore. Take care and good luck 👍🏻
Have you ever done a cut out for a step thru access?
What's your thought on the liquid fix instead of wood?
Love your shows. Ive got a well craft 20v. The transom is curved😳 how do you tapper the core to fit the curve in the transom? Thanks
my case, I removed the plywood, but the finger behind it is rotten.. and I wanted to extend the stern 20 cm back. So my boat is completely open behind.. now I am thinking about how to rebuild it all from scratch so that I have something for the plywood to bond to. I will use two layers of 15-cm plywood after rebuilding the hull and the figer behind the tramson . I would much appreciate ideas here.
Hey, did you let it dry in different stages? 1. Plywood layers 2. Before fibreglassing. Thanks! Just wondering if its possible to do whole thing in the same day!
Andy, if there is any water in the core of a deck due to stanchion or chainplate leaks, do I have to always, in every instance, cut into the deck and remove all the impacted core? I did that on a test section, per your tutorials and it was do-able, but a lot of work. What are your thoughts in Injectadeck - the product that claims to use the moisture to chemically seal their compound that is injected into holes on the deck? Thanks - this is a great channel!
Any videos on SMC hull repair?
Andy, I'm looking for some advice and I don't think I can find a better more professional resource than you. I know you're very busy, but I would really appreciate some ideas!I bought a 1970 32' wood boat that I want to refurbish. Here is the first of two questions. On the inside of the house which apprears to be built of plywood and painted over. The walls have been painted multiple times over the years and they have plenty of gouges, empty screw holes and mostly are just uneven. A friend told me to get some 80 grit and sand them as smooth as possible and then skim coat the walls with Bondo. He said that the Bondo was easy to sand and once sealed in by paint I wouldn't have any problems with it as long as I didn't go thick. He said I should just use it to smooth and make the surface uniform. Then primer and paint! What would you do?My second question is quite similar. The outside of the house apprears to be painted with a non-skid type of paint. It also looks similar to older houses that had sand added to ceiling paint to hide problems. I would like to get it smooth as well. I was thinking about fiberglassing over the whole house, fairing and painting it. Again, how would you proceed?Thanks for any advice you can offer. And do you have any videos that would relate to this type of work? My email address is sailingwithbill@msn.com Thanks again! Bill S.